Leaderboard

Last piece went on the roof today.

Engine bay large fuses № name of the main electrical equipment nominal value purpose/detail terminal 1 - fuse 1 on fuse holder A -SA1- 125A - power supply terminal 30 30a 2 - fuse 2 on fuse holder A -SA2- 400A - generator with voltage regulator -CX1- 30a 3 - fuse 3 on fuse holder A -SA3- 80A - Power steering control unit -J500- 30a 4 - fuse 4 on fuse holder A -SA4- 80A - power supply terminal 30 30a 5 - fuse 5 on fuse holder A -SA5- 50A - Radiator fan control unit -J293- 30a Engine bay regular fuses, since July 2018 № name of the main electrical equipment nominal value purpose/detail terminal F1 - fuse 1 on fuse holder B -SB1- 25A - ABS control unit -J104- 30a F2 - fuse 2 on fuse holder B -SB2- 40A - ABS control unit -J104- (for vehicles without pedestrian protection system) 30a 60A - ABS control unit -J104- (for vehicles with pedestrian protection system) F3 - fuse 3 on fuse holder B -SB3- 15A - Engine control unit -J623- (for petrol engines) 87a 30A - Engine control unit -J623- (for diesel engines) F4 - fuse 4 on fuse holder B -SB4- 5A - Engine electronics, low heating output relay -J359- , high heating output relay -J360- , automatic glow plug timing control unit -J179- (for diesel engines), radiator fan control unit -J293- 87a 10A - Engine electronics (for petrol engines), radiator fan control unit -J293- F5 - fuse 5 on fuse holder B -SB5- 10A - Power supply relay for engine components -J757- , engine electronics 87a 7.5A - engine electronics (for engine letter code DHFA) - not occupied (for engine code CHZD, DKRF, CZDA, DADA) F6 - fuse 6 on fuse holder B -SB6- 7.5A - Brake pedal switch -F47- 87a F7 - fuse 7 on fuse holder B -SB7- 7.5A - Coolant shut-off valve -N82- , gearbox coolant valve -N488- , transmission oil cooling pump -V478- (for engine code CJSA, DLBA, DKTB, DKZA) 87a 10A - engine electronics (for engine code CHZD, DKRF, CZDA, DADA, DHFA, DGTE, CRVC, DFFA, DJGA) F8 - fuse 8 on fuse holder B -SB8- 10A - Lambda probe -G39-, lambda probe after catalytic converter -G130-, NOx sensor control unit -J583-, NOx sensor 2 control unit -J881- (for engine codes CHZD, DKRF, CZDA, CWVA, DADA, DHFA, DGTE, DFFA, DJGA) 87a 15A - Lambda probe -G39-, lambda probe after catalytic converter -G130- (for engine code CJSA, DLBA, DKTB, DKZA) F9 - fuse 9 on fuse holder B -SB9- 10A - engine electronics (for engine code CJSA, DLBA, DKTB, DKZA) 87a 20A - ignition (for engine code CHZD, DKRF, CWVA, DADA, DHFA, CZDA) F10 - fuse 10 on fuse holder B -SB10- 15A - Fuel pump control unit -J538- , fuel pump relay -J17- (for petrol engines without all-wheel drive) 87a 20A - Fuel pump control unit -J538- (for diesel engines and for the pressure pump code DKZA with all-wheel drive) F11 - fuse 11 on fuse holder B -SB11- 40A - heating element of additional air heater -Z35- 87a F12 - fuse 12 on fuse holder B -SB12- 40A - heating element of additional air heater -Z35- 87a F13 - fuse 13 on fuse holder B -SB13- 30A - Windscreen heating relay -J47- 30a F14 - fuse 14 on fuse holder B -SB14- 30A - Relay 2 heated windshield -J611- 30a F15 - fuse 15 on fuse holder B -SB15- 15A - Horn relay -J413- , high-tone horn -H2- , low-tone horn -H7- 30a F16 - fuse 16 on fuse holder B -SB16- 15A - fuel pump relay -J17- 30a 20A - Power supply relay for engine components -J757- 10A - Gas shut-off valve relay -J908- F17 - fuse 17 on fuse holder B -SB17- 7.5A - Main relay -J271- , Engine control unit -J623- , ABS control unit -J104- , Heated windscreen relay -J47- 30a F18 - fuse 18 on fuse holder B -SB18- 5A - Diagnosis of the data bus interface -J533- (for vehicles without independent heating / without start-stop system) 30a - Battery control and monitoring unit -J367- (for vehicles with independent heating / with start-stop system) F19 - fuse 19 on fuse holder B -SB19- 30A - Windscreen wiper motor control unit -J400- 30a F20 - fuse 20 on fuse holder B -SB20- 7.5A - Anti-theft device sound signal -H8- 30a F21 - fuse 21 on fuse holder B -SB21- 15A - mechatronics of the dual clutch transmission -J743- (for vehicles with dual clutch transmission 0GC, 0D9) 30a 30A - mechatronics of the dual clutch transmission -J743- (for vehicles with dual clutch transmission 0CW), automatic transmission control unit -J217- (for vehicles with 6-speed automatic transmission 09G) F22 - fuse 22 on fuse holder B -SB22- 5A - Engine control unit -J623- 50 F23 - fuse 23 on fuse holder B -SB23- 30A - starter -B- 50 F24 - fuse 24 on fuse holder B -SB24- 40A - heating element of additional air heater -Z35- 87a F25 - fuse 25 on fuse holder B -SB25- - F26 - fuse 26 on fuse holder B -SB26- - F27 - fuse 27 on fuse holder B -SB27- - F28 - fuse 28 on fuse holder B -SB28- - F29 - fuse 29 on fuse holder B -SB29- - F30 - fuse 30 on fuse holder B -SB30- - F31 - fuse 31 on fuse holder B -SB31- 15A - Brake drive vacuum pump -V192- (for engine code CHZD, DKRF) 87a 20A - Brake drive vacuum pump -V192- (for engine code DADA, DHFA) F32 - fuse 32 on fuse holder B -SB32- - F33 - fuse 33 on fuse holder B -SB33- 30A - Additional hydraulic pump 1 transmission oil -V475- 30a F34 - fuse 34 on fuse holder B -SB34- 15A - Cross lock control unit -J647- 30a F35 - fuse 35 on fuse holder B -SB35- - F36 - fuse 36 on fuse holder B -SB36- - F37 - fuse 37 on fuse holder B -SB37- 20A - Additional heater control unit -J364- 30a F38 - fuse 38 on fuse holder B -SB38- - Interior fuses, since July 2018 № name of the main electrical equipment nominal value purpose/detail terminal F1 - fuse 1 on fuse holder C -SC1- - F2 - fuse 2 on fuse holder C -SC2- - F3 - fuse 3 on fuse holder C -SC3- - F4 - fuse 4 on fuse holder C -SC4- 10A - heated steering wheel -Z36- 30a F5 - fuse 5 on fuse holder C -SC5- 7.5A - diagnostics of the data bus interface -J533- 30a F6 - fuse 6 on fuse holder C -SC6- 5A - Vehicle interior monitoring device sensor -G273- , vehicle tilt sensor -G384- 30a F7 - fuse 7 on fuse holder C -SC7- 10A - Rear window heating relay -J9- , Heater control unit -J65- , Air conditioning control unit -J301- , Climate control system control unit -J255- , Preselector sensor control unit -J587- , Independent heater radio receiver -R64- , Tiptronic system switch -F189- 30a F8 - fuse 8 on fuse holder C -SC8- 7.5A - 16-pin plug connection -T16b- , on diagnosis socket, air humidity sensor -G355- , front left door contour light -L251- , front right door contour light -L252- , rear left door contour light -L253- , rear right door contour light -L254- air humidity, rain and light recognition sensor -G823- , headlight switch -E1- , control unit for cornering light and headlight range adjustment -J745- 30a F9 - fuse 9 on fuse holder C -SC9- 15A - All-wheel drive control unit -J492- 30a F10 - fuse 10 on fuse holder C -SC10- 10A - Multimedia system control unit -E380- 30a F11 - fuse 11 on fuse holder C -SC11- 40A - Vehicle electrical system control unit -J519- 30a F12 - fuse 12 on fuse holder C -SC12- 20A - Information electronics control unit 1 -J794- 30a F13 - fuse 13 on fuse holder C -SC13- 25A - Front left seat belt switch control unit -J854- (for left-hand drive vehicles) 30a - Front right seat belt switch control unit -J855- (for right-hand drive vehicles) F14 - fuse 14 on fuse holder C -SC14- 40A - Fresh air fan control unit -J126- 30a F15 - fuse 15 on fuse holder C -SC15- 10A - Electronic steering column lock control unit -J764- 30a F16 - fuse 16 on fuse holder C -SC16- 5A - Two-way signal amplifier for mobile radio station -J984-, compartment with interface for connecting mobile phone -R265- 30a F17 - fuse 17 on fuse holder C -SC17- 5A - control unit in dash panel insert -J285- , control unit for emergency call module and communication unit -J949- 30a F18 - fuse 18 on fuse holder C -SC18- 7.5A - rear view camera -R189- 30a F19 - fuse 19 on fuse holder C -SC19- 7.5A - Access and Starting System Interface -J965- 30a F20 - fuse 20 on fuse holder C -SC20- 5A - Steering column electronics control unit -J527- 30a F21 - fuse 21 on fuse holder C -SC21- 10A - Control unit for adjustable attenuation electronics -J250- 30a F22 - fuse 22 on fuse holder C -SC22- 15A - Trailer detection control unit -J345- 30a F23 - fuse 23 on fuse holder C -SC23- 20A - Convertible roof control unit -J245- , sunblind control unit -J394- 30a F24 - fuse 24 on fuse holder C -SC24- 40A - Vehicle electrical system control unit -J519- 30a F25 - fuse 25 on fuse holder C -SC25- 30A - Door control unit, driver's side -J386- , rear left electric window motor -V26- (for left-hand drive vehicles) 30a - Door control unit, front passenger side -J387- , rear left power window motor -V26- (for right-hand drive vehicles) F26 - fuse 26 on fuse holder C -SC26- 25A - Vehicle electrical system control unit -J519- (for vehicles with seat heating) 30a F27 - fuse 27 on fuse holder C -SC27- 30A - Vehicle electrical system control unit -J519- 30a F28 - fuse 28 on fuse holder C -SC28- 25A - Trailer detection control unit -J345- 30a F29 - fuse 29 on fuse holder C -SC29- 10A - Pumping device for dosing reducing agent -GX19- 30a F30 - fuse 30 on fuse holder C -SC30- 25A - Rear seat heating control unit -J786- 30a F31 - fuse 31 on fuse holder C -SC31- - not busy F32 - fuse 32 on fuse holder C -SC32- 7.5A - Parking assistant control unit -J446- , Navigation park assist control unit -J791- 15a F33 - fuse 33 on fuse holder C -SC33- 7.5A - Airbag system deactivation indicator on the front passenger side -K145- , Airbag system control unit -J234- 15a F34 - fuse 34 on fuse holder C -SC34- 7.5A - headlight switch -E1- , reversing light switch -F4- , coolant circuit pressure sender -G805- , rear seat heating control unit -J786- , automatic dimming interior rearview mirror -Y7- , sound generator control unit -J869- , air quality sensor -G238- 15a F35 - fuse 35 on fuse holder C -SC35- 7.5A - Plug connection, 16-pin -T16b- , on diagnostic socket front camera for driver assistance systems -R242- , control unit for distance control -J428- 15a F36 - fuse 36 on fuse holder C -SC36- 7.5A - actuator module 1 for right LED headlight -A27- 15a F37 - fuse 37 on fuse holder C -SC37- 7.5A - actuator module 1 for left LED headlight -A31- 15a F38 - fuse 38 on fuse holder C -SC38- 25A - Trailer detection control unit -J345- 30a F39 - fuse 39 on fuse holder C -SC39- 30A - Door control unit, front passenger side -J387- , electric window motor, rear right -V27- (for left-hand drive vehicles) 30a - Door control unit, driver's side -J386- , rear right power window motor -V27- (for right-hand drive vehicles) F40 - fuse 40 on fuse holder C -SC40- 20A - cigarette lighter -U1- , 12V socket -U5- 30a F41 - fuse 41 on fuse holder C -SC41- 25A - Front right seat belt tensioner control unit -J855- (for left-hand drive vehicles) 30a - Front left seat belt tensioner control unit -J854- (for right-hand drive vehicles) F42 - fuse 42 on fuse holder C -SC42- 40A - Vehicle electrical system control unit -J519- 30a F43 - fuse 43 on fuse holder C -SC43- 30A - Soundpaket digital audio recording and playback control unit -J525- 30a F44 - fuse 44 on fuse holder C -SC44- 15A - Trailer detection control unit -J345- 30a F45 - fuse 45 on fuse holder C -SC45- 20A - Driver's seat adjuster thermal fuse 30a F46 - fuse 46 on fuse holder C -SC46- 30A - inverter with socket, 12V-230V -U13- 30a F47 - fuse 47 on fuse holder C -SC47- 15A - Rear window wiper motor -V12- 15a F48 - fuse 48 on fuse holder C -SC48- 10A - Lane change assist control unit -J769- , Lane change assist control unit 2 -J770- 15a F49 - fuse 49 on fuse holder C -SC49- 7.5A - Starter relay 1 -J906- , starter relay 2 -J907- , clutch pedal position sensor -G476- 15a F50 - fuse 50 on fuse holder C -SC50- 30A - Rear bonnet control unit -J605- 30a F51 - fuse 51 on fuse holder C -SC51- 30A - Control unit for reducing agent heating -J891- 30a F52 - fuse 52 on fuse holder C -SC52- 7.5A - voltage converter for usb charging module -A5- 15a F53 - fuse 53 on fuse holder C -SC53- 30A - heated rear window -Z1- 30a

OBDeleven or VCDS, provided the airbag module isn't SFD locked.

Goodyear Efficient Grip xxx Goodyear Asymmetric xxx Or Bridgestone Turanza xxx Correct. Thanks. AG Falco

And people call ME a troll! 😄

Make & Model: Skoda, SUPERB, Estate, 2011, Semi-Auto, 1968 Colour: Amethyst Purple metallic 3X3X Mileage: 121,500 Price: £ 3,000 Description: Fantastic car in great condition new 12 months MOT until November 2025 (no advisories). any check or test welcome. Colour is bronze with a hint of purple! Had a bashed wing and broken headlight when I bought it but had it professionally repaired it's spot on now but is a CAT N. Can been seen in Carlisle. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: recent service, front discs and pads and gearbox oil change Extras: Reversing camera and upgraded Stereo with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Removable Towbar fitted it's a great tow car. New 17inch Alloys fitted in the last 12 months Collection: Carlisle, UK Pictures:

Hi all, My 191sti has a fuel gauge problem. When I start the engine the fuel gauge reads correctly. After random differing times (anywhere between 5sec to 2 minutes) the needle goes to empty and stays there until I turn off the engine. When I restart it reads fine but again after a random time goes to zero. It started doing this a year ago after nothing in particular (no service or battery issues). It doesn't seem to be related to braking, steering or road bumps. I have installed a new fuel tank reader. The fault continues. I don't know what else to do. Thanks for taking time to read this, Stu

Most Karoq owners will probably want to stick to standard tyre sizes, but there can be big differences in the price of different tyre sizes...and 225/60R16 tends to be an expensive tyre size. Therefore, looking at possible alternative tyre sizes to save money could lead to the below two 16" tyre sizes...ie. 215/65R16 and 235/60R16. Notice in the charts below how these two 16" tyre sizes have almost the same outside diameter as the standard 19" tyre size, ie. 225/45R19. The 215/65R16 tyre size could be fitted to the standard 16" rim, ie. 6Jx16 ET43...but the 235/60R16 would need to be fitted to a wider rim such as 7Jx16 ET45 (from the Yeti). Another benefit of sticking with 16" tyres, is that they tend not to be over-specified for the Karoq...ie. H speed rating and not XL (eXtra Load)...as in the example below of a Vredestein Quatrac tyre. It's nice to see that genuine Skoda wheel trims are still available for the 16" Yeti steel rims...as linked to below. These could be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting OEM part number 5L0071456 Z31. The "skoda eshop cz" website are selling these for under £62 for a set of four, but the UK price might be slightly higher. Outside diameter of standard Karoq 4x4 tyres 225/60R16 676.4mm 225/55R17 679.3mm 225/50R18 682.2mm 225/45R19 685.1mm Outside diameter of two non-standard 16" Karoq 4x4 tyre sizes 215/65R16 685.9mm (0.1% bigger outside diameter compared to 225/45R19) 235/60R16 688.4mm (0.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 225/45R19) Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 (from Yeti and Superb MK2) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=182363349315490928&rimCode=ALCAR9257 Set of four wheel trims for 7Jx16 ET45 steel rims (from Yeti) 5L0071456 Z31 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-satellite-16/p/5L0071456++Z31 Vredestein Quatrac 235/60R16 100H (Euro label C B 71dB) (all-season tyre) (3PMSF) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s12008p201646/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB You can view the standard Karoq 4x4 alloy rim sizes on the "skoda eshop cz" website as linked to below...but I've listed them for convenience. Notice that the 7Jx16 ET45 Yeti steel rim has the same width and offset as the 17" and 18" rims on the Karoq 4x4. The non-standard 235/60R16 tyre size is like a ballooned version of the standard 17" Karoq 4x4 tyre size because it's one up in width and one up in aspect ratio, ie. 235/60R16 instead of 225/55R17 (but with the necessary 1" reduction in rim diameter to keep the outside diameter similar). Alloy rims for Karoq 4x4 (from Skoda accessory catalogue) 6Jx16 ET43 (for 225/60R16 tyre size) 7Jx17 ET45 (for 225/55R17 tyre size) 7Jx18 ET45 (for 225/50R18 tyre size) 8Jx19 ET45 (for 225/45R19 tyre size) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AKaroq%2B%282017%2B%29&text=# For those that need mud performance, there's also the Yokohama AT (All-Terrain) tyre to consider. The Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 has the 3PMSF (3 Peak Mountain Snow Flake) symbol...so is winter rated. The 3PMSF symbol means that the tyre has passed a test for good traction in the snow. Being an All-Terrain tyre means that it should provide good traction in the mud. Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 235/60R16 100H (Euro label E C 72dB) (all-season tyre) (3PMSF) (All-Terrain tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB When driving off-road it's beneficial to have plenty of sidewall height. So below is a chart comparing the sidewall height of the standard 16" and 17" tyre sizes on the Karoq 4x4...and two non-standard 16" tyre sizes. As you can see in the chart below only the 215/65R16 and 235/60R16 tyre sizes have over 5.5" of sidewall height...out of these four tyre sizes. Sidewall height (for off-road, more is better) 225/55R17 4.8" 225/60R16 5.3" 215/65R16 5.5" 235/60R16 5.5" When driving off-road it's beneficial to have plenty of sidewall bulge to help protect the rim from damage. In my view, at least 15mm of sidewall bulge is good but at least 18mm is excellent. So here again, the 235/60R16 tyre size beats the 225/55R17 tyre size. Amount of sidewall bulge when fitted to 7J rim width (for off-road, more is better) 225/55R17 15.6mm 235/60R16 19.1mm

It's the sort of sound they make when the pads are almost but not quite being applied firm enough to the discs. I don't think pad wear would do this, but if the rear handbrake mechanism on one or both sides is slightly corroded it might make it stiff enough to be hard to apply fully with the handbrake lever. In my experience the Yeti system needs a firm pull and is more effort to apply than other cars. One technique you could try is to "stand" on the footbrake as you apply the handbrake. This uses the footbrake hydraulic pressure to get the pads to grip well, so the application of the handbrake lever only has to "take up the slack" and not be trying to apply the pads as well.

I've no idea how good, or not, your local Dealership is generally or specific jobs like this but other members are also in parts of Scotland, whether same as you of course is a different matter, but may be able to advise you of places that are good or usually best to avoid. If you are anywhere near the following chap I like the way he does his diagnosis and then checks it, not just relying on scan tool error codes, and checks and cross references things including his repairs. Plenty of his videos will give the general idea and perhaps a similar or same case as yours (though perhaps not on VW). - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos I can't remember if I put this before but if not also have a look at this, Briskoda member that may be able to help to some extent at least (confirming error code if not more) most for beer tokens, some offering professional service so different rates. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

First month stats from the car 358mile @ 3.1m/kwh = 115 kw? x 24p = £27.60 although my meter readings suggest we have only used 72kw more than this period last year = £17.28 My Mondeo averaged 35 mpg = 10.22gallon or 45.99litres @ £1.327 = £61.02 Long term guessometer now reset.

No apologies needed for the pun mumpsin, I never 'tyre' of them, although one has to 'tread' carefully to avoid verbal pun-ishment

Will do cheers

James, I've copied & pasted my post from other thread in case you missed it and to get the ball rolling here. - A cleaning of the fusebox and it's connections may (or may not) save replacing with new but a Dealership/garage/mechanic/auto-electrician may decide and/or charge otherwise. Any electrical or engine starting issues I start at the battery (and fully recharge it even if the charge isn't too low as battery state of charge can help or hinder fault diagnosis and find resolve) and go from battery forward with checks at least. A scan tool can help but it never fully rules out the basic checks that existed before them. @roxby_fabia James, P0562 could possibly suggest that the basic checks haven't been completed or it might be an additional issue, if you also had/have a battery in a low state of charge then checking the car's alternate might be a good idea but of course with electrics you also have to check, wire, connections, parts/components, all need to be fully functioning and clean, secure and protected. Also with error codes you need a scan tool appropriate to your VW model and year, at an appropriate level for fuller diagnosis, and the program for your model and year fully up to date otherwise you can be given incomplete or even incorrect information.

Normally steels are lighter than modern alloys, especially if you are going down 2 inches. Thanks. AG Falco

On any Skoda with a Battery Management System you must always connect the negative lead of an external charger to the chassis NOT the battery negative terminal. If you connect it to the battery negative terminal the Battery Management System won't know the battery has been charged.

I have a set of 16" Audi alloys with Michelin Cross climates on for use in the winter months - I'm sure if I was the type of driver that pushed to the limit I might notice some differences in steering feedback / response, but I'm not......😄 I do like the extra sidewall depth, gives me added blase regarding the state of the roads around here.

These type of companies possibly don't want their customers to know too much but they need staff, this took about two seconds to find slowed as I'm a one-finger typist. - Škoda UK Head Office Škoda UK is based at Volkswagen Group UK’s head office in Milton Keynes. A career at head office can take many twists and turns, and we encourage everyone who works with us to explore any opportunities that appeal to them. Our people have a true passion* for what they do, a genuine desire to go further for customers and to give their own careers real momentum at the same time. . . . . https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/careers ETA: * passion can be less on a Monday morning, which makes for a very long working week 😉

The slowing down for curves is hit and miss. Mine often says “Curve, max 27mph” then trucks through at 40.

thanks, I think i might have found a guy who claims to know what hes doing! so il give em a shot at it, trolling? im in my 60,s I thought trolling was some kind of cosplay dressing up as shrek? lol.

Yes.

Based on my experience doing a similar swop twice yearly for ten years with my wife's Yetis, I think you'll notice the winter tyres will give less immediate, less precise turn-in response from the steering. Some people don't mind that. Otherwise I think you have a good grip (sorry) on the various issues.

Hi and many thanks to @weyland and all other contributors to this thread! got my camera (Cam-A) last week and decided the weekend just gone would be my D-Day. Took about three hours on Saturday and half an hour on Sunday to neaten things up/make sure boot trim was back in place properly. started at the front to check the camera was working and had the devils own job of getting the media unit out and back in again once the harness was fitted, some lying in the footwell and wiggling around managed to get it back in! moved to the rear to check the new boot release switch would work which it did RESULT! decided on the lower route for the video cable as i didnt fancy getting too close to the curtain airbags, then my first error of tracking the video feed cable from front to back which left me getting the bigger end of the connector through the boot gator/grommet..... good 45 minutes, a lot of swearing and a sore back later it was through and fed though the left boot panels to be plugged into the boot release plug and jobs a goodun, all works perfectly, probably just take a little time getting used to it but its really good for the money! anyone reading this thread wondering if they can or can't do it, just go for it! the knowledge and information in this thread is invaluable and helped me a lot! so did a good set of trim removal tools from amazon and a multlibit screw driver from Aldi with the torx bit required the inner boot pulldown! now onto the list of new black badges and a maxton kit, i'm feeling very brave and very mekanic!

@SuperbDuperb Have you paper work on this? The Master Techs Diagnosis & Report to Skoda / VW UK, and the reply from Skoda UK stating that there is no fundamental design, material or manufacturing failings? It sounds to me like BS as to the issue with your car. Has this gone to Skoda UK management and a Warranty Manager and a Communication / resolution manager?

My garage's reply (local main dealer) states that an internal defect within the air-con heat-exchanger's construction allows the aircon gas to escape into the cooling system which blows out the coolant!!! In spite of this, Skoda are refusing the garage's request for a good will payment towards the >£1000 cost of repair & replacement. (My Skoda was 1mo, 12days out of warranty when the fault occurred.) I'd be very grateful for any advice on how to approach Skoda - thanks v much.

Just to comment on the Blizzak LM-005 that you'd get with that package from Caffyns. In terms of winter capabiity, they are better than 'will do initially', in fact a very good winter tyre, their main weakness being high wear rate. See a thorough comparative test here, by the only person doing properly controlled back-to-back blind testing outside of the German, Austrian, and Swiss motoring clubs: https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2023-Tyre-Reviews-UHP-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm

Mine fluctuates but is regularly above 95 - has done since I bought it 3 years ago so adding my assurance to this.

I understand that. Issue i am having is if i set to 29.5 it is blowing cold. And its not always done that.

It does sound like it could be an issue with the shifter for the DSG in P and not allowing it to start. A connection / switch fault. Also is your foot firmly on the brake pedal,?. ( The car can be left in N, and started in N. Just not when it is -8 degrees C or lower. )

Thanks - I'm in Whitley Bay.

Hi, welcome. Any dash warnings, messages, symbols (amber/red-triangle-of-doom), proper gearstick location for starting, pressing the brake hard enough. There are so many possible reasons for this, gearlever switchy-thingy, immobiliser, connector wires, computers, brakes - if the car isn't telling you anything then you'll need an appropriate level VW scan tool with fully up to date program on it for your model and year of car. The battery has to be very, very low usually not to start the engine, before this often you get all sorts or unexpected issues and warnings sometimes for a good while too if you ignore them before the engine struggles to start. If you can give more info please do, and let us know how you get on. Others may be along with other ideas.

TBH the key not recognised part could have been as simple as a the sensor loop on the key barrel playing up. Id start by getting the diagnostics scanned and seeing if that's the issue before anything else and certainly before starting to swap out ECUs, clocks, key barrels etc.

Since it has a slush box I suspect an issue with the ignition inhibitor.

Cant believe how good the mud flaps are at keeping my car cleaner than normal considering the weather. First time I have had them fitted on any of my cars but now would be the first thing I have fitted

First wash today, only had the car 2 weeks and front and rear mud flaps installed.

I guess there would be a wire going into bottom of the fuel filter housing if there is a sensor.

I honestly wouldn't bother with lane assist. I switch it off every time I get in the car!

Do you mean ECU? When you titled this thread ICU I assumed you meant some kind of reference to getting your Yeti working again without needing to go to the car equivalent of an Intensive Care Unit! The ECU and instruments will need matching to the new keys, which isn't a job that normal diagnostic software can do, it usually needs a dealer-level piece of software such as ODIS.

As ApertureS says you need to go to a garage that knows what they are doing, I've always found that independent Skoda/VAG specialists have far more product knowledge than the majority of dealers, and there's no way a 2011 Yeti is beyond economical repair!

Won't do you a lot of good - the ECU controls whether the electrical fuel pump runs, the injector timing and amount (no mechanical injection pump here), the position of the actual throttle valve in the intake (yes modern diesels do have a "throttle" valve and there's no physical connection between the pedal and the valve). So yes you can hot wire the ignition on, but the engine cannot run without the fuel pump running, fuel being injected or with an intake with the throttle valve stuck in the idle position.

and how should we know what is approved for your engine and what actually do you have there now ? check this document https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10170208-0001.pdf G40 should be same as G12++ when was the coolant replaced last time ? it isn't lifetime fluid

I had a 2016 2.0 TDi 190 L&K until just over a week ago, when I changed it for a 2023 2.0 TSi 190 L&K. I've covered between 6 and 8 thousand miles each year since I retired at the end of 2017 (lockdown excepted). I've been very happy with both of the cars, but switched to petrol due to my annual mileage and also because a lot of my mileage is in the summer driving to Lithuania every year to visit SWMBO's family and friends, so winter time mileage can be quite low and the car doesn't get a chance to warm up properly. I like the L&K trim and I use just about all of the extras that trim gives me, so I'm happy to pay extra for it. I know it's not to everyone's taste, but it depends what you want from the car and it's a personal choice. It's early days yet to say much about fuel consumption for the petrol engine, but last week I went from Brecon to Hereford and, due to traffic, I was following others most of the way at 45-50 mph and it was showing just over 50 mpg when I arrived, which seems pretty good.

Except that as an untaxed car it shouldn't actually be being driven on the road... I know technically you are correct but it's perverse...

Having issues with electronics is one thing. Having workshops releasing car which obviously does not work is another. And frankly, apart of VAG I haven't heard many of such stories, while for Skoda it is the norm and I had to deal with it myself multiple times. I could understand if they had a test run and all was fine, and issue arose later. But myself I had to come to puck up my car just to discover it does not work right still in the workshop.

Dacia here we come...

Welcome to the Skoda world. Isn't it under warranty? I would call Skoda Assist and make them tow the car. As well as claim replacement car until all is sorted.

Tow bars 2 you in Darlington £735 it’s a detachable

It does, but it’s not necessary. You can switch the ignition off while you change the discs and pads.

You can change the solid rear discs without removing the carrier so @PhilD2 should be ok with his TDI 150. Not needed - you can switch the ignition off while the electric park brake is in the service position, it will remember its state when you switch back on to complete the process. Yes, it has to be told to exit the service mode and will then extend and retract the actuator a few times to learn the new pad thickness.