Leaderboard

NOx has never been measured at a UK MOT. HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide) are only tested on petrol engine cars. Lambda (air/fuel ratio control) is also only checked on petrol engine cars. For diesels, the opacity (smokiness) of what comes out of the tailpipe is the only test. Yours passed nicely with a 0.1 reading against a 0.33 maximum.

Any decent Indie can access VW records (I've yet to come across a VAG indie that can't). I think what Dean was saying that if the work was done outside of somewhere that uses the VW system, there will be no record of it. That said, I highly doubt you'll find somewhere in the UK that will touch a famous Direkt-Schalt Getriebe that doesn't update the records.

My edition 85 arrived today at dealers...got a call from Skoda UK to say it arrived at dealers late yesterday but then rang back to say it arrived today..i had asked Skoda UK to help with tracking as app was not tracking order via VIN. Excellent news.

Warmer Weather, still All Seasons on but at a slightly higher pressure. Pretty much 3.3 miles to the kWh over this past month. Recent charging. Home on the 3 pin, or AC 7 or 11 kw, and some DC / CCS 50 kW charging. Sometimes pre heating used. Pretty much always charging to 100% or a few to 99% 10 kWh 4 hours 19 minutes 0.70 pence 10 kWh 4 hours 4 minutes 0.70 pence 12 kWh 5 hours 10 minutes 0.86 pence 12 kWh 5 hours 7 minutes 0.83 pence 9 kWh 3 hours 48 minutes 0.63 pence 2 kWh 45 minutes 0.12 pence 19 kWh 38 minutes £9.77 pence 12 kWh 1 hour 4 minutes £5.42 pence 16 kWh 57 minutes £7.57 pence 19 kWh 24 minutes ?? £10.54 pence 17 kWh 7 hours 29 minutes £1.22 pence 15 kWh 6 hours 29 minutes £1.06 pence 5 kWh 2 hours 6 minutes 0.35 pence 2 kWh 59 minutes 0.50 pence 19 kWh 40 minutes £11.46 pence 179 kWh / £30.89 My MINI App shows. Must be missing some payments. My calculator adds to . £51.73 Charging costs. 179 kWh x 3.3 miles = 591 miles. .................... Petrol at 135 pence a liter is £6.14 a gallon. £51.73 divided £6.14 is 8.4 gallons. 591 miles divided by 8.4 gallons would be 70.3 mpg. 591 miles at 50 mpg would be 11.82 gallons. £72.57 591 miles as i would drive a MINI Petrol might be 45 MPG if lucky, so 13.13 gallons. £80.61 Is the £29 less with the charging and messing about and hanging about worth it.??? Suits me alone, but not when any passengers involved, it is a PITA then and you are more than £29 with Coffees or KFC etc. PS . Edit. Just finished 3 hour charge on 11 kW AC. 90 miles covered since last at 99% and it took 27 kWh to be back at 99 % showing 104 mile range. £12.74 it cost for 90 miles. *Cost pretty much the same as 2 gallons of unleaded for 90 miles to charge on a not the slowest but not Rapid public charger . *

Dying 12V battery gives all the possible errors indeed. Not too rare all of them except for 12V battery discharging. I never had a full array of errors popping up, but had some exotic ones like electric drive error or gearbox error, and it was due to 12V battery, too.

Obviously the All Season / Winter / Wet Weather / Summer tyre dates might well be a location location location thing and many around much of the UK might never have on Winters, or might keep them on all year if you are in and around the Cairngorms and are not going to ruin them even if the weather gets into the high 20,s Degree C. Odd frosty mornings and sunlight can be anytime, and cold frosty nights or even freezing water on roads at night might be something that happens, not that means that people are going to bother if the have on High Performance Summer tyres, they might just drive with care / caution. Maybe Lambing Snows coming for April in the North East of Scotland this year.

No, just no. Please, no. Halfords are absolutely useless. My girlfriend insisted on Halfords doing hers, and the guy ran the rear cable in the boot seal (so it's pinched when the boot is shut) rather than under the seal or, god forbid, through the wiring grommet/boot. They do not know what they are doing. I honestly wouldn't let them put a dust cap on my wheel. This is not bias, but rather experience (from dropping the wiper arm on a windscreen, cracking it, to some muppet trying to put power through the OBD port on a car with a dead battery, frying something). Your Occy has an airbag in the pillar, and you want that done properly (I.E. routed carefully behind it). I've done quite a few cars, and even went as far on my Octavia to Dremel a small hole in the mirror housing, so there isn't a single cm of cable visible. I promise it isn't that hard! If you'd like, I can spend 15 mins tonight, grab some photos and do you a little step by step of what's needed? The only tools you need are a 50p trim removal tool, some zip ties and a screwdriver. The tools you want to do a proper job are the trim removal tool, some cloth tape, some washers (depending on where you ground it), some electrical tape, Torx bits, etc. Cloth tape is a nice touch as it stops anything rubbing/rattling over time. The goal of a dash cam install is to have something you don't see, hear or think about, until you need it. Hardwiring may sound quite daunting, but if you can replace a fuse and loosen a screw, you're qualified for the job. My Octavia took me a good day or so to do, but that's because I was extremely anal in making it perfect. I recently did a 2024 Ibiza FR and it took about 40 minutes for the front, and about 20 for the rear. You don't need to worry about lane assist - the camera is in the mirror and physically cannot be interfered with. I had the whole mirror/camera housing off when I did mine, and routed the cable behind the camera unit to keep everything tidy. The headliner isn't the most resistant thing, and I'd far rather do it myself, carefully, than have Halfords break it. The only issue you might run into is that you may have DAB interference. I'm 21 and don't remember the last time I used the radio, but YMMV. If you really don't want to do it, you can get companies to install it for you (or even Nextbase IIRC). The 522GW is a good camera. I've tried Amazon ones, Viofo and Nextbase. Currently I use a 622GW, but you only really need a 322GW. I use mine to record track days, so wanted 4K with the extra stabilisation - I don't use the Alexa stuff. I chose Nextbase over Viofo as I can hide the camera completely behind my mirror, whereas the Viofo line are a bit bulkier. The Nextbase app is a bit rubbish, and I've had a wifi card die on my old 322GW, but otherwise I've covered probably 100,000 miles without issue. The Garmin line are also worth a look - I just already had the Nextbase wiring in my car when I upgraded to the 622GW and couldn't be bothered to change it all.

Only the dealership will be able to print of service history, this goes for any work carried out too. If any serving/work was done outside of Skoda there will be no record of it on Skoda as no one else has access to the system. Any Skoda dealership will happily print it off for you. As for DSG Service - expect to pay anywhere up to £350.

I needed to have my Matrix lights re-calibrated. I don't think they were ever calibrated properly. I had the car from 9 months old and from the moment I started using them I was constantly getting flashed by oncoming drivers. Getting them re-calibrated wasn't easy. I couldn't find any Skoda dealer near to me that had the necessary equipment. I think more VW dealers have it. However, VW cannot re-calibrate a Skoda as their computers do not have the necessary license. In the end my Skoda dealer took my car, with a Skoda laptop to another VW dealer that was part of their franchise. They re-calibrated the lights using the Skoda laptop connected to the VW calibration equipment. Since that's been done the lights have been completely fine. But it was a hassle getting it done.

I'd be a fan of Skoda for life if they actually had some channel for end users to communicate back to developers. Can't really rely on workshops in the process, they often seem to not bother at all.

Just installed the Eibach Sportline springs. Going for an alignment tomorrow but the car feels normal, maybe a little stiffer on rebound than stock but the DCC settings all seem to work as they should. I was told by the very trusted shop that did the install that the radar and headlamps would not need resetting as the 30mm drop isn't enough to warrant it. I haven't checked the high beams but I will see how they go. I had H&R springs on my last car and I can already tell that these Eibachs ride better. Maybe its the DCC doing its job. The car is now looking closer to how I want it too!

All good now. Diesel drained out of our petrol karoq. Was told it might take 1.5 hours for the Drain Fuel company to get here but came within 20 mins. Took 30mins to drain, he said filled up petrol worth £10.00. We went to the nearest petrol station and filled it up. THANK YOU EVERYONE.

Hey everyone! I hope you're well. I purchased a 2021 Enyaq last week and have a very annoying issue with scheduled / delayed charging. Over the weekend, I was using a public charger that was 'overnight only'. However, when the charging was meant to start at 11PM, it didn't. It only began when I opened the Skoda app, presumably because this 'woke' the car. Similarly, when I plugged into my Ohme charger at home last night, it also didn't start charging on a schedule. I woke up in the early hours, opened the app, and again, the charging started. It seems like the scheduled charging isn't working because the car needs 'waking up' when charging is supposed to commence. It's almost as if the car needs to be unlocked or manually woken up to start the scheduled charge—but surely this should happen automatically? I haven't created any schedules manually, as I am on Octopus Intelligent Go and Octopus manages this. Has anyone experienced something similar, or does anyone have any advice on what I can try to sort this? Thank you! Bailey 🙂 Software version: 3.7

I have a 2018 1.5TSi manual gearbox Edition & I'm really not getting on with it now. I find that there seems to be a big hole in the throttle response around 1500-2000 rpm which makes smooth driving dificult when moving off as the engine feels like it bogs down. In Sport mode it's bad & in Eco it's horrible. Maybe it's my clutch action but I've never had this issue with previous vehicles & I'm wondering if I should have gone for a DSG box instead, although I read many complaints about that hesitating to pull away which was why I went manual. The engine as awhole doesn't have much low end torque but it's fine once the turbo is spinning. Has anyone tried a re-map to overcome this issue? I'm not after more power & don't want to go faster, just to be able to drive smoothly.

My 2016 L&K has done approx 50, 000mls, can I check on line to see if it's had a DSG gearbox service from previous owner? Don't really want to contact local dealership as I don't trust them. Should I just book it into local independent VW/Skoda garage for service? Any rough idea of cost?

Well, this seems like as good a place as any to detail my misadventures. First post, please be gentle. 😇 Late last year I came into possession of a 2006 Skoda Octavia Mk2 VRS. It's a 2.0 petrol, pre-facelift, and was named 'Verity' by a friend, on account of the first letter on the number plate. It's my first car, and as such, I love it to pieces. ...and have also spent far too much of my free time figuring out how it works, fixing various components, and yelling obscenities into the engine bay. Things I Have Fixed/AddedReplaced the handbrake blind, which had split entirely into two separate pieces Replaced a missing dust cap on one of the tyres (I know, heavy duty stuff) Replaced the ignition barrel/steering lock (part number 1KO905865) with the help of a friend, as it had seized and wouldn't turn, rendering the car inoperable Side note: I never want to see another shear bolt ever again Hardwired a front and rear dashcam, routing the wires through the body of the car This was an endless nightmare Fixed the steering locking mechanism, with a hammer Got a tyre repair place to fix my back left tyre, whose air pressure valve had somehow sunk into the tyre wall Replaced my fog lights. This is more difficult than you'd think on this particular model. Ask me how I know. Things I Have BrokenThe front ashtray light (RIP) Countless clips, fixings and pieces from various interior trim pieces (remember the dashcam hardwiring?), much of which has either been replaced, or epoxied back together Some fixings on the driver side interior door card, from an apparently misguided attempt to replace the door lock Got the old door lock out, promptly dropped a mystery interior piece into the door, then spent the next 3 hours trying to fish it out through a hole in the panelling. Door lock still isn't replaced. An entire ****ing door, by attempting to overzealously park in a space that was simply too small, resulting in a very quickly-lost argument with a cast iron gate This necessitated the purchase of a door from someone breaking the same model of Octavia, which then sat in my living room for a month as a reminder of what I'd done/an ill-advised art deco piece Things I Have Yet To FixThe various warning lights on my dashboard, which lit up like a Christmas tree after I took the steering wheel apart, and refuse to leave (anyone in Sheffield got a VCDS unit handy?) Airbag warning light, which was already on when I bought the car Tyre pressure warning light - I think one of the sensors is busted EPC, Power Steering, TCS/ESP warning lights - all came up after the ignition barrel was swapped over, but car is no less functional and all 3 components work. Need to clear via VCDS The incredibly annoying wind noise coming from both back doors, where the window panels meet (I think I know how to fix this) The equally annoying wind noise coming from the driver side door, which I have much less of a clue on fixing ...it's been an eventful 4 months of car ownership. 😂 Wouldn't change it for the world though, as this car has given me an amazing sense of freedom, and I love learning how to fix this kind of stuff. I'd love to add mods as well, but I'm not sure how much can be done given its age! It was previously owned by an enthusiast though, so a fair few mechanical mods (turbo mapping, upgraded brakes & suspension) have already been done. I just wanna add interior LEDs lol. If you've made it this far, I salute you for your reading tenacity (but seriously, thanks). Pleasure to be here - you've all helped me plenty already, so I figured I'd try to add some humour to your day(s). xo, Ellie

I know what you mean with this, but I'm on about the trip milage at the bottom of the display you can reset yourself.

Thanks for your response! I doubt if the garage is to blame, they seem sincere and worked for two hours to get the best out of it. Unfortunately they were not succesful. Can happen... They take it that some kind of collision in the past would already have broken it. And when you then try to repair it, it can be that you hold those broken pieces in your hand. So, I hope that something like 'connect hole 2 to hole 7' would just be enough to prevent those alarms to go off About your suggestion of buying a plug from AliExpress, I wouldn't know what to search for! :) below the sketch the garage made...

Apart from the towbar not retracting, were the warnings being activated before it went in for repair? If not, they broke the connection socket in their attempt to fix it - and they would be responsible for repair to connector.

That is the lower coolant level warning although, there maybe other circumstances where it also indicates something else to do with cooling system.. My moneys on the prongs, but as mentioned, it can be a sign of something else. Coolant migration can be a a nasty problem. But less common. I caught before it happened on mine by taking the connector off the plastic tank when engine was hot and I could see a slight bubbling when sprayjng a soapy solution on the connector recess onn the tank.. The terminals where they come through the tank tend to be the weak point!!

is it worth to to swap VELA rims to second rim kit Propus for winter tires ? Image phtoshoped.

No, actually is very funny that they have designed the system to "remember" the refuelling because that is what the trip computer for fuel usage and driving stats is using, but no option to reset automatically the partial odometer. This said, I have found no car that does it, yet. I remind myself to do it manually after each refuel, but I sometimes forget, especially because the ACC info takes over the odometer .... I will try the tip of Steve above😀

There's a slightly shorter way via the steering wheel controls. On the right-hand side use the "<" key just below the roller knob to select the central menu in the display, and use the roller to move to Driving Data (some name like that). Click the roller & somewhere in there will be a "reset to zero" option that just requires you to press & hold the roller button. Sorry to be vague, I'm not in front of the car right now & it will depend a bit on what way you have the virtual cockpit set. It's still a faff, not as easy as a simple push button, but slightly easier than ploughing through menus on the main screen once you get the hang of it. The curse of the touchscreen strikes again!

If I had have fitted them this winter (we didn't actually have one!) then I would have refitted the normal tyres about 2 weeks ago, by that time the thousands of cranes has passed overhead returning from their migration route and the bees and wasps were buzzing around looking for holes to make nests in, that happens when the temperature remains above 10°c.

I havn't put them on yet!!!!!!!!!!!!! And that goes for the last 2 maybe 3 years. Not one of my wiser purchases since moving to the sunnier South, in Northern France they may not have been essential every year but when you needed them boy did you need them! Mine were rock hard and may have worked in snow but were lethal the rest of the time so when I saw a set of virtually new steel wheels and winter tyres on Facebook down here getting cheaper and cheaper I bought them for next to nothing. Now I know why they could not sell them! If I were to still visit the ski slopes they would be needed, if ever we do get a bog snow fall I will use them, otherwise I will wait till my recent new tyres wear out which will be 60k+ miles based on the old ones, I bought the exact same.

Thank you for your response, I will pass on this one and wait for something else to come up.

I think in cars of old (60's, 70's maybe into the 80's) the temperature was adjusted by altering the flow to the heater matrix via a valve in the coolant circuit, so in this case you are absolutely right, having the heater set to cold would be isolating the heater matrix. Now all the control is done on the airflow side with flaps and such. So you are not wrong, just a little out of date

Mine broke 1 week ago,fans started to blow even after 4 hours since the car was parked. new OE 645 relay and is fine now

No, I used Carwow to sell mine and found it really easy. Better price than part exchange, so I was happy.

Thanks, Pete, for your fast reply.

Cheers chaps. Sounds like I’m in the window (London so basically warmest for UK). That’ll be a job for this weekend I think.

My local independent (Sheffield) has access to Skoda's system through some sort of web interface (he was showing me when I was in for a service) and they update the service record each time I have work done. They then print me out the page for my own records so I'm sure that others will have access to.

If you go to an Indie garage, they can/will generally use something like Millers Oil for the gearbox, rather than the VW OE stuff. I'm getting my DQ381 done next month, and am debating between £250 for them to use Millers, or £390 with VW stuff. DQ250 interval is 40k or 4 years - remember to get the garage to do the little filter too!

Temperature plays a huge role in the behaviour of tyre compounds. An all-season/winter tyre will be a firmer compound that provides a bit less grip, but maintains this grip throughout a wide range of temperatures. A UHP/summer tyre will be a softer compound that provides more grip, but maintains this grip within a much narrower, and warmer, spread of temperatures. In the cold, this softer compound hardens up, reducing grip, ride quality, etc. If you're not interested in performance (dare I say that in a 1.6 Superb I'd hope you aren't!) then some all season tyres will offer better grip in colder weather and better NVH (unless they have a very grippy tread pattern). UHP tyres also wear much faster and in general offer less efficiency (and more grip). I live on the south coast of England, and run UHP summer tyres all year round. It's icy for about two days a year here, and on those days I just take it easy. OP lives in Kent, not somewhere with proper winters - and besides, I've driven in foot-deep snow with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S on, without real issue. Heck, I've even been in a track prepped Clio RS in the ice running semi-slicks - not the best experience mind. It's a 1.6 Superb not a tuned M3 and OP isn't driving through snow drifts, or 45°C deserts. Do get a brand (rather than some Linglongs) but for your use, anything from Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Conti, Falken, Avon, Goodyear, Hankoo or Yoko will do. Black Circles is a good place to compare prices. Your location, car and driving style doesn't warrant anything special with regard to specific winter or summer tyres.

Excellent news, just ordered a good condition used one from Ebay which I should get before the weekend, Ironically the wiper blade I ordered, and then subsequently tried to cancel, turned up this morning!!

Son in law serviced haldex as car was skipping and not driving well at all. Took for test drive and seemed ok and then suddenly no drive with no noise etc so assumed sudden clutch failure as its fairly high mileage. Didn't have time himself so took to mechanic who said that there was drive to rear but nothing to front so removed gearbox. Why I have no idea as he said there was drive to haldex. I personally would have checked front diff assembly/shafts etc which is still on car. Hence why he took van away from mechanic and wont be using him again!!. Had a look at gearbox this morning and selector is fine. seems to engage all gears and no play etc in input shaft. Clutch as said is 1/4 worn and DMF/release bearing all seem ok with no leaks form Gbox or clutch slave. Turned input shaft to gearbox and output shaft sockets turn so reckon gearbox is sound. Havent had a proper look at diff yet as I am up to my eyes with work as is my son in law. Hope to get a proper look in the next couple of days. Don't think he will be paying the so called mechanic either. Will post any findings as soon as I can Alasdair

To test differential engage a gear, rotate one pinion flange, the other should rotate backwards, there should be no noise, catching and a constant low to moderate resistance. Edited, you may need to prevent the gearbox input shaft from moving. Then engage direct top gear (this might be 5th and not 6th) rotate the gearbox input shaft, both diff pinions should rotate together in the same direction, normally at the same speed but due to the resistance of the bevel drive the LH one may rotate faster, if it is the only one rotating then stop it by hand and the other should rotate. Again there should be constant resistance, its difficult to describe how much, it depends on the gear selected, how old the diff is etc. You will feel if something is wrong, I'm sure there won't be. I would like to know what led up to the (I believe) wrong decision to remove the gearbox, if it was the mechanic then what was he asked to investigate? So many of these threads start out with a statement of fact that eventually is revealed to be the speculation of a mechanic who is beyond their understanding and want rid of the vehicle.

See list and map of Briskoda members, some will do stuff for beer tokens a few others are professional so different renumeration, check the person has the facility, knowledge and experience to do what you need and that they are willing to do so. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

There may be a rather poor connection somewhere between alternator and battery. Can you prize off the plastic cap from the alternator output terminal and measure directly there, carefully, to be sure of not shorting probe to anything unintended? Red probe on that stud, black probe on alternator alloy body. If that's nice and 14.3-ish, but the voltage across battery posts is much less, you will have confirmed a poor connection.

You can have any tint you like on the back windows. Think of vans etc, the only rules are around the front side windows and windscreen. Another option are car shades. They clip in and offer a great alternative to applying extra tint film etc.

Perhaps they were never adjusted properly in the factory? That's been posted on here before...

It's 6hrs for Intelligent Octopus Go. We use it with an Ohme charger without it communicating with the car at all.

My 2023 does this sometimes from brand new. My 2016 never did. Something is different about the brake pedal system, not sure what. I don’t think it’s anything to worry about

Before the winter finishes, here it is with the 225/55 on Stratos.

Playing with my new camera

My project, ongoing mission to make a perfect mile muncher!

Not that anyone ever sits in the back of ours, but I’m pleased to see the trays are now gone - always felt very flimsy…….

That dash top cubby was very useful, as it was just the right size for a disabled person’s blue badge folder. And in easy reach for both driver or passenger, to take out and place on dash when parking.

Taken from my kitchen window this morning - there are nicer things out there than Skoda Superbs!

Got some new shoes (rims and tyres) for my pride and joy.