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I’ve only been a member for a week and find this site easy to navigate as each model has it own section and each mk of that model a sub section . Mods were quick when I reported a spammer yesterday to get rid I think the toddler didn’t get the attention and threw a tantrum

Interesting, he popped back for a look around on may 9th... wonder does he miss us?

The ducklings are growing rapidly. Poor light this evening so unfortunately didn't get a clear shot of the Heron

While everyone’s entitled to their opinion, I think the way one has chosen to express it is unnecessarily derogatory. It’s one thing to prefer another website, totally fair, we all have our preferences. However, t’s another thing entirely to come into this community and trash the site in such a dismissive way. If the roles were reversed, I’m sure VerticalScope the owner of the site you prefer would be thrilled to know one of their members was out publicly belittling other communities online. That kind of behavior reflects more on the individual than on any platform they’re talking about. There’s always room for improvement in any community, and thoughtful, constructive criticism is always welcome. But this kind of negativity doesn’t build anything, it just tears down. If you’ve got suggestions, let’s hear them. If not, maybe consider the kind of energy you’re bringing into the space. We’re all here to make things better, not bitter. Enjoy your site, and don’t let the door hit you backside on the way out…

Unzipping with fresh 7zip and using a proper usb drive instead of an external SSD worked like a charm! Now on to firmware updates

Hello there ! I should have updated you a while ago but many things happened. I had a lot of trouble with the car over the past few months. First time rebuilding a crashed car wasn't easy as you might have guessed. Apparently my initial thoughts about a crash switch and and reason why the car wouldn't start were before I had the car on my hands and therefore there is no such thing 🙂. Furthermore because my experience came from a simple Felicia without all the extras (hydrolic steering, air conditioning ect.) I never noticed the difference all the pulleys had and ordered a wrong water pump with accessory belt. I also had a problem with the electrical since the wires were cut and I transfered my other wiring harness without ac which led to the radiator fan not working. Some days later I got the car functioning normally but the suspension was very harsh, almost non existent, the car was leaning to the right and when stationary it lifted and got back down on its own. Later after replacing the rear suspension again from my old car the transmission mount was making a noise when accelerating, it was the whole engine moving. I suspect with that and the vibrations plus the crash the engine mount also was loose. One of the three bolts holding the mount was only just a bit tight ready to come off. The water pump (engine mount) also was starting to get pushed off its place. Despite that I kept driving the car (I tightened the bolts and pushed the mount in its place) and after some kilometers my engine stopped working after a first gear pull. All the coolant went to the oil system forcing me to tow the car and fix it again. New front suspension, new water pump, new transmission mounts, new accessory belt, new transmission and clutch kit, fresh oil, coolant and all that. ( The coolant escaped due to a failing tappet in the engine head, when pressurized it shot out). I got the car to start again only for the radiator to start leaking FROM EVERYWHERE. Mind you it didn't leak before. After replacing that everything is working normally. I drive it daily with some minor flaws.

Installed and working perfectly on my Audi A4 B9. I downloaded and unzipped on my phone and copied to usb, no issues Thanks

I’d ask “is my AC working (getting cold)? Is it smelly?”. If the answer is no twice I’d tell the dealer “no thanks”. Lots of these extras are just fishing trips by the dealers. Better things to spend your money on. If the answer to the above questions is “yes”, not sure I’d use a Skoda dealer to fix it.

This isn't much of a problem really. Leave the new filter in its box until you've got the old one out and the new one can only get rained on for about a minute. This also isn't necessarily an issue; is this crusty rust or just a rust coloured film on the pipe? My old Octavia had a film on the exhaust from the catalytic converter back for about 15 years without needing replaced.

Almost sold my Mk3 Estate. Deal is done... The buyer is a Skoda fan (he told me his current Skoda is the 7th one). He is an ex-Mk3 owner. it was a TDI150 with manual gear box. He has been regretting it for it's comfort. He was amazed about the cleanliness of my Mk3, he's really happy. Now we only have to make the paperwork and payment. My Mk3 should definitely leave by the end of next week. The funny thing is that he lives 15mn from home. Thus I may see may ex-Mk3 from time to time.

We had a yeti and an MB coupe (super car). Changed to s single car and had to be easy access for wife and friend. The Karoq was our choice for access and boot space.

Similar reason I swapped from a MG5 to a Enyaq , mum and brother struggled to get in and out of it and I was finding it not so easy either Got full adjustable seats on the Enyaq

I took it to my local dealer who identified additional issues at their request (I’d booked it in already but still was in line with what they wanted). Still no response from dealer but Manufacturer called and said they agree to fix if I bring it back to them only. Even though they said get it assessed by third party and get them to do work which is now not on the table. I think due to level of work cost factors are in play for them if it’s repaired. Simply put if they did the work like they should we wouldn’t be in this mess and I do not trust them to rectify the works given the issues over just two weeks. I’ve emailed the dealership no response so left with sending the letter of rejection to see if they respond to that.

@nta16 thanks for that ,now i know a new thing 😁

I mean, it's as least as good as any of the other beat to hell panels in this truck already. more to do but not today.

Follow it to see what it goes to at the other end? One thing's for sure, it's a source of filtered fresh air, not vacuum, for something, if coming from the airbox. Leave it disconnected but open.

type the symbol @ just in front of Ootohere - example @nta16 = @nta16

Thanks for replies both. In one way it's good to know as I thought I was perhaps being a bit slow and/or not seeing what's under my nose or belly. I would much sooner have the "infinitely variable, Sir" windy windows at the front too and the one-touch bit doesn't bother me but the down-a bit, up-a-bit on the switch to get the window(s) where I want also annoys me, I feel like I've rung The Golden Shot. Another dream shattered . . . 😄

SWMBOs SEL Fabia has similar window setup - AFAIK, there's no convenience opening option.

Hi Steve, that's very useful info thanks. I will give it a try and see if it works for me. Thanks Mike

Apologies for the delayed response, I've had a very busy few days. AFAIK this is not possible. Windows should be powered via Fuse 30 "Power windows, light switches, reverse light switches, control unit for air conditioning system, control unit for park assist, exterior mirror, power feed for center button strip, power feed for side button strip, interior mirror" which is an ACC switched. Its really annoying, I know. Its especially annoying that models with rear windy windows dont have one push open/close! Simply clever.

@Mickvrs220 If all smaller capacity 3 or 4 TSI,s with a smaller oil capacity were like yours it would be 'Simply Clever'. If all 1.2 & 1.4, or 1.8 & 2.0 TSI Euro 5 engines were like yours them people might have had less My car uses oil threads. @Sco22y If a dipstick is really difficult to read and see the dry from the wet, a little rub with chalk or a slight dusting of french chalk / talc does the job and really does not affect / spoil the Hot Oil.

I drop mine every 12 months without fail including filter 2.0 vrs tsi ,put 5.7 litres back in good to go till next year ,never had any issues in last seven years .

Looking forward to it, even given the old knacker a polish.

I've been very happy with my late 2022 petrol VRS (manual). I had a brief period of about a month with the infotainment system restarting but apart from that no issues & still love driving it. New face-lift model ordered & due at the end of next month. It'll be my 3rd VRS but the first dsg

Thanks for your help AG Falco, problem sorted!

Yeah changing the latch first was a schoolboy error. First time I’ve had a car with an electric boot switch that’s failed but had latches fail in Golf and Zafira in the past. As you say it is what it is and I hope the switch does the trick. Thanks for the tips on where to start if it doesn’t.

Nice to see this thread is still going! I'm pleased to report that I'm 4 years into ownership and still very happy myself, although I've faced almost every documented issue with the cars software etc, it's all sorted now (apart from some ongoing issues with the key fob that will hopefully be replaced soon).

According to the HonestJohn site, there was a Mk3 1.4 125ps S spec version on sale until Nov 2018, but they appear to be pretty rare. However, when I was looking for a Superb or Passat (cousins!) in a hurry in 2021 (when used car market had not yet recovered from Covid disruptions) I saw a Passat '1.4 ACT' for sale on AutoTrader but spotted that in the Performance details, it was showing as 123bhp (i.e. TSI, non-ACT). The salesman assured me that it was an ACT but said that the Performance figures were automatically supplied by AT from the car's registration. In that case, I pointed out, there was an obvious discrepency! A couple of weeks later, the 'ACT' was dropped from the listing heading... (I had no reason to suspect a deliberate deception from the salesman).

I'm not sure why you started with the latch if it opened using the screwdriver hole but that's done and now you have switch so fit that and see how you go. You can check wiring at switch with a multimeter but if it's an intermittent fault it might be OK when you check but not later. Wires inside the black plastic trunking, at the opening of boot door that takes wires from bodywork to boot door, can often be fatigued, frayed, broken, you could look there for any visual evidence. Rust around the switch or rear number plate light might perhaps show water leak or corrosion in that area. Have a look at posts and threads here on failing boot switches. HTH.

Thats great thanks for getting back to me.

I got a second hand subframe from a breakers yard. From a 2014 model with 78k miles. Frame came with roll bar and both lower arms, all the bushing look great 👍 especially compared to my 144k mile ones. Many jobs with one stone for £120 inc postage.

I'm sure that all they do is check it works and report back at extra cost if it needs gas or anything else - that fluff about inspecting the compressor, condenser and dryer is just that, fluff - as for the other 34 point car check, hmmm........ So, in answer to your question, ask yourself, does it work, is it cold enough? If no then don't waste £99 on what you already know, use it towards the cost of re gassing.

The corollary on the inbuilt filemanger unzip in Windows 10 / 11 I found it worked on mib2 high files, but much slower than 7zip as you found, whilst the file manager unzip messed up mib3 navigation files. It wasn't seeing one of the critical files when one was looking to decode mm.yy. Thus it might be a good idea to check you have the very latest release of 7zip. That's what I did when I found I had the issue with the built in unzip file manager. Vag suggest 7zip for mib3 navigation files you certainly need it over the in built ones, they have the TAR file type.

You might find a newer 7 zip. Skoda often if not always mess up making zip files. MartiniB swears by another program....

The new battery will need adaption to the vehicle. Failure to do this will result in problems. There are plenty of good YouTube videos showing how to do battery adaption. Depending on the OBD device you have you may be able to do it yourself.

Thanks for the info and advice. Having watched so many videos I'd say the thing that I'm most apprehensive about is driving the car up the ramps I bought. They are the halfords 2 ton orange ones and there doesn't seem to be much space between the ramp and the bottom of the bumper when put in place. I've got some planks of wood I could probably add to give the car a wee lift up. I'm aware you can get extenders but I'm sure the wood underneath will be fine. And there's also the chance of me over-shooting it over the ramps. I can just picture it, and my wife's face as she watches on after helping me position them in place. 😂

Get a tub of swafega hand cleaner as well you’ll need it

Is the screen shot also showing a problem with a rear light/brake light?

https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/halfords-2-litre-oil-measure-with-spout-739166.html I've got the same problem and this 2 litre jug is graduated and makes oil fills a lot easier. The nozzle is flexible and the filling hole has a lid. You don't get a nozzle lid, but that's not a huge problem.

Youve kind of lost me on your post george ,all i was saying is all engines take a certain capicity of oil ,if you go to a garage they will drain and refill to said capicity and send you on your way ,they wont follow you round for the next three days topping up little bits till their happy.i would have tagged by username george but i dont actually know how to do it 🥴

I had a similar offer from my local dealer - astonishingly it doesn't include the regas, it's just a disinfect of the evaporator.