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So i'm sure each and every Superb MK3 and any other MQB platform car including Golf's, Passats and such have came across the following fault 1 Fault Found: 263425 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [009] - Internal System Fault Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear And the only solution is to replace the Air quality sensor, located in the plenum chamber. The part numbers for the superb went in the following order 5Q0907643B was the original up to 2016. Since then the part number has been revised with the letter at the end changing, going to C,D,F and then finally as of 2023, the newest part number is 5Q0907643E. The part has its own self diagnosis and is non servicable so its simply a case of removing, replacing and clearing the fault codes, but no one actually knows what the common issue is. Now onto the part itself - 5Q0907643D dated 05-06-2017: The air quality sensor also called AQS is fitted in the cabin air intake and detects pollution in the incoming air including emissions and pollen - It then feeds this back to the climatronic control module via the LINbus and in turn this automatically switches the air to recirculation. That is as simple as the process can be. The outside of the part consists of a completely sealed plastic casing, 3 pins (12V, ground, LINbus) and an air intake with a white membrane over it. The part needed to be cut open to access the internal circuit board which was done with a very small hacksaw. Inside we had a small double sided circuit board as pictured below The components on this circuit board are as follows - as well as what I could possibly test, has been tested. Various resistors - couldnt find a single one burnt out, okay Various capacitors - couldnt find a single one burnt out, okay 16F1938 micro controller - Unable to test but this is the main control unit for this component and if it was faulty, there is a good chance we wouldnt get the above fault code - instead no comms A voltage regulator - same diagnosis as above LINbus controller - same diagnosis as above, would not have any comms if faulty And then the 2 very odd things on the ends of the 'fingers' almost..... see below So on closer inspection you have these 2 very small black boxes, each with 4 connections I have no idea what these components are, but they seem to be some kind of optical sensor, but on an extremely tiny scale. I assume these are what pick up the particulates and tell the control unit there is a high pollution level - but this is just speculation. Now I done my best to get an up close picture of the sensors and their connections, but on my phone camera this was almost impossible, but this is the best I can do. Youll notice each of these components is isolated from the ground plane (light green part of the circuit board) and on each of the black boxes there are 4 very small gold dots on top. I have nothing to measure these with but a guess would be 0.1mm each. These are the connection points from the component to the circuit board. You will also notice that to connect the circuit board to the component is an absolutely TINY gold wire (can be seen on closest component bottom right connection). These are so much smaller than a human hair even, impossible to measure with any tools I have. Most of these tiny gold wires are snapped off at one or both ends! So for the top component - the top 2 wires are completely missing, the bottom 2 are still connected. The bottom component - the top 2 wires, one is detatched from the circuit board, the other is missing. The bottom left is not touching the circuit board, the right is connected only to the circuit board. So basically, these wires that are maybe a 10th of a human hair. Of the 8 connections, 2 are doing their job. And here lies the issue! These components and their connections are so fragile, being in an engine bay is enough to completely destroy them. Would be very interesting to see a newer revision and what has changed internally.

Possibly your problem is clutch contamination, causing drag on the lining. If this is the case, replacement of the clutch will probably be required. Have you tried deliberately slipping the clutch a little during a fairly quick start? - Don't overdo it.

I'd suggest getting the battery tested - preferably a high-rate discharge test. If your runs are mostly relatively short distances, the battery management system will typically restrict battery charge state to around 75%, reserving the remaining approx. 25% capacity for energy recuperation. The slightly rougher idling could possibly be the alternator being loaded-up in an attempt to raise battery charge state.

A few years ago Australia offered the 1.4 TSI without ACT and with an 8 Speed Aisin Torque converter auto, (Also available in North America and other world regions.) Where they have actual emissions as are, and not cheated as in the EU for a Worldwide Harmonised light vehicle test procedure. Rest of the world not stupid. PS When there was a Global Recall on DQ200 DSG,s in 2012 that did not include Europe as not part of the Globe. In some countries including China they had to extend the Warranty to 10 years / 100,000 miles. Warranties in Australia are or were 5 years. There have been 3 recalls on DQ200 DSG,s in Australia 2009-2016 VW Group. No surprise then for a traditional Auto. Now VW,s problem growing is the poor longevity of DQ381,s. I expect in North America , Australia etc the courts will tear VW a new hole.

The real problem with electric cars and the charging confusion is the one that nobody is actually addressing, and that is that there is NO set standards for the location of the charge port, or its type of port as this RAC guide shows, even from the early days the method of refuelling an ICE car has not really changed, its a case of pull into a filling station, opening the fuel tank flap. removing the cap and inserting the nozzle and squeezing the trigger and the process is the same regardless of what type of fuel or its grade. Refuelling an electric is nothing like that, there are many types of plugs, types of charger, speeds, AC, or DC etc and not not all charging locations are equal, some will cater for certain types and not others. So is it really any wonder that so many people struggle with getting charged, as this RAC site explains. Electric car charger types and connectors – a visual guide | RAC Drive

Popping down to South Wales in the Scenic tomorrow and plan to pop in to the Ionity site at Magor, not the service station but the commercial estate on the other side of the junction. 350 kw beasts but I will be plugging in my 60 kwh, nominal, Scenic which is supposedly able to draw down power up to 135 kw. Literally just want to try it own, maybe just pull down 5 kwh which should take about 9 minutes, give me about 23 miles added range, which I do not really need as I can easily do the 150 mile round trip from Worcester to Caldicot and back. Subway 100 feet away from chargers. Could take longer to get subway meal deal than get the charge I want. So much better than the Zoe with its 45 kw charge rate, at best, three times faster with the liquid cooled Scenic rather than air Zoe. Still love the Zoe though. Test completed, charge charge lobbed on to the Electroverse bill over to Octopus account so will not even notice the cost as it will not change my Direct Debit. Happy day, its like getting it for free.

I bought at 71 plate PHEV in February. The dealer told me that all software was up to date, but I had some infotainment issues and found I was on old software. I insisted that they update to version 1941 which they did while I waited. No problems now. Most mileage is local on electric with longer journeys on hybrid. If you get one insist that the infotainment software is at 1941 or later before delivery.

THis is just indication, you need to connect diagnostics tool (VCDS, VCP< OBD Eleven, ODIS, VC Tool) and read error codes

@nta16, if you had access to VCDS or Carista or similar, you could change which lights come on as DRLs, in as much as for certain, maybe Scandic countries the requirement is for rear marker lights being on as well as the front DRLs - and that is not a bad idea, so far in my 24 years of owning VW Group cars, I don't seem to have get round to changing away from just "front DRLs" - though now with both cars having LED DRLs and LED rear marker lights, that is something that makes sense to change to. I tend to be one of these strange/different people that don't normally leave the lights on auto as the point where I consider switching lights on either in poor weather conditions or low light conditions is normally a "bit ahead" of the car's point of doing this - and yes I know that you can alter that as well using VCDS. Typically in UK at least, I'd think that light control should be on auto by default as the average UK driver seems to consider that if they start their journey in daylight then they should not be expected to switch their car lights on before the end of that journey, or when they really can't make out the road a few yards ahead of them - especially if they are driving a dark coloured car!

OT but I do happen to have both Linux and Window boxes under my desk, both sharing a single monitor, keyboard and mouse, along with a couple of Windows laptops.

I washed it with WD40 after removal of the battery and plastics, Dried out and since then is working great

Hello, Just a little update. I went to a Skoda Service point and they found the problem. The hydraulic brake line bracket on the firewall came loose. They fixed it again and the sound was gone! E.

Glorious this afternoon and still pretty warm (16 degrees)😎 Not too muddy either 🚲🙂 I spotted what appeared to be a chap getting knocked off his bike in the rear view mirror earlier - I doubled back to make sure he was okay and it turned out he was just unable to get his feet out of the clipped-in pedals quick enough - happily no harm done 👍

So a further update, the alarm has been going off intermittently without any cause. Checking the data on the car shows 'lost comms with module' but doesnt tell me which module. Thats great! Thought id test the battery and it had a capacity of 350Ah of 680Ah. This is after driving the car for 2 hours each day all week. Its a shame but seems like after 8 years the original battery is finally due for replacement. On top of that, when you have the parking heater system the vehicle is meant to have an AGM, not EFB battery. So the largest possible battery to fit is a 096 size, AGM type battery. I use Yuasa batteries for work all the time so a YBX9096 is the optimal battery and next was finding somewhere with one. Halfords sell the battery for £237.19 which is wildly overpriced. But they do offer price match to high street and online retailers. So after some hunting I found it for £128.50 online and went into Halfords, After no fuss at all, walked out with my battery and very proud of my receipt. Battery fitted to vehicle, and coded correctly to the new fleece type with higher capacity. Now to monitor the alarm faults.

I dont always act my age.. and I work with others who dont, as i got this from a colleague 20mins after i sent the above into our work group chat... we got our vans pretty close together, he ended up with a LWB Connect, i the gurrier. another colleague did call us weirdos though....

@TruckbusUK MOT fail; Rear caliper seized Both rear suspension arms seriously corroded and weakened Front suspension arms both sides, bushes and ball joints And bubbling under; Clutch and flywheel Very rusty exhaust Both front passenger doors rusty and in holes in the corners All four wheel arches have tin worm Regens every 100 miles @Ootohere Probably not, who would want it??

@Graham Butcher there are so many reasons that people are not considering an EV be it new or used. Lots of the reasons might be any of the things that are discussed in this thread. There seems to be people that they suit and they can get their heads round how they work and how they will charge them. As it is now if they get one and need to charge out and about they have little choice to get with it kind of quick. But it is a case of keep calm and carry on, and if the Government want to price you off the road then just pay up.

I had one in the centre of the car at the back under the number plate

The battery is very low when it struggles to start the engine, the battery needs to be fully recharged with an appropriate battery charger, following the instructions for charging in the car's Owner's Manual and the charger and using as lower amperage for charging as practical (so may take at least a full day if not two of recharging). If your car is 2015 and the AGM battery is only 5 years old and you have a battery charger that suggests to me that there is a problem somewhere, perhaps with the car ( car's charging or monitoring system, drain dashcam or other) or perhaps there was a 'coding' issue when this battery was installed or perhaps inappropriate use or lack of use of the battery charger. Try removing the battery from the car (after reading your Owner's Manual for disconnecting/reconnecting and what might need resetting on the car) and fully recharging the battery as low and slow as possible or the "pulse repair" setting but if you've been flogging the battery with trying to start the engine you've possibly flogged the poor battery to death. I've got to drive my wife to drink now but if you look back at posts in this thread and do search the Fabia Mk3 forum you should find lots of threads and posts on the battery, battery recharging, battery 'coding' and such stuff, many from me but also others (some where other believe the car's modern alternator can take full care of the situation regardless of short journeys despite many threads and posts proving otherwise). Good luck.

Care to share?

No need for a song and dance. Look at the car charging point, if you can figure out how to open a flap. Youtube Videos aplenty. Obviously there are those without a computer or a smart phone or an enquiring mind. They might not yet of heard about electric cars, or if they have might have a tongue in their head and ears on the side. (Deaf and Dumb can drive as well obviously, they are maybe not so daft as some around.) You just need to know what your Tesla uses, and with others is it CCS or CHADeMO for DC Charging. If it is AC charging pretty simple. As to chargers as new ones are being installed the signage is much better.

I have a lot of miles to do in the next 10 days and am taking the MINI as i have planned around using the Tesla Superchargers unless there are any public chargers cheaper and there are not any that suit on my routes other than on the odd occasion if i charge on 7 or 11 kW AC,s.

Sound pretty good if it just uses 1 litre of oil every 6,000 km / 3,700 miles. Some might use less and others much more including new cars with less km on them.

Skoda UK relaying parts of a conversation they had with the Oxford Dealership Service Manager. Chris K.

With my Fabia 1.2 TSI at this time of year ( autumn ) I notice the following. I am down in the South. Water temperature can take 3-5 miles to actually get up to 90 C. The temperature gauge in the car will show 90 C from about a real engine water temperature of about 75 C. It also wont rise above 90 C until it reaches about 110 C. I use an OBD dongle and an app on my mobile phone to check the actual water temperature. Oil Temperature takes even longer to rise. About 5 to 7 miles to reach 90 C + Oil temperature will rise and fall as per use the engine is getting. If your car is getting warmer quicker then perhaps it is burning too much fuel too fast. Hence the poor fuel consumption. Do you know the actual MPG the car is doing from recently? ie. How much fuel does it take to fill the fuel tank and the mileage at which you have done. Can you smell fuel? Thanks. AG Falco

There's an upside to having smaller hands (and possibly more bendy wrists, it's not something I've considered before!) I may have to find some mad ways to overcome lack of physical heft for the brute-force jobs, but at least I could do this fix without losing to much skin, and I can change front light bulbs with less difficulty than the big lads seem to have.

Sorry Mike, I obviously wasn’t clear enough. It is the button with the telephone handset shape on it which I’ve circled below, I was referring to, not the scroll wheel.

Everything @Redboy suggests but also check the gear change has not seized up. That happened to our '07 1.9tdi Octy 2 after it had been laid up for a year after a cosmetic to the front wing. It took a degree of fettling (read lots of lube plus many hours exercising the gearchange) to free up properly. That said, it's been fine since after a little initial notchiness.

Typo corrected inline, bold caps.

So my thinking of the gold wire instead of solder is that it is laser welded on. The component is probably extremely sensitive to heat so just soldering a jumper wire would probably damage the component. that being said, it’s dead anyway so no harm in trying. ill take some 0.35mm wire, strip the insulation off it and remove a single strand from it and use this. the strands are 0.2mm each.

You are the man! What a great topic! Now the question is ...could it be repaired? Where do you buy gold hairs? 😝

This. It’s sort of analogous to non geek having their windows PC replaced with a Linux box

As long as your car has wing mirrors, you’re good to go 😂😎

That’s the point though. It’s all very well the nerds and early adopters saying “yadda yadda yadda” but average joe transitioning………

Spotted a lovely looking 18 year old S-type earlier - this one runs on the wrong fuel, but it'll still be about 100 times nicer to drive and ride in than most modern cars. Still miss my old S-type!

I've been offered these sort's of 'add-ons' on new and ex demo cars many times over the years; Exterior Protection, Interior Upholstery Protection, Alloy Wheel Insurance, Gap insurance. This is where the dealers make their money on a car sale because there is intense competition through online websites for the actual vehicle price. If you are buying through PCP and intend handing the car back at the end of the contract and getting another new car on PCP the dealers like taking back vehicles with these 'insurances' on them because they can get the car prepped for resale on their forecourt by claiming on these insurances at zero cost to them, in fact they actually make money because they 'invoice the insurer for the work they needed to do. When trading in a car against a new one I've been told if I'd had these insurances they trade in would have been higher, but not by the amount I'd have had to fork out for the insurances though. Prior to my Karoq I had a pre-reg VW Touran which had 27 miles on the odometer, instead of paying £400 for exterior protection and £300 for interior protection, I spent £100 on Autoglym products, clay bar, resin polish and HD Wax, Upholstery Cleaner and Vinyl Cleaner/Polish. If you have the time,, one weekend in spring and one weekend in Autumn was all it needed and the products lasted 6 years, before |\I needed to buy more. Find a good detailer and save yourself some time and money!

I do not know the situation in Ireland but i would not be buying an EV as a private car unless keeping it for many years and not concerned over depreciation. Leasing if there are tax benefits then that is a different matter. @Stonekeeper has moved from an ICE to an Enyaq is the last few weeks.

This is a money-maker for the dealership. Avoid. If you'd like some additional protection, spend the money at an independent local 'detailer' (absurd U.S. name but that's what they all call themselves) who will use better-quality products and have the training and skill to apply them well. Those are almost always lacking at larger corporate dealerships. I am not alone in my view: https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/gard-x-ceramic-dealer-quote.433773 That site should list some independents local to you.

Yes, if your lucky, there will be a soft black rubber bung with maybe the outline of a padlock moulded into its outer face, just pick them off, use the key blade or similar shaped implement to flick that "exposed head" over, then close that door - it should now be locked from being able to open it from the outside, from the inside you should still be able to open the door, either directly by pulling the "door opening handle" or by pulling it, release it, it it fully a second time. I was holding back on offering too much info originally just in case it confused you, so was really just trying to force you to read the owner's handbook so that you had that to support you if you ended up being confused - that is all.

Infrastructure sucks some places, and some providers / networks suck. Charge Place Scotland is a special case as many providers / owners of chargers. My experience of best charging experience, no issue or maybe 1 or 2 in 75,000 miles of charging. Instavolt. Instant charge from tapping card. PodPoint. I use a card or the App, nearly always instant start unless chargerfaulty. Evyve. Instant charge from tapping card. Tesla. App, instant. Osprey. Card & instant. Ionity. Card & Instant. Some problems. Very frustrating. MFG. Card & App, and have sometimes taken several attempts and move charger to get started. Lots of issues so only use or try if not in a hurry. BP Pulse. I have subscription. Shell Recharge, I have never managed to get a charge started at 1. Tried about 4. If only ZAPMAP was as good as they think they are. Pretty damn hopeless IME. Never updating quick enough, missing many chargers even when reported to them. 47 pence on InstaVolt. Old Video. Now 85 pence a kWh. Now from 1st September 54 pence between 10 pm & 6 am. That is using the App. Being extended to Contactless uses before the end of the year. (Budget dependent maybe.)

Chargers can be really awkward. Shell recharge rubbish. Some chargers plug in tap card push buttons or not and go. Where many go wrong is as I did. You need to realise there are slow ones. You need to let them set. Communicate. Light up a screen. Lots have buttons with no indication what they are till the screen comes alive. You are canceling before you even get a start. I often have to reset a charger. Press the emergency stop. Follow the instructions and wait. Sadly some have no instructions so you need to know the procedure. Help lines can be hopeless if they answer. Often it can be quite a while before you get a reply and then it was a waste of time. Being familiar with what you use can be the only way. There are providers that are just dead easy to use. Sadly unless it is Tesla they are the more expensive. Shell and BP are just pathetic . Customer services are just hopeless. PS. If we are talking Porsche Taycan driver and 20,000 miles a year or so business use with the camera gear and also private use, then you really should know which work how and prices etc. After all your putting in tax returns as a business user with your car on the never never until paid off or traded in.

There are quite a few BYD,s now with people leasing from Motability. I have helped 2 drivers. Sadly they were not explained to when getting the cars that they are looking for CCS on the chargers for DC charging. AC is Slow Charging, often referred to as 'Fast'. They were not explained to that in Scotland that Charge Place Scotland chargers are almost exclusively Rapid chargers, so 50 kW max which is far from Rapid. I pointed out to them to get 100 or 100 + rapid charging they would be paying likely at BP, MFG, Shell Recharge, Ionity, Osprey or maybe Tesla charging Non Tesla. Those taking the cars orders and doing hand overs really can be hopeless, and when the customer is getting a car for a disabled driver or passenger it is quite pathetic. As i have been telling Motability. I know from Salespeople that are dealing with EV,s that many of them just charge at work or home and have little experience of public chargers other than ones maybe at their Dealerships which really are not for the Public in lots of cases.

not all youtubers push the limit. This was a charity challenge to drive as far as possible in 24 hours, this team (neither of whom are EV owners I believe) used a BYD Seal. IMHO their conclusions probably align with those of a lot of new EV owners regarding the experience.

A car might lock itself after being unlocked and without opening any of the doors. It should never lock if a door has been opened. If it does re-lock after being unlocked and a door has been opened the door microswitch is probably faulty If the car locks randomly on moving the drivers door, it is likely the wiring loom is damaged in the rubber boot somewhere and the car had registered a press on the 'lock' button on the door card.

My 2016 Citigo took a whack on the rear right wheel (don't ask) and although the damage wasn't extensive the car did develop a low frequency rumble. The standard modes of diagnosis didn't really show up a wheel bearing failure. I lifted the wheel off the ground and spun it but it felt smooth. Not the kind of roughness you'd expect from a failed bearing, and no side-to-side or front to back play. The one thing I did notice was that the frequency changed with speed (good sign of a failed bearing) and that it was louder when turning one direction and quieter when turning the other direction which was a good indicator of the bearing being worse under more load and, obviously, quieter under less load. The fix is relatively simple. The bearing comes as a complete hub unit which is held on to the axle by a single central nut. The OEM bearing I took off my car is manufactured by FAG which was coincidentally pleasing because I'd chosen an FAG aftermarket part from Autodoc to put on. This is the kit I used. To fix it, you just raise the car, take the wheel off, and then remove the brake drum (handbrake off!). The bearing unit has a cover plate that you need to tap off with a flat head screwdriver and hammer. Thereafter, there's just one 12 point nut that can be removed with the right sized socket and a long breaker bar. The kit also came with a new nut and cover plate. The whole bearing hub unit will just slide off by hand. No puller required. Fitting is just the reversal of that. The nut torque is 70Nm + 30 degrees. I only got to about 25 degrees before the nut totally bottomed out, so it was fairly tight by then. The new cover plate was a bit awkward at first, but a few taps with a nylon hammer soon got it into position. Hopefully this helps with diagnosis and repair of a failed (or failing) rear bearing on a Citigo.

First wash today, only had the car 2 weeks and front and rear mud flaps installed.

No tips I’m afraid, other than to find a better garage. I had a rear reverse camera fitted and the wiring was routed under the plastic sills. I’d sooner figure out how to lift the sills than drop the roof liner…

I can’t see how this could work. The EPB and the piston are kind of separate entities. Yes you can push the piston in but it will be blocked by the EPB which is on a worm drive. I don’t see any way of retracting the EPB manually. I used VCDS - it is a simple process, and when you have finished and put the EPB back to normal more, it does a bit of chuntering whilst it works out the bite point of the brake. I have heard of people getting around using a diagnostic tool by disconnecting the EPB cable and applying 12v directly to the motor, but this seems so much more difficult than just using a diagnostic tool, with lots of scope for causing damage. Once the EPB is retracted, you just push the piston back in.

Thank you all for your comments and wisdom. Ive FINALLY placed my order for a leased 1.5 tsi DSG SE Technology, in Quartz Grey, after must tooing and froing, due to there being no Skoda Estates in my previous spec , which was the 2.0 TDI SEL and agents trying to sell me a different car. On paper this one ticks all the boxes and is within budget. I should know tomorrow when it will be delivered.