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A few from today and last night (including a handily placed litter bin 👍)............

Heated front screen with the associated heated washer jets.....absolutely awesome, and as a real safety feature, should be standard on ALL cars IMHO. First time I've used them in 'anger', and didn't disappoint.🥰

We're all Skoda brothers and sisters. Worse things in life than this sort of thing - let's try and focus on getting the lights sorted chaps 👍

I managed to get the alternator out of a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V 86PS that had AC, maybe I ended up turning it on its end, I found the worst or trickiest bit was easing back the spacers that is in the alternator body. When the alternator failed in that car, I had just started it up and was driving out of the estate onto the main road when the warning light came on - turned round and grabbed my own car and dealt with that one much later. At that time, maybe 2013, I could not source locally any spare parts like a regulator/brushes assembly, it was a Bosch alternator "made in Spain" and the regulator was "made in UK" . I found that ECP sold 2 versions, the one for that car was quite expensive, the much cheaper alternative which I worked out had the same output voltage and max current had a slightly smaller drive pulley, ie so the actual alternator was the same model so I cheap skated and bought that, it was a Bosch factory refurbished VW Group one, so I swopped over the drive pulleys - fitted it and all was well.

Your mechanic is a decent man so definately a keeper. He is right when it comes to costs for one who has to do pay others to fix car. Owning an old car 250 000+km, means that one should do everything in home garage as a hobby or buy a new car when either dsg, bevelbox, dpf, dmf, injectors, 4x shock absorbers fail. Its just way too expensive on a old 250-300'km car. Dsg dmf will fail, when is the question. You will likely hear sounds of a failing dmf. Typical around 150-250'km. This is 3k euro in norway at dealership. Dpf will also fail, depends on the user. I reckon mine will fail within the next 100 000km. My car now has 230 000km. Probably 2k euro for a factory new one. When time comes I will probably just buy a used one for 100-150 gbp and install myself. Injectors, well, probably need fixing. But not so sure that these will fail yet. Again, depends on driving style and conditions. Preventive maintenance to keep a car running is a waste of money if you must let dealership do it. Preventive maintenance is just for all those who has the tools, computers and knowledge to do it in their home garage with access to a car lifter.

Mine has arrived! Picked it up this morning. A couple of photos. I’ll post further when I get the chance to put a few more miles on the clock.

Like I said, you can have them.

How it looks, chiselled, stylish and well proportioned. Something you can't say about the new Superb. The fact that you will never run out of space, I've had a full-size bath tub in the car, in fact I can't think of anything that I haven't been able to fit it. The reliability and low running costs. Nothing major has failed and anything that has, has been cheap to replace. Small things like the design of the door handles and the feeling and sound of opening and closing the door. Crucial touch points are spot-on. The faultless ergonomics. I'm looking at EV's and while the screens are seductive the ergonomics are shambolic by comparison. The good visibility. Generous glazing and no blindspots make a parking easy despite the size. The overall economy, refinement and performance of the 1.4 TSI engine. The generous storage space inside the car for all your heart and ends. And the fact that those storage areas have covers unlike some modern cars where there is just a big bin in the centre console so you have to look at your mess! Small things, such as it be easy to change lightbulbs. Most cars this can be a nightmare but in the Skoda it is the job of a few minutes with easy access. There are plenty more but all of the above worries me that any replacement will fall short of the standards set by this really excellent car. A BMW F10 520D preceded the Superb I prefer the Skoda in almost every way.

Technical data The below information is an extract from the Superb MK3 owner's manual. As you can see there are only two tyre and rim combinations shown. Superb MK3 Permitted rim/tyre combinations for mounting of snow chains: Rim size Tyre size 6,5Jx16 ET41 215/60 R16 6,5Jx17 ET41 215/55 R17 Only fit snow chains with links and locks that are no larger than 13 mm.

hey i need a gmail email to share files via googledrive, what age is your car?

The right circle in the display behind the steering wheel shows either red (hang up) or green (answer) phone logo. You can scroll between red and green with the right scroll wheel. Pressing it will execute the action. Can't be much more intuitive if I'm honest.

You can, with the right scroll wheel.

Mildly terrifying, but actually went pretty smooth with my planned method. Got the Mrs to slowly unscrew the chain on the engine hanger while I was underneath (to one side) with a lever gently nudging it in the right directions, with a jack to help in places and hold it up while I adjusted the chain and reset the thread for more distance. Flywheel replacement tomorrow! Not sure how to approach getting it back in just yet. Might have to marry someone stronger.

I have a BKD on 110 000 miles. Had the turbo replaced at 30k Miles under warranty thank god at main dealers. That was 2009 and cost £1200! What mpg are you getting? Actual via filled tank etc not the onboard display which is vastly over optimistic. I get from 39 mostly urban to 63 on long M-way journeys. Which I think shows a fairly healthy engine.

Turning off the start-stop system does not get rid of this cutting out. Nor does the cutting-out happen only at low speed. However, I agree with Ootohere on one point: cutting-out can be avoided by keeping the revs up. But as it cuts out when one foot is on the clutch and the other often on the brake approaching a junction, keeping the revs up requires toeing and heeling. OK for me but not for my wife who is the main driver. Skoda documentation says that the start-stop system on a manual Karoq will operate when the car is stopped, the gear lever is in neutral, and the clutch pedal is released. But the engine cut-out that I and others experience meets none of these three conditions. It can happen when the car is moving, the car is not in neutral, and the clutch pedal is pressed down, not released. Therefore the cutting-out is not caused by the correct operation of the start-stop system as described by Skoda, though it might possibly be a malfunction related to that system. Ours is a manual car (2023 1.5 TSi Sportline). As coasting mode is provided only on the DSG, this is not a instance of coasting mode operation in my case. Some people have said that when the engine cuts out they can re-start it by dipping the clutch. That is not my experience, for the simple reason that it cuts out when the clutch is already dipped. As an aside, when I have reported this to a Skoda dealer (who of course said they were unaware of a problem) I have taken care to call it cutting out and avoid the word stalling, for two reasons: as soon as you say stalling they will dismiss it as driver error; and more fundamentally, a driver stalls a car when they raise the clutch pedal, not when they press it down, which is what happens to us. Our car never did this for the first 18 months of its life. Then it happened with increasing frequency over a couple of months in the later part of last year. Again that suggests a developing fault, not normal operation. It happens to both me and my wife. Our driving styles are very different, so driving style is not likely to be the cause either. There is an extensive thread on this from T-Roc owners, linked from page 1 of this thread. Thinking about this, it seemed likely that for whatever reason, the engine management system was allowing revs to drop too low. I first tried to resolve the problem by switching to Sport driving mode which is available on our Sportline. This alters the throttle mapping. Pinkpanther on this thread tried something similar by altering throttle mapping using Carista. For us, Sport mode helped. Cutting out became much less frequent but was not totally eliminated. My next guess was that one of the sensors that feeds data to the engine management system, or some other component related to idle speed (the idle control valve, as a total guess) had started to get sooted up after 18 months of use. My wife and I usually drive the car very gently. It was time to see if hard use would help by clearing something out. Over half an hour or so I worked the engine as hard as possible, so the indicated power output showed 110kW, the engine oil temperature reached 110 degrees, and the revs were at 5000 whenever possible. That was nearly three weeks ago and the cutting-out has not happened since, either in Sport or in Normal mode. Before that, it was happening every day or two. For now, things are much improved. Of course, the problem might re-appear tomorrow. We’ll see.

First question is whether you have an Amundsen or Columbus sat nav? Amundsen needs an SD card inserted all the time for the maps. The problem is that the maps by default use a TMC transmission that's no longer active, but there are hacks to switch to the one still being transmitted - there is a thread about this on briskoda. Alternatively the newer system, which on a 2019 model will probably include yours, can get traffic information using the SIM.

Hi yeah I’ve 2 cars. Still have superb but wife has the Fabia. She hit the deer. I’m not fussed about how difficult it is to calibrate as I’m not needing it to be as accurate as I’d need for ACC. trying to work out the part I need to order to cover the sensor again before I straighten it and calibrate it again.

Hmm, can’t work out your badge if it’s black or not, if it isn’t then you could do. These badges are black but with the background of your paint colour, looks good on white cars https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-front https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-rear and rear superb wording in black https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/genuine-skoda-autoas-rear-emblem-superb-sportline-black-version Then I would change wind mirrors to be black BUT!! You will need to declare these mods including alloys to your insurance company, I had a hell of a time trying to explain to my insurance company about my want in changing the wing mirror covers to a different colour (business grey to hyper green) and I gave up on the end as they seemed thick as hell (probably need to revisit) So might be worth ringing them up and see if they will continue to insure you or how much your insurance premiums will go up. You could always just do it but run the risk of the insurance thieves seeing it as an easy way out should the worst happen, up to you ultimately

New battery requires to be adapted (coded) into vehicles BCM if you have automatic idle stop (Stop/Start) and if ANY details of its specification are different to original battery. Coding is also advisable to inform vehicles BCM that battery has been replaced so that any recorded battery defects, that may be limiting charging rate, are deleted.

I was lucky it hasnt come back... yet!!

Well, firstly, it wasn't warmer - but it was light (Foggy, but light!) Secondly, what a pain in the arse to get to the fuse box - getting the glove box lid down is a pain - moving the the two retaining clips at the top is bloody hard - and then pulling the fuse box cover off - need fingers like a rock climber! And you probably can leave the glove box in place too! But yes, pulling fuse 19 and waiting a few minutes and replacing it sorted it out. See how long it stays active! To be fair, it only has to last until April as it's going back.

A good tip when it comes to skoda DSG. The wetclutch version aka dq250/381 is a keeper. They hold up as long as it is serviced accordingly to specs. Better cooling and withstands tear and wear better than the dq200 dryclutch (most gasonline has dq200 from that age). Also, in order to avoid unneccesary tear and wear on the dmf, use manual shifting when in city with queues. Repeatedly start, stop, slow driving will make the dsg shift often from 1st to 2nd and 3rd gear. That will rapidly wear down the dmf on a dsg. I always use manual in city when I assess that now, it will be lots of crawling. Put it in 1st and let it be there during crawling. It is no problem to use it in 2nd even in high revs up to 2500-3000 if it is for short time, just to avoid it shifting to 3rd when you see that you need to stop again after 20meters... just a tip. I do believe that this is the main reason your mechanic has a lot of his earnings from dsg dmf failures 😆

How did that plan work out for you? 🥶😄

Yes, unfortunately thats it. I do help friends and colleagues from time to time. But my payment is easy; I learn a new car and they supply me with different service parts I use on my own cars (oil, filters, coolant and other small parts needed). So, find a friend who has a garage to do it in and buy him a 20ltr can of oil as payment 🙂 I am not sure if a gasoline is much cheaper in the long run. Yes, no dpf or egr, but that has more to do with driving style and use. All those who mostly do short trips and city driving should never drive diesel. Electric or gasoline is the preferred option. Diesel cars is basically for those who commute daily more that 40-60min on the highway above 60mph or use it for long distance driving with load imho. But, no rule without exception. We see the same in Norway, there are thousands of diesel cars due to popularity, that now has problems because they have been used as a city daily driver. Those with cars used on the countryside will generally hold up much longer, and by that I mean really much longer. A diesel city car will have problems already before 100'km, and a countrysidecar can last for like 250 000 without egr, dpf, dsg/dmf problems. So, I buy all my cars from preferrably countryside use up north. They dont rust as much due to lack of salted roads and they are not used for short trip/city driving.

Ahh thanks bud, no harm in whipping it off and having a look, especially when it’s so easy to get to!

You don’t get the same interactions on Facebook, it’s what I miss about the old school forums back in the day (Christ I’m only 32 and I sound like my Dad 🤣) the lumbar support doesn’t seem to work on the drivers side, but it does on the passenger one. If I give it a boot full in 3rd/4th on a dual carriageway it’ll lose boost, but on the motorway in 5th it loses boost pretty much as soon as you hit 70. Definitely going to see whether the old Italian tune up makes a difference. I don’t know how long the Eveymod was fitted for or how often it was used, but it was wound right up the first time I went to view it and it wouldn’t run for more than 30 seconds before cutting out.. definitely feels like I saved it from an early death

As I said each to his own and while I would never own a Duster I also think the Puma's scores are awful albeit not quite as bad as the Duster and I wouldn't own one of them either. Shame on Ford, all that might and engineering prowess and they cant build a car with a front score of better than 75%, just my own thoughts and opinions. 🙂

It's a well known 'impact' of not fitting the NCAP point scoring electronic driver aids that most people switch off when they get in the car, rather than the structural strength of the car. I'd consider one.

the bkd turbos from stock go around 120,000 miles, the siren is the turbos last cries, replace the turbo whilst you have a choice. I have the exact car and i waited to find it, but i was duped the car had blag MOT's and the underneath is getting redone, i thought i had time, but turbo failed before i got round to it, if you can, recon your turbo and get hybridised, should last alot longer. works out cheaper, but better aswell for the car. i hope this helps.

Worth a shot up your way George! @Ootohere FDownloader.Net_AQO6nolSb7EjPAPQ-KuKQbmbpDUbXGv1xGqwu94sOG-T80tW-11b4w1U-YNvOdWttkhMmf5H2KBqK1gEl_KRDP5T_720p_(HD).mp4

I could not answer your question but was going to comment on your mechanic and then saw that you had taken the words out of my mouth! He is a keeper, fingers crossed that your car will remain one for a good while yet.

The response I received from DVSA was dismissive! In the reply I received, they stated there was considered to be no risk of fire from this type of occurrence, due to the lack of any ignition sources!

Much of that sounds like dealer bull**** to drum up some work. Discs... Just take it for a run and do a few hard emergency stops from higher speeds when appropriate to clean up the discs. Shocks... Misting is not the same as leaking. Some light misting is normal. Bush... There's no play in it so it should be fine for a good while yet.

I suspect you're overthinking this somewhat. The most likely explanation that rev N is not recommended for earlier cars is that it simply hasn't been tried with them.

Interesting to find this Forum as I have been searching, found a similar one on VW forums. I’ll post my reply I did there. I have now submitted a report to DVSA. Hi all, interesting that I found this post. My Seat Ibiza 2016 has just broken down and I had the same symptoms, EPC light came on and strong fuel smell. The mechanic found the exact same issue, one bolt head sheared off (bolt now stuck in manifold and needs to be tapped out!) and the bolt above extremely loose. This causing the seal to split and spray fuel everywhere. Did anyone get any luck on getting compensation from speaking to VW Group?

Gents, she’s here…and she’s beautiful! 😍 say hello to ‘Myra’ 🤣

Osprey expansion in Kirkcaldy

Firey clouds

Taken from my kitchen window this morning - there are nicer things out there than Skoda Superbs!

Well I’ve made the leap of faith!!!! After 10 years of Passat b5 /b5.5 ownership and uk passats forum I’m now the owner of a 2017 Mk3 Octavia Estate 2.0 TDI VRS. Hopefully Bring something to this Forum once I’ve got Familiar with her.

Hello all! Thought I’d pop back in and give you an update… Yes I’ve not been in here in years, had a hell of a job trying to get back into Briskoda previously and gave up. But was searching for something else on my old iPad which seems to have remembered an old log in’s details so I can finally access Briskoda again… After the engine fire plans were put in place to upgrade the Yeti. No point spending more money to have it back the same. A fully built more modern alloy block 2.5tsi was done that will take 800+bhp and a DSG box as it’s probably going to need to go flappy paddles at the power level. The shell was stripped and rather than a roll hoop behind the front seats, a full motorsport compliant roll cage was welded in. This is where we are now, but nothing has happened in the last few years. ive been fortune enough to have the money to go and do other stuff. In 2021 I raced a Nissan GT3 in Britcar. In 2022, 23 and 24 I’ve been racing a few things including period 90s Super Touring Cars. It’s a shame but the Yeti has fallen out of favour and sat there. im now in a situation where it needs maybe 20k spending on it to finish it. And quite simply I can’t justify that on a car that isn’t as good as the race cars, complete overkill on the road and unlikely to be used other than a couple of track days per year. So I suspect this is the end for the project. As I said it’s a shame, but I’ve been very fortunate to have a McLaren 765LT etc… over the last few years and dumping a ton of money into a 15 year old modified road car that will never be as good is just hard to justify, I have looked at selling it complete with the brand new forged engine but I doubt there would be any takers at the 20k it would break to with the motorsport dash etc…. so it seems this journey is destined to end with a sell off of the parts and the shell being squashed. And yes, in 2018 I went off, did the furry thing and got it mostly out of my system. Nice to have a bit of variety in life!

Somewhat passed sad and heading towards sentimental!

If it helps anybody I replaced mine with a Febi Bilstein kit 170879 (oil separator with vent hoses), cost was £67 from Amazon and it covers the last released part no. from VW of 06H 103 495 AH. My existing part was dated 09 so looks like it had never been changed.

And numerous other people in this thread and the T-Roc thread have posted about the problem on a manual. It happens to both.

Is Android Auto built into the infotainment system? I haven't seen it. Smartlink is there, but as far as I know Android Auto is a phone app, based within an Android smartphones archtecture, and it's currently on 13.3.644654 updated early December '24. Smartlink is the the interface software on the car, that provides the linkage between the two. If you have Smartlink, you can link your phone to your car.