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Change of heart, I can't bring myself to scrap the old girl, I'd rather get an MOT and sell it to someone who can get a few more years out of it. Parts for the MOT came to £300 with labour likely to be £500+, a sale in the current climate should cover my costs and help towards something else.

I not only supplied files for the Octavia, but also for many other systems and modules like OCU, VC, mib2, men3 systems etc

Just for clarification, in the past I supplied a lot of files for free. The costs that I made then we're not high and I could cover it with other works However since last year the costs for my official access has really increased to an absolutely crazy amount, hence why I ask a small fee. I can't do this for free anymore. If you don't want to pay a fee, fine no problem for me.

Problem solved ! If anybody else will have the same issue and find this thread, I post a follow up. Some people with exactly the same problem has got the transponder antenna ring at the key hole replaced. I also tried that, but it wasn't the problem. The issue was the ignition switch electronic - copper powder from the worn PCB seems to have been stucked in the space between to sections with a short circuit as result: The name/text of the DTC (module 09) seems to be used for many ignition/KL15 related failure, and is somewhat misleading in this case ("KL15 short to plus") It was not KL15 that is short to plus that was the root cause (it was the result), it was the key position "ignition" signal (not power) from ignition lock switch that seems to be present ("to plus") in a forbidden combination with other key lock signals, and then triggers the DTC Steering wheel module, that is the module that receives the signals from key lock switch, will not recognize any problem, because it has not the whole picture I think. By comparing the ignition key lock related "measured values" (VCDS) of Steering Wheel module to another (functional) similar car, I realized that it was something wrong already at the signal output from the key lock switch (although that module didn't recognized it was anything wrong) The electronic switch unit is possible and easy to replace as a separate part of the key lock (some homemade tools needed at the arrows to release the locking tabs): Disassembled the switch unit and as can be seen there is a lot of "dirt" at some isolating spaces between the sections, "dirt" that was found to be somewhat conductive:

Have returned after visiting Darkside to change the last remap and a DSG tune which REVO couldn't do. Very high EGTs to the point of being dangerous in the long run. (Darksides words) So Darkside did their magic and I came back with a bit more power and torque and safe levels of EGTs. In hindsight, should have gone there first to start with honestly. Also changed out the expansion tank for one without the silica bag. Wonder who at VW thought that was a good idea?

Most of us can spot fake news in a second.

SE Drive hasn’t got the Drive Mode select as standard

Now with photos 😀

Hi Phil This video explains it all. Mode selection is from 01.39. https://youtu.be/fWEDeOLmRAA?feature=shared

To select on my car you press the mode button button down by the gear selector. The mode selection appears in the centre screen, and you then prsss the mode button to move it to the one you want.

I take it the adjacent AC post was not suitable? I'm guessing 7kW rather than 11kw? Was the Buzz waiting for a charger or was that just for 'cool points'? 😎

'now based in Australia'.... so knows very little about whats happening on the ground in the UK and evidently gets his news from the Daily Heil. Really balanced piece.... These VED changes will make ICE vehicles more expensive for most but I suspect the effect will be most stark on leasing prices where VED is paid as part of the monthly. For those buying (whatever form it takes), VED is an often overlooked part of the cost of ownership, so likely will not be a factor in the buying decision.

Dunno about any other, but I’m more than happy with my facelift 1.4 Tsi. The car does everything I want it to.

That's humourous and all but you should come back when you can demonstrate you can catch that diesel covered patch in front of someone who pulls out on you without the aid of the stability control or abs. I bet you put winter tyres only on the front too. Insults and snide remarks asides, it really does make a difference unless you know the pressure difference required to make them rotate at the same speed. A different tyre profile will rotate differently under load and the stability programs aren't designed to cope. One of the reasons the speed is limited is to allow the driver additional reaction time due to the unbalanced tyre layout making it unfamiliar. Not necessarily just the cars ability to function.

I know people say there's no such thing as a stupid question, but I have a feeling this might be the exception. I have recently taken delivery of a new Skoda Karoq 1.5TSI SE Drive DSG. Done a couple of hundred so far happy miles in it so far. When I explain that not only have I never owned either an automatic or a new car before (the last vehicle I owned was a 1999 Land Rover Defender, in which the air conditioning consisted of a flap under the windscreen that you pushed open to allow air in...) you will hopefully understand why all the bells and whistles are taking a wee while to understand. I've done OK, I think, but now we're getting to the less common functions. The latest thing that has me completely stumped is selecting the driving mode. I have the handbook, which helpfully explains all the differences in driving modes, and then says to press the mode button, which features a little car flying over the top of the word "MODE". What I can't figure out is where the button appears. I've been through the Infotainment screens with a fine toothed comb with no luck to date. Looking back through the forums, someone kindly posted a photo of where to find it on a manual drive Karoq, but where is it on an automatic? Or is there a chance that my particular model doesn't come with driving modes?

Hmm it’s likely the whole unit is faulty of this is anything to go by get it booked in sooner if I were you, because it’ll be costly and they’ll bound to mess you around with “well it’s past 30 days now”

Issue with the EVO2 engine and the manual gearbox, easy way to tell it comes without an engine cover. Introduced maybe late 2022, also reports on other VAG car forums, ie T Roc etc with same EVO2 engine in manual.

I thought the spiral warning symbol was for glow plugs.

Ah okay, so yeah sounds like issue with car then. Whenever it does it film it on your phone, then get it booked in and show them the videos. The GPS is in the shark fin attends on the roof, Skoda label it as GNSS I suspect they’ll need to change that or check its wiring at the minimum.

Hi. Had my Superb for almost three years covering 79500miles. I've been impressed by the interior space as it fits almost anything you ever could imagine put inside the car. Reliability has been awesome, a broken damper, boot lid lock and some knocking on the front suspension. At one time it wouldn't start but it cured itself after a couple of minutes. I've never been a friend of the driver seat, for my quite heavy body 105kg @177cm it has to little cushioning and the shape of the backrest doesn't do any good for my body. The massage function is a gimmick that's nice to have but I won't miss it. Ventilated seats on the other hand is god send Comfort is ok, to much road and wind noise, with DCC in sport it gets quite stiff but it doesn't improve the handling that much (,normal driving). Comfort mode is my melody - floating around on the road Rear seat must be among the best there is!? Specced the steering that only has two turns end to end, really nice when going slow, parking etc. ACC does what it should, adaptive lane assist and everything working but I've only used them for a couple of hundred miles as I hate the feeling of someone else taking control of the car. 3zone climate control, it's okey but could have better cooling and heating, always keeps this in "sync" and won't miss it a bit. Heater and Skoda connect, heater ok, basic performance and Skoda connect has been really dodgy, never knowing when it will work made me use the remote most of the time. Headlights - low beam ok but high beam is a joke, installed a led bar as I drive on country roads with more forest than people and often when it's dark. Washe fluid tank a little on the small side, would have appreciated 6-8litres capacity. Rear view camera - God send! Really good resolution and functionality no matter how ****ty weather or dark it is. Columbus head unit - really hate the touchscreen. Not that fast but does what it should. Canton - I'm one of those that doesn't like the sound it produces, to much treble and low end, nothing in the middle. Good for electronic music though. Towing capabilities - pretty good actually, nothing to complain about except the DSG when doing tight manouvering. I guess this is common for all brands of these boxes. Haldex - ok performance, programming must differs a bit from Volvo as it feels like it's slower in it's reactions. Never gotten stuck anyway That sums it up - a good and reliable car, everything I complain about is subjective things that matter to me while others couldn't care less. Also the seats surely fits many others perfectly. But where will I go now? I came from a Volvo XC70 (my wife's car now) and will return to Volvo. Just signed the contract for a 2021 V60CC B4 AWD some sort of mild hybrid diesel with a whopping 14hk 48V electric motor It does miss some of the features of the Superb like adaptive chassi, that steering wheel thing, ventilated leather seats etc. But sound level in cabin is lower in the standard model, specced laminated windows all around in my order, makes a big difference in the XC70 and I believe it will in the V60CC also. Seats fits me better, climate control has more oumph for both cooling and heating and the overall finish is a little bit comfier than the Superb (my opinion). Someday I might come back, but for three years from now I will be hanging in different forum. Wish you all the best!

Trouble free I don't know I have the hybrid and are able to charge both at home and at the office. Same engine as in BMW 225e, 1.6ltr To be honest I strongly believe in that both Volvo and BMW are better cars than the DS4. Only reason for going with the DS was the 18 month lead time on a new V60 T6 hybrid. Company rules dictate environmental friendly vehicles. Hope you find that the seats in the G21 is as good as in your old car!

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/524537-almost-1500-miles-on-a-single-tankfull-of-diesel

This is our 24 SEL Karoq with the TSR and Lane Assist turned off.

Correct, you will have to pay the follow on rate. But the dealer will have had to pay the first year rate which will push prices up.

@Reeky No point telling me what i might think about tyres. Been there, done this or that there, done it wrong sometimes, had, it and tried it. Managed to live to be older and wiser & still occasionally have fun driving when alone in a car. Drive with one leg and that was from the early years, i have been in a field or 3 since and upside down in fields and ditches.

There is too much joy about. Here is the Reverend I.M. Jolly to stop that dead. Those struggling to pay the rent, heat or eat best not go buy a New High Emissions car with a First Year Road Tax costing Thousands of the GBP then. Lay off getting those new big gas guzzling SUV,s and such for your trips to golf & sailing club, livery stables and going to the races. 'Buy him a coffee.'

It is on PCP but trading in fairly shortly. Already had first MOT and is on flexible servicing - sure pollen filter was done at year 2 and had new brake pads all round a few months back.

Yes - still stalls if the revs drop too low - suspect that aspect is a characteristic of this engine, which seems to not tolerate 'lugging' at lower revs? The throttle does however feel more positive and I find it easier to modulate, especially at lower speeds👍

Thank you, it is something i want to do at my next oil change. So far rest is good but i am ready for other things to be replaced anyway. Currently on 100k km so let's see.

Yes, as stated I have replaced gaskets including the pan. They compress and harden with heat and age. So long as the pan is not distorted, it will fix it. It's an easy job. I wouldn't worry about the revised part number, elring gaskets are fine but up to you. A part number suffix can change for the most minor of things sometimes. If you haven't changed the thermostat and waterpump yet, I can guarantee you will do I'm afraid. They're not a lifetime design, even latest versions use plastic shaft seals and other compromised detail. And they're so active they get a lot of adjustment from the actuator and ecu control. I don't know what mileage you're on but normally you can expect replacement by 70k miles at edit: latest. But if it ain't broke yet, no need to mess with it unless you're in there for something else.....

service is next week - infotainment said oil service due but I have booked oil and inspection service but I think they would have done the extended scope if required - brake fluid change is extra but I am not keeping it long term so just wanted the routine service done - cost is £200 odd (prob nearer £300) but I will pay any shortfall once the plan is terminated - getting the plan also covers me in terms of breakdown, warranty etc until it is traded in

My 2.0 TDI also has no heat and coolant leak with no visible leak. Currently on 152000 miles. Yesterday it dropped a full tank in a few miles though, with a fair bit of "smoke" and water from the exhaust and research is pointing me to the EGR cooler being at fault for the coolant leak. The heater matrix being blocked will be why there's no heat. The silica bags in the expansion tanks are known split, but there's also sand from the forming and rust from the coolant in the coolant channels that block the matrix. Not a quick job if done properly. My original expansion tank still has the bag intact but I have had an orange tinge to the coolant which suggests a presence of rust in the system and will need to be flushed fully for a few hours. Head gasket failure seems pretty rare on modern VAG engines, unless it's been majorly overheated. My other 1.9 Octavia had the click when starting from cold, battery was very tired. New battery and it's been fine since. In terms of being reliable, yes they are. But with everything modern there are small issues. Also things wear over time, and 'just' 161k miles is generally a worn in mileage for the engine, but a good life for the things that are bolted onto it!

John, let us know how you get on, I've only taken it off once or twice so may well have left something out or easily have forgotten (even if I'd done it 100 times). You also need to remove that airbox to get at the spark plugs (so you might as well change, or at least clean, the air filter then too (VWŠkoda have the change schedule too far apart for my liking). Having priced up the plug spanner and other bits I didn't have with the plugs I decided to leave it to the Dealership and as my wife has lost faith in the car she said she'd not have it 4 years later (to me it's got to be run into the ground for the price she paid for it s/h).

I've found on pretty much any car there are always things listed that are not correct and it really saves a lot of wasted time and effort if you make sure you know exactly what you need before buying rather than trusting the system to bring parts up with the registration.

I have every update from @Rainesh - never had a problem, always before my local authorized dealer could do it for me.

Ross-Tech are negotiating with VAG to add SFD unlock into VCDS, they've jumped through all the hoops and paid VAG a princely sum so now it's down to VAG's glacially slow procedures to make it happen. You don't need to keep power applied when changing the 12V battery on an ICE version (can't comment on iV versions), the errors that will appear when the new battery is applied will clear after a short drive. If the thought of errors appearing upsets you then by all means use one the easily available backup leads.

Replaced cylinder 1 glow plug as it was showing a light. Was well due. Came out easily considering it's most likely original. Might just replace the other 3, can't imagine they're far behind.

But it is really unswitched (or at plus level when it shouldn't), because the ignition/KL15 relay J329 is still enabled (controlled by module J519). And I'm afraid the ignition key switch information is sent by CAN, from Steering wheel module (J527, that has no fault codes). Not easy to measure:

You must be in 2 cylinder mode are you not, foot off the accelerator or light pressure and no load on the engine. Your car can deactivate the cylinders regardless of the mode you are in. ACT / Active Cylinder Technology.

Many thanks 🙂

It was never an option on the TDI models as far as I known. Pre-facelift 230 TSI and facelift 245 TSI.

Thank you again, @bigade1. 👍

Thanks again Bigade 1 CJL

I don't think it's anything to do with the cars I think it's your driving styles. Mine is fine always change down gear around 1250, then you got the grunt to carry on or pull away.

Thanks for this super useful data!

Just offering another viewpoint, hope you find a satisfactory answer. Most forums do tend to prompt discussions though.

Many Thanks Once Again !!

Anyway: Hashtag Bring Back Neons. Had the front and back door speakers upgraded to Audison APK 6.5 and 165P, along with sound deadening. Everything sounds so much clearer and brighter over the standard drivers. And be strange. Life's too short.

No one said it was a criminal offence - It's a civil matter. Are you 'Most people' then? Because most people I've interacted with be it at shows, days out, charity runs, driving down the street or being overtaken on motorways, have been nothing but smiles and thumbs up 🤷‍♂️ Either way, I'm over the one ****e comment, because the huge positive response I've had since then has completely outweighed the single negivitive.