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MOT for this one tomorrow. I know it's going to fail (handbrake, exhaust), but it's a matter of whatever else is found. Follow this space, or something.

So put all seasons on each wheel. If it's not clear yet, I'm not a fan of mixed tyres. If you can afford to have a pair of wheels/tyres for the colder months you can probably afford the full set.

Mine is a company car. The BIK is really good on the Octavia. If I was buying one I would go for a standard petrol with everything on for the same price 😅

Wolfsburg. The Volkswagen Group increased its deliveries in 2023 by 12 percent to 9.24 million vehicles. All regions contributed to this growth, with Europe (+19.7 percent) and North America (+17.9 percent) being the main drivers. China, the Group's largest single market, grew by 1.6 percent despite a challenging market environment. The Volkswagen Group expanded its market share in Europe as well as North and South America and thus also increased slightly worldwide. Almost all brands recorded growth, in some cases substantial. SEAT/CUPRA achieved the highest increase in the passenger car segment with a rise of 34.6 percent, while MAN led the way in the truck segment with an increase of 37.1 percent. At the same time, the Volkswagen Group successfully continued its transformation and delivered 771,100 fully electric vehicles. This corresponds to an increase of 34.7 percent compared to the previous year. The share of all-electric vehicles in deliveries rose to 8.3 percent compared to 6.9 percent in 2022. https://www.volkswagen-group.com/en/press-releases/volkswagen-group-posts-solid-growth-in-deliveries-in-2023-and-strong-increase-in-all-electric-vehicles-18057 Toyota enjoyed a second successive year of record-breaking new vehicle sales in 2023. End-of-year results show group sales – Toyota and Lexus passenger cars and light commercial vehicles combined – reached a new high of 145,142 units, securing a 6.47 per cent market share. Toyota passenger cars commanded a new record share of the retail market, at 7.19 per cent with 62,020 sales, while business and fleet car sales totalled 47,395 units, giving the brand 4.56 per cent of the market. https://media.toyota.co.uk/toyota-sales-surge-to-new-record-in-2023/ The latest data shows that Tesla continues to dominate, but its market share is shrinking as competitors roll out new models. Since January 2022, for example, Tesla's share of the EV market fell from 72% to 54% — and it will likely slide below 50% in the next month or two, says Tom Libby, associate director of industry analysis at S&P Global Mobility. Tesla's Model S sedan, in particular, has been struggling. Registrations for the S plummeted 75% in January 2023, while those of Mercedes-Benz's new EQS sedan quadrupled. Where it stands: Tesla's Model Y and Model 3 hold the largest market share and are still growing, but rival cars are quickly gaining ground. General Motors' Chevrolet Bolt is the most popular non-Tesla EV, with a 10% share — due in part to a $6,000 price cut following a damaging battery recall. Volkswagen's ID.4 and Ford's Mustang Mach-E rounded out the top five EVs registered in January by market share. Reality check: Less than 1% of the 279 million cars and light trucks on American roads are electric. Even in California, the country's leading EV market, they represent just 2.6% of all registered automobiles. It will take a couple of decades for the slow transition from gasoline to electric vehicles to be complete. https://www.axios.com/2023/04/05/tesla-ev-electric-vehicle-adoption

Goldfinch

Well in the end I didn't have a choice. Pleasant and efficient guy from tyresonthedrive (Halfords) wouldn't do the tyre rotation even if I paid as they don't have the time allocated for the job. Didn't see but maybe there was an option somewhere but only at time of booking. So all seasons on the front and 50% worn P7 on the back for now. I may change them over sometime in the spring or summer so I can get the P7's finally worn out and changed for all seasons. By my calculations that would be in about 25,000 miles time. Thursday, son is driving to Man airport over the M62, forecast sleet/snow.

Coming back to the original set of questions: Yes you should notice an improvement in handling and stability with B6 shocks. The only party who can advise if fitting is acceptable on a PCP car is the provider of said PCP. - What I think will happen: the company will ask why you are changing the parts if not worn out. If you say it's not performing correctly they will suggest you get it investigated and replace with OE parts. The imbalance of the car if fitting B6 shocks to just the front will feel bad. If doing it you should do all 4. A front drive car is more affected by changes at the rear for things like handling.

Bilstein B6 shock absorbers tend to be fitted for more controlled and firmer damping. If the OP just wants new front shock absorbers without replacing the rear shock absorbers, I suggest he takes a look at the standard Bilstein B4, KYB, or Sachs options. These will hopefully closely match the standard rear shock absorbers that he already has on the car. If the OP has the 19" wheels on a front wheel drive Karoq, ie. 225/40R19 on 8J rims then changing to smaller diameter rims such as 16" or 17" would make a big difference to ride comfort. As the car is on a PCP contract, he will probably be limited to the standard Skoda tyre and rim choices, ie. 215/60R16 6Jx16 ET43 and 215/55R17 7Jx17 ET45. 17" might provide the best compromise between handling and comfort, but see details of the 215/60R16 fitted to a relatively wide 7J option near the end of this post because 16" rims might turn out to be the best option. For much cheaper rims you could consider 6.5Jx17 ET38 steel rims from the Kodiaq with the 215/55R17 tyre size. However, this is non-standard on the Karoq but the outside edges of the 6.5J ET38 rims would have exactly the same position in the wheelarch as the 7J ET45 rims, so it would take an expert to realise they weren't standard Karoq rims. Perhaps get the much cheaper option and change back to the original wheels when it's time to hand the car back. As a benefit, the slightly narrower 6.5J rims will slightly improve the ride comfort further compared to the 7J rims. Ratikon 7Jx17 ET45 5/112 57.1 alloy rims (215/55R17) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AKaroq%2B%282017%2B%29%3ArimDiameter%3A17%22%3ArimDiameter%3A16%22&text=# 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rim (215/55R17) (from Kodiaq) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750807?search=ALCAR+Rim+(9021) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=639488607098246256&rimCode=ALCAR9021 Wheel trims for 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rims (from Kodiaq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-borneo-17/p/565071457++Z31 One further non-standard 17" option is the non-standard 225/50R17 tyre size fitted to the standard 7Jx17 ET45 rim size. You might choose this option because you like the look of the wider tyre size, and/or it better protects the 7J rim, and/or it's a cheaper tyre size, and/or you can only get the tyre you want in the 225/50R17 tyre size (eg. Vredestein Quatrac 6 comes in 225/50R17, but not 215/55R17). As you can see in the chart below, 225/50R17 has an outside diameter 1.1% smaller than the standard 16" tyre size on the Karoq front wheel drive. Up to 1.5% difference between standard and non-standard tyre sizes is generally considered to be only a small difference. Outside diameter of tyre 215/60R16 664.4mm 225/50R17 656.8mm (1.1% smaller compared to 215/60R16) Some 16" options If you want more comfort than 17" provides, then 16" is the way to go. As well as the standard 215/60R16 6Jx16 ET43 option, there's also non-standard options such as 215/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET43, and 215/60R16 7Jx16 ET45, etc. 215/60R16 fitted to a 7J rim width is going to be a particularly sporty option and really does raise the question of whether you need 17" rims in preference to 16" rims. After all, 16" has a number of advantages over 17". 215/60R16 can be cheaper than 215/55R17. 16" rims can be considerably lighter than 17". For example, the 6J and 6.5J steel rims below weigh less than 8kg each. By comparison, each 6.5Jx17 ET38 steel rim weighs about 3kg to 4kg more. Multiple that by 4 (or 5 including a spare)...and that's a lot of extra weight. Out of the below three rim widths, ie. 6J, 6.5J, 7J, the middle 6.5J could be a good compromise between the two extremes. The Superb MK3 also fits it's standard 215/60R16 tyre size to a 6.5J rim...albeit ET41 (but then it's a different car). The Yeti fitted its 215/60R16 to a surprisingly wide 7J rim. Alcar 6665 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750540 Alcar 9187 6.5Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750834 Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750851 As you can see in the ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation) chart below, a 215/60R16 tyre can be fitted to a rim width between 6.0" and 7.5", with 6.5" in bold because that's the standard rim width for this tyre size. Notice that the 215/55R17 can also be fitted to a rim width between 6.0" and 7.5", but the standard rim width for this tyre size is 7.0". ETRTO approved rim width for passenger car tyres 215/60R16 6.0-6.5-7.5 215/55R17 6.0-7.0-7.5 215/50R18 6.0-7.0-7.5 225/40R19 7.5-8.0-9.0

Are you a gap insurance salesman?

Indoor Door Control Front Right Škoda 6V0837222A2ZZ (skoda-parts.com) That should work - delivered in a few days and an hour to fit. There's an excellent vid on YouTube. Hope that helps.

It's an impossible task for any insurance company to get involved in grouping together different aftermarket shock absorbers, into ones that modify the car and ones that don't modify the car. They could charge more if you didn't fit genuine OE shock absorbers, but that would destroy the aftermarket shock absorbers market...and I expect the insurance ombudsman would overturn such a decision. Most owners have replacement shock absorbers fitted by a garage, rather than doing the job themselves. Most of the time, the owner won't know the make and model of shock absorbers that have been fitted. Even if the owner did know, the information would be meaningless to an insurance company. They wouldn't know how each individual model of shock absorber affects the performance of the car because they don't have such a database. Most owners drive secondhand cars, and wouldn't know the make and model of aftermarket shock absorbers that may have been fitted to their car by a previous owner. If an owner phoned up their insurance company with a list of one hundred possible aftermarket shock absorbers and asked them which ones they could fit to their car that didn't increase their insurance premiums...the insurance company would be absolutely clueless because they don't keep an up to date list of all models of aftermarket shock absorbers...and even if they did have such as list, they wouldn't know if they increased or reduced the risk. Plus, it's a rapidly changing market with model numbers being constantly changed. When there's a car insurance claim, the insurance company doesn't know what shock absorbers are fitted to the car...so there's no data. I haven't seen a single post of someone who has had insurance problems when fitting aftermarket shock absorbers that are similar to the factory fitted ones if the ride height hasn't changed, ie. a straight swap for the factory fitted ones. Here's a long list of front shock absorbers for the Octavia MK3 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/shock-absorber-10221/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e3/58761-2-0-tdi?criteria[100][]=VA Are you really suggesting that an insurance company is going to go through that list and tell you which ones will increase your insurance premiums and which ones won't? I think the reply will be, fit whatever you want... I think by far the biggest problem for insurance companies is owners driving around on old, worn shock absorbers...not safety conscious drivers fitting new shock absorbers. Bear in mind that all shock absorbers do is try to keep the tyres in contact with the road. From a safety perspective, the better the shock absorbers the safer the car. Another problem could be that an owner fits what he thinks are high performance shock absorbers, perhaps because they are expensive, so tells his insurance company...and then after test driving the car finds out that the shiny, new, expensive shock absorbers that he's just fitted aren't anything of the sort and don't perform any different to the old ones...so asks for a refund...Is the insurance company going to give him that refund based on his new found knowledge? If the old shock absorbers were old and/or leaking, most new shock absorbers would be an improvement...so who's to say that these new, expensive shock absorbers really are high performance like the manufacturer claims or are they just standard shock absorbers with a flashy paint job and an expensive price tag? If anyone does want to inform their insurance company about fitting aftermarket shock absorbers, I suggest they don't describe them as high performance because unless you are a shock absorber expert and have specialised testing equipment...you won't know. Manufacturers' claims of high performance can't be relied upon, because those sorts of claims can be from wide boys in the marketing department simply trying to find an excuse to charge double the normal price. Expensive shock absorbers won't necessarily be high performance on your car, if they have the wrong damping characteristics. Cheap shock absorbers should be high peformance if they are correct for your car. Whether a shock absorber is high or low performance will often be subjective. Simply offer the insurance company the make and model of the shock absorbers that you are thinking about fitting. If I am correct that information will be completely meaningless to them due to having no database to consult about the risks posed by different makes and models of shock absorbers.

I've been driving a DSG for last 10 years and have mostly got used to it. Moving from the mk3 DSG to my Mk4 IV. Generally don't wheelspin the iV unless I'm in sports and really go for it. Most likely due to it having twice the horsepower than my old mk3. But down country roads you can definitely feel the battery. Car is a lot more bouncy and sometimes it does feel a bit light on the front. Had wheelspin in past while overtaking when the car starts to feel like I'm doing a wheely

^^^ That how it is for many in 2 pedal cars, Drivers modulation of the foot on the acceleration, and sometimes with a DSG just a bit of a roll on before booting it.

Yes, mine is the 8sp TC box, 1.4 TSI. Previously I had a 7sp DSG Golf, but no traction issues with that either. Not that it's never happened e.g. occasionally if the wheels are sitting on a wet white line at an intersection you can make it happen on take off, as you can in any FWD car, but not enough to call it a bothersome issue.

Geez, I remember when I and a couple of others dared to advocate for that in another thread not so long back.....talk about poking the bear! 🙄

Bilstein B6 shock absorbers aren't a modification as far as car insurance is concerned. Someone previously contacted their insurance company to confirm this. If they were, the insurance companies would have to decide which aftermarket replacement shock absorbers modified your car and which aftermarket shock absorbers didn't modify your car. This would be an impossible task for the insurance companies. If the outside appearance of the aftermarket replacement shock absorbers looks similar to the original ones then they are not modifying the car. Sometimes, Bilstein B6 absorbers are very similar internally to Bilstein B4 shock absorbers. If in doubt about this, then check the Bilstein B6 shock absorbers that Bilstein sells for Dacias. They just look like Bilstein B4 shock absorbers that have been painted yellow, and are sold at a low price. So Bilstein B6 doesn't always mean you are getting anything special. Most aftermarket shock absorbers are not identical to what was fitted in the factory. The aftermarket shock absorber brands use a one size fits all approach because they sell one shock absorber to replace possibly dozens of factory fitted shock absorbers. So technically, nearly all aftermarket shock absorbers are different from standard but are not regarded as a modification. Bilstein B4 front shock absorber (for the Karoq) Bilstein B6 front shock absorber (for Karoq)

I wouldn't call a 205/55R16 a normal sized spare tyre for the Superb MK3. Skoda has simply taken the 16" wheel from the Octavia MK3, ie. 205/55R16 fitted to a 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 rim...and repurposed it as a spare for the Superb MK3 in order to save money. Someone who tried this undersized spare wheel on a Superb MK3 reported that the brake on the undersized spare wheel overheated and that was after driving the car just one or two miles. Apparently, there's a button you need to push to deactivate some of the car's electronics, such as ABS, and traction control, etc. But if you forget, then the brake on that wheel overheats because the wheel rotates faster (due to having a smaller outside diameter) than the other wheels on the car...and hence the car's electronics thinks that the wheel is spinner/losing grip, etc., so repeatedly applies the brake on that wheel. Considering that a 215/60R16 will fit in the boot with the carpet flush if you fit it to a 6J rim (instead of the standard 6.5J rim), such as 6Jx16 ET40 5/112 57.1 (from the Superb MK1) or 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 (from the Karoq), there seems little point using the 205/55R16 spare. As shown in the chart below, the 205/55R16 has an outside diameter a whopping 5.8% smaller than 235/40R19. That's way too much difference. Outside diameter of tyres 205/55R16 631.9mm (5.8% smaller than 235/40R19) 235/40R19 670.6mm

I wonder if that's an OBDeleven vs VCDS thing? AFAIK, 76 was for older modules (circa 2009??) and 10 is for more modern ones. Example VCDS scan with the same module as you have on address 10: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/16113/#post-144479

Get an in-sewer-ants quote before proceeding.

It is returning to normal pricing, stop receiving discounts. There is no excess surcharge ("charging more") on the vehicle for being an EV. There is no tripling parking charges targetted against EV SUV's. 1.6t for regular vehicles, 2t for EV's. Most traditional automaker cannot compete in this area, must be dedicated EV platforms. Most EV, even mid-sized i4, are over 2t. Whereas the spacious Tesla Model Y comes in under 2t and wouldn't get excess fee. VW "loosing EV race to Tesla and China": https://edition.cnn.com/2023/12/14/business/volkswagen-losing-electric-car-race/index.html If VW cannot compete...... by numbers only a single VW vehicle in top 10 in 2023 Q1 to Q3: https://www.visualcapitalist.com/electric-vehicle-sales-by-model-2023/ Outside of EV's, 2023 world top selling car is a Tesla Model Y, European legacy car company not in top 3: https://www.best-selling-cars.com/brands/2023-full-year-global-best-selling-car-models-worldwide/ But destroyed is perhaps a bit strong. I'd say more of "out competed by Tesla and Chinese in EV segment". This is after state subsidy before taxes. The retail price is unchanged at $39k plus taxes. Not quite right to use GBP to invoke comparison with UK cars...... remember UK price for same car is £40k includes VAT. But at same time, it's not expensive either, when mid spec Golf is around similar price. 3 series also starts at £40k and Passat starts at £35k. German cars have expensive optional extras. Post-Covid cars are expensive.

Then, why not using 'Individual mode' with everything set on 'Normal' but the engine and/or gearbox (sorry, I can't remember exactly, what can be tuned) on 'ECO' or so ?... Your front all-seasons may be worn out before your P7 on the back... Especially with a FWD. It's already the case on my 4x4.

Be more interesting to see by sales values as tesla do not make cheap cars yet ? Also to compared these companies market cap ie worth as is TESLA not worth more than the next 4 put together ?

The tripling referred to is not the total ved raised by the changes. The current income from VED is £7.4bn In the year 25/26 the dragging in of EVs to paying ved will add £516m to the VED collected. By 27/28 the number of vehicles by then having to pay £10 a week ved will add £1.6bn That is tripling? Mainly created by the fiscal drag of calling an expensive car £40,000 in 2017 and that still being the figure ten years later in the projected benefits.

Hi I agree with Warrior193, it's too much of a coincidence having the cooling system drained and refilled and then the heater not working. Air lock would be my first thought. Cooling systems have got more complicated over the years, with control valves, multiple thermostats etc.

The electric SUV has to weigh more than two tonnes to get hit with the higher charges and that means certainly the French SUV EV will not get the extra charge as even the big Scenic SUV comes in at 1952 Kgs even with the huge 87 kWh battery pack. The 60 kWh Skoda might creep under but even the not that large 77 kWh battery packed Skodas and other sister clones will attract the higher tax as they are way weight over 2T.

Some vehicles / models rear tyres are horrible if put on the front after a while on the rear and having taken a set. (Shape) That can be noticeable even when people rotate wheels, or move them rear to front annually / at services. Some are best left where they are until binned as once moved to the front they can have the driver thinking of getting them changed.

The tyre fitter did say the majority of customers fitting all seasons like me, fit them on the front, for the grip. Presumably fwd.

The tyre fitter did say the majority of customers fitting all seasons like me, fit them on the front, for the grip. Presumably fwd.

Good, if you are out on the road or a motorway in the next days or anytime and cars / vans / HGV,s ate not getting grip / traction and movement then no point you being in the ame boat even if you are stuck the same as them until someone gets them moved. The 'Expert Advice' might be best tyres on the rear, but that is all good and well once moving, but no use if you can not get up even a slight uphill. If you drive carefully you should able to keep the rear following the front and not overtaking you.

In case the auto-electrician has yet to turn up. Generic codes relating possibly to fuel, clicking possibly the relay. A VW specific scan tool tool may give more info and if higher level more. Don't rely on the scan tool to always give the exact answer rather as a pointer to the area of issue and (another) diagnostic tool. Always check the basics though, are you battery terminals clean and battery terminal clamps clean and secure on the battery terminals, main and minor earth connections and wires clean, protected and secure. Any electric issues (if it is) and diagnostics best to have the car battery fully charged and not low or very low in charge.

Can only answer one question... yes and no. The DQ200 is a sealed unit so doesn't require oil changes. Earlier DQ200's didn't have the greatest reputation for reliability tho. The DSG mechanics are far too complicated for me to understand but there are plenty of issues with the mechactronics so not sure if you're experiencing an early failure symptoms. Sorry, but that's as much as I can add. Only other thing I can say is if it is mechatronics, then whilst some garages quote silly figures to fix the problem, there are specialist who can service the mechatronics unit for 1/4 of the price.

The guy from tyresonthedrive (halfords) came this morning and fitted 2 new Goodyear 4seasons in around 20 mins. Very efficient and courteous service, only gripes are he wouldn't do a tyre rotation so I have the new all seasons on the front and 50% worn P7's on the back. Job time doesn't allow him to do it even if I paid him. The other is he set the tyres to 38psi, my car requires 32psi, I think he looked at the wrong variant - maybe the diesel. But easily corrected and I also reset the tyre monitoring myself

hi all just to close this! turns out the battery was the issue. replaced and no faults since! (apart from a phone call from the wife about an Adblue Alarm!!) thanks for your help!

Ian, as noted it's not against any law to read and refer to the Owner's Manual as they can give you a lot of information about your car and can sometimes save you a lot of time, effort and expense. Also sometimes the Skoda Dealerships sell items and parts at a reasonable or good price so it's worth asking there, I've no idea about that item though. @NottsIan just for info, might interest you or it might not, the eBay links can be shortened to just the end of the item (itm) number, as examples from above. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355381054670 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305364198984

In March last year I paid £23.48 from a dealer who had one in stock.

I used one of the AAWireless boxes (https://www.aawireless.io/) on my 2019 Scout which had a Columbus system in it. Worked just fine.

@MarkyG82 For about 30 years or more i have at times put better Winter, Snow, All Weather / All Season tyres on the front maybe from around October if going places where the weather / roads might be poor for a few hours, ice / snow but it is not proper winter. 2 Tyre on the Front, a pair in the boot and a trolley jack and if i needed the 4 on i can. Or the 2 can get changed because it is cracking weather until proper winter comes. Beast from the East is nothing like a bit of a blow from the South on Wednesday / Thursday. March 2013 it was 23*oC across the Cairngorms and the next morning it was minus 3 *oC and deep snow and on went a pair of Snow tyres on the front and the All Seasons were on the rear still. (Tomorrow a set of 4 Maxxis AP3 on 16" Rims going on the MINI instead of the Vredsein Quatrac PRO on 17". Horses for Courses, heading to the Borders.) Hopefully the sidewalls are better than they were on the Maxxis AP 2 i had on the Fabia.) Good on snow though. The Vredstein have been good in the very wet but will not hack it on proper snow where not ploughed or gritted.

In Sept last year, I paid £28.65 for the door handle incl taxes and p&p from Cz Republic - arrived in 4 days as I recall. No idea how that compares with dealership - I didn't bother asking tbh!

Ok. Didn't know you were in Sweden. We have something similar. Cars here inspected after 3 years from registration and then every year after that.

Thanks mate

In terms of the mechanic bu***** , I think it's maybe, as you say, them being sure. I took it to Skoda who told me that it definitely needed both the pipe and the injector because once air gets into the system, it solidifies. Interestingly, where I had it repaired is a friend's garage and he wasn't charging me for the labour, so there was nothing in it for him. He did confirm what the Skoda garage said and said that he's had many jobs in where an enthusiastic DIYer has changed the injector alone and then the pressure from the damaged pipe has caused it to go again. I had a look at both parts as they came off and the pipe was clearly solid in feel along a number of places whereas the new pipe was freemoving all along its length. The injector was £158 so it wasn't worth risking having to do it all over again. For someone who is actually paying for labour, that's way too big a risk. It's just my particular experience and it was my decision on the job and the risk. I can guarantee that it's now running fine so I have peace of mind.

@odd your question has been answered 100+ times -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520234-superb-mk3-spare-wheel/#comment-5817816

Sorry i have not replied to anyone earlier, your belp has been greatlg appreciated. Thank you everyone. I have the 50mm shocks so alas the vrs will not fit. The octavia i jave is the 4x4 2.0tdi in sel trim. I jave decided to go with MarkyG suggestion of the B6. I do load it up when we go away so the stiffer shockers will help. As for greenmachines comment, yes i have had misting for last fes years, i get a bang when i go over a certain bump and yet it does not happen in other cars. The springs are ok and so is the top mount. Carlston is a wizz with finding data i must agree.

@Rooted - nothing crazy about that for the FWD Superb. My Superb 220, with factory 19s, was supplied with a 16" proper sized spare. It's designed for that. The Superb 280/272 on the other hand can't use a 16" spare on the front, and hence come with an 18" spare. 17" min to clear the brakes. I've since changed mine to a 19" full sized spare.

Considering the timing belt has to be replaced @ 210000 km and that water pump is usually done at the same time. I think the answer is 210000 km... 🤔

Im really curious to know why someone would buy a plug in when you can’t charge at home (on the cheap). As other threads here discuss the lovely low costs of running an iV short distances on cheap rate lecky and rarely visiting the petrol station

Mine came with a 205/55/16 on a steel rim, despite having the 235/45/18 fitted as standard on my L&K.

@Carlston's ability to gather data knows no bounds!

I succeeded to put my rear armrest back into operating conditions. But what a mess to open it and disassemble both plastic shells 🤯! It took me more than 2 hours! And... less than 10 seconds to clip them back together. 🙄 Bad news is: I've unfortunatley broken small clips inside Good news are: These missing clips won't be an issue. And... I have not broken the plastic shells, though they are very stiff. I just need to screw the armrest back in the car now. I'll post some interesting pics in the right thread.

Thanks. Rear shot below. Rims r the factory 19" Trinity/Phoneix. 19 x 8" ET44 to b exact. Tyres r 245/40/19. they originally came with 235/40/19. spacers (hubcentric):- 15mm front / 10mm rear as for the DCC-recalibration......it basically calibrates the DCC shocks to the car's the new drop height. lowering springs r shorter than factory springs, which means on full extension, the shocks don't extend like it did before. the re-calibration enable the shocks to control the rebound & compression better, hence less bouncy bouncy and wallowing. The calibration is done with all four wheels off the ground, so the DCC module stores the fully extended value of the sensors (2 up front, and 1 at the rear). Once the car is back on the ground, the DCC module stores a "center" value. DCC will only allow you to run the re-calibration with the suspension fully extended. The level sensors (all 3 of them) need to b in the proper range, i.e when the suspension is extended.