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The engine is slow to drop revs due to inertia and also for emissions reduction, you could fit a lighter flywheel and probably find no difference other than the myriad other negatives that it will bring. Most people who modify engines and fit lightened flywheels are concerned with the throttle response, how quickly the engine will pick up revs for heel and toe downshifting and in their imagination miniscule gains in acceleration.

I've ordered mine last week (85 Edition with Maxx package in brilliant silver) and the anticipated delivery date they've given me is 14th of May. It'll be interesting to see when the car is actually build and how much that impacts delivery. As for @skomaz's earlier intrigue, I've also been keeping a close eye on the reviews and videos online. With the Elroq I see it more like a calculated risk.... if it was a brand new model with nothing similar to compare it with (in terms of dimensions and tech), then fair enough, it would be a bit brave to place an order without actually seeing the car. Whereas I see the new Elroq as a much refined Enyaq with a modest boot which just so happens to be what I'm looking for. I think what remains risky is just how well I'll actually get on with an EV for general use.

Did you read it properly before signing?

No they just use standard CR2032 batteries so definitely not wireless charging capable.

If you'd like the current part number for the coilpacks, ping me the reg or VIN. Unless someone made a mistake (or only claimed to replace them...), plugs fitted in Oct '24 can't really be a problem already? Check no.3, sure.

hopefully you manage to get yours before April, timjfw5. Very curious to hear your fist impressions!

A condition check of the spark plug in cylinder 3, if not all, would be wise prior to any parts spending, to be honest, if garage have not done so.

Cylinder 3, I think Gaz. See full description under this vid: https://youtu.be/1ZyIgvil_9A?si=DKGeqbpjK8ZPBPVu I would certainly not replace unfailed ones, but I might acquire a spare to keep in the car, for potential roadside repairs.

Well, me being stupid: the report most definitely did say the colour code at the top of the first page - which turns out to be Lava Blue. I chose this car out of the 40 or 5 almost identical ones on Arnold Clark's site because it was best value. It turns out it was best colour (for me and wife) too. Lucky.

Helix (19) belatrix (18)

You do realise that most people never do this?

Brilliant silver will look amazing yns. It'll be my first experience with an EV too. The electric charger has been installed, just waiting for the car now.

So...had my 2.0TSI estate for nearly 7 years now (bought from someone on here). It was remapped to 260bhp by me after about a month as standard... and has been great. However after engine light kept coming on this year, I decided to invest in a new manifold (which fixed it) and new Koni dampers and new springs. Intention to keep another few years at least. And what a transformation! The car is back to life. Handling much improved, the old suspension passed mots fine but must have been very tired. The ride which was on a par with my 2018 Fiesta ST is now really smooth. Really happy as it is still an immaculate car and much more stable in every way. Going to buy the racechip pedal box to improve the throttle response (to make getting out the ST that bit less of a shock!) and I have a family car I'm genuinely happy with, owned for 2 years longer than anything else I've had.

I just googled that number it brings up, air intake manifold flap actuator, I bought the ally bit for my car hoping it would do the trick untill I got a bill for around £600 for a new manifold Inc labour but my car had about 140k on it so was well worth my spending the ££ on him!

You could swap the coilpack from cylinder 3 to cylinder 4 and see if the misfire moves to see if it's coilpack or spark plug/cylinder related?

Now that would be nice! The dealer better not use it for a demo car or there will be trouble !!!

The regular Octavia keys have CR2032 lithium batteries, but perhaps the iV's keys are rechargeable? We need an iV owner to confirm what the manual says.

+1 for Noco they're great, mine was circa £100 and works flawlessly about 3 years later

If you are using it for long trips remember that the fuel tank is smaller on the IV. Obviously can be easily overcome with a bit of planning but don't get too far off the beaten track with an empty tank! I use a roofbox with my diesel Superb for long trips and it works well (I always take heaps of stuff with me) but the fuel consumption does take a hit when I give it the autobahn treatment!

Hello, is there update for this radio from SKODA FABIA 3 ? I have a problem with APPLE CAR PLAY. I hope that update will help me. Thank you in advance.

Be interested to know how long it takes from build date to dealers arrival. You might get yours before they even get the demo model...we shall see.

Yeah, it's on an exclusive diet of Tesco Momentum 99 👍

Thanks Pete for the previous comment about cylinder 3 👍 I was also thinking that a visual inspection of the plugs might be informative, but then I wondered if the misfire count might not be enough to show a substantial enough visible change (that's just a guess btw). The garage didn't pull the plugs, this was just a scan to see what was going on, prior to booking it in with them. Equally a visual inspection of the loom and connections might be useful methinks. That'll probably be the next appointment. I'm tempted to look myself, but I'm still not over a hacking cough that's put my breathing out of kilter. Need to check, but I think the plugs were done in 2023. It's funny that for the sake of two lights popping up on the instrument cluster, you wouldn't know there was anything wrong. Power's still completely normal, stop/start's working fine, Mrs Gaz drove 75 miles yesterday and got 40mpg, which is above her 33.3mpg long term average (16k miles tracked). Gaz

Thanks Mark Yes, that’s exactly it! I’ve narrowed it down to first thing in the morning. I also briefly saw a message saying that ACC was disabled. After turning off and on again it’s fine. Not tried the horn… If I hadn’t had the car for such a short time, I’d go for a battery replacement myself but as it came from an Approved dealer as an Approved Vehicle, I’m hoping they will go down that route for me at their expense. I’m sure it’s a battery condition thing… Thanks for dropping by and adding to the story! Cheers Graham

Sounds like the same as mine - 0F/W5Q Lava Blue, right? I was a bit afraid it would be garish but now that I have it I think it's quite cool.

IIRC only software updates, but not all Skoda dealers are aware - one Mk4 owner even sold his car recently because his dealer knew nothing about the fix! You'll need to search through this Octavia IV forum to find the details.

If you want to know if your car revving seems different to normal then put up a video (shoot in landscape and not portrait as you generally get more info into the shot) and then it can be seen how fast or slow or not your car is to others. Just out of curiosity I tried revving my wife's factory standard 2015 1.2 TSI whilst in neutral and after the usual computer hesitation it revved freely and quickly, I only went up to about 3,500 so I guess the limiter might be at 4,000 (I thought it was 3,000), there was the expected drop speed in revs and soft landing to idle or higher idle. Things were as I would expect from a modern car and accelerator controlled by electric wires and connections, electronics and computer, a bit different to the old full mechanical system. A 2022 car possibly still in or not long out of warranty seems unusual for someone young or new(-ish) to driving or modifying, you might not be any of theses, and different people have different circumstances, but to me you seem like you might might be young so probably don't want to read the following or will dismiss it. Just fitting an induction system may not in itself add any performance gain and might actually reduce performance from factory standard and mess with the computer's set ups. If you are young you probably think all us old farts here were never young and did the things you've done and want to do but we probably did and didn't learn from our mistakes first time (or ever perhaps) but over the decades we did build experience and perhaps some knowledge (for those that can remember). As you didn't responded to my first post I'm not sure if you seen it but I did put a link to another forum on this site where you may find stuff more favourable to you, probably get the same answers but in a way and language you might prefer. If you are young and/or new-ish to driving or modifying your car if you wanted I could link you to previous posts or threads (if I can find them) giving general advice to lads wanting to improve/modify their cars.

Sorry I can't help with the parking brake issue, I think you would need to get the fault codes as a starting point. I would be more inclined to suspect something up with actual brake caliper motors or external wiring, since these are exposed to the harsh realities of salty Scottish roads, whereas the module sits in the cosy dry! But I just wanted to say that auto-hold has nothing to do with the parking brake, it uses the main hydraulic braking system (via a pump) to stop the car moving. And it is normal for this to disengage if you put the car into neutral.

Some early versions of the charging software/hardware didn't correctly charge the 12V when plugged in only when driving with the ICE on - there have been several threads here on the subject.

Hi Baxm. I gently pushed and pulled at the trim behind the mirror until it came loose ( but didn't completely remove it) then I could see that the usb-c female inside had jumped out of the little, fragile clip holding it in place. I pused it back in, And then held it with my finger until my dashcam power lead was fully seated and making a good connection. I then clipped the plastic mirror trim stuff back into place. I Dare say if I remove my dashcam power lead I will have to do this all again. Hope this helps. S.

Unless the battery was fully charged before the test, <80% capacity can be considered completely normal given the way the alternator smart charge controller operates - particularly if the vehicle often does short trips. A resting figure of 12.2 volts on a EFB equates to approx. 65% charged - again, normal, taking into account the smart charging system. Unlikely that one cell is failing at that reported resting voltage. Suggest a full charge, then a good load test to check battery condition.

Its very similar with the 1.5 TSI, If you keep between 60-65 mph the mpg is the best.

Still standard atm

I'm usually 2 adult one child 5years old but no laggauge yeah for me its too much i want to lower it 2.3 bar i didnt like 2.5 too bad handling

My mkII 2014 Superb didn't come with a service book from new but had printouts from the main dealer re servicing. When I moved away from the main dealer I bought a new blank service book(ebay) and stapled the last service history printout into the front of the book showing servicing thus far - thereafter I got my local independent garage to fill in and stamp the book when serviced. EG https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116009077431?_skw=skoda+service+book&itmmeta=01JK9KSSPRGA5NSQ8CKASBHR0Z&hash=item1b02ae0ab7:g:HjgAAOSwm7lj~Od3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0CodCO1vSDjg2xNOt8By6oBLo95iGqM9m2Jjg6TsiJxQbok5Zehiofd9LWRkkdhVlJJYTSboOJsUxMxoiOy%2FJQOlLhZruwT2Uoq2DbXqBBZLlFAlic64qWzqQrjgQwtqMVvpWUPuAlyze26Lco%2BAsyi0wm41kpC8B3coLtL625%2FuQoKMM0dXerOfUn66f6N59zW%2BCXi%2FsWhvf7bTzH4DgAf7VLSFXx8n3HBVM2KYi1ESrYS%2B51d7xPh%2FlINwNszMqn9gErytC%2BqeItO1ez6zwS4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Cb57OaZQ

Thank you for that, the only thing I can think of is when I did the timing belt I undid the pipes that run across the belt cover and just moved them out of the way. So it’s possible one of the rubber hoses either came off or cracked in the process and I didn’t notice it!

Phenomenally clear skies this evening - tonight's Moon

Its the DPF sensor, its connected to the exhaust, either the DPF is blocked and the back pressure has blown one of the flexible pipes off or it came adrift for some other reason, in either case the resultant combustion gases escaping have melted everything, I have seen several others like that. I suppose a crack or failure within the unit could do the same.

Not sure about the breather mod from memory but definitely got the oil spray jet update. I just have a monthly reminder to check the oil and top it up these days. It’s a fun little engine but to give you a context I bought the Polo and my Subaru Legacy GT Premium wagon (Liberty in Oz) a month or so apart in 2012. The Subaru has done 135,000km and the Polo about 75k. The turbo Subaru doesn’t use a drop of oil and the only issues it has ever had were the sat nav system needing resetting when it was a few weeks old and a gearbox sensor failing at about 100,000km that was a few hundred dollars to get sorted. The polo was in and out of vw for oil consumption and just from memory has had a water pump failure and a cracked PCV pipe and a few other things I can’t recall just now. still we are keeping the Polo as it’s a fun city car and the kids drive it too. I’m getting a new face lifted Octavia vRS to replace the Subaru hence being new here in this forum.

16GB and 32GB cards with part numbers beginning 5L0051236 (currently 52 of them on eBay) WILL work with a MIB1 Amundsen despite what som eBay sellers say - I know, I used one with my previous MIB1 Amundsen!

Oh dear. That is a nasty sight. I wrote the post above yours exactly a year ago and I bought a new Fabia - the new model the next day. The old one went into the trade as I part exchanged it at the dealers telling them that the suspension needed some work. Someone has had it MOT'd since though, which is good because there was loads of life left in the engine which had only done 76,000 miles (approx). I am guessing that a small motor trader bought it and fixed it himself, because the MOT runs until August 25 and I see it is back on the road. It is taxed until January 2026. I'm pleased that it didn't just get crushed. It was an uneconomic repair if you were paying garage rates, but a small dealer could have bought the parts for about £600 and done the job himself if he had the skills. I am glad you didn't come to harm when the bottom of the shocker sheared off. Some of the images above here with rotten swinging arms are hair raising. I like my new Fabia, but I will be waxoiling and looking after the bottom this time. VW group obviously have a problem in the paint protection of these under body parts.

Welcome to the Internet, you must be new here 😉. Seriously though, if the people who want to do DIY are allowed their opinion, then so are the people who don't. I don't think anyone was lecturing anyone in this thread - merely stating their opinions.

Aren't there just some former headmasters on this forum - do this, don't do that! I thought forums like this one were where like minded enthusiasts shared tips and ideas, not to get lectured on the 'proper' way to do things I've now discovered that many towbar companies are fitting the mk1 Kodiaq towbar with either a universal wiring kit or a dedicated wiring kit so I bought a mk1 towbar, dedicated wiring kit and fitted it myself! Total cost - about £300. Someone who commented on my post, with a positive attitude, was quite correct in that the mk2 does come fully prepared to accept a towbar. All the wiring is behind the n/s trim in the boot. No need to remove rear lights. Wheel arch trims partly unclip then slide. Easy peasy for an old man like me with a young son keen to help his Dad. By the way, the bits came off eBay.

Did you manage to do this ?

Tintowellfan "Also not heard any horror stories about the VW group three cylinder engines." Best not to go looking for any. The truths out there but there's true truth, false truth and half-truth. These days I often end up simply crossing my fingers. I'd have gone electric but that was not practical for many reasons. We ended up with a 3 cylinder turbo top of the range Fabia. Hope it works out with the 1.5 litre model, matrix2020.

I have the latest facelifted Octavia Estate. My fitters, Chester Towbars had to order in a different panel, rather than cutting the existing one. They gave me the original panel just in case I wanted to transfer the tow bar at a later stage. Works perfectly, it’s a Westfalia detachable. The only issue is that the Infotainment system couldn’t be programmed to show up when reversing. Instead I get a small speaker logo coming up.

5mm rubber mats. They last well, don't move about and I think they offer some soundproofing too. And given the weight of them, I think they probably lower the centre of gravity of the vehicle, too. 😄 https://www.amazon.co.uk/FSW-Compatible-Hatchback-Tailored-Waterproof/dp/B0DG6M3FPV?th=1

Below shows a standard 16" steel rim option for the Superb MK3 and a non-standard 17" steel rim option from the Kodiaq MK1. The 17" option works out quite a bit cheaper than the 16" option...at least going by the links below. The Kodiaq MK1 normally uses a 215/65R17 tyre size for its 17" rims, but the Superb MK3 uses a much smaller outside diameter 215/55R17 tyre size...so that would be the tyre size to use if considering 17" Kodiaq MK1 rims. The 17" Kodiaq MK1 rims use an ET38 offset, whereas the 16" and 17" Superb MK3 rims use either ET40 or ET41 offsets. However, having 2mm to 3mm less offset than standard isn't much and would move the centre of each tyre 2mm to 3mm further out in each wheelarch. The below wheel trims can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number. The Czech price is about £69 to £72 for a set of four wheel trims. The big difference in ride quality will come from changing down from 235/45R18 to 215/55R17. Changing down further to 215/60R16 is a relatively small improvement over the 215/55R17. By changing from 235/45R18 to 215/55R17 I would estimate that you would get about three-quarters (75%) of the ride improvement compared to going from 235/45R18 to 215/60R16. Alcar 8426 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Superb MK3) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=182143996746511472&rimCode=ALCAR8426 Set of four wheel trims for 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 steel rims (from Superb MK3) (OEM part number 3V0071456) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-hermes-16/p/3V0071456 Michelin CrossClimate 2 215/60R16 95V (Euro label C B 71dB) (£160.66 each at time of writing) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Michelin/CrossClimate-2/215-60-R16-95V/R-440129 Alcar 9021 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Kodiaq MK1) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=639488607098246256&rimCode=ALCAR9021 Set of four wheel trims for 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rims (from Kodiaq MK1) (OEM part number 565071457 Z31) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-borneo-17/p/565071457++Z31 Michelin CrossClimate 2 215/55R17 94V (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Michelin/CrossClimate-2/215-55-R17-94V/R-440152

I can recommend both. Which is no help at all. When the weather is bad, ie the winter months, we use the rubber mats. Especially as we have to pick up grandchild from school and she is a mud magnet. When the weather is dryer IE the summer we use the carpet mats. On the whole, we don't keep swapping it is rubber in the winter, carpet in the summer.

Sorry, I didn't make myself completely clear, I think. I wasn't suggesting direct attempts to probe the comms. What I meant was, remove fuse 50, do all the stuff to make the car think it is all closed up, wait at least 30 minutes after, then repeat your mV across fuses measurements. If those that showed activity before now don't, you can probably conclude that in the absence of the radio, everything else shuts down properly.