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I know this is done and dusted, but thought I'd wade in on this as have some training. Most car cleaning products are alkali of some nature because alkali chemicals have a slicky, slippy feeling and this aids as a natural lubricant. Its actually harder to really clear off the paint hence why a lot of instructions will talk about buffing off with a clean microfibre cloth. But they are likely mildly so, 8-10; and definitely not caustic per se. Likely they will have different dilution ratios depending on the state of the bodywork. I use a citrus prewash (these are alkali because Limonene comes from the peel of citrus fruit, nothing to do with Citric Acid), which can be diluted from 25:1 down to 5:1 on very dirty cars and still safe to use. Acids and Alkalis are equally adequate at surfactant actions (breaking the bond between two materials, i.e. paint surface and a contaminant); but alkalis have that naturally-lubricating action, whereas acids will end up being quite 'grabby' when they're flashing off (evaporating and need wiping off). It's this point that causes the contact damage to paint as clearcoat is soft and the microfibre cloth will scratch the clearcoat. That's one of the main reasons why wheel cleaners started off being acid and have now moved en-masse to pH neutral/mildly alkali (except where the brake dust is really repeatedly baked on, or things like aluminium brake parts which can be attacked by acids). Acids are generally still used for 3 things: Iron Fallout Remover (Thioglycolic Acid-based which dissolves the iron particles embedded in the paint) Waterspot remover (avoid the cheaper products using Hydrofluoric Acid which is a contact poison) as needed to attack the alkali limescale/minerals Glass Cleaner - because you can't scratch the glass with a draggy cloth and it flashes off better without needing additional buffing. So - the chrome strips are laminated plastic. No metal in them. It is true that they react and go cloudy when hit with strong alkali but the key here is not snowfoam, it is your local Scratch N Shine who, in an effort to shorten the time, will use a TFR (Traffic Film Remover) which is...a strong alkali. It is likely that the product is needed to be diluted properly in accordance with the manufacturer and left for a specified amount of time; and the dilution ratio likely won't be taken seriously, and in busy times, the pre-wash stage may be too long and in a strong sunlight it we be allowed to dry on. Only way to sort would be replace or take it to someone who can wrap it perhaps. There could be a possibility of using a ceramic coating product (btw not a hybrid ceramic wax or spray ceramic product - they are entirely different to a ceramic coating!) but this is a preventive measure, not a repair of a tarnished one.

Browsing brochure for Kamiq SE L and found that rear shock absorption is a feature of this trim level (see below). Unsure of what feature this could be (crash protection or what) I contacted Skoda customer service and was utterly astounded to receive the reply below. I tried hard to explain that rear suspension/ shock absorbers have been standard on all cars since before I learned to drive in mid 1960’s - obviously someone told to make a up a number of bullet points with no understanding of cars. 🤯

Unless you are entirely comfortable about doing the upgrade yourself then I would recommend that you get your dealer to do it for you. It's the safest option. I think that we have one poster having significant issues with the update going awry and having to go to the dealership for rectification work.

It's the "Manoeuvre Assist" which kicks in with the parking sensors. I think it's something they made a point of saying the car had when they removed the Park Assist as standard kit on the likes of the vRS when the COVID chip shortages were about to sort of make up for losing the Park Assist feature. "Used it" myself whilst on holiday last month reversing into a space the lad was gobbing off about something and got slightly distracted and thought i'd hit a post that was behind me and was resigned to getting out of the car and seeing a big dint in the bumper only to realise there was nothing there. It was only then I realised there hadn't been a bang and just a sudden complete stop.

So just got to my destination, not a huge difference but certainly quieter because I can hear noise in my estate rear now, never noticed it before. On my way here there’s a road with like red rumble strips, my car was quiet anyway but even more now. So from my 30 mins driving (max speed 50) biggest difference is crappy roads no longer seem as bad. I’ll be doing a much longer drive soon and hoping I’ll notice more difference at motorway speeds. But I might have to do something in the boot area now because I can notice more noise there, I don’t believe there’s extra padding for the rear arches that can be added on, so might have to DIY stylee

Hi; As promised, I am reporting back on the charging issues following the software update. Pleased to say that having had the car back at the dealer, it now seems to be working OK and interacting as pre-software update with my Zappi. Dealer wouldn't acknowledge that the solutions offered on this forum were correct but they also didn't offer any alternative explanations ! So thanks to all those who responded to this thread.

I think that you need to read through the threads and then make a decision whether you can do it or not. If in doubt get a dealer to do it and that way if it goes awry they're responsible for the cost of replacing or repairing it, rather than you.

http://jcr-leeds.com/haldex-servicing-gen5 I got that information when VW first changed from 40,000 miles / 4 years, then Skoda did with the YETI,s which were having failures. The oil is hygroscopic. So probably why by time, it matters not how far driven. As with Brake Fluid, VAQ Diff servicing, advice covering many, globally. Guidelines, recommendations, advice maybe more than a schedule or specification. After all there are all sorts of climatic differences, users / abusers. . As Volvo had with 20,000 miles / 2 years. As it is 3 years can be too long even for someone using the car only 5,000 miles a year but maybe as a Part Time AWD might be expected to be used as in adverse conditions. If anyone wants to save some money and ignore a Haldex Service done properly at each 3 years even if 30,000 miles has not been done they might find out that is a false economy.

Hi all, I've just put a deposit on a Moon White 18 plate Sportline 280bhp Hatchback, the last 3 of the reg are MZW, just wondering if they are on here? I'm buying it through a Skoda dealer in Horsham. The car looks standard bar black and white Skoda emblems and removal of any rear model badges. Buying it to replace my 2015 Octavia VRS estate. Excited to have something a bit more refined with a touch more power. It's going through PCP so modifications will be few and minor but looking forward to a good clean and seal, hopefully before the winter.

Possibly the button to turn off the internal alarm sensors.

Just today, another 1 hour free excess electricity session thanks to lots of wind up north (I think, was calm down south) and good solar production. Yesterday, today's and a little bit of tomorrow's driving fuel cost: 0p. In case of any power outage, just offload my home battery into EV or one EV into another. (there's a recent hacker showing unmodified Model Y energy dumping into Powerwall: https://zecar.com/reviews/tesla-model-y-bidirectional-charging-v2h) Cyber attack? My whole house has ability to run locally, I run my own Home Assistant. (recently added redundancy and achieved high availability via server clustering) China is different don't forget. they have lots of private hire NEV (new energy vehicle, currently vast majority battery) from private hire leases driven by people living in flats. Notice how the queues are mostly same cars? They rely on public chargers multiple times a day due to cars being cheap with poor range. So any charging outage means queues piling up, just like UK's 2022 petrol station queues.

There will always be one or probably several ways to get electricity in to one's EV. From 3 pin chargers to using ones own home batteries and solar and letting friends with EVs use our charging systems. If that Saudi oil runs out from the petrol station down the road the that is it until the next tanker arrives and even then it will be bought up in minutes. Electricity will get cheaper and cheaper as Europe in increasingly over producing for ever increasing periods. Another free our tomorrow and I am not home. Be ready for the next one with two home chargers and home batteries to take advantage of free and night cheap lecky.

I think you need to stop the car, turn off the engine, then turn on ignition, then press the reset for it to "take", but if this has been done, one of the ABS sensors is going dodgy. There should however be an error code for this. If not, there may be a fault with the steering angle sensor, which may need a reset, but which may not always report an error.

Yes you are right but it's impossible to translate all these without a mistake but i will try. 😃 ______________________________ Civil Liability Capital: €1300000 Civil Liability Bodily Injuries Capital: €1300000 Civil Liability Material Damage Capital: €1300000 Accident care Towing as a result of an accident Damages from an uninsured vehicle Fire Capital: €3000 Political Unrest Capital: €3000 Stoppages/Strikes Capital: €3000 Fire from Terrorist Actions Capital: €3000 Total Theft Capital: €3000 Partial Theft Capital: €3000 Sound System Theft Replacement of Damaged Locks Capital: €150 Replacement of Keys Capital: €150 Own Damages from Theft Capital: €3000 Phone theft Theft of a GPS Navigation System Damages during theft Capital: €3000 Natural phenomena Capital: €3000 Hail damage Capital: €3000 Volcano eruption Capital: €3000 Snow damage Capital: €3000 Earthquake Capital: €3000 Rental/Replacement of vehicle due to partial theft Rental/Replacement of vehicle due to total theft Roadside assistance Legal Protection Capital: €1500 Defense in criminal courts due to death or injury from a traffic accident Asserting claims for compensation in accordance with the provisions of civil liability laws Crystal breakage Capital: €1500 Sunroof Capital: €1000 Membranes/rain sensors Capital: €1000 Personal Accident Capital: €15,000 Death Capital: €15,000 Permanent Total Disability Capital: €15,000 Permanent Partial Disability Capital: % of €15,000 Medical Advice Providing Legal Advice & Out of Court Settlement

Known from videos in Youtube but never heard about it in GR. Τhe Total package?

Could possibly be translation of rear crash absorption.

Perhaps it doesn't have fronts?

This is what is happening in China and there are other similar video reports about China who actively suppress reports of fires and other accidents such as bridge, building and even tunnel collapses etc. This report also mentions many residential buildings are not allowing electric cars to be parked in their car parks. It also claims (I can't read Chinese, so unable to confirm if the signs and text backs up the audio) that there is much corruption from so-called experts in electric cars, making claims that ICE vehicles catch fire far more than electric ones, similar claims are made everywhere to be fair, but I'm not totally convinced by these claims, and it seems that the Chinese citizens are not either.

Have a look in the extras for Europe cover. You always have to study what you are buying and read what you actually get rather than assuming (as many seem to do) generally as far as I've seen it's less to buy breakdown cover with the insurance, some even include it in the policy but you have to check how basic the cover is and if it only covers Gb and NI. I always have Legal Cover included and don't go for the lowest premium unless I know they don't outsource everything to overseas call centres or the very, very dumb AI systems, the value of insurance is when you have to make a claim and how good and efficient it is, often "cheap" insurance isn't, and can be very, very expensive in the end. I can recommend going through TopCashback compare to the well-known comparison sites they have and get £45 back from TopCashback, quotes are the same or less than if you don't go through them and you get £45 back off them. - https://compare-carinsurance.topcashback.co.uk/ Good luck.

That does sound a bit rubbish; maybe a poor batch? Our 21 L&K ‘chrome’ is ok and I’ve used plenty of citrus prewashes and snowfoams.

I started my own detailing venture last year so went and got trained properly including a qualification with the International Detailing Association. Did a lot of study on the basic chemistry, and it is basic chemistry, to understand what products we use, why, what not to use and how products seemingly similar in name/type can work in different ways. I found it really interesting…and scary how many people either don’t know what they’re talking about but also those that offer a correct solution to someone but clearly don’t know why, just going with what they know.

The nrw Superb has arrived! Very happy but unsure if the creaking sunroof is common and if there is any updates or fixes?

Hi, I've always heard about the 3-year time limit. Never read any mileage limit regarding Haldex servicing. Where did you catch this information? I know you regularly refer to official Skoda recommendations, thus it'd be cool if you could share the source of this mileage limit from an official reference. 😃 Note: I think the lack of mileage limit is a non sense, and I do replace Haldex oil every 45000km (roughly similar to the 30000 miles you mention) on my Mk3. They're done in less than 3 years in my case. It would then mean I'm fully compliant to Skoda recommendations. 😎

Central vents chucking out cold air regardless has annoyed me for sometime…I end up closing them in the winter.

Very interesting and illustrative! This week I have tour around where my car detail center is, and will ask about how the ceramic options are for trim, if they have used it or not, and so on ...

Glad it’s not just me who can’t get on with them😄

So what did I buy? As a list of priorities I considered: -Space, either a decent hatch or estate -Nice interior with Android Auto and other toys -Minimum 250bhp petrol -Handle reasonably well in stock form -Reasonable costs to run and service -Low mileage (40k max) -Budget around £20k I considered all sorts, on my list was: BMW 330i F series estates Audi A4 Avants Jaguar XE R-Sport P250 Mercedes C300 estate Mercedes C43 AMG estate The car had to be either a hatch or estate, so the Jaguar was out unfortunately. It had to be interesting and relatively rare (to me) so that was the Audi out. I wanted low mileage (under 40k is possible) so the BMW was out as I couldnt find anything near this and the G series was just too pricey. It had to handle well too, which removed the C300 from the equation. Every review said it goes well in a straight line but not around corners. The C43 was left, but finding a non modified, low mileage example in estate format for under £20k was impossible. Back to the drawing board. I was browsing Autotrader and saw it! After some maths and reading reviews, I knew I'd found my next car... Late 2018 Skoda Superb Sportline. Moon White metallic, 272bhp, AWD Haldex based system, heated front seats, sunroof and DCC suspension. It came from a Skoda dealer and was up for £22k. After some conversation they gave it a full service, Haldex service and some new centre caps.

A new battery would probably be my approach.

I did a bit of googling and think that noise could be the brake recalibrating itself and measuring the pads, which it does every so often apparently. Maybe others can advise if theirs makes the noise too sometimes? It could be that yours is attempting this process every time.

Just avoid using the built in system it's inferior to Waze and Google Maps. I seldom/never use it. I prefer the fast planning & rerouting of the aforementioned apps compared to the built-in system.

I really don't understand the point of a post like this. The whole point of the forum is to SHARE stuff to the benefit of all. This post doesn't help anyone.

Well, not done "today" but a few weeks ago, but finally I managed to find some time to update my fellows about it. I had the service done, may first to the car, still in warranty so by Skoda, and being the first time I had the car there I decided to go with the flow and let them do whatever they think was to be done. I first went to ask, at around 9K km from the 1st service (at 30K km! 😱) so it had 39K km and they said "why bother, with long-life oils we do not do less that 15K km service intervals". So I went now at 44K km in an interval between summer travels. I was given a choice of oil, or bring my own, but for goodwill I preferred to let them do .... - Oil 6lt filter some plug and washer and labor - Haldex oil (I was going to mention it but the service rep beat to it) I do not think they took out the pump and clean the strainer, but is a beginning and I plan to do that soon and labor - brake fluid (same as above) and labor - air and cabin filter and labor total damage aprox 365GBP at current exchange rate. What you guys think?

maybe of interest on delivery driver/firms forums?

Today I fitted my Virtual Cockpit screen protector from Innovative Paint Protection Solutions It has clearly up 95% of the marks I had on my original screen where the previous owner likeed to put their phone 😭

What software level were you upgraded from/to? This sounds very much like a similar problem VW ID. cars have after upgrade to ID software V3.2. As the software in both cars is identical apart from the UI wrapper I'd wager it's the same fault. I had exactly the issue you describe on my ID.4. The issue on VW ID. cars is that as part of the update process, the on board charger needs to be re-booted manually. Some dealers forget to do this and cause this charging issue. The problem is that if the car goes to sleep (standby mode) while waiting for the AC charge to start, when your wall box charger asks to charge the car's on-board charger does not wake up and respond - hence "the Zappi displays "EV is preventing charging" message, The solution for ID cars is a) return to dealer for them to sort or b) pull the appropriate fuse for the on board charger controller - wait 2 mins - re-plug fuse-listen to the clicks as the OBC reboots and check its cured. Option b fixed mine. Google the issue and you should find a similar solution for the Enyaq. I'm not going to link to the ID solution in case the fuses are different layout / numbering. HTH

Summarizing the install here to hopefully help someone do this in the future on their Superb 3. The entire installation is based on @ApertureS' wonderful and informative guide for the Octavia. I will try to fill in with some details that may be useful for those who like like to have everything planned out in advance such as myself. I've listed the required parts just above, quote below: Motivation: - I initially bought a steering wheel off an Octavia 4 and I discovered the install would require a new airbag and a special LIN adapter for the scroll wheels to work so after having been through that hurdle, I decided to tone down my expectations and just stick to a wheel matching this car's generation to ensure minimum compatibility issues. Additionally, I had a hard time finding a heated steering wheel which was also flat bottom, had white stitching, had DSG paddles and was not in a terrible state so I splurged on the new OEM one. This one also allowed me to reuse my airbag as Skoda seems to have changed the models at some point (fortunately, being an early 2019 model, I had the latest one (which is flatter on the top) - I found a Superb 3 owner online who had the heated steering wheel equipped from the factory so I asked him to check what clock spring he had. Combining that information with what ApertureS mentioned in his guide, I decided to go with the one ending in 569C as it was proof enough they would work. - Got the Kufatec adapter to make things a little easier. Process: 1.VCDS backup Take a VCDS backup of the coding on your Address 08: Auto HVAC and your Address 16: Steering wheel and do a full auto scan to ensure you know what errors are new and which ones are old. My old steering wheel coding was 6014. 2. The power feed I have replaced the clock spring before on my old O2 so I was quite confident that part of the installation would be easy so I focused my attention on how to wire the new circuit. I only started taking things apart after having managed to plug the terminal in the fuse box as I knew this would be the hardest part due to very tight spacing behind the fuse box. Inspecting the fuse box I found a few that had battery feeds that led nowhere (missing equipment of some sort I suppose) one of which being fuse 47, normally used for the rear wiper, which I don't have. The fuse was ignition switched and led nowhere so I figured I stick the Kufatec terminal in there. I tried removing or dislocating the fusebox slightly with no luck... I found a guide on how to do it on a seat but it seems it is further secured on the Superb and moreover it's wrapped around more plastics and bolts that were in the way... the fuse box would not budge so the only way in was through the back... Thankfully, Purpletom had a really good tip to help with finding the right way in from the back of the fusebox - many thanks @Purpletom for this once again - it did ease things up a lot! The ground wire got hooked up to one of the securing bolts around the fuse box and the new circuit was secured with a 10A fuse (similarly to how Skoda does it in the factory - 10A fuse on the top right of the fuse box on port 2) I got the info off a guy who had a factory fitted hsw. 3. Clock spring and new wheel Removing the old bits: - turn the wheel 90 degrees right, pop the airbag from the back. - turn the wheel 90 degrees left, pop the second latch off and free the airbag. - straighten the steering wheel and disconnect the battery - give it a few minutes for safety. - lift the airbag, lift the white tab on the yellow plug and pop it out. - push the black tab on the left that connects to the steering wheel controls and push that out as well. Set the airbag aside. - Check the size of the securing bolt.... To my surprise mine was a 8.8.... I only had a 10.2 that would fit my old Octavia... Don't ask how I found the right size... This is something you can easily check before the installation by just popping out the airbag without disconnecting it. - Unscrew the bolt and remove the steering wheel. - Release the steering wheel adjustment and pull down as far as it goes then towards you as far as it comes. - Use plastic prying tools to release the top plastic cover. - Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the bottom plastic trim that are in plain sight and the 3rd one on the bottom side of the steering column - The clock spring is secured by 3 small torx bits, remove them. - Unplug the stalk connectors , airbag and steering wheel controls form the clock spring and remove the thing completely. (try not to spin it around if you plan to sell it onwards after this) Refitting the new parts: - Put the new clock spring in place and secure it with the 3 torx screws. - Connect the Kufatec T16 plug to the car's T16 plug then the Kufatec T14 plug to the clock spring - Connect the rest of the plugs to the clock spring and release by removing the red securing tab - place the bottom plastic trim over the steering column agian carefully, be mindful of the start button and how the plastics fit together and secure it with the 3 screws. - push the top plastic trim back into place nicely (first slide it in the back then click it down in place. - Place the new steering wheel on top, make sure the line markers align and screw the nut back in to secure the entire thing together. - connect the airbag to the steering wheel controls on the left. - connect the airbag to the main slipring and push the white tab back in. - push the airbag back into its place. At this point you are ready to reconnect the battery and enjoy a marvelous sight of errors, beeps and flaws. Code the new steering wheel according to this: Code your new steering wheel controller the same way as your old one. Clear all errors and see which ones come back. In my case it was the start/stop system error (with no VCDS error) and ACC error every time I push the acc stalk (with one error in the Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg) Give the car a few hours of sleep (I gave it 5 hours or so) Apparently, the ACC module goes in some sort of sleep a few hours after the car shuts down... The long hours of sleep will let the car also figure out you installed the same battery and not a new one and your start/stop system error will also disappear. Take it for a drive and test all the systems that presented errors after the retrofit: - Park assist - Lane assist - Front assist - ACC - Hill assist - Start/Stop - and of course... the heated steering wheel. Park it up agian, clear the errors wit VCDS again and at this point, you should have the same amount of errors as you had before the retrofit. I hope I covered everything here - the forum won't allow for more than 10MB of pics so I will stick to a single picture upload. Happy to help people in the future with details I may have missed when you find this relic post.

I did the installation myself on all the doors. It was not an easy task. I spent many hours thinking about it. I finally made the decision and did the installation. The door paneling needs to be removed of course. Then, removal of the plastic piece that in the best versions accepts the lighting. Carefully cutting a thin line with a dremmel and gluing the LED strip. Some photos from the "project" The inside of the card door. Must be cutted with dremmel of with a iron solder. After the removal of the plastic trim. The plastic trim Masking with tape and ready for cutting. Trim after cutting. The "gap" is almost 3mm. I glued the LED strip with 3M double side tape. I put the plastic trim back to its possition. I used a solder iron to melt the joints. This is the final result.

Honnister pass this morn ,little road through the middle of lake district mountains