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Hi, good point, sorry it does look a bit like that but it's not, this was just a quick photo I took on a cold night, the charger maintainer earth lead is connected to an earth lead connection point on the body of the car. I hope this shows it more. -

Not damage, but to avoid confusing the battery management system.

Getting there now.

Never powder coat your legs. It will end in tears...

Picked up my new car last Friday. Rang VW Finance to cancel the credit on Monday. Within 2 minutes I was told how much I had to repay (the borrowed amount plus less than £12 interest), and within 5 minutes a confirmation email arrived with their bank details to make the repayment. So easy.

Some places that change batteries can do it for you, possibly at an additional cost. Or there is a train of thought that some apply that if the new battery is the same type as previously fitted (and 'coded') and the same Ah rating, or near enough, that the system will sort things for itself. Some have posted on this site they have done that and things have been fine x-number of years later. Whether over the long term the battery life is shorten would take time and circumstances to tell. I don't think there's too much of a panic that the new battery must be 'coded' instantly it's installed. If you have the facilities available then it makes sense to 'code' the replacement battery but if you buy a scan tool only to 'code' the battery in then it doesn't make financial sense if that costs more than getting someone else to do it. There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other tools that can 'code' the battery in, and do scan tool reports, delete error codes and some a lot more. Most just want beer tokens, a few are professional services so want different renumeration. A link to a list of those members at the end. Who ever does the 'coding' like all data input it has to be accurate, one member posted that his professional auto-electrician put 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah which gave the replacement battery a short life (why VW's computer program allowed this error is beyond me). It's important to put the type of battery (EFB/AGM) the (correct) Ah rating and change the "serial number", as illustrated below when a Briskoda member 'coded' my AGM replacement battery (VW call AGM "fleece", of course they do!) for me with his OBDEleven. ETA: battery manufacturer is of no importance, as you can see I didn't even bother sticking with VW's three letter code, also as you can see the factory didn't bother with a real "serial number" on my wife's car or others that have been posted. List of VCDS and others owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Unplug the loom connector from the coolant temperature sensor and have a close examination of the mating face. Look for signs of wetness or corrosion. Sometimes coolant temperature sensors fail in a way that makes them leak pressurised coolant into the connector and wiring.

I'm surprised at the need to change for comfort. I'm on my 2nd MK4 Octavia, the first (SEL) had 17" wheels and my current (VRS) has 19", so a bigger jump than what you are suggesting. I wouldn't say that this one is less comfortable then the previous car..

It does have the coin tray but I have mine cable tied up behind the dash out of the way completely and use the app if I need to adjust it. after the initial setup I’ve had no need to go near it though and forget it’s even there until something like this thread reminds me I have one. 😂

Just for reference - mine is Varta from the factory. 2.0 TDI 150 hp 2016y (bought it new). Useful thread and information here, I need to measure mine on engine start.

Playing with my new camera

My project, ongoing mission to make a perfect mile muncher!

Superb 2.0TSI 282PS

There is usually a date stamp into the top face of the negative terminal, format is WWYY. Stamp matching production year would indicate battery is probably original.

Keep us informed!

For short circuit protection purposes whoever moved the cover to the positive terminal was a wise person.

Sorry, I can't help you there, but I'm sure someone will be able to

I've finally had time to sort a couple of the creaks/rattles in the car. 1. knee area when revs were over 2.5k. This turned out to be the ODB port plug rattling within the plastic trim. I removed the small cubby hole by pulling the bottom out and unclipping the ODB port before wrapping it in some fabric tape. Put back in and the rattle is gone! 2. The armrest. Took it apart and out of the car, stuck some felt all over the underside of the leather top, but it was too thick to clip back into place. I ended up taking it off and cutting small 1" long strips and placed them randomly around the arm rest. I then covered the whole of the underside plastic trim in fabric tape, including wrapping every single clip. Pushed it together with a bit of force and it's done. completley silent and wow does it change the feel of the car - much more premium. 3. around the lights / emergency buttons / cubby for sunglasses. That trim almost fell off when i pulled it - more fabric tape around it and its no longer making a noise when driving. all in all happy boy today who loves the car more than ever. Just the clicking brake pedal to sort!!

When doing compression test put a little bit of oil in the cylinder before testing said cylinder if compression increases will be pistons/ rings if doesn’t increase could be head gasket as previously stated

498 AL is wheels without centre caps, available separately 498 H is wheels with chrome/black centre caps There's some very fine print on the bottom right of that page that shows this. Both wheel codes are ET48 offset.

Connected my nextbase 522GW recently but had issues with the camera coming on all the tie when parked, support line was useless so going back to fusebox connection.

To my knowledge, they swapped the Cruise control stick. At least that is what I was told. Now it is ok.

I put together a bunch of data on the various stock setups on the rear in this thread, it might help you a bit. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479907-rear-suspension-information/

I'm not familiar with this idea of deleting the oil level dipstick - is there an electronic 'button press' to check oil level now - or are you supposed to wait until the Impending Doom light flashes up?

Function is hidden with no notification, it just happens. When stopped on a slope I just press the brake and after a few seconds hill hold engages, then when I lift off the brake I have a few seconds to get onto the accelerator. That's how it works on my 1.8TSI Octavia 3 with DQ200 DSG.

Mine has hillhold, nothing in menu options to turn it off. But why would you? It's a useful function especially with an auto and using s/s

At idle engine stops. If its start / stop system works..

USB-A to USB-C adaptor. Right angle may also be useful

@UndertheRadar My main reason for having it in the cubby is due to the nonpro version not having bluetooth. You are right though, once fitted it's very easy to forget it's there. I take that as a massive tick for it being a good product that just does what you want it to with no fuss.

It's likely mine is as well. As I bought it as an ex-demo at 6 months I can't be sure.

Thank you for the information, @iv3-skoda. I appreciate you sharing this with us. It's interesting that the error reappears so quickly for you. This definitely suggests a more serious problem than what I'm experiencing. The link you provided for the replacement NOx sensor looks promising. I'm glad you've found a potential permanent solution. It will be very helpful to hear about your results after you replace the part. Please keep us informed about how the replacement goes and whether it solves the problem. Your experience could be valuable for others facing similar issues, including myself if I decide to take further action in the future. Good luck with the replacement, and I look forward to hearing about the outcome! By the way, are you from Bulgaria? It would be great if we're fellow countrymen and could share experiences at a local level.

G06 is shown on the white build code label, so the OEM part number for the front shock absorbers is 1T0413031JD. Although L61 is shown on the white build code label, the car doesn't also have build code G02...so the front shock absorbers don't have OEM part number 1K0413031BL. The Octavia MK2 2.0TDI 103kW/140PS 4x4 has 288x25mm front brakes with build code 1ZE. These are associated with front steering knuckles that use front shock absorbers with 55mm struts. 1K0413031BL are front shock absorbers with 50mm struts, so can't be correct for this car. L61 relates to the front springs and can be used with both 50mm and 55mm front struts.

Not in my case! 😂

Well did my own plugs today and, having read up and learned since Rob's, the pull-and-thumb-push seems to work perfectly. Fingers behind the connector to pull on it gently, both thumbs on the clip to push up and you hear the little click; do all 4 and then the whole rail slides up. Wish I'd found those sorts of videos last week 🫣 Divine penance did rain on me, when I'd not spotted Cyl2 hadn't clicked in place so it was running on 3. Laptop out for VCDS, engine cover off to check and thankfully found the problem quickly. Cleared DTCs and was running smoothly again in the end. So much swearing though.

They're LED strips that are part of the headlamp, so the only way to replace them is buy a new headlamp £££. Given that the average lifetime of an LED when illuminated is 50,000 hours i.e. about 5 years 9 months that's an awful lot of driving. I agree LED lifetime is not extended by reducing their duty cycle as the heat generated is so minimal.

Not particularly likely, AFAIK, Eco mode simply lowers change-up point of gearbox (lower revs) and limits throttle response. Interrupted DPF regens and shorter trip distances are more likely to be the cause - although it sounds like your issue of increasing oil level may not be as much as you originally thought, and may actually just be a oversensitive high level sensor.

Agree with this - makes a world of difference to the throttle feel.

Hi. I now tray retrofit my octavia 4 on screen 13". In unit MIB3 OI - 5e3035816 have diferent resolution on the screnn. for 13" must by change unit to MIB3GP 5h7035816. Only this unit have SFD2 protection. on foto 13" conecting to MIB3 OI

Apologies in advance for being the grumpy old man in the room... but the Kodiaq isn't a sports car. And if you can't factor in the throttle lag or any other characteristic of the car you're driving when driving it safely, that sounds like a problem with the driver, not the car. The car is set up to behave like a large family SUV, not a Porsche 911. And this from the owner of a vRS, which as I've said before (and will undoubtedly say again) is still not a sports car - it's a perfectly capable Grand Tourer, but anyone who expects anything else really should have bought something else.

My car (4.5) came standard with it. It was one of the reasons we liked the car so much as so many models don’t have any spare these days.

Thanks to those who have shared their experiences. I've made my order this afternoon! L&K Hatch with the TSI 265, silver pebble, cognac interior and 19" alloys. I'm really pleased to finally settle on a specification and excited to drive it as I've never actually driven the TSI! But looking at the videos online and the stats, I don't think I will be disappointed in it. Now for the long wait....

I had a 320D for 15 months as a company car (my wifes actually). She hated driving it so I used it as a motorway grinder until she could give it back.... Quality wise, the BMW is obviously a bit better built & the interior materials were better. However, from a driving point of view the Octavia was much nicer particularly around town & felt much more nimble than the heavy BMW. Practicality for a family they are both the same but servicing costs for the BMW were double the Octavia (both taken to official dealers but I didnt actually pay for the BMW). One thing I disliked about the BMW (it was from 2014 similar to my Octavia at the time) was that you could not update the navigation maps for free. You needed to buy a DVD for €400 a pop for the BMW... I guess you can probably buy from "amazon" much cheaper & more modern versions will have OTA updates I guess. I was very happy to give back to BMW & get back into my Octavia. You sound like "performance" is more your interest though & I cant really comment on this much. The vRS TDi is more than quick enough for me & although not immensely exciting to drive it is very comfortable for cruising on the highway & munching through the miles.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year 2025 🍻

Start by changing the bulb(s). It is the most common reason. Xenons often start to flicker when they are about to go 'kaput'. Check youtube for guidance, it is pretty much the same than with older cars. Both xenon bulbs (left and right) have own ballasts and they are different than the DRL LED ballast.

Posting this here in case it helps anyone in the future. I have a 93,000 mile, 2014 Octavia 1.4TSI estate. I've owned it since it was 9 months only. Until very recently, it was running on the original battery (assuming it hadn't been changed in the 9 months before I had it...) The stop-start system had become quite sporadic in its operation. The display normally said "Power Consumption Too High". Then, seemingly completely unrelated, I started getting warnings about failures in the rear number plate bulbs. There was nothing wrong with the bulbs, and tapping the lights and/or opening/shutting the tailgate often "fixed" the problem - suggesting a dodgy connection somewhere. The, one morning I got a "battery low warning" flash up on starting the vehicle. I completed a 45 min drive, left the car for ~4 hours, then drove back again 45 minutes. On locking the car, the mirrors did not fold in. I thus booked in for a new battery the next day. On trying to start it the next day, the battery was completely flat. I got it jump-started, and the battery replaced. Since then, I have not had a single warning about the number plate bulb lights. They have worked flawlessly. Stop-start has also been far more available. If you're still reading... If your Octavia ever says "battery low" - it really means it. You may only have one start left before it dies... Consistent "Power Consumption too High" messages explaining why stop-start is unavailable are a much better indicator of a failing battery in my experience. I can only assume that I have a slightly high-resistance connection somewhere in the circuit to the number plate bulbs. If the overall system voltage was a little low before the battery change, would that explain why my error messages and non-working lights have now decided to fix themselves?

Actual manufacturer of battery is not critical information - EFB or AGM, capacity in AHs, and a minor change to the existing serial number sequence (to tell battery monitoring unit that the battery has been replaced) are all that is necessary.

Like everything else nowadays, nothing lasts. As I said before my van has original battery . 17 years old. Can anyone better that'?

Good idea, I'll look into that. 68% doesn't feel particularly 'poor'.

Why would you want them off? Auto lights are notorious for people driving around in poor visibility and no rear side lights. Personally I always code them to be on.

Okay - some references to assist; you can easily do this at home with somebody who has a VCDS system: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement This shows the technical changes that need to be done on VCDS. This shows how to do the change over on a Video. Enjoy