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Jim Clark Rally came past today. Used the camera phone then butchered on the computer.. lol

TV tuner now fully working Lots of coding options for rear displays - Wonder if I could mount some displays in the sportline headrests.... hmmm - just something ill consider in the future.

1K0 614 117 H ABS unit with control unit MK70 TEVES PR:1AC+7K0 according to partslink24

TV tuner now fully working Lots of coding options for rear displays - Wonder if I could mount some displays in the sportline headrests.... hmmm - just something ill consider in the future. Got a few other issues that ive got to diagnose - A gateway fault with no details that wont clear! Its looking for something that doesnt exist so will need some more digging. Antenna fault for phone charger base - I assume ive wired something incorrectly on the amplifier for the antenna but need to look into it more Then the next part of the plan is the suspension, wheel alignment, a tyre, dcc coding and webasto pipe work.

Took the car to the Skoda Owners Club event today. Still work in progress, but getting there.

Hmm, I'd normally suggest this indicates a battery failing issue - I know you said you've checked, but how? Electric power steering has a high current demand so is an early casualty if all is not well. You can also get spurious errors elsewhere. Another known strange fail can be an abs sensors - especially rear.

I've never used ErWin, but someone did mention once that it cost 7 Euros for 1 hour's access...which apparently is enough to download your cars's factory options, ie. build codes. However, there's a seller on ebay who can supply the build codes for about 3 Euros. Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find this listing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 You might also want to take a look at the following website which shows the Skoda approved rim sizes for the Superb MK3 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3ASuperb%2BIII%2B%282015-2024%29&show=Page# Wheel sizes for Superb MK3 (16" wheels won't fit the Superb MK3 2.0TSI 272HP/280HP 4x4) 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 (215/60R16) 6.5Jx17 ET41 5/112 57.1 (215/55R17) 7Jx17 ET40 5/112 57.1 (215/55R17) 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 (235/45R18) 8Jx19 ET44 5/112 57.1 (235/40R19) You might also want to look at the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity) which shows all the Skoda approved wheel sizes. Here's a couple of suggestions for the 17" tyre size. The 18" option won't ride as well as the narrower, higher profile 17" option. The 17" option will also be slightly more economical, ie. slightly better fuel consumption. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 215/55R17 94V (Euro label B B 70dB) (3PMSF) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8825p220589/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_215_55_R17_94V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Vredestein Ultrac 215/55R17 94W (Euro label C A 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s1714p210552/Vredestein_Tyres_Car_Vredestein_Ultrac_215_55_R17_94W_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Bear in mind that even into the early 1990's, some of the big Jaguar cars used 215/70R15 tyres...so the much lower profile 215/55R17 is going to be able to provide far more lateral grip than that tyre could...plus thirty years of tyre development. Outside diameter of tyre 215/70R15 682mm (2.0% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/55R17) 215/55R17 668.3mm Big Jag from around 1991 perhaps with 215/70R15 tyres https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_XJ#/media/File:1992_Jaguar_Sovereign_4.0_Rear.jpg A non-standard 16" tyre option could be 205/65R16. Apart from the superb ride comfort, even better than 215/55R17...this tyre size fits in the spare wheel well without raising the carpet. The 205/65R16 tyre size could be fitted to the standard 16" rim size, ie. 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1. Outside diameter of tyre 205/65R16 672.9mm (0.7% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/55R17) 215/55R17 668.3mm Vredestein Ultrac 205/65R16 95W (Euro label A A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s2785p210548/Vredestein_Tyres_Car_Vredestein_Ultrac_205_65_R16_95W_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_A_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB 7Jx17 ET40 5/112 57.1 Ratikon alloy rims (from Kodiaq but same specification as Superb MK3) (11.1kg) 565071497A 8Z8 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-kodiaq/p/565071497A+8Z8 Here's four links to Michelin Primacy 4+ tyres in the standard 215/55R17 and 235/45R18 sizes, and slightly oversize 225/55R17 and 245/45R18 sizes...all with W (168mph/270km/h) speed ratings and XL (eXtra Load). They all have B A 70dB Euro labels. The Michelin Primacy is a summer touring tyre, so will give a smoother, quieter, more refined ride than an UHP (Ultra High Performance) summer tyre such as the Michelin Pilot Sport. The summer touring tyre will also tend to have a longer tread life than the UHP summer tyre. Outside diameter of tyre 215/55R17 668.3mm 225/55R17 679.3mm (1.3% bigger outside diameter compared to 235/40R19) 235/45R18 668.7mm 245/45R18 677.7mm (1.1% bigger outside diameter compared to 235/40R19) Michelin Primacy 4+ 215/55R17 98W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s1714p210232/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_215_55_R17_98W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 225/55R17 101W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s466p210230/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_225_55_R17_101W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 235/45R18 98W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s2057p210225/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_235_45_R18_98W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Michelin Primacy 4+ 245/45R18 100W XL (Euro label B A 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s315p209227/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Primacy_4%2B_245_45_R18_100W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

Dear all, On my MY20 L&K, I've just spent out on a DSG gearbox oil change and filter change. Car runs with a DQ381-7F. The vehicle has done 19k; ever since we pick up the car it's had a whine (which we thought was an aux belt and dry bearings), but I wanted to say that in-fact, this turns out to have been the DSG pump complaining through lack of fluid. Other symptoms included; hard to change into gear (especially when gearbox was cold) e.g. change from Park into Reverse. Car was always reluctant to get going. Never happy to get moving quickly. Gearbox in sports mode was always problematic (high revs, not a lot of go). Downshifting was also jurky. The signifier (and this why you should ALWAYS have an ODBELEVEN dongle to hand) is that when I looked at the pressures on the gearbox when moving forward, requested pressure was at 25 bar; actual pressure was never any higher than 14 or 15 bar. In other words the pump could not deliver the pressure needed or requested. One gearbox fluid and filter change later, I have a TRANSFORMED car. Gear selection is now faultless and you now cannot even feel the gear changes. Had to pay for the fluid change myself, but trying to claim it back on my Skoda used-car warranty (not holding out much hope as it's a poor quality insurance and has LOADS of exclusions). My recommendation is that if you have a MY19 or MY20 Octavia with a DQ381-7F or DQ381-7A gearbox and it doesn't seem to drive correctly (either excessive slippage or just get moving forward properly), it's a high chance that the factory didn't fill up the gearbox fluid properly. For me...the 315ukp for this service is a lot of money but it's cheaper than a new gearbox/mechatronics unit

This is a big red flag to me. Why would you not change the tensioner at the same time as the cambelt? That's just asking for trouble.

Up near Fort William at the moment. 556 miles covered so far 140 kWh used £40 spent in supercharging (But left home 100%, currently 35%, so need to add ~£4 from home) 3 supercharging so far, one more this morning before heading to Skye. Friend travelling together in a diesel GLC already fuelling up twice, going to top up again this morning. 4 adults and a kid in the fully loaded car. Driving up to Carlisle first day, there’s always someone wanted to stop for one reason or another. Charged twice, never went below 50%. At most, superchargers were ~2/3 full. Never had to queue, all worked first time plugging in and got full speed.

Well my 16th Skoda is a Karoq. Picked it up a couple of weeks ago in the rain and today the first chance to give it a proper clean. 1.5TSi DSG SEL.

So little bit of a side line now... and something I am 99.9% hasnt been done before... Ventilated Sportline Seats So this was an all new project and going in blind! So a bit of theory behind it first: On the superb, all seat frames are near enough the same, then the difference between the leather and sportline seats is the foam insides and the headrest. There are no ventilated parts for the sportline and the ones built into the leather seat foam are far from the right shape, so it meant starting from scratch. Also something to note - the fans suck air through the seat, not blow air onto you. The parts that were needed for this: 4x Fans Wiring Plugs Terminals Diffuser sheet Isolator sheet Fan mounting Now the fans, wiring and terminals are easy to source but the sheets and mountings are actually built into the seat foam and cant be purchased separately. I then found a company that sold me all 4 diffuser and isolator sheets and some mountings that would work. Now we are in business! There are 2 fans per seat, and they are wired exactly the same (almost) and controlled by LIN. Each seat gets a power on pin 1, a LIN on pin 3 and a ground on pin 2. Pins 4-6 are then grounded differently depending on the fans position and this is how the LIN knows what each seat fan is doing and where it is. Thats the wiring out of the way, next the physical mounting of everything: So this is a cross section of how it currently looks: Yellow is the solid seat foam Red is the heated seat element Black is the seat fabric itself. And this is how it ended up looking: Yellow is the seat foam which now has holes going through it completely, indicated by the brown lines Red is the heated seat element which is porous so needed no modification Black is the seat fabric, again it was porous and luckily no modification needed. Blue is the diffuser sheet - which is a semi rigid sheet that is full of holes allowing the air to distribute fully across all the holes, even with a persons weight pushing on them. Green is the isolator sheet - this is what seals the area to allow the only air being sucked it to be from the front of the seat, via the holes in the foam. Brown circle is the fan. And now some photos of it all - the parts and strip down first: A rough marking of the fan location and the foam being cut The seat base to show the 2 circle holes where the fan could possibly mount The fan, mounting, diffuser sheet and isolator sheet Decided on mounting the fan is the forward seat base hole A torch behind the fabric to show the holes are require permiable, so air wont have an issue. Next is the actual building of it all: Seat back wired up and fully ready to refit, fan installed Seat base foam cut, very roughly before sanding it flat to give a better finish Diffuser mat laid in the cut out All the holes, and the foam pieces ready to fit back on top at the end to maintain its shape Diffuser mat glued in place and trimmed to fit perfectly. A sportline seat base - the head rest is what gives it its shape, very odd design Back of the sportline foam before i began cutting The cut out for the diffuser foam. The holes - drilling these is pointless - i heated up a piece of rebar and melted the holes through - a drill just pushes the foam out the way. Diffuser, isolator and fan mount fitted. And some photos of the controls now fully working! And all of that, took 2 whole days for a single seat! Next is the drivers seat! It did get me thinking though.... the 4B module often refered to as the headlight control module, is actually a multi function control module and it has a lot of other odd options too - almost like extra pins for the BCM. But anyway, it has functions on there for rear seat ventilation too... just a thought. But that would mean a completely custom rear temperature control panel, intercept and inject LIN and canbus signals through my own controller... but yeah, just a thought.

+++ 2024.11.24 +++ -> next 2025 cross compatible on: Škoda Amundsen (MIB2), Seat Navi (MIB2), VW Discover Media2 (MIB2), Audi MMI ?-?-? (MIB2), MAN Media VAN Navigation started yesterday by @bigade1 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512842-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-2024/?do=findComment&comment=5837727 tested by @Tell # ECE AS(A1) 2024 15.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2210_V19.7z Files inside: 2023.05.12 Downloadable: 2024.03.21Published: 2024.04.?? Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU_A1_202425.zip Files inside: 2023.05.12 Downloadable: 2024.05.31 Published: 2024.--.-- # ECE 1 2024 6.9 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2210_V19.7z Files inside: 2023.05.12 Downloadable: 2024.03.21Published: 2024.04.?? Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU1_202425.zip Files inside: 2023.05.12 Downloadable: 2024.05.31 Published: 2024.--.-- # ECE 2 2024 6.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU2_202425.zip # ECE 3 2024 5.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: - - https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU3_202425.zip # ECE 4 2024 8.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU_DL1_202425.zip # ECE 5 2024 8.7 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU_DL2_202425.zip # ECE 6 2024 8.1 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU_DL3_202425.zip # ECE 7 2024 7.0 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: - - https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_EU_DL4_202425.zip # ROW 1 2024 7.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_MRM1_202425.zip # ROW 2 2024 4.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_MRM2_202425.zip # ROW 3 2024 5.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_MRM3_202425.zip # MRM DL1 2024 6.1 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_MRM_DL1_202425.zip # MRM DL2 2024 1.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2210_V19.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2210_V19.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2210_MRM_DL2_202425.zip ======= coverage ======= # ECE AS(A1) Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Faroe Islands, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Malta, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Vatican City State # ECE 1 Andorra, Belgium, Faroe Islands, France, Gibraltar, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, United Kingdom # ECE 2 Albania, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Norway, Romania, Russian Federation, Serbia, Sweden, Ukraine # ECE 3 Austria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Malta, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 4 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 5 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, Faroe Islands (land-use only), France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man), Vatican City State # ECE 6 Andorra, Belgium, Denmark, Faroe Islands (land-use only), Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man) # ECE 7 Albania, Austria, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Macedonia, F.Y.R.O., Malta, Moldova, Montenegro, Poland, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, Vatican City State # ROW 1 Israel, Argentina, Brazil, Fr. Guyana *, Guadeloupe *, Martinique *, Mexico, Turkey * # ROW 2 India *, Chile * # ROW 3 Australia, New Zealand, Botswana *, Lesotho *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, South Africa, Swaziland *; Reunion *, Brunei, Indonesia *, Malaysia *, Philippines *, Singapore, Thailand, Egypt *, Algeria *, Bahrain *, Jordan *, Qatar *, Kuwait, Morocco, Oman *, Saudi Arbien *, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates * # MRM DL1 Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique # MRM DL2 Israel, Turkey ======= instruction ======= Don't ask me details, i have Columbus Mib2H. all what i know, files must be extracted to original(Škoda's) SD Card some questions have been already answered in previous treads: -> 2024 -> 2023/24 -> 2023 -> 2022/23 -> 2022 -> 2021 -> 2020 -> 2018/2019

Except the work inside the air filter box i reinstall a hose which brings air from the grill inside, so what are the results from that increased amount of air in the throttle? Gold start: The sound of the motor (idle) is covered a bit from the air filter box noise, we all have heard that deep ''Moooa" of some exaggerations in air filters (extra holes or cut big pieces from the bottom of the plastic box etc), well this exists now but it's not loud and does not bother me, has one click more ''bass" than normal and it's pleasant. 1st gear and go on: the car is one click smoother especially at night when i am on a basement of underground parking and making circles to reach the exit. In the past i though that someone was ''pushing'' me a bit and was annoying. Drop of the needle: when i am in 2nd or even 3rd and i had to stop while pressing the brake pedal and engage neutral for the last meters the movement of the needle is smoother, it's not abrupt. The car does decelerate quieter, more softly, before the sound was different and i had the thought like someone suddenly ''brake'' the engine, the feeling that we have when the throttle is dirty or we are about to run of gas. Remind me back in the car carburettor days or still today the feeling with my small carburettor motorcycle, my throttle isn't dirty but every time (for example a sudden traffic light) that feeling and sound of that ''cut'' was unpleasant. Acceleration middle rpm: one click better, more smooth although in 3rd gear if the rpm dropped (uphill) to 2000 i hear the sound of the engine more ''Moooing" so i downshift to 2nd or take that small uphill all the way with 2nd and not 3rd. I will pay attention to this in the future. Acceleration high rpm: far better than before, no problem at all, i reached the 140 with 4th and i could go more but there was no reason and i don't like speed traffic tickets. Ok with the 5th too, no problem in Highway. Fuel Consumption: Dropped even in City Traffic, soon photos as proof. I am not an engineer or a scientist but in my car (ECU chip, custom exhaust, gauze air filter) that patent worked. Keep in mind that i have tested paper filters, another brand gauze filter, 2 kinds of POD filters, factory air box with or without the inner flap and so far that combination works, if i had a problem i would mention and accept it in public but as is now it's an all around Winner.

Wise words! I only used the horn because I was picking my mother in law up. I blame her

That looks like my hand in that photo They arent available seperately, but you could find a cheap panel and take them from it. I may have a spare panel i can sell you cheap but wont be able to check till next weekend now.

Yes. Full Main Dealer Service History, or Full Service History, Yet they are often showing what is maybe not done, or not showing clearly what was like spark plugs, air filter and pollen filter. Brake Fluid change is not enough, or a visual brake inspection, rear brake drums need a clean out and serviced.

don't use the horn while you need to accelerate !!!

Thanks MickA so just the 2 screws to remove then the screen will unclip from it's housing?

The ''moment of truth" came, it's time for a road test to see the behaviour of the car and the Fuel Consumption with that slightly modified air filter box. I choose to fill the tank with 98 octane gasoline from a specific gas station (more for this in a future topic), i have done about 45Km distance in hard City Traffic, about 50 Km in the Highway where i pushed at least two times the car to the red zone (5500 rpm and 140Km top speed) in purpose and return home in City Traffic. The whole test distance was 108.8 Km , the receipt in the gas pump station shown 9.020 ltr so the FC was 8,29 ltr/100Km or 34.075 UK mpg. 😍 The TC-6 shown 8,4% Average and 9ltr Total which is almost identical to the 9.020 of the pump which means the specific gas station does not steal from the pump. I could get lower MPG in Highway but that was not my purpose, i wanted to push the car to see the behaviour in high rpm, the torque, the behaviour in middle rpm later in an uphill etc with the modification. At 13:00 i am already in City, the distance is 102.7 Km The distance is 103.2 Km, normally the FC start rising due to traffic. and arrived in gas station at 13:28 so i did 6.1 Km distance in about 28 minutes (actually is 2 minutes less, it's the time to stop in the station and the time for the pump to do it's job) but you get the idea. So in the FC sector the modified air box filter worked very good, no problem with 4th gear and 100Km speed to reach the 140 Km, no hesitation to touch the 5500 rpm limit (with the previous damned-useless-crappy 15W-50 i couldn't even reach the 5000 rpm). No problem with the 10W-40 Synthetic oil, take a look the needle in the temperature gauge.

@Tell use known links, replace just filename at the end

Just watched this old video. They said it's a "Myth" that driving style can impact economy but then they fail to test driving style, as they've apparently been driving in convoy and presumably accelerating / braking together. (I'm pretty sure that driving style would make a difference.) Also, in the so-called "identical" cars, one has a rear wiper and the other doesn't - which is surely going to impact aerodynamics if you're heading up a motorway on a long journey. And doesn't bode well that they failed to notice it. (Also not sure you've ever been able to buy a Coupe Enyaq with a rear wiper in the UK? So maybe it was some sort of press car?) So I don't think it's a very credible video - not a YouTube channel I'll be subscribing to...

The DQ250 six speed wet clutch DSG in the 2.0 is better and more reliable (as a general rule) than the DQ200 seven speed dry clutch DSG in the 1.4. I've got both, DQ250 in the Golf, and DQ200 in the Polo and were I buying, I'd choose the DQ250 all day long, even though our DQ200 has never missed a beat. Gaz

Yes absolutely, I think I've been extremely lucky here, or at least I hope I have. It's booked in for Thursday at the garage so I'll get the belt and tensioner etc. changed and get them to check the camshaft adjuster.

they have a bcm, which is not a specific battery management system but which does regulate the charging voltages and current according to both state of charge and battery type - agm needs a higher voltage if I remember correctly - and you'd fry a standard one earlier if you push that much voltage to it. in the interest of longevity, get it coded. should just be the serial / type and take about 5 mins. Bret

Brilliant, appreciate the help

If you want it to work right, match not only the 6Q1...part number exactly, but also the next line which will be SK250D2DRS on yours, or possibly SK250DDRS.

STD they came on 18” but 19” was also an option. Used 17” and 19” winter wheels / tyres on my 2015 L&K. As the car has DCC there was very little difference in comfort, however the car looked crap (IMO) on 17’s.

Led headlights can be fitted but you also need the level control system and headlight washers. This may also require a new bcm or can gateway making it very expensive. Skoda don't provide a changelog. The list of fixes tends to be very vague and helpful. TSR needs nav to work properly... Yes, you can replace the mirrors with motorised versions. You might need new door controllers which support them. ACC is also possible assuming your ABS module supports it. All the above retrofits could be quite expensive and complex so you might want to consider swapping your car if they are important to you...

You can certainly get that effect from coding... Can you post a full autoscan and also an adaption map from 09 please.

If the recirculation flap motor has failed, it will throw a code....can you get a code scan done for us pls?

Try unplugging the window motor.

Well eventually I replaced the valve and the error is gone! Easy job. I took measurement of the new valve and the reading was 25 Ohm. On the old one it was open circuit, no readings. I will try to somehow open the old valve to inspect what went wrong. I hope the delayed repair didn’t make things worse in the long run.

Only thing that matters legally is what is on the weight plate on the car.

The Action Can, SP 90. It's a very useful product, seals, bushing, windows etc

I'm on Zappi - used to be on Agile and it worked well with that. Now I'm on Intelligent Octopus Go, we averaged 8.5p per kWh over the winter for the whole energy bill - and we're an all electric house

Damn! Those springs keep on breaking eh? 🤣

I think it is just the nature of the BMW / MINI 3 cylinder petrol engine. (is it the one with the 48v mild hybrid). It is does has a bit of a thirst when just the 134 bhp petrol turbo doing cold starts, not cold weather, just short hops.

Overthinking it IMO. Just use the car. The DSG will last as long as it lasts. Millions of DSG,s are driven in many ways by many people. Maybe just do not leave a DQ381 to 80,000 miles before an oil change and if you ever notice an issue with it do not delay in having it checked out. PS With DQ200,s & DQ250,s in slower traffic putting them in S has usually been the thing to do to stop them hunting between 1st and 2nd. It was / is most annoying with a 7 speed twin dry clutch as 1st is so low, compared to a 6 speed. (So a bit more like a 7 speed DQ381.)

@vladRS I’m in exactly the same situation. I’ve been looking at the following Resonated Milltek Cat Back but it’s pricey. The non-res version is about £300 cheaper however I’d rather avoid it being excessively noisy and the drone that would inevitably come with it. After more of an OEM+ feel to the car. Unfortunately I haven’t come across anyone with either fitted for a comparison. https://www.awesomegti.com/temp/milltek-resonated-uses-oe-tips-octavia-vrs-2-0-tsi-245ps-face-lift-hatch-estate-opf-gpf-models-only/

Patching of your unit requires it to be open and soldered to replace some files in EMMC.

Yes, this is the part that must be replaced. You will also have to ask your Skoda dealer to remove components protection, recover FEC/SWaP codes assigned to your car as well as parametrization, coding and adaptations. Alternatively, new unit can be patched.

IMHO the problem is either with one of RAM chips or i.MX6 processor.

I gave up on the Aurora and went back to taking photos of the Moon and Sun - at least you can depend on them putting in an appearance 😄

Unlike what was written in another post, your aim is to push the bottom end of that wedge (where vertical spring is attached) upwards, not down. Use hole in drum and flat blade screwdriver to lever it up while preventing drum rotation.

Definitely not the usual build, done and dusted with the days of performance cars My 2000 VW Polo with a 1.8T engine fitted as well as caged and a whole bunch of other mods - running 350bhp, was a great car whilst it lasted!

If the electrical fault is permanent you need to replace the n428. Edit. And or check wiring. It won't really damage anything short term, that's probably why no mil is commanded. With the n428 not operating, I believe the default state is high or rather normal pressure mode. Not reduced pressure mode. That won't operate...

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I found out the hard way last summer that it doesn't shut off the power to the boot socket, at least on mine, when I left a cool box plugged in overnight by mistake - fortunately I was in a city and the AA were quick to come and resolve my shortage of electricity 😀

There r 9 screws that hold the grille to the front bumper, and 8 tabs/clips!!! Bit overkill, but yeah, having the front bumper off will involve a lot less swearing, in order to remove & fit the grille. To remove bumper - wheels off, wheel arch liner off, disconnect washer pipe, disconnect wiring harness, remove screws - pull bumper out. be careful NOT to hit/upset/knock the ACC radar while sliding the bumper in/out. I created this how to guide on removing the front bumper. Removing Front Bumper.pdf