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Re compounds on heavy ICE vehicles a lot will depend on things like brake size and type and the vehicles place in the market and model line up (prestige or not sporty or not, top of range or not etc). They could have larger brakes with the same compounds as ordinary ICE vehicles or not. EVs may have smaller brakes with higher friction compounds to help keep weight down. Either way a large reduction in dust due to regeneration is welcome but it needs to be balanced with compound toxicity and human exposure levels regarding risk to human health. For example a 39% reduction in exposure to a compound that is twice as toxic would still be worse than no reduction in a base compound.

Form what I understand EVs can create more dust than a non EV when brakes are used for the equivalent stopping due to thier increased weight etc. but use less overall due to regeneration. However they also generally have different pad compounds to increase friction values to compensate for the increased weight etc. and those compounds tend to be more toxic when released as brake dust.

I went for a mooch around Dungeness, where it was bright and sunny with a light haze. Flipping cold breeze though 🥶 I used to go sea fishing there, back in the late '70's: Stopped off on the way back to eye up some birds. Pretty sure I saw a Marsh Harrier, but no photo coz I was driving. Had I known how close I'd been (about 300 yards away) I'd have gone and had a look at the WW2 Sound Mirrors - gives me an excuse to go back when it's a bit warmer. Gaz

I do / have done additional items. Pollen filter changed annually instead of bi-annually (DIY £25) Front brake calipers cleaned/lubed annually - not specified in VW service checklist. MEB platform car's brakes get a bit sticky/grabby over time, I suspect liable to seize after a few years. Done as part of MOT visit to local garage.

@travs My MOT is Friday too as everyone’s happy on a Friday, another extra on making it pass Tbh nothing wrong with my car and only driven it about 3k miles since last MOT 🤪

I wasn’t completely comprehensive as I need to give it a polish and then I’ll ceramic coat it to keep it in good shape for a while…just need to carve out the time to do it. Yesterday was perfect weather - overcast, 6 or 7 degrees, hardly any wind. Have to hope for another unicorn like that

Me too. But more so that it hadn’t been done in such a long time. Although MOT Friday so bonus if that helps. Carpro Retyre cleaning the tyres Plenty of Iron Fallout to get rid of Carpro’s Lift to pre wash, Reset to clean up, IronX to get rid of the iron, TarX to get rid of the tar spots. Finished article; Carpro Hydro2 being my LSP of choice. Will do for now.

Taken by Mrs Gaz this evening: Gaz

Just a quick search comes up with so many results. The Top gear article did not link the source research paper, typical poor journalism. This lengthy article links to many sources: https://theconversation.com/car-brake-dust-can-be-more-harmful-than-diesel-exhaust-new-study-249736 Note, there is no discussion of brake pad material that are exclusive to EV in this article. As some were claiming. I believe this is the research paper in question: https://particleandfibretoxicology.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12989-024-00617-2 Note, there is no mention of brake pad material difference for powertrains in this paper. So typical of anti-EV crowd to latch on to any tangible news and fit around their narrative......

As someone who has suffered a similar issue, the fault code was P0442 - EVAP Emission Control Sys Looked here: https://www.autozone.com/diy/diagnostic-trouble-codes/p0442-evaporative-emission-control-system-leak-detected and a couple of videos on YouTube and tried clearing the code and cleaning the filler cap and top of the filler neck as many people suggested (I was sceptical it would make any difference, but it's free and easy to do). Three months on and several tanks of fuel and the error code hasn't returned. On the occasion it happened I may not have tightened the cap until I got it to click, since then I've stuck to a minimum of 3 clicks at each fill up. The code I got seems to be related to the Evap system not sealing when the car tries to pull vapour from the fuel tank and into the inlet manifold.

Without even reading any content in the thread my first thought was a knackered battery and that they can test ok but still not be enough for the systems in the car. Modern electronics can be quite sensitive to voltage fluctuations. If the cold cranking drops the voltage to below the happy point then it can send the systems into error. The issue soon goes away and the systems will function correctly for a time. However, it's not good for them to be going through that too often. You may also find that the car runs better on a healthy battery. Glow/spark plugs perform optimally alongside other solenoids etc.

@Paws4Thot Different EV,s will have difference costs as will different ICE Vehicles. There will be if done at a Main Dealer or at an Independent or even DIY. BEV,s, pollen filters, brake fluid, maybe an Oil change with some BEV,s. Inspections / look sees. Wipers occasionally. ICE Vehicles, Engine Oil & Filter, Pollen Filter and Air Filter occasionally, spark plugs if a petrol occasionally, fuel filter for a diesel occasionally. gearbox services for some, automatic or manuals. Wipers occasionally. Inspection / look sees. Some might well miss doing some servicing or go by their own schedules. How does this Major Service compare to what your car would get?

I am now receiving weekly phone calls from Skoda Customer Support telling me that the software update is not yet available. The lack of urgency is staggering unless, of course, they can’t actually find a solution. I’ll bet they are still selling these cars to unsuspecting customers!

Those voltages should have fried most of the electrics if accurate.

The voltages are absurd. Are you confident the used meter is working OK? It sounds like the voltages are approximately double of what they should be. And that sounds dangerous, like having a hydrogen electrolyser under the hood lol. Octavias should have common ~12 V rest voltage and 14-15 V charging voltages. I wud expect the battery to be dead already if the readings are correct.

Apologies in advance for being the grumpy old man in the room... but the Kodiaq isn't a sports car. And if you can't factor in the throttle lag or any other characteristic of the car you're driving when driving it safely, that sounds like a problem with the driver, not the car. The car is set up to behave like a large family SUV, not a Porsche 911. And this from the owner of a vRS, which as I've said before (and will undoubtedly say again) is still not a sports car - it's a perfectly capable Grand Tourer, but anyone who expects anything else really should have bought something else.

My Citigo needed new front discs and pads earlier this year due to rust. The car is 8 years old with 21K miles, so often parked up for days. The discs were delaminating on the inside face so not picked up be me, but my mechanic had been warning they were getting poor until he called time on them this year. He said the OEM VAG discs were prone to rusting and the lack of use made it worse. He expects the new discs to last better as they are not VW. In fairness though, this is the first expense for mechanical issues in 8 years. The tyres were also replaced last year at around 18-19K miles due to age cracking at 7 years old.

I've just had my VW ID.4 in for some warranty work (the ubiquitous VAG electronic door handles failing) and got sent the visual health check video. The brake pads are still at 80% after 50K miles. This is slightly higher than the mileage I would be expecting to replace pads on my ICE cars. The second service is next week which is the usual visual checks, suspension checks, new pollen filter and replace brake fluid. It will be done at my local (EV qualified) independant garage for a lot less than VW want (£360) with an MOT. Servicing is every two years with no mileage limit. Proof that in my experience EVs are cheaper to service.

Oxidation starts the minute you stop driving when damp

Actually, is it not true that unless a car, regardless of its drive train, should not have rusty discs unless it has spent a reasonable amount of time not being used? The pads are supposed to be in light contact with the disc, unlike drum brakes, disc brakes do not have any pull off springs to pull the shoes/pads clear off the drum/disc?

Some reading... Quantifying the change of brake wear particulate matter emissions through powertrain electrification in passenger vehicles - ScienceDirect.mhtml

'Generally' is interesting. What matters is 'commonly', & are there really that many EV,s currently and into the future with different brake pads and going through them more often than a Petrol or Diesel car does? & is lots of the wear not from the car brakes needed to slow the car, but being work by crappy rusty discs. eg, VW Group vehicles. (My Cosrsa Electric had 3 sets of Discs in the 3 years i had it, that was replaced twice, just from me not using the brakes other than to come to a stop at slow speeds and when parked they were very rusty and scored. There was a very good shifter and i drove in D and shifted to be for slowing into corners or coming behind vehicles and just hardly touched the brakes, as i have always done in Automatics. I have only one foot so i really am aware about using the brake pedal, and how seldom i do.) 2 States in the USA are somewhere towards regulations on Brake Pads and the compounds, less copper etc. This is where things are falling behind. As to EV,s it needs remembered that there are quite a few models with rear Drum Brakes so enclosed. These being as with older vehicles. Actually collecting brake dust on front brakes would not be difficult with enclosed brakes and cooling is still possible. Legislate. That is the Governments job in the drive to Net Zero. Lots of big fat EV,s being allowed on the roads, well the Governments have agencies with scientists just like those in Universities. Actually they went to Universities and did Research....

A favourite spot of ours. The only official desert in the uk. Enjoy popping along there for a bit of photography with the hoards. Then getting fished out on lobster rolls at the shack, fish and chips at the Pilot, and a splurge at the fishmongers opposite. Has to be done though takes me a while to get over it tbh 😀

That's why EV pads tend to be on galvanised backing plates with different glues and mechanical connection between the pad and backing.

Official line from VAG is its lifetime but ignore that and change it. Here’s the parts list: DSG DQ381 filter - 0GC325183D DSG filter O ring - N91084501 DSG fluid (OEM G055529A2) DSG bottom drain plug washer - N0438092 DSG mechatronic unit drain plug & captive washer - N90965401 DSG filler adapter - vas6262a kit (or one of many other alternatives)

Heard it some months ago, tosh then and still tosh. Even if EV brake pads were softer to grab better for EVs slightly higher weight they simply are used a fraction compared to ICE cars. From what I heard the biggest issue with EV brakes is they are used so little, as regen does all the work, that freeing them up is the issue as the move and consume the brake pads at such a slow rate !!

Did you not get an invoice with parts used, Fluid, new plugs/ seals, filter? ASK IF THE FILTER WAS REPLACED WHERE THE DSG WAS SERVICED. Get the filter changed. VW Group / Skoda were the ones that showed not until the 2nd Oil Change Service. That is a nonsense. Messy job though doing the filter. ............... Dq200,s are 7 Speed TwinDry clutch DSG,s. No service Interval / Regime / Recommendations / Guidelines. But the 2 Oils can be changed. In the Box and in the MCU. A 1.6 TDI FWD does not have a Wet Clutch DSG. A Kodiaq with FWD & not AWD does not have a DQ200 DSG.

Slowish pan at 1/20th sec. Cameras electronics kept the car nice and sharp.

DVSA are responsable for MOT testing, its a government department. I called the author a blogger because of the web address: Mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk

Thanks for your help 👍. I'll let you know how it goes.

Tanks are vented. Caps seal so that when the vehicle is upside down the fuel is not escaping from the filler pipe / cap.

You can use postcodes but I personally gave up with it. I found that the simplest method of putting in destination is to use the Map option on the My Skoda app. This uses Google maps to get the details, then send the route to the car. Thd Nav screen will display a prompt just start route to get going. You need to Stop a route when you arrive at the destination - touch the screen top left. Deleting is a knack - sort of hover and swipe right to get up delete button.

@zom414 Get round tyres; Rudolf Uhlenhaut tried square ones on a Mercedes GP car but the drivers complained about too much vibration!

I think we have finally cracked it!! I ordered one of these last week from Burteq in Chechia. https://burteq.com/products/octavia-4-memory-module?variant=48608674808132https://burteq.com/products/octavia-4-memory-module?variant=48608674808132 I installed it today and followed the instructions like disconnect the battery first and expect loads of scary faults on reconnection! I have only driven it a couple of times but it seems to be working!! It sets the memory for stop/start and lane assist when they are disabled via the touchscreen. I haven't tried the driving mode or forward assist as they don't bother me but the stop/start was massively frustrating. It took about 15 minutes to install on my 2023 octavia VRS diesel estate, quite fiddly due to the position of the module but really straightforward after watching the video. Here is to just getting in a car and driving it again without having to reprogram it before every journey!!

As expected, phone call back to the dealer and after a lengthy wait on hold, been told manufacturers recommendations have been followed and the filter only requires changing every other gearbox service 🤷🏼‍♂️ On a positive note, my warranty claim is being honoured. Something to do with the KESSY which apparently had shown faults during service diagnostics

Hope some find this interesting. VAG SSP 511 – The New EA211 Petrol Engine Family - PDF for FREE It's old but interesting to those who like to know a bit about how their engine works.

personally I have no real issues but then I have a manual gearbox. My thought is therefore that it's a DSG take up issue that people are complaining about - and that's an issue common to most automatics, regardless of type in my experience.

Mine makes the same noise for everything. I've had it nearly four years and there's still a momentary "oh ****" when I hear the noise, to find it's just a little chilly outside.

I was aware of that VW has a reputation of suffering from rusty brake discs and also callipers, something that my car is supposed to be suffering from is callipers corroding, especially in the area where the bleed nipples are. I say that because my car needs to have its brake fluid changed, as it is due for it according to the service history. In fact, it was booked in to be done, but the mechanic said he was unable to undo the nipples due to them rusting in the calliper, and the allocated time caused him to decease any further attempts at undoing them. I suggested that they could perhaps spray them with penetrating fluid and leave it for a few days to soak in, and book the car in again to try again? I was told that would not work in their experience and the only thing that could do was to order up 4 new callipers just in case the nipples broke. This is still pending along with a slight oil leak which is not bad but will get worse if not attended to, so I intend to get the indie garage where I get my broken front spring replaced to attempt to do these jobs in the near future as I feel that the dealer will not even bother with attempting to get the old nipples out and fit new ones, but will just replace the complete callipers at a greater cost than the indie would. But my discs are showing any signs of rust anywhere the pads go, they do show signs however at the edge of the disc and the hub, which is normal as the pads do not come into contact there. But my car does get used almost daily, and Monday to Friday it is used at least twice a day taking one of my sons to his brother's as they work together and go in the same car 3 days a week, the other 2 days I have to take him all the way as his older goes to the gym early in the morning on those days. So that keeps my discs nice and shiny, so rust doesn't get a chance to build up.

All Season / All Weather. UK winter / All year maybe tyres. Not Snow tyres.

I had the exact same tyres and the exact same issue. I complained to Hankook and they said I had to direct my complaint to Skoda UK. You can imagine how that turned out. I posted the debacle on here somewhere. I foolishly bought some Hankook tyres for another vehicle, and they cracked sooner and far worse. I’ll never purchase Hankook tyres again. I’m now running Michelin Crossclimates and Goodyear Vector 4seasons.

The 15" wheels on the Fabia MK3 have a specification of 185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 The outside diameter of the 185/60R15 tyres is far too small for the Scala, but you could use those rims with the 195/65R15 tyre size. The 195/65R15 is a winter tyre size on the Scala and is normally fitted to 6Jx15 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rims. The ET38 rims from the Fabia MK3 will push the centre of each wheel 3mm further into the wheelarch compared to the ET35 offset.

Well @Ootohere and @lol-lol thats why I included the line "This was announced by that wonderful (sic) TV channel GBN." I couldn't find a more creditable source right now, maybe one will appear before too long, but I mean GBN, I mean come on, how much creditability do you think they have? Either way, I just thought that if it does indeed turn out to be true, then we have mentioned it, and if not then at least we have looked at it and had a laugh, so don't shoot the messenger hey?

Or the oil cooler which has a coolant to oil heat exchanger.

I think that Hankook changed their compound a year or so back, to address this, though MOT test probably accepts this “minor cracking” on newish tyres. Certainly my younger daughter and her husband binned the original rear tyres on their 2019 SEAT Arona because of this, as I would probably have done. They replaced these Hankook tyres with a newer version - which matched the recently replaced front tyres (car bought used at 3 years old), tyre tests data suggested/stated that this new version had improved compound and other “good” changes.

I reckon the sensor in the reservoir has stuck or failed or bad wiring/shorted out. Try removing it completely and see if the light comes on when hanging lose out of the reservoir. Mine on my MK2 puts light on plus alarm when about 1/4 full. A garage should be able to track down a leak easier as they can lift car for proper inspection. Remember to top up with fluid before driving anywhere. If the clutch isn't working you could try bleeding it to see if it will come back to get you to garage. At least you can read your reservoir. Mine are so opaque you can't see the level easily. Alasdair

Very tidy

If I remember correctly, like this:

those rims look nice 😍 i'm also running 245/40R19 tyres, on Rotiform 19x8.5 ET35. sits nicely with the body too 🙂

245 40/R19, ET35*9.5J, this is my current data, it is almost flush with the body, it feels pretty good.