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Heading down for a walk along the beach.

Popped over to the east coast, a quick shot of Lower Burnmouth and some onion rings from Eyemouth like nothing I’ve seen before!

If that's the case and you know you haven't spilt anything then as said above reject the repairs they are suggesting in relation to the shifter - and maybe ask them slyly why they investigated something unconnected with your 12v issue without notifying you and what their technician has spilt 😁. Once you have the car back it should be possible to get someone else to scan for any shifter related codes, clear them (if the dealer hasn't already done so to cover their tracks) and see if they come back.

Got out on my bike this afternoon for a nice ride. Out in the middle of Pevensey marshes, it felt like I had the place all to myself: Nothing to hear but birdsong and water running over a small lock gate 😎 Gaz

So another chat with the dealer this morning. They will knock off additional £250 towards paint, change the car to fixed servicing and service it before collection. I'll then take the PCP offer which gives another £250 off and gives me two free services. I'll then pay if off within 30 days. So it looks like I'll be the new owner. It was registered April 2024 so must have been one of the last.

I collected the car yesterday. The battery was faulty and has been replaced FOC.

If the "spillage" hasn't caused a problem then I can't see what grounds there are for charging you?

Well, this seems like as good a place as any to detail my misadventures. First post, please be gentle. 😇 Late last year I came into possession of a 2006 Skoda Octavia Mk2 VRS. It's a 2.0 petrol, pre-facelift, and was named 'Verity' by a friend, on account of the first letter on the number plate. It's my first car, and as such, I love it to pieces. ...and have also spent far too much of my free time figuring out how it works, fixing various components, and yelling obscenities into the engine bay. Things I Have Fixed/AddedReplaced the handbrake blind, which had split entirely into two separate pieces Replaced a missing dust cap on one of the tyres (I know, heavy duty stuff) Replaced the ignition barrel/steering lock (part number 1KO905865) with the help of a friend, as it had seized and wouldn't turn, rendering the car inoperable Side note: I never want to see another shear bolt ever again Hardwired a front and rear dashcam, routing the wires through the body of the car This was an endless nightmare Fixed the steering locking mechanism, with a hammer Got a tyre repair place to fix my back left tyre, whose air pressure valve had somehow sunk into the tyre wall Replaced my fog lights. This is more difficult than you'd think on this particular model. Ask me how I know. Things I Have BrokenThe front ashtray light (RIP) Countless clips, fixings and pieces from various interior trim pieces (remember the dashcam hardwiring?), much of which has either been replaced, or epoxied back together Some fixings on the driver side interior door card, from an apparently misguided attempt to replace the door lock Got the old door lock out, promptly dropped a mystery interior piece into the door, then spent the next 3 hours trying to fish it out through a hole in the panelling. Door lock still isn't replaced. An entire ****ing door, by attempting to overzealously park in a space that was simply too small, resulting in a very quickly-lost argument with a cast iron gate This necessitated the purchase of a door from someone breaking the same model of Octavia, which then sat in my living room for a month as a reminder of what I'd done/an ill-advised art deco piece Things I Have Yet To FixThe various warning lights on my dashboard, which lit up like a Christmas tree after I took the steering wheel apart, and refuse to leave (anyone in Sheffield got a VCDS unit handy?) Airbag warning light, which was already on when I bought the car Tyre pressure warning light - I think one of the sensors is busted EPC, Power Steering, TCS/ESP warning lights - all came up after the ignition barrel was swapped over, but car is no less functional and all 3 components work. Need to clear via VCDS The incredibly annoying wind noise coming from both back doors, where the window panels meet (I think I know how to fix this) The equally annoying wind noise coming from the driver side door, which I have much less of a clue on fixing ...it's been an eventful 4 months of car ownership. 😂 Wouldn't change it for the world though, as this car has given me an amazing sense of freedom, and I love learning how to fix this kind of stuff. I'd love to add mods as well, but I'm not sure how much can be done given its age! It was previously owned by an enthusiast though, so a fair few mechanical mods (turbo mapping, upgraded brakes & suspension) have already been done. I just wanna add interior LEDs lol. If you've made it this far, I salute you for your reading tenacity (but seriously, thanks). Pleasure to be here - you've all helped me plenty already, so I figured I'd try to add some humour to your day(s). xo, Ellie

Not true, unless the car has start/stop technology, which I doubt, or the replacement one was the wrong type. Where did you get it from? Any photos from listing etc.?

On Blakey Ridge today.

In that case, and if everything is working as it should be (which I assume to be the case since it wasn't taken to the dealer for a fault related to the shifter), decline those particular repairs and ask for the vehicle back. Then carry on as normal? If necessary you could clean the area yourself and the relevant connectors but if there are no functional issues then leave them be. I may be, as @OccyVRS has suggested they plugged a code reader in and found a historic logged fault code that hasn't been cleared and is causing no issues but decided to investigate anyway off their own back to try and create some work / income..

I'd also ask them to demonstrate how any liquid damage to the components listed would lead to an issue with the 12v charging system as MHO they are talking *******s and trying to connect unrelated issues.

It was the front near side. I was the same and bought the car last summer with an advisory of misting on both fronts, so I was expecting it. When I had the car serviced the local dealer (VW, but have just become Skoda approved) flagged it as a definite mot failure (due in may)but not bad enough to be covered under warranty🤔 So I took it up the road to another, let’s say more established and old school Skoda dealership and they replaced it all FOC with no mucking about.

There are tons of Octavias out there with 12V issues, including 2023 models which do not charge 12V battery at all. It is fun to see them trying to avoid fixing yours, making it look like your fault. I would request them to provide evidence that anything was damaged by the supposed spill, I'd say simply picture of something liquid near something won't be a proof enough in court, would it? Let em show what short circuited there. Perhaps they could also demonstrate how supposedly spilled stuff got there inside? On pics you posted I see no signs of it being leaked from above.

Priceless information. Another nudge towards the abyss ... 😁

@a price the VW Group can not offer EV,s for in the UK.They could have if they just had them built in China or even Poland.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1UqhugbDjoQ

Just to update this thread for what I’ve found. Essentially all the DNF engines are identical: DNFB 310ps (Audi S3 8Y, Cupra Formentor) DNFC 300ps (Golf 8 GTI Clubsport, Audi SQ2, T-Roc R) DNFD 320ps (Audi TTS) DNFE 280ps (Skoda Superb 4x4, Arteon, Passat) DNFF 333ps (Golf R 333) DNFG 320ps (Golf 8 R, Arteon R, Tiguan R) The hardware is all the same, it is just the map which is different (technically they have different SIMOS 19 ECUs). This means that tuners are remapping all of them to the same level because the map is applicable to all. So whereas most places advertise the “Superb 280” as all the same (even though 2 different Gen engines across 3 different engine codes), you can skip the confusion and go for e.g Golf 8 options. RacingLine remap is the same and confirmed this; since then I can see APR say the same. There are however a few minor differences - for example, I have found that the exhaust resonator is there on some, but not others. It’s not there on the Superb so no resonator delete option!

Different take on this - manufacturers have approval on type vehicles for a whole host of tyre sizes (E.G. a vRS can have 225/40R18 or 225/35R19). I would think that if you are putting a tyre size on not approved, then you may have some issues re insurance, as this isn't a "non-standard alloy wheel" job. That aside, as @Carlston says, going from 55 to 65 is far too large - starting in first gear on a hill will be like starting in second, and if you hit a big pothole you could run into some issues. Going to a narrower rim (or indeed a wider rim for a larger sidewall) might be the answer, as could dropping down a wheel size.

No need to worry about a full flush - IIRC Skoda will charge just over a grand for that job, which really isn't needed! Sediment sounds like a result of the coolant being used as coolant - over time, rust and stuff can build up in the coolant system and cause the change in colour. I wouldn't worry about it, unless it comes out brown. Re the silica bag - it should say "mit silikat" on it if yours has the silica bag. My understanding was that G13 cars had the silica bag, whereas G12 Evo didn't? Someone here will know more. I keep meaning to check mine but keep forgetting.

in a way, it is good to see that a repair kit has been developed, as opposed to the usual "change the lot", ie selling and fitting an improved turbo assembly.

Just picked up this Mk1 fab as my first car does anyone know if this exhaust was common/an optional extra, it also has mudflaps and red and black seatbelts. Thanks! sorry no clue why the photo is upside-down

It’ll be a faulty wheel speed sensor. Symptoms identical to mine about three years ago.

The codes are: U01000 U112100 U111200

Yes its all good ,mines a 2016 vrs with amundsen ,and all works well with dab+.

Yeh I noticed that. 😀

Glad its fixed . You have had the usual nightmare of getting parts off an older car. At least its back together and no faults so far. Nothing better than a new shiny bit on car and problem solved. Alasdair.

The new stud arrived today. Now all back together with new EGR and after resetting and taking a test drive the EML has not pinged on again. Hopefully that's it!

Misfires are often but not always from spark plugs past their best. What's the service, maintenance history of the car has it been done in a timely manner. You really need an appropriate scan tool report and perhaps live data to help diagnosis the issue(s) as there can be so many causes to issues like misfires and if you're not use to the 1.0 litre and/or start/stop cars they can cut out or hesitate from acceleration. Probably be best if you start a new thread on your issue(s) as it might or might not include the subject/outcome of this thread. HTH.

UPDATE Ok, my local Skoda garage took it for a test drive and inspected the suspension and steering components and found nothing. They said it drives fine. Sigh. Next up, a second opinion on the alignment, and quote "it's way off". The right rear especially, with the left front only just within tolerance, supposedly. They did not give me a print out, unlike the other place. They wanted to up sell, but I asked them to speak to me beforehand. As it turns out, they weren't equipped to do the job anyway, and suggested another branch. They said it all needs doing from scratch. I have now consulted a third garage, and booked it in for a full inspection and 4-wheel alignment. After speaking to them in detail, I feel quietly confident. I'll update again next week, after the appointment.

Remember that you might have some fault codes that will take time to clear (if you even scan it) and just check that the one touch window thingy still works!

Umm... nope. I found one in my MY19 build car and I've removed a couple of silica teabags from header tanks on MY20 and 21 cars. They are still there.

Definitely doesn't need flushing, but if you are insistent on this, draining the header tank and radiator via the tap on the bottom of the radiator then using a couple of litres of de-minerialised water to get rid of any sediment is appropriate. Then refill with G12evo.

Do it. You know it makes sense 😆

To partially complement th comment of Occy above, my DSG sometimes 'jerks' or as I said, loses its attention and needs a moment to catch the right gear. BUT - this is wiithout grinding noises or clunks/thuds. The occasional 'bump' is noiseless. I support the idea to have it looked at. Thanks to all the comments above, will get to it in the next few days,thanks!

I was looking in my car yesterday: brake pedal is made of steel clutch pedal is made of plastics maybe thats the reason why the vibrations are felt on clutch pedal and not on the brake pedal also I found some old technical bulletin regarding the vibrations on the clutch pedal on some old vw models equipped with 1.9 tdi - they suggested it could be problem in frequency modulator - a part that minimizes vibration transfer through the clutch line to the pedal https://www.valeoservice.com/en-com/techassist/technical-document/hydraulic-dampers

It should be 1KD. Your PR sticker in the boot might have the rear brake info on it, but if not you can get in touch with some people on here to get the full build sheet for your car.

Hey. I didn’t use them in the end. They didn’t reply until after I’d sorted myself out and decided I was going to flash it myself (which has worked out well). However, looking back @AlistairCookie was booked in so should be well placed to give feedback!

Thanks JR, I'll cut that ring off and see if that cures the driveline vibration. For the propshaft, I had a good look today whilst I was underneath, I don't think dropping the centre bearing alone will give enough play. That said, it only needs the bottom engine mount undoing, with the engine and box hanging on the top mounts the bottom of the sump can be swung forwards the couple of inches needed to clear the back of the prop. 2 person job, but looks quite do-able.

It never did show those fluctuations, yes I agree it should climb but VAG temperature guages have not told the truth for 25 years now.

No both are mark 4. The 4.5 has the speed always higher in the display for a start. The dual styling and font is different, cruise control info is up high to the left and there is a permanent range to empty device at the bottom of the rev counter and many other little changes

Changing from the standard 215/55R17 to 215/65R17 is far too big an increase. The speedo will under-read, there might be rubbing especially the front on full-lock, and the gearing will be too high...especially first gear for pulling away and top gear. If you want a better ride, first make sure you've chosen tyres will soft and flexible sidewaalls such as good all-season tyres...and that the tyres aren't over-specified...so something like 215/55R17 94V rather than 215/55R17 98W XL. Choosing W-speed rating if you only need V-speed rating and XL (eXtra Load) rather than SL (Standard Load) will make the sidewalls stiffer and therefore the ride harder. Choosing a narrower 6.5" rim width for the 215/55R17 will also make the ride softer compared to fitting this tyre size to a wider rim such as 7" or 7.5". Perhaps look at 215/60R17 fitted to a 6.5" rim width, or 215/65R16 fitted to a 6.5J rim width. One benefit, is that these two tyre sizes tend to be a bit cheaper than 215/55R17.

Tried both files for my 2021 Mib3FL. Both seemed to say they were successful but Radio Database in Settings is stated as 1.31.50 which is the earlier file. So NonGP applies to me whatever it is. Same result as earlier here - some may have been updated, but not obvious as the ones I tend to use haven’t been. Trying through the Skoda portal now seeing as that seems to be a different file and is taking an age to extract to my USB stick.

With my 2020 Kamiq SE-L, a warning message appears in the display in front of the driver when the battery needs replacing. However, keeping a spare battery in the car is a good idea so I will do so.

In a similar light, I give you three hundreds.

All done and fitted! Along with some headlight eyebrows and mudguards (white cars are a nightmare!!!) Many thanks to OP - JohnnyType2 for the guide and mudguard help too! Links to the parts: Grille - https://www.undergroundparts.co.uk/collections/all-skoda-parts/products/skoda-octavia-2013-2017-honeycomb-mesh-gloss-black-sport-front-radiator-grille?variant=32875148542032 Mesh - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C8H9GJHC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Headlight eyebrows - https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-abs-plastic-eyebrows-sportive-painted-in-original-skoda-metallic-paint Mudguards - https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007505331910.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.17.37cfKBppKBppT6&algo_pvid=504be607-89a4-42ef-98cf-020034d4fad0&algo_exp_id=504be607-89a4-42ef-98cf-020034d4fad0-8&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"12"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!8.69!7.52!!!76.57!66.27!%402103856417386796037755909e715c!12000041057681208!sea!UK!175521436!X&curPageLogUid=XKAQP3cmrjfY&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

Here is my honeycomb grille I have been preparing with a black VRS badge. I have added some black ali mesh behind it, to help protect the radiator that little bit more. I'll be fitting it as soon as there is a slightly warm-ish day. I'll post the after photos as well. Many thanks to the OP, JohnnyType2, for this guide though!! Dave

Would've missed this one, had it not been for a timely intervention from my Daughter in the passenger seat: Gaz

@Scot5 Maybe best you go try some more driving with your and other's DSG's and get to know about how the DSG's wet or Dry clutch operate. The Left Foot Braking issue and warning is not the old story of those not autos or 2 pedals and auto cars driving into others in car parks as they get confused. Automatics, CVT's etc and throttle and a bit of braking is different with a DSG where the brake pedal can cut power / drive when used. It is a case of just knowing the system and getting used to it and there are drivers using both feet with a DSG. I use the left foot for braking, but then i use the left foot on the accelerator as well as i only have 1 foot. PS Motability is a Charity that provides Vehicles and Wheel Chairs to those in receipt of PIP or DLA. Dealerships will have a 'Motability Specialist' that will know the local 'Vehicle Adaptors for Controls of vehicles'. They can do work on behalf of 'Motability Customers' or just Private Individuals that Insurance Companies will be happy with. One easy solution is a flip pedal that moves the throttle to the left of the brake, or has a throttle both left and right of the brake pedal, but that does not lower the brake pedal which is the issue in this thread Bottom pic is how i leave my own cars. Only thing i change is maybe the rubbers on pedals, or the shape. The reason for standard so no confusion with pedals changing vehicles. Pretty difficult in my experience moving left foot from left throttle to brake to the right of it. My Artificial foot stays where it is and left foot operates both pedals.