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A couple from yesterday's brief walk. One of those Drakes is going to be dissapointed as there can be only one ⚔️⚡

Cedar Avenue (@Clumber Park) is beginning to Bloom 🌼 Interesting use of REBAR in the stumpery!

A few more from today...............................

I tried watching the video but could not stomach the guys voice and manner, the one doing the narration (hijacking someone elses content) was OK. I take my hat off to those of you who can sit through 11 minutes of the hyperactivity.

I think I may have solved this, I jacked the car up losened the bolts on the rubber bushes. Then I placed a second jack under the ball joint area and jacked the suspension up to simulate the car resting on it wheels. the rubber bush turned through about 1/4 turn and then I tightened the bolts tightened. All of this in line with Skodas recommended practice. Looks as if the garage tighten up the bolts with the full weight of the suspension on the bushes. Therefore appling to much twist on the bashes when the car was on its wheels. School boy error.

Whatever's buckled your wheel (large pot hole, hitting a kerb, having the wheel hit whilst parked at angle etc etc) has possibly bent a track rod. No amount of wheel balancing, pressure fettling etc will fix it if it's the case. The wheel alignment has likely 'fixed' them all to track true, just no longer true to the steering wheel being centered. I'd ask a friendly garage to get it on the ramps and have a look, should only cost a packet of decent biscuits.

In the expert chap's videos I put a link to it confirms the 0w-(IIRC) 20 oils are high quality and give very good protection but the oil isn't just the grade numbers it also has to be suitable for use as used. I do not think you should put your complete trust in VW designers and engineers as they are humans and so make mistakes and they are also employed in their profession by VW who are a company that is a car manufacturer whose products are not faultless and the faults and mistakes are not always admitted to. That is not to say they can't recommend the correct oil for their engines but fully correct to what measurement for who's benefit overall. Shell's idea of using waste product should be applauded and it can be used to make a very good or excellent engine oil but as with all oils there is more to it than the base oil. -https://blog.amsoil.com/is-motor-oil-made-from-natural-gas-better/ Again that is not to say that Shell Helix Ultra isn't a good or very good or excellent oil. VW seem to be making it a lot more difficult to establish what should be a clear cut answer, if some of their engines they recommend to use 0w-20 oil but others not then that information should be vey clear and widely made available. Is the case VW want you to use 0w-20 or that it is best to use 0w-20 and best for who and when and for how long, is there an absolute need that 0w-20 must be used, none of that has been made clear to me but I can be a bit slow mentally - and yes I am cynical with VW given their past and how I have found the quality of my wife's 2015 VWŠkoda especially some of the parts quality. The German car marques generally have been able to rely on an outdated believe in "German engineering quality" being high when that relates just about generally to the last century. I don't understand the worry about very small increases in full economy when most cars over here generally are mostly driven for short distances at lower speeds (not needing and wasting the then well overpowered engine power), all mostly with only the driver or one passenger in a modern heavy (particularly VWs) with oversized wheels and tyres. But I suppose any saving is better than none. Be good to know the outcome to this 0w-20 though, keep going and letting us know. 👍

There is a little cubby by the drivers right knee (right hand drive or opposite lhd)

Not strictly photo’s, some album covers I had framed for the new hallway. Going on a plaster coloured wall with black and white chequer floor, so chosen more for the colours the colours than anything else. A remastered camera phone shot of Edinburgh Castle, used a bit of AI to tidy up the pavement area.

Personally: Mk3. The interior isn’t dated, so as new as the mk4 is, it’s a solution looking for a problem. Mk4 driver aids: The 3 already has self park, blind spot, ACC, lane assist, fatigue detection and brake assist for parking. Not a bad list. What does the mk4 have in addition out of interest? Also plenty of stuff has been tried and tested on the 3 so you can solve/improve all sorts. I am, however, woefully unindependent in my opinion…

+++ 2025.04.18 +++ -> next 2025/26 cross compatible on: Škoda Amundsen (MIB2), Seat Navi (MIB2), VW Discover Media2 (MIB2), Audi MMI ?-?-? (MIB2), MAN Media VAN Navigation started and tested by @Tell -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522199-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20242025/?do=findComment&comment=5899105 # ECE AS(A1) 2025 15.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2310_V20.7z Files inside: 2023.10.13 Downloadable: 2024.11.22 Published: 2024.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU_AS_202448.zip Files inside: 2023.10.13 Downloadable: 2024.11.27 Published: 2024.12.0? # ECE 1 2025 6.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2310_V20.7z Files inside: 2023.10.13 Downloadable: 2024.11.22 Published: 2024.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU1_202448.zip Files inside: 2023.10.13 Downloadable: 2024.11.27 Published: 2024.12.0? # ECE 2 2025 6.7 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU2_202448.zip # ECE 3 2025 5.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU3_202448.zip # ECE 4 2025 8.8 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU-DL1_202448.zip # ECE 5 2025 8.9 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU-DL2_202448.zip # ECE 6 2025 8.3 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU-DL3_202448.zip # ECE 7 2025 7.2 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_EU-DL4_202448.zip # ROW 1 2025 7.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_ROW1_202448.zip # ROW 2 2025 4.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_ROW2_202448.zip # ROW 3 2025 5.7 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_ROW3_202448.zip # MRM DL1 2025 6.2 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_ROW-DL1_202448.zip # MRM DL2 2025 1.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2310_V20.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2310_V20.7z Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2310_ROW-DL2_202448.zip ======= coverage ======= # ECE AS(A1) Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Faroe Islands, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Malta, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Vatican City State # ECE 1 Andorra, Belgium, Faroe Islands, France, Gibraltar, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, United Kingdom # ECE 2 Albania, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Norway, Romania, Russian Federation, Serbia, Sweden, Ukraine # ECE 3 Austria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Malta, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 4 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 5 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, Faroe Islands (land-use only), France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man), Vatican City State # ECE 6 Andorra, Belgium, Denmark, Faroe Islands (land-use only), Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man) # ECE 7 Albania, Austria, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Macedonia, F.Y.R.O., Malta, Moldova, Montenegro, Poland, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, Vatican City State # ROW 1 Israel, Argentina, Brazil, Fr. Guyana *, Guadeloupe *, Martinique *, Mexico, Turkey * # ROW 2 India *, Chile * # ROW 3 Australia, New Zealand, Botswana *, Lesotho *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, South Africa, Swaziland *; Reunion *, Brunei, Indonesia *, Malaysia *, Philippines *, Singapore, Thailand, Egypt *, Algeria *, Bahrain *, Jordan *, Qatar *, Kuwait, Morocco, Oman *, Saudi Arbien *, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates * # MRM DL1 Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique # MRM DL2 Israel, Turkey ======= instruction ======= Don't ask me details, i have Columbus Mib2H. all what i know, files must be extracted to original(Škoda's) SD Card some questions have been already answered in previous treads: -> 2024/25 -> 2024 -> 2023/24 -> 2023 -> 2022/23 -> 2022 -> 2021 -> 2020 -> 2018/2019

It is part of the oil specification difference between C3 & C5 oils. C3 is 3.5 mPas is a VW504 oil. C5 is 2.6 mPas is a VW508 oil. https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/understanding-oil-standards-acea-specifications/ Thanks. AG Falco

there's a control module for electronics and it controls the voltage and current used to charge the battery. AGM needs higher voltage than standard batteries, for example. Mine was replaced today, let's see if that's cured the EGR issue or if there's loadsamoney involved... 🤔

Had my test drive today in an Elroq 85 Edition. It had Lodge interior which was pretty smart. We did 65 miles on all sorts of roads and I was impressed with both the ride and the handling. Absolutely no pressure from the garage to get the car back to them, so could have gone further. No doubt that's because it was Skoda's car rather than the garages demonstrator. About 8 deg and not a lot of sun, but the trip recorded 3.8miles/kW. Acceleration was impressive, not disimilar to a Mini Cooper S that I had a few years back. Cetainly more spirited than our XC40 with its 3 cylinder 1.5 litre petrol. Seems that our car is currently at Embden awaiting a ship for Port of Tyne. Salesman was hopeful that he'd have it before the dreaded 1st April which would be good. Hopefully the two ships abandoned at the mouth of the Humber wont cause any delays to shipments to Port of Tyne.

That is a very valid opinion. You want something extra to support your senses. But why say a vision based system is inadequate when it is clearly not being used to do beyond what humans already do? We humans use the same vision based system to drive the vehicle, no one in their right mind will blindly drive into that kind of fog/rain shown in the video.

You just lift it out/up to put/get things underneath.

I think lidar/radar is a better technology as it does what I cannot ie bounce radio or sound waves into and read messages back whereas camera are only a secondary visual system and I am happy trusting my eyes and brain rather than Tesla optics and Tesla software. The radar I don't have as I am not a bat or Daredevil (would not admit even i was). Radar enhances what i cannot do, optics and software, not so much.

Thank you so much. You’re spot on ie.make sure doors are shut and press gently. It then gives a satisfying beep and the warning light goes off. Good work 😀

Have to be more tender…..It is a fiddly touch button so it can keep you busy for a while. Also have all the doors shut when you toogle the switch, it can be confused otherwise.

It's known as DFM, Digital Field Monitor. It informs the engine ECU how hard the alternator is being worked, as a percentage of its maximum capability at any given engine revs. It being broken would not have the same effect on the warning light. That other wire changes colour at the 4-way connector from brown/red to violet/green before heading onward to ECU. The blue wire goes onward, still blue into the cabin, to the BCM (Onboard supply control unit).

That is the switch to turn interior light on/off when you open a door. In the picture the function is set to off , the lights do not light up when you open a door.

Long Life oil & Variable / Flexible servicing intervals / oil & filter changes certainly can suit high annual mileage drivers. Fleet / Company Cars, leased, not Bought privately as a Keeper in many cases. As far as Servicing Costs. Go back in this section and the Fabia Mk3 being Car of the Year with Autocar / What car before any UK owners had them. They drove them abroad, it was certain engine. Not all Fabia Mk3 2015. Then when Used cars later they ignored the 1.4 TDI issues, overheating. They were selectively deaf dumb and blind. When they Compared the VW Polo with the same engine / drivetrain the MAGAZINES showed the Polo was a lower running cost. Kidology, pure kidology. It was not about the Guesstimate on residuals. Not taking into account the Same Service Schedule, recommendation, advice, guidelines and cost of identical consumables. So what was it VW labour charge compared to Skoda Main Dealers services.

VWs choice of oil is governed by 3 factors: 1) What's good for the engine 2) What's good for efficiency and emissions 3) What's good to reduce oil change frequency i.e. servicing costs. Once upon a time the choice would only have been based on (1) i.e. what's good for the engine. However, in recent years VW, along with all the other manufacturers, have been under a lot of pressure to reduce emissions and increase efficiency. One way to do this (a very tiny amount) is to use thinner oil. The other pressure is to appear to reduce the cost of ownership for the new car owner. One way to do this is to specify longer oil change intervals so the service costs appear to be smaller. They do this by specifying long life oil with long change intervals. Both 2) and 3) are not necessarily in line with 1) in the longer term. i.e. changing your oil more frequently will do no harm (except maybe the cost of oil & filters). The thickness is more dictated by your climate & usage. BTW stop start traffic (i.e. normal traffic in most towns and cities) & dust is considered arduous usage! Personally I'm using 5w30 API-SP rated oil (Mobil 1) changed every 5-6K miles, on my 2017 1.2 TSI . The SP standard has been developed for direct injection engines like the TSI. (see themotoroilgeek on Youtube). YMMV.

Welcome. A moderator will be able to move your post to the Fabia Mk2 section. Maybe an issue with the Battery, maybe the terminals or the earth. Someone might be able to help in the Fabia section.

Assuming the battery has sufficient "water" (electrolyte) in it and the plates are OK then the raw figures don't look great but I don't know how they were taken or what with and the method needs to be consistent plus I don't know how the battery was charged and what with. The 12.7v measurement means very little as it was taken too soon after the battery was hopefully charged by the alternator. Depending on how the battery was charged 18 hours isn't necessarily that long and obviously not sufficient for whatever reason in this case. To give you an example the battery in my wife's car wasn't that low but took 14-15 hours for the charger maintainer to show full - cold winter's night but "winter" setting on 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer, battery in car. Unless you have your charger maintainer with you and can use it at work then I presume (always dangerous) that your car will be sat parked up for many hours with the battery slowly being drawn of some power, coming out rather than being replaced and more going in so if you can as soon as you get home, if you want to, put the battery charger maintainer back on and leave on until you go to work tomorrow and see if there's any improvement. IIRC I think you put before your plug-in digital thing was showing 14.x v while driving but monitor it again when you drive home tonight. Other than having a third party check your battery (and alternator) you've had two lots say your battery is OK if they are correct it leaves the alternator, computer system, wiring or connection(s) as being faulty. Did you check battery terminal clamps are tight and cables, wires and their connections (live and earth) are all secure and in good condition - yes the Dealership and Halfords should have at least checked the battery terminal clamps but if you are having to do a job for yourself you don't want to trust the work of those that didn't sort things before you. If a Briskoda member with scan tool, multimeter or battery tester was perhaps near to your home or work they could check stuff and or show you how to confirm and possibly help find the cause of the issue(s) or the resolve, most perhaps for a beer token at worse. If you want to have a look at the list and map here. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

GAFAT Container with Skoda... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09BZ1VZKS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The reading this morning was taken after I locked (and left the car alone) at 17:30 ISH last night, so plenty of time for the vehicle to have shut down.

The 11.9 volts standing voltage is low, but could possibly be because some of the modules have not gone into sleep mode yet - the standing reading can be unreliable unless taken at least 20-30 minutes after the vehicle has been fully shut down. However, it's very likely that your battery is faulty - which can be confirmed with a full battery test.

Perhaps the UK should consider stopping all Tesla sales until the bad weather safety performance etc issue is fixed and require all teslas on the road to be retro fitted ? A thousand accidents attributed to poor safety performance in poor light conditions plus those dozen or so deaths should be reason enough Euroncap is run in good light conditions, looks like the tests should be run in fog, heavy rain, low sun etc where Teslas seem to perform badly. Better off in a Dacia Spring and the walking, cycling public would be too.

Welcome to the forum @simmybear 👋. I shall keep my eyes peeled looking for a smart Superb Estate in the local area 👀👌😁.

Despite the Skoda Connect constantly reporting a tyre fault and constantly refreshing, eventually the app reported no problem! Certainly not reliable.

A car company that sells only electric cars which rely on camaras rather than Lidar....... Shock

Excellent...great to hear...enjoy!

Considering the difficulties Tesla faced to get the Berlin factory going, I suspect the % was probably already quite high before the troubled Muskmelon go full Nazi. Tesla is always a divisive brand from inception due to their disruptive nature. Germans love their cars just as Japanese are loyal to theirs. Considering he no longer spends much time for Tesla, I can only hope he is ousted from the company soon. The image just gets worse and worse by the day, we are not even 2 months into the sponsored presidency.

Mine turned up this week. Fit really well. Bottom line goes in, little screwdriver to lift the carpet around the top edge and they slip on really snugly.

I finally get to test drive the Elroq tomorrow. Mine was ordered 7th January and had a build week 9. I've no idea where it is now but hopefully I can twist the sales reps arm tomorrow to get up to date information. Before we moved, we used to deal with West End Skoda from Dumferline and they were brilliant at keeping you informed without having to interrogate them. Parks at Dumfries, less so. It'll be interesting to see how effective Traffic Sign Recogntion is. We have it on our current car but, unfortunately Traffic Scotland take delight in putting "HGV 40" signs every few miles on major trunk roads and the car doesn't know it's not an HGV. They're also currently discussing dropping the National Speed Limit down to 50 on single carriageway roads, which will be a bit of a bummer of it comes off. Should help range though!!. I don't drive like a granny, but I do drive like a grandad. I did see that Caffyns Tunbridge Wells have a red one available for immediate delivery. It has the Maxx Pack that we ordered, the Winter Pack that we didn't order, but it has Lodge Interior. We ordered Suite as we thought it would be easier to clean if the incontinance pants sprung a leak 😁 It is encouraging though to finally see a red one in the country. Gives us a bit of hope.

Just changed this year, Exide Start-Stop AGM 72Ah 760A 135 EUR. But the accu center coded all wrong, the battery charging was abnormal. Even after long ride battery showed 12,3 V. AGM should be 12,8. Weird was, that even my coding done by VCDS did not work. Skoda dealership recoded it and now everything is ok.

Hi all, so wife has found the starter button being a bit of nuisance sometimes, and now she mentions it, it does feel a little less responsive. There's a few threads about this, where people have given the circuitry a clean to improve things, but I didn't bother: Got an aftermarket one as seen above. I figure a genuine one about £50 or this one for £9.59 from eBay, so buy cheap, buy 5 times sort of situation. Also, something that's been on the back burner. I think @MartinB might be to blame, random rubber bits that go in the door latches! I got these at the same time as some other bits for the future, and were £5.66 for 4, I'll tally shipping in the future. They didn't go straight in, as the rubber bits are a little thick on one side, so went to loosen the bolts holding the latches to the door frame: It's one of those weird bolts, which I think is called a spline? My Halfords tools had one and I think M6 was the one needed. Once loosened a few turns the latches can be wiggled about a tiny bit, just enough to force these things in: Just a bit of persistence really, but they get in. Then retightened the bolts to 18Nm. The workshop manual mentioned 20Nm on certain pages to add to the confusion, but most references were 18Nm. The starter button was straightforward, dropping the lower steering cowl and then using some thin flathead screwdrivers to loosen the tabs. There's loads of threads describing the process, so didn't bother taking pictures. Certainly feels more responsive now, I'll debate whether to clean the old one (probably not). Most of my spare time is being preoccupied with another car, and despite it being aluminium, still has steel bits with rust significantly worse than this! So it'll be luck more than anything if I get time to do more with this one. Maintenance: £2407.39 (+£9.59) Upgrades: £2999.91 (+£5.66) Miscellaneous: £820.07

Thank you! Will take a good look 👌

Hello Gandalf! This is my very first post to this forum. Your car is inspiring me a lot! Specially this grille DRL. Did these clips follow with led bar or did you do it by yourself? I have 2019 Estate 2.0 tdi 4mo L&K an this would be awesome retrofit for that! So far my only project has been installing 60cm 200W led bar behind lower grill. Im living close to arctic circle and we need as much light as possible on the road during dark period. :)

@gav_is_con I test drove the Performance I ended up purchasing. I did look at a few long ranges but their part ex offer was a lot less than the performance and some garages weren’t even interested in my Superb hence why they offered bottom price. My performance is a 2019 with 37k 1 previous owner. It is immaculate condition for a 5 year old car. I didn’t really use the Superb to its full potential on a daily basis and only needed a big boot for the odd car boot sale or holidays. Yes the Tesla has a smaller boot but I have a 470 litre roof box for holidays anyway. The Superb didn’t have Canton sound. I see it has now sold. Main reason for changing is the Superb cost me nearly £3000 in 18 months on a full service, water pump, heater matrix, new battery, 2 new alloys due to pothole damage and costing nearly £250 a month in fuel! I will miss the Superb as it was the best car I ever had. I’m loving the M3P so far and saving a packet in fuel!

Funny you should say this. In about 10 days time I am trading in my iV for a new fully EV (Not VAG!). This was my third and last Octavia and by a long way the worst of the lot. When I arrive at the dealer to pick up the new car I am going to take the Octavia round the back and give it a damned good BasilFawlty-style thrashing.

Compared to a 245/45R18 fitted to an 8" wide rim, a 225/50R18 fitted to a 7" wide rim would give far more protection from kerbing damage because the tyre's sidewalls bulge out about twice as much...as shown in the chart below. Amount tyre sidewalls bulge out each side from rim 245/45 fitted to 8" wide rim 7.9mm 225/50 fitted to 7" wide rim 15.6mm The reason that the difference is so big, is because the actual width of a 245/45 fitted to an 8" rim width is 243mm, and the actual width of a 225/50 fitted to a 7" rim width is 233mm, ie. the 245/45 is only 10mm wider not 20mm wider...which you might expect. See the chart below. What is happening, it that the sidewalls on tyres with an aspect ratio less than 50 don't tend to bulge out much, but once you get to tyres with an aspect ratio of at least 50 the tyre's sidewalls tend to bulge out a lot more. Hence, if you want good rim protection from kerbing damage choose tyres with an aspect ratio of at least 50 and fit them to relatively narrow rims or at least a rim that isn't wider than normal for that particular tyre size. Actual width of inflated tyre measured from sidewall to sidewall at the widest point 245/45 fitted to 8" rim width 243mm 225/50 fitted to 7" rim width 233mm As you can see in the ETRTO chart below, a 7" rim width is the standard rim width for a 225/50 tyre and an 8" rim width is the standard rim width for a 245/45 tyre...hence both 7.0 and 8.0 are highlighted. ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 225/50 6.0-7.0-8.0 245/45 7.5-8.0-9.0

Most recent ones from my two. Milestone moment on the Fabia. This is a 62-plate. My mum bought it with 15,000 on the clock. This was taken a few days ago: Meanwhile, hit this a few weeks ago on the Superb III - a July 2023 car, I bought it in May last year with 5,000 on the clock:

Our 2016 L&K 280 has ventilated seats at the front, AC cooled glove box and centre console, remote release rear seats and a TV tuner. It’s now covered 51k and has been absolutely reliable with the exception of the NSR wheel speed sensor failing three years ago, a split in the AC condenser, the usual water pump failure and a new battery which I needed two years ago. Servicing costs are nuts due to the complexity of the 4X4 system, but I really don’t care as I have no intention of parting with the car. It’s the most comfortable car I have owned, now the quietest car I’ve owned and by far and away, the fastest car I’ve ever owned or had as an allocated company car.. and I’ve had Escort, Sierra and Granada Cosworths, Fiat Coupe Turbos, Nissan 200SX and ‘00’s of other so-called high performance cars. I really do think the 280/272 Superb will become collector Q cars in the true sense of the moniker, especially given the insane levels of tune the EA888 engines can achieve. But even with a stock vehicle, the acceleration, handling and grip are excellent for “normal” drivers. I love it! 👍🏻

I still get comments from people asking how recently did I buy the car or where I get the car detailed!?!? U don't need to b fancy to keep a car looking "new". Of course, if u have the time, money and patience - a full proper wash & detail is the way to go. Nothing wrong with that.

Updated Information ! This download is a new BETA/TEST Version! Ok everyone - here's some brief info. I haven't forgotten about my thread. Like yourselves I'm fed up of waiting to do a new update but the preferred database that I normally use and convert hasn't been updated or shared for quite a while. I've therefore borrowed the same sourced database that's being used for a totally different satnav device and converted them instead. This database uses different and somewhat confusing speedcam categories to the ones that I'm used to using so I've had to amalgamate some of them. Regard this update as a TEST VERSION and if you have any issues or feel they're not satisfactory then you can re-download my previous ones until I do a new update. All feedback is quite welcome even if it might take a while for me to reply. Latest Updated Speedcams - March, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( March, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into three consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams and Average Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - March, 2025.zip * Credit to Sunnyside Navi and Gpsurl for the use of this database without which these files would not have been compiled.

If its been there since you bought the car, I'd hazard a guess that the "upgrade" is the issue and that's why the previous owner got shut. The unit may have come from a car fitted with a different TPMS system.

Did this job today so just like to say thanks to all contributors, helped a lot. found it a bit difficult to get a socket onto the rearmost top mount bolt with the wheel arch liner in place (nearly rounded) first one off. Removed liner and much easier. For the sake of removing about 8 screws I’d highly recommend it.