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Red Squirrel at Yorkshire Arboretum the day before yesterday: Gaz

A few from today........................

Hopefully, (gulp!) this is my final post on this topic. After some more investigation, we've replaced the wheel bearing as well as the sensor. My mechanic spoke to his old boss who still works for Skoda, and immediate advice was to check the wheel bearing. The bearing had a crack in it which got worse the hotter it ran, and the ABS sensor then threw up all the errors. We've replaced both the bearing and the sensor and the car has been very well-behaved for the past two weeks now. So, if it happens to you and the error codes show up a failed ABS sensor, have the wheel bearing inspected at the same time, as it is likely to be the real culprit.

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https://filebin.net/vkyyjf801kfir1co Here you go mate

I'm leaning towards more a crank position sensor, or quite likely immobilizer fault. Most of the time immobilizer presents as a start and instantly stop the engine symptom

More and more choices coming quarter by quarter. Bigger batteries in not that much bigger cars. Still just not that great efficiency and just longer ranges because the big battery.

Volvo EX30 vs MINI Countryman vs Hyundai Kona vs Kia Niro

Agreed they don’t supply them now and it looks better without.

Which actually does work really well.

Hello, I wrote to <email address removed> waited a long time, but today I received a response from <email address removed> that: We have considered these new logos in our next update version v1.31.58 and you can download them from 21-May-2025. I hope there will be an update from Skoda. @vegarz you helped me update, I hope there will be a new update here too 😄

Hi everyone, Been a long long time, I'm back in an octy, and a belter at 72k miles and PD 105. Was a spare car for a mansion house and sat in a garage most of the time. Serviced every year with MOT, and clutch/fly with timing belt done just last year. I've remapped it, bringing the torque curve to peak at 2k and she is pushing 260lbs and 155bhp. EGR off and 4.2k limiter.

2021 Skoda Octavia VRS with us for •Travel assist activation •Area view installation & calibration The car originally came without a reversing camera, now it has 360* cameras! VW - AUDI - SEAT - CUPRA - SKODA - PORSCHE - BENTLEY - MAN - FORD - VOLVO - BMW - & MORE! •Dealer level diagnostics •Coding •OE retrofits •Apple CarPlay •Android Auto •Component protection removal •Map updates •Software updates •Autowatch Ghost II immobilisers •Thatcham approved trackers •Remapping •Servicing •ADAS repairs & calibrations •Towbars • & more! ☎️ 01262 362116 📧 [email protected] 🌐 www.eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk

Yes.

Hi, Just joined up after viewing your site for ages before buying a new 74 plate Karoq Sportline petrol manual. Yes - I've experienced the low speed stalling!!, and been stranded trying to turn right at a busy crossroads - scary Currently running on Shell V-power - seems to run smoother and not so many cut outs Changed 19" wheels for 17" Ratikons shod with Continental All Season 2's - much better ride over the terrible roads in Southampton Oh and found the pedals too high so created a false floor - I'm a lot happier now. Cheers for now

I managed to solder it by pulling back the rubber cover next to the strut motor. Works like a charm now. Brown wire on motor 2 was broken

Hello, Excuse me for not writing in English. I'm bad :) I would like your help regarding an update to my Skoda Octavia system. According to MID helper, I do have an update, and it would be MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526. I tried to access the solution MIB, but it was impossible. Could any of you help me get it, please? Sincerely,

My Superb is now on its third windscreen, the last two replacements were made by Pilkington and they are at least as good as the original windscreen - no problems whatsoever, both fitted by National Windscreens (with ADAS calibration facilities). Not sure who Skoda use for their windscreens but it could well change to what is available at any given time, just like they fit different tyres to new cars depending what is available.

I haven't experienced those issues myself, but from what I've read on here it seems that in cases such as yours the infotainment unit itself needs replacing. If you read through more topics on the subject in this forum you'll likely discover those posts which could be of some help to you

Thank you. It certainly wouldn't do any harm, I'll get onto that.

Do the dash lights come on when turning key to pre start position? Alasdair

On earlier Fabias, silent non-crank non-start was/is often caused by breakage of the starter solenoid wire adjacent to the connector where it goes onto the solenoid. Not sure which angle it might be visible from on a mk2 1.2 TSI, possibly easier to see from below.

In your second picture is where a detachable tow bar would go. You appear to be missing a locking wheel nut where it usually goes. Some cars have the black screwdriver double sided one cross head one slot. They can also fit into the wheel brace for safe keeping.

look to pictures of my hatchs in links i posted above with Eibach Pro F11-79-008-01-HA your will sit down for about ~10mm compared to FWD hatch with Eibach Pro F11-79-013-01-RA your will rise up for about ~5mm compared to AWD hatch i'm sure that both are compatible keep in mind, rear will drop another ~10 mm during first year another extra ~8 mm can be got by use springs top mount from Audi 8J0 512 149 (which also improves sound isolation)

Hi Scott and Alana Just wanna let you know that I have been following your videos on the Yeti after watching what Darkside has done to theirs. I can’t seem to find many articles or videos outside yours and Darkside that has done mods to the Yeti. Looks like we might be the minority. Quick Intro - I’m from Perth in Western Australia. I have owned the Yeti since 2017 and have slowly added several accessories and mods to it over the years. I’ve used it as a daily and for my camping and fishing trips. It’s got - DIY roof rack carrying recovery tracks, 100w solar panel, side awning, shower awning, camp table and just recently, a uhf antenna Removed driver side passenger seat and mounted a 30litre fridge 30mm lift kit 16” Tiguan ET33 wheels with 215 65 Kuhmo AT52s. I recently tested the bigger tyres and lift kit in the sand dunes in Lancelin and it didn’t get bogged this time, finally! Being able to reduce tyre pressures to 15psi without worrying that the rims are going to touch the ground is a game changer. Happy to share more photos and ideas’

15 years and over 100k miles, I've changed one on that recently and swear it could have gone another. Bearings, belt condition, all very good. 10 years and 100k is a sensible I think

This has been an issue with the 1.9 over the years and pops up now and then with the 2.0. When my 1.9 had it I tried all sorts of "repairs". New battery, refurbed alternator, cleaned up earth straps, etc, etc. Some helped, others didn't. The only thing that finally fixed it was a remap. It was totally accidental and I had learned to live with the issue. My approach was to turn the key for one engine rotation, back off and go again. It worked every time. When I got the remap, I did the same but noticed it responded differently on the first rotation. After that it started on the button every time. The actual issue was to do with the crank speed sensor needing a certain minimum value before the system would start pumping fuel. The starter was only ever able to turn at the required speed when new/clean. It soon lost the ability to crank fast enough. I don't think the 2.0 has quite the same cause but the symptoms are very similar. I am yet to hear of a remap solving it though as very few are willing to try on what they think is a duff engine.

FYI: DCC and electronic dampers are the same thing. There are a couple of threads in here somewhere discussing using eibach pro kit springs from other models. The result is the same ride height as original springs but with stiffer coils. May also offer better quality but that is subjective I think. Worth having a look. @Carlston is the spring whisperer and a font of knowledge with this sort of thing.

does on iPad , sorry I’ll make sure in future 😳

She says that the black inserts match the other black highlights of the Sportline trim, and if I remove the inserts, the shiny wheels look wrong. By the way, I do take the trims off, when I wash the car, so wheels stay clean. I agree, I think the wheels are an unnecessarily fussy design. I have removed my inserts but will put them back on, but still remove them for cleaning.

My 2024/5 allows me to lock unlock in the app

I offer a few options: a) dismount the tires if they are still good, and for the money that new steel wheels cost, get them and you are back on the road in no time. The old wheels have multiple purposes as "stands" or other weight items, before going to the scrap, which you might get some pennies as well. b) if you want to "restore", as mentioned above, and are concern about their condition, the best course of actions is to dismount the tires, bring the wheels to a good tire center and have them checked for distortion or unbalance, and eventually repair them. Then you go to sandblast them, and have them powdercoat with a proper treatment which will prevent rust and will last much longer. Obviously this is recommended only if the wheels are valuable enough to justify the hassle and expense. An alternative to powdercoating is paint, but then you need someone that will paint professionally and with desire, and I would add have him/her put a double layer of lacquer on top, to increase resistance to damaging action. c) if you have a looooot of time to waste, endulge yourself in hours of destroying your hands, fingers, and equipment in using a wire brush. Make sure you get good, thick gloves, you will need several wire brushes and avoid cheap ones from the bricolage as they literally disintegrate and fly off everywhere. In anycase, make you wear protective glasses, ALWAYS! Keep your eyes safe from harm, they are among the most expensive "items" in our body ... You are likely to wear and trash out a drill for this purpose, so keep this in mind. If you use a battery powered make breaks if you see battery gets too warm. After that, provided you manage to remove ALL the rust all around the rims, is time to use a proper ground/epoxy base and then paint. If you do it by brush, depending on your skills if will range from horryfing to acceptable. I think I was clear in illustrating how useless the entire process is. I have wasted many an hour and many a piece of equipment trying to save things undeserving to be saved. Hope these words are useful to others to avoid wasting time, money, and potentially hurting themselves. Last but not least, a wheel that has reached this condition denotes years of neglect. To avoid getting to this stage, it would be advisable to have wheels cleaned regularly, especially after the bad season. When in the initial corrosion phase, the simple application of a corrosion converter like Wurth/Fertan and others, can minimize the damaging action of rust, and then even a simple spray/brush application of a product like Hammerite can keep it at bay. When it arrives to this condition, is a much more involving "saving action", and most of the times, hopeless unless radically approached (sand/powder, for example).

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1st ask admin to move to Octavia section 2nd I would change it , it’s your car an done 70k in 5 years and as most belts have a 100k 10year interval I would do for pice of mind if cheap and easy Cost of doing the belt is a lot less than a new engine

It’s not a Ford, so there are no visible elements. However, it’s also not as fast or effective either. My wife’s 2003 Focus clears its frosted screen in less than half the time it takes the superb to even begin to show signs it’s started.

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I cleared the codes, but I'm sure a good few of them will come back. I will post the report possibly tomorrow or the day after.

It does have DCC & electronic dampers (comfort mode is available). What I would like to know is the correct spring length and is it reasonable to go one grade stiffer on the rear.

Just as a finished washing the car, it started raining. :( But I decided to buy a separate set of wheels for my summer tyres (and keep using the original wheels in winter). What do you think? :)

Cheers. The app tells me this is a paid service and when I select Activate it takes me to another page where the option is available under Care Connect. I'm not paying £36 a year to see my service record!

Just to update the thread - it was definitely the clutch! Pictures attached :) Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated!

I have been reading the manuals for years now. Specially later years. Cars are becoming complex. You cannot imagine what kind of features you could find there :) Just like you just did.

I had a 2.0 TDI (CUNA) behaving similarly, somewhat often while starting warm engine, it cud start easily but shut down immediately, like the starting process had been cut off too early. Few times it did it also with cold engine. Reason was camshaft position sensor. Easy DIY job. Might be that, can not say for sure ofc. Caught it with VCDS, intermittent implausible signal from the sensor was stored in the engine fault codes memory, even tho engine module was not highlighted as red in auto scan gateway installation list, how it usually is if there is fault codes stored. Edit. CUNA has variable valve time system and I believe that is why the sensor cud cause such problem. Perhaps check first if CKFC has it too. And it might also be fault in the variable valve system, but I wud expect fault codes from that.

It looks like more of a chameleon tint that a wire element version.

Marginal - and if the battery is 10 years old and original, then yes, it should be replaced. You can confirm this yourself by doing a CCA test on the battery. Anything less than 60-70% capacity IMHO means a new battery is required.

I've changed these a few times. They are just a contact switch, the immobiliser is in the lock. Don't buy the cheapest no name ones, they can fail again quickly. Meyle or original skoda have both been good. Main steps are: Remove steering wheel airbag https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/body/body_work/passenger_protection/airbag/removing_and_installing_driver_airbag_unit/ Remove steering wheel - undo centre nut, pull..! Remove upper and lower steering shrouds, unplug the cable harness from left hand side, see item 1 https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/chassis/steering/removing_and_installing_steering_lock/ There's then a grub screw to remove and the ignition switch comes out to the left and can be replaced. No need to touch the ignition lock barrel or shear screws

That is something I had considered, but I wouldn’t have expected stop/start to be operating if the battery was struggling. Also, it doesn’t struggle to turn over, it’s the fact that it fires then cuts out that is puzzling.

NGK have a good video on ewetube. For replacement, They recommend a few drops of 5w30 oil onto the top of the threads area, as the plug is slightly recessed the pool of oil will stay there. Drive the car through several heat cycles for 5 to 7 days to allow the oil to penetrate. Most important next step is to use a torque wrench at 16nm (if I remember the setting correctly), and see if the plug will loosen. Applying more than 16nm could/will snap the plug. I have 1 plug gone bad this morning (air temperature was 6C) and she started but sounded like 3 cyl running. No smoke out the tail pipe. Took about 2 minutes to warm up enough before it idled better. After work, air temperature 14C, it started perfectly and I went straight to the auto parts and bought a set of 4 bosch plugs. I've added the drops of oil to my gplugs to soak in for the next 7 days. I'll do a multimeter ohm reading then before removing the old ones. 352,000kms on my 2011 superb cf/gb model engine 174bhp.

Not best picture but collecting tomorrow.

Update to this. Fitted window now. On reflection I should have bought new grommets as reusing old brittle ones made install a total pain (one was ok but the other I got like 75% in and decided that was enough...) Also buy the right rivets from Skoda as they are huge and not standard. The official manual was pants.... I recommend taking speaker out so you can hold the grommets at back when pushing in the insert. Skinny hands will help the far one. Use a few bolts or rivlets to secure panel rather than fitting rivets completely back as easy to push grommets into door recess and then have to start again at the beginning... Hope this helps anyone stupid enough to lock keys in car or not to have glass insurance....