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IMO a TDI is not suitable for your usage / short journeys. & as for what use it has had in the 8 years up to now we have no idea so what the readings are for the DPF.

Oh yes, front windscreens are as difficult to clean as satisfying to have clean! That or saloon cars with a sloped rear - need a thin wedge to put the microfibre cloth on to get down to the parcel shelf! When cleaning inside, wipe left to right (matches the old heated rear screen element); when cleaning outside, wipe up and down. When you see streaks or marks, you know instantly which side of the glass its on.

All good now. Diesel drained out of our petrol karoq. Was told it might take 1.5 hours for the Drain Fuel company to get here but came within 20 mins. Took 30mins to drain, he said filled up petrol worth £10.00. We went to the nearest petrol station and filled it up. THANK YOU EVERYONE.

The tint film is on the inside so anything cleaning the outside of the glass getting external grime off won't touch it anyway. Dedicated glass cleaner products will be fine for inside and out. It'll only be tar remover solvents that will attack the bonding for any sort of film be it PPF or window tint). Types: Glass-cleaner products are largely sorted into 3 categories (forget No.3): Surfactants: Acid-based products that works to break the bonds of the contaminant from the surface and then surround/encapsulate the contaminant to be wiped away. Solvents: Alcohol-based that work as a solvent dissolving greases and oils into them. Some glass cleaners are very similar to IPAs/Panel Wipes (Carpro Clarify and Eraser smell suspiciously similar) (The rest: Anything with Limonene in is alkali and that won't be as effective on oils and greases. It'll leave the glass feeling slicker though so put these in the snake oil drawer for the most part). Action: Acids will be dissolved in a solvent carrier. Spread the cleaner out on the glass, give it a mo to work and then remove before the solvent flashes off. @OccyVRS that's why you're left with streaks and smudges on a hot day. Think of it that you're wiping off the product. Alcohol-based products you can wipe over the surface - the more you move it around the more it will dissolve the oil and grease. Dilution: For both of these types, the active product can only clean so much; how well it cleans is determined by how diluted it is (hint: the cheaper the product, the more diluted it is). If you clean and still have streaks and smudges, its down to one of two things: There was more contaminant than the product could remove and you simply need more. You'll need to use more and have more passes using cheaper products. The cloth is dirty. Microfibre cloths are made of two different plastic fibres - Polyester (really good at capturing water) and Polyamide (really good at capturing oils) - once they're full of stuff, they're full. That's why most products talk about using a clean cloth at the end; to capture the last remnants of oil/water/product. The point about Limonene: Limonene is exceptionally commonplace. Its an alkali degreaser that is extracted from the peel of citrus fruit (or D-Limonene which is a cheaper manufactured version). It forms the basis of Citrus Pre-Washes but is also in a million household cleaning products. I also spotted it in toothpaste the other day. Its good, but alkalis are chosen as much for their slick quality acting as a natural lubricant on fragile clearcoat. This also gives a bit of shine to give that psychological effect of looking and feeling clean. Test it on your black-glass induction hob and you'll see what I mean. Looks ok until the light catches it then its smear-central. Cleaners including ceramics: These are starting to become more common but, imho, they're a bit of a fallacy. The glass needs to be clean to use these; they're not a cleaner as such, a bit of cleaning power but moreso a way of giving the glass a hydrophobic effect. I've used a couple with largely disappointing results. Effectively, get the glass clean using a proper product, then use one of these for a final effect if desired.

ADAC did a group brake pad test in 2021. The group comprised ATE, VW, Brembo, Zimmerman, Bosch, and Ridex, ATE brake pads came top for wear. Brembo brake pads came bottom for wear. Zimmerman brake pads came top for braking distance, ATE brake pads came second for braking distance. VW, Bosch and Brembo brake pads came joint third for braking distance. Ridex came bottom for braking distance. ATE Ceramic brake pads won the test. ADAC group brake pad test 2021 https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/reparatur-pflege-wartung/wartung-inspektion/bremsscheiben-bremsbelaege/ Extract about the Brembo brake pads and brake discs from the ADAC group test 2021 The Xtra Line brake components with perforated discs from the Italian luxury brand Brembo impress with their highest braking performance under realistic conditions on the brake test bench . However, under stress, the Brembo brakes even fall below the friction values of the VW brakes: The temperature-related decrease in friction behavior, also known as fading, leads to a point deduction. Furthermore, disc and pad wear are many times higher than with the other products. An expensive and short-lived experience: After just 2.2 millimeters of thickness shrinkage, the permissible disc thickness is exceeded.

Only difficulty comes when I'm trying to clean the inside of the windscreen in the summer heat. I usually just do 1/3 at a time and that's worked okay. I just try and avoid grubby fingers, and then I don't need to clean it! I used to do some part time work in detailing - the hardest cars were the supercars with super low, slanted windscreens. It was a nightmare to clean the very bottom, as a squeegee wouldn't fit!

A couple of zoomed in shots through thin cloud of a Beluga XL from just now. I really should drag myself to Hamburg for a factory tour or even down the Autobahn to their airport site.

@J.R. I said in the reply above yours that it was a case of swapping in a working alternator, which I found on ebay for a very good price, genuine, supposedly from a 2010 vehicle with only 35k miles or something. Tested it by temporarily fitting it to my Polo on Friday. All fittings and connections were correct, shame I failed to notice that the pulley is offset outwards by about 10mm on a Polo one compared with this one! 😆 The belt rapidly derailed itself partially off the A/C pulley, but by the time I'd noticed that and hastily switched off, I'd confirmed that it was giving a healthy output. Belt appeared to have survived, luckily. The swap isn't a total piece of cake on the Roomy 1.2 TSI, 'cos there's no room to extract upward, and the A/C compressor has to be dropped down to get it out downward. Lots of oil all over the engine; source(s) to be confirmed and corrected. I will indeed start a thread in the Roomster Projects section, I think. Thanks for your interest. 🙂

Pretty sure the power to the rear goes via the front diff cage as per this SSP: Therefore, it cannot be a gearbox issue. To me, the only plausible reason would be a front diff failure...

oh yes, just don't do it. TDI's aren't designed for anything under 10 miles. I've had several TDI150's and they all need a good run to keep them happy.

Appreciate that Rory but, unfortunately, we don't have a Smart charger. We have a Third Rock Energy mobile charger with a 32A Commando Plug. We have PEN protection and all the goodies for safety and the charger kicks out 7.4kW so I can't really justify changing. I know I'd get an extra hour, but I wont be charging everyday. I think the rate is 1p/kWh cheaper as well, but I'd be a long time recouping £1k for a Smart charger, but thanks for pointing it out

Thanks so much! Very smooth trip home thanks. Looking forward to working on it to get it all tip-top. (Probably for it to then be poached by my partner, who definitely likes the look of it. Guess I can always find another. 😁). Really enjoyed meeting you and your family.

Skoda are running their Spring sale event on their service plans until 4th April. It's 20% off the "All in" plan, and 15% off the Standard and Plus plans. Details are all are here: Link to Skoda Service Plan website

Yeah, I got you ... is just that you remind me of the mentioning 'ceramic', also because before fitting this product, the glass must be superclean and degreased, the entire application takes couple hours is not just "open and apply". I would recommend such type of products to everyone, I've fitted them to all my stuff.

Oakura, next to the Pa https://maps.app.goo.gl/xDe3Rh31EuLMrkLF9

Horizontally makes more sense, I can then just change seat, rather than trying lean across everything ;)

I also contacted Carista (and Carly from memory) but apparently the latest Karoqs use some newer protection ECU/software and at present are not supported by those types of devices

There are companies that apply extra tinting film to car windows, just make sure that you don't break the limits on tint for rear side windows which I believe is 35% (front windows are 70% and windscreens 75%).

The other issue that is prevelant in earlier MK3's - is wicking of coolant up the sensors and into the sensor wiring. Loads of MK7 Golf's also suffer this problem. The symptom you report; intermittent issues with sensor readings even though the coolant is at the right level - is an issue with the coolant breaking down the electrical connection into wiring loom. Super bad news, but you can check if this is an issue for you by following the sensor wires back to where the wires join the rest of the loom and squeezing with your fingertips back to the connector. If you see coolant coming out the end of the connector (which goes into the sensors in the Coolant Header tank), then you get an car electrical specialist to trace back the wires to where there is no coolant wicking/hydroscopic action and cut/splice new wires. It seems that for some reason, the coolant is getting past the packing in the electrical connector on the coolant tank. I think its more a problem with the header tank - and if this is an issue, you also need a new header tank to stop that wicking action from getting into the wiring loom again.

I'll try giving the sensor prongs a clean and see if that helps.

The exact message that displayed on the dashboard was "Check coolant! Owner's manual!" so I assumed it was related to the coolant level....

I don't know why I am so pleased that you have bought it but I am! I know I can't save every deserving car from the scrapheap and heaven knows I dont need another vehicle but the story of this one was really pulling at me. I only bought the Yeti because I was bored and wanted a project, learning via Mike The Thinker that it was going to go on a transporter with all the other vehicles to Eastern Europe to be broken for spares made my mind up, it turns out to be my all time favorite vehicle and really suits my needs, I have a feeling that the Roomster will do the same for you. Please start a thread on its resurrection starting with whatever you did to resolve the charging problem for the journey home.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. This is the solar panel https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ecosonique-Portable-Foldable-Waterproof-Backpacking/dp/B0DQ8SDRRM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=10SMK5C2CK79O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dL-vvmweBatAB5-T8AVRgvwX889Mqk8B4GySYaJ26hW86hlE8Ymp_hEZbu_O1c8t2btOGQs1Igs8e9gl7PNgsur1-bLPFMeU3MOVqePAEq7JrCV-hWa8R57BpVEuSiiDvX7x2s5CKZUQhRvHtibgCO3FeE07GG-dt_MfwIJUZLRKBli805327VJPxdJezK4CKrAUmV2sCltxV5-UJ7J7N4xj_sBLvKjwbHeYE201sb4CyAaVUgDRg3273eYaCSFwpwA0BEZtGI0UqX36XRtUYwPCkfBpjvce7NREuRublUo.Ojaus25snM_EBanXWOVtr9K8Ndk5KfQm_4idiMlv43c&dib_tag=se&keywords=ecosonique%2Bsolar%2Bpanel&qid=1742821232&sprefix=ecosonique%2Caps%2C48&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 This is the conditioner https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CGHSHFH9/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B0D6BG63CX&pd_rd_w=Nijp2&content-id=amzn1.sym.a0b40c59-9466-439e-81b9-233f60bb66bb&pf_rd_p=a0b40c59-9466-439e-81b9-233f60bb66bb&pf_rd_r=KNVJF9CGTV83D1DA8SSE&pd_rd_wg=FeH5P&pd_rd_r=db96a5d3-a1cf-41f1-a75e-a76ff1055894&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 I had the panel in full sunlight the other day and it put 50% charge into my phone over a couple of hours (via the USB A socket). With the engine running the voltage across the battery is 14.3 volts. With the engine off the voltage is currently 12.2 volts. With the panel connected via the conditioner to 12v dc socket the voltage across the battery is 12.2v. Measuring the output from the panel I see 19.8V from the DC socket. The terminals that connect to the 12v dc socket show 12.3V The reason for the panel is I'm now retired so the car gets used much less frequently and typically only for short journeys. I was seeing the battery charge drop below that which would start the car after about a week of standing.

I'll have a guess - rear offside.

I've not posted here for a while as its hard to keep up with all the new hubs opening. However, here is one of note - the largest single operator hub in the UK. The new Instavolt hub at Winchester. Still at those prices, I doubt they'll be busy.

Until someone more knowledgeable comes along, here's my 2 pence 😄. I wouldn't of thought it would be the Haldex at fault as it has 0 effect over what happens at the front end of the car. If anything goes wrong with the Haldex, you'll probably have 2 outcomes. 1, you'll have 0 power to the rear wheels because the pump has died or clutch plates are worn out. 2, you'll have 50% of the drive to the rear wheels all the time as you've experienced with the rear end skipping because the Haldex cannot disengage itself. I'd probably point my attention to the Angle drive possibly which is bolted onto the gearbox and turns the drive 90 degrees to send the drive to the rear wheels. Maybe something funky has gone on inside which stops the front wheels getting drive but is still sending power to the back. Or like you say, maybe something within the gearbox. Neither of my suggestions make 100% of sense as I would've thought if something broke with the gearbox or angle drive, you'd get zero drive rather than rear drive only. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will be along shortly to give you a much better answer 😁.

Sounds reasonable then. Service history is over rated really. Condition would mean alot more to me when something is out of warranty. Obviously it has been serviced or it would be dead already. Seems a good deal to me

They need readjusting

Yes, speak to AutoGlass and your insurer and tell them that the previous repair failed. It should be covered under AutoGlass's warranty.

Unfortunatelly i wasnt smart enaugh to photograph any of the issue. But unknown by the this was already once fixed, with incorrect wire thicknesses which made the issue even worse. I now ordered this part: https://www.autoalkatreszonline24.hu/esen-skv/20709236 And we will do a change to the new connector, than check the ground My current hypothosis is that maybe the fix wasnt 100% good we shall see

I believe on newer models the key actually goes into a sleep mode after a few minutes of not being moved around. On older ones, the RFID pouch is a solution to this.

crashed it

Hello , this is possible , you need to install jilleb toollbox and onebits mqb rendering program that uses vnc server to send video to the cockpit. https://github.com/OneB1t/VcMOSTRenderMqb

What services has it had since new? Thanks. AG Falco

Yep. I could never get on with the ECO mode / coasting mode either which, without any engine braking, promotes more & unnecessary use of the brakes. Either that or you have to come off the throttle miles before a roundabout or lights which frustrates the hell out of anyone behind you. I stay in D mode most of the time with the odd spurt in Sport mode & manual downshifts via the paddles when needed.

For decades the Gas Pipelines, Aero Fuel hubs and pipelines, substations and national grid have been at risk. The Forties Pipeline coming ashore on the North East Coast and crossing Scotland to Grangemouth has been as are pumping stations and where LPG / Gas is removed are. Many points at the side of public roads and marked. One such under 2 miles from me. Sometimes the Security is at higher levels like when the UK was involved in attacking Libya. Sewage / water treatment plants attacked will have a huge affect on the population in that area, or wider areas.

Oil required in 7,000 miles would not be an issue. 1 litres is not an excessive amount required Do you know the oil was in area A of the Dipstick when the Oil was at Operating Temperature, parked on the flat and after a few minutes of stopping the engine after the last Oil Service? & was it 7,000 miles ago? If it starts off with the engine oil a little low after a service it is worked a bit harder. The 1.5 TSI ACT i assume is using VW508 00 / 509 00 so 0w 20 FS IV, so different from the 5w 30 FS III the Rapid used, or not as the case was. BE SURE NOW YOU KNOW WHERE THE OIL IS TO CHECK AS YOU SHOULD ONCE UP TO THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE, to see if there is a difference, and so you can then know where it should be when checked cold.

Have you checked whether there is a Cocharger host near you? Might be handy.

Replace the discs, (all four) and pads with something branded of good quality. I would not drive around with discs like that. A big hint from me, never put the car away directly after washing it and apply the handbrake, this can be the cause of this exact problem as the brake pad can get very stuck on the disc. I always take the car for a little "dry the brakes" drive after washing.

Assuming that this warning light query refers to the coolant level, not overtemperature, as temperature gauge is reported as staying 'at 90' - I'd suggest this intermittent fault points towards faulty coolant level sensor probes in the expansion tank. First check sensor wiring connection, then try gently scraping the probes inside the EV tank with a screwdriver. This fault has been reported previously by others. Suggest simple and cheap replacement of EV tank will probably fix, can even be DIY.

Tell an independent VAG specialist this story. They may have a suggestion (my thoughts being around the expansion bottle).

VW released few days ago a firmware update for the transmission.. they installed it in my car and apparently the problem looks to be fixed without replacing the parts.. hope this can be helpful.

Wait until you try active cruise and you are doing 70 on the motorway and it sees a 10mph sign and rams on the breaks

Here's the link to the mesh from Amazon, it is a 6x12 diamond, black aluminium mesh. It comes rolled up, so take some time to flatten it out a bit better. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C8H9GJHC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 I trimmed it up, and folded a small amount around the grille back edge, then added some high strength two part epoxy, which we use it at work to hold material onto plates for turning in CNC lathes, so I know it's not going to go anywhere. I have attached an image, where the epoxy is setting, I tried to get it into the small channel around the outside of the honeycomb, that is not visible from the front of the grille. I also tried to form the mesh to fit the back of the grille profile, with some gentle bending and persuasion, and held it in place with zip ties. The VRS badge I had, has a bracket on, which also helps keep the mesh located and fitting to form.

Heavy right foot, low efficiency, light right foot, high efficiency.

Update from my dealer Good Afternoon Mr Henson, Our team has made contact with Skoda for an update. They have told us that there is a software update and that it is currently in testing. We have been advised not to do any updates until we get further instructions. I will keep monitoring the situation and let you know as I know more.

I suspect there may be one or more software updates to be done. As a SEL FE from 2020 it will probably have had similar faults to mine - and I went through similar emotions to you. My suggestion is to book the car in and let the dealer do their thing with the diagnostics - and point them at s/ware dates too. There are known faults with fixes. Down side is any warranty may not cover the updates, but if it’s a know fault then there’s a good argument that Škoda should pay not you.

Try the test with the AC both on and off, (need to wait a while for it to change state) and report back if it stops or gets worse. I can barely hear it but if its what I can hear then it's what mine has developed.

Even after all these years, I still feel variable servicing is BS and really just a money saving exercise for fleet managers who don’t give a **** afte let the car is 3-4 years old anyway. Nobody has a clue when their car is meant to be serviced and what needs to be done. I remained old school. 1 year or 10K.