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The climate control mechanism started making noise. I removed the top cover of the speaker, made a tool from a cheap endoscope and a Cilict Bang tube, lubricated the white mechanisms with silicone grease. Now the noise is gone.

As @EnterName asks, these things don't last forever. Anything you do will be short term and from the sounds of things the period will be very short. Start looking at replacements would be my advice. Unless of course you are just trying to get the car to a certain point. @Paws4Thot suggestion is not advised unless you know a friendly MOT test centre.

I've done several trips from London to Manchester on a Friday evening which have taken 6-8 hours and I do this without having a break. I feel fine and would stop if I felt tired, but sitting in stationary traffic isn't a problem (or tiring) for me and I don't need a wee every couple of hours. If I did feel tired, I could always stop at a service station for a wee nap.

Next to the Cathedral at Ypres: Gaz

Yes it is, but is not universally available to all. Its a special time of use tariff that requires a smart meter. The vast majority of people are on SVR which is 25.39 around here. Historically that is a high price. I'm on the Tracker tariff through a sleight of hand by Octopus (no smart meter) but that is still 21p most days. Still high.

Keeping up an Average speed such as above is a bit more than slipping over the speed limit, on empty roads.

Don't really intend to keep it that long. I do around 25k miles per year and I'm not sure it will still be good for nearly 400k miles? This may come as a surprise to you but there are a few people around who occasionally slip over the speed limit😉 The 500 mile journey in 8 hours includes a stopped time of about an hour in total. About 7 hours actual driving = just over 70mph average. Possibly true at 60-70 mph but above that they seem to lose efficiency pretty quick. I appreciate this is quite old but this guy did 112 miles using 71kWh in a Model S at an average speed of just over 100mph. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/discharging-at-high-speed-100-mph.32873/ My friend reckons his Model X (considerably newer) would do about 140 miles at 100mph. Obviously ICE cars also have much higher consumption at high speeds but the drop is not so steep.

@Rigor look at czech forum. Added info Cajicek for others car is great no problems atm amd suspension is without any sound in first 50km.

PS. Yes you could live with a Big Battery Car or a not big battery car with a Trickle charger. But, it matters how many miles you will be doing using that home or someones electric & how long you are going to have to charge. More important is if you can not get your car to where you can plug into a 3 pin plug then that is the Home / Work charging issue, and Public charging will be damn expensive. 51 pence Tesla charging is now the price where Tesla non Tesla charging is getting too expensive. 10 kWh costing £5.10 and getting me maybe 35 miles. Other Public Rapid charging is quite a bit more in the majority of providers. 100 miles for £2, then the next 100 miles, 30 kWh £15.30. At worst.. So 200 miles £17.30. 300 miles, £2 & 2 times £15.30 = £32.60. (300 miles @ 50 mpg petrol, 6 gallons, 140 pence a litre, £6.36 a gallon x 6 = £38.16) My home tariff now of 6.9 pence a kWh is ok. 100 miles for £2.00 with my small battery car. * I need 2 x 7 hour night time sessions to charge the car from about 10% to 100% with me doing 10 miles after the first charge to 60%. That is a 32.6 kWh battery and 28.9 kWh usable. Cheap offpeak tariff 12am -7 am.* If i had a wall box charger that would be under 6 hours of charging needed, near empty to full.

Thanks. Must admit though, as I’ve posted before, my usual bike engined transport has stabilisers at the front…(these pics are taken 25 years apart, the second one being when I first put it on the road in 1998)

Tottenham superchargers have been closed to non-Tesla from the start of this month IIRC. Overrun by taxis I suppose. So people keep saying, but gas prices are low and the wind is still blowing.... I can see gas/oil futures going up due to the wars in Ukraine and the Middle East but current feedstock prices do not seem high. Look at the price trend of petrol / diesel / heating oil over the past few weeks. Maybe I'm cynical, but I get the feeling we're being ripped off over fuel prices again.

Not found this to be true. Maygor ionity, opposite service station, few hundred metres, next to a subway, happy days. J1, M5, just off the trunk road, Starbucks and view of the Hawthornes Baggies ground, happy days. Now TESLA putting v4 chargers at services ie Frankley, Reading, cheaper charging prices and very convient. Not that I need to charge hardly ever so just enjoy my sub 2p per mile home charging.

The other thing to remember here is that filling stations have had many years to evolve and as they don't consume much power can be located almost anywhere and so by default are normally to found on the busiest roads such as main roads, bypasses etc whereas charging hubs need to be close to a national grid power line and so will tend to be off the beaten track a bit.

google maps has a gps speedo function, so it's easy to check the accuracy of the speedo. I doubt 225/55R17 would cause the speedo to under-read.

So.. update on this as it may help someone.. as i have a couple of years warranty left on mine, i enquired at skoda garage because: radio was getting too frisky and turning on even on cooler days when car was parked up. when driving you would on occasion have to battle with the infotainment using the steering wheel volume control to turn it down. managed on most occasions to get videos of it happening and i think the winner was that you could hear the ‘touch’ clicks as it was ramping the volume up or randomly selecting things which made me think it was more mechanical than software.. took a month to get an appointment but all credit to the dealership - they said as soon as they saw the vids that they agreed it was a physical thing and liaised with Skoda head honchos to get it replaced.. initially they were saying it would be software but as mentioned, the hearing of the clicks was a clincher to change their minds.. so if you have this issue and you have some sort of warranty on the car, get vids of it and make sure you can hear the clicks. not a single issue since they replaced the unit.. i’ve not checked what software/hardware revisions it has now compared to previous but i can check and post if need be.

Dave takes it on spouts a lot of nonsense half the time. AT first I thought he was quite good but the more I watched the more I realised he was often spouting his own opinions which weren't always accurate.

And yet I’m on my fourth Škoda from 2004 and none of them have displayed rusting rear discs, just the odd NORMAL light rusting when not driven for a couple of days. Every single car I’ve driven from Audi to Peugeot to Ford has had this (non) issue. A quick drive applying the brake pedal now and again will resolve it. It’s superficial surface rust, I don’t get why people are getting their knickers in a twist over it. I’m coming to the conclusion that I must have a really hard life if this is all people have to worry about, especially when I read posts like this. Jesus. First world problems 😂😂

TBH I don't know. I contacted @Eddie-NL via PM through this forum. Problem is he rarely logs in nowadays. He does have an Ebay site edward1975. I had to have my cluster replaced as it was beyond repair. As @Golf-Fiend said above using an online repair service probably is the cheapest option. If it was only LED's I'd have offered to do it.

Ooh I'll guess i30 or Tipo

Yeah, or maybe central nervous system! 🙂 If you've been experiencing any electrical gremlins hopefully this will solve the issue...

why do you think we make professional drivers follow these rules? (It's not because they drive different vehicles, it's because it is not safe to push the boudaries) You must take breaks from driving during each working day. The number and length of breaks you need to take depend on how long you work for in a day. If you work for less than 8 hours and 30 minutes, you must take a break after 5 hours and 30 minutes of continuous driving. The break must last for 30 minutes or more. If you work for at least 8 hours and 30 minutes, you must not drive for more than 7 hours and 45 minutes during this time. You must also take breaks that add up to at least 45 minutes. If you work for longer than 8 hours and 30 minutes, you must take an extra break of at least 30 minutes, in addition to the 45 minutes. You must take the extra break at some point between working for 8 hours and 30 minutes and the end of your shift. You must not take the extra break immediately before finishing your shift. or as the RAC puts it While drivers are not bound by it outside the UK, Rule 91 of the Code states that a break of at least 15 minutes should be taken every two hours – with regular breaks essential in keeping a driver focused, alert and, above all, safe on the road. https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/rac-research-reveals-safety-risk-how-long-do-you-drive-without-stopping/

It's basically the interface between all the different CAN networks (HVAC controls, ECU, infotainment, brakes etc) letes all the different systems 'talk' to each other. So fairly important on a car like ours with all its electronics.

I didnt describe a significant diversion, the Shell station in Livingston is closed for rebuild, it's expensive anyway, I didn't pass any other filling stations before Costco Edinburgh which is just off the bypass. Hardly significant, it was just the first PFS I passed. But still it took 24 minutes extra on my journey to fill up. Lucky you being able to fill up before you leave home. I don't have diesel stored at home so it's not an option. Scalextric cars can't travel more than 1cm from electricity though so are of limited use. They're also too small to transport humans.

It would be fantastic if from now to 2030 or 2035 the ICE vehicles become better built and have greater longevity. Not sure that the new compulsory equipment and software are going to mean they are though. There are 2 Threads started today on new Skodas and no dipstick. No big deal as many manufacturers / engines have been that way for decades. But this is VW Engines in Skodas so lets see when the 'I have a low oil warning and i have only done 5,000 miles' posts start. It will be good if the new owners check the Screen and find the Oil level and top up before any Low Oil warnings. I will be interested to see when the First 'Top up oil messages' pop up on the 1.5 TSI PHEV,s and the other engines & how much oil needs added and if people can do as is required and not overfill.

Yes that's what I tend to do, seems to work well. Yes sure, I wouldn't have a problem with taking it to perhaps around 200k but I think late 300's is probably pushing it a bit... I don't want to have it making regular trips to the garage even if it doesn't require expensive repairs.

its not so much about the speed (although there is a sweet spot) as use of the accelerator which is why IMHO on a motorway run especially ACC in Eco Mode is probably the most fuel efficient way to make progress

From last few price changes over last 12 months or so, I feel Tesla price changes are slightly ahead of Ofgem price-cap. They dropped their rates a few months before price cap dropping, they have now increased slightly just before price-cap raise 10%. No comment on whether we are being ripped off, that's beyond my pay-grade and I can only offer similar gut feeling. I do know my extended family member from California told me 7p/kWh is very cheap.

^^^ That is the UK Government and England for you, all the people, all the money and poor infrastructure. Tell me where people fill up their fuel between Blairgowrie & Ballater if they are spending time going to Deeside and the Braemar area if the Filling station is out of fuel? But then worse than that is the crappy EV charging between these towns with the chargers in Braemar. Ballater is hopeless really and Aboyne is just so so. Transport Scotland, Scottish Government, & others just pathetic & clueless really for the requirements of locals, businesses and tourists as far as EV,s.

I think that's pretty clear at this stage although I guess I'll buy one someday, but only once it fits my needs. Unless I'm forced to earlier which is looking quite likely at present...

Whilst all eyes were on the similar sized Elroq, Skoda has quietly issued a new brochure for Karoq Prices from £29,775 to £42,665 (before adding options) Just 3 spec levels, 3 or 4 engine variations (11 versions in total) 8 are 2wd petrols, 1 is 4wd petrol, 2 are 4wd diesels https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6

Again, this type of thing is often Standard on other manufacturers - particularly at the Karoq price/sector

@domhnall @Dieselgate - I've had to do a significant diversion as described literally once in 40 years, when I didn't fill up before leaving, and came off route into an area that was suffering a power cut so had to drive more off route miles than anticipated to reach fuel pumps with electric power. Dom, do you see the common factor between filling ICE and Scalextric cars here?

@celli its happening with almodt every car those mistales and failures from production start. Just relax and enjoy they will fix it…hopefully soon

Like @carefree have never had to change discs on my cars for many years. Sold my Ford Focus when it was 10 years old and with over 70K on its original discs. Our 6 year old Karoq is on its original discs and my nearly 2 year old Kamiq showing no issues.

Yes he's very aware of pre-conditioning the battery and the optimal state of battery to charge etc😉 Sometimes you can't always be too choosy about how much battery you have left when you get to a charger though and in this case it had more to do with the charger than the car. Your analogy about filling a jug with water isn't the best tbh as if you compare it to filling a car with petrol which is more what we are talking about, the pump fills it at pretty much the same rate until it cuts out which is pretty instantaneous (or if you stop yourself before the tank is full). As Graham says, I do find it odd that you had to do such a large diversion to fill up, I've never done such a diversion in my life to date. The 'filling up while you sleep' is a compelling point but in my opinion doesn't have a lot of substance to it. Whilst many say that you leave every day with a 'full tank' I would argue that this is far from the truth. My Superb (mostly used for motorway cruising) does 750-850 miles between fills and even the best EVs will not do more than around 250 miles at highway speeds (less in winter) so I think it's truer to say that with an EV you start every day with 1/4 - 1/3 of a tank which doesn't quite have the same appeal. Plus you have the faff of plugging in and unplugging every day as well. I guess I will have to get an EV one day but I really hope the technology improves very quickly as for me what is currently available just doesn't cut it and that is the main reason why I really resent the way the government are effectively forcing us into it. Just let people make the move when they decide it works for them.

That's what they keep telling everybody... However, since the car is not always behaving like that, I doubt that their answer is also the right one.

Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Skoda has now said there is a major software failure. So far they have taken 10 weeks to fix. Why launch a vehicle untested?

Love to meet the kind person decided to put it under the battery box making it so easy to check and top up the levels 🙃

DEPOSIT TAKEN, SO PROVISIONALLY SOLD

Warped disc maybe.

Not possible as far as 8 know. One of the views does show basic directions and street name though.

I'm sure that most people that comment or complain about this is actually talking about something a lot more serious corrosion wise than the "overnight red rust" that you are referring to, certainly our daughter's 2019 Arona rear discs looks a quite nasty dark colour and it would take skimming/grinding to return them to "normal/acceptable", same for our older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra rear discs - its nasty looking rear discs certainly helps it get through brake pads. My wife's 2015 Polo's rear discs did look not too good for the past year - then a rear calliper seized and caused a bit extra wear in a rear pad, so as well as replacing that rear calliper and pads, I also considered that a rear disc change was required, so it now has Pagid rear discs. While carrying out a brake clean up at this year's service, I discovered that a "good looking from the outer side" front disc, was really not too good on its inner face, so they and the pads got changed as well to Pagid. My 2011 Audi S4 is still on its second set of brake discs, originals replaced under warranty for causing vibration the paperwork claims, these still VW Group discs are still clean and smooth. It almost looks like it can be a luck of the draw as to which quality/brand or maybe just the actual manufacturer of brake discs supplied to VW Group that causes this variation in "survivability" in service.

Should probably be checked out by the dealer at the very least.

Ask a Private Hire driver about garages who will do a DPFectony and remap.

Hi, yes I do. Templates + plastic inserts for £50. Would prefer collection from around br2, but can send - just need to sort out the package 🙂

Yes, low revs under slight load, barely any throttle opening can exacerbate DMF rattle, usually in the higher gears though, say slowing to 30mph, an old DMF has you changing down earlier than you might otherwise but it gives it an easier time. If you have just done some work then theres a good chance it may be related so for you thats a good thing. You can usually feel a failing DMF by kickback through the clutch pedal under certain conditions.

How does someone select inappropriate gears or select gears inappropriately with the gear lever? What does that have to do with the other elbow? How should ones body coordinate with a medical practitioner? The suggestion of physical restraints for arms and head, was that intended for another forum 😁

Yes, you would use a bespoke tool designed for flashing, for example KESS or KTAG. For very old cars you can use a very cheap Galletto cable. Reading the map is only the first stage, the second question is how to actually access and change the map - this is the incredibly difficult part Maps are literally just hexadecimal - the numbers 0 to 9 and A to F. To be able to take nothing more than this and turn into something understandable you need software for remapping, I.e Winols. For the old diesels that had a EDC15 ECU, there was a free tuning program, that in combination with a free 1.9PD tuning guide online, would quite easily let you experiment with tuning at home. I had a Fabia vRS that I would constantly tune and then log and then tune. using a website like ecuconnections you can have other people review your map and give an opinion pretty much all ECU programming software is expensive and even then you are not done, you need a DAMOS to be able to identify all of the maps on the ECU and adjust the values. sure, you can purchase cheap maps online, but most of them are more of a decalibration rather than a performance remap. A lot of people think they are getting something decent when they go to a place with a dyno, but most of the time they take a generic map, make very minor changes and then call it a custom map, a proper custom map takes hours of work if you are only interested in improving your car rather than getting into tuning, then the best option would be to go to someone like Celtic tuning that can come to a home address or work and flash a map. REVO are absolutely brilliant so if you have a local dealer, they are the best option.