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All very interesting this, and haven't received the verbal slaughtering I was expecting either! Thank you. As stated, including yesterdays alarming incident, this has happened twice now in 20 months of ownership of this 2016 model. Both times it's been damp, very yesterday, and both times the brakes have come on quite violently, accompanied with the ABS kicking in banging noise. Both occasions very similar, with the car in front braking and then turning left with me doing approx 25mph with what I consider to be a safe and reasonable distance between us. Had enough of this now, as this is clearly an issue for the possibility of the car being rear ended, so going to see my now ex Skoda master tech in his own garage, and ask him for advice and to see if he can go into the menu's to possibly disable it as suggested. Don't want to sell this car, as it has been absolutely brilliant in virtually every other aspect, but I'm finding this feature an absolute nightmare and great liabilty. I DON'T need or want a computer enforcing and over riding my driving style.

Tuesday morning's sunrise........

Thank you for your post. I am starting to negotiate with Skoda UK for some compensation. I think the least they can do is have the guarantee start date moved to when I picked up the car on Monday. So far, 3 days in and the car is behaving, although everytime I start it there's fear and trepidation!!

There is a calibration procedure for it I believe so there is something they can check.

I hope you have managed to negotiate a substantial compensation payment from Skoda. The depreciation in the value of your car and the obvious stress and inconvenience caused whilst it was sat in your dealership for numerous months has been undoubtedly massive. I really hope you have been successful. Thanks for starting this thread back in July as it’s been extremely helpful and informative.

its a piece of **** to inspect. top cover on left side of engine as you look at it under the bonet near the coolant reseviour, unclip a cable undo a couple of fasteners and you can see the outside and inside of the belt, flick the starter a couple of times you check it all around and your done. PS on the 2017 1.4 TSI ACT its not required to inspect until 5 years old and then its a check for wear, damage or cracking of the belt. After 7+ years and almost 70,000 miles mine look brand new, there is not even any dust collected on the inside of the cover. replacement is not based on time at all just condition and from memory the km's limit was somewhere over 200,000 km! thats from SKODA ERWIN their online maintnence manual for the CZDA engine..... the octy 1,4 from 2014 is probably a different version but check the engine code and pay for a days access to ERWIN to find out the real VW truth not the Weasal words of self enriching importers and dealer "Skoda UK recommend that....."

Yet, is the operative word, as BEV gain ground then these type of events could and will become far more common. You could be sitting in your car alongside one of these containers, just as we all do on many occasions in traffic, when the contents could decide that they are going to explode, sending shrapnel in all directions.

Pressing the button or not shouldn't make any difference, if it doesn't engage on a pawl it drops to the next. This is the whole principle behind the ratchet mechanism. In this case it appears to have skipped over all of them so I would be having a very close look at the handbrake mechanism before I trusted it again.

Sounds like there's an issue with the battery or the battery contacts if there's no red light when you press the button. Have you checked there's no protection film on the batteries and that the battery contacts are clean and actually contacting the battery? If not give them a rub and bend them out a but to make sure?

A mate of mine had a Range Rover. The BSWS on it once made a point of warning him that he was being overtaken by (or overtaking) various bits of farm machinery at a dealership he was visiting!

IIRC, the sensor is under the cup holder. I've had that before when I had the keys in the same pocket as an RFID wallet......

I toggled that setting to get my icons back to the bottom, but the functionality regarding which app is in focus has changed, to what I seem to remember being how it used to work. Used to be able to tap the app that is taking up 1/3 of the screen and change it to 2/3, toggling between them with each tap. Difficult to explain and figure out if that's how anyone else's functions/functioned

Thanks for your help Pete I think I've just found one

Sorry about the blank post.....it had a link to a video in some format that this site couldnt deal with....so I scratched it

Left hand pocket might be worth a shout, I always worry I'll leave my keys in the holder thing in the middle and be locked out the car! We're creatures of habit though aren't we (always had car keys in my left pocket)

Ooh that's good news. I also had an email today saying car had been shipped, likely heading to Grimsby. Due to Christmas break and whatever else, it's likely early to mid-January for me for delivery. Similar circumstance to you @markgto, my car has to be registered by December 31st and did all the finance paperwork a week or so ago. Exciting times though man! 🚢

I think you should plug the ports with bananas, find a movie track with many explosions and see how far you can fire the bananas across the room. A sort of 'Sub' machine gun for bendy yellow fruit

Unfortunately your photos earlier only show the socket ends of the system. The bits that could be causing the noise are hidden behind the boot liners and in and around the fuse box. A quick test to confirm whether you have a full loom or a relay type system fitted: With the trailer plugged in, ignition on, select reverse. If the full loom type fitted the mid dash screen will display a large trailer icon. With the trailer plugged in, lock the car with the fob, then unplug the trailer. If the full loom type fitted the alarm will sound. Personally I would be talking to an auto-electrician and if he can't rectify the problem have the full loom system fitted by someone who can fit that and reprogramme the car to activate the numerous systems.

Today, I've been into the 'car' menu, driver aids, and have turned off everything that was enabled apart from the nearly useless blind spot warning orange thing that lights up on the mirrors. Should know what's coming up alongside you anyway if you're concentrating. Hope this solves the problem

Thank you. I will check out your suggestion. I had not considered that the key might be programmed differently.

Open Navigation app in the infotainment system. Then… Settings: Route guidance settings: scroll down to Road signs: Speed warning. Choice of Off, Display, Display and sound.

I went from 0276 (which was almost-unbelievable garbage) to 0306. 0306 is fine but 0276 could have affected Carplay, in the way that it almost affected the law of physics. 0306 is fine but yes there is also 0308, 0324 and 0330 out there for the taking and 0332 is rumoured but no-one has found it online yet. You need 0308 as a base point so I'd get 0308 and 0330 and go to that. Download from https://mega.nz/folder/bupmCaqA#dGb8Y30eDZ3rx95kts3E_A which is a forum-member's ftp link. Just do the below one at a time - just version of software at a time - don't have them both on there just in case. Copy/unzip/extract onto a USB stick into the root folder. You'll need either USB-C stick or if you have a port in the armrest that will likely be a data port too (it is on the Superb but it's existence in the car was an option I believe so you might not have it at all). Then with the stick plugged into the car, go to the screen you show in your post and press the update software button. The MIB will reboot into Engineering Mode were everything is red font and you need to press options with a circle next to them. Usually a double tap. Let it do its thing. At one point it might randomly ask to resume at the bottom of the screen, just go ahead. When done it'll reboot back into normal mode. At which point, taker the stick out, format it, copy 0330 on and repeat. Format can be FAT32, but I think exFAT is better and perfectly fine (have used both). Let us know how you get on.

I've had this happen twice so far on my Mk3 vRS. restart of satnav (very long press of power-on button until you see restart screen) together with restart of the car (as in key out, then key in/ignition on) have cleared this problem. No errors recorded/readable in VCDS it seems.

Yup, that's correct. There is a changelog here too: https://www.aawireless.io/en/support/firmware-changelog

Please ignore last post from me. I don't know what happened.

yes, i have done these miles, the 2nd one is now on 260,000 miles...

That's the fusebox internally - try the one under the bonnet.

It enables wireless android auto on a headunit which already supports android auto. If your headunit doesn't already support android auto, it won't do anything I'm afraid...

A lot of people around the world in offices or working from home are being paid to be involved in these matters. Highly educated and trained or even Muppets. We are where we are. Stay home, and stay safe. Do not use chip pans or smoke and fall asleep.

In the nearly 50 years I've been driving I have always engaged the handbrake by pressing the release button, and only once on one vehicle had the handbrake release by itself - my previous Octavia.

No, you already have the most recent SW. Possible ONLY via external third party adapter connected to USB, e.g. CarLinkIt.

Wait, I think the topic is mixing more factors, and it would be good to split them apart. One thing is the fact that out could happen that the system, in our view, "overreacts" because of liability compromises of the manufacturer. It cannot be overriden, and it cannot be disabled or eliminated. We just need to "adapt" to it .... If someone does not want it, then must buy a different car that either A does NOT have such assist systems or B a different manufacturer with a criterion more adequate to a particular diving style. I have in my stable vehicles far less efficient in overall braking scheme than the Superb, and everything has its pluses and minuses. This said, what JR suggests above is gold - it was one of the first things I've done, remove the undertaking prevention, because even without it there is sufficient margin to drive within normal limits. Another thing was to disable "prediction speed limitation" which in my FL has removed the bothering "bend ahead" braking. True this works only with ACC/PCC on, but nevertheless... I did the same adjusting all parameters to "minimal/aggressive" and the car is not invasive in its assistance. BUT it does obviously react in some situations with pings and bong and "BRAKE" announcements ... is part of the game. Again, my older cars do not have it, matter of choice. However, regardless of who activates the braking, being the driver OR the automated braking system, for the ABS to intervene it means not only that there was excessive braking force, but also grip on the tires has reached its limit triggering the intervention. This is worth investigating separately of the above. I've had a few "excessive braking" events from the car assist systems, but never enough to trigger ABS intervention. On my own, sometimes stupid, driving and braking "unassisted", I rarely ended up triggering ABS ... most cases recently are on one of the runabout, an old Micra, with old tires. I would check how to split the problem in parts, starting by limiting its intervention as described above by JR, and then "test" to see if there is a problem elsewhere and an "oversensitive" ABS needs to be inspected.

Please don't go sticking stuff over or blocking the ACC Radar!! U can disable the "under taking prevention" using OBDEleven or VCDS. Coding below. Under taking prevention is known to b trigger happy by slamming on the brakes when a car slows down to turn left in the adjacent left lane (for LHD) or when turning right in the adjacent right lane (for RHD). Very annoying, and yes, can b dangerous if someone rear ends u. Disabling it will not cause it to slam on the brakes.

it is a tad dirty tho after that

I've had it where when using ACC it has picked up on the corner of a lorry which can be overridden with the accelerator but it does not make sense for a full blown automatic emegergency stop to be able to be overridden with the accelerator because thats the whole point of the system, to be able to react quicker than you can. Or it could be that by the the time you are pressing the accelerator the car has decided no further action was required.

drove 600 km today. mostly on the german autobahn. it was massively great fun. put everything in sport and just slam the gas. i can confirm it is limited to 250km/h. fastest i got was 256. the limiter will be the first thing that goes once warranty is gone and engine tuning will commence No errors occured and the only thing that annoyed me was the blind spot beeping when in busy traffic you need to move lanes in tight spots on to the next lane. if anyone knows if this can be turned off it would be appreciated. fuel consumption is 10.4l per 100km but that is part of the driving. another thing that really worked well was the phone charging wireless, play music and do the navigation. the cooling feature kept it nice and cold. my 9 year old loved the phone/tablet holder fixed to the back of my driver seats. perfectly fitted his samsung s9 tablet and the charging ports kept it topped up, the blanket kept him warm. He also loved the accelerarion. very many weeeeeee coming from the backseat while i put the pedal down.

just put a deposit down on skoda octavia mk4 phev se tech used to have a 2005 1.9tdi

I am asking in the octavia forum because I have a 2024 Octavia. I just forgot to change my profile.

Is it soaking up from under the carpet (is the sound deadening wet?) or dripping down on top of it? Has the windscreen been replaced? Are your door drains all clear, running free? I think I'd be checking the door seals, looking for signs of water runs, then looking under the dash and behind the glove box for similar signs if it were me. Also maybe lay upside down in the footwell while someone runs a hose over it. Gaz

A bit late but I've only recently encountered the same problem after buying my car, and this might help someone. I bought loads from Amazon (their listings don't always seem to have accurate diameters). I returned most of them but kept this one which fits perfectly. Holds a good amount of liquid and fits in the cup holder snugly.

Now sold, with thanks to Briskoda for hosting the adverts!

I also have 4 cars from VW group that has seen their share of repairs, maintenance. My 2 cents is when a car passes beyond 200'km or 160'miles, it is better to do preventive maintenance as you listed than to wait. Because from 200-250'km things start to break down. At least here in norway. So, I do all my repairs myself in own garage with ****load of tools and a big scissor lift. So, i probably saves a lot of money and time to worry if car will breal down during holiday/vacation trips. Anyway, on VAG cars, also Skoda as it is a VAG car, from 250'km I would replace the following if I bought a old car with that high mileage in addition to what you have on your list: 1. All suspensions and maybe springs as well with new nuts/bolts and dampers. They will probably fail anytime soon or has already failed but you haven't noticed it 2. Complete dmf and pilot bearing together with crank seal gearbox side. Its a guarantee fail very soon of never replaced. Maybe you have som rattling already? 3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it. 4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve. 5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more. 6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator. 7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter. 8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray) 9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km) 10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them) 11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well. 12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs. What I would't care about: Everything that has to do with appearence like styling, rims etc. On a old high mileage car, those things should come as 2nd priority. Worry about what matters 😉

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

I highly recommend Unit 18 Automotive in MK.

Wouldn't touch a main dealer with a barge pole. From selling me a crash damaged car, to claiming airbag work was done when I could literally see that the original part was still installed. Find yourself a good Indie and never look back - https://www.google.com/maps/search/Buckinghamshire+vag+specalist/@51.8379049,-1.4722038,132661m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTIwMi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Finally got the areaview calibrated fully. Was a bit of a pain but managed to do it with the mats tight to the wheels, other than that it wouldnt pick up the front corners of the mat. Now its just a job of getting rid of the black box around the centre of the car screen. This can be done with modified datasets which I now have to hunt for!

So a further update, the alarm has been going off intermittently without any cause. Checking the data on the car shows 'lost comms with module' but doesnt tell me which module. Thats great! Thought id test the battery and it had a capacity of 350Ah of 680Ah. This is after driving the car for 2 hours each day all week. Its a shame but seems like after 8 years the original battery is finally due for replacement. On top of that, when you have the parking heater system the vehicle is meant to have an AGM, not EFB battery. So the largest possible battery to fit is a 096 size, AGM type battery. I use Yuasa batteries for work all the time so a YBX9096 is the optimal battery and next was finding somewhere with one. Halfords sell the battery for £237.19 which is wildly overpriced. But they do offer price match to high street and online retailers. So after some hunting I found it for £128.50 online and went into Halfords, After no fuss at all, walked out with my battery and very proud of my receipt. Battery fitted to vehicle, and coded correctly to the new fleece type with higher capacity. Now to monitor the alarm faults.

I have more if anyone needs Octavia MK3_Maintenance_Part1.pdf Octavia MK3_Maintenance_Part2.pdf

It just makes a contact so surely it must be plug and play?

I'm sure the centre console cup holder unit can be removed from the car as it's reversible. Just take it into the shop with you to see what fits.