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1.4tsi CAXA chain driven cam https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=6 Now please go to the Octavia 2 forum where you belong ..😉

I’d still have it changed at 60k.

Front seat blower motor 3G0963345

What numbers were the codes? That's the key info anyone needs, in order to try to help.

I believe both of the front door modules are connected to the convenience CAN network, but each rear door is only LIN connected to its same-side front unit. So for the whole passenger side to be affected I would think it will be front passenger side wiring problem, causing the front module to not be 'playing nicely' with the car as a whole. That in turn will mean the rear doesn't work due to the absence of LIN communication to tell it what it should do. Having said all that, I haven't actually looked at the relevant circuits for the OP's car, but at that age/recency, I believe that is the general norm for VW group.

I would expect it to be in the front passenger side I'm afraid. Still well worth looking at the driver's side though.

The motor is available as a separate part. send me your vin number and I’ll look it up this evening for you.

In Boston a few years ago I booked a Ford Focus and got ......... a BMW X5!

@zmijutin you have the latest firmware, all others pls check your PM

no folding mirrors on the Mk2 im afraid.

Not clear if it will make it to UK, but seems to have seats from recycled materials. In the Sportline variants, Škoda Auto combines elements of the RS look with other powertrains in the series: the 1.5 TSI with 110 kW (150 hp), the 2.0 TSI with 150 kW (204 hp) and all-wheel drive as well as the two 2.0 TDI diesels with 85 kW (115 hp) and 110 kW (150 hp). The sports suspension, lowered by 15 millimetres, and progressive steering are also included as standard. The Škoda grille surround, window frames and wing mirrors are finished in Black Magic metallic on the Octavia Sportline, and the rear side windows and rear window are tinted (“Sunset”). The spoiler lips on the front apron and on the hatchback’s tailgate are also painted in Black Magic metallic, as is the roof spoiler on the Combi. The rear bumper features a Black Magic metallic diffuser. LED rear lights with animated turn indicators and animated Coming/Leaving Home function come as standard, while LED Matrix beam headlights are available as an option. The Octavia Sportline rolls on the new black 17-inch brushed Slagard aero wheels as standard. 18-inch Vega aero wheels and the 19-inch Draconis wheels exclusive to the Sportline are available as options. The front wings are adorned with redesigned Sportline badges. The new, two-dimensional Škoda logo on the bonnet and the Škoda lettering on the tailgate are black. The lettering projected onto the ground from the front doors conforms to the new Škoda CI. The scuff plates are finished in black. The interior of the Octavia Sportline is also modelled on the RS. Examples include the three-spoke multifunction sports leather steering wheel, the pedals’ stainless-steel look and the decorative strips in Black Middle Carbon on the dashboard and in gloss black on the doors. In the Sportline Design Selection, the sports seats’ upholstery is made of grey recycled fabric and artificial leather. Artificial leather is also used for the door trims and the PAD on the dashboard, complete with double rows of grey stitching. Here is full list of trim options Overview of the Design Selections Trim level. Name of interior, Seats Essence : Studio : Black fabric Selection Loft : Black fabric Selection Lodge : Recycled fabric/artificial leather Selection Lounge : Black Suedia/artificial leather Selection Suite Black : AGR certified ergonomic seats Black perforated eco leather/artificial leather Selection Suite Cognac : AGR certified ergonomic seats Cognac perforated eco leather/artificial leather Sportline : Sportline Sports seats, recycled grey fabric/artificial leather RS : RS Fabric : Black fabric RS : Suedia Artificial leather/black Suedia

An old friend of mine owns a tyre supply and fitting company and has contacts in the same trade all over the UK. He deals with the wholesalers and has contacts with manufacturers. We speak most weeks. He has a more wide-ranging overview of the business than any fitter. I too liked Michelins made in Dundee and liked going round the factory, but they were mostly the smaller, cheaper sizes and PCP deals killed them as nobody is going to fit top-quality tyres when they are due to hand a car back.

I've never come across an inertial sensor in the fuel pump wiring, so it would have to be integrated with another component, and there is only 3 of these it could be: 1. fuel pump relay (pretty sure this is just a standard relay, but never looked inside one), 2. fuel pump itself (never took one apart so could be possible), 3.ecu (again ECU doesn't control the pump, just the injector(s) so probably not) I am just referring to petrol injection models.

The error code is what points you to the fault Without the error code no-one can second guess whats wrong.

‘Reset professionally’? Opposed to? ’codes checked’? What were the codes before clearing? What codes returned? if you were 25 years in the motor trade then surely you’d know that to start an accurate diagnosis you need all the data present - including fault codes. No one is suggesting fitting a new anything? In fact we are doing the opposite and trying to help. No one is slapping anyone’s wrist either but consider this to be my last bit of advice with your approach to getting help.

Very lean mixture? I.e. hot combustion.

Not I but it could well have something in there all the same. Might try taking it out and cleaning it. Thanks for commenting.

I had my roof wrapped black. the wrap doesn't cover the sunroof, it was cut out around it. Around £200.

Have you (or anyone else reading) had this done? Approx cost? Sounds like a great workaround to me, and I've just suggested it to someone I know with a leaky one.

It does make sense. If you look at an MQB fusebox (I bought one from a breaker just to get an idea of how they work) you’ll see they work in essentially the same way as even the CE2 fusebox on earliere VAG stuff (mk2/3 Golf, Corrado etc) in that they have several large common feeds going into them - those feeds being permanent live and ignition live - and then different fuse terminals receive whatever power is required. To answer your question directly - I used an ignition live feed (terminal 30) with a 10A fuse. I didn’t use a fusetap, I don’t really like using them for anything other than a semi-permanent consumer like a dashcam.

yeah, im thinking it being Spain improves the odds a bit, that said i booked the same in Alicante back end of 2022 and got an MG ZS suv...

Sadly that's one way many people misuse front fogs. The legal position is quite clear, but since it's never enforced it's basically irrelavnt that so many people misuse front fogs as additional main beam.

I was going to say that Pete knows more about it than I do and he beat me to it. @Breezy_Pete, you have explained the function and schematic before and if I have understood and recalled it correctly isn't the drivers door controller the main one that communicates with the other electronic modules by Canbus and with the other door controllers via Linbus? Would a break in that Linbus wire not prevent the passenger doors from functioning or would they still function autonomously in the absence of comms with the master controller? I ended up scrapping my MK1 for exactly the same faults, passenger doors, fuel flap and rear hatch all not working or only intermittently, unfortunately I was not an active forum member then and did not know of VCDS which would have made all the difference.

Both cambelt and water pump are now officially lifetime items. Last year, VAG formally announced, across all brands, the end of the 4/5 year cambelt scam. For the 1.5 tsi engines, inspection is recommended at 15 years / 180,000 miles. So not a bargaining point.

Not if the car is reasonably priced, expecting the seller to fund your future maintenance might result in you being shown the door if they are someone like me, much better (in my view) to say "you are asking X, I will offer you Y"

It will likely be a fractured wire in the door loop and unless your vehicle was/is a taxi then the chances are it will be in the drivers door loop which (usually) gets far more wear than the other doors. Its the first place to look and if I am right then you are in luck as you can effect the repair without having to open the passenger door.

Whilst its not going to make your car unreliable, I think the top edge of the front wheel arches, starting from the innermost lip, are prone to rusting. It's as if the wheel arch liners, when they are removed (for cambelt replacement on a diesel, so maybe not happening on petrol models), they scrape the paint on the inside edge of the wing, leaving it prone to rust. It starts off out of sight, then works its way around the bend and upwards onto the vertical face of the wing. I've seen this on quite a few older Golfs, Passats etc., and it's started on my 2019 Superb, but is still out of view. A close-up picture with a camera, using the flash, will reveal the paint bubbling at the lip, if it's started. In a different vein, my heater fan motor had started very gently squeaking when spinning down/turning off. On both occasions this has happened, I've popped the motor out and lubed the lower bearing. (The carbon brushes seemed a reasonable length, btw). Has this prevented an eventual motor seizure and replacement? Who knows? The car has done 155,000 miles, it's a 2009, 1.9 PD. I bought it at 20,000 miles.

Got my 2018 Superb L&K with DSG (presumably DQ381) rewarranted in December aspart of the servicing / MOT / recovery / warranty offering. Odometer somewhere around 89k miles The gearbox went into emergency mode on the M60 J12 / M62 junction at evening rush hour last week. Would only select first gear - no other gears available. The traffic was slow, but not that slow! I got picked up and transported within an hour to a 'safe place' but then had to wait a further 5 hours for an AA man with a diagnostic tool to come and read the codes. By then I'd cycled the engine a number of times so the EML light had gone out. He drove it around the car park and said it was fine to drive. Drove it another 70 miles home and reported it to Skoda dealer the next day to see what they wantred to do with it. It went in ealier this week for a scheduled service (and a DSG oil change), and they've told me it requires a new control unit - so presumably the mechatronic unit - and it was covered under the warranty. It's apparently on back order and could be 2 weeks before it arrives. They showed some compassion though - they didn't change the DSG oil and charge me £300 for it as the warranty work requires replacing it anyway. From what I remember the fault code was a clutch position sensor. I guess the warranty saved me a bunch of money!

Ooh - you might actually get a Leon Estate - we booked a Leon sized car in Portugal a couple of years ago and got exactly that!

Kia 😁

Of course they start with the FREAKIN UMBRELLA THAT EVERY REVIEW HAS AND FOR SOME REASON THEY GAVE ME A GODDAMN SNOW BRUSH........... IN PORTUGAL!!!!!! Sorry for that, it's just really REALLY annoying.

I have only one SD card slot, and no NAV button. So I guess no NAV for me? I just searched the Skoda page for my unit, and I think it's called Bolero.

How many SD card slots? AFAIK an Amundsen always has 2 - one for media and one for maps. Do you have a NAV button? If not then you likely do not have either an Amundsen or a Columbus, which means you would have a unit that does not support navigation.

I honestly don't like the new lower grille area without the fog lights, the new headlights are neat though. It looks like they realized the shiny door handles were annoying as hell with low sun glaring and made them matte Also the new infotainment system seems better, the fact you can add shortcuts to the persistent bar on the bottom is pretty useful.

Finally got a response from Skoda Finance. They have confirmed that the suspension doesn't need replacing and they have compensated me for the issues I've had.

I have to disagree. I have put starship mileage on diesel’s over the years. I currently have a remapped VW diesel 2.0TDI 290bhp from new and now has done 200,000 miles. Runs like new and no oil burning. Going back to the OP a friend recently bought a Tiguan with the 150bhp Evo engine. It’s the quietist diesel engine i have heard to date. I’m sure the 200bhp evo engine is quite similar.

@Quadra840AV Hiya, is this of any use to you? I'm going to be doing some parking sensor troubleshooting soon, after I sort out some front passenger doorlock issues. Cheers Parking Aid Roomster_2006.pdf

Knackered! I don't know much about airbag problems, never had any dealings. Don't know anything about parking sensor problems either! V68 fault might cause unpredictable cabin temperature issues.

2010 Octavia 1.4 is most likely the EA111 1.4tsi and has a camchain. Futhermore its a mk2 Octavia, this is an Octavia Mk3 forum. EA211 came in with the mk3 Having said that if his car's done 110,000 miles without a chain change, he's been extremely lucky given the history of the EA111 series. Bet it rattles on cold starts.

I've had two Roomsters in the past, both with fixed glass roofs. I miss this feature dreadfully on my Yeti. Were I in Prezafab's position, I would certainly consider an L&K with no leak damage and taping up the sunroof with Gorilla or Helicopter tape.

I doubt any Fabia mk2 had electric folding mirrors. If it does, the control will be part of the left/right/heat thumbweel on the driver's door as an extra position that has a folded mirror symbol in an extra position similar to this Try looking in your manual, you can download these from the skoda website if you don't have a physical one.

Totally agree. All it needs is better sound proofing and it would just be perfect

Been more than 3 months since Gandalf had a wash 😕 Happy with how shiny it still turns out, despite being almost 7 yrs old 😁

last day of the year out at crail, times down due to no heat in the ground but fastest trap speed its ever done so making the power still Racing a PD160 Cupra with a 2260 and 100bhp of nitrous on top Racing a friend who does VWDRC in his 20vt Lupo on drag slicks, no traction for me at all but still reeled him in PD130 ibiza with a PD150 turbo Racing a friends clio 182 turbo, ran out of meth but before this run and forgot to top it up so was a fair amount of power down compared to usual Then ended the reason with a trip to pod with the AWD RX7

Still not happy with the doors closing sound so...strenghten the weatherstrips. I added silicone tubing ( not foam tubing as in the clip ) inside the weatherstrip located on the doors, now everything feels solid as rock! Ps. Don't use tubing above 5mm in diameter otherwise will be very hard to close the doors! Below the inspirational clip : inspir

MK3 Sport line 19' 2017 / 2.0TDI - 150 ps. / 320 000 km

They say a picture paints a thousand words so ............. Still jobs to do but it's the first drive in nearly 7 years so was quite nervous/emotional! Matt

Electric Suction Door 2pcs https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Soft-close-automatic-auto-body-systems_60795154530.html video -> 2023-05-29 at 19.12.53.mp4

That's it. Doors, trunk and rear seat done. As promised, here are some pictures of the front door. Overview Crash clip 1, screw type. Crash clip 2, releases by lifting the door card. Anchor on door card for crash clip 2. Door control module. The connector on the right side (brown/green) was sliding back and forth and rattling. Another potential source of rattle. Pressure sensor for the airbag system. This should be left connected and untouched. Door card finished. Didn't put any material close to the LED projector as it has a heatsink that needs some air around it.

The Isofix anchoring points have to be pushed downward to release the shroud from the anchor. You can lift the cover to see how it's supposed to come out. The front part releases with a firm pull upwards. The clips holding the front in place may break or not, so either get some spares or hope for the best. Mine stayed intact. When both the front and back are loose, push the whole seat a centimeter backwards and lift upwards, to release it from it's notches. The cable for the weight detectors is on the left side, be sure to disconnect that one before lifting the seat any further, same applies for seat heating if present.