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Maybe there is no reason not to with a DQ200 0AM . Different with wet clutch DSG,s. Just do it, what is the worst that could happen?

You’ll love it. Put it this way, in over 30 years of driving everything from Audi to Peugeot to BMW etc this is the first time I’ve ever replaced a car with exactly the same model and spec. Love it.

^^^ Good. Seemingly now 80% of them have these now.

To give Peugeot credit, they kept me informed about this inconvenient matter and reduced my expected bill by 15% as well as dropping my car off outside my house just now. The service manager brought it back in person, which was quite nice. Driven car around the block and it seems OK. One surprising thing that the service revealed is my rear tyres are wearing faster than my fronts. Maybe I should stop handbrake turning my car into parking spots?

Lots of pics over the last couple of days, so I'll post when I get a spare moment. The Royal Mail package from lllparts was not exactly what I was expecting: For whatever reason, I had a moment of madness and thought "ooh this could be a nice retrofit". So got some buttons which replace the 3 with a massage symbol. With some further swotting on this forum, it looks like I'll also need to get a specific seat control module and then some coding, so not super straightforward. Was £28.49 from eBay. Will keep it in my box of back burner things. This also arrived: For all intents and purposes, the other side of the rear seats from the Octavia that I got a few days ago. This was £63.38 with free delivery, so a little annoying considering the smaller one was £20 to deliver. A quick check: There is a similar looking thing like the other side, so a spring of some sort on this side, which again probably also means that part of the seat frame is different from the one currently used. Lastly: Got a flap wheel from Amazon for £6.99 for a drill. I wasn't brave enough to get one for the angle grinder, as I can't shake the feeling I'd do some major damage with it. I'd probably still need one eventually if I ever brave getting the chassis underside to bare metal for Epoxy Mastic. But not today. So got the two caliper/pad carriers out in the garden and attacked it with the drill: Wasn't expecting perfection, didn't have the patience to get everything to bare metal, and some of the nooks weren't reachable with the flap wheel. Gave them a quick wipe over with some panel wipes: Then spent about 45 minutes giving them a coat: I used some E-Tech caliper paint, which I used for the GR86 as part of the first things done on the car (alongside the suspension bolts). It's a hell of a lot easier to paint with calipers in situ and actually squeaky clean! These took a bit more effort around the rusty bits, with the cleaner areas easier, which is kind of obvious really. Nice weather is promised over the next few days, so left the carriers outside to dry. In a year or two's time, I'll be replacing most of the brake components, so will probably take these to a professional outfit to properly blast and coat, but for now, this will more than do. Next post will be attacking that rear seat! Maintenance: £2004.02 Upgrades: £1158.66 (+£91.87) Miscellaneous: £659.06 (+£6.99)

I have been a VAG mechanic for 42 years, in that time I think I have replaced less than 100 ECU's and most of those have been EDC 16 and 17 Diesel units suffering from water damage BUT there is always a first time. Your car is actually a 2011 model year and the ECU 03C 906 027 CE retails at £1182.60 inc. VAT BUT there is no UK stock and it is likely to go obsolete if ordered.

Jackanory, Jackanory...

Sounds like the updates have gone through today. I can remote access the car again, which is positive. They are ringing back in a short while to let me know what's going on

@Lady ElanoreSome of the members in the Mk4 Octavia section with issues have had other Skoda, same in the Superb Mk3 section. They problems are not only with the PHEVS. Not always the ICE being the problem. Software sadly. The thing VW Group took in-house and ball-sd up. As usual VW dealt first where it was VW,s having the faults, needing actions taken.

I consider that proper use of swearing only comes with old/older age, it is definitely then as the world seems to be out to get you/me that it is really needed! Flare nut spanners really should be used when connecting up pipes like at the ABS block, nowadays, I always "crack" the bleed nipples using a deep hex socket, and if I feel the need, the same when giving them a final slight "nip up". Really small bleed nipples worry me when I come across them, as said already they are keen to shear off. An aside comment:- I bought a "re-manufactured by Pagid" Lucas/TRW rear RHS brake calliper for my wife's 2015 VW Polo as the original RHS had seized up, bought it via Halfords, it looked well re-manufactured ie back to original condition. So, I had the idea to catch the rear LHS before it started seizing due to moisture ingress, so bought another Pagid one from Halfords - this one, at some time in its life had ended up with a stripped bleed nipple thread, so the M10 hole had been opened up to M12/M13 and a threaded repair insert had been fitted, but its internal thread was M7 or M8 so I was ending up having one small bleed nipple on that car - in the end after a lot of huffing and puffing, I just handed it back to Halfords quoting "not re-manufactured back to original state" and added that I don't think that Pagid, or however Pagid uses to re-manufacture brake callipers are qualified to change any part of a safety related product. Halfords said that they couldn't guarantee that the next one they supplied me would be any better! Plan B is to, when the warmer weather turns up, remove the still okay rear LHS calliper, remove its piston and polish it and fit a new score seal and dust cover. So, thanks Pagid, you've forced me to actually service my own brake callipers to avoid them ending up seized - and I've even bought some new aluminium banjo bolt sealing washers - in case they are needed!

tht grid fee is £5000 per charger, per year

Avoiding a car ever having to visit the dealer is a superb thing to aim for. It's not by chance that people who do their own repairs and servicing have much less stress in their lives. Tesla recognises that any interaction with the dealership bull****tery carries a high probability of dissatisfaction and its the manufacturers reputation that gets tarnished. Main dealers do not want to do repairs, servicing or warranty work but are obliged to do so, all they want to do is sell finance, the vehicle being the vehicle to do so (see what I did there!). For many a visit to the main dealer for a problem during warranty is the beginning of months or even years of grief especially if they are locked into a lease, the dealers just carry on with the "leave it with us and we will pretend to have done something" shenanigans in the hope that the customer will lose the will to live, most do, eventually the car gets returned or sold and the owner is put off that make for life. Look how many of those vehicles with unresolved problems end up on these pages, recent low mileage cars that have had 5 or more owners being sold, thrown back and punted on through the trade. Probably 50% of the vehicles I have owned have been these problem cars that dealers sell to me as a last resort, the fault is always a simple one given time and thought, most of the time it was caused in the first place by the dealers. Tesla are onto a real winner here, car dealerships will be fighting to sell their vehicles and in time the public will be fighting to buy them.

Finally the long range TESLA some of us yearn for ie bigger battery but just the single motor for the rear wheel. Welcome 400 mile WLTP range as well as pretty impressive acceleration...

So the Dublin dealer has not investigated the water ingress issue any further? Are you now waiting for the outcome of tests VAG will undertake on the oil? Is that what the dealer told you they’d do? I ask as I’d be a bit sceptical on that one! You said in your original post it is booked in with your local dealer, so are DMG aware of the issue? Either way, I’d be making a huge fuss about it, because at best it could leave you stranded at the roadside and at worst, you could suffer an engine seize and a potential accident as a result.

Well done. As I used to try to explain to my wife some things on a car just won't fit unless you swear at them. She tells everyone that when I do this I only use four swear words but I use them in rapid repeats, which is true. All my neighbours know not to approach me if I'm working on one of our cars but I will happily stop and talk if I'm doing (small, easy) jobs on my neighbour's car - and I've never like VWs (except Golf GTi Mk1). You posses some fabulous delicate precision instruments known as your hands and fingers, use those where you can before using other tools, and use manual tools in preference to power tools where you can. For work and diagnosis also use your touch, eyes, ears, nose (even taste sometimes but beware) often these can tell you stuff the computers can't - but also use your own computer, your brain, especially to confirm anything a computer tells you. Brakes are a very dirty business but you want to keep things clean whilst working on them. Once you've opened a bottle of brake fluid don't keep any remaining too long, once you know for sure you don't need any for top up from this job dispose of the unused fluid along with the drained/spilt fluid. I only put tonight that this is the 21st century yet we have to put up with this nasty stuff for brake fluid mainly because it's so cheap for the car manufacturers and car trade to use, ancient technology in the same way as the internal combustion engine.

@Bap33 Thanks for above guide, make my life easier. In my case (MY2019 - only driver's seat with memory) 5F have not been needed to be modified as Seats settings has been already visible and includes "Store seat position - Vehicle key activated" option and for CU 36 initial value of Byte 9 has been 84 instead of 82 (what I can see in any other guide) So once Bit 6 has been changed to 1 Byte 9 got a value of C4 not C2. The effect was Access aid appeared in Seats settings but seat did not move even option was enabled Once value of Byte 9 has been modified to C2 seat moves but Store seat position disappeared I use only one key so I don't miss this option but I try to understand if those are mutually exclusive or there is any configuration to get them both. Any ideas?

I had the same problem in 2021 and it's a mystery as to how it happened as the problem was that the bracket on the front radar cover was broken (as suggested by ApertureS). I didn't hit anything and the message appeared as I was driving north up the A470 around Merthyr Tydfil after leaving the Cyfarthfa Retail Park. There were no other vehicles nearby and there was no sound of hitting anything in the road. In the retail car park, there's a section I always chose where the spaces are a bit wider and away from the area where most other shoppers park. It's a single row and I park in forwards to make loading the boot easier. The front is facing a small grass verge and then a hedge and there was nothing near the front of the car to damage it. If it was damaged prior to this, could it have worked for a while until the unit moved sufficiently to stop working? There's no sign of any damage on the front. It's possible it could have been kicked on the front by some yob in Cyfarthfa with nothing better to do as it was keyed on the rear nearside door in that car park about 7 years ago. I took the car to Sinclair Skoda in Swansea and they replaced the bracket and calibrated the front assist so it's all back as it should be. They charged £60.00 for the initial diagnostic and £36.00 for replacing the bracket and the calibration, so it cost me a lot less than I thought it would. They charged for only half the diagnostic fee as they found the problem without running the full test.

Experiment no.2 - record a noisy sparrow and play it back to him: IMG_9193.mov Mr Sparrow was not amused and got quite intense 😂 I did wonder if he might come down for a scuffle, but I seem to have gotten away with it. G

I need suggestions on how to keep mice out of my engine bay. They had created a food store on the engine block and tasted the outer sheath on some of the wires. Fortunately nothing serious. Car is parked outside all year. Garage said it was not unusual for them to see mouse damage to wires.

Yes its the list price when new. So I'm am ignoring any pre-reg cars that had a list price over £40k because that continues to affect the VED until the car is over 6 years old. I keep my cars for at least 10 years, so the extra VED is significant. Electric cars will attract the Additional VED rates now, which is going to be a shock for some.

That's surprising, I messed up bleeding a 2007 Roomster and let the reservoir run dry. The pedal felt terrible after a then normal bleed. It sunk right down on engine start. I had to do a VCDS ABS Bleed to restore the pedal high up as before.

I have read on here suggestions that it is so. But @Carlston will know the scores on the doors and what is what for the UK.

Yeah, but EVs do it ugly.... real ugly!

Or would it work but at a fixed speed ;o)

Yes I know that hence my question as that is exactly the problem I had. Battery appeared ok but wasn't when actually put to use trying to turn the engine over...

Welcome. Worth doing a Google / Search.

My issue is, there is not a EPS light i know of on a Mk2 Fabia vRS from 2010 - 2014. My issue is RAC people talking sh!te. Look in this section from 2010-2024 a see just how many ECU failures there have been. Lots of Mk2 vRS owners and cars have been here in the 14 years. There are less than 3,000 of the cars in the UK. Then the Audi, VW & Seat Twinchargers. ECU failure very rare. There were 3 outer cover ECU,s 2009-2012, then 2 different after that. Locked ones, and ones with security bolts and ones without. We had to open to remap. Some were wrecked or cooked by idiots.

Won't be seeing the Tesla chap until the next footie season and the Kia owner had a list of woes so long I'd have to get him to write them all down. If it had been my car, I would have returned it as not up to spec. I honestly reckon that all the people I know reasonably well, who own EVs, have had major problems within the first couple of years. I've never known such problems with ICE owners. It definitely feels like we are all Beta testers. I can't think of any acquaintances that own regular Hybrid cars having issues, though. But that would be understandable with the lower voltage and complexity, of the cars.

Important changes coming to payments / accounts. Action required to maybe save issues when the change over happens. Arrived in my Junk Mail.

I may redo mine if I ever get the abs light sorted I love my little car but over a grand for a new pump is ridiculous 🙃.

Remanufactured/refurbished/reconditioned - all depends on the state the original unit was in when sent in for work, who does the work, how well and how many times it might have been through the cycle. I had a car that used lever arm dampers (unfortunately they weren't the same ones as used on contemporary London Taxis at the time) and recon ones were very cheap to buy, which was enough of a warning really but lots of people and garages bought them and fitted them, and I think for recon they probably got little more than a wipe over and respray and perhaps fresh (cheap as possible) oil in but I'd not be surprised if even that was missed out, then re-con price, retail supplier's uplift and VAT. I'm sure some were worse condition that the worn dampers they replaced. 20 years later I saw the same dampers were being sold, bit higher prices but not by that much and people were still buying them.

Wow thanks, that video looks really helpful.. I have gt85 for the bike, so will go give it a go.

Manufacturers are now copying Tesla. If you buy a new Enyaq you buy it from Skoda direct. The dealer is just a conventient location you go to when it's time to collect the car. The dealer gets paid an admin fee. My experience of owning a tesla for 14 months was enough to put me off for life. A poorly built car riddled with faults and Tesla couldn't give a toss once I'd paid them. In 14 months it was back more than 14 times. I spent as much time in old dirty model S loan cars than anything else.

there's ionity at Stranraer and new ultra rapids going in soon at Cairnryan. On Skoda you need to be below 15% to get the fastest charge. People who fill up before then need to put their big brave pants on 😉

How do you know?

6.5x17" rim with 205/55 tire is the smallest approved tire for the mk4 TSI RS Octavia with 340mm brake discs. These are homologation approved dimensions from factory:

Ours never has ... and we use E10 whenever possible

DMG didnt sell the Car, I went back to Dealer in Dublin that car was purchased off and they have sent all of to VAG. Oil checked every couple weeks

Pad wear indication, I think.

It might depend on what the Ctek means or interprets as full, then it depends on how long the battery holds this charge or if something about the car is messing with or messing up the battery. If the battery is too low in charge and charged too quickly it won't accept the charge or will show a full too early due to surface charge, I prefer to use my 1.8 amp charger but it does take a long time, could be up to about 60 (six, nought) hours if seriously flat, say below 5v at start but I've done from less than 3v but I'd not necessarily trust the battery for car use for long at that low and not a more modern Germany marque. Something I missed before is that you put the battery as Exide 70amp EFB I thought VW went over to Banner Batteries but perhaps they changed supplier contract again. Which diagnostics equipment, Dealer scan tool or VW battery load tester (with print out?)? Same for Dealership, If the battery is too low in charge and they charge it too quickly it won't accept the charge or will show a full too early due to surface charge they should know this and be using the correct appropriate equipment - but . . .

Have OBDEleven, does some basic things, but to do adaptions it's subscription based. I'm going to keep it for quick code reading if out and about as connects to mobile. But going to get vcds for at home, as the yearly subscription for obdeleven would soon exceed it.

CO2 is neither measured at, nor relevant to MOT. CO, carbon monoxide, is measured at MOT against limits on petrol cars only, and is often muddled with CO2, carbon dioxide by folk on forums.

Hope it goes well, up to your tactics with the dealer now 🙈

according to the hand book (for the Superb although I would have thought the Octavia is the same) the answer is yes & no

It's something very small, like 7 or 8mm Natalie, off the top of my head. Very easy to shear off, I know from experience.. I think it's the very thin metal, plus the difficulty of avoiding putting any bending force onto it while working semi-blind round the back of the drum there.

My Yeti was 11mm. But am I missing something here, what size spanner ? Whatever size fits, I often make a look at guess, often close but I just grap the next size up or down as necessary. Do that with spanners and sockets to use the one that fits. I must be misunderstanding the question.

I've been doing important stuff this afternoon Challenge no.1 - get a hoverfly and tortoise in the same photo: Task completed ✅ Gaz

Spotted my first Duckling of the year earlier..... 20240402_185125~2.mp4

@Purpletom Did you try the coding I added for the heated wheel button. This has to be dine prior to installing the adapter. I have been talking to a Russian guy that makes these and he says it doesn't matter which version of the adapter you have i.e basic or full, as the button is operated by the coding only. To get it to work for you now, you need to remove the lin adapter, plug everything in without it. Then do the coding, once coded plug the lin adapter back in again and it should all work.

Hello. I installed everything and everything works.