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Welcome to Briskoda and pleased to hear you like your Octavia. They are indeed nice cars. I’ve never attempted the sort of DIY job you’re thinking of, but my guess is that the wiring is likely to be there, and yes, folding of mirrors would need coding in. Perhaps the guys at @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits (sponsors of this site) could advise and I’m sure they’d be able to do the job for you - at a cost of course. In the meantime, enjoy the car…

My new 2021 sportline diesel

You at least want a voucher or something for your next visit

Managed to get it off

Corn bunting

It is hard to imagine any mainstream car not having some hybrid, either full or mild. It is such a cost saving tech, despite what Davetakesiton say who clearly has not fathomed.

I didn't think the wire ring is for the nut cover removal, either locking or standard covers, the plastic pliers are used for that, which I have used multiple times for all the covers. It was my understanding that the wire ring was for removing the cover to access the rear light cluster, via the small hole in it. Shown in the handbook section on replacing lamps.

I took advantage of the slightly cloudy weather this morning to wash, clay, polish and wax it. My cheapo Halfords polisher decided to almost smash itself to pieces just as I'd started polishing the bonnet so I had to do the rest of the polishing plus the wax by hand. Of course, my 'fancy' NXT wax had separated so I had to throw that away and dig out a very old bottle of Turtle Wax. It did the job but I forgot how hard it was to buff off. It now feels like someone is trying to twist my right shoulder off 😧

That's a really good point. I've been reading posts on here about retrofitting a reverse camera, and @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits came up a lot. I'm already thinking of taking a family trip north sometime! Glad my theory about the wiring didn't sound too wishful thinking too!

Pathetic after sales service from Skoda Dealerships. Really this nonsense needs more from Skoda / VW UK. Deaf dumb and blind Franchised Dealerships / Authorised repairers. The people you have to report Warranty issues to and unsafe behaviour to. They learned nothing from the WLTP / 2018 kangarooing issues. That ended up with RECALLS. Well past time that the DVSA were involved.

That looks good. Have they finally fixed it after many years of complaints or is this just because chinese fixed the issue where half the screen was covered with useless information? This is what it used to be: Haven't used android auto for years so might have to try it out.

Tired of years of boring Yawn Grey/ Boring Silver/Show every mark Black/Had its day White. Times have changed, time for a little colour in our lives. Doesnt show the dirt. Never lost in a car-park.

Gandalf got new brake pads & rotors fitted today....after 90k kms, the factory original brakes, front specifically, were getting low. Rears still had another 5.5mm left. Decided to change all 4 corners for DBA Rotors and Pads. Front - DBA2806S slotted rotors + DB2384SP Performance pads. Rear - DBA2837E plain rotors + DB2384SS pads.

I've just emailed my dealer to confirm what the 57NL campaign concerned and this is the reply: "The recall 57NL is a control unit update to the body control module and prevents the car from automatically locking itself when unnecessary."

Update - B107c14 or 1080340 Park Assist Speaker Open/Short Circuit this was the parking buzzer. if anyone has the same issue, in the Near Side black B pillar behind the seat belt is the buzzer pop the pillar trim off, pop the inside bit of the plasic lugs out, just push them all the way through, then swap out the buzzer and replace. whole job took about an hour, but the bulk of that was hunting behind the carpet for the plastic pin in the plastic, and having to do the job twice because the metal clip popped off and wouldn’t hold the trim. next job is the 0343, which I think relates to side light/interior bulbs, which would make sense as it seems that there are 2 that are blown. Then the antenna, which may be a replacement, may be a broken antenna cable or from a quick trawl of forums may just need the nut tightening, we shall see when I get that far.

It’s probably a poor design with so many people having the same issue and across the VWA group. I have just ordered a replacement from AliExpress which has the emergency release cord that you feed through into the boot. Be interesting to see if that’s any good. Will update in like 2 weeks.

Errrrr, c’mon. Do you really think you’d need to have two tools to do the same job? Try again; it definitely works on the locking wheel nut cover.

My Karoq 1.5 Tsi Drive, manual, new on March 1st, 2024, had the same symptoms...losing power randomly at junctions and roundabouts. I was left in dangerous situations on several occasions. The car would fire up again after 5-10 seconds, only by pressing the ignition button on the column. I took it to the nearest Skoda dealer three weeks after delivery. They found nothing wrong after diagnostic testing. They, too, said the issue was new to them. Another dealer refused to test the car, saying that their diagnostic equipment would be the same, so not to bother bringing the car in for testing. Every time I got in the car, the first thing I did was to turn off the start/stop function. I tried E5 petrol...no difference. I began to plan my driving routes so as to avoid as many junctions/roundabouts as I could. My car was on a 3-year Personal Hire Contract. Eventually, after regular stress to my passengers and myself, I got Skoda Finance involved. I managed to get my contract terminated, without penalty. I am now awaiting delivery of a Qashqai! Let's hope for better times ahead!

Thank you for the quick responses. In the 6 years I had the car I have never seen anything like this, so I was going into a slight panic, thinking the holiday was going to be ruined with chasing repair shops and having no car to get around. But I will call off the alarm and have a glass of cold wine. 😁

Skoda Auto a.s. has now made official Rapid documentation in English available for download from Skoda-Auto.cz. The links at the foot of this post cover different production periods for the Rapid so make sure that you select the correct one for your car. The following documentation is available: Owner's manual User's manuals for car radios, navigation systems and MDI Media-compatible music players: Blues Swing Amundsen Navigation https://mediaportal.skoda-auto.com/resource/documentation/manuals/Forms/AllItems.aspx?RootFolder=%2fresource%2fdocumentation%2fmanuals%2fen%2fRapid%2f07%2d2012&FolderCTID=0x012000B97B65C85804644C9CFD91588B4A0B85&View=%7b5F8895A9%2dDC6C%2d4250%2dBC1F%2dADE6076A3046%7d N.B. These links and the documentation they contain could change at any time. If you are likely to need to refer to any of the documents at some time in the future, you are strongly advised to download the files now to your computer while they are still available.

Going to view one tomorrow. Currently have a 1.2tsi yeti. What is a rapid like to live with? Any specific issues to look out for? It’s a 1 previous owner family car, but we need the rear leg room. Have looked at Octavia’s again but very few locally within my budget (mostly newer cars and out of price range). Wife is worried that the interior looks a little basic and dated but Skoda’s tend to be a little like Lego and I’m sure people here have swapped trims etc to lift the interior slightly? With this one it already has sat nav and dab but it’s not a Columbus it’s and older 3 button one with a tiny screen (Amundsen?) so maybe changing that will update the dash area a little? Has anyone changed the basic air con dials to climatronic? thanks in advance

No it should be the one that you were videoing under that steel bracket in the enigne bay beside the expansion tank, at least I think so on that year of common rail. Maybe hold a screwdriver to it and put it on your ear to try and pinpoint the noise but from the video it seemed like a good place to start considering your running issues.

Hi, Got one of these within 24Hrs delivered to my door:- https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/enduroline/096-agm/ Started first crank, so I'm hopefull things will be back to normal after a wee run. Thanks.

I experienced two false tyre warning light episodes in the 5 years I owned my Yeti and I have had two on my present car a now 5 year old Audi A3. These things just happen. As regards warning warning lights in general, these frequently occur when battery voltage is low or the battery has been replaced. Once a new/fully charged battery is in place then the dash and warning lights usually sort themselves out after a mile or so of driving. Colin

currently its around £59 with no subscription, does most things. I think a 1 year subscription with it is around £85 VCDS around £250 I think it is, but no yearly subscription

I'll try driving mine at lower rpm see how it compares just out of interest and report back.

Finally going to put my beloved fabia vrs estate up for sale. Need a bigger car for work. Will be sorly missed absolute pocket rocket . Just about to have a service too No idea how to post for sale on here looks like I've got t o pay £10 to be a freedom member which is fair. But why is it so complicated. Emyhoo bye bye

If they have connected the head unit to a CAN bus adapter and head unit does not turn off then either the wiring is wrong or it simply does not work with CAN bus. Luckily if you don't want or don't need CAN bus then you can hard wire head unit to the ignition and have it turn off every time you turn off the car from key. For that you need a piggy back fuse adapter. Connect it to any of the less critical fuses in the fuse box that loses power when ignition is off. Can't remember which one I used. And then wire piggy back fuse adapters wire to the head units red wire. Yellow wire is constant +12v.

That will be part of the motor - keep note there are different kinds, I believe 4 and 6 wire ones depending on if it’s memory or not.

It’s possible you’ll need replacement door control modules, not all of them support power folding mirrors The wiring you’ll need will come with the replacement mirrors, and plugs into the door control modules

There's just enough roof for a decent sized knife.

Of course! Well im taking in all advice given and will have a good research

Just bumping due to the other thread by @BomerTimpson That does not say it is a 90 ps 1.2 TSI and nobody asked other than me. Just because it is always worth trying to find out what someone has before advising them what to do to improve performance or do upgrades. It is not just about Engine Power, or acceleration, the gearbox the car has matters, and the brakes, tyres, suspension etc matters.

No, my sound was only the one posted this week (an addit to a previous thread where I asked if they'd found a resolution). All great since disconnecting the battery. The extra warning lights came up, took her for a run - hey presto! Loke magic the beeping was gone! Thank you for your concern, but we're all good now.

Before what kicks in, any power? If so, the question you need to be askingis why you have such little power there. These engines are typically way better at the low-mid nd than the mid-high, mine feels great around 2k revs but has dropped any power by 4k If so, throttle response will change nothing. I tried the XLR5 once and returned it after a week. Although it felt great whilst in gears, it was so impractical whilst setting off from stationary as one tiny touch of the pedal nearly sent it to redline, bye bye clutch. Suppose, if you get used to a setting it wont be so bad. Really though, if power is the issue you should be looking at a tuner chip from racechip and not an XLR5 pedal box. or both, theyd both work together. I use the RS Chip, which "gains" 16hp and 44Nm, but the difference can very much be felt between race mode and standard. If you have access to OBDeleven or VCDS there is a slight tweak you can make to your throttle pedal to so called increase the responsivity.

That’s normal, just where the hinge is for the 1/3rd 2/3rd split. Small piece of black trim over the hinge top and bottom to cover it but the cut out bit is normal yes

This is what Waze looks like for me, I've never found it hard to use. Not had any slow response issues with my unit either, but as you see from my link and choice in my 1st response, I did pick one of the more expensive options.

There doesn’t need to be, at that age and mileage. From my understanding…

Just a quick update. The MCU is on its way back from Germany. I'm based in Ireland so sent it to Germany as opposed to the UK, avoiding the customs hassle and poor exchange rate. Just for clarification this is the MCU for the DQ381 in a Skoda Superb 2020 2.0 TDI 190 2WD Related codes: 10666 / P173500 – Position sensor for clutch 1, electric fault. 10668 / P173600 – Position sensor for clutch 2, electric fault The issue is one or both of the Bosch pressure sensors failing, these are mounted inside the MCU. They can be replaced at home , If you're handy with a soldering iron. The 2 pieces work out around €300, plus your time. I sent mine away, peoce of mind it's done correctly and 2 years warranty. I hope to get the MCU fitted sometime this week. Will update as it happens.

Pretty sure this should be aircon condensation and is normal. Enjoy your holiday.

In a place where you don,t have a fuse - which have fabric wire behind + yours rd/gn

They only imported manual 1.4 ones to the UK so it must be a 1.2. We've had a few Yetis and chose not to get an L&K just because of the roof 'risk' as it ages. I would have gambled but my other half would have hated the thought of water getting in at some stage.

Mine doesn't get that much use these days. The car slightly more, but anyway, discs.... Have Pagid rears that have been OK but pick up lots of deposits from the handbrake (you must use matching pads with these or they're terrible). I did have Brembos (discs and pads) on the front that probably had between 15k and 20k on them. Definitely warped. No issue with the hubs or clean backplates, definitely the discs. Not a lot, but enough to feel under braking. Swapped them out and back to fine-and-dandy.

You've posted in the wrong forum, this for the site generally, you would be better looking or posting in the 'Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )' forum (or a similar model forum). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/225-skoda-rapid-spaceback-2012/ HTH.

Last week I made a light sleeping equipment to be added to Roomster as needed, and during the midsummer I made first three nights fly fishing trip to north east. Everything worked quite ok, middle frame wasn't sturdy enough so little bit of wobbling while climbing in, and the bed plane didn't stay levelled. Bed was straight enough for sleeping, so not a biggie. Because the car is used mainly on other duties, the camping equipment should be easily removed and stored, so I made it mostly foldable. The parts are attached with one gargo cloth and few zip ties, so its quite fast to put on and take out. With everything on, there is plenty of room for sleeping and stuff needed. Bed is comfortable for one, maybetoo for two very small persons or persons who like to sleep very close together. Main area is 100cmx140cm and the add on on the passangers side is 60x70cm so it's quite nice. I wanted to make it driveable while the bed is on full size to avoid hassle while changing locations, and you don't have to do a lot of setup. The add on is foldable to give normal room to your right shoulder while driving. I'm going to make some little upgrades, but the basic idea is good enough now.

there is a notice on the side of the login screen that for personal use it's free and you can use given guest logins to get in

One of the hardest job was the steering bearings. My first car of this generation of vag cars, so I didn't know about the nice structure of nuts, where they are somehow molded in that rubber ring and welded on an extremely thin plate inside the molding. While the are exposed to the conditions inside the fender, of course they will be stripped away from that plate while a innocent diy-guy tries to take them apart. I should have noticed that something is wrong as I saw this: But I didn't. So a bit too much force and not enough patience and I too sawed those bolts off. Don't recommend that to anybody, it sucked. Construction is like that: There you can see bolts that are cut. Nuts spinned freely in that rubber thing. After the foxtail saw and a bit frustraited owner the area around those bolts looked quite rough, so I did a bit of make up with steel wool, and rattle cans, first zink primer then black: I like it, but now everything around needs some attention too, to match, maybe.

USB ports installation This is the plastic we removed from the back side. We need to remove the part that is the ashtray and replace it with the USB base With a plastic tool or a small screwdriver, press the plastic pins (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily.press the plastic sheets (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily. In the opening created, put the plastic with the USBs and make sure it clicks correctly. We connect the brown plug in place and fasten all the plastic to the center console. ΅We are done!!! Now we can enjoy our new USB ports.

Well, i managed to retrofit rear usb ports. As i mentioned i bought the plastic trim with the USBs holes. (5E3863618 (9B9) The USB module with 2 USBs - C ports is the 3G5035954A An cheap sourch is from a Poland site named SkodaParts (https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3g5035954a-usb-c-connector-skoda-38659.html) I did the wiring. I bought some plugs for this purpose. The black to connect the wiring to the car's (needs a little modification), the red to connect the existing contact of the front seats and the brown for the rear seats USB. The black plug (female) needs a bit of cutting to get the male red plug in. Please see the photo below: And this is the wiring Each plug has 4 pins. Connect 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and 3 to 3 to all plugs. 4 only needs to be connected from the black female to the red male. The new USBs that we will put back do not need to be connected to No.4. This is the schematic This is the result of the preparation.

Hilarious 👍