Leaderboard

Sunset, middle of nowhere, somewhere north of York: Gaz And tonight’s (Saturday): G

Where, incidentally we’re in the company of eight Peacocks: And the owner was nice enough to tell us where they roost, and where to not park! 💩 G

@gidi19 Suck the remaining liquid before and put an old towel over the plug holes before turning the engine. Then you crank the engine several times, put plugs back and try to start the engine. It won’t be easy to turn it on initially. For me it took 5-10 minutes. You try for 5 seconds and then let the starter cooldown for 10-20 seconds. Once started, there will be smoke. Drive it easily until it cleans out 1-2 kms and then change the oil.

Took my Superb into Skoda today for its 5th variable (longlife) service. I had it from new, its now a little over 2 1/2 years old and just reached 90k miles, front brakes still fine but the rears were 90% worn so new discs and pads fitted. It came with continental tyres when new, these were replaced at 35k (at one year old) with Pirelli P7 which are still on and have proven to be extremely good from a wear point of view (I can't fault them in any way for my usage - mainly motorway), the fronts are still on 3.5mm the rears 6mm.

I have had the rear door lock problem as Univ has suffered. After checking wiring and connectors and finding them OK I concluded that it must be the lock, so I asked my local auto electric specialist to replace it. Hey presto , problem solved. It did cost over £400.00 which consisted of over £250.00 for the lock plus labour and VAT. SKODA/VAG prices for door locks seem very expensive.

Maybe the icon has been introduced with Kodiaq FL version. I'll check that tomorrow on mine, if I remember to.

Hello – new to the forum. We have an automatic 2002 Octavia Elegance Turbo Estate (20V T 150) with just over 70,000 on the clock. It’s never given us any bother and hopefully has a few years left in it yet. However… One of the inner door seals has failed on the back passenger lefthand side and we can’t seem to locate the part (1U9 867 367 E KTQ Satin black/beige). We now have water leaking into the car and forming in the passenger footwell, which is starting to impact the interior. The garage and official Skoda has both said this part was discontinued in 2021 and have been unable to source it. I have looked online and can only locate the part in Russia – not sure we can import from there right now... I’ve also noticed that this part is listed alongside 1U4 867 367 E KNW light grey/satin black 1U4 867 367 E LUJ Satin black/onyx Frankly, we are not bothered if the door seal is the wrong colour so long as it does the job and keeps our car on the road, esp given the relatively low mileage. Can anyone offer any ideas on the following please? Is there anywhere (other than Russia) from where can we source 1U9 867 367 E KTQ Satin black/beige? If we can’t source that, will the other two alternative parts do the job just as well (as I said, we are not bothered about the colour…)? Is there an equivalent modern part produced by Skoda (or even VW) which will do the job just as well? thanks for any help!

How did you suck the liquid out? Did u put any oil in the chamber before trying to crank it? Thx

When my 2019 Karoq SEL DSG started having that problem I took it in to the dealership and they kept it for several weeks trying to find the problem. Turned out the windscreen was leaking and water was running down the back of the bulkhead behind the carpet. This is a well known issue with the Karoq which you will see if you google it. Check thoroughly to see if your carpet is damp and if so take it in for investigation. You should not have any condensation at all if everything is sealed up correctly. I havent suffered any since the repair.

OBDEleven did it for me. 2023 car. Thanks. AG Falco

Just had a new set of boots all round on my 2016 280 at 62k miles. Nothing much wrong tread wise with the old Nexen tyres (plenty of tread) except for loads of cracks due to age (6 year old tyres). Played it safe with a new set of Falken's all round prior to a trip away. Should easily last another 6 years based on my low annual mileage.

Mine does not either. Not bothered, as it switches off with the seat heater.

My immediate though was the OP was asking about the lithium-ion battery, I hadn't considered the 12V battery!

Likewise, mine started working correctly this afternoon. No explanation from Škoda. Which is disappointing.

Mine is working again . Using Samsung Galaxy with app version 8.2.0 Looks like something took a while to update at the server end but all good now - until the next update!

Picked the car up from Skoda and all seems to be working just as it should so good news 👍

I doubt you’ll find the horrid baby sick colour these days as it doesn’t appear to be a very popular choice. You can however get the black/grey ones from Skoda-Parts. This will have to be imported and you should be fine as long as it’s under £130 I believe. https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia/spare-parts/body/doors-and-door-parts/front-doors/door-seal-355.html

I DO NOT recommend the ATE Ceramic front pads. They've eaten away at the discs in just 20,000 km, and they vibrate a lot when braking. Furthermore, the pads have barely worn down over those 20,000 km, so all they do is not stain the rim. I'm going to switch to OEM.

Stalk fitted. Took 30mins and all came apart easy. Would say that there's an extra clip underneath that needs prying open to take out the old stalk. This isn't mentioned in wirer's instructions. Still looking for someone local to code via vcds. I'm in Stirlingshire, Scotland.

I'll try mine later today, it's currently in with Skoda having a service as I type this, fingers crossed mine also works.

Yes, it is quite a difference. But I have to drive like a granny to get those numbers 😁 Doing about 12-13K Miles annually

Cześć, poniżej link do strony z opisem możliwych FW U Ciebie powinno pójść do wersji 742. https://www.drive2.ru/l/650934799095051499/

Stopped locking door randomly. Got used one to replace it but ordered unsuitable, which I sent back. Having it on a table got it clean and greased with silicone spray. Now it's working fine but tests with unsuitable lock generated faults.

Sorry for late reply. It was probably the Haldex pump. It was cleaned and changed oil and I have not heard the sound after that. DSG oil was also changed at the same time (as it was time for that) so there is a slight probability that it was from the DSG, but I dont think so.

Yes but you spend a lot more time on more frequent and in-depth servicing and maintenance work than the average owner, I'm not knocking that, I wish you were around to properly look after all of the cars I've had properly, I certainly paid more than enough to not have that done by most professionals.

What fuel are you running the car on? I've seen this fault before; before you head down the rabbit hole can I suggest that you do a fill-up with some Shell V-Power and see if that improves the issue. If the misfire is more prevalent at cold, then this is definitely the problem. The theory is that the injectors are getting gummed up and with the little 1.0tsi engine, you need every ounce of help you can get. Tell the user of the car to fill up and take the car on an Italian tune-up; long fast run - keep it in 5th (don't use 6th) ; keep the engine revs high - and take it for a fast motorway/A-road blast. Don't be afraid to use the accelerator and floor it. Also check that the oil level is good before doing this.

Marginal - and if the battery is 10 years old and original, then yes, it should be replaced. You can confirm this yourself by doing a CCA test on the battery. Anything less than 60-70% capacity IMHO means a new battery is required.

Make sure that the window felt/brushes are clear as much as possible. I've found that if these are clogged with dirt, no only can they scratch the glass, it places additional resistance and can cause the alignment process to silently fail.

The car does about 8000 miles a year at most but I change the oil myself about every 6 months cos I can change the oil in 2 cars, every 6 months, for about the same money as 1 car every 12 months at the dealer. Plus, this car does lots of short journeys.

VCDS is available from a few distributors in the UK. I've used Ilexa.co.uk recently and found them excellent.

I had after market towbar fitted to my superb estate. I went for a removable swan neck type with dedicated wiring. Cost about £700 ish. I have had no problems with it, reversing sensors work with or with out the tow ball fitted.

Good advice. Key thing to remember is that tyres are cheaper than bodywork! It's a fair warning about over-tyre-ing a car too. It's 25 years since I had an Estelle but you want it to remain nimble so going too wide and low profile is inappropriate, same as anything. I made the assumption the OP would stay on standard width wheels as he didn't state otherwise. Blockley make some good stuff, normally well reviewed.

I checked the the cambelt replacement times as recommended by the belt manufacture before I ordered my Fabia. The information was out there back in 2015. I can't complain about my Fabia I bought in June 2016. The only thing I have changed are the lower front suspension arm rear bushes at £25.00. The rest is just normal servicing parts, and tyres which do 30+K miles. Now at 9 years old and at 88K miles it still has:- Original brakes all round, cam belt, battery, clutch, shocks. I have got a rubber seal on the rear brake caliper to replace but that is due to external damage. £20.00 road tax / VED. Last tank of fuel was at 62 MPG. Thanks. AG Falco

I'd think that you could add 9 or 10 years onto the date that you got the cambelt replaced before you "feel the need". Edit:- this post was probably written badly, what I was intending to say was, that you should not feel the need to consider getting this second cambelt for 9 or 10 years after it was fitted.

The Twingo is coming too, hurray !!!

Make sure any quotes you get include full dedicated electrics for the car and that they will undertake all programming. I have factory spec swivel down towbar and it's excellent but expensive to fit after build.

Ignore above. Glow plug 3 has come out successfully. I was just being overly cautious. It needed turning alot more then the other glow plugs. I also kinda had to pull it towards me to get the threads to grip.

That is something I had considered, but I wouldn’t have expected stop/start to be operating if the battery was struggling. Also, it doesn’t struggle to turn over, it’s the fact that it fires then cuts out that is puzzling.

If it's a 2022 car and the battery is reasonably charged it will get through it (and probably longer) but better to take the opportunity to fully recharge the battery though as the car's doing nothing else. If it's a 2025 car it'll get through it (and probably) but it might be more noticeable and perhaps have a permanent weakness from the experience. The electric loads on newer cars is not like in the past, use, abuse and neglect of car batteries has become a lot more noticeable so much so that it's been reported on this site at least one Dealership offers a battery charging service, for £40. and it remains the number one cause of breakdown call outs. It's very rarely the actual battery at fault most often to do with the car's driver/owner, occasionally a charging system issue. The 28.2.2022 'Owner's Manual' even has a section for 'Using the jump starting cable' (must be for some of you lads here 😁). The following is from the '12 volt vehicle battery' section. - And from the 25.11.24 'Owner's manual'(the latest one listed 'Protection against discharging the 12v battery'.- As always it's each to there own, it's only advice (from decades of experience of dealing with neighbours and friends batteries. Leaving a 20220or 2025 VWŠkoda standing unused with the battery connected up for 4 weeks, particularly if it's not in a reasonable state of charge, will have an effect on the battery and depending on the initial state of charge, it's age, use/abuse/neglect may have a permanent effect. These batteries aren't cheap (then there's the VW 'coding' if that's a concern. But as always it's each to there own.

Thanks for that RickT. I've got the Bolero unit so only AM/FM so it looks like the aerial I've seen will do the job. Now, is there a Yeti-specific air rifle I should be searching for? Problem is I'll probably have to shoot the wife before I can start on the squirrels 🙂

It should be fine i reckon ,people park cars up in airport car parks for just as long and have no issues on return 👍

A complete day of detailing. Perfect weather: cloudy almost all day long and sunny in the early evening for pictures! Inside: Completely vacuumed (even the spare wheel well), leathers cleaned and moisturized, plastics brushed (espacially door sills and drivers pedals), rubber mats cleaned and brushed with an APC. Outside: Intensive handwash (doors and tailgate hinges, bonnet & tailgate logos, folds of door seals around windows, all cleaned with a paint brush), tar removed, windows cleaned with alcohol. It was my way to be grateful to my Mk3 after 7.5 years and 136500 km on the clock before selling it. As a 'feedback', it granted me all this subtil metallic glitters of its Moon white color 😍, that I had almost forgotten... 🙄

Misfires are usually an ignition problem not a fuel problem. So whatever applies to unspecified engine from plugs, coil, coil packs, distributor, HT leads, dynamic ignition timing...

Today an engine bay detail.

What. No, no, no, no. 340mm front and 310 VENTED rears are for the 280ps petrol model exclusively. I already bought the wrong discs once and i have a 190ps diesel awd. What fit correctly was 312mm vented fronts and 300mm solid rear discs. As far as i know, nothing but the 280ps petrol with twin real exhausts get the uprated brakes

Plenty of options over and above the standard ones, although what is your specific concern? If the brakes don't create enough stopping power, then if you can get the ABS to kick in on a dry road, then the brakes work enough, as the tyres are losing traction. If its a case of fading under heavy braking, then pads can solve some of it, but you may also want to change your brake fluid and/or change the flexible brake pipes for braided versions. It may also be worth to replace the discs for cross-drilled and/or grooved version which will also aid colling for repeated heavier braking. For pads, look at Pagid, Ferodo, VBT (VagBremTechnik) for their products. For discs, look at the above, brands and also MTech also do versions which they add a coating to so the non-contact parts stay black rather than rusting to orange. ATE make ceramic pads which are lower dust so the wheels look cleaner for longer. Is your model a FWD or AWD car?

Front: Disc: 5Q0615301F Pads: 5Q0698151AH - sensor included Rear: Disc: 3Q0615601A Pads: 3Q0698451L

Well that was easy - Settings / Units / Volumes and change to litres. Consumption still displays as mpg but the AdBlue topup screen is now a much more helpful min: 3.5l / max: 5.25l

@SkOmk4, My answer in line: 1. All the Release Active DTCs will be present only on the SFD locked modules. The reason why the DTC is still present on that module is that you forgot cu SFD Lock the module after coding. The correct "procedure" to do some coding is: a. Open the Hood (to bypass car firewall) b.Check for previous DTCs before do any coding c.SFD Unlock the module you what to code d. Do the coding d. SFD Lock the module back e. Check for DTCs 2. Backup of whole cars/modules is a MANADATORY step (prerequisites) before start playing around with OBD11 dongle. The saved backup is the only one that can save you if something goes wrong, apart from a visit to your dealer. 3. Like I mentioned in my previous message, try to forget about the built-in OCA, and do the coding manually. If you mess something up(sometimes it can happened due to some parameters in German), just check the History section on that module and revert/rollback your changes. Hopefully this is useful for others too!

Pete's service is highly recommended! Our 2007 Roomster suffered from intermittent windows for approx. 2 years. Dealers could not find the problem. It's not easy to diagnose the faulty Drivers side motor as defective door-looms and switches may show similar symptoms. Problem was, the 'dead' windows would work if both sides are disconnected, left a while and re-connected. Then they work until the ignition is switched off for a period of time. After that, they are 'dead' again. If window-switches and door-looms are confirmed OK (and they are cheap + easy to change) then the drivers side motorcontrol-module almost certainly needs repair. As Pete says, other VW group vehicles from this period, e.g. Polo, Transporter use the same motors and are similarly affected. I sent the suspect motor to Pete who immediately confirmed it was defective, did the repair work and put it on test. Within days I had the repaired motor back in place, both window functions restored immediately (just needing to reset the 'one-touch' function). Congratulations to Pete who persevered to research and resolve this common fault, making a repair economically effective (other option is a replacement motor, around the eyewatering £200, only from Skoda / VAG dealers). The great bonus is that a perfectly good motor unit does not need to be thrown away because of a repairable module fault. Well done Pete. Highly recommended, and a very knowledgeable and valuable member of the Skoda community.