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From Motor Authority newswire: Porsche is recalling 2,941 electric Macan crossovers because their headlights are too bright, which can reduce visibility for oncoming drivers and increase the risk of a crash. The recall includes 2024 and 2025 models manufactured between Mar. 15, 2024, Nov. 4, 2024. Headlight-control software in this batch of vehicles was programmed to European standards rather than U.S. standards, resulting in beams that exceed brightness levels specified in Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 108, according to the NHTSA. Good news that something somewhere is being done about too-bright headlamps but sad that apparently not in Europe, where it's obviously OK to fry the eyeballs of oncoming motorists. https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1145281_electric-porsche-macan-recalled-for-headlights-that-are-too-bright

I am almost done with the materials. Here the most important. Left radar 2Q0907685H Right radar 2Q0907686H (master) Bracket on the left 5E6907456A Bracket on the right 5E6907457A Connectors for radars [2pcs] 1J0973714 and pins 000979038 Plastic nuts for brackets N91018901 [4pcs] I desided to do the 100% retrofit, so i bought mirror caps and the LED warning lights: Mirror caps Black Mirror Cover Kit with Indicator Holes 5E30722530C F9R LED warning lights for side mirrors Left 5E6949145 LED warning lights for side mirrors Right 5E6949146 I searched a lot to find the name (code) for the LED warning light connector. Finally i found it: Connectors for LED warning lights MX19002S51 [2pcs] And a pair of connectors, for the wiring inside the front doors: Connectors for door wiring to mirror: 1J0973119 [2pcs] & 1J0973332 [2pcs] Next step: The wiring (i desided to do it myself).

This is obviously worrying. I suppose we really need a couple of things (of information). 1) What type of journeys do you do? Long or short - are you a progressive or eco-warrier in terms of your driving style 2) When was the car last serviced? 3) When you say you put in oil every 2-3000 miles, how much oil and what type of oil are you using? Things to check: a) Fuel Injectors - they tend to get a bit dodgy after 120,000 miles. b) DPF - my biggest concern is that you may have a block DPF. When was the last time your car did a full/long/hard regen? Can you either invest (or go find somebody with) - either a genuine VCDS or ODBEleven scanner - get a scan done and post it here pls?

I cannot influence how many greenhouse gases there will be in 30 years and what the consequences will be. there is not only Co2, but also Methane, etc. I have already written several posts about toxic gases coming out of, for example, Euro 5 or 6 cars with disabled exhaust cleaning systems, how cars with an "operated" exhaust system directly endanger the health of people in their immediate vicinity. everyone in this part of the world has the right to clean air and water, this distinguishes us from the inhabitants of Africa and similar countries where there are no standards for air cleanliness. no new egr, dpf or src is worth a person's health. ask yourself: would you have the same attitude if you fell ill with some disease of the respiratory system due to the fact that people disabled the exhaust cleaning systems in order to avoid adequate maintenance and repairs, but instead disabled the broken components to return the car to Euro 4 with its exhaust.

I am immune from pompous virtue-signalling, but you will find plenty of applause on here for it from others, if applause is what you desire. I haven't seen an appeal to <current year> for some time, so thanks for the trip down memory lane. Here's another trip down memory lane. A prediction for 2020. https://www.theguardian.com/science/2004/sep/11/meteorology.scienceofclimatechange

Not really as far as I know. The TC was twin SUs, I also had an alternator and an oil cooler off an MGB to cope with towing a caravan we had at the time. The handling on the road was a dreadful compared to comparative cars at the time, but it was cheap, reliable and never let us down.

Not for driver but all those people around him. Yeah cars without without egrs were on streets 1970-1980. We are in 2025. almost. Nowadays gasoline cars have catalisators, egrs, diesels have few more. That is life. All antipoisoning systems (EGR, DPF, SRC, GPF, etc) are mounted on cars because other people, walking or cycling around drivers to minimize inhaling poisons from exhaust. You are probably one of people that doesnt care about other people. I had egr on my tsi i i will clean its depozits but not remove system. I think about people around me, pedestrians, older, children. Behind my vehicle nobody needs to breath poison. Aldough i understand you. You are thinking about yourself, and all yourself, nobody else, no neighbours, nobody, just you and your car. You driving gasoline car, ok, but how can you tell orher driving diesels: blank it of, erase. It doesnt matter.

Just to close the loop: problem went away by itself after driving for two days, so all is well now.

Results below:

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

I guess best start then. Heres mine, a 2.0 diesel SEL collected on Thursday. Already filthy as had a 100 mile drive home in the rain. Best feature so far has to be the high beam assist, which is a game changer with hand controls. I quite like the traffic sign recognition too, it just adds to to an already relaxed drive. Slightly annoying is lane assist and having to turn it off every time. Worst has to be the gear selector position as it requires a bit of contortion for me. Tried holding the push brake with my right hand and reaching over with my left, but that’s way too difficult, so the solution I have come with so far is hold the brake on with my right wrist while selecting gear, but I’m sure I’ll get used to it.

Battery update - finally got round to fitting the Bosch S5 005 on Saturday morning. Immediate difference, car no longer strugglingt to fire up on inignition. Gave it a few good motorway runs over the weekend to get some charge into it as well. Used Liqui Moly battery terminal grease (and gave the positive and negative terminals a clean up at the same time).

Small world, My dad worked for Lex for a while back in the 80s, before he moved on to become a fleet buyer for Budget Rent a Car. You probably stayed at the Barn Hotel in Ruislip. It closed down earlier this year. Currently hosuing asylum seekers ahead of being redeveloped into flats.

You might like this hot of the press review... a lot!

What I have read they introduced an anti-stall / pull away assist in the first version of the software that increased the RPM to about 1800 rpm when the clutch pedal was lifted. It is likely that this function also closed the throttle when the car reached 10 km/h to synchronize the rpm of the motor with the speed of the car which in my car corresponds to 1100 rpm. They received a lot of criticism for this function, which made it hard to “crawl” with the car and changed the function in a later version, but it seems like they forgot to update / remove the “RPM restoration / synchronization” at 10 km/h which today makes the car hard to start in a normal way without getting a “nose dive”. It also seems like it is a general problem that affects many versions of their motors. From a business perspective I do not understand why they do not fix this issue. For me it is an easy fix and would make many people happy with their car instead of hating it. Now they are risking losing market shares and killing their brand. Audi’s slogan is “Vorsprung durch Technik” but this software is partly a gigantic leap backwards. I will contact Audi in Germany to see what response I get.

I think the consensus previously was getting someone in the car to spray the lights so you can grab the extended washer nozzle. You should then able to clip on the new cover

There are much bigger problems if he is getting Petrol fumes 😂

Good evening, I just removed the polystyrene, put the rim on and it fits just right, below is a photo, before I put one of my winter rims in 18 inches, however I had to put a summer tire without rotation in order to be able to put the tire either on the left or on the right. I had to buy the rim from the site below because it was the only one that could sell me the rim individually. https://www.larouecomplete.fr

I would expect an array of error messages ACC and emergency breaking as a minimum. Bits can be replaced and recalibrated but not straight forward from what I’ve seen

Just done a quick google to refresh myself and thought it might be worth sharing this. It seems there may be some trial and error required in some cases and not a clear cut adjustment as I first thought Since first working on the PD motors, we found the setting of the torsion value a bit of a mystery. The torsion value is located in VCDS/Engine Module/ block 4/ torsion value. We tended to figure that 0.0 was a good figure and originally let it go at that. However, early on, we had a Passat Wagon that lost 4 mpg when we set the torsion value to 0.0. The customer had us return the value to it's original setting of -.5 and the mileage came right back. Now we find that the value can be positive or negative a much greater degree. Most recently, we checked the value on a car that was in for an oil change. The torsion value was set at -5.7 and the owner says her manual transmission car averages 45mpg and on a trip will get over 52mpg! This is what we think is happening: The only way to set the engine for TDC is by using a crank lock, such as that sold by Metalnerd. We have been providing their timing tools for several years. However well the tools are made, we find that the hole in the flange that is used to pin the crank sprocket into position has a movement of about 1-2 degrees. There is also a question about the accuracy of the location of the front flange location hole that the crank lock uses. I think the hole location in the flange could allow another 1-2 degrees of error. The total deviation, given these two variables, could allow the crank setting to be off as much as 4 degrees, +/-. Since the cam position is relative to the crank timing, that can create a wide variation for each engine's correct torsion value. That would account for the reason one engine works well with a +2.5 reading, while another is working very well with a reading that is nearly -6.0. There is no TDC mark on the flywheel,nor is there any other positioning reference besides the crank lock to locate TDC. That takes away any scientific method of relating the crank position to the cam position. The only way I know to accurately locate the true TDC mark is to remove the #1 injector and with a dial indicator and find the piston rolling through TDC. I have noticed that in the Passat, there is a hole that is on the side of the block where a mark could be made. This may also be true of the other PD motors. I will look. But unless there is a method by which you can determine accurately where the TDC actually is, the setting of the cam's torsion value will be experimentation. Those wanting to optimize their fuel ecomony/ power should move the cam sprocket in relation to the cam shaft. Moving the cam shaft in the direction of rotation moves the cam torsion value in the positive direction. Just like the injection pumps for the ALH engine, the setting is very precise and a small adjustment makes a lot of difference. Movements of a few points and then either taking performance runs or recording mileage should give you an idea if there can be an improvement over the existing torsion value setting.

Yes that's too small. IIRC the factory space saver is 125/70/R18. I don't think a 16" wheel would fit over the front brakes either.

Best check with the Service Desk tomorrow with them checking with the Master Tech who can ask the fitter.

PS. The Corsa Electric is built in Spain.

Yes, the Battery Monitoring System needs to relearn a new profile for your new battery. It is highly recommended that you code in a new battery. Get hold of an ODBEleven dongle for your smartphone. That will allow you to code up a new battery and read all fault codes. The crank time doesn't seem overly long, so I don't think that's a major issue.

The Vauxhall issue is not the number of Sales or just First Registration of EV,s. In the UK. There are Legacy issues of being in the UK with it out of the EU. They were crazy with the pricing of the Corsa & Mokka electric but shifted many Brand new even during Covid Shutdown. Some pricing is still just ridiculous. Then the use of the Same platform for 3 different drivetrains.

sorry it was a joke haha that said I currently have rapid 2014 elegance spec alloys with 215/45/16 tyres which size tyres can i fit to this alloy that give a more comfortable drive I’m just going to purchase 4 new @Ootohere

As Carbon Dioxide Grows More Abundant, Trees Are Growing Bigger, Study Finds https://e360.yale.edu/digest/carbon-dioxide-climate-change-bigger-trees

Late to the party but I absolutely miss my pd130 octavia. Wishing you many years of happy motoring. Also.. post remap (more linear power delivery) made it a joy to drive.

P-J has got the right fob, and the video he referenced has shown me how to do it - hopefully I will be more successful than so far.

205/55R17

The OP doesn't say whay type of fob he has: if it's the type with a flip-out key then the procedure is completley different. Flip the key out & they just use a wide flat bladed screwdiver in the slot the key lives in & carefully prise the cover off. The manual says use your thumb but that didn't work for me.

Terminal 15 is ignition so: - if there is voltage present with the ignition off that's wrong - if there is NO voltage present when the ignition on that's wrong - if there is voltage present with the ignition on but it's not in the range 12-14V then that's wrong This is very basic vehicle electrics, so I have to ask do you have the skills to fault find this?

This is an option which requires folding mirrors and, to work properly (for the mirror to return to the correct position) requires memory seats. If you have folding mirrors but not memory seats you can enable it but the mirror will not reliably return to the correct position.

Wow! That was a struggle! I succeeded eventually. The bulb holder has two flat edges, and by gripping those and wiggling, wiggling, wiggling… it popped out. Once you’ve got it out, it’s obvious that the bulb holder is designed to be gripped and pulled with your fingers, but it is extremely difficult. So I’ve fitted a pair of canbus-friendly LEDs from eBay. They’re much brighter than conventional bulbs, and so far I have no dashboard warning. And they’re a nice colour match against the dipped xenon headlights. I would have preferred to use Philips ones, but I don’t think they do a canbus LED. I smeared a tiny film of lithium grease around the collar of the bulb holder (avoiding the finger grips, obviously) in the hope that they’ll come out more easily if I ever need to get them out. Time will tell whether they last. I’m somewhat hopeful. I seem to remember the failures I’ve had in the past were with LED sidelights housed next to halogen dipped beam bulbs, which obviously are on for long periods and the adjacent LED would get well heat-soaked. Next to the full beam halogen bulb it might not be a problem because you don’t use full beams for long periods at a time.

Video 'how to'. https://youtu.be/jBpux8Oyguw?feature=shared

Well Brian, when you decide it is time to give up being behind the wheel it will be nice to know you stopped with memories of a great car that has served you well rather than a lemon you wish you had never set eyes on - yes, Volvo V50, you know who you are.... I think I might have to try the E5 experiment as I always fill brim-to-brim and have a record going back to May 2013.Three or four tank fuls should be enough to show any difference. On a related matter, the consumption 1 figure is of little real value other than trying to get a figure of 50.0 or better after a bit of a run before turning off the engine but the more useful Consumption 2 readout was showing 41.7 mpg; I believe this is the calculated fuel usage or the past 10,000 miles rather than from new, although where I got that idea from I don't know. Out of curiousity I looked back at my records for the this May to November and these gave an average of 43.3mpg. Allowing for better fuel consumption in the summer than the winter it seems the Consumption 2 figure is pretty accurate for most purposes. A friend turned up in his new company car, a blue Tesla. Apparently you don't have to have white but anything else costs an extra grand! His children having demonstrated the "fart" function, how you can adjust the front passenger seat from the rear seats with a smartphone and that the in car audio has a karaoke mode his wife told me before she drives off in it she has to sit and input all the settings, such as mirror adjustments, air temperature, audio settings and a few other things I now don't recall before she will take to the road because she's worried about taking her eyes off the road to tap at a large large screen to make any adjustments. I can see her point and having had touch screens in laptops and phones for a few years now my feeling is that as they get older they become a bit more tempremental, which can't bode well for the future. ("Hello, I'd like a new TV-thingy for my eight year old Tesla". "Certainly sir, just sit over there and fit the defibrillator pads whilst I get you a price").

I think the OP is asking about the SAFETY Feature that stops you putting in a Petrol Nozzle instead of a diesel one at a filling station. They are trying to put in an Additive to the tank.

The problem with Ken's chemistry is that he neglects to mention that the oxygen comes mixed with rather a lot of nitrogen.

Hello, on my vRS MK4 I have a real 17 inch spare wheel and it fits in the trunk.

The Nox reduced by the egr is significant but it comes at a cost in fuel economy If the vehicle is not serviced correctly a diesel that is not burning the fuel efficiently will choke itself to death with the soot and get them off the road.

@imart143 - All hydrocarbon engines are designed to run on 2 chemicals; a design hydrocarbon and diatomic oxygen. The outputs from this process should be CO2 and H2O. Given this information, explain, IF YOU CAN, how Exhaust Gas Recycling actually improves this process. I may not presently remember enough chemistry to write an explanation, but I certainly remember enough to distinguish an actual explanation from the emotive male bovine faeces you've been spouting so far.

Brijo - I did a similar test between E10 ands E5 petrol on my Yeti and found that the MPG improved with E5 so that it about balanced the extra cost per litre. However, the Yeti ran a lot better on E5, smoother and greater power on gradients, just nicer to drive and be in so I only used E5 after the test. Interested to read your findings.

The skoda brand sd card is for your maps ,which can be updated by going to the skoda portal on the interweb ,as for other updates ive never updated mine 2016 vrs in the six years years ive owned it as it all works perfect and ime not sure if the updates actually change anything you can see ,i think its for if your having issues ,but could be wrong ,wiser folk will be along to help .

@freelunch @Nitrama26 - I got mine from the Skoda Update Portal. It's the Rest of the World (RoW) version. There was no issue with extracting the P393 zip file. The issue was the Columbus not liking the update. When I initiate the update.... After a while, this error comes up (excuse the finger prints).... Then it gives this message saying it needs to restart in order to restore itself...... I currently have map version P373.....

2020 Monte Carlo in Rally Green with the DSG box, believed to be one of the last to arrive in the country

More background than foreground!

This thread might shed some light… Im not sure if the e-Tec MHEV has a reduced boot space or not; hopefully someone on here can help with that.

Supermarket fuels on their own - long-term are not good for vehicles and fuel standards are different on a country/country basis (as the OP was based in Romania). However, we seem to get into this issue on a posting/posting issue and its getting stupid and disrespectful. I drive huge amounts of miles; I know what the cheaper fuels do to vehicles - they drive poorly, yield poor MPG, make the engine sound terrible and I've seen inside the valves and cylinder heads of cars that run exclusively on these fuels. Its not good. Fuel additives are there to try and improve the situation; either by adding back in additional lubricants and cetane that are taken out by the desulphurisation processes (diesel) or adding in lubricants and improving the RON values of Petrol. These lubricants are there to keep the various engine components happier. We are each entitled to our own opinions and experience; whilst you might not agree - please be polite in your disagreement.