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Battery tech has enabled greater AH and CCA in a given battery size, it might have decreased the self discharge rate on certain chemistrys, longevity is certainly not what it was 10 and 20 years ago even on the factory fitted batteries which are made to a higher standard than the exact same battery on the aftermarket. What has not changed and cannot change is the laws of physics, a battery is an energy store, if parasitic consumption (which is far higher on modern vehicles) drains 25ma over 40 hours then 1 Ampere hour of reserve capacity will be removed from the battery whether it be EFB, AGM Li-ion or whatever, the same today as it was 10, 20 or 100 years ago. @carefree I am not trying to come across as clever, when I see misinformation that could be to the detriment of a contributor seeking advice I challenge it, you of course are free to disagree but the nature in which you do so is not in keeping with the mutual support shared on this forum, Edited, I see the post in question has now been removed so I have deleted my final words requesting a refrain.

My 8 year old Moll EFB still testing at 80% - despite stop/start always being used would suggest that this function does not give the battery a 'beating' An idling engine produces emissions - for zero MPG.

'Should not'. Exactly, but plenty modern batteries do struggle after 3 months out of use. Or 2-3 weeks at a airport long stay car park. Maybe because of their age. But not always. Just a fact that you see at Dealerships when they need a Boost, as at auctions where a car might be only a few days sitting from coming off a transporter. RAC / AA ? Greenflag and other responders out jumping cars, changing batteries just because someone somewhere was that poor sod with 'No experience of cars whatsoever'. They just imagined it, internet myth.

Make & Model: Skoda Yeti 2.0 TDI 170ps 4x4 6 speed manual Laurin & Klement Colour: Jungle Green metallic Mileage: 114,000 Price: [SOLD] Description: Our family transport, a much loved Skoda Yeti - owned by us since September 2018. This is the top spec L&K so has pretty much everything you could want. This car originally belonged to @Gizmo so has been in the club from BRAND NEW. Any chance we can keep the car in the club? This has been an amazing car, and was my wife's dream car - but sadly she's now fallen in love with the idea of a Jaguar iPace so the Yeti has to go to a new home. With this car being the 170ps L&K it has pretty much everything you could ever want. My favourite parts are the panoramic sunroof (WHICH DOES NOT AND HAS NEVER LEAKED IN OUR OWNERSHIP), the brown leather heated seats memory function (so my wife has her position programmed to her key, and I have my seat position programmed to mine), and of course the off-road button which means it can tackle pretty much anything you throw at it. Condition: Used - very good Minor mark on the rear silver bumper trim. Other minor age related marks but overall in excellent condition and well above average for a 114k mile car Sun roof does not leak and has never leaked Couple of minor marks on the wheels, but again - very good for the age. I give them a polish & wax before I put them away every winter Everything in good working order to the best of my knowledge, including ice cold air conditioning Note: currently sat on winter wheels & tyres which can be negotiated as part of the sale This car has NEVER had the emission "fix" recall done, so it's 100% reliable and does not suffer from frequent EGR failure like most do! 2 keys Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Maintained regardless of cost Folder full of receipts, including original purchase invoice and ALL receipts under our ownership Originally serviced on flexible schedule, with Skoda dealer under @Gizmo ownership and since then we've had it serviced on fixed service schedule by an independent VW group specialist. Last service May 2024 at 104k miles - it's just pinged up that it's due in the next 800 miles on mileage, so will try and get this done before the sale Cam belt & water pump in October 2023 Haldex February 2022 MOT until June 2025 Front wishbone bushes in 2023 New rear brakes & caliper in October 2023 due to binding caliper Summer tyres are 2x Hankook Prime, 2x Michelin Primacy - I will get depths when I can Winter tyres are 2x Nokian WR-D4, 2x Bridgestone Blizzak - I will get depths when I can Repairs under our ownership: Replacement driver's headlight due to LED failure New fuel filler cap actuator New clockspring Firmware re-flashed onto the Columbus head unit Extras: Rear mud flaps Tyre pressure monitoring Electrically adjustable memory driver's seat Spare wheel Heated washer jets Luggage nets in the boot Columbus unit updated to latest maps We also have the following for sale which I'm happy to negotiate into a deal: A set of winter tyres on steels and genuine Skoda hub caps (which the car is currently on) Genuine Skoda roof bars Genuine Skoda reversible boot mat Fluffy Yeti teddy Collection: Derbyshire, UK In daily use until, will be available on 12th December when we get our new car Photos are all from this year but when I get chance after the storm has passed, I will give it a clean and take some fresh and more detailed pictures.

The OP has been unable to use his car normally due to health issues for 3 months and the non use will continue for at least another month hence him asking for advice. One persons normal will be different to another. I am surprised that someone asking for and receiving advice on a car forum should trigger you.

Jan - Mar is going to be a bumper sales time and some bargains to be had for those sitting on the fence Buy before end of March and no VED until 2026? Over £40,000 car purchasers could save £2,000 in future ved payments

I received this 1985 version as an OTA update. Car started to tell me a few days before that there was an update for the headunit. It took days/hours of driving while the ~1.6 GB data was finally downloaded - probably the servers were overloaded. Once it finished downloading and I stopped the car it asked me to confirm upgrading. Then it told me not to drive the car for 30 minutes. Probably it took a little bit less. Zero issues so far (drove the car 1 hour since then). My factory version was 1969 (also zero issues). https://postimg.cc/gallery/YY3mJ4T

Same here warrior still on my 8 year old original moll battery too ,now we have said that our batteries will pack in now 😂

Got Rusty out for a quick drive after a couple of weeks sitting and it sounds like a Subaru. Looks like cylinder 1 HT lead is failing. Lumpy at idle and pulsing at low RPM but perfect above 3500. Better get a new set ordered as cylinder 4 lead failed a year ago, I'm sure they will go one by one. Managed to troubleshoot without any electric shocks this time, which is nice

To the op ,chances are your car will start after being stood ,but if you have a smart charger to trickle charge and keep battery topped up then you know all will be good 👍

King Charles has had that Aston Martin since 1970, I think it was a 21st Birthday present

With some impartiality, you could take your own advice... You comment on a post specifically about an abnormal occurance, and your advice is to be normal - really great, valued and considered input. As JR says, the OP has left the car for autumn and half of winter without starting it. While I think it will start, I personally would charge it a bit first as I suspect it will have a low SoC. I wouldn't be suprised if it doesn't. Most dealerships trickle charge their cars and they are quite literally brand new. Most supercars trickle charge and their batteries are quite modern.

Rolls Royce is BMW and Bentley is VW? Never sure i get those owners the right way round. If BMW and VAG need to sell those brands as they head towards financial losses as it is looking so one wonders where the ownership will end up ?

You believe the car has been remapped for more power yet still don't have enough power to exceed 60 mph? 😕 The throttle body is used to create a depression to draw in EGR gases, it also has an important role in stopping shudder on engine shutdown and in the extreme save your engine from destroying itself if there is an oil leak in the turbocharger. I would never drive a diesel without a throttle valve or some shut off device, I suspect that yours still fulfills the secondary purpose but not for EGR, that is the situation for my vehicle with an EGR emulator/simulator, if the butterfly is sticky or the geared linkage to the potentiometer damaged you will still get the fault codes and limp mode. That is to say unless the mechanic fixed the original problem you will still suffer from it I believe.

Electricity is the ideal fuel for a Rolls Royce

In answer to the question does the alternator generate the energy? - no, it doesn't directly - it acts to reverse the chemical reaction the battery cells undergo on discharge. The chemical composition of the cell plates is changed between charged and discharged state.

@100andthirty The Finland.psf file is the first - of many - "unexpected error 0x80004005". I tried skipping all such errors and installing the resulting update on my Columbus system - the system told me that it could not find any update source! I have alerted Skoda of the problem via email and via facebook messenger - up to now no real help but if we all complain to Skoda we stand a better chance of getting the obvious problem resolved!

That fixed it, cheers 😎

Hahaha brilliant. I’m nowhere near triggered mate, just telling you how it is. A modern battery should NOT struggle after 3 months out of use. If you/ anyone thinks otherwise then you need your heads wobbling/ or you have no experience of cars whatsoever. Aside from anything else, what’s it got to do with you? Wind your neck in🙄😂😂

Santa 🧑‍🎄 is coming in 2 weeks

Hello Lyes Not quite sure what you mean by '... delete it from the ECU and unplugged'? Unless you've had major work done, your car needs a throttle body in order to run. Deleting the EGR I can understand, although the merits of doing so will have mixed opinions on here (i.e. Briskoda). Remapping a car that has a known throttle body problem sounds an odd thing to do (to me at least) without further information. Do you know what the problem is with the throttle body, and why the mechanic decided not to repair or replace it? Gaz

Yes, that's how I updated the Navigation database; I wasn't using an empty USB.

The facelift models have yet to break cover physically in NZ but from what I've seen and read so far in reviews and their accompanying images (as well as the official downlodable brochures), it seems that the larger touch screen protrudes quite a bit above the dash top. Maybe I am being my usual pernickety self but I think this spoils the uncluttered look of the cabin, The side assist would depend on your driving environment. I have found it useful when backing up long drives or exiting a parking slot when bounded on both sides by tall vehicles such as crossovers, SUVs and pickup trucks/utes that are so popular these days. DCC was something I was also thinking of not having but my car was built during the time of the chip shortage crisis and was mandatory with the so called Premium pack. It does provide a more comfy ride around marred, potholded streets - important to consider if yours is being specced with 19" wheels. I have not experienced any Mk4 Octavia with manual seats as all the vRS demonstrators here come with the powered option. One thing to consider is whether the base cushion may be tilted with the manual seats as even with the powered perches, the base feels a tad flat for my tastes. Hope the above helps and enjoy your new ride.

1st one is gear specialist shop... I had the car taken to the 2nd mechanic. After inspecting the car, he said that it was gearbox oil overflowing.. There is no leaking from the gasket he fixed. He said that he might have topped up with too much fluid while he did replace the gasket. Well, he gave it a good clean with spray and asked me to keep an eye.. If still there is oil leaking then he will do further investigation.

A very good summary 👍

That's about what I got at 91.000 miles and now at 130.500 miles I'm getting about 35MPG. Even asking mechanics about it I don't get anything close of an answer why. Dropping it off at a shop to look into it could end up paying for nothing that will fix it, so... I've just tried some injector cleaning agent as well as DPF cleaning agent in my last fill up, so I'll just see if that does anything or not. I know that it can be hard to diagnose faults without having a look at the car, but I've only been looking at getting pointers to where to start looking. Even asking about the functionality of the DPF at my local shop makes me feel like I'm looking at monkeys just scratching their head and wanting me to just leave them alone. I refuse to just drop off my car at a shop without having a feel for what it could be and how much it could cost as well. That's like giving someone a gun and ask them to rob ya, point blank.

Pretty sure orange ones are programmed to a particular corner of the car so you probably need to move them to the correct position. Black ones 'self-learn' and will quickly relocate to the correct positions whilst driving. Nothing to do with the TPMS module position.

That's a good sign since 24.10 is more up-to-date than 24.06 (October v June)🫡. Your over the air beats off air. Only when you come out of contract for online services you do it.

Probably... I have the Torque Lite app on my phone and have used it with a Cheap ELM327 Obd dongle before now for displaying live data. You can add dials and displays to the phone screen to show the data whilst driving and one of them is coolant temperature provided the vehicle has the relevant sensor If you have an Android headunit it could even potentially be installed on that

Thanks for the correction, would the same be said for a petrol or diesel tank? Do they generate energy or simply convert it? Is it not the alternator generating the energy? Answering my own question that is actually converting rotational force created by combustion. I agree with the self discharge and made mention of it a few times, 30 years ago it was the only thing affecting how long a car could remain unused and still restart, now it is de minimus compared to the parasitic discharge of the cars electronic systems.

I get the same error with Finland psf file around 10% if I ignore it then I get a few more extracting errors related to some image files around the 90-95% extraction completion. Bit risky for me to try when I am getting around 10 files that won't extract properly, but I have messaged Skoda to see if they can look into it. Tried using a couple of different zip programs but exactly the same results with this file HIGH2_P390_EU_202445. @MartiniB are the links below you posted on another thread to VW exactly the same file we download from the Skoda portal? # ECE 14.0 GB Version: V03.959.821.AR 390 ECE 2025 DevVersion: P390_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q1.24 VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P390_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/P390_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z Files inside: 2024.04.04 Downloadable: 2024.10.15 Published: 2024.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH2_P390_EU_202445.zip Files inside: 2024.04.04 Downloadable: 2024.11.14 Published: 2024.12.0? Cheers

I quite like the proportions. It has a look of a petrol car rather than a Lego motor driven kitchen appliance. At least it is interesting. I remember when Chris Bangle started to style BMWs and hated his original version of the 1 series with its flame surfacing, hideous, it looked like it had broken its back. But... after a while it looked fresh and original and the idea of these curved surfaces started to appear on other BMWs, perhaps in a slightly more subtle way, owing to the larger surfaces to work with, and I started to actually like them. Nowadays, we see these surfaces everywhere on all sort of cars, although perhaps BMW is now moving in a slightly different direction again. So I say "go for it" Jag, go down swinging, or go home. Mind you, I love elephants, but I wouldn't want to own one though.

I've had a strange experience in that a .psf file relating to Finland results in an error when unzipping. Does anyone know if this will this prevent the update from working?

It will be appropriate. Just not the recommended oil by Skoda. That is the VW508 00 /509 00 so yes 0w 20 FS IV. If sticking with Long Life oil why not VW 504 00 / 507 00, but 0w 30 FS III Fine for Fixed ot Variable service intervals. (I would be doing fixed service intervals and non Long Life oil so VW502 00. 5w 40 FS, )

Crumbs, who'd have believed it? Glad the boy wasn't hurt.

yes i have had the same and in the exact same conditions. last week below zero and snow and could only open the car with the key button. pressing the little thing on the handle only seemed to lock it while it was already locked. Also two doors (including the drivers door) wouldnt open from the inside. the silver handle did nothing. they only started working after a while. i assume after the water somehow got in there froze and needed to unfreeze. it worked fine with the handle outside but not inside. had to open the window and use the outside handle to open the door. will keep a close eye on this when it gets proper cold and also the windows are frozen shut abd then go to the dealer if it appears again

As I’ve said, I left said Audi A3 for 4 months a few years ago during a bitter winter. It started first time and I never once had an issue. You can talk about battery drain and the various things that will draw power all you like, fact is the modern battery cannot be compared to those in the 70s or 80s. Fact. Your battery drain will be offset by the advancement in battery technology, therefore a half decent battery SHOULD see you ok if your car isn’t used for a while. Not rocket science🙄

Acquired a similar vehicle myself recently, a 2007 and manual transmission but otherwise equivalent. Liking it so far, but lots to learn. @ColinD should read at least your first paragraph @dsolds.

Welcome, they are all the same common vehicles under the skin. Smart move re buying the car for the move 👍 I left my 7 seater Alhambra in the UK when I moved to France because the Octavia came up at a price I could not refuse 24 hours before, I had to do a load of repacking but was amazed at just how much it swallowed. Anyway I sold it on Autotrader or whatever it was back then, my neighbour handled the viewings so I didn't see the purchaser but was informed it was a Polish (I think) guy who wanted to take his extended family on their first ever trip back to Poland (or wherever) the car and fuel for the trip was a considerable saving over the air fares so was effectively free, I was chuffed that someone would get good use out of it.

Hello Today the car has been by dealer. There is an firmware update for skoda connect. BUT update can take 2-4h! And one hour is 113€! So for update must pay 200-440€. Tell me guys is this freaking normal?

Problem with all these schemes is that they are always in favour of working people, and then those are only for those fortunate to be working for a largish company, there is nothing for those working for small family businesses etc or those retired, carers etc.

I must admit, whilst I didn't want to say it, I am inclined to agree. The lowest mileage petrol Octavia I found on AutoTrader (UK car selling site) for your budget of c. £7500, with full service history, had 70k on it (112,000km) which isn't exactly low. It was also pretty bare bones and had the 1.0 in it, which won't get you anywhere all that fast. Most appropriate thing was something like this @maxroal I have been in your position. For my first car, I bought a very clean 2013 1.0 Focus. From a small backstreet garage in the Midlands, it had 55,000km on it, one owner and cost me 7200 euros. It was very clean, and everything checked out. Fast forward three months and it had virtually blown up, with a repair list in the thousands. Turns out it was a lemon, with an engine and gearbox from a different car. I managed to get rid of it for under half of what I had paid, and promptly emptied my bank account at a SEAT dealer. Anyway, my point is - if you don't know all that much about cars, while it is unlikely, you could run into the same issues I had. It might be worth waiting a while, or reconsidering things, and seeing what a main dealer could do a Fabia or something for. The last thing you want is to be thousands into a car that is nothing but trouble.

My guess is the mib2.5 hasn’t had the correct climate control adaptations turned on? have you got a photo of what your current setup looks like? As I assume the second photo isn’t yours if it has the fan speeds option. who fitted and coded the unit?

The majority of people who buy a car do NOT buy a new car. Used electric cars seem even harder to sell than new ones, which is not really surprising as electric cars have a much more limited life than an ICE car. I have never bought a new car and usually buy a one or two year old car that has had some of the depreciation taken out of it. For this I get a car which feels virtually new and has many years of life left in it. Doing the same with an electric car would give me a much shorter life and the car would be virtually worthless at the end of the batteries life. We will be in a situation where there are thousands of perfectly good cars that are scrap just due to the batteries being too expensive to replace. It doesn't sound very ECO to me.

Rather moist drive to Wellington and back a couple of weeks ago.

7zip is the best extraction tool, Vag recommended. Because of the encryption signature any noise in the file or wrong placement in how it's presented and it won't be seen. It's like mib2 high map presentation you have to get it spot on. A lot of posts in the past people were incorrectly presenting the file or it was scrambled by Mac OS. CleanMyDrive if using a Mac. They place a character sequence in each line which blows the signature encryption. These are just stumbling block in file preparation which stop the upload being seen.

The story... Brake booster, freshly rebuilt by Jay Stratton in California, and back to Taranaki in Aotearoa, via Oregon! Brakes back together and working. I sussed out my intermittent brake light issue. It seems the tail light insert eventually warps a bit over time and the metal tracks lift slightly from where they’re fixed with melted plastic tabs. There are brass leaves under the tracks which connect to the bulbs. The leaves rely on the tabs holding the metal in place to make contact. I added a screw to fix it. Then clicked why there’s already a screw, someone already fixed the same issue with the indicator. Next day was the WoF Failed, with a shorter list than last time. One indicator bulb had died, the belt to the hydraulic pump was cracking, and one headlight alignment isn’t right. The same headlight I spent ages sorting out for the last WoF! Replaced the belt, need a new alternator belt too but they’re not available locally. The top bolt on the alternator needed all of the swears to get undone. Next day - WoF round 2. Everything was sorted but the WoF mechanic had gone home. Finally day 3. Got to the WoF place expecting just a quick check and sign-off and she said "The left tail light is too dim". FFS The solution was to go to Supercheap and buy some Narva LED tail light globes, which don't seem to care that one tail light cluster is only getting 10 volts. $132 for 4 tail/stop lights and 2 indicators (because why not make them all brighter?) Finally the WoF was signed off. WoF passed, just in time for the road trip event that weekend. I was really excited for that, but unfortunately non car-related issues prevented me from going.

Well the job is done now, a very heavy transmission to remove weighing 68kgs!!! The thrust bearing was faced with plastic where it contacted the pressure plate fingers and had indentations, I dont think this damage was relevant to the problem but both my new release bearings had metal contact faces. The DMF had slight wear and the lateral oscillation may have contributed to the indentations on the release bearing or vibrated the fluid joint allowing air ingress, it was silent at low revs as is the new one but at high revs its much quieter, now its a diesel sound rather than a high rev death rattle. I decided to fit the aluminium cylinder so as not to risk a future problem with a 1ct O ring requiring transmission removal, I think my car may have been originally fitted with an alu cased bearing & that the clutch has already been replaced, some bolts were loose, the starter solenoid connector broken and other indications that the job had already been done by an inexperienced or slapdash mechanic. Also someone had abused the clutch, pressure plate & flywheel had burn marks, the pressure plate was dished, 1.5mm over a 40mm wide contact face and the drive plate worn thin on the outside only. The clutch and its hydraulics are behaving perfectly since replacement, also the gear selection is much improved as the counterbalanced quadrant that the cables attach to was loose on the selector shaft spindle (more signs of being worked on), so loose that the spline would soon have stripped and I would have lost all gears