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Nothing to do with the cam belt. OP said it was replaced according to schedule. The question should be, when was the alternator belt inspected or replaced?

Worthwhile for the cost of the belt, I would turn the engine carefully forward to 180° ATDC stopping if I felt any resistance, if that went well then I would buy and fit a belt, then turn the engine over by hand, if that felt OK do a compression test, if all good then I would know the engine will start and run unless I had made a Horlicks of the cam timing.

EVs are just for wokies? Well I'm DEFINITELY not getting one then. 😋

The car was bought by myself along with two additional identical cars from motopoint they had less than 10k on them at the time. I sourced them for the sales reps at the company that I was the GM for at the time. The reps were spread out the UK so they took cars to local approved garages for their servicing. I have all the receipt's... Not in front of me right now.... Ultimately what difference does it make? The timing belt was taken out by the fan belt snapping and wrapping around it.... I have no recourse with the garage. I get you guys want the full picture and thought I gave a good overview at the start of this thread. That company I was the GM at decided to cease trading so I bought the car off the CEO. I usually run newer cars but I started my own business to decided to just run the Skoda for my commute until the company is up and running, its still early days for the business. Thankfully I have an Abarth 595 comp, aka ****box which was bought for ****s and giggles a good while back, thats being used at the moment. Hopefully that provides better insight. I feel a little like I'm being quizzed so that someone can say you had it coming or I failed to look after the car, both are not true. All three of those cars had servicing done in accordance to Skoda or the VAG group. The belt has gone end of, I need to work out what to do in the most cost effective manner as I have a new business that I'm growing. I'm also near 50, have driven for longer than I haven't. I was working on cars from the age of 12 with my dad, timing engines, changing exhausts, rebuilding brakes alone too. I'm also a petrol head have two supersport bikes a new'ish R1 and a ZX-10r. I'm here for advice not schooling lol I do appreciate the sensible helpful advice guys 👍

It's not coding as such. You need to use the the likes of VCDS, OBDII or Carly to let the car know a new battery ahs been installed. The car then knows this and adjusts the charging to suit. There are videos on YouTube about it. If you search about it you'll find articles / people saying you don't have to do it. Others saying you do and some saying if you don't do it it might shorten the live of the new battery. If you have VCDS, OBDII or Carly it is easy enough to do. You just put in the capacity of the new battery, the type of battery and it asks for the serial number. For the serial number you can put anything as long as it is different to the existing battery.

I've only seen one Tesla (or any EV for that matter, but it happened to be a Tesla) driven badly IRL. Some woman was weaving in and out of traffic like a loon on the M42. I understand the temptation to misbehave in them, the acceleration must be intoxicating, especially with most ICE cars substantially slower than you. But in my experience, EVs seem to be driven very responsibly, as a demographic.

It is probably cheaper to borescope than put new belt on. And not necessarily, but probably also more reasonable alternative. Then you know what the damage is and it will be easier to decide what to do. Just throwing on new belt and hoping for best is most likely just waste of money and possibly causing more damage.

Home of the SBS !

Portsmouth - major Navy port, ferries to France,Spain and Isle of Wight.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Assuming your profile details are correct, you have a non-ACT engine - that quoted price would be too high even if you had the much more complicated ACT engine. Strongly suggest checking with an independent specialist - or at least a comparison quote from a different Skoda garage. What engine (size and fuel) do you have?

Or perhaps more likely, part of it jammed up the crank pulley, causing it to stop rotating abruptly? Not sure.

There is, the timing belt is fully covered, albeit by plastic covers. I guess the aux belt remnants flailing about managed to destroy part of the covering.

Don't have a sound bar every think is OK it's just when I play radio TV got to be on lol I just used a pic of the grandkids in the background now on tv when radio plays so looks better lol 😆 😅

Failure at idle will be likely be bent valves alone, if any broke then its probably more severe.

Sorry - that should have read: check with a Boroscope to check the cylinder head BEFORE you take off the head itself. Typing too quickly this morning.

Not sure of the value of using a borescope once the head's off? It's not a dead cert that the head is toast at all, but you won't know without looking. That it was at idle and 'gently stalled' might mean it stopped quicker, which in turn might mitigate the level of damage. Unfortunately it's more likely for there to be damage than not. In the mid '90's my S-i-L snapped the cam belt on her Ford Sierra, and then tried to start it. Expecting the worst I got a replacement head before I started. Once the head was off it was clear the original head was in better condition than the replacement and was easily repaired. You never know - fingers crossed for you 🤞 Gaz

Morning 🌻 So the log book says registered jan 2015. But also says Type: 5J I would've said it looks like the first pic, but prob best to not go by that anyway as i had the 2006 one for 10 years and it's prob that stuck in my memory. I will try to test the battery charge today 🤔 Thanks for all input so far 🙏

Amazon makes UK’s largest-ever order of electric trucks https://www.multimodal.org.uk/article/amazon-makes-uks-largest-ever-order-of-electric-trucks?utm_source=feedotter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=FO-01-17-2025&utm_content=httpswwwmultimodalorgukarticleamazonmakesukslargesteverorderofelectrictrucks A mazon is expanding zero-exhaust emission deliveries with the UK’s largest-ever order of electric trucks as well as the launch of rail deliveries across the UK. More than 140 new electric Mercedes-Benz Truck eActros 600 trucks and eight Volvo FM Battery Electric trucks are joining Amazon’s transportation network over the next 18 months as part of the UK’s largest-ever electric heavy vehicles (eHGV) order. Once fully operational, these new eHGVs are expected to transport more than 300 million packages each year with no exhaust emissions. The new electric trucks will haul trailers with products and packages to and from fulfilment centres, sort centres and delivery stations to customer doorsteps. Around 20 of the Mercedes-Benz trucks will join Amazon’s transportation network following the company’s participation in the UK Government’s Zero Emission HGV and Infrastructure Demonstrator programme (ZEHID), with a proportion funded by the Department for Transport and coordinated in partnership with Innovate UK. Amazon has also added eight Volvo FM Battery Electric trucks as part of the programme. To support the expanded fleet, Amazon will install additional fast charging infrastructure across key UK sites, including 360kW electric charging points capable of charging the 40-tonne Mercedes-Benz trucks from 20 to 80 per cent in just over an hour. The new electric trucks will have a range of 310 miles (500km) on full charge. Future of Roads Minister Lilian Greenwood said: “Business has a crucial role to play in decarbonising our roads, and that’s why it’s fantastic to see Amazon place the UK’s biggest ever order of electric trucks, supported in part by the Government’s £200m ‘Zero Emission HGV and Infrastructure Demonstrator’ project. This comes on top of our £2.3 billion to help industry and consumers switch to electric vehicles, supporting jobs, attracting investment and making Britain a clean energy superpower.”

Extremely bad luck. It does happen and if you car was serviced by Skoda, you might have recourse to them to get it fixed under good will. Otherwise, it will probably be bent valves if you were at idle. The worry is if the valve has either impacted (hard) the top of the cylinder head or (worse) - snapped and gone into the combustion chamber....in which case, it would have scored the cylinder liner and I would suggest would probably end up being scrap. You could get the engine bored out slightly, put in some oversized pistons.... Anyway, first stop...to the garage/specialist. They will need to remove the cylinder head as a first port of call and via a Boroscope - inspect the top of the cylinders. Plans can then be made on whether its just new valves or whether it a new engine.

Having said all that, a bad connection would tend to make the light(s) not work, rather than stay on when they shouldn't be on, unless the two wires are shorting together somewhere near that same area. Cutting that short section of trunking off may reveal something. Could also be that the switch contacts are sticking, but probably best to improve the wiring situation first, if any damage is found.

Hello Briskodians, I would like to offer a repair service for some types of electric window motor module as fitted to a few Skoda models, as well as one or two VWs. At this stage it applies only to two specific, exact part numbers fitted to the driver's side front door, as follows: 6Y2959802 Fitted to later Mk1 Fabia, from around October 2004. 6Y1959801 Fitted to Very early Mk2 Fabia and Roomster until end of October 2007; as well as 9N3 Polo and a few Transporters. (And some late 9N Polos I have learned). Private Message me a VIN if you'd like me to check whether your car has this part number fitted. (As described a few posts below, either of the above part numbers + suffix A on the end can also be repaired. Also happy to try with units of the subsequent generation, with part numbers 6Q1959801F, G, H, or J.) Note that both of these are driver's side units, the difference in part numbering is due to the orientation/positioning of the motor module on the panels they mount to. These parts suffer a type of intermittent, progressive failure where they 'sometimes work fine, sometimes don't work at all'. Eventually they just completely stop working. This is what I can fix for you. I will test your faulty unit, confirm the problem, repair it to full working order and post it back to you for £59, total. You'd post it to me - less than 1Kg so can be sent for around £4.25 on a tracked24 service purchased online at Royal Mail. I would aim to turn it round within 2 days of receipt, and send it back tracked24. This is the what the part looks like: Central locking via remote will still work in the absence of the window module, so you will be able to secure the car as normal while it is away. Obviously you'll want to ensure that both front windows are fully shut, as in the absence of the driver's side module the passenger side one will not operate. New units are no longer available from Skoda/VW, and ebay 2nd hand ones with these part numbers tend to go for big bucks. I will charge you just £59 including return postage. Cheers, Pete Edit 30/08/25: To get in touch, please click on my username which will take you to my profile, with contact info.

I've lowered my car and the lights are facing down so i need to know the procedures to adjust the Matrix LED headlights using OBD11 or VCDS... I've seen a lot of videos for VW and Audi but non of them for Skoda so i need advise from any one did the same in the Octavia MK4... Thanks in advance..

"Hydrometer" - used for measuring density of liquids the specific gravity. You could also use a "Refractometer". Does the same thing but by differently.

The belt was changed within the service schedule, it has been looked after there is no ignorance or complacency here. As I said the fan belt snapped and wrapped around the tiiming belt.

Although my Roomster is 2013 and only done 65k I am rather attracted to the Caddy Life. They are either 5 or seven seater. It would have been a good Roomster model replacement.

Great price for AGM, shame about the cost of adaptation - swings and roundabouts I guess.

OK, they said they had launched a dispute with a 3rd party and if it was successful I would also get the excess, but as there was no 3rd party involved, I can only assume it was the manufacturer. Unless there was more in the CCTV than the police were able to see at the time of the incident and I have not heard about it.

Easy on and easy off yet good on snow or ice is the main things then. And clearance if not just snow / iced up chains but in the wheel wells. Best without mud flaps.

Yes it's for Val Thorens in France, which is a very high ski resort and I've read that snow chains are frequently needed to be used, let alone just required by the police. I have taken snow socks on previous trips and not needed to use, but after hearing about some friends shredding theirs and getting stuck I figure I'd rather invest in chains for the peace of mind.

If you set the battery to preserve energy thats pretty useful on longer runs. I normally get close to 450 miles on a full tank (£45-50) with daily / bi-daily charging, about 80 miles a day.

The VW group part number may well be visible on the rear face of the alternator. Match that exactly and you will be fine.

Interesting development with my insurance claim. Seems that my insurance company is looking to claim costs from the manufacturer and have initiated an official dispute. Wonder if their salvage contractor was able to identify the cause. Would be good to know, also in terms of warning other users of cars with potentially similar issues. If they are successful, I would also get the excess back from the insurance. Not a big deal, but would help with the unexpected expenditure resulting from the incident.

I just upgrade from firestick to this TV cube the fire stick side is working spot on.its the Alexa side of it every time I ask it to play a radio station it will turn my TV on and play on tv I looked on settings to see if I can turn TV side off but no joy.i only got cube so u can update my old firestick lol and an Alexa to play music but it keeps turning TV on lol

Yes, it's quite common for the wires near that connector to degrade, possibly due to the transitions between relatively stiff plastic convoluted trunking and the free bits of wire just before the connector entry. Vibration and engine movement can cause the insulation to crack thereabouts, then water can get in and turn the copper conductors within into green and black dust over time. It's probably best to remove that section of convoluted sleeving completely, buy a connector with tails of wire prefitted, and keep cutting back the insulation of the existing loom until clean bright copper is found. Then splice the wires together from new connector and loom. Part number is just visible in your photo, 1J0973702, I think.

Back in the 60s my dad made a fortune for those times cleaning subs on the Manchester ship canal. They didn't patrol canals 😂

https://lbndaily.co.uk/740-tankers-9m-tonnes-crude-oil-mersey-year/ Essar Oil’s huge refinery at Stanlow supplies 16% of the UK’s road fuel and its round-the-clock operation sees 740 tankers and 9m tonnes of crude oil in the Mersey estuary each year.

I guess it is injectors or glow plugs out and borescope in to find out. Most likely there is some valve or piston damage 😞

This is not the first time this has happenned and won't be the last. What is the mileage? It's probably not worth paying somebody to inspect and do any top end work unless you throw a new belt on it and hope for the best. Salvage engine is probably the best option. Its a shame to ruin a good car for the sake of a few quid, I keep a close eye on mine at every service and it still looks in good shape but when I read things like this I might just order a new one!

ETA: @ColinD - sorry, perhaps not yet, perhaps a check of NJ or 5J just to be sure. My wife's car appeared to be made in April 2015 but was with dealer (or registered anyway until 30th September 2015. Perhaps this car was swapped at birth. 😁 @Triff Child would be easy, this is my owner, sometimes administers the keyboard, which can often improve what I've put. I could have steered all wrong and yours is a MK3, it'll have NJ in the VIN if it's a MK3 and 5J in the VIN if a Mk2 (had to check on that Wiki page and the VIN for my wife's early Mk3). Battery and washer is a funny one, presumably as you've checked the battery connections you have checked the connections are tight and checked the state of charge of the battery, low battery charge can upset the computers and get them to throw up all sorts of odd things. There could be two separate issues or one thing causing or common to both. Washer light could be sensor, (another thread had about Rain-X possibly causing issue, no idea if that's correct or possible), wiring, connections. Battery light is actually generator, alternator, this shouldn't be on when the engine is running so there is a fault there (another reason to check the state of charge in the battery before low battery charge causes more issues or stop the engine from starting or running. If you have access to a wiring diagram and/or a suitable scan tool they would help but you still need to look at the wiring and connections physically anyway.

Only change what is broken. Soft sprung on the front is not okay. It should be comfy firm. change in pairs!

mine, 2019 model, purchased in september ‘24, 85000 mls at the moment, 76 at start. 1.0tsi on 18” which give a good ride, far better than the 16” which resides in the shed now, still almost brand new.

I did, yes. I found a thread on the forum which suggested this was a relatively known problem whereby a failed relay meant that the cooling fan kicked in after the engine was turned off and continued to run until it killed the battery. I replaced the relay for next to nothing and it's thankfully not happened again so can only assume that was indeed the issue 👍

I readf that Mr Muscle is death to alloy. I was going to try it but was worried I would damage alloy parts on turbo. Think the best option would be to either strip down and clean and recondition yourself or replace with new or good second hand turbo. I was lucky as it was the actuator itself that was ssticcking,

Had wondered recently - good to know still going strong and fingers crossed for the house purchase. @JR RS is going to give you a run for your money on the modification front

I had over boost on my BKD from when I got it at about 70k miles. The Mr muscle trick usually sorted it out for about 9 months, but eventually it stopped doing anything and I re-cored the turbo smack on 100k. The fins had sheared off the turbine and chewed up the vnt mechanism so it was sticking. Mellett core and a new vnt ring sorted it out.

Changed the wing mirror covers on my MY17 Superb to the facelift version, which has the BSD light on the cover. Got it from AliExpress. Good fit. Wasn't plug n play. Happy with the end result. More details about the installation here.

I'd imagine it's the switches themselves. The lever mechanism inside the switch is rubbish, these fail or fall out of place. They can be repaired with steady hands. The whole mechanism lifts up, then unplugged. If you're brave enough you can then proceed to open it.

The new February edition of “Car Mechanics” magazine includes a “how to” guide for timing belt renewal on the 1.5 TSI evo engine, with lots of pictures and the special toolset needed, for anyone interested.

Somewhere it is convenient to see and remove for cleaning would be my choice.

Eventually the garage sorted things by recoding the keys. After that was doe I was able to set myself up as the primary user.