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First time starting a project thread, bear with me... Heard about this Roomster not too far from me that might be heading for a scrapyard, and decided to try to acquire it. That went well and it came to my place this last weekend. Early 2012, 1.2 TSI, 5sp manual, 158k miles on the clock. This is it, just after being washed. Paintwork is far from pristine, but that's not something I care much about. I'd looked up the spec via the reg plate before seeing pics of the car, so there were one or two nice surprises when I first saw pics, then the car in real life. Factory build sheet suggested no roof rails, nor trailer hitch. Both were in fact fitted, presumably by supplying dealer since this was bought new by the previous owner. Trailer hitch is the detachable type, with 13 pin electrics connector and adaptor for 7-pin electrics. Super handy! Had to swap out the alternator to get it charging and driveable, battery was also factory original and not well at all following loss of charging. OSF tyre had nasty inner shoulder wear, without anything similar being apparent on the other side, so that needs some investigation promptly. Partner told me the high level brakelight is inop. Nearside mirror adjustment isn't happening. May well be a split outer CV boot on OS too, but hard to be sure as the whole engine is rather oily externally, and everything needs a good clean-up to see where any fluids are escaping from. Everything else seems to work, though the handbrake only slightly! Lots more to say, but for now: New battery fitted last night after the external clean. Interior needs a lot of cleaning up; hoping a local youth may be enticed into helping with that, possibly. Engine sounds rather nice and quiet after two seconds of mild rattle from cold-start. Seems to go just fine, but economy not great on journey home. Quite excited to bring it back to full health. 😁 I shall no doubt have many questions.

This may be repeating something from elsewhere, but I thought it might be worth mentioning in case anyone is in a similar position. I took my wife’s 2021 Octavia IV in for MoT yesterday and the dealer said there was a new software update they needed to do. I said OK to that. The car drove home normally and I parked it by the house. 8pm, the alarm went off. I silenced the alarm with the fob, and got in the car and the dash was flashing like a Christmas tree. Engine would not start. Error messages around ‘put car in P’ alternating with ‘P not available’ and parking brake error. Brake pedal pulsed against my foot when I pressed it, even with engine off. The car basically went mad, so I left it and went indoors. Half an hour later, I went out to check and the car was dead. No dash, no interior lights, no response to key fob. Doors remain unlocked, but rear hatch is locked and can’t be opened. I phoned the dealer this morning, and he tells me that this was the first car they had applied the update to. Immediately they had done it, they got a call from Skoda UK to tell them not to apply the update as it had been found to be faulty. Obviously too late to do anything about it. So we have a dead car, and are waiting for RAC to recover it to the dealer so they can attend to it. Just a heads-up.

Very nice shots, Lee! I'm an aviation fan myself🙂

Bit of a better shot today. Again zoomed in and cropped.

I don't know how is sounds, but I don't trust the guys from Škoda. What I mean, they won't try to clean it, is easier to replace it. As long as I need to replace it, I think is a good option, trying to clean it first.

Rear wiper arm up-grade, back-grade, old-grade, what ever you want to call it, done. Salvage part from e-bay, Fortunately in like new condition so looks good, plus the new blade I ordered but then couldn't cancel, which ended up being convenient. Unfortunately had to modify my wiper arm removal tool as there was no way it was fitting around the plastic surround of the wiper spindle!!🫤

<weary> What nose weight is in the trailer?</end>

Snapped this on my phone on the way back into the house after cleaning it so not great quality and also a weird composition but thought it looked quite cool when converted to black and white.

Many thanks warrior. Much appreciated.

@WaveyDavey I would share your concern if it were my car ... Guessing you are the first owner ??? And is it still in warranty ??? Hopefully they can sort it and with a good explanation as to why the oil, to give you peace of mind...

That’s why you have a warranty. They will work out what the cause is and fix it. I wouldn’t be concerned unless they say “they all do that sir”

Sorry for not updating everyone... It turned out to be the BRAKE FLUID (?!) When it just got back from the mechanic they actually left one of my ventnipples open so all my brakefluid dipped and I almost crashed... turns out if your brake fluid container is empty the car won't turn off? Anyways I fixed it and now the problem is gone!

Thought that I'd update to help others that might be experiencing the same driving issue of shimming/shaking experience at low speed and knocking under load. The long and short of it is that I've replaced the driveshaft....... and the car now drives fine. Result. The odd thing was that while the low speed shimming/shaking was constant. The knocking was random. Some days nothing, other days you'd worry about making it home! The other observation was that there was no discernible difference to the 'feel' in the amount of play on the joints between the old and new driveshafts, and I did wonder whether the replacement would make any difference. But it did, so all's well now.

That looks great pal. 👏

Just a quick update - I finally swapped my badge over a few weeks ago and thought I'd post a picture in case anyone is interested. I'm well chuffed with the end result

They are definitely overdue then. How are the rears looking?

No problem, understood 👍

Never had one, but I've always had a soft spot for Roomy's, and a mild hankering. Dunno why 🤷‍♂️ Wishing you many happy hours of tinkering 👍 Gaz

Not necessarily! The general rule of thumb is that you need to have the same type of tyres, with roughly the same wear, across the axles. In other words, you can have brand new Michelins on the front and year old Continentals on the back, with no issue. It's a common misconception that a FWD needs the newer/better tyres on the front wheels. This means that if/when you lose grip, you lose it at the rear, leading to oversteer. This is when the rear of the car kicks out, and is much harder to correct than understeer, which is when the front of the car loses grip. TLDR - get the new rubber fitted to the back. It's also a misconception that lower tread on tyres reduces grip. This is only true in wet - in the dry, the more worn down the blocks (tread) are, the more grip! Usually, the front tyres wear out faster than the rear, due to these being the driving/steering wheels that have more weight on them than the rear. The only reason you need to change a tyre is because it is wearing down, or it is cracking/in poor condition. The garage should be able to tell you how much tread you have left, and you can check the shoulder/sidewall of the tyre for any cracks yourself. I'm sure if you put some photos up here, people would be able to tell you :)

I had the same problem and feared it may have been the wiper motor as one of the other contributors has commented. I removed the jet which was not blocked, I tried again and no fluid came out at all, I worked some stiff plastic coated garden wire down the hole where the nozzle fits, it goes in 3 or 4 inches, I jabbed it and rusty water emerged, tried it again and it worked, rusty dirty water at first, after a few squirts the water ran clear and it’s now working ok, I hope this might help someone,

Same here, I think I have the same one as @nickytheshaft

Car has been at the dealership since Tuesday. They were told quite clearly I would not be picking the car up unless they changed something Just had a call. Having run the diagnostics through their very expensive computers, the technician this morning used at standard volt meter, and found an issue straight away. After 12 months of issues, today they changed the 12v battery

Also, when I reset the error, the car automatically starts regenerating the particle filter.

I've seen on YouTube, they clean the sensor with radiator cleaner. What do you think?

My flat head screw driver was not right right tool 😬 ?

Yes, MiniOBD II. I didn't use any software until now to clear the eror, only at Skoda every 10000 when I was changing the oil. Sometimes, the error disappeared by itself. But rarely

Got to be honest, this all sounds a bit complicated. My 1.2 DSG Yeti was bought new in 2011 and has done 45,00 miles. It, too, gets looked after and driven gently It was serviced at the main dealer during the warranty years but is now looked after by a very local and much trusted small independent. He changes the oil, air filter, spark plugs, pollen filter etc as and when. I don't tell him what to do, he does what's needed. He's fixed the driver's door wiring loom, a door handle mechanism, a water pump, an alarm unit and probably a few other little bits. I trust him implicitly and pay him when he's done the job. It all quite straightforward. I'd like to keep the car for as long as it remains reliable. Can't really see what all the above discussion is about.

Hi to all. I had a similar experience this weekend. I was supposed to fly from an airport in another country and at the beginning of the trip it asked me if there was an update and I allowed it to install. Everything was fine, I left the car in the parking lot (Friday), the trip ended on Monday night, and then the problems started. When I tried to open the car, nothing happened. My first thought was that the battery in the key had died (because that happened to me a few months ago). I looked for a battery around the airport in the night, replaced it, and the same thing happened again. I managed to arrange for the second key to be brought from home in the morning, thinking they should be paired, I didn't even think it could be the battery. And with the second key, same thing. Then I noticed that SafeLock wasn't flashing and I realized it was the battery. I managed to jump start it, but until the battery was charged, many lights on the dashboard were on. The car is 2 and a half years old, so far I have only had software problems (like everyone else). Nothing indicated that the battery would be discharged. When I read the post above, it immediately occurred to me that it might be the same, since I did the update via OTA. And it wouldn't have been such a big problem if I hadn't been with a 5-year-old child in a foreign country at 1am. Skoda has disappointed me once again. I will follow the thread to see what response they give you.

Hello all, Last Saturday I drove up to Grimsby to collect my Kodiaq from D M Keith who I would highly recommend. I have a 2019 Kodiaq Scout in Quartz grey and so for have been really impressed with it. My previous car was an Audi A6 avant DSG which had served me well however it was starting to feel a little bit tired as it approached 100 k miles. I did like the £35 annual road tax and easy 50mpg economy I had from it, But my daily commute is now very short, just 4 miles each way so this was not ideal for a diesel car. The Kodiaq has the 2.0 Tsi engine so no more dpf issues for me 😀 Of course I am not going to see 50 mpg any more but I don't do that much mileage so don't consider it a big deal. I do appreciate having my car fully warmed up by the time I'm halfway to work though. I guess that I am a bit late to the SUV game but now can see the attractions with the commanding seating position. I will not miss getting in and out of the A6, it had become hard work being so low. Looking forward to having a great time with my Kodiaq, I like it a lot!

Sounds like it’ll be worth the wait; welcome back!

Get a new 12v in there, should hopefully solve it. When mine was doing it it never gave a warning, would just die after the cleaning the car or something. When it was going it was like I couldn’t save it and it would always end up going dead then needing jumping. Mines been good for 6 months now and it’s a company car so done about 12k miles with no issues including weeks away without plugging in.

Man, this thing is expensive. I went with a cheapo adaptor. I have a Galaxy s23. All I do is connect to the dongle Bluetooth. Once the connection is done, the WiFi is automatically activated. Nothing more to do. Make sure you have the car Bluetooth registered on your phone as when you connect to the dongle, it will activate the WiFi and switch to the car Bluetooth. The WiFi between the phone and the dongle replaces the usb cord

Inlet manifold, one fouling / oiling plug and carbon build up and the tip burning off, crap mapping from VW, rubbish OEM plug choice which they changed, to still crap. dodgy components with the CAVE, not that better with the CTHE. OIl Spray Jets / Squirters, there were 2 breather pipe mods tried. Then Long life oil and only 3.6 liters when 3.9 was really the minimum needed, and 5w 40 FS not 5w 30 FS III. Bore wash. Enough detergent in the oil and then in the Super Unleaded, and they really needed and still do 97 or better 99 ron minimum. And engine to temp and booted and no gumming up rings. VOLVO sorted out Twin Chargers. But then Stefan Jacoby. The CEO of VW USA who was a VW Family insider that huffed off to Volvo / Geeely when he was not made the boss knew where the faults were. After all he introduced the Green TDI,s to the US and must of known about the defeat devices IF it was him that was the whistle blower. Brought VW from 1st place to 2nd behind Toyota. Then he left Volvo (sicj leave...) for GM Global. All that time and even when he was with Mitsubishi he was a VW Man born and breed. Cuckoo in the nest. Independent now. Selectively deaf dumb and blind. Knows nothing and everything.

@Giannis20 Thankyou very much for your help ambient light works now! :)

I don't know what has prompted the reduction in oil change interval. They can't use the same excuse as brake fluid changes - to align with their electric vehicles! Yes, you can instruct the dealer to clean the filter - I believe they do have a standard time for it. They will charge you extra but then oil changes on the Haldex and DSG are considered 'extras' (ie outside the standard service content) also. As a retired Chartered Engineer, it bothers me that anyone would consider changing any lubricant in a mechanical system without doing anything to the associated filtration.

I guess that Elon will be on to Wrigleys for an improved grade of gum to stick his Cybertrucks together.

That would suggest that the reader you are using is not completely compatible with your vehicle. The EPC light is on and something is apparently triggering the engine into limp mode, there will definitely be a DTC logged on the ECU.

That reads like it's going into limp mode. Get the fault codes read.

^^^ He can do better than that for a Gurning face ....... But it is not a bad attempt, Lol.

Arranged delivery today for 7th April 🥳

No personal experience but several trusted recommendations - it’s the way I plan to sell mine!

I picked up my Nov 2023 car at the same time as Nick & mine has always done this clicking when you release the pedal. Now that I've read this thread, it's getting louder and louder in my head each time it happens... 🤪

You obviously looked like a picnic man, I must have looked like a teddy bear man. Enjoy.

ADAC did a group brake pad test in 2021. The group comprised ATE, VW, Brembo, Zimmerman, Bosch, and Ridex, ATE brake pads came top for wear. Brembo brake pads came bottom for wear. Zimmerman brake pads came top for braking distance, ATE brake pads came second for braking distance. VW, Bosch and Brembo brake pads came joint third for braking distance. Ridex came bottom for braking distance. ATE Ceramic brake pads won the test. ADAC group brake pad test 2021 https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/reparatur-pflege-wartung/wartung-inspektion/bremsscheiben-bremsbelaege/ Extract about the Brembo brake pads and brake discs from the ADAC group test 2021 The Xtra Line brake components with perforated discs from the Italian luxury brand Brembo impress with their highest braking performance under realistic conditions on the brake test bench . However, under stress, the Brembo brakes even fall below the friction values of the VW brakes: The temperature-related decrease in friction behavior, also known as fading, leads to a point deduction. Furthermore, disc and pad wear are many times higher than with the other products. An expensive and short-lived experience: After just 2.2 millimeters of thickness shrinkage, the permissible disc thickness is exceeded.

Thank you @DrCorbyLee for taking the time to compose such a comprehensive reply. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I'm gonna copy and paste your response to mechanic and see what he says. I'll keep you posted

You cannot be pressing hard on the accelerator if the upshifts are happening at 2000 rpm.

£3,000 - yikes. It's worth noting as well that some sellers on eBay will offer 'plug and play' units, where you supply your VIN and they code the unit to correspond to your vehicle. They also patch the firmware to add the correct FEC codes (which enable specific functions like Android Auto etc), and to bypass the component protection, as I mentioned above. All you have to do, theoretically, is take your glovebox apart and swap the units. If you go this route it might be worthwhile investing in something like OBDeleven, so that you can tweak any bits of coding that aren't quite right afterwards. May not be necessary though, depending on how good a job the seller does. @pab567is the resident expert on infotainment retrofitting - he might even be able to make you up a plug and play unit.