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Yes it should, when sold by a Skoda dealer, have everything up to date. Of course, they know the 3 year, then 2 year brake fluid change requirement is bull crap unless you happen bring it to them for a service…. If they are arguing the toss about a £60 brake fluid change I’d walk away, it doesn’t bode well for their attitude if there’s a problem after you’ve bought it. There’s no shortage of used Octavias out there.

The OP's photo almost certainly shows an oil pattern consistent only with not wiping and reinserting, so there's nothing laugh-worthy about @wooly4228's post.

A couple of pics from my new arrival last Friday...

ALL stop/start systems require either an EFB or an AGM battery....Bosch/Varta are the best & actually the same company.... Varta who make some of the batteries for VAG confirmed that standard battery case sizes are used to make the VAG factory batteries, but that the Ah capacities are “special” to VAG for those case sizes. Basically, VAG are confusing us to make sure we end up buying a direct replacement battery from them when in fact a standard battery which is available from any auto parts supplier will fit & do the job!! You also need to code the BCM.... ALL info on battery types & coding in my thread on this other forum:- How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum E.F.B. (Enhanced Flooded Battery):- These usually have two times (x2) the cycle starts compared to a standard battery. They are still a standard lead acid battery (hybrid version), so cannot be held upside down & will leak if the case is broken. Basically, the car industry wanted a cheaper version of the AGM battery for the Stop-Start engine technology. EFB is the result! A.G.M. (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries:- These were fitted to the early Stop/Start (BlueMotion) systems, & usually have three times (x3) the cycle starts compared to a standard lead acid battery. In these the liquids have been absorbed by a framework of glass fibre mats. There is no liquid to move around, so they can be held upside down, & are leakproof if the case is broken! These are the safest in a crash which is why they have been used in racing/rallying for years! Unfortunately, they can be more prone to heat damage (see below on heat shield) than the other types of battery, & they are more expensive! These batteries require specific battery chargers/conditions that will work with AGM batteries. VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

Back up and running... Massive thanks to @Tellfor all your help.

I have an ID.4 rather than an Enyaq but they are the same car underneath. I'm happy with mine and has lived up to expectations. As long as you have the latest software update installed if buying used. You will probably find an MEB based car thirsty after an E-Niro, over 4 miles per kWh is the exception rather than the rule.

Corrosion and seizing are problems on EV friction brakes due to getting a lot less use because regen takes care of most of braking. EV service specialists know that brakes need a 'lubrication service' as part of regular servicing to keep them tip-top whereas car manufacturers have not twigged on to differences between EV and ICE cars in how it operates. Brakes are one example, 12V battery charging problems is another. (VW / Skoda cured a 12V battery flat problem by switching to another battery chemistry and changing the charging algorithm. Software version 2.4 had the s/w update and a new battery as part of a recall that affected ID cars and Enyaq).

The car arrived on Friday, so here are my initial thoughts after only a few miles behind the wheel: 1. Very comfortable and refined. Admittedly I'm coming from a Kia Proceed GT which had a lot of road and engine noise, but the vRS feels miles ahead in terms of comfort. I can see it being a great long-distance cruiser which will come in handy for some long trips with work in the next couple of months. 2. Incredibly comfortable seats. Much softer and yet more supportive than my previous car (which was its real weak point). 3. Dealers should do better with car prep. Ok it's only a lease car which was registered on the last day of November so may well have been left sitting outside for a while, but the window trims have green growth on them and the windows are still covered in marks presumably from the suckers that hold the glass during production. Front and rear windows need a proper clean inside. 4. Fake noise is actually not bad. The Kia was ridiculously loud - to the point of being bloody annoying as it was just a loud 4-pot so not even 'nice'. The vRS fake sound isn't anywhere near as intrusive and is actually quite pleasant. Don't get me wrong though, I'd prefer more real exhaust noise than fakery any day! 5. Infotainment has been fine so far. Still getting used to it - for example making my way around which of mine or my wife's phone should run car play when we're both in the car. For some reason the car is defaulting to her phone!

Oh God! I was out a few days and see where the events have led us! I even meant to notify you guys that i won't reply too fast, I have a lot on my plate and when i can get away from the computer I try really hard not to turn it on. (Even though i wanted to check on the Skoda forum) Let me go in points trying to keep some timing in answering the posts: - compression test was done years ago when i got the car. I seem to have lost the photos of that but i thought they were all even. (can't recall the number though) book is again in the workshop (far away) i do not know the compression values. I think 145psi for a cold engine form the 80-ies with 260k on it is OK...? NR4 stands out and i do not know why. Baffles me! - spark plugs: Yeah, Ricardo, some truth in that... my impression was when i just pulled Nr4 out that it was wet, but probably from the petrol of it not igniting properly. I focused a lot more on the black/white coloring. Maybe I should have mentioned it, I think i decided at the moment there and then that it was just unburnt fuel. (I had bikes in the past, one was consuming oil, the JAwas were ever going out of ignition timing, so have seen a fair share of plugs) Why i did not say so in post nr1...? Mea Culpa! With the compression suspiciously higher in that cylinder I switched to my oil theory. I mean come on, we all been there, right? Hoping for something simpler than an engine rebuild! - nta16, I'm hoping for vacuum leaks or whatnot, as that is easier to fix (if not to find) than anything else. More on that later! - After that the threadwar started, and i'm very sorry for that chaps. Yes, I'm really grateful for getting answers from a Skoda forum on my Saab. I got loads of good knowhow for the Felicia here, and I prefer to ask people I feel that I know. (Of course not, but hey!) I could have gone to a Saab forum but I really think this engine is simple as a brick, so I was not expecting some magical issue with discolouring plugs. Etc. -nta16, why do you think I'm not answering or taking your advise? If that's the impression, sorry Man, not intentioned. I have many projects, renovating a house, building a Suzuki Savage for a trip that's 3 weeks away and checking the bloody war news daily to know when to grab the backpack and head for the border. Nah, you guys are much faster than I anticipated, and I feel bad about not following and checking every sane idea that comes up. - J.R. : you can skim this through. The bottom few lines will be more relevant. (I do that too If I'm in a hurry... And That would support Ricardo's point of being concise and on the point, so that not to waste time, but then, I'm on nta16s opinion a bit, as this is not professional diagnostic workshop, but more like a gathering of likeminded people. At least I'd like to think so... so yeah, lengthy novels as I like to express myself that way, that annoys Ricardo a bit and you skim through. Relax! It's a joke! ) New developments as of yesterday and my thoughts: - Got new plugs (NGK6BE as per manual) and before i installed them, I adjusted the gaps... and next to the gap spcs there were all kinds of interesting data for the ignition system so I also measured the resistance of the leads and measured the coil. I found that data in the workshop manual and thought why not. And turns out, that the book says much, much less resistance for leads than what I have. My NGK leads were specifically bought for this car, but instead of 3-3.2k per lead I have 7-6k, so double. The Lead from coil to distributor is 4k in my case, should be 1k according to Haynes. - Checked coil as well, I mean, who knows who fixed this car before, right? Secondary winding should be 24-35k and I have much less... bud damn, I forgot the number... 4k??? - Nevertheless Started the car up. (wanted to test if EGR removal and blanking off does anything) And it did, Fired up on all 4 cylinders! Now: - It's snow here, the Saab has no wheels (rims are getting painted) and it has no technical test. So a testride and plug color check is a no-go at the present moment. - Ricardo! You mentioned the leak test, and I meant to write to you. I have not done that, can you point to a decent write up of that? Any special tool needed? - Now that the engine is running I'll do a proper compression test and will post the results. I'll try to get proper leads and check into that coil resistance. As I wrote a bit before, be patient, I have some other fish to fry, this is a hobby car, so if i'm not coming back to you immediately or not do all that's advised, take it easy. Thanks a zillion for the help, much appreciated.

Simply clever if Governments and councils make the use of public owned land straight forward and planning has no delays.

280 is better.....

These two, as they are linked to engine systems will stay on with only ignition on till the engine is started.

Respect to Marilyn Carr from Dundee. Born in 1941 without arms and not because of thalidomide. She lived life to the full using her feet and was a typist, drove a standard Mini using her feet before years later she had adaptions on vehicles. She married a pilot and also flew planes. She was a supporter of Douglas Bader and his and other charities. BLESMA among them. Helping people get adaptions. But then many drive with disabilities, and some systems on cars when built can be set to assist. Steering assistance or brake assistance increased or decreased being pretty usual. Years back it was maybe Mechanical pedal and steering adaptions or the lights / stalks where now it can be electrical / software that makes the difference.

I promised to drive my wife this morning. Gee, it was sub-zero. I by-passed her little frozen VW. Fired up my Bear and switched on all the HOT buttons. Ready to go in a few minutes. No de-icer needed. I love it.

@plamen_333No, it doesn't work

Found it out guys, was the flexor knocking against the exhaust/heat shield under load. Exhaust wasn’t blown so garage fixed it with cable ties and tightened it

3 minutes running is not 1.0tsi at normal operating temperature. The oil temp indicator will not be showing 50*oC let alone over 80 to 90 *oC.

So finally got this done having had to wait for the replacement 12mm logo to be delivered ( (3T0837891A). Successfully got the old key apart and transplanted the electronics. All good until trying to put the existing blade into the new key. Sadly the hole which forms part of the tang is slightly smaller on the new key than the original. This left two choices. 1. Remove the pin from each key which holds the 'cut' part in place or 2. get a new key cut from the existing one. I tried option 1 but after 25 minutes and no progress i abandoned that approach. The issue with moving the blades (As per the video) is the potential it may not even fit and may require further 'fettling'. So I went for option 2 and found a local locksmith (don't bother with the chains they won't even look at it unless you buy the whole thing from them for a starting price of £50 upwards).. they cut me a replacement blade for £20. So now I have a brand new key effectively... worth the effort i think as the keys on the old one were starting to soften and degrade from use. This should give a few decent years of service now. Total cost was around £8 for the shell, £20 for the new blade to be cut and £10 for the logo on the back (genuine part which came via this ebay auction - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203473104576). Photos of before (vertical) and after (horizontal). cheers.

ok so after going mad I got the PDF manual from the SKODA site. Also I was wrong, it is the usb that shuts down after contact not the cigarette ligthter. So it seem that my car is like hat Brrezy_Pete said, my 40 fuse can be it 2 positions and it is actually in the up position. I will open my fuse box later and check all of this.

@plamen_333 Hello. "The lights in the mirror come on when reversing". For that, he needs to have a 360° camera.

Because due to regen braking, the rear brakes are barely used. The front disks don't get a lot of use either, except when coming to rest. Switching to drums makes the rear brakes practically 'sealed for life' and need no interventions in normal servicing. Drum brakes are also better at being parking brakes too. Take a look at this video by Tesla Bjorn of an ID.3 drum brake being inspected after 2 years and 60k kms, shows it to be a good decision. By contrast, Tesla rear disk brakes have well known corrosion and seizing problems. https://youtu.be/r1XvoTIyWzE?feature=shared

Drum brakes are thought to be a good idea for EVs because they use so much regenerative braking. Discs get oxidization on them due to lack of use?

The 2019 Tiguan was a 1.5TSi DSG Match, I think the only options were metallic and power boot (although they would have added a grand to the list price). Don't know what list would have been, but there was the DtD discount and a hefty deposit contribution at the time. In 4 yrs it'd only done 12K miles, and people do seem keen on low mileage in the UK so that would have helped the value it sold for. I bought the late 2015 (so last of the mk1's) Tiguan we had through CarWow for £24K and that would have listed at £30K with its options inc DSG & 4Motion. DtD were cheaper, but wouldn't tell me who the dealer was and wanted me to wait factory lead-time. As it was, we got the car in 8 days.

As the manual states. Take out dip stick wipe off oil, reinsert dip stick, remove and it should show correct oil level. Depending on where the oil shows will tell you either too low or too high, it should be in-between

There is no noise cancelling technology in the Superb. Simply not implemented. you also don't have a chance to use it to eliminate road noise as this kind of noise is not predictable. @MartiniBIn my opinion the issue is not the BT codec but the Canton amplifier. It has some compression/noise filter @WacholekHow are you planning to compensate the level of the 4 Ohm bass speakers which are then significantly louder than the 8 ohm OEM? Also, how do you achieve the sub going deeper than 30Hz if there is a high pass filter in the sub signal? @brettikivi Canton sounds great when you adjust the focus to the driver and put the fader to the front. all other settings are a more or less faulty compromise. @numskull you always put comments like this in the audio threads. You just don't have any clue how a good made car can sound.

Dealers are making a lot of money at the moment from people who are forced, or are daft enough, to change their car. I commented in another recent thread about "cancelling" our new Karoq order - what happened was we changed wife's old Diesel Tiguan for a nearly-new Karoq in the summer, paying, what I knew to be, a high price. At the same the dealer put an order for a new one so as to grab the hefty PCP incentive that was available back then. Lead-time was 9mths. Cost to change was estimated at £6K. They called just before Xmas as car was on its way (so months early) and cost to change is now £13K. 😕 (and that includes a couple of £K PCP contribution). They indicated £18K for our Karoq - yet have a higher mileage, but othewrise identical, Karoq on the forecourt at £25,495 and Autotrader indicates that's a "fair" price. And you mention EVs - Skoda dealers are lucky that they don't have to contend with many EVs, they only have Enyaq. I've been told loads are being shifted on Motability, (although I can't say I'm seeing many around) but if it's true then the market will be swamped with them in 3yrs time - big risk if buying with your own money.

First post for me, similar to yourself here. I've owned my SE L for almost a month now. Not driven entirely on electric range much, but on hybrid only, short journeys kill the indicated range. I've fared okay on longer journeys. My longest trip so far was 110 miles out to Ormskirk and back. Full charge indcated 34 miles, that was pretty much all gone when the trip was done and I averaged just under 80mpg. That was mostly A roads and motorway., but some town driving. I put it into hybrid mode and let the car decide how to optimise.

To help others & thanks to @AshPearson for linking back to this thread, I've attached my old photo & comments of the ABS unit:- The ABS splits into two components both can purchased new separately! One is the hydraulic block which is what the fluid is in & is silver in colour. The black plastic box is the electronics & the main PCB in this fails. I had this happen to me, & sent the unit off to be remanufactured/repaired, but the PCB had components on it which were FUBAR. So a whole new unit was ordered, I could have just got the electronic box & fitted it to the main block. There are only six small TX-star screws which connect the two units together, but the new (or reused second hand) electronic unit will need VCDS to recode it to your car, so you need to save the coding from the old unit.

@Bap33 the lighting under the mirror.

just in case, they ask for device number: Mib2 3Q0 035 824 C Golf 2018 Mib3 3G5 035 820 Q Tiguan 2023 Mib? 10A 035 816 R ID.4 2023

@enisz Did you check if the mod was successful using your wipers, while your car was idling or did you try while driving? Because, I think tear drops wiping doesn't work when the car is stopped and idling, only working while driving. If I remember well, I had been fooled by this important ´detail’ and thought my mod was unsuccesful.

There's no decision! 272, that's it! 😂

Yes, quite incredible. And add to that we wanted a small car just to run around town in so bought a little Toyota hybrid which mirrored the Karoq in price - listed at £30k and I ended up paying £25600 after discount ( was supposed to be £25k but there was a £600 hidden cost ). £30k for that car was IMO ridiculous but even more ridiculous, used examples were being advertised in the mid 30's because it was difficult to get a new one. The market was bonkers. Anyway, collected it in August so it cost me all of £3100 to change. Fast forward to today. Toyota have reduced their PCP incentive from £1800 to £600 ( a long sotry but this makes settling a Toyota financial services PCP early, completely pointless ), and there's not as much of a discount on the car. The best deal I can see that car for now is £27k, so with the Karoq being worth £12825, the changeover today would be £14175 😲 It's unbe-bloody-levable.... £14175 to change over today and it cost £3100 to change over just 5 months ago ! My Kodiaq was 3yr old in November and I had a quick look around to see if it was worth changing. I couldn't find anything suitable - I'm glad I didn't because the prices being asked for new / delivery miles cars was crazy. The Kodiaq has now come back to to 'normal' prices to now. There would be absolutley zero chance of me changing that car now, or at least not unless I needed to. I'm sure there are lots and lots of people that have been caught out buying when prices were inflated. And with new cars going up in price, depreciation is going to be eyewatering. Everyone is in a different position and for me I've never seen the benefit of PCP, but I'll say one thing for it - at least you know how much is going out each month and the min the car will be worth at the end of term.

Good luck with the gunk can and compressor. Please update us when you try it out on a dark night. I’m a Spare Wheel Man myself 🙂

No, I think that's just the lights self-testing. Relax.

That would be a better option and will help the user efficiently.

Thanks for raising. ill get them added later. Life would be easier for everyone if the models were the same name Ie the Slavia is based on the scala. So a sub forum might be under its manufactured parent. scala > slavia. Etc.

In TPIs you will find how much time (time units) fixing should take. Based on this number Skoda compensates the work of workshops. Now imagine how much money they save when they don't force updates and there are many people like me, who had issue only once and couldn't get bothered. I'm not a fan of such approach when it is something concerning bigger issues, like we all had with faulty infotainment software or comms modules, and I'd rather make it illegal for them to keep fixes for themselves unless car owner complains. But I'm sure they'll find the way how to make workshop a scapegoat and not bear any responsibility as a brand. In the end, they issue service campaigns to fix stuff, including software, and dealers don't bother contacting car owners and booking appointments for that either.

It was fitted by Citygate and as I said never missed a beat. Make of that what you will

This is also possibly not helpful as my Karoq version is different from yours (2021 with MIB3 infotainment and parking sensors). I had a rear camera retrofitted using VW Retrofit - they checked my VIN first to make sure they could do it. I'd be more inclined to believe a store that asks for the VIN first before selling you a camera. The different answers might be the difference between original equipment and a third party camera (I got a Skoda genuine camera). If you find someone that says it's possible it might be safer to get it fitted rather than buying the parts and fitting it yourself - you're less likely to end up with parts that don't work in your car.

I have always been a BMW driver. That was until the latest BMW 5 series. I purchased the 2021 530i touring with only 800 miles on the clock, and 3 months old. After a few months without fault, the rear hatch would open on its own when parked up. I took it to my local BMW dealer who after having the car for two weeks stated that they could not fix the problem. After a shouting match in their showroom making sure that all around knew that the dealer could not fix my car after 2 weeks and this left me with a car in which the rear hatch would open at will allowing thieves and the weather to have a great time. However i had the right to return the car as unfit for purpose and that’s what I did. I had to contact BMW UK to get the dealer to hand my money back however. Then I moved to Honda, but their new civic has a major steering fault I find out to my cost. So that had to go. Now I am trying Škoda, which I hope will be a safe bet. I think that manufacturers are being forced to make their cars meet silly unrealistic emissions targets along with trying to make the cars cheaper to manufacture which is causing most of the problems. Even the copper wiring in todays car is not true copper but a cheap alloy which breaks down over time leading to lots of electrical problems for owners. Best to keep things simple to my mind.

You have put more charge into the battery. As long as the battery holds the charge and/or you are not depleting the battery storage to how it was previously the start/stop should work (when it should) and you'll not get that and possibly other warnings. Running the battery down low does it no favours, doing it too much and/or too often will weaken it and make it difficult to recover it as much as if you didn't. Think of preventative charging or a battery maintainer or disconnecting the battery if the car isn't going to be used for weeks on end, that will extend the use and life of your existing battery and its replacement. Don't wait for warning lights or messages to come on, be proactive rather than reactive. Or buy a new battery and have to do less, until the cycle begins again. Good luck.

Wise decision I reckon. Just being honest with you. I wouldn't want to send you a poorly functioning doorstop. I'm very annoyed with Skoda for selling me (and many others) a brand new £20,000 car with a cheap touch screen that has failed so quickly. Take care. Happy Christmas. Keith.

You don't have to vacuum fill, however it makes it so much easier! Without it, you'll be chasing air out the system for a while, but might get lucky... All depends if you don't mind spending the time doing that! There are circuit bleed options on VCDS however that can help move any trapped air along.

The radiator was effectively emptied when I did my job as both hoses have to be removed. But there is a risk of an airlock for sure when refilling, which is why I aimed to fill up as much as possible directly before connecting top hose. If you do diy - you will need one or two radiator hose picks. I could not have done the job without them. The spring clamps mould edit. fuse the rubber hose onto the connectors and your very likely to break plastic unions trying to get the hose off without them.

Lane assist is standard on all new cars, so you will not escape it. Furthermore, the lane assist in mine has never even remotely caused me to hit other cars/kerbs/trees/lampposts, so when I read this and other threads regarding lane assist I cannot relate. Mine (and I’m pretty sure everyone’s else’s) is a gentle vibration/nudge and that’s it. Weird to read that people have escaped near death situations because of lane assist😂 Anyway, I agree with the infotainment system, and sometimes the engine when it’s cold, but everything else about my MC I love. Good luck with the Puma, although prepare yourself for one or two Ford related glitches/faults/quirks because you will get them👍

Yes guess they are different animals, but I'm sure someone who has a car the same as me is reading this post with interest and may find any info helpful.

From Northumberland to London, 295 miles, me and the other half plus a bootful of luggage, max speed 70 (adaptive cruise), average speed 57, 49.1 mpg. Superbly comfortable and quiet, Apple CarPlay navigation was faultless and even alerted me to police speed vans on motorway bridges, effortless with the 1.5’s power and the DSG. What a great car.

I have the SE L which, I believe, has a different Infotainment system the SE?. I do have the occasional issue with it dropping connection to the phone but I just reset it by holding down the power button and, after it resets, its fine. I do agree the Lane keeping assist is a nuisance, but I wouldn't ever describe it as "dangerous". It gives a gentle nudge back to the centre of the lane which is easily overpowered. I always turn it off when I go above 40 so its not a real issue. I have become used to turning it off. Overall I love the Kamiq its a very well put together and comfortable car to drive in my opinion.

Almost threw you into a hedge and having to fight the steering wheel? Really? On the rare occasion that I forget to turn lane assist off it gives me a gentle bit of resistance on the steering wheel, I certainly never have to “fight the steering wheel” and it’s never even come close to “throwing me into a hedge”. Its a slight annoyance I’ll agree, but not in a million years would I describe it as dangerous🤔