Leaderboard

Welcome. Try resetting the TPMS, that is how things work. Apparently pumped up and reset is not enough. You do not know for sure. Check the pressures, and reset the system.

Solved. Happy days. Frustrated with the garage I removed the fuse box from the car to check my own homework. Despite taking photos of the wiring before I removed the original, it seems like I had 2 of the wires in the wrong slots (Fuse F7 & F8 I believe). I removed these connections and reinserted them as per my old photos. Very annoying the garage didnt think to check my work as I stated on multiple occasions I had fitted the part myself, hey ho. I cleared the EML after reinstallation and it has not reappeared since (this was on Saturday morning). I have done a few hundred miles since. It also seems to have sorted the starting in cold weather issue which is why I originally changed it. Yet to have any properly freezing days yet though. Any questions about this just let me know. Replacement of the fuse box was relatively simple, using a bobby pin/ paper clip to disconnect the wires. James

I would leave the DQ200 DSG well alone. There are 2 oils in that box, in the MCU and in the Box, it is not 'Sealed for life' it just has not Service Schedule, guidelines, advice or recommendations for oil changes. The Timing belt is not due for change. That Recommendation, Schedule, Specification or Advice was changed last June / July. The Water Pump gets changed when faulty. This is not a TDI.

They are in the Car Trade Business. A deposit is one thing, and paid on a credit card for protection, but if their business is wanting paid for a vehicle still In Trade or maybe not even with them as the Registered Keeper they are not getting my money. They could be in Administration overnight. At least 'Skoda Approved Used', HPI checked. Get them to send the Report from the Rigorous Workshop Checks of the vehicle, and the Full Service History. The Body Check report etc. Thanks @Gaz for these from your Skoda Approved thread...

I can't see why; my bank wanted to reconfirm my authorisation of the funds after I did the transfer, but that happened literally minutes later having told them roughly when the transfer should be.

I'd say so. I've not been asked to pay in advance before, and would not. But I was able to pay by card and the money was transferred immediately. That was on a new vRS - I'd actually gone to look at a Blackline, but there was a stone chip in the bonnet which was a deal breaker. With your car I'd want to see the scratches gone completely, to my (very fussy) satisfaction before they saw any more of my readies. Gaz

Hi All Wanted to start this thread as while there are many many posts on the topic of firmware updates to head units, not too many seem to cover the actual process end to end so thought it may be nice to share the guide i put together from multiple sources and i wanted to make it as detailed as possible to help anyone in the same boat as me.. I will try and answer in this post all the questions i had to save you the bother of looking on loads of different sites and threads Full disclosure:- As an IT professional all my life, I am familiar with the inherent risks and problems which can be associated with Firmware updates, but I don't know cars at all. Before going ahead, I did a lot of reading, research googling and you-tubing so be warned the process may be relatively simple but if an update like this goes wrong, it will cost you to have it fixed and I'm sure running the update will in itself invalidate any warranty. Any updates completed are 100% at owners' own risk. Neither I nor the forum site BRskoda maintain any responsibility for the process or any files downloaded or the source from which they were obtained. I cannot supply a copy of the source code please used don't ask, nor can i tell you whom can or might, but they are out there. You know who you are and you have my deepest and sincerest appreciation At the time of writing my Mib1 unit was running 0435 and 0490 was I believe the latest available. The Update file I used for 0490 was named MSTD_EU_SK_P6230.zip These are only my own findings and results when running a code update on an Ambulsmen MiB1 unit this process could change in future releases. Your outcome could be different. Before posting the below I cleared with moderators. Initial Prep Think do you really need to want do this..? (I had unimpressive DAB reception and very poor response on the touch screen using v0435 I heard it was improved in later releases). I wouldn't do it unless there is a likelihood of it definitely fixing an issue or problem which you are experiencing. Check and Confirm what sort of unit you have. Press and Hold Menu button for 5 seconds. Obtain below data as pictures and refer to another source to obtain the correct and appropriate files for download. [I strongly recommend using multiple virus checkers on the file or performing the initial extract a virtual environment] Personal Recommendations Plan and re-check everything (once started you cant stop it) Be slow and methodical DO NOT rush Print off the instructions and process to work through. Give your car a good 40 minute spin out on a quick road to top up the battery without using any utility which may put extra strain on the battery. (See this link to check your battery Status https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqM79n7MeJw ) Run the update during the day for better light and so you wont need to use the cabin lights to see what you are doing. Disable daytime running lights to prevent additional and unnecessary battery drain. Get out and check your lights are actually off. The upgrade process will take 45-60 Minutes be prepared for that. - Do use a battery charger or jump pack the unit could well brick itself if power continuity is lost midway through the flash. I got one in a well know UK wide Auto-parts store for a shade over 30 notes. [Beware the charger you use will need to be Start Stop compatible if that's a technology in your car]. A big shout out to the below whoever you are you helped me build this guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWXJI8V9OEc&t=213s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Sj5-KHuhRk https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/378192-amunsen-mib1-firmware/?hl= amundsen https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/480534-experience-of-upgrading-the-firmware-on-amunsden-mib25-system/ Process Format an SD card as FAT32 (mine was 32Gb). (Use a clean one not your SKODA one) Using 7Zip extract the contents on to the SD card. --- This should leave 3 Folders and 1 Text file on the SD Card. With the car ignition off remove any inserted SD cards CDs and USB media. Insert SD Card containing the Firmware Update in to slot 1 Attach battery pack \ charger confirm it is working as expected. ----- TURN ON IGNITION ONLY ----- ----- DO NOT START THE CAR ----- ----- ENSURE LIGHTS ARE OFF ----- ----- ENSURE AC \ FANS \ HEATED SEATS - ETC ETC are all OFF ----- Power on the ICE unit Press and hold Menu button again for 5 seconds Choose Software Download Versions Select Update Select the source (SD Card) [all others will be greyed out] Select the Release version detected First the Metadata will be validated Press Start A note is displayed say how "The update may take longer than 60 Minutes to complete and not to start the engine or interrupt the process once started" is shown Click Next The appropriate code will copy from the SD card to the unit The Unit will now restart and then download and restart multiple additional times (About 15. I lost count). (Up to this point the process will have taken approx. 20 mins) The Software update process will now create a "Mirror Copy" (multiple horizontal lines showing a copy percentage against each of them) When each line has finished its copy and reached 100%; The Unit will reboot, upon resume it will start on the next line The Unit will start another set of multiple Software downloads and restarts. The Unit will restart again When the screen Titled Software Update Result is displayed Click Update Summary Review the updates applied and return to the previous page. Click Close If displayed Cancel the Diagnostic Tester warning to check for error codes. These will however be visible to your Dealership upon service have them cleared for best practice. The Unit will restart again. [For the final time] Once the update has finished wait 5 minutes for any last background processes to complete Press and hold Menu for 5 seconds to confirm the new version is running. (Now expected to be 0490). I Started at 12.05 and following the above my update was complete by 12.48 Issues in 0435 Touch Screen not responsive DAB stations missing from radio + reception often poor (where i know we should have reception Was considering upgrading external Ariel) Playback from SD Card would not move on to next Album (when organised in to folders) SatNav UI well a bit "basic"... Status in 0490 Touch Screen 100x better DAB radio now works like DAB Radio (I live in a not so hot spot for reception.) Playback from SD card fixed Not had opportunity to play with the NAV yet (will try and post tomorrow) Conclusion:- If you have the stones for it; and you do have similar problems the upgrade is well worth the effort. IMO Update 0435 is S*!t and is full of bugs... Keep the wheels turning guys. Have a good one

Hi Been offered a Skoda Citigo elegance 1.0 late 62( 2012) plate for £2400 private sale. 50000 on clock and recent new clutch and front brake pads. All MOT in past shows only failed a few times due to tyres and irregular disc surface( can’t remember exact wording.) Seller is relative of trusted friend who is going abroad to live. Is this a good deal and anything I should watch out for with car of this age, still to look and drive it. It would be for my wife - short distances, mainly city driving so low yearly mileage thanks

Yes brake light works but it might be a 4 cable switch, 2 for brake light and 2 for ecu/dsg unit?

Thanks for the info @Tilt. Yep it's going very well so far, ta. No repetition of the horrible rattle. Things I've done recently: Cleaned out intake manifold. Wasn't as bad as I expected. Fitted a new genuine engine air filter and gave the MAF a clean, initially just squirting some isoprop across the film, then with an aerosol of 'proper' MAF cleaner lent by a colleague a couple of days later. I could convince myself that it goes better and chucks less smoke out of the back as a result of these things. Filter wasn't at all grubby though TBH. Attempted to get one of the pinch bolts moving, and briefly succeeded, but then it jammed up again half a mm to the left. Took a lot of getting back to 'done up'. So I ran away and left it for another day/month/year. Latest game is to see what journey average mpgs I can get on my commute. It's probably near ideal, in flowing, but slowish traffic at 7am, maybe 45mph most of the way. I've finished the journey with an indicated average for the journey of 60mpg a couple times in the last week or two, which I suspect isn't quite real, but it's pretty good. For as long as I have to do twenty-odd miles twice a day, it might as well be as efficient as I can get it. Always seems to be slightly worse on the way home. Prevailing wind effects, and/or possibly a steep hill I go up very early in the outbound journey, bringing temps up much quicker than on the flat start of the return journey??

The new article does appear to confirm the sports exhaust and no fake engine sounds 👍

I'll have to have a play with it and see what works. I do have most of our music on a USB stick in the car but the horrible UI on the Infotainment system makes it hard work to find and play music - even for a passenger who can concentrate on the screen, so playing music from her phone would be far easier for her.

Is this when the battery is full? Common issue with this platform due to there being nowhere for the electrons to go when pressing the brakes pedal. In this case you have to press quite hard to fully engage the mechanical brakes and it can feel like the car is pushing on like you describe. This is especially apparent as the brakes are usually cold at the time.

Just to add to this, My 65 plate Monte Carlo 4x4 started doing this on Monday and I did a quick search online which lead me to this post. Then I have seen atleast 6 different posts from people all over Europe with Yeti’s and it has happened to them in the last week or so? Very bizarre?

Phew...sorted. You're right. Those expanding rivets on the front mudflaps are annoying. They readily went through the plastic of the mudflaps and seemed to go into the drilled hole on the plastic lining, behind, but then completely refused to 'spread' and so languidly fell out with the merest movement of the mudflap. As you say, the flaps looked quite soldly in place without them, but I hate to be defeated so persisted (sort of!) With much effort, and patience, I managed to get the driver's side rivet to remain in place (for now as I'm not confident!). However, on the nearside I resorted to using an old Subaru spreading-rivet left over from when I put mudflaps on that. These are much more user friendly. They're the same size as the Skoda rivets (depth and diameter) but come in two parts, with a central pin, which you push down into the main body of the rivet, once it is in place, and the pin causes the rivet to splay and remain in place. They're useful because by removing the pin you can retrieve the rivet out again if necessary. The rear flaps were a doddle once I saw Mumpsim's helpful diagrams. Next it's the spare wheel kit and space saver wheel fitting. Again, no instructions and Skodapartsonline informed me that they're aren't any, and didn't point to where I might find one! Thank goodness for Briskoda!

They are a right pain, when I tightened them they worked themselves off, so followed somebody's advice on this forum and left them off, now on my second Karoq and left them off this one as well

The car was parked in my own garage all the time, and there is not specially strong sun in November, its really strange thing, the car have usually small rutes of driving, there was only two routes that has been 600 km, after them this wasnt hapened. This hapend after but dont know when, i own this car 3 weeks with totaly 3000 km-s...

I think there were a couple of Merc models that had both sports exhaust and sound actuator a couple of years ago, but it's defo a weird move. It looks like there was a press review event on Isle of Man in the last day or so, so expect reviews to land shortly.

Does this help? it may be for the pre-facelift, but perhaps the fixings are still the same.

Forget what a 3 cylinder 1.0 TSI MHEV does. But the similarity is the 1.5 TSI does need to fire up. The engine can stop while coasting, and you can have drive from the battery. EV mode only. It is not the same as a PHEV though for running in EV mode.

Hi all, I changed the fuse box on my car myself for the same reason as @kpugh. The cost of the part was around £100. I also spent £48 for a VW "specialist" to take a look at the car after I had an EML post install. Frustrating to pay £48 for no gain but it teaches me to be more vigilant when changing parts in the future. If you know what you're doing the part swap should take less than 2 hours. If anyone has any questions about changing the fuse box just let me know. Caveated - I am not a professional mechanic (clearly!). Cheers, James

Yep it certainly would have. I’m a Millhouses lad myself lived just off Archer Road.

I genuinely hope these were proper VAG parts (as non-genuine parts could potentially cause you problems). You can get devices to test the injectors and measure the pressure as well. So, if that's not the issue, then its going to be fuel pump or fuel regulator. At your mileage, I would also check the fuel lines, make sure they aren't rusted or leaking (again, would cause low pressure issues).

Do you really get taken in by nonsense like that with AI voice-over?

The schmoo pictured looks like saline reacting with moisture. I have seen similar with bowls of salt left to reduce humidity and also on the Laurel Garland I won at Brands Hatch, it remained green and never turned brown, I had not realised it had been treated with a saline solution, I hung it in the rafters of my garage above the race car and when I kept finding water pooling on the bonnet I thought my roof was leaking, it was the crystals formed on the Laurels becoming saturated with moisture and dripping.

Hi all, I managed to get one from a breakers on line for £50 delivered. I got it off Ebay. The LHS ones are rarer than rocking horse dung. New ones are £125 delivered off Skoda Parts Direct. I ensured it was liberally lubricated before fitment (I used a little bike chain oil as its very thin) and fitted. All ok now. I took the old one apart out of curiosity, and inside the mechanism, it was dry as a bone. The cable had corroded inside the housing. Suggest the only way to prevent this is to periodically remove the door card and lubricate the cable, winding it up and down to distribute the oil. Bit crap design and quality to be honest. Part number of mine for LHS was 6V0839401A. Hope this helps. Steve

As I don't use diesel, I don't know the chemical composition of Adblu. Certainly worth trying warm to medium hot water first. Keep away from any wiring connections.

It may just make economic sense to obtain a used transmission from a car breaker and have it fitted by an independent garage that do not charge top labour rates. Nobody buys a brand new transmission for a 10 year old car unless an insurance company is paying.

@Aspman'The Gin Bothy' or 'Bothy Larder' more likely. http://ginbothy.co.uk (The lookalike but i think newer one has the registration HAM but it is parked at The Cross.)

The 80% for pure Lithium is just a warning not to keep doing as it will eventually harm the battery's capacity but doing it one a week/weekend, over night, before that long trip seems to cause no perceptible effects in the first 1100 days I have had the Zoe ZE50 and that does not even have the more advanced systems of the Scenic where you go in the car before charging and set it to 80, 85, 90, 95 or 100 % the night before a substantial journey. Going to 100% once a week seems fine of Lithium, just not good to charge it to 100% every night and leave it for day or days, that is not so good. As said above with LFP just charge it right up and have it sat their on full charge. LIke Lithium the batteries are getting several percent better every year on energy density but Lithium seems to maintain a bit of a lead over LFP fairly constantly. I always have one of the cars sat on the drive with 80% ie 200 miles range if I need to go somewhere and on occasion we have used my son's full hybrid Clio, little 39 litre tank but with 500 mile range. I think we will keep a hybrid until 80% battery is 300 miles plus, which it would have been if I had gone for the 87/92 kwh but that is not 300 motorway miles. Renault are very honest and if one really bats it purely on the motorways, probably in technically illegal speeds, say indicated 80 mph in UK, indicate 130 kph plus a bit, then I don't think one would get 200 miles or about 300 kms. The Scenic comes with a modular battery pack, in about a dozen chunks, and with the every falling price of battery packs, LG Chem in Renault case for the Lithium batteries, mot LFP come from the People's Republic of China. we need that Cornish Lithium mining being ramped up ASAP and the Somerset battery factor also got on lines ASAP if the world is to enter Trade Wars as predicted under the Trump era.

Rebuild now complete, splitter added in carbon of course.

Thanks for the response. Our Fabia does have hill hold, the slope of our drive in front of the garage is just enough for it to roll back but not steep enough to engage hill hold. Based on your suggestion I have changed how I drive the Fabia into the garage. Foot on brake engage drive, release footbrake, position foot over throttle (but dont press) release handbrake and then it creeps forward with a little throttle. This seems to provide enough time for the DSG clutches to engage and to start the car moving. My current Karoq is the 2.0 TSI withe wet clutch DSG, my previous Touran was 2.0 TDI with wet clutch DSG, they both creep more readily, I was wrongly expecting the Fabia to behave the same. More importantly the DSG box is working correctly and it was the user at fault!

It may mean i cant drive car away and need to make another round trip London -Midlands. I guess its better to be safe on a 19k purchase?

A couple of scratches and i had forgotten to check tracking and emrgency stop

The 215/45R16 tyres on the Fabia MK3 use a 7Jx16 ET46 rim specification. Fitting 195/55R16 tyres to wide 7J rims will make the ride noticeably harder compared to fitting the 195/55R16 tyres to narrower 6J rims, such as 6Jx16 ET35 or 6Jx16 ET40. Using narrower 195/55R16 tyres on the 215/45R16 rims (ie. 7Jx16 ET46) will make the tyres look sunken into the wheelarch. The Rapid that is sold outside Europe fitted its 195/55R16 tyres to 6Jx16 ET40 rims. Bear in mind, that the 15" wheels on this Rapid use the same 185/60R15 tyres that the Fabia MK3 uses...so it is only the 16" wheel size that is different from the Fabia MK3, ie. the two cars aren't that dissimilar. Another problem with fitting 195/55R16 tyres to relatively 7J rims is that they don't provide much rim protection from kerbing damage because the sidewalls are stretched rather than bulging out. The below chart helps to explain this lack of protection from kerbing damage when fitting a 195/55R16 tyre size to a 7J rim. As you can see in the chart below, the 195/55R16 tyre size bulges out from the narrower 6J rim more than twice as much compared to fitting it to the wider 7J rim, ie. 12.3mm versus 5.6mm. Amount 195/55R16 tyre bulges out each side from rim 195/55R16 fitted to 6J rim width 12.3mm 195/55R16 fitted to 7J rim width 5.6mm As you can see in the ETRTO chart below, the 195/55R16 tyre size can be fitted to a rim width between 5.5" and 7"...with 6" being the standard rim width for this tyre size, and hence highlighted in bold. ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 175/70R14 4.5-5.0-6.0 185/60R15 5.0-5.5-6.5 195/55R16 5.5-6.0-7.0 215/45R16 7.0-7.0-8.0

+1 👍 What are the 'couple of things'? Gaz

Perhaps they need the money to pay for the "couple of things" ask them why?

It read the file and said it was completed. I guess it doesn't have those logos in the database

It's fairly easy to service yourself if you're remotely handy with a spanner. You can pick up the bits needed for around £80 or thereabouts.

51pence a kWh, £8.80 to get to 98% and 95 miles indicated. Expensive enough for 55 miles. Edit. Down hill to the Harbour and at 100,% 105 miles after 4 miles. Must just try to 97% next time.

Skoda (in fact all VAG) temperature gauges show 90 degs for a wide range of temperatures (too many owners were reporting problems which were just normal variation in temperature when going downhill or driving hard), so don't believe the temperature gauge as an accurate measure of actual coolant temperature.

did change mine just now, looks much better IMHO.

One caveat to heated steering wheel if you have it. I managed to disable mine by changing an option in VCDS long coding as in button didn’t work and got a new steering wheel under warranty as Skoda engineer didn’t realise either. There are about 4 different steering wheel models to choose from and to get it back I just trial-and-error’d and it came back. So if it doesn’t work and it should it could be that the software is looking for a different option. I’ll go back and find it if you need it. It’s one of the last bytes in HVAC or Central Electrics.

Unfortunately it is very much to do with the UK royals according to Skoda. https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-uk-celebrates-coronation-of-king-charles-iii-with-new-royal-green-colour

Agree 100%,have fitted them in my kitchen diner after the builders only fitted one switch in an inaccesible place!

Kinetiq wireless no battery switches and recievers, superb quality, many permutations available, I have used 'and continue to use) loads of them, very good for creating 2 way switching where the wiring is not in place for such. Available direct or through Ali-Express often a bit cheaper but they cost buttons for what they do.

Re the battery maybe at fault, I bought one of the testers below, it's been invaluable for the three cars I've used it on recently. Also I had a SEAT that started throwing up random fault codes, the battery was 4 to 5 years old so I didn't think it could be that, car started fine and all that. I was wrong, my local garage tested the battery and the diagnostics picked up the same faults that I picked up from my simple OBD2 reader. He then said battery test, after the test it showed it was weak, yes it would charge but not hold a full charge. Anyways new battery solved that problem, no more codes thrown up. I then bought the linked gizmo to test myself the various batteries I had. It worked on a Mazda battery, showing it was weak and needed replacing, that was 9 years old but still doing a decent job of starting the car, I replaced it anyway. My Kamiq has thrown up codes, mainly the SOS one, battery tested and all good. That SOS message seems to be a thing with some VAG cars I've read, software update maybe which I've not got around to having checked. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372436652444?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vrAwd99DT4i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=PjrX0wOKTfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

So a little update: EVERYTHING WORKS. Let's start a "Journey Diary - Guide" so that everyone that wants to do it can follow the steps and update. First of all, the previously mega link posted above (here) contains all the files needed. I did everything myself with the help of @Lennart, not diffucult at all, but the responsability is yours alone. Updating from the ancient 0156 is not that difficult, it's just like any other update for the MIB3, but it breaks Navigation System. This is intentional and it's because Skoda changed the license and offers Navigation as a SWaP now. You can check in the Service Menu (long press menu button) that no 00071C00 FEC is installed and in the supported FECs it doesn't even show up as available to install. According to the 2 TPI in the mega folder (one older in English, one recent 2024 in Italian) Navigation is now a SWaP, and since it already was included in the car package when bought you can reactivate it using the codes that Skoda provides to re-enable it. Tool necessary to do the update is any OBDEleven or VCDS or any other tool that can do SVM (Software Version Management), but to re-enable Navigation ODIS-S is needed. ODIS-S is a dealer level software, so you have to rely on a dealer to apply the SWaP or to someone that has ODIS with a valid Geko Online account and the necessary hardware to connect to the car. Just go to the dealer after all the updates, you can bring the activation code or ask them to provide it, is in their ODIS Service Net and can be also obtained from Erwin Portal online. In the first TPI it's stated that the OCU (Online Connectivity Unit) has to be flashed first. Before doing that use any of the tool to go to the 0075 module (the OCU indeed) and in adaptation you need to change the Crash Signal to "via CAN". Once applied format an usb stick to fat32 or exfat and unpack the version 143 of the OCU update named 5WA035284OCU143.zip in that stick. Insert the usb stick in one of the usb-c port and long press the Menu button for 3-5 sec, reboot in Engineering mode to start the update following the TPI instruction. Once applied it will reboot and the infotainment will be working as usual. Using OBDEleven or VCDS or ODIS-S you will see that you have a fault error B201A, it's normal when doing an update via usb without dealership computer, it can be easily fixed by updating SVM using a xor tool that can be found here. It's nothing critical, you just have to tell the MIB3 that the software is new. Now you can proceed to do the actual MIB3 Update: format the usb stick unpack the first sequential package MOI3_EU_SKMQB_R23802P + P26810P + P27800P.7z in the root folder, go in the Service Menu and then press Update. The software will auto check the usb drive and since everythin is signed by Skoda it only applies if the file is the correct. It is almost an 1h job and it will reboot multiple times (5-6 at least), since it's not incremental everytime it has to delete the previous and reflash. After this you will land on SW version 278, MIB3 will work fine except that Navigation wont start. If you go in the Service Menu you will see that the Predictive Navigation FEC 00071C00 is not installed but it will be present in the available tab that was not present before. You can do a SVM fix again. Re-do everything, format the usb stick and unpack MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30600P_0306.zip, apply again in the Service Menu and wait for it, will probably need 20-25 min. On reboot, do the same with version MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30800P_0308.zip than you can find here a then again with MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P33000P_0330.zip that will bring you to the latest 0330 version that was released i think Jannuary 2024. Remember that after each upgrade you have to confirm the installation change. Once done you can finally check if everything is working except of the Navigation System. To fix this you have to enable FEC 00071C00, and as said it can be only done by adding your specific activation license code and unlock pin (that work only in your car and vin) and only using ODIS-S Online, so if you go to a dealership to activate it he surely can and already has your data to do so, else just bring the code with you and let them restore it. It can be found in the excel sheet in the mega folder, just search for your vin and you will find it. If you have the necessary tool to use ODIS-S yourself (like i did), connect to your car and perform a FFS (Function Activation), proceed with option 1, enter the 3 values when asked and apply them, it will ask you to login online using Geko (DSS Login) and let ODIS-S check with the servers if the codes entered are valid, after a 20sec wait or so it will be verified and unlocked. Now Navigation will start again! You can check in the Activated FEC and you will see that 00071C00 is enabled and valid. This is not a hack, it's not some sort of dark magic, is just exactly what the dealer does when they perform an update. Since they often wont do it (if aint broke dont fix it) or refuse because "risky" now you know that you can do it by yourself, files are publicly available if one know where to look and how to find them. And since the latest update is not cumulative you cannot apply the latest to a very old version they would charge you a lot of hours to do it.. well actually it is cumulative but it wont apply because security check will not pass so be patience and follow the TPI. Enjoy. R.

Final Running Release Data Shown Below (POST UPGRADE)

Initial Running Release Data Shown Below (PRE UPGRADE)