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The DB5 was a still from my dashcam, so a bit grainy, but stunning in the flesh though! The Porsche was in a multistorey car park:

So after having a few bits kicking around for long enough, that I'd ordered online. I finally found the time to give the car a bit of love. Debadged and added some cleaner looking Skoda emblems front and back. New gloss mirror caps due to a few chips and fitted the smoked, Audi style repeaters. Finished off with new numberplates, going for a Lamborghini style on the rear just cos I thought it matched the boot angles nicely. Gloss black roof wrap, smoked rear light units and front fogs courtesy of The Wrap Pod in Featherstone West Yorks. Then an amazing job done by Aaron at Aztec Valeting & Detailing in Altofts West Yorks, with interior valet & single stage paint correction and machine polish and ceramic coating. Due to a mix up, gonna have it back in with him in a couple weeks time for calipers repainting and all 4 wheels refurbed. I know the colour is a bit Marmite, but I love it! Definitely feel the detailing was money well spent

Parts fitted, new nice MOT present I forgot the new rear end would require 4 wheel alignment until I drove the car 200 yards away from the garage. OMFG, the car leapt around the road like nothing I've experienced before. The alignment jonny showed me the read out on the screen showing 6 degrees out both sides ... technically that means nothing to me, apparently it's a lot. 15 minutes later, £100 poorer and with a feeling I've just had my bottom smacked, but the car is now driving perfectly so I'm not THAT bothered.

@RattleWagon Not the best weather for pictures, but here's the back

Thought id give the intake runners a walnut blast. Surprisingly not terrible for 65,000 miles Before: After: Regarding tools used: A 3D printed manifold cover An air compressor and sand blasting gun 20kg of walnuts.... I used about 1kg at a push so if anyone wants to buy some, please let me know A vacuum So all it really cost me is crushed walnuts and some plastic for the 3d printer, everything else I already had!

First improvement I’ve noticed:

It's a box full of metal and water.

Checking the battery voltage off load with a multimeter doesn't tell you a great deal unless it is completely dead. The starter and even the starter solenoid take much more current than anything else. Things may initially look OK with a weak or discharged battery when you turn the key to the first position, but as soon as you engage the starter solenoid the loading will cause the voltage to dip right down. There may not even be enough to engage the starter, and all you get is a click as the starter solenoid pulls in part way. I suggest charging the battery from a mains powered charger. If you use one of those typical 3 or 4 amp types this will take maybe 24 hours. Then try starting while an assistant measures the voltage at the battery terminals, if healthy this should be no lower than 9 volts. Assuming the engine starts, then check that you have around 14 volts showing which indicates that the alternator is charging. Rather less likely but still possible is a poor (high resistance) joint somewhere in the starter or solenoid high current circuits or the earth return to the battery. In this case, even with a good battery, voltage will be "lost" in the resistance.

So first things that need checking: Have tyre sizes been checked to see if all 4 are exactly the same Have tyre pressures been checked and exactly what they should be - front and rear may be different Has the system then been reset through the dashboard and then the vehicle driven Have any fault codes been checked to see if they are stored If at this point you are still getting faults, we then need to start thinking of a possible wheel speed sensor or wheel bearing fault. How long after the reset does the light come back on - in terms of mileage and time.

I echo what Mr annoying voice says about the Zoe, at least the ZE50 with its 52 kWh, 55 kWh actual battery size. If I hammered it on the motorway in the depths of winter I might get as low as about 160 miles before the turtle appears on the digital dash. But I do not hammer it, just cruise along at an indicated 60 ish and as seen a couple of days ago I do 245 miles to Liverpool and back without charging. Yes arrive back in Worcester with only 3 % but charge it up to 70 % overnight, for the princely sum of about £3 and it will get used for my next journey to Liverpool, London or Manchester after a top off charge the evening before to take it to 100% charge cost another pound or round about to be ready for those 210-240 mile round trips. If the temperature was -5C, -10C or -20C in the morning I might ask to borrow my son's Clio etech hybrid with all the waste engine heat being used to keep me toastie even though with a 400% or so efficient heat pump in the Scenic and Zoe the energy usage the heating power consumption rarely seems to get up to even 1kWh but in a 5 hour drive that would be 10% of the battery barring I will get back a few kWh from my regen which usually seems to cover what I might use for heating. I sometimes think I should have gone for the 370 mile WLTP European Car of the Year version with the 90 kWh battery but hey ho, Renault would not take back the Zoe as it was so much in negative equity but that seems to be turning around as I think it has actually gained a £k or two since summer time, ironic when we are always told that EV are best between late spring and early autumn. Perhaps the upcoming hike in VED and the continual news that EVs are generally cheaper to run with energy costs, servicing and VED is filtering through to the general public psyche ?

There is no risk, fuses and batteries are meant to be replaced, you can even by aftermarket ones just at a gas station. They are accessible so you dont have tinker with any other parts of the car. They even give you a fuse remover tool in the engine compartment fusebox... BTW removing the fuse didn't work for me, but just disconnecting the battery and then some minutes later reconnecting did work.

Simple truth, they can be Bl00dy expensive cars to run for many who do not have cheap home or work tariffs. Cheaper charging might require to park the car and charge away from where they live. Even that charging for longer on less powerful chargers might not have the cost of charging cheaper than running a petrol or diesel car.

New to the forum and this is my first post! I had the pleasure of buying a second hand citigo from Oldham in Manchester for £4250 with 43K miles. I bought from Plymouth and drove up with my stepdad to collect. This replaced my aging Toyota iQ that had awful paint peel and was having some age related mechanical issues. after 8 months of ownership I noticed rust around the fuel filler cap. After getting onto my local ŠKODA dealership about it, they offered a partial warranty repair and expected me to pay either £400 or £800 depending on the level of work. I wasn’t happy about this as they said it was essentially my fault for not getting a body inspection done. I argued back saying that the car had a full service history with a Volkswagen dealership and surely they would have done this. I stuck to my guns and got in touch with ŠKODA head office and explained the situation. After 8 weeks(!) of them working on it, I got a phone call from the local Murray ŠKODA again saying they were going to cover the full repair FOC and gave me a walloping great big Kodaq to use without charge too along with a massive apology! just heard from them today too and they said it needs a full panel replacement. I’m glad they’ve done it but what a hassle. if anyone else is going through this explain that THEY should have done the body inspections as per their servicing schedule and ask them why THEY didn’t do it.

Getting colder today........

Some V2/V3 are open to all. For example all of Scotland ones above the Glasgow/Edinburgh belt. Octohere regularly charges at a V3 from his photos. All V4 are open to all. Sounds like V2/V3 will revert back to Tesla only avoid this regulation, which is rumoured to happen before year end. https://www.speakev.com/threads/first-tesla-v4-superchargers-in-uk.179536/page-31?post_id=3688531#post-3688531

1896, but not 1806. I'd seek expert advice before attempting that if I was you

May well be linked. If it was the main fuse I assume no lights at all so thinking earth fault at battery or bad terminals? Alasdair

We used New Bridgegate Tyres in Barnard Castle. https://www.newbridgegatetyres.co.uk/about-us I've been buying tyres there for many years after previously sourcing tyres from MyTyres. They seem reasonably competitive on tyre prices, fitting, etc. and while they are Hi-Q affiliated I've also on a couple of occasions found Asda Tyres can also be bought and fitted there too. However, this year Asda were only selling the older, discontinued, version: Pirelli Cinturato All Season Plus 225/50R18 PIRELLI CINTURATO A/S+ 99W XL at £159. What I appreciate about NBG tyres is that they are friendly, appear conscientious and they have never (as I've heard other retailers try on) tried to 'sell' other services they've 'noticed' we need, such as when my partner has visited on her own. They have an excellent reputation locally. They'll happily chalk up tyre positions to aid rotations, such as on the Subaru, and fit tyres in place accordingly. ALL SEASON

5000k to 6000k for modern LED Skoda headlights. Yeti Xenon's were 4300k from factory although many replacement Xenon bulbs available to 5000k and some "Blue" Xenons to 6000k

Mines 2020 and bought in August approved used. Apparently the amplifiers can just go. The new one was £20 so decided to give it a go and only takes 2 mins once the tailgate trim has been removed. Mine uses the heated rear window as the aerial.

The osrams are fine, and we've bought the Philips ones for our latest Yeti (but not fitted yet as lights are pretty good now). The Philips ones were highly rated when I looked into them.

That's mine done.

Good to hear you have resolved your issue. What is your plan to replace it ?

Smart

I think once you get into an AI car, you will be able to tell the difference

Couple of photos taken last night in an empty car park illuminated by LED lamppost!, after I'd spent all day applying AutoGlym Super Resin polish followed by a coating of HD wax to protect it for the winter. Wish I'd wiped the moisture off the windscreen though!

Anyone who is completely disillusioned by the lack of progress by Skoda to find a fix I would definitely encourage you to reject your car and request a full refund. I’ve successfully managed to do this over recent days. I made a formal complaint to Skoda Uk which was quickly escalated to their Senior Management, in addition to requesting a full refund from the local Skoda Dealer from where I purchased the car. This resulted in Skoda & the Dealership in dialogue to resolve my case; I understand the local dealer have greed to resell my car once a fix is released, with Skoda UK covering any financial loss the Dealer will potentially lose due to reduced valuations. Skoda UK don’t have a leg to stand on as they have sold a car which doesn’t operate correctly with no current fix.

Sympathetic to that idea - Karoq done last year too

Those with no children, partner or friends to borrow a car from or money to hire an ICE vehicle might just have to make do travelling with what they have, parked out on the street as they have no off street parking. If -20*oC the traffic might be moving pretty slow or not moving. Many a frozen up windscreen / washer liquid. Mostly that will be EV,s with frozen washer fluid.

Google Greek to English translation. - A Man with Honor (1960) Nikos Kourkoulos, Bad Analyst

Do Skoda selectively fit different, sub-standard halogens in different models? I struggle to see how some drivers think modern halogens to be lacking. I find the standard ones fitted to both the Octavia and Fabia perfectly adequate in all driving conditions.

I think you can probably see where this is going ? We looked into this with our previous 2015 Yeti with halogens. In the end we just got some better bulbs and accepted the standard headlights limitations. Our 2017's lights are definitely better (+30%??) and we could also upgrade the bulbs to give another 10%, but the (UK) passenger side is a fiddle to do so I'm not bothering.

I have only used the Auxiliary heater up to now while plugged in and charging. Trying now while just sitting parked. Seems to be not taking too much energy. The heated seat stays nice and hot once off and stopped long enough really as long as not getting out of the seat. It can not be on when stopped / parked and car turned off.

No you don't lose codification

Let me know if it happens again Greenliner1

I don't know, sorry. Many people are waiting for the fix. If it is so complicated it has taken 4 months to fix, and no light at the end of the tunnel Skoda must have know there was a serious problem when the car was launched and hoped they could fix it later. They must be guilty of selling not fit for purpose, and misrepresentation. I have asked for my money back but no success yet. A manufacturer calling its product SUPERB should make sure it is. This car is obviously not!

I think it's probably best practice to only have the update files on the SSD

Nice. We're on our own project here in Germany transforming SWMBOs mother's old house. Nightmare at times (one of us is a stickler for details and I'm not) but wish you all the best with your project 👍

At Clumber Park (still a few to locate ⛄) :

Update: after taking out the VW finance extended warranty deal (good value) for years 6 & 7 of ownership, I had a minor service included in it and mentioned if they could have a look at the lower arm bushes, quite expecting a similar cost to replace. Imagine my surprise when they had replaced the failed bushes under the extended warranty! Just need to get the tracking checked as the steering wheel is very slightly off which is hardly unsurprising. I could have argued it’d be part of replacing suspension components, but hey I’ve saved a bundle so a hunter 4 wheel alignment wouldn’t be a bad thing anyhow.

I wouldn’t personally, I don’t know for certain but I can’t see VAG group missing an opportunity like that to void a warranty and save cash.

@PlatinumCupraRVery different beasts, 1.5 TSI Active Cylinder Technology & a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG. Even these do not all behave the same depending on year built.

All check your PMs

I can also add something to this but I can't say for 100%. I built a testing rig to measure charge and discharge of the used 12V EFB+ battery, supposedly 72Ah when new. I am a bit surprised and for this reason doubtful but seems like the battery only has about 25 Ah capacity left, so about 35%, while the on board system was showing as it having 83% of capacity left - usable battery capacity when full. Sadly I do not have a brand new battery to test this out and see how much charge I can put in and take out, so take this with a big amount of salt, but basically I did this 2 or 3 times now, measuring how much energy in Wh and Ah I put in and get out and it seems to be at the 20 - 25Ah range. In the screenshot you can see all the curves, altough because of some error the top left is marked "Wh", it actually represents the voltage, I current in amps, and below power and amper hours, This is the discharege of a fully charged battery. And here are the charging charts of a fully discharged battery (around 11.6V empty) For anyone wondering - this was done with INA211current sensor and ESP32 microcontroler, the dummy load was a heater element. I also did another test where I connected the used battery to a 12V to 230V inverter, connected a handheld vaccum machine to it, and it was able to put out about 500W, powering the vaccum, while the voltage on the battery dropped to 10.8V, so about 2V, if I can trust the voltage indicator on the inverter. Using a much smaller 12V battery, that with my tests puts out about 12Ah of capacity, the vacuum would not even start because the voltage drop on a much smaller (not a car lead acid battery) battery is so high, the inverter doesn't work. I am planing to use this used battery with an inverter for camping reasons or for a portable 12V refrigerator I have, should be able to power it for like 2-3 hours.

Android here and is better now for Android

Can you be more specific? What change have you noticed?

Well, despite the original "no", the after sales manager has had another go, and the result has been a lot more favourable this time. Hopefully I'll have the car back before too long

They do make millions and Skoda produce millions of DQ200,s for the VW Group Models. But this is a DQ381 with a growing percentage of MCU failures globally and still nothing from VW Group accepting any fundamental design, manufacturing or material faults. The problem is that you are only hearing of the issue on Social Media / Forums because Motoring Journalists appear to be ignoring the Elephant in the room. Still a 80,000 miles Service / Schedule for Oil changes, but many are failing before 40,000 miles or even in the 1st year.

Last week I made a light sleeping equipment to be added to Roomster as needed, and during the midsummer I made first three nights fly fishing trip to north east. Everything worked quite ok, middle frame wasn't sturdy enough so little bit of wobbling while climbing in, and the bed plane didn't stay levelled. Bed was straight enough for sleeping, so not a biggie. Because the car is used mainly on other duties, the camping equipment should be easily removed and stored, so I made it mostly foldable. The parts are attached with one gargo cloth and few zip ties, so its quite fast to put on and take out. With everything on, there is plenty of room for sleeping and stuff needed. Bed is comfortable for one, maybetoo for two very small persons or persons who like to sleep very close together. Main area is 100cmx140cm and the add on on the passangers side is 60x70cm so it's quite nice. I wanted to make it driveable while the bed is on full size to avoid hassle while changing locations, and you don't have to do a lot of setup. The add on is foldable to give normal room to your right shoulder while driving. I'm going to make some little upgrades, but the basic idea is good enough now.

I did the installation myself on all the doors. It was not an easy task. I spent many hours thinking about it. I finally made the decision and did the installation. The door paneling needs to be removed of course. Then, removal of the plastic piece that in the best versions accepts the lighting. Carefully cutting a thin line with a dremmel and gluing the LED strip. Some photos from the "project" The inside of the card door. Must be cutted with dremmel of with a iron solder. After the removal of the plastic trim. The plastic trim Masking with tape and ready for cutting. Trim after cutting. The "gap" is almost 3mm. I glued the LED strip with 3M double side tape. I put the plastic trim back to its possition. I used a solder iron to melt the joints. This is the final result.