Leaderboard

I not only "claim to be able to" drive 6+ hours without a toilet/food/coffee break, I actually do a few times every year. So there.....

I'm a bit of a cynic over these stories tbh. They never seem to lead to a recall or safety notice which implies nothing found. I'm sure with older petrol driven similar incidents it was fairly normally to see the driver get nicked later. Why was the Jag doing 90mph? If the throttle was stuck or a connection left open why 90? Top speed it limited to 124 but assuming there is a fault why would the limiter apply? Cynic talking - guy got caught doing 90 and rather than take the 4 points he's blaming the car for a bit of publicity too.

^^^ Not for you then. Long story short.

Most people are out of date with what Skoda UK are now recommending. Would expect forum regulars to know though, loads of recent threads on the subject.

With the increasing ranges of EVs and judging by comments often made by those who buy or own these EVs, options should be offered to make their lives even easier and more comfortable.

A few deer out the back again

Mine started showing signs of water ingress again (damp drivers footwell carpet) and chased it back up to the headliner again. Interestingly the Mk3 VRS Buyers Guide on PistonHeads refers to the fact that not all panoramic roofs fitted to these cars turned out to actually be water proof -- they aren't wrong 😞 I'm afraid I don't have the energy to keep fighting with this issue every few years, so I resolved the issue permanently... by buying a different car with a tin top (the fairly lacklustre performance of the TDi VRS was also a contributing factor) I appreciate that probably isn't helpful to anyone suffering with this but hope the earlier comments in this thread and my other one have helped others. Sun roof - never again!

I’m now on my second Kamiq and they have both been the quietist cars I’ve ever owned in terms of rattles and squeaks. The build quality is second to none. Every car will produce the odd rattle, squeak or vibration, no matter whether it’s a Dacia or a Rolls Royce. Thousands of bolted on, screwed on, riveted on and moving engine parts on our crap roads will unfortunately result in the odd noise, it’s simple physics. Unless it is horrendous (in which case I’d insist the dealer deals with it) I would not go to the trouble of the previous poster, screw that.

Those of you that do not have the same range as your vehicles (I did not use autonomy this time! 👍) do you have to get up during the night as well? If so how many times? My maximum budget for a new (to me) vehicle has always been £3K and for that plus a few quid in repairs I have always managed to find a decent sought after late model vehicle, since Covid that no longer seems to be the case but I intend keeping this one forever so its neither here nor there unless someone crashes into me.

Look up the meaning of ignorant and you will see it is commonly used as a rude and insulting term. You would be better using 'ill informed' as it is not rude and insulting.

There are also people who have done the Math and realise the extra initial outlay for an electric vehicle that will fit their needs will not be recouped by the time they change the vehicle. Yet. But look forward to the day it is possible.

I think some people here claiming able to drive 4+ hours might need one of those. 😛 It's no denying choices are non existence for under £10k because of lagging manufacturers, too slow to put EV into mass production. Under £10k get you a great local EV. (Leaf, Zoe 22/40) Can be your main vehicle most of the time. Still need to keep the old ICE for longer trips. But still saves a lot of fuel and reduce local air pollution. £10k to £20k gives a lot of options for an acceptable EV to replace a single ICE car. (Zoe 50, Ioniq 38, Kona, eNiro, ID3) £20k or more buys a full featured ICE replacement without any compromise. (Model 3) Key, as always, is home charging. Cheaper EV is coming. This 100 miles range city car only costs £15k brand new: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/dacia-spring-uks-cheapest-electric-car Although it isn't impossible without home charging in a city, as demonstrated by this video: (S London, 5 miles commute, 1 trip to Manchester and a few hiking trips, all in a 100 miles EV)

This bit is true, your thinking is also true. It all depends on how panels are wired up. Simplest and most common is wire up in series. Using what's called string inverter. A string of panels in series. Single panel get shaded, whole string generation drops. Middle is solar panel optimisers, panels are wired up in series through those. Any shading would not increase whole resistance in the whole string. Most expensive install use micro-inverters on the panels. They output AC and are wired up in parallel directly to the grid. Some explanation: https://www.freshelectricalsolar.co.uk/solar-panel-optimisers/

4th speed bypasses the resistor pack, so if it doesn't work, there might be an issue with fuse, wiring or the motor itself. Check connector to the motor - it's in the engine bay, on the side of the ventilation inlet, white 2 pin connector. It often corrodes burns due to increased resistance.

I think your personal wealth is possibly obscuring your view of the reason why people in the cheap seats are "resisting" these magical devices.

Not tested it but the EV forums have said that if you start the car with the bonnet open it will start the engine. I can also confirm that you can start the engine by pressing all the way to the floor on the go pedal. The engine goes nuts for a couple of seconds as it's seeing full throttle but if you let off it should stay running.

Take a careful note when you next fill up with fuel - full tank to tank reading is the only accurate gauge for fuel economy.

Why would you want them off? Auto lights are notorious for people driving around in poor visibility and no rear side lights. Personally I always code them to be on.

@dorix thanks for reporting back. So often is the battery, despite many still not accepting the possibility, but it also shows it is best always to start with the basics before moving on, in fact you usually cannot successfully carry out further diagnostics without first checking the basics. Some unscrupulous tradesmen rely on the basics not being checked to make money out of stuff owners could do for themselves (if the owner wants to that is). Nice easy fix is to fully recharge the battery but if you have left it too late then a new battery and something learnt for the future to prevent it happening again. Goods luck. .

Crazy but inspiring!

Used as or perceived as rude by the reciever? I have never taken it as an insult when its used correctly to describe my lack of knowledge of something, I use it frequently to describe myself but that is also a French thing, I have no qualms using it with French people but I dont tend to in English, not because I think it is an insult but because like many things these days some seek tp become victimised, my sister being off the scale turning even a compliment against herself.

Indeed.... When I replace the Swift, which incidentally has a near 300 mile range despite its tiny fuel tank, I'll probably go electric but will only want to pay about £11k which is what I paid for the Swift which is a top of the range model and had only done 800miles. Even the Kodiaq with 16k miles was only £18k and the most I've ever paid for a vehicle in nearly 40 years of motoring.

Happy memories - I had a fair few manual choke equipped 'Breadvan Polo's which were a joy to operate, especially when compared with later Autochoke (? Pierburg) carb versions👍

Good idea, as you know the salesman will tell you it has been updated and then you'll get there it won't have been. I have had my 70 plate (January 2021) First Edition since October 2023 and it came without the software update, I got it done at my local Skoda dealership (the original dealership was not local to me) and the difference is night and day. Now very stable and snappy.

I understand, thank you very much. Is it possible to make a summary of all the coding to be done in succession?

Yours is E-W so how many inverters do you have? It would make more sense to have 1 for each array so that you can extract the absolute maximum from your solar. As to the other 2 people in your close that have similar looking aspects, I sincerely hope that they have been correctly advised, as there are indeed many cowboy companies out there who aren't strictly cowboys in the sense that they do dangerous installations, but can be very economical with the truth when it comes to pay back calculations etc. Well it certainly comes across in that fashion. The above is yet another example of the impression you give that everybody should be buying EVs today if they are in a position to home charge, otherwise you are actually insulting them by saying that is plain ignorance or a 5-year-old adult. Now, I'm pretty dammed sure that if anyone were to use phrases like about you, you would take exception to their arrogance and superior attitude.

I think you'll find it IS the reason for a large swathe of the population, particularly in relation to initial outlay, even second hand (looking at the prices for something comparable in terms of mileage and size to the vehicles we have).

Not 5 years anymore

Hi @szking, As your car is a Sportline, those triangular lights (under the headlight) are not lights, just fillers. On some of the Superbs with a lesser spec' these are used as side-lights. Have a look with a torch and see if there's a bulb there, I don't think there is, certianly there isn't on my car. The fog lights will come on individually when turning left or right and both come on when you reverse.

At that mileage I doubt any engine will be significantly more economical than another. DSG? The engines you're looking at all come with the same maintenance free DSG gearbox so in theory shouldn't cost any more to maintain than a manual. But 1: the car will be more expensive to buy and 2: cross your fingers nothing goes wrong with the DSG as they're expensive to repair. IMO it'd be wise to have a DSG under warranty which of course is an additional cost. If anyone had costs near the top of their list of priorities, I'd recommend a 1.0 manual.

Out of the standard Superb MK3 wheel sizes, 215/60R16 (perhaps 215/60R16 95V) tyres fitted to 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 rims would give the best ride. There's a choice of steel or alloy rims, as shown below. You might think that alloy rims will weigh a lot less than steel rims, because the sellers will often incorrectly describe the alloy rims as "lightweight". However, the below steel rim is just over 8kg, whereas the below alloy rim is almost 10kg. With the steel rim you do have to add on the weight of the wheel trim, but even with that fitted the below alloy rim will still weigh more. The 18" alloy rims on the Superb MK3 weigh around 12.1kg to 12.8kg each, so there is a considerable reduction in weight by going down to the 16" rims...as well as much better ride comfort. Superb MK3 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 steel rim 3Q0601027C 03C https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/plechovy-disk-16/p/3Q0601027C+03C Superb MK3 wheel trim (for 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 steel rim) 3V0071456 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-hermes-16/p/3V0071456 Superb MK3 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 alloy rim 3V0071496 8Z8 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-orion-16-superb-iii/p/3V0071496++8Z8

My commute is 10 miles on A roads with one set of lights at mostly 50-55 mph, recently with around 43-46 mpg indicated, which will improve slightly with warmer weather. On a 30 mile drive last weekend on A roads, keeping up with traffic, it was showing 51 mpg. After 30 years of manuals, my last 3 cars have been DSG and I am converted, I can't fault their overall performance. Unlike my last Superb which had the oomph to sit in 7th unless urgent acceleration was required, the Karoq's DSG box keeps it in 6th on a light throttle at 50-55 and will drop down into 6th fairly easily on inclines. It's just an observation and is simply holding the car in the right gear, matching economy/power requirement . When power is required urgently, i.e. kickdown, my experience is that regardless of engine power, a DSG box hesitates and can go down too many gears. In the Karoq it's smoother and safer to pre-plan and flick down a gear or two using the paddles behind the steering wheel. Finally beware the "smaller engines always equals better economy" mantra. My friend recently got a 23 plate 1.0 Fabia Monte Carlo DSG. It's very nice but its economy is definitely slightly worse than the 2020 Octavia 1.5 TSI which he traded in. I hope you get a reliable car and a good deal.

Thanks for the heads-up, unfortunately the Ross-Tech instructions are for the older CAN protocol system. Mine is UDS so the menu options are completely different.

Many thanks to rum4mofor the link to easymanuals. I downloaded the file for my Fabia: big document: more than 8000 pages!!!

couple of other suggestions: Does the bulb illuminate if you apply 12v to it directly whilst it's still mounted in the lens assembly? If it does and given you say you have checked you are getting 12v at the socket to the lens unit & there is a good earth from the lens unit then take a look at the female connectors, have they opened out at all ? if they have the male side may be going in and not touching the sides (had this issue on a Panavia Tornado once and took me ages to bloody find out that was the problem. )

Just change. No need to code or recalibrate, provided u haven't changed the DCC controller/module.

With just the resistors in place you'll measure 6v between the resistors but introduce a load(battery!) then it all changes. Voltage drop more determined mainly by V=IR over the first resistor where the current drawn will be determined by current through the second resistor and drawn by the battery. Something like this will do the job... https://www.amazon.co.uk/EBILUN-Converter-Voltage-Changer-Regulator/dp/B07HCC8C6Z

I just love how we went from a “fight” back to really good and thoughtful conversation haha. I am sorry how I replied before, but it just annoyed med how you said it. I understand that you didn’t have any ill intentions or anything else. You have great knowledge and you are very smart in explaining and sharing your thoughts and experiences. I will update this thread as soon I have more updates hahaha! Right now it is cold and snowy in Sweden. Therefore I don’t even think about changing my wheels yet. Somewhere in April I might have some updates on how much room there is in arches and will I even get a new set of wheels. cheers

I started a post in 2019 about the same type of noise. I had the cambelt changed , but the "rotatating noise" from bottom of engine stayed ...long story short it was the oil /vac pump situated in the sump , nothing to worry about kept the car a few years and never missed a beat. Here is the original post thread I started. hope this helps

I will just move the fan housing to the right side above the brake master cylinder, offset if you know what I mean. I will post some pictures in a couple of days so you can see exactly what I mean.

Note: this is not a fitting guide for changing rear brake discs and pads but notes and tips from when I done so. Hopefully this will also give encouragement as if I can do the job just about anyone can. For the rear ("230 mm") brakes of my wife's 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI SE I needed 13 & 15 mm spanners, Torx T30 driver and borrowed a mate's rewind tool with suitable end plate that turned the piston back. There was not a need to remove the caliper carrier cradle to get the old discs off and new ones on, a [ ETA: H7(?) or H8(?), I forget, see following posts ] hex would have been required if I had needed or wanted to remove the caliper carrier cradle. The discs are held by one T30 headed short screw, one of these screws had already fell out on one discs but the other side was in so tight I wished I had loosened them before removing the caliper and pads so my tip would be to loosen these off whilst you can still apply the handbrake or other easy bracing. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One, or two, of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). I used the Pagid brand for both pads and discs as that's what I put on the front a few years ago and they seemed OK in use. Rear Pagid pads included new (thread-lock applied) screws. Replacing the discs & pads is a very dirty but uncomplicated job but being brakes needs to be done thoroughly and properly, don't worry about any macho boasting of how quick it can be done rather allow multiples of time to do the job thoroughly and well, plus Sod's Law you'll find other stuff that you should do whilst you're there. Hope some of this helps and applies to your model. I also wrote a notes and tips post/thread for the front discs and pads previously. -

Hi guys, here is the first look and review of the new Superb in L&K trim I filmed in Graz Austria including price.

I think an Octavia weighs almost a ton and a half. Will take a fair amount of fuel to move it from stationary which happens a lot more in town traffic. You can reduce fuel usage with better anticipation at junctions etc.

I've just started on my 2020 MK3 Octavia. Like the MK7 Golfs, they all rust in the wheel arch area. Its important to spend a day, taking out the wheel arch liners, using a jet washer to clear out the tutt....then using a waxoil or tetroseal clear coating, spray loads of protecting wax at the sils (especially near the "sponge" at the back of the wheel arch), down the sill and especially at the top of the struts (which also attract loads of road grime).

Check the battery voltage. Most places that sell batteries will perform a free battery test. It may just need a good recharge (up to 48 hrs on a battery charger) A failing or weak battery will always be worse in the cold.

Correct, which is crazy IMO, it sounds like they have been coded to be on.

I've owned my 2018 Superb 280 L&K from new, and I thought about changing it last year, but there was nothing I fancied (in my price range). Since I love the car, I decided to stick with it, but looked into getting a bit more power out of it. After shopping around, I went with a couple of local businesses here in the North East of England. Firstly I went for a turbo back custom exhaust system - 3 inch bore, sport cat, back box (and hence valve) delete, and large central silencer. It's a bit loud for me (actually it's more the resonance), so I'll probably get this sorted in the future. Next, I got a Forge Intercooler, Ramair Induction Kit and Forge Muffler Delete fitted. Then it went on the dyno. I ended up with 396bhp / 526Nm (graph attached), which was pretty much where I was aiming. It was a relatively warm day when it went on the dyno, so on a colder day it possibly could have done just over 400bhp. Unfortunately, just before Christmas, my stock turbo went up in a cloud of smoke. Since then it's been in the garage, where they've mainly been waiting for parts. I've now had fitted a new Garrett Powermax Turbo (Stage 1), and upgraded HPFP, with it ready to go on the dyno next week. I'm hoping for about 480bhp, but time will tell. The biggest delay they've had though is in trying to source an upgraded LPFP. They initially thought a Golf R / Audi S3 one might fit, but this proved incorrect (hence my question to you earlier). They're going to map it with the stock LPFP in place, but if this proves to be the bottleneck, I wanted to better understand my options.

I like Rotis. Gandalf likes Rotis. Together, they make a good form!! 😂 Really pleased with how these turned out, and the fitment is spot on. Rotiform LAS-R 19x8.5 ET35 Matte Black

I have the same issue You have. On inspection with a body panel friend of mine we located the leak to these two points. After using plastic resin to seal it seams to have stopped. I hope this helps. Time to sell the Škoda.