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After my last posting here, I did put a couple of things in the for sale site, so have been coming back regularly to see if anything was of interest to anyone, did sell one thing. Have sold a lot of items over the years but now my "Freedom membership " is now up for renewal and it's probably not worth renewing it for what's left for sale, there on eBay anyway. So it probably is GOODBYE now, and thanks BRISKODA.

I wonder if I should just replace belt kit and waterpump, now I'm this far in...?

Cabin fuse #40, 7.5 Amp rated, looks to be worth checking, judging by the first diagram I've looked at.

Merry Christmas everyone, I hope you all have a cracker of Christmas.

Might take the Fabia for a spin down to GSF in the morning, to see what they have in stock. Service book says belt was done in 2020, and that was very few miles ago, but I don't know if WP or tensioner/idler were done then: tensioner looks pretty shiny and newish I reckon.

I would if you've got the front end off anyway.

An intended area to give in certain direction in the event of collision maybe? I could see it pulling things inwards to crumple away rather than towards any impact area. Just a guess mind. Gaz

As requested, here's my Octavia, now bearing its original Kent Council registration number and associated paperwork. Progress in bringing this one back to life continues apace......

If you have TA or TJA and the cruise control is on, yes.

And you can't always get a "free" charge on a ferry, even on a long trip to the Outer Hebrides (3 to 7 hours).

Beats listening to the MIL farting on the sofa after the King's waffled I suppose 🤷

There I would disagree with you; the speed sensors are the common factors used by all your cited systems.

I had an interesting conversation with someone in Skoda UK support today. I'd asked a question using [email protected] regarding cooling upgrades for retro fitting a towbar. The first reply I got via email was very long winded about the current availability of Skoda towbars for retro fitting but didn't answer the question. I replied, attaching the parts table supplied by @JohnD5314 that related to MY 2018 cars. I asked if there was an update to that table for MY 2023 cars as the 2018 table didn't list the 2.0 TDi 85KW engine that was introduced in 2021. I was impressed to get a phone call from customer services clarifying what info I needed and asking for my reg number so they could give the correct info. I was put on hold and eventually the advisor came back to say it's not possible to retro fit a towbar on my Karoq. When I explained I already had the towbar and electrics fitted he went on to say it wasn't possible and I must be mistaken. If I'm mistaken then I'm not sure how I managed to tow my caravan to Scotland twice this summer. The saga continues.

A second clamp seems to have sorted the power steering oil leak.

it’s not so much about not running over people, it’s about who has priority, which helps maintain an orderly flow of traffic. In the past, pedestrians would wait before crossing a side road, if a car was turning into it. The car kept going, the pedestrian waited, no-one got run over. What should happen now is the car waits, the pedestrian crosses. But in reality my experience is that 99% of both car drivers and pedestrians don’t know that things have changed. If I am turning into a side road and a pedestrian wants to cross, they stop and wait. I could stop and try to encourage them to cross but often they are not paying attention beyond waiting for the car to pass - on phones, chatting, looking elsewhere. So the consequence is either a prolonged delay, or I just keep going. Pragmatically it tends to be the latter. There is a junction near our house where most cars turn off the mainer road into the side road. If I walk across the side road, 99% of drivers will object, try to run me over, sound horn etc. One time I nearly got run over by a bus - would have done if I hadn’t broken into a run. A professional bus driver really should know the rules, but this one certainly didn’t. One should bear in mind this is Aberdeen where most drivers would rather have a crash than allow someone to change lanes - and pedestrians are beneath contempt.

From experience replacing for new won't solve the boat feel. You need uprated items for that. I have a whiteline rear roll bar. I'd recommend new drop links when doing the bar. Getting it all assessed is a good shout. Just make sure you tell them your plan. Don't let them talk you into fitting OEM parts. Apart from shocks. Stock DCC should be good enough if you don't want to spend too much. There's a coding hack that changes the ride setting to a slider too. It has the benefit of making the hardest setting harder and the softest softer.

Although most UK drivers don’t seem to realise it, it is exactly the same in the Uk these days, following a change to the Highway Code a couple of years ago.

I think it must be like that when new, it looks to be perfectly symmetrical.

Some decent progress today. Got the front off into the service position. Which gives you about 50mm more clearance in front of the crank pulley, but still nothing approaching a view of it without a phone camera, from above or below! Had to take a pic to see what heads the 4 screws that hold the pulley had. Triple-square; nice. Pulley came off without difficulty, thankfully. No sign of any alignment marks on the block. The little triangle/ arrow on the sprocket is visible at about 10 o'clock in tjis shot, and the hole on the block that the locking tool uses is visible looking a bit oval, which I think is a trick of the light and shadows from photography. Got the locking tool in a after a while, and of course the crank needed to go another 360° before the '4Z' lined up correctly with the narrow slot on the cam sensor wheel. 2nd time lucky: Couldn't quite get the cam locking pin in through the cam pulley/sprocket, but I could see it was very close, although even there the visibility is rubbish! Couldn't get a photo that showed how close it was down the slot/ hole. I could get a slightly smaller diameter drill in though, so it's not far away. The tensioner looked to be a fair bit out, I think on the loose side, which may be the next thing to address, tomorrow.

I have no other ideas but that your car has wrong SW on it. It happened to me once that after anther SW update made by dealer, they put some ICE version of it on my PHEV car and I had something weird appeared, like Start-Stop on/off button, which PHEVs don't have. I would suggest speaking to another workshop/dealership to see if they can fix that and bring back PHEV related settings.

I suggest you repost in the Mk2 Octavia section. Mk1 do not have DSG gearboxes.

One of my roles in HMCE was receiver of wreck which as the Crown legally empowered for the shore etc could be quite interesting. Though I seem to be mainly dealing with dead marine life and sorting out it's disposal. The UK offshore tens of thousands of square miles are massively rich in tidal and wind which should bring down Energy prices. Sooner Energy prices are decoupled from gas the better acknowledging the UK has passed from the gas/hydrocarbon age to the renewables age. Greg Jackson for Energy Zsar.

I normally set mine to hybrid / manual on a long journey and get about 46mpg you can always switch to electric for the last bit to improve that but I don’t like the car with no battery left, it may be a perception but it seems much smoother with

Still, being based in Aberdeen you must surely be pleased with that choice? We need to be wary of listening to too much right wing journalism else this talking down of Britian can become a self forefilling prophecy and we all lose.

The price per kw could also be artificially high because they can get away with it. It will help them show potential future profits based on those prices, increase the value of the company so the venture capitalists who funded the set up can make a killing when they sell up and move on to the next money maker?

Tell me the VIN (17 character vehicle identification number) if you wish me to check for your vehicle. It will only detect level and temperature, but that is what is required.

Many of us have to travel to see our remote family ie Haverhill, Gwent, stoke, one on Xmas day so might well take a ten minute splash and dash or zap and dash i suppose. Just one glass of something inoffensive then hit the spiced rum when I get home. Low cost, no pollution. I hear more evidence of the Atlantic warming current shutting down so better look out for some proper winter tyres and wheels.

Progress has been tough... The brand new front driver side lock has failed, it was the stupid deadlock mech again... I bought another new £25 lock and took it apart, and removed the deadlock from it. Now it just works and is not going to break ever again. I will probably take apart all the doors again and remove the deadlocks from the rest of the door. Door lock taken apart, arrow points to the deadlock. Deadlock removed. It's an extremely poorly designed part, it fails on OEM locks and cheap £25 ebay ones: Deadlockless lock:

People joke about Scottish people and especially Aberdonians being tight. I might just charge at an Osprey Charger and not mess about. Christmas is the season of excess. The reason for the season.

To measure voltages you don't disconnect leads. Leave everything connected up and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. A good battery should be 12.6v. Your reading of 12.3 volts suggests to me the battery is not great. 0.01 on the 2mA range on your meter is just noise. If you have a simple circuit of a 12v battery, a switch and a lamp all connected in series (wire from battery + to switch, switch to one side of the lamp, the other side of the lamp to the battery - ) then you will measure 12v across the battery and everywhere up to the switch. Close the switch and you will get 12 volts everywhere up to the lamp. This will still be the case even if you remove the bulb. To measure current you have to break the circuit and put the meter into the circuit. If you did you would not get current flow when you opened the switch or removed the bulb. You do get meters that clamp around a cable and measure the current flow but these are usually for large currents and impractical for measuring small current flows. You cannot restore a sulphated battery. A sulfated battery has a buildup of lead sulfate crystals and is the number one cause of early battery failure in lead-acid batteries. Eventually, a battery starts to draw current internally hence the reason a fully charged battery, left overnight, even if not connected, can be discharged in the morning. It sounds like your starter and alternator are both fine. I still think both batteries are knackered.

Just my 2 pennies worth but in the specific condition described in the OP, the car in front is slowing to almost a standstill and turning into a side street. Front assist does not anticipate the behaviour of the car in front, it only looks at the information presented to it, the car in front is stopping & you are driving towards it. In the UK it's quite common to brush past the back of the car Infront when it's turning because you as the driver know it will continue to turn. In Europe a driver turning into a side street does not have right of way over a pedestrian and can often stop before entering the junction. You must think of the system with this kind of manoeuvre in mind. Also, from a manufacturer point of view, there is nothing dangerous about braking sharply in any conditions. It's the driver behind who is at fault if they hit you because they must maintain a safe stopping distance from the car in front in the event of such an emergency stop. Whilst in real life this will obviously cause problems e.g. on a motorway or busy road, the manufacturers are covered by the road regulations given to them & for them it would be more serious if they hit a pedestrian rather than someone else his the back of you.

I ordered my lease on the 15th November and asked for an update first week of December. I was told it would likely be delivered to me the second week of January as it was still awaiting transport to the UK.

Depending on the water table/soil type you could just end up with a very cold bath! I despise working in a pit and would take any form of lift over doing that.

I don't think i would bother to go out on my Christmas day to save £5

Exactly why I always got on with members like you, because you get it😂 The “Occy245” idiot who mentioned that I signed off with a greeting…..just doesn’t get it does he🙄😂😂😂 Proof, if ever any was needed, that this forum has gone to dogsh!t Sussamb, take care of yourself brother. Maybe one day when all these woke, boring idiots have long gone ill be back, until then, bonjour buddy👋😂

I don't, they all rely on data produced from that sensor so cannot function without it, the warnings are far from irrelevant, would you prefer to not know that your ABS is inoperative and to find out how frighteningly overservoed the braking system is without ABS when you skid into the obstacle that caused you to do an emergency stop?

If the lights are correctly aligned, if you are not carrying a full complement of passengers and/or towing a trailer with too much nose weight your lights will still be correctly aligned on the journey so I would not give it a second thought in your position. How often have you or any forum contributor had to use the headlamp height adjustment? I use mine but the car is frequently laden and towing, sometimes I forget and am alerted by an oncoming vehicle flashing their lights.

Assuming you have the MIB2 infotainment system (or possibly MIB2.5 if yours is a face-lift model) working from memory, if you touch the fault icon showing at the lower left of the screen, you should be able to read a brief description of the supposed cause of the fault - 'Load too high' while stop-start is unavailable is what mine flags if battery SOC is low.

The first thing to do is get the battery tested - preferably with a high-rate load test. There is usually a date stamp on the top of the battery negative terminal (the one furthest from the front) the code format is WW,YY. E.g. 0116 will be first week in 2016.

The manuals mostly are not printed these days. The punter is expected to navigate off into the bowels of a Skoda website and try to find same. Not only that but doing the same thing a month later may very well produce a different "version" of the manual.

I drove with no ABS or Traction control and skinny tyres and sometimes with more power than the car had when built but not many with 150 bhp or more. **** head lights but sometimes spot lights fitted. The exact same back roads as i drive now and not really any faster then from now. I drove like a car d!cker & crashed a few times but survived and never killed anyone.

front assist saved me from rear ending a car when driving home from the airport at 3am, via a diversion on some back roads, the car in front stopped at a mini round about to give way to nobody. I was tired and a it was a bit foggy and would have hit him without it. i can't be the only one who likes having it?

Why? Do you turn lane assist off as well? TA is simply ACC + Lane Assist that remain active at lower speeds than they otherwise would (ie. down to 0 mph to follow traffic in start/stop traffic). It doesn’t do anything that the two systems do by themselves in free flowing traffic. I always activate it whenever I put the cruise control on… in fact, I quite often just press the TA button on the steering wheel when I get to the speed I want rather than going anywhere near the cruise control stalk.

You will not get a new one for £24k. Year or two back was a shortage of components and big production backlog, sales of iv versions were suspended for months, so finding one that you like might be hard work. From memory Octavia sales were suspended for much longer. Without knowing your mileage, or type of usage (short town journeys, big hauls fully loaded etc), you have to decide if paying the few thousand pounds extra for an iv over the tsi version makes sense. Unless you do lots of short journeys on charge at home electric then probably cutting fuel bill from around £150 for every 1000 miles in a tsi to about £110 per thousand miles in an iv. Let's say £1000 every 20-25k miles. So if need to pay a £5k premium for iv then only really going to save if do over 100k miles. Of course if you are replacing a 2014 version, then have to assume keep car for 10 years, and to be honest some of the latest models to euro6e emissions spec have new equipment that no one knows how long they will last trouble free in real world. Generally more gadgets that are fitted equals more bits that can potentially fail and need expensive repair. All worth considering.

Untrue and scaremongering, yes making the changes to the coding will be beneficial but the battery will charge and in time the Battery Management System would recognise the new battery characteristics and adapt accordingly anyway. Did you mean to right "won't charge correctly"?

Well I think that's it, most of the big things I had for sale have now been sold anything left is now on ebay. Thanks to Colin for a brilliant site, might pop back every now and then, but regrettably it's thank you and GOODBYE. 😎👍👍

Hi C, yes I suppose I have. When you looked at all the parts in the car with VW stamped on them. I did like the Yeti and was disappointed it came out just after I got the Roomster but soon got over it as the boot was no contest over the Roomster.

Hi all, So recently I've been having some trouble with my rear wiper washer jet, when I first got the car (second hand) it could spray water just fine but recently it's only dribbled out until it finally got blocked up (despite taking it to be checked during its MOT where they said it was fine, and once again when it was finally blocked). The dealer said it was a result of some corrosion and might not be covered under warranty and that I had to wait for a reply from Skoda... 🙄 I asked for photos but they couldn't give any, saying that there was a blockage somewhere in the rear wiper motor unit after testing and attempting to clear the blockage (or at least that was the gist of it). I wasn't really happy with their service, the technian left clips unclipped, one was bent, a plastic tab with a clip had completely come off the backing from the trim and one of the rubber seals wasn't properly refitted and sealed. Suprisingly there was a recent post on here on another hatch experiencing the same issues, so it seems like this is not an uncommon issue but now I've had my hand at it and sorted it out. 😁 There are a few things you'll need to have and check: 1. The two washer pumps work - when you push or pull the washer stalk you should be able to hear two different motors working away. 2. That the washer pipe hasn't burst/split - if it has you'd probably have noticed some wet patches somewhere in the car or at least heard water being jettisoned. 2a. Likewise you should check to see if the blockage isn't in the pipe, but this fix only focuses on the end of the pipe. 3. The rear wiper motor works. 4. The rear washer jet nozzle hasn't been blocked - this would be easiest way to clear the blockage, just lift the cap and pull the nozzle off. You can easily wash or clear it with a needle pin, brush or with a water flosser. A few tools you'll need: You'll need a trim removal bar, something plastic that can help give you leverage while removing the rear clips. A long toothpick and some palstic trimmer line - the bottom washer hole is about 15mm wide whereas the top one is a lot thinner, a bit larger than a toothpick. A fine needle pin for the jet nozzle A water flosser - you could use a pressure washer but I think you'll have trouble directing and controlling the water into such a small pipe. Towels, a bucket and maybe a second pair of hands. Once you've checked and gathered all that, I have a good suspicion that the blockage is in the same place where I had mine. The blockage appears in the right angle part washer pipe of the rear wiper motor. Firstly you'll need to remove the entire rear door trim (video guide here) - start with the interior hatch button from the sides, it'll fall out and this is where you'll need to push the clip in at the top of the connector to remove it. It's a good idea to turn off the interior lights and be aware of where the exterior rear door latch button is just in case you activate the automatic lift by pushing up or down on it. Next remove the two rubber stops by simply unscrewing them. Now this is the hard part, trying to remove the trim from the clips. I'd start near the latch and work where it's loose. You'll also need to remove the first three clips of the side pillars, the best way to remove them is to grab the edge, pull them down and inwards until the clips come loose. You don't have to remove them all, maybe two or three clips so that you can remove the rear trim. So now that you have the whole trim off you have the rear wiper motor exposed and now you'll need to locate the washer pipe (the ribbed pipe lined below). To remove it, you'll need to twist the white locking piece. Remember the the way it goes on, it should lock into place and that the black rubber ring is still inside the pipe. If you have a pipe cleaner you can clean the immediate area of the pipe or you can even try and use the washer jet, just make sure you have a bucket (though it'll only work if the car thinks that the rear hatch is down). Make sure you reconnect this properly, if you don't put this securely back on the pipe could come loose and spray inside the boot. With that done you'll now have access to the blocked area. I would also remove the plastic nozzle jet on top too, just lift the cap and wriggle the nozzle jet free. You can use a needle pin or a water flosser to clear it. Now back on the underside, you can now use the plastic trimmer wire, toothpick and water flosser to probe and clear out the blockage. Here you can see just how dirty the toothpick got. I didn't get a chance to take photos but the trimmer and water flosser had gotten some debris up and out - I also found a single red strand of thread clogged up in there. Do the same on the top and clear the shaft, just make sure you have a towel or bucket underneath to catch the water coming out. Now that you're done test the washer function out. I tried the rear washer and I was amazed at the pressure that was coming out, It was way more powerful than the first time I had gotten the car all those years ago, it's like a proper jet wash. Of course, with some slight adjustments to the nozzle jet I was able to get a much more sensible spray that won't strike cyclists, pedestrians or other cars. 😜 Now that you've cleared the blockage, make sure you wipe down and dry all parts that might've gotten wet on the inside of the trim, especially near any connectors and then do everything in reverse. Just be aware of the rear elements cable when reattaching the trim, you really don't want to snag this and break it off. I would highly recommend starting here. Hopefully this'll help as a guide for those who might have this same issue (and save you from buying a rear wiper motor unit).