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Well today it departed and I have mixed feelings after having the car since 2018. Since having one of the first Octavias in the UK in 1996 I have been a Skoda fanboy. But today I have jumped ship to Hyundai and an Ioniq 5 EV ultimat with tech pack so get an interesting top down view and lots of bells and whistles. My Skoda is on the way to Kent for a temporary loan and after that will find it's way onto the second hand market. KK18MFU If you see it to buy it's a good one and bar a little rough on startup in cold weather it's been very good to drive and has served me well. I hope it finds a good second home and now to find the Hyundai version of Briskoda. Lot's to learn and get set up. I have enjoyed my time watching and learning from the forum. Thanks to everyone who has helped me understand things that I never knew. Cheers...

... and give it an "Italian Tune" i.e. drive it like you stole it!

'Calculated to cost £7,000" So the council is not DEMANDING £7,000 now are they! The company that was preparing for Full Fibre outside my house so digging up the pavements charge £1,800 to do the dropped kerb and that includes the Permit from the Council That might just be cheaper for many reasons, but it is far from £7,000. ............ Lambeth. So maybe £4,000 for Searches, Planning, Permits. Then the dropped kerb.

If you can’t get the ABS to cycle you don’t need larger discs - you need to get the system repaired. If it’s not air in the system or contamination then next best guess is the servo. FYI - increased pad/disc surface area won’t make you stop any faster. They might give you a bit more bite, but going from 288mm to 312mm is pointless, and 340mm won’t be possible. As said before, all you’d be gaining is heat resistance - not an issue in a Yeti. Certainly, I wouldn’t be driving it all that far until you have it sorted.

I will update, with what was done etc 🙂

I usually get shot down in flames if I start mentioning additives in fuel; so best play safe and stick with Super Unleaded 97 RON for now.

Thanks for the replys. I did a piston soak for 24 houres with some local "Internal engine cleaner that removes combustion residues, soot, deposits, water and glycol." A lot of white smoke and now my exhaust was like a chimney! Run ruff for first 5 km but now all back to normal. So hope it have helped, need to drive for some weeks before i can conclude something.

Flick down to change to sport, flick down again to change back to drive (normal).

With the selector in D, flicking the selector down will put it into sports mode, flicking it back up will put it back into whatever mode had been selected. For manual shifting, in the D position, move the selector to the left and then flick the selector down to downshift or up to upshift. The middle display on the instrument panel will tell you which gear you're in. Move the selector to the right to go back to auto mode.

Batteries are much cheaper but I think they would need Skoda or SEAT/ CUPRA or one of their Eastern European factories to make it to get close to that price.

You will love it, enjoy and well wear!

Enjoy, mine is at the dealership but he was on holidays till Monday so fingers crossed next week now.

I would have thought adaptive cruise would be standard in this day and age. I’ve been surprised how relaxing it is to have on when the traffic flow keeps changing speed on a motorway. I wouldn’t have thought DC would be needed on a non RS due to the softer suspension tuning of the non sporty models and higher ride height (and smaller wheels). I just test drove the old mark 4 and felt the new bigger screen in the 4.5 is much better but I can see how it wouldn’t be a deal breaker, the most important thing is the new software and faster hardware that the 4.5 brings. Side assist I also think should be standard fitment on all new vehicles. I have the electric RS seats primarily because they really lift the RS cabin ambience but also because it gives dipping offside mirror in reverse and memory so I can set it up and my wife won’t mess with my settings :)

My Elroq left Germany on the 5th so i presume it is already at the UK port now? Although not sure how long the ferry crossing is on these big car ferries.

Lulworth Cove this afternoon - a tad fresh and breezy: Gaz

Only you will know if the pedal is spongy and there is air in the system, very difficult to decide from your comments, if there isn't then you have glazed discs and pads which has happened regularly to me on modern vehicles since I stopped driving like the road was my personal racetrack and since asbestos was removed from the pad formulation. I can normally tell by the disc scoring or by kickback, other times I become aware when I do have to do an emergency stop, the solution is not for the faint hearted, it involves abusing the brake system doing repeated full on emergency stops from 80+ mph downhill (away from traffic bien sur) until the brakes are smoking and the pedal is spongy, then driving without breaking to initially cool them and leaving it overnight to properly cool without applying the handbrake. I bought bigger discs and calipers from a Golf GTi because I have remapped the car and tow trailers more than double the weight limit albeit only locally now, I found out the hard way that my struts being 50mm dia body were too small for the GTi steering knuckles, adaptors are available, I was going to fabricate mine. Someone spoke of unsprung weight, thats what put me off, the box with the brake discs and calipers is so heavy that I can barely lift it, the brakes work very well in standard form (if maintained as above) but do lack feel somewhat, I no longer even notice that.

The printed manual, although not 100%, is 'better' than the online manual which has a terrible user interface -everything is chopped up and you can't se the overall picture.. I've tried downloading a PDF version In my manual its on the top left of Page 65. This page is in the Virtual Cockpit Section - I would have expected there to be something in the Navigation Section to explain how to get the List of Destinations displayed in the centre section of the dash where the map is displayed. The button cirled in red cycles through the variopus things that can be displayed (Radio, Assist Systems, Navigation, Driving Data etc) some of these have options that can be selected and I'm sure originally on Navigation there was a check box for Dsiplay Map in Cluster, I don't get that anymore. The one time I saw List of Destinations it was a Check Box within Navigation. So frustrating..

This car would be worth no more that about £5-6k so it wouldn't make sense spending that much on it. If I can't repair the engine of find an economical replacement I'll get my money back selling it as a non-runner, which is how I've bought it anyway!

Update, in case the information's useful to anyone else. I collected the car this afternoon. After much sitting in the boot while spraying it with water outside they spotted a trickle from the grommet at the top right near the hinge, presumably where wires would go if it were a LH drive. They sealed this, drenched the car again and found no trickle. So hopefully that's it. They've carefully explained this is a temporary repair, and if it works they'll get the proper part and seal it in neatly. And they're happy for me to continue monitoring next time it rains. So we're hopeful we get a dry car, and end up writing a nice review for the Bristol St Honda dealers here who sold it to us. Thanks again for all the suggestions made along the way.

Radio X yes hits no

I just downloaded the zip file no entering of part number

I just checked what I could see, oil, water etc, belts general conditions if it starts, how it starts, drives etc, just got back now from driving it for 2 hours straight no issues at all, fuel consumption is the same, revs stable no jumping, sounds good running, no smells or unusual sounds.

Now found a home for them, Will post an image when they’re framed.

No, still here - just mulling over options at the moment - given that it had brand new brake pads and discs (Brembo) last August, with all sliders cleaned and greased (with silicone grease) and the brake fluid changed and brakes bled (twice) , I'm still wondering why the performance is so poor. I will be doing some further investigation once the weather gets a little more conducive to working outside. Thanks for all in the input so far, and yes I am fully aware mods need to be declared to the insurance co's, given I built a Meriva with an Astra VXR engine, and have a Nova with a C20LET conversion. Cheers all Jonathan

Whilst you are there, can you confirm whether the silica teabag is removed or not? If you have a single skinned coolant header tank, remove it as it will split on you otherwise. Skoda recommend coolant change every 5 years, so I recommend you get this done.

He is a Rodney. Simples. Nothing on Facebook. Quite a cover up. M Guy should maybe give the cash money from this little vid to some charity.

Sadly, the car fire in the overnight incident report is NOT the one in the video, how do I know this, simple, firstly the time stamp on the video is just before midnight, the report states it was at 7.55pm, and they left the scene at 8.10pm, impossible. It also states the car was deliberately set on fire and yet the video does not show any sign of a flame until after the explosion, any flames would have been highly visible at night, even if masked by the car, the flickering light from them would have been very visible reflecting off the surroundings. Prior to the explosion, it was white smoke, a tell-tale sign of the battery malfunctioning and venting gases. Secondly, looking at the street Atkins Road on Google Earth clearly shows all the houses along the entire road have drives at the front of their houses and cars parked on them, unlike the houses in the video which do not. So clearly there is something wrong here, the official report does not reflect that fire, whether that is because the event was covered up, or the information sent to M Guy was not correct, or it was in another town, whatever, you cannot say that M Guy is misrepresenting the truth, the fire did happen and that car was not set on fire, it started that fire all by itself. As to M Guy looking after us from a different time zone, far, far away, is laughable, he is not looking after us, he is just highlighting what he considers to a very dangerous side effect of electric cars, and he can only do that after the event, to be looking after us, he would to forewarn us that the car was about to self combust.😉

'This story has not been reported as far as i can see.' Does he mean in UK papers / media? Mercedes will know if this is in the UK or elsewhere, date stamp. He was sent the Video, did the person not send to the press? There are Fire and Emergency Services that will be aware, the owners, the insurers, the council / local authority. He is a bundle of joy. Great he is looking after us all from far far away in another time zone.

Are the British media now suppressing any negative EV stories or what? This Mercedes EQ car parked in a Sheffield street, which didn't appear to be on charge either, but within seconds the car had suffered total thermal runaway, several explosions burning debris being shot out starting other fires. Does anyone know if this has been reported anywhere, if so, any links to the news? Exclusive: Terrifying moment ANOTHER Mercedes EV spontaneously EXPLODES | MGUY Australia

OP gone into hiding? If the mods to the rear have been done, which seems the case, then he has already upset the brake balance of the car potentially making it at the least unpredictable and at worst dangerous. Also the insurer should be notified of such modifications, preferably before implementing. They will not be happy if their is an accident and this comes to light - as it surely will. It certainly sounds like there is a fundamental problem with the braking system and poorly thought through modifications can never be a correct response to that.

It is a bit disappointing that Haynes don't make a paper/book version....I wanted to remove rear bumper as little bit of rust round by filler cap starting (common fault) I have a 13 plate.....and absolutely nothing about in Haynes auto fix.....nor seat removal,,door card removal etc....as want to change front speakers....and give inside a full wet vac when weather is better.....get most of tips and advice thru YouTube..and this site....which I've just joined...Great little Skoda community here 👍👌🤗

This is what I have.

Great, there goes my hard earned cash again...

If I remember/find out I will post on here!

Hello, welcome to the forum. At 2017, your Yeti would have smart alternator and automatic idle stop (Stop/Start) - does that operate correctly - do you normally use it? At 12.6 volts, your battery is approx. 85% charged - which is a little above the level that the smart alternator limits its output to allow for energy recuperation. Try leaving the headlights on for about 10 minutes with the engine off, then check the battery terminal voltage with the engine idling. It is possible that the voltage sensor wire to the alternator has a bad connection - this appears to be relatively common problem reported on the forum.

Not sure if the wide 19in rim fits as it is very wide / high when horizontal, but you can certainly fit even larger diameter 205/55/R17 wheel (Mk3 Scout size) into the spare wheel well. I am driving on 17in "Crystal" 6jx17 alloys in this size and the spare is the same, fits just fine. Mind you, the "Crystal" alloys are only 6in wide ("winter" alloys for the Mk3 vRS), the 19in alloys are I think 7.5in wide and so 1.5in higher in the boot. But you could put a large piece of thick felt cut out around the spare wheel well to match any difference in height above the boot floor.

I do NOT recommend Chinese aftermarket units. What is your current unit and what do you miss in it?

4 years down, both as a member and an owner of this wee car.

Nope - all the buttons use the same wiring 👍 There are various versions. Your originals are likely one of these: 3V0919719A (No DSG paddles) 3V0919719B (DSG paddles) 3V0919719C (No DSG paddles + heated wheel) 3V0919719D (DSG paddles + heated wheel) The equivalent versions with a view button instead of phone are: 3V0919719E (No DSG paddles) 3V0919719F (DSG paddles) 3V0919719G (No DSG paddles + heated wheel) 3V0919719H (DSG paddles + heated wheel) As I have a manual car without a heated steering wheel, I went from 3V0919719A to 3V0919719E. No need to touch the clock spring or even recode, plug and play!

A bit more on this... There is plenty of online discussion about cars' foot-pedal height and the pedal catching on shoes (example here) https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1781198 The last car I owned that had adjustable foot-pedals was a 1970's Reliant Scimitar GTE, but the adjustment then was horizontal not vertical. I have dinky little feet (UK size 7) and I don't wear shoes with significant 'welts' (nor wellingtons or work boots) when driving. If a car has manual transmission (and its technology won't throw a fit) I will choose to 'heel-and-toe' when downshifting if I can, but for me to do this requires the brake and accelerator pedals to be quite close together and positioned at roughly the same horizontal level and height. In the past I've fitted a wider/deeper plate to the top of the accelerator or brake pedal, but heel-and-toeing is realistically a non-starter with most modern cars as the accelerator and brake pedals are at very different heights and - equally important - braking performance is non-linear. When I bought a manual-gearbox Skoda Roomster in 2009 I immediately realised that heel-and-toeing was out and I've now come to terms with this. As car's pedals tend to be too high for my liking, I just add some thick extra car mats to bring the floor level up rather than attempt to adapt the pedals themselves to try to lower them. Obviously doing this has potential safety risks, so I glue/tape the extra mats down so they cannot move about in the foot-well.

Just ensure seat belt buckles etc are trapped underneath

Sometimes on startup the ABS and traction control lights do come on immediately, this is generally when the car is wet and it will normally resolve itself once dry. It sounds like moisture has perhaps got into ABS sensor connector or broken wire . I would scan or get car scanned to narrow down which sensor is at fault. Visually check wiring etc as well. Alasdair

Yes a short drive following a left to right full lock has cleared the warning lights, thanks everyone for your help.

Despite the modern ICE being much more complicated than the old carb and points system, consideration should be given to the fact that the modern engine is cleaner, more economical and more powerful than in the past. Not a lot of consolation, but many of the problems with the modern ICE will be from the myriad of sensors required for it to run correctly. P.S. My wife's Fabia (1.0TSI 110PS) currently has a very similar problem - apart from the rough running - DTC code thrown is P003A. A reliable OBD11 code reader is very affordable and perhaps should be considered to be an essential accessory nowadays.

Buy the ones from Skoda

Got under the car to chuck some new bits on. First is a set of brackets which tighten up the propshaft bearing alignment. The original bolts go into slots rather than exact holes which allows for some movement to, argue RacingLine, ease production-line assembly but results in unnecessary stresses in the prop, bushes and bearings. I’m no engineer and while it no doubt doesn’t make much difference to the majority of cars, if driven harder, more exact alignment sounds like a worthwhile exercise to me. And for the cost of a takeaway and 4 13mm bolts: easy. Next was the final chapter to my Dogbone insert saga - a rogue OE component change for one of very limited engine codes meant the classic inserts wouldn’t fit. Powerflex’s versions are only partially affect by the changes so I could trim it down and utilise it. Can feel a tiny more of a sensation when idling but otherwise, really not much to report. I did note that they come in 4 colours for different stiffness - red (for diesels) -> yellow(for petrols) -> purple(for harder driving petrols, track diesels) -> black (track and racing). Being yellow, it’s pretty soft and just its presence in the mount is enough to reduce movement.

Old and new wheels together in subtle silver

I also got the brand spanking new Neuspeed rse-11R colour swapped from black to silver (flow formed and sooooo light weight) all shod in Michelin ps5's and coated in the same 10 year 10 H hardness coating as the car itself

The old girl @project175kplus had a visit to @CCvaletinguk for a fresh coating from Performance People yeah it cost a lot but meh

Clean MOT sheet for this one. Not bad considering it's been abused. Staring down the barrel of 100,000 miles now, and in the best shape I think it has been in for a long time.