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I watch tool videos. Ones filmed by Lee & Geoff.

Had another quick bash with the new camera. Only got 100mm glass with me so have to make do with a longish focal length for everything including landscapes which aren’t my strong point.

To follow this up I have this working quite well now using this set of instructions. https://core-electronics.com.au/guides/detect-speed-raspberry-pi/ I did upgrade to a Pi 4b with more memory. It's taken some tweaking but it is producing pretty reliable results now. In contact with the community council initially to see what can be done with the data. One of our regular little neds - The red box is the detection area. The green box is the object detected. the green box doesn't always surround the car sometimes it picks up on a part, or lights for instance. the system doesn't detect cars as such, it detects moving objects and tracks the object through the detection area comparing frames. It has some known values taken from a reference calibration image which it useses to calculate the speed.

4 RS TDI. It does turn off start/stop immediately when you press ignition button.

I agree it looks like a faulty battery but the same condition can appear with a good battery if there is a poor connection (including earth) anywhere between the battery and the starter. Look for corroded crimps and signs of black copper where the cable(s) is crimped and obviously, loose connrctions. When you attempted to start, did the starter turn over? If not then look at the small wire going to the starter motor.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Considering the vehicle is not in motion, I suspect the ASR fault report may be a red herring. I suggest getting a check done for any fault codes.

Welcome to the forum. I doubt the Technician / Fitter can show were it is what Skoda recommend to set such a low Service Interval. The Garage / Technician should ( can) have set the Service Indicator @ 9,400 miles / 372 days. What an odd thing to do. Then it is annual. If that is only 3,200 miles covered in the year and a week then so be it. Strange to set it by what was done up to the service, or at less miles than a Fixed Service regime.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It depends on your annual mileage and whether your vehicle is on fixed or flexible service plan. If your annual mileage is Low (much less than 10K per year) it is normally recommended to change oil annually - (fixed)

Re the repeating thing. I am watching 'Fifth Gear Recharged', i do get feed up of VBH and the other telling people that if you fast charge it takes such and such time from 20-80%. People suck it in and might not understand they might be talking with a 100 kW or 100kW plus charger. Seldom are the vehicles they are discussing going to be doing anything like that on a 50 kW DC Charger.

I've installed it today, works like a dream

Turned out lovely once the rain stopped!

Hey Vlad, Thank you for your nice welcoming ! I am a petrolhead since childhood and owned some very different kind of cars let say. Owned a BMW e60 530D (Incredible engine, super comfy but without M chassis it was not sporty at all), then I had a Ford Fiesta ST 182hp for more than 8 years and I just loved it: not great for the comfort but driving it was a real pleasure, the ones who owned this car will know what I mean. Then when time came to replace it, I was asking myself what will be the next one? I was looking for a mix of both of my previous cars but with a maximum of boot space etc. Started by looking at Octavia VRSs (from 2017/less than 100k km on the odo) but wanted to have a 4WD and diesel is not an option as I do a lot of small trips. Then found that the Superb 2.0 280 was a great candidate and price-wise really close to the octavia vrs prices. Recently found a Superb combi with the 2.0 280 in Sportline trim with the DCC and a lot of extras so quite happy. It is quite an upgrade regarding the power, comfort, room space and equipment but I really hope it will feel sporty enough even though it is much bigger and heavier than the Fiesta ST. As soon as I have some feedbacks, will be happy to share them ! ps : on the side I also own a Mercedes 320CE from 1993, I do not drive it enough but cant make up my mind to sell it. Fred.

One thing I've mulled over for well over a year finally happened last month. . exhaust was changed to a fully non-resonated gpf back custom built system. i did loads and loads of research before having this done, and the general consensus to get any kind of noise from the newer gpf equipped cars was remove everything. . . Well I regret it like crazy, outside the car sounds nice, deep but not too loud. . Inside is horrendous, at idle it is genuinely louder inside than it is outside. It's got a very deep drone at "normal" driving rpm's -1800-2200ish. It's even been back and had a box put in just before the rear axle, which has toned it down between 2500-4000rpm, but below 2500 is still horrendously droney, it's really making me dislike driving the car for general driving - if you drive it with a heavy foot it sounds wicked,over runs burbles n all that, but it has ruined day to day life in it. Myself and a friend and going to fit some helmholtz resonators towards the back and see if it helps, if not ill probably have to have the rear section rebuilt with a twin box setup again. This one had been an expencive mistake. 👎

For what its worth here is how I got on with the providing power to my Next Base Dashcam. I intended to use one of the NextBase hardwire kits - either Piggy Back into fuse box or the OBD port. Initially I went down the fusebox route; finally getting the glovebox off to get access to the fusebox, partially removing the side panel with the Airbag switch in it. I decided to go with the OBD power lead for the following reasons; the routing for the lead to the Dashcam is the same for both (up behind the 'A' pillar, along the top of the screen behind the headlining, but access on the drivers side where the OBD port is is much better and also doesn't require messing with the side panel with the Airbag switch, additionally the OBD port kit doesn't require finding and earthing point. Under the steering column there is a mini glovebox this is easily removed and provides access behind and above the OBD port - I left some slack on the lead from the OBD port so that the inline fuse was accessible by removing the mini glovebox. A note about removing and refitting the side panel - one side is fitted behind the rubber door seal, the other curved side has 4 or 5 clips that push into the dashboard. Removing is simply a matter of prizing the clips out and then sliding the panel up 10 mm before lifting it out from behind the rubber door seal. Refitting wasn't quite as easy I ended up getting all the clips lined up with their respective holes, pushing them in with the other side sitting on the rubber seal, then using a plastic trim tool the rubber seal i eased over the edge of the side panel. Putting the side under the rubber seal first seemed to prevent the clips from aligning with the holes.

Thanks Killie Boy here, so East Ayrshire. Originallynmoved up here when I married the Wife

SmartLink is cable only. For wireless you need to buy another adapter such as AAWireless, currently £69.99 on Amazon. I can recommend this as your phone connects without issues.

So I splashed out £83 on an OBDeleven NextGen Pro which arrived today. Needed the Pro to enable the adaptations I think. 10 mins and Androidauto is working (and Carplay) - many thanks for the video link above @bigade1, much appreciated! Only seems to work when phone is plugged in with a USB cable, not Bluetooth, but wasn't really expecting BT to work. Now I have another year of messing around to see what else I can change (or not...). The OBDeleven app seems good, quite impressed with what it does!

Loving the title of the post . Bumber in the urban dictionary is a lover of boobs so am wondering what a woman with rear boobs would look like 😂

Absolutely agree with you there

Looks the same, I did not check for any errors, there is nothing on the dash and everything is fine, I had like 10 journeys today without any problems. You connect the cable between original cable and the socket as in the picture above. You remove cable with pink connector release, plug in cable there and plug original cable into new cable.

As an aside, you don't have to warm the engine to suck out the oil using a pump, it isn't really necessary these days at all in fact because modern synthetic oils are so thin when cold.

I did this on my 2011 estate, looked good to me, I had dodgy patches on the old ones and considered dynamic a good replacement Edit -

Hello and thanks for the reply, The car is 41000 miles, I do aprox 4000 miles a month as I use it for taxi business, I was quite shocked when told that skoda recommends 3200 miles oil and filter service ( which I couldn't believe) so in this case I should change the oil and filter every three weeks? Lol

In that case, oil change and brake fluid is all you need doing

It might be an idea to post your question in the Superb III area, rather than in the Forum How To section - not a lot of footfall down here, but it'll get much more attention in the Superb section Gaz

As per other users, my brand new, March 2024 built and delivered Karoq SEL had serious connection (rapid disconnection) issues with wireless Android Auto, The car came with MIB3 software version 0324 which is still listed as the latest version. I was advised by Skoda that an OTA update to version 0330 should be available - but after waiting a few weeks and being impatient, I downloaded the update myself with guidance from mib-helper.com and then mibsolution.one and installed using a memory stick in the USB C socket.. I can confirm that Android Auto now connects wirelessly and stays connected with version 0330.

@wyx087 Geez there sure are a load of numpties about if they fell for such an obvious piece of BS as https://www.lse.ac.uk/granthaminstitute/news/daily-mail-admits-making-up-story-about-electric-vehicles-causing-potholes/ is the real cause of potholes. There are increasing numbers of private cars on the roads these days that weigh more than EV's do, and simply oodles of larger, far heavier vehicles as well. These are kind of people that politicians love as they can themselves get away with almost anything and tell those folk what they like because they know that they will simply believe them as it less work to believe everything that the authorities tell them, then it is to work things out and do research for themselves.

Keep watching channels like Mr Porterfield or Kate and James. The Youtube algorithm works in not so mysteries ways, not too different to Daily Fail.

but don't toss that comfort module, i had recently simmilar issues (depends where rust corodes the contacts ) i just gave the harness side and comfort module pins goooood clean and scrape off the rust particles....sealed everything in grease ( non conductive ) and put it all back together, works as new

Thought I'd post a link to this cautionary tale from @vrs'burks. Be careful what you wish for, especially when it's "More noise."

https://www.lse.ac.uk/granthaminstitute/news/daily-mail-admits-making-up-story-about-electric-vehicles-causing-potholes/ Surprise, surprise, public opinion is being manipulated.

@Dranny Generally with a lease car you can hand it back few days early and avoid having to do the service. The lease rules normally say it can be showing a service countdown advance warning reminder (due in X days or Y miles), but not Service now or Service. The basis is must be serviced when due, if not yet due then don't have to have done a service prior to handback.

10900 isn't 109K

So, new ballast and a brand new pair of nightbreakers came in and had them fitted over the weekend 👌 The car was equipped with standard Osrams before. I installed one bulb at a time so I would have the opportunity to drive in the night once with two different bulbs and tell the difference. The nightbreaker bulb is indeed brighter and from a distance it has a purple ish tint. As for the install, I spent 30 mins on the right side ballast by easily moving the fuel filter canister out of the way and an outrageous 1.5 hours on the right side bulb and almost 3 hours on the left side bulb... The right side bulb I managed to fit the metal clips back together via the tight gap behind the headlight. For the left side bulb I gave up after 2 hours of breaking my hand inside through the gap behind the headlight and decided to turn the wheel max left and remove the Inner Wheel arch plastic just enough to fit my hand through there only to realise it took 1 min to fit the bulb this way... I suppose you would remove the wheel normally but I do not have a jack stand or anything to lift the car so I gave this a try with success. There are in total about 16 torx screws you need to remove for this and this is for only half of the wheel arch. Nevertheless, it is possible and that's what I will be doing next time if need be.

The noisy top mount has recurred and the car is now booked in for yet more diagnostics - hoping for a permanent fix this time🤞

Remove the cover.

Yup, I agree that part/area will insure correct insertion depth and correct orientation.

The update worry is the reason I haven't fitted "nice to have" things like auto opening and closing frunk. I do have "S3XY" buttons (https://enhauto.com/) because some things still need a quick button press (also enables more features, like OBD11 I had with VAG). That gets just as often firmware upgrades as the car itself, it keeps pace with OEM changes. Charge limiter. See "Charge Settings" here: https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/modely/en_us/GUID-BEE08D47-0CE0-4BDD-83F2-9854FB3D578F.html I always automatically plug in, takes less than 1s. Home Assistant automatically sets it to 50%. If I need the car next day, I would tweak limiter to try to arrive home at 40-45%, lots of spare range for unplanned errants. So in the morning, the car always have at least 100 miles of range in any weather. Never stress the battery far from the ~50% range and perfectly stores the battery for some days I don't use the car. For example, I charged to 70% last night for visit Hampton Court Palace gardens (free weekend). It was either 20 odd miles N Circular or 40+ miles via M25. Arrived home with 54% because drove via shorter route, plugged it in as habit, nothing will happen tonight but I can tweak charge limiter later in bed if needed. For simplicity, you can set car to always charge to 75%. Every day you know you have ~200 miles in the morning. Then up the limit if plan to travel more than 100 miles. Really simple, zero range anxiety, zero brain power required. With Leaf. It doesn't have as good charge limiter. So instead of charging 80% to 100%, I had to do some forward planning and as you pointed out, not good to automatically plug in every day. But now with V2H, evening uses up 30-40% of the battery. With day time use, can simply charge to 100% every day.

Update on o2 sensor just take air filter and etc out lol

I’d be looking at the condensation, removing the light and drying it, checking any breather holes are clear and seals are ok and putting it back to test myself.

No need to replace, try to reflash it. What is the current software version?

Used this one, very comfortable if you ask me 😉

So a few further updates: Areaview fully coded and 'working The coding for areaview is actually really straight forward, the hard part is the hardware and wiring. Gateway - Install list - Add 6C (same as reverse camera) Parking Sensor - Coding - Change to areaview camera type '20' 5F Infotainment - Adaptation - VPS_0x0B to activated Then all the relevent coding in 6C areaview (manual/auto, bodytype, make, model and such, same as reverse camera again) Dataset needs uploading to 6C - only datasets I have are tiguan, passat pre-FL, passat FL Calibrate the camera using vas721001 calibration mats and a diagnostic tool Now I was unable to calibrate the areaview as it keeps picking up errors on the front camera, both sides and rear are perfectly fine. The red lines means its detecting part, but not all it needs (turns blue when it finds all it needs) the yellow dots in the sky are things it thinks its looking for, so that gives us the next issue to work out why and ive narrowed it down to many things: The mats need to be wrinkle free Needs to be done indoors with uniform lighting to prevent sky issues The calibration mat isnt perfect as the forward white lines SHOULD go directly to the end. not stop short. The dataset currently on there is for a tiguan which has a different camera placement, i may try a passat pre-FL which is much more similar to my setup. The camera I have fitted is too low and not in a suitable location, could try lifting the car up level on bricks 2/3 inches or may end up having to change camera mounting location, yikes. All of these need to be worked out so i can fully calibrate the system and have a seamless image. Next up, the heated washer jets were coded, real straight forward: BCM 09 - adaptation - Window heater-Waschduesenheizung to active The heated steering wheel again was real straight forward and all done through HVAC 08 - coding: Byte 11 bit 2 - 1 (Enable heated SW) Byte 11 bit 3 - 1 (Enable multi-stage heated SW) Byte 13 bit 2-3 (Decide if you want it to auto come on with the heated seat or outside temp) The phone charger with antenna base again, very straight forward on coding, all in 5F infotainment - coding: Byte 15 bit 0 - 1 (Enable baseplate) Byte 15 bit 1 - 1 (Enable antenna amplifier in baseplate) Byte 15 bit 2 - 1 (Enable wireless charger) This came with a fault code - B156401 - Antenna for telephone mount, electrical error and working out exactly what this fault code relates to will be fun, the below are the options that need further diagnosis: My coding has a possible problem and im either missing something or wasnt meant to enable bit 1 My fakra cable from charger to amplifier is faulty My amplifier is faulty Amplifier not receiving power, ground or switch on signal Faulty charger or roof antenna (but both brand new so id hope not) Faulty fakra cable between amplifier and roof antenna The USB hub was next, this added a second USB port in the centre console that is fully supportive of carplay/android auto and everything else and coding was very simple again, all in 5F infotainment: Byte 19 bit 6 - 1 Byte 19 bit 7 - 1 (Both of these will already be on if you have a carplay/android auto USB port) 5F Adaptation - Interface for external media activation - connection 1 → activated Interface for external media activation - connection 2 → activated Straight forward and no faults with this, fully working and no issues! The TV tuner was next, now this im only half way through sorting and have yet to disable component protection which means i cant currently see anything and my TV list only shows liverpool tv, so something is very very wrong here but im yet to work it out. There are no faults for any open antennas or such, which is a very good start! The coding so far is as follows: 5F infotainment - adaptation: Gateway component list: TV Tuner - enable TV_tuner_0x2C - enable TV_tuner_0x2C_msg_bus - currently not sure, possibly Terminal 15? menu_display_tv_tuner - enable Gateway - installation list - 57 TV tuner Now with this coding I have no fault codes anywhere except component protection, which is a good start! Im yet to fiddle around and see if anything works on this side so when i find time ill do this In preparation for the DCC retrofit, A custom gateway FPA dataset is required, this now gets a small bit complicated. So a lovely gent managed to decode the entire gateway dataset to allow reverse engineering. The only issue, you need to have a gateway with at least version Q, mine was C. I thought id give it a go, so first I intercepted my own dataset from ODIS for version C of gateway, when looking at it under a HEX editor you could see the differences already between a version C and Q dataset. Namely the section that holds the FPA data starts at address 0B80 on a Q dataset and is exactly 4352 bytes. On my C dataset the address with 4352 bytes started at 0320 which is NOT 0B80, this is an issue. I tried picking out the individual bits I needed but this was no good. Annoying as I would of prefered to make small changes to my current dataset instead of creating one from scratch. Next I scrapped the idea and started from scratch and began using the FPA editor to create a dataset - http://www.mqbtools.nl/fpa/ Once this dataset was done, I couldnt upload it as its only suitable for Q and onwards software. So the gateway module now needs an update! There are two paths for 19 gateway modules that are 3Q0907530 - Lear and Continental. Both have the same suffixes for hardware and software but are NOT interchangable. If you do that, youll brick the module. So as I have continental (can read through diagnostic or physical checking label) I know that my software numbers start with 5, whereas lear start with 4. So my continental software was C - 5287 (Lear C - 4287) and I needed to get to at least Q - 5344 (Lear Q - 4344) (With gateway, as long as its a valid software, you can flash forward, backward, skip some, do whatever. No risk of bricking) So I made the choice to jump to the newest version which is AC, or in full 3Q0907530AC - 5388 (Lear 4388) after this, everything worked perfectly except for loosing coding, adaptations and many fault codes..... I then used ODIS-E to reconfigure the coding and adaptations to what they were before, no issues here and now almost all the fault codes are gone and no more dash errors. The custom made dataset was then uploaded to the module (ODIS-E did not like this but still accepted it) as the checksum was incorrect, but still a valid dataset. The only additional coding to enable the DCC options to appear in profile selection was 19 - coding - FPA_Funktion_DR (DR for damper regulation) Everything is now working, but im left with a single fault code that there is no documentation on "00301 - 769 - C115531 - Analog measurement input, No signal" and although it causes no issues, This will be a seamless build with no faults left so i done some digging. I found a single other person who had the same issue and they advised I roll the software from AC to AA - 5366, I am yet to try this but I have acquired the software, so that will be my next test to see if it fixes it. The only saving grace, all datasets for anything from Q to AC are the same and can be uploaded with no issues. We currently have a working DCC slider and options displaying (but of course not doing anything until the coding for DCC and damper fitting)

My L&K Superb estate in Graphite Grey with grey interior has arrived. Slightly disappointed that even on the L&K trim the USB port in the rear-view mirror is an optional extra (that wasn't taken when the car was built), but I'm looking forward to getting out in it.

Fair run back from SW Scotland to NE England, mostly cruising at the legal A road limits - some spells a bit lower following traffic and for villages/ City bypasses but also some short full throttle overtaking bursts. Screen shot after two and a bit hours in : confirming the potential full tank range of over 1000 miles :2litre diesel, 150 DSRA evo motor.

Res deletes on TSi cars. Makes it drone and do your head in! Any modification will have a knock on effect. Remaps will highlight weaknesses in certain parts of the engine and drivetrain. Lowering springs will highlight knackered shocks and topmounts. Fiddling about with VCDS, even if you are following instructions for a very similar vehicle, could still have an undesired effect.

Front strut brace …. Yeah it stiffens the front up, but at the expense of increased understeer. Coilovers …. Yes it’s nice to have sporty feeling suspension, but as some will know that simply lowering the ride height isn’t enough as other parts of the geometry are pushed out of spec and can easily ruin a decent set of expensive boots! Not fitted myself, but reports on solid engine mounts have led to a more positive and quicker gear change, but at the expense of much increased cabin vibration. Too much for some who reported that they put the OEM setup back in as it was so bad. Finally, Big-455 4-pot brakes with fancy Porsche wheels. Yes, they can stop you on a 5p piece at 80 and it’s nice to have a posh badge on your wheels, but what happens when you have a blowout on the motorway and your spare wheel won’t fit over those huge callipers….. wait 4 hours for the AA!!

My previous vRS (2015 220 EA888 IS20) developed an odd delay in the internal heating. The silica bag was intact. The short story was that the coolant check valve had failed and was reporting open when it was actually closed. Simple enough, but took a long time to diagnose, with a lot of trial and error. I was given the go ahead to bring the car home, while the dealer awaited the part. Didn't make it home as the turbo grenaded itself. Turns out the coolant check valve also sends coolant to the turbo (but not if it's faulty!) and this was considered to be the reason for the turbo failing (I suspect other factors). There was swarf in the engine, so it needed a strip down to check if the turbo had taken the engine with it too (thankfully not). Skoda initially agreed to cover the costs as it was likely the check valve had failed during the warranty period, but then retracted this as the car had been remapped (after warranty). Long story here: My cautionary tale is that what appears a simple heating issue, can actually have fairly catastrophic consequences (which the remap may have exacerbated). For me that was a rather bitter £3,000 bill. Gaz PS: 'nuvver one; When I inherited a 1989 Mk2 Golf GTI !6v (139bhp), it had a K&N panel filter - one of the ones you had to clean and oil. I changed it for a standard paper filter, and confirmed via rolling road that the K&N, on this car, made absolutely no performance difference whatsoever.

Hello all, I've read all the posts in this topic and found some wrong information. I'll try to explain how the system works in short, if anyone has some questions, I will kindly answer them. To start with, the 12V battery is charged ONLY with the high voltage system, by the power electronics that also drives the motor (the big metal block with the 6 orange wires connected to it next to the ICE) to be more precise. There is no alternator on the ICE, so if you drive in E-mode or hybrid, it doesn't make a difference in charging the 12V battery. This means the high voltage system must be active to charge the 12V battery, so only when driving or charging the HV battery. The reason why there is only 13.1 or .2V is because the 12V battery is monitored by the gateway, it knows the charging state, so if it is above 80%, ther is no need to charge it, purely wasted energy to keep the system at 14V all the time. This is why the converter only supplies 13.2V to the system to just prevent the battery from discharging. When driving and using the regen while braking, the system will be at 14V, all the modern cars do this, not only the hybrids. Actually most of them only have 12 - 12,5V while accelerating, when coasting or braking the alternator will start to charge the battery. Why Sir_Ron_Norris' battery died, I haven't got a clue, but it isn't related to driving in E-mode or hybrid. Could be an driver error (leaving a light on, something plugged into the 12V socket,...), bad ground connection or just a faulty battery. I hope with the new battery the problem has been solved.