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After being awake from 3:30am and failing to spot the Lunar Eclipse I was driving along at 18:30 and there was a Red Moon! Unfortunately didn't have my camera with me so just a phone 🤳

Loose battery terminal. Flat battery

Many thanks for your replies. The breakdown transporter guy came from 20 kms away within the hour guaranteed by my insurance company (Direct Assurance). He was able to start the car with a hefty jump starter unit. I then drove it 5 kms to the garage that fitted the battery in January. They parked it up inside the garage, switched off the ignition, then tried to restart it, and... no go. So, the car is at the garage over the weekend and will be fixed on Monday. I'm so glad I had that zero kms breakdown option on my insurance policy!

That battery tester is a good tool to have for anyone running a car. Just hook it up and it'll give you a reading. For an £18 spend it's good to know if the battery just needs charging or replacing. Of course going to any garage, dealership or even Halfords they may just say, new battery mate when it doesn't need one and please handover £xx for a diagnosis. I just think of the time a friend went to a garage a few years ago, he had a noise from the engine, you need an engine swap mate, we can do you one for £xxxx. All it needed was an aux belt tensioner replacing.

thanks yeah ı sorted out the problem ı still dont know the cause but the problem was caused by a broken gear fork as ı said ı dont know the cause but ı will post some pictures here as soon as ı can

Another shout out to Pete. I took my Roomster into my local garage thinking it was the wiring loom but he said it was the motor and Skoda stopped selling the part last year. Came across this forum and messaged Pete. Quick as a flash, he posted a fixed one to me. Took the door card off using a Youtube video, replaced the motor, worked straightaway, posted the old one back. Top marks, saved me a load of chew and a load of cash. Thanks Pete.

Well, Halfords have said there is no problem with the battery and it's currently is as it should be according to their voltage meter. I'm going to check it again in the morning though after an evening of not being used and see how it goes. Interestingly though, I did a factory reset today and since then, the stop start has worked each and every time I've stopped, which it has never done before. Maybe when it was in the dealers they did some sort of software reset / code update and now after a factory reset on the infotainment screen it's picked up something that has allowed the car to correct read everything. I did forget to photograph the battery though today, so I'll ensure I do that tomorrow and post the image here.

Thank you for such a prompt reply! I will get a video of the mount in the morning and share it here.

Not all dealer service techs are born equal. I too have had no issues with my dealer. Changing to another product won't guarantee a better car or dealer service, so better keep your Basil branch handy for the future, just in case...😜

I guess we can each only speak from personal experience - mine is exactly the opposite. I have a high level of confidence in the dealer I use and a very good rapport with the reception team, Service Manager and the lead technician.

Found them

Try some 5w30 oil or ATF rather than plusgas and some heat. I find plusgas/wd40 tends to evaporate when its heated. Alasdair

Success! Those undid

"However I'm not one for boys toys I don't even own an electric screw driver though sometime now with my weak muscles, soft skin, and creaking bones I sometimes wish I had, then I see some simple work done with them badly and glad again I don't have one" I've just invested in a new cordless drill and separate driver. My old cordless drill the battery died (back to batteries again😁) and replacements unavailable. I dumped it and replaced it with both the drill and driver from those middle of Lidl specials. Must say after building a raised bed (garden) numerous screws and just completed some shelving half the length of the garage. I have around 10 screws left of a box of 100 building that, the cordless driver came into it's own along with the drill of course. Lidl, tools perfect for the DIY man, that's me. I'll probably have a rest now for a few weeks, bones are certainly aching.😁

Yeah I’ll probably take it to someone with ODIS to fix Could also be this copy of VCDS not sure if its original @nta16 The vis4vag.com does contain correct procedures, Coding information i just thought it would store a fault code for incorrect vin/long code

If it was heavy and the only change was parts, it's likely something is incorrectly fitted... It's not advised to reset a module as there is a good chance it'll wipe config data which will need ODIS to replace. This might be part of your issue but hopefully not. Another VCDS user had similar fault codes and an independent with ODIS fixed it within minutes: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/31747/ Still, I'd be looking at which basic settings are shown in both the ABS and steering assist modules. You might need to do more than one thing to both initialise then calibrate the steering angle sensor. You can then move on to the end stops. Random example from online:

Certainly would argue about some dodgy people who work in the motor trade ripping others off, I've plenty of experience of that. It's a matter of need and priority and space or want or interest for many, some would prefer to carry a jump-starter pack I prefer prevention over cure and always changed any suspect battery on a car new to me but can generally judge by car use and multimeter readings a generally state of a battery in any car I have not because I know much about anything just decades of experience of running cars many of them 20-50 years old, as well as modern and even brand new cars in the past and experience of dealing with neighbours' cars and car batteries over decades. If you and others see value in having a battery tester and promote it that's great I think the interpretation of the figures some testers may give could leave to a false negative need for battery replacement, perhaps the one you have is different. I've successfully revived a couple of old "dead" batteries that taking the readings off his Ring charger battery tester suggested wouldn't be worth the effort. I must say this there for a 2005 GM Vauxhall Astra diesel van not a more modern VW product with start/stop and VW German complex computer systems and programming. However I'm not one for boys toys I don't even own an electric screw driver though sometime now with my weak muscles, soft skin, and creaking bones I sometimes wish I had, then I see some simple work done with them badly and glad again I don't have one. I'm not a Luddite just disappointed in the working and quality of some stuff that been about for decades and has gone backwards and/or down in quality or new stuff that just isn't reliable enough or is trusted too much and not checked if it's correct or needs further interpretation or diagnosis from it, and we all know computers aren't always right or correct or accurate. (same as a selection of digital multimeters though 😁).

One thing you don't mention are the two anti-roll bar rubber bushes. You could try dousing these with plastic and rubber lubricant spray. Better still, dismantle, lubricate and reassemble. When you brake or accelerate, the nearside and offside front suspension moves in unison, so the bar does not twist along its length but it does rotate slightly in the bushes.

Funny you should say this. In about 10 days time I am trading in my iV for a new fully EV (Not VAG!). This was my third and last Octavia and by a long way the worst of the lot. When I arrive at the dealer to pick up the new car I am going to take the Octavia round the back and give it a damned good BasilFawlty-style thrashing.

After reading Pete's post I made contact and arranged for a replacement to be sent to me. He posted it yesterday afternoon, 16:22, and it turned up 10:50 this morning! Will send the faulty one back once swapped out. Great service. Many thanks Pete. 👍

Have you done the obvious? Check the steering angle output is plausible (0 in the middle and changes as you move the wheel) Steering angle sensor basic settings (either in ABS or Steering) Moved the wheel full left, then right, then center In future, just post a full autoscan using copy and paste rather than pictures. It will give a fuller story and is easier to read 🙂

Its wrote in marker pen on the unit under the bonnet

Hi, welcome. Sorry your post seems to have been missed. I would guess at the gear linkage possibly being at fault but others would know better. Hopefully my post will help highlight your thread now. Perhaps you have it sorted now in which case if you wanted to you for future viewers you could post what it was and how it was sorted. Cheers.

Just buy a battery tester, something like in the link below. I bought the exact one, it tells me if the battery just needs a charge or it's gone bad. Also tells me the charge rate, full instructions to use with it of course. I bought it when I had an MX-5 laid up over winter in the garage, battery on that had gone, wouldn't hold a charge but started the car. That little gizmo told me all I needed to know. Wish I had it when I had my SEAT, the battery went bad but again it started the car ok. But the dash lights used to light up telling me all sorts of stuff was faulty, like traction control, throttle position sensor etc. I've got a decent local garage and they immediately pointed to the battery at fault. It was tested and confirmed on its way out. That was a stop/start car/battery so a new one fitted, codes cleared and no more problems. It's also worth investigating in a battery trickle charger, I just use one from Lidl, cheap enough (got an older one from Aldi too) both do the job if you think your battery needs a boost say in winter. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372436652444?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vrAwd99DT4i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=PjrX0wOKTfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thinking back to when I did the thermostat and pump. There is enough slack in the system to push the belt off the teeth in of the pump pulley and refit without removing anything, That's what I did. So it is not strongly tensioned. But not super slack either..

I had no difficulties until quite recently and, even after the problems occurred, I could usually get round them by going into hand-to-hand combat with the Skoda Owner's Manual site. Come this morning, everything was 100% back to normal for a while, but similar issues are now occurring again. I'll see what happens on the library system....

Hit the send button before I saw the image. Klement is not for sale or adoption.

London ULEZ 1 year report by GLA, methodology reviewed by an independent advisory group: London City HallLondon-wide Ultra Low Emission Zone One Year ReportIn this report, we evaluate the impacts of the ULEZ and the LEZ schemes, focusing on one year following the London-wide ULEZ expansion.

Given you had a new battery fitted in January that would be the first area of suspicion, very unlikely to be the battery itself more likely fitting or incorrect coding but even with that I'd expect longer out of the battery but that would depend on your driving and use of electrics in/on the car. Other than computer, electronics or electrics the alternator is best checked for full function, that it was fully charging, or at least trying to, the new (and previous) battery. If it's not, and even if it is, a full scan tool report is needed with an appropriate VW scan tool that has a program for your model and year (or VIN) and that the vehicle program is fully updated on the scan tool before it's connected to your car and the scan tool and car batteries are in a reasonable state of charge. Without as mention you can get spurious scan tool readings and results. Testing a battery and alternator can be with scan tool, dedicated battery tester or old school meter as the battery is so new and problems so pronounced the results should show obvious results of how to proceed. See if you still need to be concerned about the fob after the car issue(s) is/are sorted, there can be a few easy fixes to those issues sometimes.

I checked out the 245 prices here and you're right they are way cheaper here than 225 and 235 tyres so thanks again for the tip. I think I'll go for 245/45/18's on 8's.

No, Component Protection will need to be removed by a dealer or an independent with online access to the Skoda servers.

I've no idea what Halfords do or what tool use for their free battery checks, you need to check state of charge and state of health but these figures by themselves don't tell the full story and like an MoT (whether passed or not) relates only to that one point of time and conditions. Halfords will offer this free service because they sell batteries, their battery are good, whether under their own label or not but generally are higher priced and they have a different system of battery numbering than other places and I'm not sure about their fitment database as they are more car/pushbike/other generalised. As with all companies some of the people there are very good (if allowed to be by their bosses or the company) but some aren't and/or aren't given enough (any?) training. So if I've got it right, 2019 Kamiq petrol, manual, SE-L (so more standard electric bits fitted and/or activated by VW, then if you list the electric driver "aids" and "assists", standard fitting and extras that might have been added you'll get an idea of how long the list is of possibly electric use by the driver that the battery and alternator have to power. These two items are very related if one isn't in good condition then the other has to work harder so both wear more, though of course the wear on alternator is relative and doesn't mean it should play up until many years of use (decades with the better Japanese cars and alternators, or at least it used to be smaller batteries and smaller and more efficient alternators, the Germans like lots of weight to their vehicles). ETA: Good luck, let us know how you get on with the free Halfords battery check and if you can post a photo of the battery with label info I and other may be able to advise you on that and a replacement if required - and if you can't get it out of the Dealership if appropriate, I'm not always against Dealerships as in a previous life I dealt with the general public for decades so I can see good and not so good or bad in both sides (and before anyone thinks different I don't think you're not so good or bad, not by anything you have posted in this thread and that's all I know of you).

That is going to be a VERY dead battery causing all kinds of errors on the CANBUS network. Do a CCA test on the battery. Replace if its 20% below capacity.

Too true. Plus although I'm not a fan of Stop/Start and VW's us for excuse of it originally I do think it has a place and good use for many, if you're sitting a reasonable time in a queue with the engine running often you could be wasting fuel and putting even more emissions into the air. I meant to put as you've not had the car long and you're not the original owner of the car you might have taken on the battery use, abuse or neglect of the previous owner(s) and not contributed so or too much yourself, another thing to point out to the Dealership. Presumably they check (or pretend or say they do) check the state of charge and health of the battery when they get the car in to sell and/or before selling or handing over to their customer, if so they will have a record of that (or made up). Presumably you paid extra for the car as it was Dealership checked, always point that out. If you feel they are brushing you off with this then they very well might be, if you can don't let them get away with this, you've already had to return the car to them for issues, these may be understandable as the car is used but it may just have been laziness or worse on the part of the Dealership (from my many bad experiences with the English motor trade). These Dealerships are mainly owned by a few companies and people regardless of the name of company on the signs and websites so hold too much retail power, plus they own even the website companies and car auctions.

Thanks for the detailed reply above, much appreciated and lots to digest. Ive just booked myself onto a free battery check at Halfords for later today, so at least I can get an "official" external review, then I'll leave the multimeter test till tomorrow morning. Good point you raised about why they did not charge it overnight as they had it for 2 days dut to looking at a couple of other issues (hindsight and all that eh!). They initially said to me about having too much plugged in / using aircon (never turned it on - it's winter!) / using electric seat heaters (not an option on my car), so im already primed for them to not want to sort this. I know most people will say they hate Stop/Start but for me it's the principle of I've paid for these features, they should work.

@Giannis20 Thank you for your reply so if i understand it right in the front usb connector on pin3 i will find a blue/gray cable i need to tap in to and bring it back to my rear usb connector on pin 3 for the lights to work

Our 2016 L&K 280 has ventilated seats at the front, AC cooled glove box and centre console, remote release rear seats and a TV tuner. It’s now covered 51k and has been absolutely reliable with the exception of the NSR wheel speed sensor failing three years ago, a split in the AC condenser, the usual water pump failure and a new battery which I needed two years ago. Servicing costs are nuts due to the complexity of the 4X4 system, but I really don’t care as I have no intention of parting with the car. It’s the most comfortable car I have owned, now the quietest car I’ve owned and by far and away, the fastest car I’ve ever owned or had as an allocated company car.. and I’ve had Escort, Sierra and Granada Cosworths, Fiat Coupe Turbos, Nissan 200SX and ‘00’s of other so-called high performance cars. I really do think the 280/272 Superb will become collector Q cars in the true sense of the moniker, especially given the insane levels of tune the EA888 engines can achieve. But even with a stock vehicle, the acceleration, handling and grip are excellent for “normal” drivers. I love it! 👍🏻

I’d give Apple Music a try too as the audio quality is higher than Spotify

its just sooooooooo good and acid resistant for the bird poop life 🦅💩

love a bead shot thanks to @performancepeople products ❤️

Yeah mine has this issue too. Worse when its been raining

Oh, best to not look at this thread over the next year then! If it just an anti-rattle clip, then I'll leave it for now. The pads are sacrificial, as all the brakes need overhauling in general, and I'll probably just ditch all the calipers once I've done what I have planned in mind.

did change mine just now, looks much better IMHO.

I think that's a ballast unit on the rear so HID. I've only done halogen H7 so I'll let someone else reply.

Another 2 years and a total of more than 50K miles on the new clutch and all is still well.

If you can, pump the pistons out quite far, use a block of wood or the two old brake pads to stop it coming out too far, then peel back the boot and have a look to see if there's any corrosion. Using some emery cloth of about 120 grit and some light oil, clean the corrosion off. Clean up the piston with a bit more of the oil and a clean rag then get some silicone or red rubber grease and smear it thinly over the piston before winding it back in. This should get you mobile again if you need the car before you get the calipers. Although you've probably got them already by now.