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In 2023, the United Kingdom became the world’s first major economy to halve its emissions relative to 1990 levels. UK cars on the road 1995 21,394,103 2023 there were 41.2 million licensed vehicles in the UK

Gents, she’s here…and she’s beautiful! 😍 say hello to ‘Myra’ 🤣

When EV "Fuel Duty" is applied, and make no mistake it will be at some point in the future, perhaps the penny will drop.

How it looks, chiselled, stylish and well proportioned. Something you can't say about the new Superb. The fact that you will never run out of space, I've had a full-size bath tub in the car, in fact I can't think of anything that I haven't been able to fit it. The reliability and low running costs. Nothing major has failed and anything that has, has been cheap to replace. Small things like the design of the door handles and the feeling and sound of opening and closing the door. Crucial touch points are spot-on. The faultless ergonomics. I'm looking at EV's and while the screens are seductive the ergonomics are shambolic by comparison. The good visibility. Generous glazing and no blindspots make a parking easy despite the size. The overall economy, refinement and performance of the 1.4 TSI engine. The generous storage space inside the car for all your heart and ends. And the fact that those storage areas have covers unlike some modern cars where there is just a big bin in the centre console so you have to look at your mess! Small things, such as it be easy to change lightbulbs. Most cars this can be a nightmare but in the Skoda it is the job of a few minutes with easy access. There are plenty more but all of the above worries me that any replacement will fall short of the standards set by this really excellent car. A BMW F10 520D preceded the Superb I prefer the Skoda in almost every way.

Happy new year! Had to find some shade and beat the sun to get Rusty washed as it has been too hot. Also a guy in the UK sent me a customised Hot Wheels version of Rusty!

The majority of the fuel efficiency development was in the 70s -80s due to the fuel crisis, the last thirty years has seen most of research and development being focused on emissions which has been significantly improved.

Shut down the fossil fuel industry tomorrow and the answer to your question will be obvious the following day.🤔

Zapmap year end analysis for 2024 showing excellent growth in charging infrastructure. Link to full article https://www.zap-map.com/news/2024-ev-charging-statistics-reveal-record-rate-charge-point-installations?utm_source=Zapmap+Registered+Users&utm_campaign=5efa9d9a55-ZM_NL_9th_JAN_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_abd3a980ed-5efa9d9a55-120624525

On our annual journeys from the UK to Lithuania to visit SWMBO's family and friends, we have taken a folding bed for SWMBO to stay with her father when she visits him alone, a computer chair for her father and a 6' Christmas tree for her nephew. Not all together, of course, but they were in addition to our luggage for 3 weeks away and a cold box in the boot plugged into the socket. There's not many cars that would swallow so much without any problems.

Have to say... I much prefer that new front end...

That’s the coasting function for saving fuel. It’s normal.

I've upgraded my PHEV to 1985 and it's continued to work as expected. Can manually switch between all elec or hybrid and set battery recuperation level

Thinking “ out of the box”: warning only appears after 17 miles : maybe when tyres and pressures have “ warmed up”? Warning suggests ( at least) one tyre circumference is relatively / detectably different - only after about 17 miles- than the others. is it possible there is something “simple” but different about one of the tyres with respect to warming up / pressure / circumference change? For example: - is one Nitrogen filled- others air filled? - are they all same type/pattern/ load rating? - is one brake binding, so warming up that disc-hub- wheel more than the others? there may be other possibilities but the fact it doesnt show up until after a good few miles suggests that warm tyre pressures are a factor rather than cold tyre pressures? what happens if you reset when warm after 17 miles - does it stay off when cold the next day? OR, as J.R. says above ( while I was typing) - a faulty ABS wheel sensor? But strange it takes so many miles to detect

TVS do a deal for an engine remap with the gearbox one as well…but make sure you have a good chat with them about which car you have. Even knowing it’s a 2021 car they could only come up with 272 version DNUA engine (EA888 Gen 3) rather than my DNFE 280 Gen 4 engine.

A typical coaler only takes many hours from flat cold, They were all designed to base load and run all the time which they did for much of their lives In my time at Eggborough from 2005-2018 the market had changed and as such they used to ‘2-shift’ so they came on in the morning and off in the evening leaving them hot pretty much all the time ready to load up in 85 minutes IIRC. Remember these plants and CCGTs are not standby plants and are mostly running on planned runs anyway. A CCGT can create some load at very short notice but it too has a steam turbine to warm though albeit a much smaller one. Our new plant has lots of electrical heating on the steam chests though and that can come up in load ridiculously fast.

If electricity was a sensible price you wouldn't have to have batteries, it's a solution to a problem we have created.

Makes you wonder why EV's aren't flying off of the shelves.🤔

SOLVED!! I've recently encountered the same issue, quite frankly it was driving me mad and couldn’t figure it out through any of the settings. Resolution; turns out the solution is in the Nav Screen options. Select nav on the entertainment home screen, on the map view select the 3 dots in bottom left corner as per below image… Then change the setting to auto (mine was somehow on “day” setting. Dash/instrument cluster will now change with auto lights sensor.

The i20 was 12-months old when I obtained it, had covered only 700 miles and was an impulse buy - I had planned to purchase a brand-new Hyundai i20N, but that model was in very short supply in the UK at that time with unknown delivery dates. The plastic and fabric materials used in the i20's interior were decidedly not 'classy' and, despite jacking up the rear of the driver's seat-rails by 25mm, I still didn't care for the driving position, nor the seat itself., nor the 'feel' of the steering. As the car's 48V battery was housed in the spare-wheel well, there was no room there for even a space-saver wheel. I bought a secondhand full-size wheel/tyre, but that would not fit in the boot and I used to carry it upright behind the passenger seat. I just didn't get much pleasure driving the i20, but what convinced me to get rid of it was my wife breaking her hip and it becoming obvious that, after the hip-replacement operation, she would have great difficulty getting in and out of the i20 that had no seat-height adjustment of the passenger seat. I chose a Fabia because a) we had owned a Skoda Roomster since 2009 and been pleased with it, b) there is a Skoda dealership 10 miles from where I live, c) they had a new silver Fabia SE L DSG in their showroom and d) the seating is much more comfortable and adjustable than the i20's and the interior much less cheap-looking. I'd found driving the i20 irritating on rural roads as its 6-speed transmission was essentially a five-speed set of lower ratios with an 'overdrive' top gear. The Fabia is the first car I've actually owned with an automatic transmission and (at age-80) I'm now happy to let the DSG 'box do the gear selection for me. There was nothing intrinsically wrong with the i20 and, having traded it in for the Fabia, it sold to a new owner within a fortnight.

Helloooo Myra 🤩 she's a beaut!

Probably - I don't really know but it's more than likely I would have thought. Tax breaks are hardly unique to the fossil fuel industry, most businesses take advantage of them in some way. The industry would definitely exist if there was no such thing as tax.

On my prefl it was the projectors themselves causing the poor light output. The reflector inside had burned out. Even LED bulbs didn't help. Had to swap out my headlights. On fl cars if I remember correctly, the projector itself can be changed as it fits through the back

Tax breaks are not subsidies. My original point was around if there was no such thing as tax.

Wet Clutch DSG,s do have the same oil in the box and MCU unlike the DQ200,s with 2 oils. As to earlier DQ381 failures, there are plenty very new and low mile / km ones with MCU failures. It very much is a lottery. Just a lottery with nobody overseeing VW Group. Maybe the Lemon Law in Australia is what will have them admitting fundamental design, manufacturing or material faults and even the failure rate Globally or by factory manufacturing components

Depends on the EV. For MEB cars from VAG the default is to coast when lifting off. Intelligent Drive (VW name but Skoda has equivalent) will regen brake for corners / approaching vehicles / etc unless the driver intervenes. B-mode gives up to full regen braking when lifting off and this can be modulated using the accelerator. Some models have paddles to vary the regen level. VW models do not have regen paddles. AFAIK Tesla are the opposite and regen brake as you lift off. I cannot speak for others.

The november version of the manual does mention the remote parking: https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/c37521ce1d3aa9bd7ea8205e67439d8e_2_en_GB?query=remote

If you mean the fold out picnic table things , I have those on my current SEL, but from what I can see the sportline has never had those in recent times anyway

My car is coming up to 10 years old. I'm also a big fan of a nice quiet, refined ride and even though my petrol superb is very smooth the few EV's I've driven are in a different league. Effortless instant torque is also very appealing. We have solar panels so daily running costs will be a lot lower. Kids are also growing up and I am doing mostly short journeys and no longer have need for such a big car, no I know at times that will be greatly missed.

Thank you very much. It has been sorted already. I connected it to empty slot for righ headlight (slot no. 36) and for permanent power I used KESSY system (no. 19). It is working fine now. Thanks for suggestion anyway.

I am not worried, i use a Smart Phone, Internet Banking, Store Reward cards and my life is lived online. My location on Sat Nav / GPS and Contacts list are available even when my Smart Phone is turned off. These hacking concerns are exactly the issues with the VW Group in Germany. There appear to be the ones to worry about more than even Chinese Manufacturers. Tesla knows everything about the cars travel. I have a pal that used to clock cars for Taxi Drivers and others. Started that 50 years ago. Now he makes EV,s invisible as far as over the air stuff. As Organised Crime / Drug Dealer and Car Hire / Taxi EV users might want.

I'd be concerned about the security and hacking risks if it's true that a non-contact system can communicate with a cars systems to extract that sort of data. Black hat hackers are very often one step ahead of the white hat guys Fiat Chrysler recalls 1.4m vehicles

Thanks for the heads' up! I will keep in mind when the time comes 😉

Just to put in good word for ACC, previously I've had cars with just normal CC and my Karoq is the first with ACC and I wouldn't now buy any car without it. Sure, it only recognises the car immediately in front + traffic in the iadjacent right hand lane, but I find it overall makes it easier for me to think about traffic further ahead and behind and I now anticipate and take corrective action more than I used to, leading to a smoother driving experience. I also feel more relaxed at the end of a long journey. Maybe it just suits my particular driving style, but I used to find normal CC frustrating when not being able to maintain a constant speed in busy motorway traffic situations, with all that annoying brake and throttle footwork + having to switch CC on again. I admit ACC's not perfect, being slow to recognise a vehicle that suddenly cuts you up in front & too slow to let loose a vehicle in front when you pull out to overtake - so I pull out earlier wherever possible, which is safer anyway. Overall ACC is a substantial upgrade over CC as far as I'm concerned, but clearly doesn't suit everyone.

Definitely - even simple things like resetting the TPMS after correcting tyre pressures use the infotainment (or a scan tool).

These post make me so very glad that in the warm and dry climate of Spain (which means ZERO corrosion) then barring a major accident or other total catastrophe for me the question of what to replace my Yeti with simply does not arise. Even if it did there are plenty of similar excellent condition cars available on the market here so it could readily be replaced if it came to it. With 130k km (80k miles) on the clock, and nowadays only clocking up around 10k km pa (6k miles), there is no reason to not expect it to go on for another 13 years which, with me currently at at age 74 and 'er indoors not far behind, could mean us reaching the end of our driving careers before the car reaches the end of it's useful life! The simplicity of the base 'Active' variant makes problems with complex, and frequently worthless, features and accessories something else not to worry about.

@Ootohere - with a spare tyre on, even after resetting the TPMS, the car still knows u have a spare tyre on because of the difference in rotational speed, and hence it disables the ACC. Reason for this is because ACC automatically applies the brakes to manage the speed, and since the ABS sensor knows about the spare tyre - it can't "safely" regulate the stopping power for ACC. I've personally experienced this with my Superb, when I had the spare tyre on - it would not allow me to use ACC until a full-size tyre was back on. The 02-Trans module reports the following warning:- 10657 - RPM Signal from ECU 03-ABS module reports the following 16401 - Tire Pressure Warning @JK7 - Rear shocks will not impact the TPMS. So don't fall for that one. The mk3 Superb uses the ABS sensors to determine each wheel's rotational speed - this is then used by the TPMS system to determine if a wheel is over or under inflated. If the difference (between the 4 tyres) works out to b equivalent to 4 psi more or less, then the warning will show up. U say u changed 3 out of 4 tyres - even though they're all the same brand and type, and inflated to the same pressure, the older one is more worn-out than the 3 newer tyres, and hence will always rotate at a different speed However this should not b enough to trigger the TPMS. Given u've reset the TPMS, and the warning shows up after a bit of driving, there is something more sinister happening for u. As mentioned above, the ABS sensor could b a likely suspect. Other possibilities could b the wheel hub, or the brakes binding. Either way, not a straightforward resolution for u - sorry.

I'm 40 miles north of Aberdeen. As previously stated I have two sets of wheels. Personally I think all season tyres are a compromise, not the best in summer as they want to be winters, and not the best in winter as they want to be summers. My winter wheels are the standard 18" alloys on the car from the factory with vredestien winter extreme tyres in the factory 215/50×18 size. My summer wheels are a set of vw scirocco 18 inch wheels which are 1 inch wider than standard and much nicer wheels shod with 2 Michelin primacy tyres due replacing and two kormoran summer suv tyres and the sizes are 235/50x18. For me this works well, changed the wheels in November and will change back in spring. I will probably buy 2 new kormoran soon so I have a full set the same for summer. As far as I know kormoran are owned and made by Michelin but are a much more affordable tyre. The two I have were on the rear of my previous yeti, and been on the rear of the karoq and have done nearly 30,000 miles between the two cars and have no perishing, cracking and still have 6mm tread. I wouldn't use steelies on a nice car, if you look on Gumtree, Ebay or even marketplace you will seeloads of decent 17or 18 inch alloys with winters on much cheaper than you will get wheels and tyres from skoda. Anything that says vw, Audi,seat, skoda 5 x 112 and 17 or 18 will fit straight on to your Karoq. Your car will still look nice with decent wheels not rusty steelies which new skoda wheels will be after a couple years up here

If you are in Aberdeen, then buy a set of rims and get winter tyres, fit them late October, and switch back to the summer set in April Here is brochure of the rims (with tyre sizes) and pictures, and part numbers so you can order them through a spares Dept https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 In UK it is normally cheaper to order tyres separately (use internet search for good prices), but Skoda also sell complete wheels (rims fitted with tyres) https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/c829936c-f0c1-48a3-bd99-55a507038e8c

The same happened to me two weeks ago. 12v, rear wiper and fans all went. After many checks at the garage, they found the fault was the ignition switch, this was replaced. Three hours of labour, the total cost was £402 at a local garage. Though I did purchase a Karcher window cleaner as it was very difficult to drive in the winter without the fans working. Add an extra £60 for a new window cleaner. Skoda Citigo 2015 90K Miles - No AC, no central locking & no electric windows. Basic.

First clue that the battery is low. The stop start wont work if the battery is poor / low. Thanks. AG Falco

Indeed - surely there should be either a big red 'Emergency Stop' button in / on the car, or a means for the 'control centre' to stop the car in an emergency

There is a CAR menu that shows messages and allows you to change many settings (details are in the manual), any head unit not specificly designed for an Octavia 3 won't have this menu and as the infotainment is the only way of setting/checking them (Apart form a diagnostic tool) it's not wise to fit a head unit without this menu.

Could also be a wiring problem in the driver's door where the loom passes through the door hinge area. It can be repaired or you can replace the full loom. Lots of YouTube videos on it. Common problem in VAG cars of the era.

I've always been on 5w-30 since the car was bought new. I don't know why I accidentally wrote "40".....

Then if you add in the lost 53p a litre fuel duty which the Government is missing out on, but they will soon be finding ways of clawing that lost revenue back, suddenly unless you can be certain to do most of your charging at home (on cheap rates), then suddenly it becomes way more expensive to run.

Short Update... I managed to source a glowplug while I was back in the UK for Xmas for £12 incl postage. B&B Components – B&B Components if anyone is interested... They have an eBay & Amazon store front also. I went for the Bosch (GLP194 Duratherm)... Fitting went smoothly & actually the difficult part was popping off the electrical connector. Luckily cylinder 4 is the easiest to access & it came off after being a bit more brave & hard tugging with a pair of pliers. The glowplug itself came out with around 20Nm and a short "crack" on a hot engine. The thread itself & shaft were completely clean which I assume helps. New one greased & installed with 13Nm torque. DTCs cleared & MIL light is now gone & no more fault codes... Will keep an eye on it for a few weeks but I am quite pleased with the outcome.... £25 for glowplug & a big tube of ceramic grease as apposed to 60CHF (~£55) just for the part from Skoda.... I'd guess the fitting would be hundreds. A real Happy start to the New Year for me, Gabbo I found this video also quite useful: (Note: the plugs are exactly the same size although the new one looks a lot bigger in the photo)

CJX is EA888 Gen 3. DNU & DNF are EA888 Gen 4. Both DNU & DNF have no MPI (multi point injection) Both of them pair with 7sp DQ381 DSG, and have GPF. While CJX, has both direct injection and mpi, pairs with 6sp DQ250 DSG, and works without GPF.

Cool, so what I would do now is go round and write down all the pressures Then in 2 days do it again and see if they are all the same, just to rule out there being a slow leak. I had this last year when I had my tyres change and it kept leaking by the valve after I tested it with a soapy spray and been fine since they resealed it. If all pressures fine and remain fine then can rule out tyres Next possible thing is them perhaps disturbing something electrical when changing tyres so check there’s nothing too obvious but I’d have thought you’d have more errors but worth checking fronts at least. I have had fun and games getting it synced, I believe I reset tpms with the engine off, then turned on car and reset tpms again then it was alright

Problem solved...........with a simple usbc to usb a adapter from amazon - cost £5 for 2 !! Works fine - very very strange. But at least it's solved.