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Major EV Fire Breaks Out Aboard Ro/Ro at Zeebrugge The blaze started on the third deck, which contained 60 electric vehicles and 40 conventional cars. https://maritime-executive.com/article/major-ev-fire-breaks-out-aboard-ro-ro-at-zeebrugge

What is it the big job they are going to have to do? How much are they saying it could cost.

I would check fuses first. Both the ones in the glove box and under the bonnet. Make sure you don't have any third party accessories.

UPDATE: Success! The issue has finally been resolved by a really great bunch of guys over at Autotecnic in Sheffield (go there!). They figured out that the alignment specs coming up for my vehicle, were not in fact the 'correct' ones, so they cycled through all the options for a Superb until they found the correct one. It was a real head scratcher for all involved, but thankfully Ross at said garage got to the bottom of it. He went above and beyond and his charges were beyond reasonable all things considered. They run a tight and professional ship, and are super friendly, straightforward and clearly committed to delivering excellent service. Great stuff, I am one happy bunny, once again driving straight down the middle 😄

You're also going to need a LIN Adapter so the wheel buttons work properly: https://skoda-acc.com/Skoda-steering-wheel-buttons-adapter-Full-S0001F and it would need coding I guess. Or contact zacko_O on this forum. He's built an adapter which I've been using and it works very well, plugs directly into the gateway next to the steering column and settings can be controlled using the adapter's local WiFi network; no coding required.

Airbag I bought new rather than eBay: https://www.super-parts.eu/de/5la880201-izy-skoda-airbag/ Squib was the toughest to find, got lucky with it on eBay.

They already do ............. We call them 'American's'. ............

I recieved them I tested them, working fine.

They said they think the Adblue had 'crystalised/hardened' and may have blocked DPF and damaged the engine? I didn't ask for a cost as it's got to be done and I do trust this garage. I'm dreading it though. Thank you for taking an interest, I love the car, I bought it 3 years ago, always have it serviced, a few mates had passed away suddenly and I thought 'treat yourself' so bought it.

My favourite photo from a visit to RHS Wisley yesterday: Gaz

My mistake - i'm digitally compromised - it 's a 2023! Just wishing I was 10 years younger!

GPS satellite signal The unit uses the GPS (Global Positioning System) satellite signal for route guidance. Outside the range of the GPS satellite signal (e.g. in dense vegetation, in tun- nels, parking garages, etc.), the unit navigates only with restrictions using some on-vehicle sensors (such as speed sensor or steering angle sensor). The unit offers the possibility to show in the split screen display the following Position » Fig. 32 on page 48 information about the current geographical po- sition of the vehicle and the satellite signal.  Geographical longitude  Geographical latitude  elevation  Number of received/available satellites To view the information on the longitude and latitude of the current vehicle position display requires the reception of GPS signals from at least three satel- lites. To view the elevation information of the current vehicle position display re- quires the reception of GPS signals from at least five satellites. Navigation data Navigation data source The navigation data is stored on an Original SD Card . In order to ensure the function of the navigation, the Original SD card, with the navigation data, must be inserted in the respective slot » page 25. If the original SD card should be damaged or lost, a new original SD card can be purchased from the ŠKODA Original Accessories. With a Non-original SD Card, the navigation does not work. Finding out the version of the navigation data ›Press in the Navigation menu the function key  → Version information. Update navigation data We recommend that you update the navigation data on a regular basis (e.g. Due to newly developed roads and changed traffic signs etc.). The information on updating the navigation data is to be obtained from a ŠKODA partner or on the following ŠKODA Internet pages. http://infotainment.skoda-auto.com Main menu Fig. 31 Navigation: Home menu ›Press the  button. The Navigation main menu opens » Fig. 31. If no map is displayed, then press the button  again. Description of the function keys A  Entering a new destination, ending the route guidance, route information, entering a traffic obstruction     Storing of a destination flag, list of stored destinations, home address Tour input / tour edit, tour memory POI input / POI search Map presentation options  Navigation (Amundsen) 47  Operation of the radio / media playback Navigation settings Pop-up windows Fig. 32 Extra window Switch display on/off ›Press in the Navigation menu the function key  → Split screen. The split screen can also be switched off by operating the  function key. Select extra window content The display of some additional information is possible in the split screen A » Fig. 32. ›Press the function key  . ›Select one of the following split screen menus. ■ Audio - Operation of the radio / media playback ■ Compass - Displays the current vehicle location in relation to the compass di- rections ■ Routes - Display of three most commonly travelled routes for the current time and geographical position ■ Manoeuvre - Graphic display of driving recommendations (there is a route guidance) ■ Position - Displays the geographical coordinates of the current vehicle loca- tion 48 Navigation New destination Does this help? Unfortunately the resultant copy / paste does not exactly reproduce the manual and won't allow copying of Figs 31 & 32 but I trust you will get the idea.

Possibly item 10 here? Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts When was the car built?

Photos are not better on my machine (actually worse). High resolution photos attached or inserted to your post can be zoomed in on for part number and manufacture date and other details but you could see those for yourself by zooming in on your photos without the need to post if you don't want to. AFAIK the part VW / VAG part number will look something like the following (but different characters of course) - 6v0****1 and perhaps followed by a letter, 'a' for example. Otherwise if the Dealership is nearby you could take the part to their parts counter to be identified. If held by bolts then all you need is "repair washers" resting under the bolt heads and the plastic part will be held at those points. Repair washers are just washers with a wide enough outside diameter to cover the broken holes with the centre holes the correct size to match or slip over the bolt shaft and threads. Bigger ones used to be referred to as (pre-decimal) "penny washers". (low resolution (jpg) image)

I had a similar response. The salesman told me that the workshop had told him that everything was up to date. After sending him a picture of the infotainment system screen and reminding him about the final picture in the approved used Skoda picture set (the picture showing the benefits of buying an official used Skoda), I received a reply that said my information was very useful and when could I bring the car in for the upgrade. At the time 1941 was the latest version. I have since had an OTA upgrade to 1985.

No, nothing.

The fluid level won’t necessarily drop if there’s air in the system. Just get it back to the “garage” ASAP - they should’ve just told you to do that. Oddly, it’s not going to become sentient and resolve itself.

The later Evo 4 EA888's in the Mk3 lost MPi. My 2024 Mk3 certainly doesn't have MPI. Time will tell if the measures to mitigate carbon build up have been successful but haven't heard any horror stories and the Evo4 has been out a few year now.

As usual, @J.R. is correct.

yes.

22/44 are weeks nr

Pedal feel and response improving when it is pumped would strongly suggest air in hydraulic system to me. Does the fluid level in the master cylinder look as if it has dropped since the repair?

Hi to ALL, So, today was service day. As i wrote before, factory recomended to change fuel pump, oil + filters. But it wasn't the case today... Last week they have found an error P034100 in block 001. Some oil was sucked out. Today the error in block 001 was found - P242200. According the error, "test plan" was done. The advice from factory today - to change EVAP valve. It will be ordered and replaced next week. They said its safe to drive until then. Any comments?;)

I believe he has a 2023

I expect @MartiniB will post the complete list of links when he's got some spare time but meanwhile here's the link for the new full Europe map: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2410_V21.7z

How, what, why? Did you report this on the threads which were created for this one of which is clearly show at the top of this page. This seems a bit unnecessary, ungrateful and even in my opinion spiteful - but you are free to put what you have and as "I am not a number I am a free man" (as No. 6 told us) so is my response to you. You seem to have the arrogant privileged attitudes of a self-acclaimed freeman, please go to where you feel more suited.

I was in Jaguar R&D at the time Ford owned them, looking at their commuter simulation system. They showed what the computer did if you added a crease or bulge to the bonnet. The computer did the lot... wind/drag analysis. Both externally and internally to the engine bay. All the finite stress analysis on the "new" bonnet, how that played into the crumple zone. This was apart from the weight change and weight distribution and how it affected the hinges. They do the same sort of thing on their wheels. Full stress analysis, they know all the weights of wheels, tyres, and the cars, speed, handling, loadings, tyre combinations etc even for Škoda aerodynamics and wind resistance (they all do that). How many third party wheel makers do this for their wheels? They do for F1 and some other classifications where there is money involved. I have seen people design wheels "artistically" and I am sure the software does have checks and rules so it should flag problems. That is, assuming you have told it precisely the parameters the wheel needs to meet. Do those doing refurbishment of wheels do a full analysis of them? Have they been over stressed at any point? Are there any fractures, visible or not? I forget what it is called but you can do a form of x-ray probing on them to look through the metal to look for problems, many of which will not be visible to the naked eye. Given, it is the wheels and tyres that keep you safe, it might be foolish to use refurbished/reclaimed wheels of un known or untested provenance.

Interesting. I’m an old fart and the nav is exactly the same as it used to be which, like almost every other one, is pretty poor. To find something specific, I always use the Google site search EG site:briskoda.net now stick your search term in This generally gives the best results. Still if you’re set on leaving, seeya.

There are two sides to the coin. What's better, banged up OE alloys, or a set of Romac wheels? I know what my money would be on. I personally wouldn't be keen on salvage/reclamation wheels as these can have issues that you can't see with the naked eye. It's not so much about obvious cracks and poor repairs as it is any micro-cracks or defects that have occurred as a result of the age. Lightly worn OE wheels are another story however - wheels that are a few years old with kerb marks are likely a decent bet. I personally wouldn't cheap out on wheels, but I'm also the kind of person to put on the best tyres possible and wait until the engine oil is hot before accelerating with any intent. Something like Bola are probably worth looking at, although as with all of these they'll need spigot rings and they aren't really the best. On my vRS I'd only run Revo or Racingline - something reliable with a 57.1mm CB from factory. That said, anything from TD, OZ, Rotiform, etc are fine too - I just have this thing against spigot rings. On a Karoq, I could probably be persuaded to stick on some options from Bola or the like, although this is assuming the car isn't towing anything, blah blah. There is a reason why OE wheels cost so much compared to aftermarket stuff. That said, 17 inch shouldn't be too bad. If you don't care about getting current Skoda wheels, you should be able to pick up some 17" SEAT wheels for a reasonable price.

I've got the electric seats on my Elroq. We also have a yeti. Love the yeti ... seat height very comfortable in front and back. I've had Nissan Leaf before - the batteries on that mean the floor pan is so high, its impossible to sit comfortably in the back. Tried a Volvo C30 & my daughter said the same problem. In the Elroq, I've not noticed an issue with seat height - I have the driver seat quite high - no issues with getting knees in - the seat moves back automatically - comfort access I think it's called. Rear seats - daughter very happy. Very good legroom and floorpan not noticably in the way. Whilst it's not replacing our Yeti, the Elroq will be the car we take on long journeys now. Very comfy.

Update - Car has been in the garage oil pan gasket is leaking. Parts ordered and getting replaced. Thanks everyone.

I use the Microsoft Authenticator app on my iPhone; it is also iPad compatible. I assume there are Android versions for it too. Works well and has minimal impact on my device. As for privacy, any authenticator app will need to know a certain amount of stuff to be able to do their thing. It's what the company collects that is the worrying bit and I distrust Microsoft less than I do Google hence my choice of app. My rationale being the Microsoft primarily make their money from selling software, whereas with Google its primarily by selling information about us punters to advertisers.

Just avoid all that nonesense and go and get yourself an ODBEleven dongle. It will be a lot less hassle and will give you a proper code readout as opposed to just generic codes.

Not sure if it helps or not, but the one thing I do find that's different is the height of the floor. It is obviously higher because of the battery, but it means that your feet and knees are a bit higher in relation to your bum. We've had 2 Yeti's and a Karoq, and dont really see any difference in the seat height. In the Elroq, I have my seat all the way down and the steering wheel all the way up, but still have a job to get my knee under the steeing wheel when I get in. That, I believe, is the height of the floor. Once I'm in, I find it extremely comfortable. We have the Suite interior, but test drove one with Lodge and I don't recall it being any different. We have Electric seats in the Elroq and we had electric in the Karoq and the Yetis. The Boss has driven all 3 cars and hasn't mentioned that she finds any significant difference.

@NigelL What does the good lady need, seat far forward and high, or back and high, and is she driving? Sadly not showing yet in the RIDC. As to seat height, of the base fully up or down, it is the Floor to base height that matters is it not. Once in the car, driver or passenger. Then as i know, it is how near the driver needs to the steering wheel / pedals controls when jacked up. People maybe short of leg etc. There is nothing to beat getting in and sitting, being a passenger or a driver. There are also the seat fabric style. some seats you are more on top of than in. The ground to top of sill or the top of sill to the floor is an important measurement for many.

Has the dealer no time scale for getting one in with electric seats? Skoda UK might well get one along to them for you to try? I take it it is a salesman that is just guessing. One that never got to go to an actual Launch Day for the Elroq.

Best I have seen claimed for a 1.8tsi. The 2.0tsi engine versions rarely better 50mpg on a run although high 40's is easily achievable. However: a) I'm presuming that this was a relatively exceptional event for you so there must have been a lot more positive than negative factors involved. For instance, when I am rarely holidaying in Britain with a hire car, I get far better consumption on a busy moving motorway than I do on an empty one (the race-cycle peloton effect) b) You have quoted the displayed consumption, which may or not be accurate unless confirmed against actual consumption My now 11-year-old 1.4tsi consumption display used to be pessimistic (consumption better than display) when new but over the years progressed through truly accurate to being optimistic. Today if it shows 5.6l/100 (50mpg) then it is probably 5.9l/100 (48mpg) actual. My odometer is accurate, but the speedo is about 7% optimistic and always has been. I get the unusual situation where the average speed display (calculated by distance and time) is accurate while the digital speed display reflects the analogue speedo inaccuracy. Sorry about the full-on nerdy reply.

At least on the Evo4 EA888 2.0 TSI 204 I saw they removed the MPI intake injectors. Look here at the engine , 15:03:

While I don't like to take sides J.R. has the cure more correct IMHO. The problem is we are typing on keyboards not looking at the scratch i.r.l. White showing up could be: The primer showing Paint transfer Damage only to the clearcoat. Frankly impossible to say from reading what is written. OH yes, our Chips Away bloke is good but it is true the standard does vary a lot. As it does with "detailers". To many car cleaners claim to be "detailers" now!

I have flatted out far too many clear coat scratches over the last few decades, they all showed distinctively white over dark colours like a girlfriends black MX5 and my blue Yeti, the ones on my previous silver Octavias were not so distinct against the light base coat but white nonetheless. An easy trick is to flood the scratch with water or smear silicone from a rag into the scratch with a pointed implement the white scratch will momentarily or temporarily disappear. The MK1 eyeball is the best arbiter of the depth of the scratch and whether its gone through the very thick clear coat and through the base coat underneath to the primer or bare metal. My input to this thread was to ensure that the OP did not follow bad advice to touch in a clear coat scratch (and its up to him to decide if it is) with "a body paint"

You can leave it there but for those who're unfamiliar with the process and want to find out more... Under PCP, it's the finance company who own the car. If you withdraw / cancel the agreement, the finance company take the car back. If you Settle the agreement, you own the car. It's as simple as that. You can settle an agreement within 24hr if you so want. The general advice is to give it a few days for the process to be setup. When you take out PCP, VWFS will set up the agreement on their website. You can access it without having to speak to anyone - the process is now fully automatic. You register your name, you log in and you'll see a list of options, one of which is to settle the agreement. You request a settlement figure. VWFS will then give you a figure and you have 28days to settle ( from memory that is... it might be a full month, I can't remember the exact figure ) without further interest, otherwise the PCP agreement continues as normal. You say you've done this multiple times? Next time you do it, pay attention to the wording. Here's the link... Settlement request There is no such option to withdraw. You're using the wrong terminology. I 100% agree with @SurreyJohn, withdrawing implies you no longer wish to continue with the agrement whereas settlement implies fulfilling the agreement. Well, to be a bit more pedantic - it's really nothing to do with VWFS, it's the law, largely the Consumer Credit Act 1974. This allows you to Withdraw completely within 14 days, No, that's for people canceling a credit agreement. It's designed as a 'cooling off period'. There was a time when as soon as you put pen to paper, a credit company could hold a gun to your head, the 14 day cooling off was introduced to stop that practice. You can cancel a credit agreement within 14days without penalty.

For anyone still following this saga, it's unfortunately not yet over. Two days after the car came back, I was heading North up the M6 when, you've guessed it, BING, BING, BONG....... Sigh. So I took it back into my garage this morning. They ran diagnostics and it seems to be the same sensor (Rear Left) as the cause. I'm taking it in again after the Easter holidays for more checks.

On holiday when I heard loud 'knocking/banging' sound from engine, immediately switched off, got recovery to take me to local (trusted) garage. They've said Adblue has leaked into DPF and engine? I'm genuinely terrified of what needs to be done, garage said 'it's a big job'! Anyone had similar issue?

Don't do what the bloke behind me was doing, looking toward the roof lining talking, instead of eyes on the road !