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Lovely sunset this evening and The Moon and Venus were bright in the sky ✨

I have got units back in the display. It was due to "menu_display_central_unit_master" not being activated. Thinking back I did not deactivate it but I did have a mishap last year in 5F when I hit the reset button. Some functions normalized after ignition off, but others did not. It also did not show up on the Autoscan as it is all in the Adaptations. menu_display_central_unit_master_after_disclaimer: not_activated menu_display_central_unit_master_standstill: not_activated menu_display_central_unit_master_over_threshold_high: not_activated -> activated menu_display_central_unit_master_clamp_15_off: not_activated menu_display_central_unit_master: not_activated -> activated

Thanks for the reply. I got the silicon grease today and installed it as per the instructions. Went on a brief ride out and the noise had gone with two of us in the car. Mine had got really bad and was doing it with just the driver in the car. It started off only doing it when there was a few people in the car. I had a feeling it might be the dampers after reading some posts about people changing them but I hadn’t realised about that bulletin. Fingers crossed it stays quiet as it was going to be sold imminently as a result.

3Q0 -> 2Q0 camera retrofit with all SWaPs and TravelAssist with KLR now work As a bonus, I installed a frameless mirror

2023 7-speed should be DQ381 (wet clutch) as far as I know, but could be DQ200 (7-speed dry clutch) according to wiki. Maybe not in Superb. Googling whether either of them have a filter is a yes. Unless there’s another 7-speed I’ve missed, it sounds as if Rainworth Skoda don’t know what they’re talking about. No great surprise when @numskull was told his camchained engine needed a cambelt change. Exactly the reason forums like this are goldmines of info. Like @Ootohere said; oil change is scheduled to be every 80k miles and the filter only changed every other (ie every 160k miles). To me that’s bonkers but they’ve obviously decided that’s all that’s needed as a compromise between lifetime and owner-maintenance costs. I have a DQ381 and I’ll likely do it every 40k and have the filter done every time. Personal choice but preventive maintenance pays dividends in my opinion.

So i'm sure each and every Superb MK3 and any other MQB platform car including Golf's, Passats and such have came across the following fault 1 Fault Found: 263425 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [009] - Internal System Fault Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear And the only solution is to replace the Air quality sensor, located in the plenum chamber. The part numbers for the superb went in the following order 5Q0907643B was the original up to 2016. Since then the part number has been revised with the letter at the end changing, going to C,D,F and then finally as of 2023, the newest part number is 5Q0907643E. The part has its own self diagnosis and is non servicable so its simply a case of removing, replacing and clearing the fault codes, but no one actually knows what the common issue is. Now onto the part itself - 5Q0907643D dated 05-06-2017: The air quality sensor also called AQS is fitted in the cabin air intake and detects pollution in the incoming air including emissions and pollen - It then feeds this back to the climatronic control module via the LINbus and in turn this automatically switches the air to recirculation. That is as simple as the process can be. The outside of the part consists of a completely sealed plastic casing, 3 pins (12V, ground, LINbus) and an air intake with a white membrane over it. The part needed to be cut open to access the internal circuit board which was done with a very small hacksaw. Inside we had a small double sided circuit board as pictured below The components on this circuit board are as follows - as well as what I could possibly test, has been tested. Various resistors - couldnt find a single one burnt out, okay Various capacitors - couldnt find a single one burnt out, okay 16F1938 micro controller - Unable to test but this is the main control unit for this component and if it was faulty, there is a good chance we wouldnt get the above fault code - instead no comms A voltage regulator - same diagnosis as above LINbus controller - same diagnosis as above, would not have any comms if faulty And then the 2 very odd things on the ends of the 'fingers' almost..... see below So on closer inspection you have these 2 very small black boxes, each with 4 connections I have no idea what these components are, but they seem to be some kind of optical sensor, but on an extremely tiny scale. I assume these are what pick up the particulates and tell the control unit there is a high pollution level - but this is just speculation. Now I done my best to get an up close picture of the sensors and their connections, but on my phone camera this was almost impossible, but this is the best I can do. Youll notice each of these components is isolated from the ground plane (light green part of the circuit board) and on each of the black boxes there are 4 very small gold dots on top. I have nothing to measure these with but a guess would be 0.1mm each. These are the connection points from the component to the circuit board. You will also notice that to connect the circuit board to the component is an absolutely TINY gold wire (can be seen on closest component bottom right connection). These are so much smaller than a human hair even, impossible to measure with any tools I have. Most of these tiny gold wires are snapped off at one or both ends! So for the top component - the top 2 wires are completely missing, the bottom 2 are still connected. The bottom component - the top 2 wires, one is detatched from the circuit board, the other is missing. The bottom left is not touching the circuit board, the right is connected only to the circuit board. So basically, these wires that are maybe a 10th of a human hair. Of the 8 connections, 2 are doing their job. And here lies the issue! These components and their connections are so fragile, being in an engine bay is enough to completely destroy them. Would be very interesting to see a newer revision and what has changed internally.

Back from a ski trip in our French Alps, I made a quick clean (Karcher only at the local car wash) to my Estate this morning, before removing the roof box. I took this pic, 'cause I find this black & white combo has a bit of star wars Storm troopers… 😁 Still 1200-ish km to drive before the 135000km overhaul. Plan is to : - Change engine oil + filter - Change fuel filter (every 45000km instead of 90000 as recommended) - Change Haldex oil and clean gauge (every 45000km too, since easier than the 3 years to remind for me. Also allows an earlier replacement due to my annual mileage). - Swap winter / summer wheels. Then it will need a deep inside and outside cleaning to be ready for sale...

I have the genuine ones now, sourced from Kopacek. Initially I had AliExpress versions, but they were shorter and not as wide, hence not coverage compared to the genuine ones. Kopacek have the genuine ones for an amazing price, which u won't find anywhere else - get those.

Cars driving fine, needs clutch changed soon, didn't slip lately but it can and will, plus release bearings been making noise since I got it. In typical me fashion I've gotten yet another project, making a post for it now infact.

Not a whole pile with this one, not driven much being winter and all, had it out for local cars and coffees, and took it out to carlingford a few weeks ago. Driving just about perfect, Little stretch of motorway and it happily kept up with traffic. Started chugging slightly as I got home so pulled the fuel filters, again. Replaced them of course, going fine since.

AFAIK, there is no DQ200 anymore on MY2023...🤔

Loads of the DC public chargers around the Worcester have had their charging wires cut, I think the figure must be several dozen. Perhaps we will see more sites with untethered chargers. I am quite happy to charge at 22kWs much of the time and use my own cable. The service stations seem to be OK. It seem the quieter sites, not 24 hour etc. They need better lighting, security etc.

It wouldn't pass an MOT with a split cv gaiter. So it either has or hasn't an MOT? How long ago was MOT and how long ago did you notice gaiter split?

Hello, welcome to the forum. You've not given much information here - and do not recognise model 'luna' but if the wipers are working on one side only, the fault will be a mechanical one in the wiper drive-train, between the two wiper spindles.

Hi, I've read here many recommended fixes for a dodgy unit, but I'd just like to make one (hopefully) helpful suggestion ....try a new car battery first, before replacing the unit. My unit frequently died, often for long periods, but would then work again for a while, before shutting down again. I was about to replace the unit (main dealer recommendation) in order to sell my car, but the battery (less than 2 tears old) was replaced first, and hey presto, the unit worked again, and has not acted up since. Someone posted before about Skodas being temperamental where electrics/batteries are concerned, and they are! It should be worth a try, and if it works, it's a cheap fix! Great forum, thanks for all the tips

Not really. The car had let me down a few times recently (flat battery) but the battery was less than 2 years old. I took it back to the motor factors where I bought it, and got them to charge it overnight and test it again. Whatever results they got, they weren't happy with it, so they kindly gave me a new one. Once fitted, the radio was fine again. Just thought I'd share that. Hopefully it might help someone else

Can't go wrong name-dropping @JR RS for all your Aussie advice and enthusiasm...

It's Mot time, and I'm fed up of the testers with their oily boots messing up my carpet, so this year I'm taking no chances. Carpet protector layer down, and I'll put the mat over the top.

I think febi do power steering hoses and pipes. Not sure about VRS but folks got them a few years back for there 1.9tdi. Part number I came up with is FEBI 186139 Alasdair

I've not changed the fluid in one of the EA211 16V 1.2TSI engines yet, I have done successfully on my other car using a draper coolant vacuum refill kit and a stupidly small compressor - and that worked okay, so I'm prepared for replacing the coolant in wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI "soonish". Annoyingly on my other car, which has an electric pump for the supercharger heat exchanger, there is no option in VCDS to demand that pump to run - as in a "service routine" although there might be in the "demanded functions" though I didn't look for it. That car does have a bleed point on the heater circuit and a couple of bleed points on the supercharger heat exchangers. I suspect that you can run the electric pump on the cars that have this 1.2TSI engine. Edit:- since I bought that Draper kit, many cheaper kits have started to become available via China, so they should work just as well at least for a DIYer.

I had similar problem on my sons MK1. Think air lock was at heater matrix as no heat. I kept squeezing top rad hoze until fluid in tank dropped. Topped up and repeated. Took a while to get air out. Not sure if it will work on MK3 Alasdair

Yes, there's just the two-way signal connector and the hefty output wire, but it is quite possible to not reconnect that 2-way, or the latch on it be broken so it doesn't stay properly mated. I'd imagine it's accessible enough to get at without major disassembly. Does battery light come on with ignition? That's the other wire in the 2-way.

LEDs take less current so are higher resistance not lower resistance.

I feel 27 but see a young 76 year old in the mirror.

Can't see on either of mine as they bend downwards at tips. 1.9tdi and 1.6tdi. Maybe its a valve of sorts that opens under pressure. Never seen one like that before. Give it a light push with a stick to see if its loose? Just read that the MK3 tdi vrs has a fake aand the MK3 TSI has twin? Not sure re MK2 Maybe at some point the wrong back box has been fitted? Alasdair

May be two seperate problems. Failed indicator stalk/switch and failing windows controller/motor in drivers door. The door motor is repairable if it the same fault as my sons. He has the same model of Fabia. Alasdair

Demonstrator vehicles are often fitted with optional packs, listed on a Card next to the car in the showroom. Also why reviewers always show RRP and price as tested in the stats. So it must be the intention to have them available to order

I had understood that DCC (therefore Driver Pack) is available on any 85. Otherwise, how could the Edition I drove have had it? At the moment I don’t see the Driver Pack available at all on the configurator but the sales guy said that will change soon (not that we should ever believe sales guys). I like the look of the red but I must admit the Timiano Green intrigues me.

I think the reported wear is not very accurately measured. The slight mismatch is probably within the limit of error in the measurement. Wait till they are really worn and I think you'll get a more accurate result. Of note, the rear pads on the landcruisers I used to run always wore about 3 times more than the fronts. They were smaller pads by a long shot and simply didn't have enough meat on them to last as long as the fronts

How do cars get to Randalstown? We live close to the A75 about 30 miles east of Stranraer and we see loads of transporters loaded with new cars heading for the Cairnryan/Belfast ferry. I think they collect them from North Shields. If yours is coming that route, I'll keep an eye out for it. 😂

Sorted. This is the correct driveshaft. It concertinas, pulls out in length from inner CV joint. The plastic thrower fits as said above. Flat to the outside into bearing facing towards wheel. Cheers

Honestly Briskodians... Can we give it a rest with these petty arguments and reports. Play nice or I'll have no choice but to lock the topic.

Powerflex received. The bottom section should definitely fit in the slot in the mount’s rubber; the top may need to be modified to fit as the cutouts have been altered in the revised mount. But given this thing is pretty soft and rubbery there’s hope it’s robust and adds a bit more firmness. Lastly, whether the bolt holder fits into the bolt recess now that the inside of the metal isn’t empty is the final challenge/hope. Ramps sourced to have a good look this week!

Ventured up to Edinburgh by train to pick up some vinyl. Just after the covers for framing and hanging. Anyone want some sleeveless records??🤣🤣 grabbed a couple of shots with the camera phone.

I’m a former detailer and have had plenty of conversations with guys who are specialist in leather seats. Essentially, not much of it is leather, it’s more Polyurethane (known as PU leather) which is built up of layers: a base material layer, a colour layer and a clearcoat. Basically, most automotive interior cleaners (properly diluted down if need be) will be fine with a microfibre cloth or leather brush on, and off with a microfibre cloth which helps to get into the pattern a little more. Best advice is to go to somewhere like Leather Repair Company or Colourlock and get a product from an actual dedicated leather company. Be gentle, nothing abrasive or harsh chemicals like All Purpose Cleaners. The clearcoat is designed with UV inhibitors to protect the colour and once this goes you can start to experience the classic fading and cracking. Armrest is the same. Most of all, do your steering wheel! Ideally with the brush to really get into the pattern. Steering wheels get dirty/oily pretty quickly. If it’s black leather, it shouldn’t be black and shiny, it should be charcoal and matt.

It's not adjusted correctly, you should see whats behind! Possible causes: Wife driving the car before you attending to her hair and makeup. Wife sitting in the rear seat 😁 As someone who had owned 30 + cars after 2 years of driving I never thought I would be where I am now hoping to keep the Yeti for my remaining days which hopefully will be a couple of decades and some.

"I would say the average owner age around here is 70". That's depressing - I now see 70 in my rear view mirror even though my wife says I behave otherwise. I'm thinking about being buried with my Yeti - like a Pharaoh with his favourite chariot or a Viking in his longship - although I don't know how the Co-op feels about such things

Not able to walk far currently, so was chauffeured in my own car! Lovely colourful skies on the way back

the manufacturer says that you don't change the filter ,only the oil for the dq381 But it is serviceable,you can find it as a spare part.I did

@SomeOfTheGear - it is possible to retrofit an additional USB data port in the storage under the armrest, however it's no easy task. it was available as a factory fit option in some markets, even on pre-facelift Superb. I contemplated doing, did all the research and figured all the bits and bobs needed - but i didn't end up doing it cause too much effort. Instead I went down the much easier route and got an AAWireless device (been flawless, no issues, and no lag), as well as converting my rear 12v port to a USB QC port. this way I can connect wirelessly and charge my phone if I need to. if u do want the actual additional USB port, then u will need a USB Hub, USB socket, and wiring. Part numbers:- 5G0035953C - USB HUB to 2 ports 3G0035643 - holder of the HUB 5G0035222E - MIB2 Carplay USB/AUX Port Audio Input with Socket Harness 8E0973754 - Connector for USB HUB The HUB itself is powered by a separate power supply, which u'll need to source/tap from somewhere. u'll need to remove the glovebox headunit so u can access behind it. u'll need to remove the centre console, plus centre arm storage area to fit the USB hub and additional socket. This is how it looks when fitted from factory... The wiring....... this is my setup in my Superb MY17. the AAWireless is connected to the existing USB port. Fits nicely as i can still close that lid. the 12v socket at the rear is now a dual quick charge USB ports. i've connected one wire to it and routed it in and up into the centre storage area. again, the rear compartment can b closed as the USB cable and socket are small/flat enough. the second QC port is free so the kids can charge their phone or tablet, if needed.

Oh I forgot to say I thought the original car was packed with gear and tech but the new one has even more. The Canton sound system sounded a little flat until I discovered the surround sound setting which wasn’t present in the 2017 Canton system. It is brilliant and really clear even at very high volumes with no distortion. The gear change on a column stalk takes a bit of getting used to. I keep reaching down to the centre where there is nothing in a vain attempt to engage reverse. Then I remember it is on the right hand stalk and then have to work out which way to turn it LOL. The one thing my wife and I noticed was it slows down before some junctions and roundabouts automatically when the predictive cruise control is engaged. Couldn’t work out what was going on until we looked at the dash and saw it “knows” such things are approaching and flags it up on the screen. A bit too “simply clever” if you ask me. You can override it though.

Of course not! Lookers told me I need a Cambelt change at 5 years on the 280 and was called a “w&>ker” when I said it has a cam chain not a belt. Anyway, you’ve come to the right place to get the correct answer. But I don’t have a clue! LOL! 😂

I have a Mk4.5 vRS in the UK, so feel able to comment. When your car arrives it should come with one tablet holder. I bought two (as have two kids) and I don't tend to trust the brochure, but car came with one so need to sell the other one). It also came with boot nets and those velcro stick down things for the boot. Also, the airbag in mine has the older style logo, but finished in matt rather than gloss. They might be phasing out the older style however. Good choice of car, it's lovely!

I did the camera install today, went with the Viofo A139 Pro 2 channel after all. Turns out the rear camera cable run was fairly easy after all. Up and running and works fine. Also fitted a screen protector to the infotainment screen, went on very easily with zero bubbles. It’s a matte finish so no reflections and amazingly resistant to finger marks so really pleased with that. Here are a few pics… Two more to follow.

@Hardcore @Breezy_Pete I'm also wondering if the ESC "fault" could be low voltage?

You're right about the MIL, shouldn't have been relevant because: "You need to inspect MIL fitted to diesel vehicles including hybrids with 4 or more wheels and first used on or after 1 July 2008." The 10 minute warning light is almost certainly either the replacement alternator wasn't compatible, the connector at the alt was not refitted, or was broken, or the DFM wire (the one that isn't blue) between alternator and ECU. If you let me know build date of car, or reg or VIN I can look up exact circuit info. Wheel arch liner removal will obviously be a good start in accessing the PAS pipes. Never got down and dirty with them myself though. Repair of what you have may be the best strategy, followed by trying to find some better condition ones from scrappies.

Many thanks to everyone who replied. Yes The pictures were easier to see larger, and they made more sense after seeing Ords Youtube video. Thank you from Stewart

2020 Monte Carlo in Rally Green with the DSG box, believed to be one of the last to arrive in the country

Pretty amazing that dealers can sell cars which they have zero ability to properly service. I’d stick with Winchester. Most decent dealers will do a while you wait service.

The Owner's Manual if read and referred to when appropriate can save a lot of time, hassle and cost and the need to consult any workshop manual but you do need to read the Owner's Manual (and that's not against any law as many men believe) to find out when it's appropriate to refer to which book. The WSM doesn't cover some of the stuff in the Owner's Manual and neither covers some stuff you find in other Owner's Manuals and WSMs, such is VW. Try the following link for WSM. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/