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Actually the problem is problem ones not doing what they should. Ones working correctly are coming along the road and plenty of us have Matrix lights. Not all stupid.

I finally got round to testing my new spare wheel today (no blow out, just decided to swap the wheels and see how I got on). The main question I had was whether the cruise control would work or not and I'm very happy to report that it does indeed work perfectly. I didn't take it far, probably a total of about 5 miles and no more than about 50mph but no issues at all so I'll certainly feel a bit happier on my longer trips to mainland Europe knowing I have a spare that I can at least do a semi sensible speed at and use the cruise control. The Nexen all season van tyre I got is indeed non-directional so ideal as a spare, the tread seems more similar to me to that of a winter tyre than an all season. All in all, very happy with what I've got and it makes you wonder why Skoda don't fit it as standard. I find it rather disappointing that the only spare wheel option on the new Superb is a space saver whereas the new Passat which is effectively the same car is offered with a full size alloy spare as an option.

Okay, so it's not technically a car 🙄 But I spotted this little tonka toy at my local Mercedes this afternoon: And I want one 😎 (Quite possibly more than the A110 ) Gaz

Update and hopefully closure! I am clearly old school and acknowledge it publicly but this update is to make anyone else out there aware if they have the same vehicle or same system. @Breezy_Pete thank you for the PDF Eng Management System doc - makes sense and shows me how out of date I am with technological progress in the automotive world! Thank you to all other contributors! Nub of the issue - yes the old battery was shot (and replaced) and yes I have changed an alternator that I now don't think was necessary - my bad and expense - ouch! However, despite a number of other forums talking about 'no need to tell the system' when you change the battery - you DO. Once the system was informed about the new battery - done by a mobile diagnostic chap with his techno wizardry, the system is now charging perfectly well at idle etc. Failure to do this and your system will continue to charge your new battery at the same rate as your failing one which, although won't be evident, will screw your new one pretty quickly with no apparent signs through warning lights etc. Consider deactivating your start / stop if possible - apologies to the environment as it does also shorten your battery life somewhat, Moral is - accept that I am getting old and sometimes it is better to pay someone with the right gear and up to date knowledge than trying do it yourself! Best wishes to all and thanks again - now to manage telling the wife how much I've spent in the last week - oh boy!!!

For numerous reasons, like those the OP cites and others, I stopped using main dealers as soon as the 5 year warranty expired. Find a decent VAG specialist and stick with them.

Hyundai i30 (Law of averages says I'm gonna be right at some point ) Gaz

It always angers me to see the difference between a service and an extended scope service! For the nearly £100 price difference you get the following…. Wheels removed and brakes checked - I mean this is one of the first things that should be done on any vehicle a mechanic will be driving even if it’s not in for a service… it takes all of 2 minutes (without having to remove the wheels) Check/adjust drive belts - I’d love to find a Skoda tech and ask to see their drive belt tension checking tool - and adjustable tensioners haven’t been on vag cars for the last 25 years almost. Check/replenish manual gear oil - seen as most cars are dsg this is fairly moot and even then will very likely be a cursory glance at the gearbox for any leaks and a box tick. Seen as gearbox oil doesn’t just disappear either, offering to replenish it is all well and good when you’ve got a leak that needs fixing. check of final drive oil - will most likely be exactly the same as above and not include the haldex coupling which is arguably more prone to failure check suspension system - again, a glance at the underside which should be part of even the most basic service and if you’re lucky (and hopeful) a little pull, push and wobble to check for worn out suspension parts. check heating/air con - I very much doubt this is a full air con check involving pressure/weight testing or such (as they charge extra for this is a separate ‘aircon service’) and checking the operation of the heating again is a very basic check that should be part of every service lubricate door mechanisms - a lovely spray of white grease that within a few weeks will be blasted completely in dirt, but it is a visual to the customer that ‘we have done stuff to your car’ when in reality it doesn’t do much bar make a mess (except the bonnet latch which is fair to grease) that’s my rant over…. In a nutshell the ‘extended scope’ is the bare minimum that should be done on any service and charging £100 on top for it is an absolute con. in my opinion - a service should include all checks no matter what level and an oil and filter change. After this the additional service parts required either through time/mileage/request/dirty should be charged accordingly. That way you know a full check has been done and you know exactly what parts have been changed on your car.

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

Thank you for all your contributions. Wish you well and of course the door is always open. We all have to come and go at times. Many of the foundling 200 are gone. The odd one here still... no idea how you get rid of me, answers on a postcard please. @Thefeliciahacker if you really want to leave, please do check out your account closure options: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/settings/account-security/ You can of course leave your account in place, just in case you want to return, to read, if not reply. side note, We like to have farewell posts, sudden disappearances can lead to mostly unjustified rumours. Some-days you don't open the site, a week later you have not returned, a new micro habit forms. It happens, has for 20+years, will do for as long as we last

Admittedly last night, but holy hell! Sporty one.

Could be personal reasons that are nobody else's business or just a personal decision for any number of reasons but whatever it is there's never a need for justifications for whether someone posts or not, stays or goes, all is voluntary. As far as I've seen Andreas has always offered help to others regardless of any perceived level or expertise or not they appear to, or not, possibly have, or not. And has helped us even though we often disagree, always giving answer when asked. Life happens to all of us and at all ages.

I know there are many honest Skoda dealers out there so I don't want to tar them all with the same brush, but there is definitely some cowboy behaviour going on in terms of serious overcharging. Skoda would want to get their s*** together before it kills off all of the good will us loyal customers have.

@Dandesc you did ask for opinions. 😃 Which marker is it down to, the rain or TWI (Tread Wear Indicator)? Making any judgements from an imagine on a device is difficult and full of pitfalls I think. If your tyre is only worn on the outside markers you might ask why that is, is that common for your model and year or a fault of car or tyre, is the front tyre on the other side the same. You don't need tread for dry warmer road surfaces but if you drive in England you know even when this is the case it could soon change so then you might need tread to push the water away to get the 'rubber' to contact the road surface. For the aquaplaning you were going too fast for the circumstances, doesn't matter what number or where the needle was on the speedo but we all make mistakes and I'm certainly not a good driver. If the aquaplaning really wasn't your fault (really?) then you will want to change that tyre ASAP or find out what else was at fault. IIRC elsewhere 3mm is considered the minimum, and perhaps here if you have a sportscars, that measurement will upset many. 😆 And though many think tyres start at 8mm, or 7mm, some start at less. Best thing to do is measure the tread depth across the whole tyre with a gauge or whatever, avoid any unseen raised bits inside the tread that might give false readings, look at the tyre generally, all the thread and sidewall(s) and decide how worn it looks (to really check the whole tyre you really need the car in the air or wheel off the car). The following video has labelled sections and shows things like how to measure tread depth using a 20p coin and gauge and also other information. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB1D7iJOgE0 I think it depends on where and how you drive as to when, what depth, you should change your tyre (subject to the rest of the tyre being in good or reasonable condition). HTH. You may, or may not, want to report back with your measurements, findings, decision or resolve. Good luck.

So this week involved the final push for all the wiring! Bringing (almost) everything together and even getting some bits finally working. So to get started the entire dashboard had to come out - Ive done this too many times now that i can whip it out in under 2 hours The photos also show the sheer amount of wiring that was tucked behind the drivers footwell Once the dash was out it was a job of locating where all the wiring was going as well as adding the extra wires for things behind the dash So basically everything on the right side of the dash went to either left footwell to join the engine bay harness fuse box BCM everything in the right footwell went to either centre console fuse box BCM 5F radio Then the following was added behind the dash into the rat nest of wires power and ground for heated steering wheel USB hub HSD cables, power and ground Wireless charger harness which split to 5F, fusebox and to left footwell MOST cables from TV tuner to instrument cluster There was also a few wires to neaten up on my travels. So once all the wires were roughly draped in their needed final locations it was then a job of wrapping harnesses to secure all the wires and give it that OE look. Sadly didnt get any photos after this was all wrapped and secured but basically, it looked like no one was ever there. To show the extend of the modifications, the fuse box now gained an additional 9 fuses! A small side note but something that was on my list - everytime the car was started I was greeted by what can only be described as the car yawning at me - the grease on the heater direction flaps had dried out and caused as a squeaking sound almost. So the motors and gears came out, all grease was removed and relubricated with lithium grease. (Even with the entire dashboard out, some of these motors were near impossible to remove!) Back on track.... so all powers and grounds ran, all wires in their final locations, now time to terminate! A custom fakra to quadlock micro pin was created at the 5F unit which is a fancy way of saying, the outer braid had its own terminal and the inner core did too. This was for the 360 camera video feed to the 5F. A few wires were added to the gateway canbus wires as it was the easiest location to access them. A fakra connection in the centre console was added for the signal booster from the wireless charger HSD cables were ran to the rear of the centre console for the usb hub and the usb hub tucked under the centre console area 4 wires were added to the BCM - ventilated seat LINbus, wake up signal from charger, wake up signal from DCC module, heated washer jet power One of the hardest parts came next, 16 loose wires in the left footwell with nothing to connect to! The wires from the engine bay now needed to get to the left footwell and the access point is buried behind the complete heater assembly and behind the ABS module. Neither of these were coming out so i struggled for hours to run the wires and securely waterproof the OE gasket with my new wire feed. First picture shows where it was buried, second shows the wires now emerging. 16 wires, and a HSD cable. All 16 wires were then terminated male and female and the new red plug was added and connected (look factory enough for you?) the blue HSD connector was then terminated male and female and connected up. And this basically summed up the wiring! 4 days work 150 meters of loom tape roughly 530 meters of new wiring a lot of blood and sweat and what do we have to show for it.... well youll have to wait for the next post!

^^^how about telling us what the Tyres are, what size and what pressure you have them at?

Hello there been a new owner of previously unloved Octavia Estate. Have spent the last couple of days cleaning and servicing. Came out of a Mercedes E350 and to be honest I’m not missing it. Anyways here it is a day after acquisition.

Well, my Fabia has gone to the great scrappy in the sky. I now have a cheap Clio to keep me mobile until I find a good Fabia. Many thanks to all of you who offered such good advice over the last few years, I hope I can find a Clio forum half as good..

OK so the result is in... It a Seat Ibiza Excellence 1.0 110bhp in white with a few scrapes on the front bumper. Hence the closest in this competition of hire car bingo is @mac11irl as he did at least mention an ibiza even if he ultimately went for something else... Seems to pull OK, albeit with a bit of a judder when cold and is comfy enough but the sat nav is an absolute bloody nightmare... It seems to insist on offering me all the previous destinations it has been to and has already sent me to the wrong location from the one I asked for. I've done a factory reset and have managed to change the language to English so hopefully it'll behave tomorrow.

No it won't, screw your new battery that is, did that nonsense come from the guy that did the recoding?

yeah, same one for Octavia 3/Superb 3/Kodiaq/Karoq

That would still be no. That would be Skoda software, but NOT approved for YOUR car. And no Skoda dealership will ever do that. They are limited by the tools they have and by contracts with country distributor.

Bought the part in the link you sent mate, fitted in 10 mins, 20 mins to feed the pull cord through - works a treat! Cheers for the help! 👍 Part on the right - OEM £48 Part on the left - after market - £12 Identical parts! 🤷‍♂️

Wow, just read from start to finish, some excellent work, some very nice upgrades. can a heated screen be retro fitted to an Enyaq VRS?

There is no public or dealer database to get these details. If you give me your vin number ill find you the correct part number and also the build date of the car.

Cool very nice car Trev. Are you going to return the wheels to Silver?

Think I will advertise it myself rather than PX. I think someone who can work on it may well get another 12 months out of it. Its got to have parts worth having to someone if not. Will be sad to see her go shes been a good workhorse..

Based on your engine cover you have an EA888 gen 4 engine, chances are the intake pipe you purchased is for a gen 3 engine and id assume it is different to your gen 4 engine. The Gen 3 has a spur on the top side of the plastic elbow that goes into the turbo, this looks specific to the gen4, possibly a SAI system or a breather for the engine would be my guess.

Maybe give a Briskoda member a chance to take it even if for Spare and them breaking it. It must be worth at least double the 'Trade in offer', & I can imagine the person offering the p/x seeing them getting £600 + for it. I would be wanting at least that sort of money if there is a valid MOT.

Chinese whispers. Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

Have had my 1.5 SEL from factory in July 2021. Love it, quiet enough around town and motorways especially with the e-tec system working. Also can run on 2 cylinder mode to save fuel when engine operating conditions allow. Be sure to tune the vehicle performance on the Individual mode to make it best suit your requirements (Switches to normal at each Key on cycle but shortcuts make for quick change). Please make sure your running on SW 1941 otherwise glitches will disappoint the experience somewhat.

I think it’s important to emphasise that infotainment updates are only part of picture. Modern cars have multiple modiles that all control various aspects of the vehicle (Climate control / Tekematics / SOS systems / lighting etc). These all have their own firmware’s that cannot be update by the end user. Whilst I don’t believe Škoda are actually replacing hardware any more there are firmware updates that can apply to specific modules to ensure they are functioning properly and communicating correctly with the Infotainment system. An example is my SOS system constantly crashed and went offline which also had some odd consequences to my navigation system and would also freeze the Infotainment system on occasion. The solution was that the Telematics Module needed a Firmware update to resolve this - simply updating the Infotainment software would not have solved that particular issue. Regarding jumping from 1896 to 1969 - instinctively I am inclined to agree with @TheWanderer and do it in two stages. Possibly you could do it in one update but until someone can confirm that’s okay then why take the risk?

AG Falco, the Blandford wizard, scanned the system last Saturday, & took the opportunity to disconnect the smart wire from the negative terminal, so rendering the vehicle as 'normal'. I have had a week of using the cd player, which has behaved normally. Neither I am happy to say have I experienced those bongs. Thank you Brian. If you favour a particular Pub or similar you must let me know. I owe you a drink or two.

the 2.0tsi had issues with coolant being pushed up the wiring looms tourags had issues with oil being pushed up wires vauxhalls had issues with oil pressure switches failing and pushing oil into the ECUs Its not an unheard of thing so dont ignore it. It should be bone dry and have no oil or fluids of any kind in it. Above the connector is a breather, but there is no valve or anything to allow oil to escape, and if the DSG was that overfilled to allow this, then it will need draining and measuring to confirm if this was the case. Seen as all filling is done from the bottom and the filter is on the rear side, there is no reason for oil to be spilt anywhere near the connector.

Typo by me. Should have said MIB2 can't do wireless which you confirmed.

Unfortunately, they will. I bought some of the cheap clones on ebay in ‘21. As others have said, they were slightly too small, but I gently pulled the side lugs out with a pair of needle pliers and they’re fine. Yes, the chrome has become dull over the last 3 years but they haven’t bubbled-up on the edge like the OE units did. They were so cheap, I bought three sets; that reminds me, I really must change them over.

The wisdom seems to be to avoid downloading to an Apple Mac due to the way that the OSX operating system creates invisible files which makes sense. I downloaded to a Windows PC and unpacked the downloaded Rar file using the free application 7Zip: https://www.7-zip.org/ Format your media to ExFat and copy the unpacked files (should be two folders and a file) and look something like this. Finally, if you are not confident in doing the manual update yourself then I would just wait for the OTA update to make its way to you. It's not like there is any new functionality so the "If it Ain't Broken...." adage is appropriate. I have read that those using Android Auto have had issues with version 1941 so possibly this update fixes these but as I am an Apple person I can't comment so will leave that to Android users to report back on.

T25 and T45 Most have the half tray only so no rear screws to deal with.

That particular one was I believe a Tesla, but VW group have the same version of their touchscreen in ICE and EV, so it’s not just an EV problem. It’s a bean counter problem.

Ooh I like that... Very neat!

Already converted the boot to manual from its powered struts as they weren’t working, kindly supplied the kit to do so from previous owner. Might try and get it working again in the future but I’ll see how much it bothers me powered strut Manual with wiring grommet blanks

This is the one I have. It is linked to Garmin Mini 2 which works flawlessly.

Sadly that variable charging voltage is exactly what you should expect from the alternator in a VW group car with start/stop, so you probably just scrapped a working alternator. The voltage varies to try to match supply and demand on the system. When the new battery was fitted, was the car's battery monitor module re-coded to 'know' about the change?

The 12V sockets in the front and centre consoles of my Karoq are working. I've recently put a new 20A fuse into socket 40. However the rear 12V socket in the boot does not work. Also the flashlight next to it has never charged. Does anyone know if they are on a different fuse? Thanks

Christ, an EVERYTHING thread! Hurts my eyes looking at all the rampant speculation in there... In all the years I've worked on engines, on everything from the 1960's onwards there were always engines which had been driven far too gently early in their lives which drank oil badly. In fact I had one, a little old lady's 1.4 16V Fabia which was terrible. The only thing that fixed it was ruthless spanking for thousands of miles until the piston rings wore down enough to start sealing properly. It's quicker and easier on turbo engines because of the higher cylinder pressures on full boost. Either keep the car and start spanking it or throw it back where it came from and ask for a refund. If I had a penny for every time this happens I'd have a few Bob by now but it bears repeating: NEVER buy a low mileage car, it's ALWAYS better to buy a high mileage car in immaculate condition with a full history.

All trims were replaced with genuine including window and rubber seals, mud flaps , roof channels , windscreen trims , door trims , bumper trims , headlamps, indicators including none vrs side repeaters as i prefer them as they match the headlamps and taillights , new front and rear badges but not the octavia one as not a fan , cz stubby mirror adapted on drivers side base , new old stock headlamp protectors etc as well as some milotec parts (front bumper corner splitters and rear diffuser which i fitted on a 2001 rear bumper as it is a slightly different shape to the 2002 onwards item). The r32 Konig seats are getting the vrs white centres trimmed into them too (pics to follow). Mk4 aero wiper arms and dab oe style roof antenna and genuine skoda motor sport plate surrounds.

£920 is an OK price on a 1.5 TSI ACT for the time / labour and Original Parts used and 2 year warranty including labour when at an Approved Repairer. (That does not include a water pump.) Cheaper prices elsewhere might not be OEM parts or places quoting on a 1.5 TSI ACT and just on a 1.5 TSI. Some might not only not have 'All the gear' but also 'No idea'.

Continuously variable transmission https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission Hope this helps

Heh. Never mind… not an issue anyway, as Apple backtracked without being forced to for once! https://www.macrumors.com/2024/03/01/apple-walks-back-decision-to-disable-eu-web-apps/

Is the lever with the key in locked in that position? And the key locked in the lever? If so, it's fine, that's how it should be and when you insert the tow hitch the lever pops up and you can turn the lock and remove the key

Lift off oversteer combined with a slimy road is my guess.