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Hi everyone - just taken delivery of a new Superb Hatchback 2 litre TSI DSG 2wheel drive standard suspension from a Skoda dealer. Front shock absorber transport blocks not removed prior to collection. This came to light as I experienced a number of instances when travelling on the open road even a minor road imperfection generated a huge thump through the whole car. Sensing that something was not right I researched BRISKODA and found a possible cause relating to the transport blocks on the front shock absorbers not having been removed as part of the PDI exercise. Contacted the dealer and they confirmed this might well be the cause I would need to have the car booked in to my local Skoda dealer to have this checked over. I have asked to see a copy of the PDI inspection report as I need the assurance that the PDI was carried out and that there are no other outstanding matters which need attention. In the meantime, I checked for the transport blocks myself and found the buffers still in place. I have now removed these (2 buffers each side) and the car in transformed. Thanks guys for the heads up. It's simply crazy why this issue is still coming up year after year after year!

A friendly goat I happened across in Derbyshire earlier today ........

Thanks everyone for your advice. I'd forgotten that the rear seats moved back and forward because I only ever have them fully back. Except that, in this instance, the offside one had somehow shifted very slightly forward - barely noticeable alongside the other seats, but sliding it fully forward and then firmly back (sat in the seat and pushing with my legs) it released and folded just fine. So all is now good 👍 Now I just have to remember this next time it does it...

They are to help form a seal between the engine compartment and the cabin air intake grille just in front of the wiper arms.

Can’t recall whether I ever posted an update. In case not, after 4 months of emails and telephone calls, the dealer I bought the car from has paid me for what it cost to replace all 4 tyres and a wheel alignment - around £1100. The general manager at the dealer told me the cost was being shared with Skoda UK. I have to say that I am quite surprised and it was definitely more difficult for them that they had to give me cash rather than fit new tyres through their network. But I had to get them done as the rears were an MOT failure and after 4 more months they would have blown out. One thing that helped I think is that I posted on the FB group Skoda EV Lounge which is run by Skoda. On there you will see that a lot of Scandinavian customers have been compensated. The more customers who complain the more likely Skoda will correct the problem at source. If not the dealers need to check alignment as part of their PDI. Although the PDI that my dealer did was a joke. Good luck to all those with the problem. Not all Enyaqs have the problem. Nothing to do with Bridgestones btw. Message me if anyone wants my Skoda case number.

I’ve always treated the ‘Except for access’ as being only to get to properties in that zone - residents, deliveries.

Although in all honesty I'd rather have the white Lotus (and an Alpine if I wanted to go fast)👍

Thanks all for the input. Rear springs were uprated for towing last year. Definitely not sagging - normal people lower their cars, I raised mine! @J.R. You went to great lengths to advise me on this. @EnterName Never looked into the undersealing, any links?

I remember back in the 80’s and a magazine, either Motor or Autocar, were test driving what I remember was a Mazda RX5 and criticised its shocking ride. A few weeks later Mazda admitted the transport blocks were still in. Stupidity isn’t confined to any trade or aspect of life, it is widespread and universal.

Have put gas struts on my Karoq bonnet and they just leave a depression where the gas struts lie when shut, no need to remove 👍

One notable point is Lexus/Toyota singled out as lemons, the largest car company in the world so wide of the mark, even after success with the Prius.

Not really a post worthy of an update but dragged the car out and had a bit of a tidy up of the garage so there was a bit more room for the car, got the wheels out the back that have been in there since 2019 😂 Done some basic checks as well, checked the cambelt which looks good, all the lights work, just have a DRL which isn't working so need to replace that, found some oil in the boot along with some gloves which are definitely in need of a wash 😂 plus a bonus of some blue roll, also gave the engine a wipe just to remove some of the residue corrosion that's built up on the block as well.

The Octavia 3 has smaller inserts, and when I installed gas struts to replace the prop, I wondered the same. However, in practice they just dented the insert as they lay across them. So I left them in situ with no problems occurring.

In one of my Roomsters (same setup) it was not enough to push the seat back by hand. It needed leg power! I had to get into the seat, then slide it fully forward, then push it back hard against the stop before the mechanism would allow me to lift the seat.

Had a RARB fitted years ago on my MK3 and it was a lovely update on the steering input. Much sharper and less roll. Had the Hunter alignment done with this. IMO laser alignment is well worth it for handling and even tyre wear. I have always found that Octavia's sag a little in the rear after a year or so causing inside shoulder wear. Combine that with the array of potholes about ATM and you'll be surprised how far out tracking can be.

I’m waiting for an estate … with 800v batteries.

You keep mentioning 'locking' in both your post which is perhaps where your getting confused. It's unlocking the vehicle and double unlocking with the remote key. Good news is that I've fixed the issue. The problem was caused due to a break in the brown/yellow signal wire between the button and the control unit J519. The actual break was within the left side rubber tubing between door and chassis. A new strip of wire, a bit of solder, some heat shrink tubing and all is good as new. Thanks for your advice nta16. I hope this helps someone in the future with similar issues.

While overall super happy with my 2.0TDI, I hear too much the engine noise. It is not the end of the world, but it grinds me down on long journeys. And particularly when I compare with the Volvo S60 I used to drive. So I started researching how to make it quieter. This post is documenting what I have done and I will do. And in case anyone has ideas, just add to it. 1.- Ideas to get references: The superb III owners has a very long thread (23 pages and counting) on the topic. It made me wonder that maybe the mk2 is better in this regard. This YT channel has interesting material. Example video: Sound Deadening a Car Where It Actually Makes a Difference! A bit off topic, but this video How Much Weight can you REMOVE from your Car? (Weight Reduction) opened my eye to the insane amount of insulation material you can find in a BMW 3-series. I do suspect you won't find the same in a Skoda. Insonorizar Coche a Nivel Profesional | El Secreto de los Coches de Lujo. What would it take to go full in into making a car quiet (in Spanish) 2.- My plan. So I won't go a fully deep as the pro-video at the end (though I may consider it), but I do plan on making the 20% that may give 50% of the return. Bonnet insulation, trunk insulation, and a quick change in the floor mats. 3.- Progress so far: ACTION 1: In the trunk, I put sound absorption under the spare wheel. There is very little sound dampening, but I made a quick fix. I got approx 1x1m sound absorbing foam, made a hole, and threw it under the wheel. This was super quick to do, and about 14 EUR for the foam, if I recall correctly. RESULT: My goal is mainly to reduce engine noise, so it had no impact there. But this was super quick and easy. Interestingly, the back feels way quieter. Right after doing it, I game me the impression that a chunk of the car in the back was missing, because I didn't hear as much noise. RECOMMENDATION?: Yes do it, because it is super fast. Also, it can be undone, there is no glue involved. Picture of the kind of material I am taling about. Picture of the wheel space BEFORE I put the foam. I have no after pictures, but basically anywhere you see metal sheet (brown), now is covered with foam. ACTION 2: INJECTOR CLEANER. I read it may help the enginge run better and be smooother. I had to do it for maintenance regardless. RESULT: No difference in sound. RECOMMENDATION? For the injectors, and also it is quick and cheap. But no noise change at all. ACTION 3: NEW CARPETS, AND STICKING NOISE ABSORPTIONUNDERNEATH. So I got new mats, because the previous ones were too old. These are rubber, as they fit better how I use the car. Happy with the mat, and decided to stick a 1cm thick sound foam underneath. It took me some time to cut it to size. RESULT: Less vibration through the feet. A bit less of noise probably. RECOMMENDATION? Optional, but I do appreciate a bit less of vibration. Also, super easy place to add noise insulation on the interior, as one has perfect access. ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER So now heading straigth to address my main problem with engine noise. This requires a bit more time, and I am still working on it. First, I removed the headshield in the car... and there is the heat shield, that starts to show its age (14 years), not looking flexible and letting go some powder. Also, the bonnet metal sheet has zero sound dampening or insulation. I don't know if the heat shield is supposed to absorb noise, but I do not think it is in any condition to do so effectively. So yesterday, I started to apply alubutyl layer, and sticking it. I am only 40% done, because I ran out of time and the surface is complicated with all the different crevices. This is a bit of a tiresome job. RESULT: So far, inconclusive. I can't sense a difference. but I am not done.... FUTURE ACTIONS: ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER, COMPLETE IT. Maybe in a couple of weeekends I will have time, and then... ACTION 5: CAR BONNET 2. SOUND INSULATION LAYER. I will add a second layer of sound insulation foam. From the videos, alubutyl mainly prevents vibration on the metal, and the job of the sound foam is to absorb the noise. So both work together better. I will report back with pictures on both processes. ACTION 6 - MAYBE: Figure out where else in the engine bay can alubutyl and sound insulation be applied. ACTION 7 - MAYBE: Put noise absortion in the front wheel wells. UNLIKELY ACTIONS: I won't go any deeper on a DIY mode (no door panels, removing seats and carpet, dismounting pillars,...) If I am not satisfied, I may go to get a professional sound insulation, the kind that removes the seats removes carpet removes car panels ...and adds insulating material throughout. Like the Spanish video I link above. Any ideas on cost? If I am not satisfied, make peace with it. Or save a lot of money and buy a Lexus. That is my plan. Any ideas, welcome! I will report back as I make progress.

"* Target Figures - The vehicle specifications detailed on this page are target specifications based on simulations. " Amazing if they can achieve it. It's got dedicated motor for each wheel. I was searching for a slightly cheating fast accelerating EV that has a fan creating vacuum under the car for more traction.... Came across this: https://www.gridserve.com/2024/02/12/the-fastest-accelerating-electric-cars-in-2023-to-get-the-pulse-racing/ The fastest trim of the pictured fat blob can do 0-60 in under 3 seconds.

Hmmm. I think that's going to be one for personal taste but I'm not keen tbh. It's shiny though. No getting away from that.

ICE vehicles will still be getting sold in the EU up to 2035 so 'in the next few years' is still over a decade away. Even after 2035, new ICE vehicles will still be getting sold as long as the engine can run on what's known as 'e-fuels' which are carbon neutral. And even then you'll still be able to buy ICE vehicles on the used market. Nobody's forcing people to buy new EVs currently or used ICE vehicles in the future. What the taxation and duty will look like on fossil fuels remains an unknown. https://www.sae.org/news/2023/03/european-ice-ban#:~:text=The EU agreed to permit,'

If anyone is considering replacing their windscreen wipers I can confirm that the Bosch A864S that fit the Karoq also fit the Kamiq.

I'd be suspicious of the charging if immediately after a good run it couldn't start. Even bad batteries would immediately start the vehicle. I note you did say no warning light was up while driving though. At the very least can you confirm the voltage on the battery when the engine is running, is it 13.5 to 14.5 volts. How old is the battery ? Has it been sluggish, slow turn over, with starting for a while ? Maybe I'm just being too cautious and not just immediately blaming the battery. Edit: just reread you say a couple of days after a long run. OK, in that case I would blame the battery. I've read lots of comments if you swap the same type of battery and Ah rating then coding is not so important. Get it done if you can but don't sweat too much if a similar like for like battery swap.

Yeah I have. Pretty straight forward to fit. Pretty much a case of take the old one off, fitting is reverse. There is a video on YouTube of an installation, it's in German but it gets the point across.

What a helpful post. It was simply a picture of the OEM screen fitted to my last car to illustrate. It was identical to the one fitted to my Golf GTI. They are a good safety benefit. By all means don't buy a VAG car with one if it offends your sensibilities. You stick to scraping ice and getting cold.

The CR2032 battery in the key fob has absolutely nothing to do with the immobiliser, the key fob can be considered as three separate devices, metal key, radio wave remote control for the central locking/alarm (convenience) system and transponder chip for the immobiliser in the instruments. This is a radio frequency chip which is inductively powered by the reader coil around the ignition switch. When it does not start, does it turn over, fire and immediately cut?

Car season is here again yay Got some bilstein b6 shocks fitted today The old shocks don't feel like they were doing much, I've not quite finished fitting the new ones yet so I have test driven it but I bet it's a big difference

@skoda2024 Welcome to the forum. Can you give a clue or just say what Dealership group this was from? The Dealer Principal and the Master Tech and Workshop Manager need to be checking which Tech or Fitter did your PDI and should then be out checking every other car they did PDI,s on o any work on. Not calling customers and cars in but putting their selves out and them being financially affected by their lack of supervision or training of employees.

Well Off Topic, but just this week i posted in the banter with @Graham Butcher issues when tech / communications goes down and McDonalds had issues. Today just Sainsbury's & Tesco. Orders, payments. But as mentioned in the news cash could be used. That is when tills can still operate obviously. As these Major Corporations & the likes of Banks have failings it is just a taster for the future when many more systems might go down more often. If it is ever the Utilities and electricity then it is traffic lights as well as filling stations, payment systems, ATM,s and almost everything that goes down.

I dont have paddles on mine (they didnt fit them for a while around 2021) AFAIK The left paddle drops down a gear each time its operated, the right changes up. You can also select manual mode by moving the gear shifter to the left. Whatever is happening the drivers information display should tell you the mode and gear in the top right. In manual it will show M followed by the selected gear, in normal it will show D and the gear and in Sport S and gear. So if its kicking down you should see the display change to show the new gear selected. If it doesnt kickdown but simply revs, then it could be clutch slip,,,

That turned out to be the case. No removal or cutting needed. Thanks for the replies, everyone!

EuroKNEECAP in "actually sensible decision" you mean?

Just for info and a sum up. I put two foam filter strips between both top corners of the digital dash and another between the bottom left corner of the right front vent, drove along the problem road and all very quiet. removed each one in turn, the two at the top of the dash were my main problem but the vent joint was making a slight noise. The filter foam can be compressed very small so used a very thin blade to push them in and they cannot be seen, problem solved. I do still have a slight problem under the passenger side facia but have seen other cures for that and is not a priority ATM. I also have a hearing aid it amplifies the higher frequencies, so I could have removed it to stop the problem!! Glad the info has helped.

Dead ends will be broken wires, unless you just mean apparently unused positions in the connector? It's surprisingly easy to remove the door entirely. Unplug connector, one XZN screw for the check-strap, two 13mm nuts one in each hinge. Would make access for repair massively better. Nearly did that myself last weekend on a Roomster, but there was only two busted wires, so I carried on in that horrible cramped space.

Yep, with mk2 Fabia and Roomster, always the most likely problem.

I don't know. What I know: I will put a layer of alubutyl and one of sound absorbing foam on top of it. The first prevents the hood from rattling, creating and amplifying noise like a speaker or a guitar body. To do so, it has to be well glued to the metal sheet. The latter to absorb as much noise as possible. I am unclear on whether neoprene would be similar to either one. Also, I mainly saw those on Amazon, I don't recall neoprene. Or maybe it goes with another name.

im thinking of debadging my car but im not sure the black letters complement the other black features or not, ive debadged alot of my cars but just wondering what peoples thoughts are on, my very poor paint skills to, go just karoq gone, or skoda and karoq gone or leave it original? has anyone else debadged their car?

xactly that. I paid nowhere near the 33k sticker price fo my Zoe, probably about three quarters of the price with the Government, Renault national and dealer discount and then there is the cheap 1.9% finance to with money having devalued by about a quarter since i got the car. With PCP I will choose whether I want to keep the car for the balloon payment or handed it back and it has been a great experience and Renault's data has been an underestimation in my experience as Renault has assumed climate set to 22C, as the fairer sex oft have it, as a bloke I usually have it at 20C and sometime lower and have the climate off completely and just the heated seat on which rarely gives me a range of less than 200 miles. The experience of running the Zoe EV has been pleasant and I have done well over thr 6k miles I PCP'd to do, if I retire not sure if I will do less or more miles as I will keep a second car, either the Arkana fo a while or a new Model 3 SR but that will not be as cheap if I cannot get it thou salary sacrifice. Driving an EV, even a cheap one like the Zoe, £280 a month for a 200-250 miles range car, with energy running costs of 2p a mile but claiming the 45p tax relief for the first 10k miles as i get no business mileage reclaiming but do get a petrol fuel card for my mild hybrid Arkana so near equal running cost as petrol effectively 30p a litre. But it is the wish to be environmentally friendly that drives choice of which vehicle to take in combination with range and easy of making the journey by pure EV or hybrid.

No letters, clean 😎

I agree, it has an ugly piano black thick plastic frame plus a secondary thick black border on the lcd itself, so real lcd area used is very small. And the frame extending beyond the sun shield is a very bad design..

But officer i needed access to the road at the end of the street............................... all comes down to the legal definition of access I guess ;o)

@wyx087I am going to find out how it is as the car charges and i go exploring at the Helix Falkirk & then at the Falkirk wheel just how it is as it is years since i had a folding bike for taking places in a camper van and it was rubbish. http://thehelix.co.uk I have 4 other e-Bikes of various kinds, Road, Hard Tail, Full Sus and Fatbike and they are great but very heavy when it comes to carrying them and i got rid of my 4x4 so they need to go inside the estate now. This folding e-bike is the best i have tried and it is really just for using at the seaside towns and maybe canal paths. (I have a few push bikes but never ride them any more and gave away a Fat Bike last week to a charity as it had just sat for a few years taking up space.)

Mine warms up within 10km easily. No mechanical issues so far but I've only travelled around 62,000km in it.

At first it seemed too empty looking, but after a while it started to grow on me... I'd certainly redo the test on a picture taken in the open, in soft light.

More engineering less marketing BS before it’s ready?

mk4 golf r32 brakes are still a great oem upgrade Apec disc and trw pads with oe fittings to the s3 hubs , 280mm rear disc upgrade coming soon once i re-paint the carriers.

Stick with the Octavia. Having test driven an Arteon (a TSI 190 version) they are big 'ol buses and very very thirsty on fuel. Remember you can also enable up via functions on your car and there are LOADS of updates you can do to improve things (e.g.virtual dashboard, automatic boot opening)...list is endless.

If u have the facelift Superb with Matrix Crystal lighting, then that bit lights up as the "Side Light". This is in addition to the fog lights cornering light function. This video explains and shows it clearly.

A few deer out the back again

As long as it has been serviced well and doesn't look like a complete shed then you should be all good.