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Got the car back this afternoon and it has been fully updated. The gearbox software has also been done, the F533 module is now correctly coded, virtual pedal is working correctly and infotainment system is now running 1969. It's such a shame that it takes a series of strongly worded complaints to Skoda customer service to get anything done & get anywhere with faults like this. But they're resolved now and I'm very grateful to Skoda customer service for helping with my problems.

If you mean re climate change - well... yes clearly things are changing and have changed over the last 100 years or so, as to be expected in any developing world. Some of that will be due to man-made influence and some due to other things, such as Solar Max and the like potentially beyond our control. As to my thoughts - well... I already do what I can on a local level - by reducing, reusing and recycling, not buying stuff I don't need (like a new car every couple of years) and making stuff last the absolute longest I can by repairing as a preference wherever possible (thus avoiding initial manufacturing impacts) - all alongside making positive choices about my energy use. As for what the others in the collective 'we' think should be done - well... you'd have to ask them as I can only answer for myself

The vent plug should only need to blow out in the event of overcharging - so I stand by my comment that you need to get the charging system looked at - first step is to check the voltage with a multimeter with the engine running, if it's over 15V then you definitely have a problem.

You might be up for a record for the oldest non-spam thread resurrection

Opposite way is it not, ET46 will be 6 mm closer to suspension strut than ET40. Also standard wheel would be 6.5” so 7” wheel might make it even closer.

I would disagree that the morality of those is questionable, they all encourage people to help improve/protect the environment and since we are officially in a climate emergency I would argue measures such as those are morally required, definitely not questionable.

So good you’ve got your car back and sorted. A real shame that the Škoda brand is [further] tarnished by shoddy workmanship & attitudes of [some of] their dealers. Hopefully the OTA updates won’t screw it up again and you confidence & enjoyment in the car returns.

So update went to the dealership and that was a clown show …told them my car was a petrol 245 vrs gave them my registration number and after leaving the car for a day with them got a call to say that they couldn’t do the regen as it was a petrol and that they thought the engine oil could get too warm as they originally thought it was a diesel..and so advised me to blast it down the motorway which I already told them I had done. wanted to charge me 168 for the privilege of having their technician figure out in an hr for me that it was a petrol car that I owned and not even carry out any diagnostics after some threatening to take the matter to trading standards car was released to me with no charge but at least I got a free clean and vacuume on my car then tock the car to an Independent vw Garrage whose main diagnostic technician was an ex Skoda employee told me these things have a common issue sometimes they get stuck in regen mode even after regen was completed hocked the car to diagnostic machine laptop driove it around for 1/2 he looked at the particulate levels graph and engine out put graph which were below what should trigger a regen and deactivated it then ran it fir another 2 hrs to ensure light would not come on again and said on your way told me no charge as he didn’t do much and enjoyed the drive in the car told me nout yo worry about not bad I think 😃👌

Hi guys, just small update for the temporary solution, taking off fuse 22 didn't work (by the way it is fuse 22 under the steering wheel compartment not the engine bay...), but disconnecting the battery for some 20 minutes DID WORK (just take off + side, no need to disconnect both poles). Now everything works as it should, most likely the issue will come back at some point, but then you just repeat. Dealer said that Skoda supposed to give the software update until year end... Not really helpful, so if you have the chance do the temporary fix yourself then you can at least use the car as it was intended. After the battery reconnection some yellow lights came up but disappeared after some meters of driving, this is normal and also mentioned in the user manual. Happy fixing and thanks for all the help.

You seem to be confused about the points I am making and inferring that I'm a climate change denier???... There is a scientific consensus - yes - but there is also clear evidence from within the scientific community itself that not ALL change is man-made and that SOME is natural - eg per the NASA / NOAA info. and, for example, naturally occuring events like volcanic eruptions. The Solar Max element may be a small proportion (10% or so prior to any exacerbating effects we don't yet have a clear understanding of - as you yourself pointed out) but that doesn't nullify the fact that it exists. Stating that SOME is natural is therefore not misinformation at all... but to ignore the natural impacts and simply state '100% is man made' IS misinformation. You note that 'the scientific community say 100% of climate change is man made' - but all I have said in this thread is that's not factually correct, as other parts of the scientific community are saying that some is naturally occurring... You are free to disagree but I would suggest that it is that '100% is man made' approach that is actually contributing to the general public not being wholly accepting of the scientific consensus. There needs to be an honest approach that acknowledges some natural impacts and expresses things in a way that doesn't catastrophise quite so much - as a section of the public have simply turned off from it all as a result and once that has happened it's hard to get them back.

That's not an accurate summary, climate change has happened over the billions of years that Earth has existed, from the much wamer climate when the dinosaurs roamed the Earth (with CO2 levels as high as 6%) and there is documented evidence of climate change in the middle ages (a warming event) and in the 17th(?) Century there was the little Ice Age when the River Thames froze over. What is well accepted is that post industrial emissions have created a man made warming event - but it is not the only warming event that has happened nor possibly the largest warming event that has ever happened.

See above re what I'm doing in that cause and what I try and pass on to others in respect of approach. Feel free to do what you think is appropriate in a similar manner - I shan't stop you. Other than that feel free to continue referencing documents - as I'm sure others will with info that possibly counters some of them - so that people can be convinced one way or the other. You see I don't think we are actually at opposite ends of the spectrum - the difference between you and me is probably more to do with our view on the 'scale' of the 'problem'.

More important will be to get Aluminium foil hats made in time for intense solar radiation or super nova.

There could possibly be a date stamp on the top of negative terminal = WW.YY.

It was never an option on the TDI models as far as I known. Pre-facelift 230 TSI and facelift 245 TSI.

Just on that subject I spotted this today tucked away from general view in the news: NASA, NOAA: Sun Reaches Maximum Phase in 11-Year Solar Cycle - NASA Science Space Weather Impacts On Climate | NOAA / NWS Space Weather Prediction Center

To be honest that's pretty good... It could have been a lot worse! Just a pity it's ruined by all the nannying tech that's now mandatory.

Got my car back today with a fully updated infotainment system running 1969. No glitches seems a bit slower, but smoother.

I have never used one so do not know how good they are but you can get a variety of fibreglass pen bushes, that you use on that corrosion first then use a spray electrical contact cleaner and when that has dried away use something like Contralube 770 to offer more protection. - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/contralube-770-the-terminal-connector

rainesh might know?

i know nothing of smartlink activation

Finally: I am now in the possession of a broken throttle body ...... I'm going to open it up and see if it can be repaired. If it needs replacement gears or springs if anyone has a URL for a service kit could they ping it below Finally Finally: Thank you to the forum for keeping me and my brother sane with good advice ....... greatly appreciated 😁👍

Even though climate control uses a feedback loop and is totally automatic you will find yourself setting the temperature a lot higher in winter than in summer. Forget the number and just turn it up and down as required to make yourself comfortable.

Mine was much-much worst not only in the MAP but also in the 2 plugs of the ECU. A thoroughly cleaning and a contact cleaner spray or electrical grease is a ''must''.

Well that lasted a long time... No virtual pedal again. It has worked 3 times and stopped working again. Tried new battery in the keys and still doesn't work and it's showing as active in the infotainment system. 🤔

Beware of using those, you don't know what changes they are making and because Skoda make many running changes you cannot be sure they will do what you want on your car - there have been many posts on here where owners have used one of those and it's caused unwanted side effects. IMHO always do it the manual way making the changes directly yourself, then if something does go wrong you know how to revert it.

This could be an ABS fault.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Strongly suggest you get the battery tested, preferably on a high-load discharge test. Even if the engine appears to be starting OK, a failing battery is very often the cause of this type of problem. Does your automatic stop/start work normally?

Glad to help man still getting email notifications! Yea some of the newer seats aren’t that nice looking. I stuck with a set of Octavia VRS FL black lines and then made them heated. As regards using other seats wiring will be the first issue the second is you’ll have to modify the rear seats to fit so that it all matches, in particular the side parts as the other cars will have different shapes. Oh in regards mods, I’ve done loads! Have still some to do including engine work, maxidot cluster and vent illumination wheels like the superb. I’ve done LK door handle lights, footwell lights, 10 inch CarPlay radio, wireless charging, FL climate control, FL heated, puddle lights, electrically folding, and dimming exterior mirrors, Touareg Interior mirror (red lights shine on gearstick), triple rear dome light, and complete LED bulb upgrade (and I mean every bulb is led).

You can buy it a 3 VIN version and purchase an extension to 10 VINs or unlimited - depending on your need. Software updates are free for as long as you own a genuine VCDS cable (so there's no reason not to keep it updated) - current cables are the HEX-V2 (USB only) and HEX-NET (USB and WiFi).

I have exactly the same issue, when its in slow moving traffic, the switch between regen and drive seems to be very harsh and jerky, however, my other half has a 2021 Passat GTE and that doesn't have the same jerky issue that I have in my Octavia, even in slow moving traffic it is pretty much smooth as silk when transitioning between regen and drive.

An easy way to check the ground/earth is to use a sufficiently thick jump cable from the battery negative terminal to a good earth point on the engine, if the engine starts quicker/better this way then you know you do not have a good earth connection to the engine from the battery and/or chassis. Even if this test makes no difference you still want to check the earth wires and cables in case they are intermittent. Before putting the engine back into the engine bay is a good time to remove inspect and clean (or replace as required) the engine and battery main earth cables. Good luck.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Pretty sure there would be no issue. IIRC ET46 will stand out 6mm further from the suspension than ET40. Take a look at wheel website 'Will They Fit' and input original and proposed data. You should advise your insurance of the change.

Have you checked engine's grounding wire? Sounds like if the engine movement randomly connected and disconnected it.

No the light is beautifully dry and ready to be sealed against water ingress. I have ordered the silicone sealant, but I have a thought that some silicone grease might be better, as it's a more fixable solution after completion. I can easily wipe it off and re-apply, whereas the silicone sealant is not easy to sort out if it fails or turns black with water mould. But potentially it's a less permanent solution. I suppose I could put an initial layer of sealant on the joint around the lamp unit, then if it fails, apply a top coat of the silicone grease. There's one awkward crevice that will be difficult to seal neatly and completely.

I'd guess that the "rolled" sealing washer will form a seal at a lower tightening torque than the flat sealing washers - okay the "rolled" sealing washer should only be used once and if you're careful the flat sealing washer can be reused as many people have found/done. The sumps on many of these TSI engines are alloy, so achieving a good seal at a lower torque is desirable I'd think - though the lower sump pan plate on my 2011 Audi S4 is steel, and it's correct drain plug seal is again, a "rolled" sealing washer so - ?? Either way, a competent DIY "oil changer" should be able to deal with using either without damaging the sump threads.

Yap I'll check all cables 👌

Park assist used to be standard in the UK on the vRS but was dropped during the semiconductor shortage...

EVERY time (even after a 30sec key out moment..) i get into the new van i have to - fob on the tracker the company isnt allowed use the data from.. turn off the lane departure steering turn off the collision braking and steering turn off the soeed warning bong - its limited to indicated 124/125kph which is gps 119kph and still bings at me on the 120kph motorway..) turn off the stop start (it annoys me) turn off the "driver alerts" that tell you when youve been driving 15mins you might need a break.. or if you roll over a road marking avoiding some rubbish.. its ridiculous 🤬

I think you need a newer version of VCDS and Cable. Your vehicle appears to be in transport mode too. Hard to tell, the cable might be reading the results incorrectly.

Hi both Thanks so much for the advice. I whipped the lights out and bumper off for the 4th time and removed the smaller gearbox. As you can see, the cable had slipped off the cam and so whilst it was pulling up it wasn’t actuating the other cable. Unit was a bit of a pig to separate. The red bit that had snapped off appeared to be some kind of stopper to stop the cam rotating too far back and may have caused the cable to come off? No visible damage to the cam pulley itself so refuted the cable and all now works! 👍 Posting as much for any future visitors as to say thanks.

Answers to both are probably contained within the pinned post at the top of this forum page.

Cables, wires, connectors (including all earths) all need to be in good or reasonable condition all clean, secure and protected, For diagnosis of an electrical/electronic and/or starting problem you are best to have the 12v battery fully charged and in a good state of heath and connection(s) or at very least reasonable in all. As proven by the corrasion you have highlighted in your photo, corrosion like that in various places could be the cause of your problem - all needs to be clean, secure and protected (otherwise the corrosion may return) All sensor need to be in good or reasonable condition and correct for the specific vehicle (or engine if engine change). Just because a part is new doesn't rule out it possibly being faulty or perhaps incorrect for vehicle/engine. For cars of this age they can be fastidious about the sensors fitted. I remember well an owner oh here having problems starting the engine (in very cold) and all other posters, including me, thought the starter motor sounded fine in his video but it was the starter at fault. Now I am not saying either of your starters are at faulty, I could not know over the internet anyway, but if the fitting or wiring to it, or anywhere else has an issue it could present this yes/no to starting the engine. You need to do proper diagnostics, using your eyes, ears, nose, feel, taste, brain / common sense and use of any other diagnostic tools you can get or make. For electrics on starting the engine you could start at the battery and go forward from there, a multimeter would be handy (as might be a scan tool) but the previously mentioned diagnostics tools are needed regardless. Another person with you might notice something obvious you have missed, often these problems can relate to something simple and basic that has ben overlooked or ignored or not checked, or not double/treble-checked or thoroughly enough. Something like a bit of crud/corrosion on the inside of a battery terminal clamp if missed will still play up even with a change of battery (and (I am not saying this is your problem, how could I). Either follow previous suggestions or start a clear path of diagnostics and stick with that path and double and treble check as required and make no assumptions. There may be more than one issue combined or separately contributing to the issue so if you want to know the cause(s) then do not be changing more than one part at once and do not assume that an existing or replaced part was fully working correctly even if it was working or that it was fully correctly fitted. Check and cross -reference any existing parts are correct and working correctly, or not, before putting on a new same part and how it is fitted. Good luck.

The tow bar release is entirely mechanical so no coding would ever fix that. youll need to check if the cable that goes from the handle is moving the small gearbox then the next cable to the actual tow bar. the led colour is just a micro switch to tell you green means it’s locked either stowed or securely out. and red means it’s not secure in either of these positions

A very nice Alpha Spider 1.6

Except that as an untaxed car it shouldn't actually be being driven on the road... I know technically you are correct but it's perverse...

And I'm Back!

The shut off code tells you why the compressor has been disabled, assuming this is what happens after 30 minutes running. That information should be very helpful in fixing it. Codes are in that link to Ross-tech forums that I gave earlier. Measuring value group 2, field 1 is apparently where the shut off code is found.

After checking the light switch, the ignition switch is next to check - it's a common failure point. Here's the reversing light switch: