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This is an owners forum, not a service centre. What you are seeing is a classic case of subject drift - where contributors digress away from the original question. Easy enough to skim past if it's not relevant or interesting to you. If you search the forums for "cambelt" you'll be able to understand the sorry tale of how Skoda UK maintained for years that the cambelt on this engine had be be changed at 5 years / 50,000 miles; unlike every other country they sold this engine in. Then, two years ago, they magically changed their minds. Leaving those of us who'd shelled out for this expensive and unneccessary work, slightly miffed*. That's why you are seeing conflicting information on the interwebs. Your local dealer will be able to say what is appropriate for your region. * Understatement

Watching this jay through kitchen window having peanuts😁

Got some absolutely beautiful roses in our garden: Gaz

Hi markyp27, welcome to the forum, youve already had a look so good stuff. the beat place to post the niggles are in the octy 3 sub section. lads there will help you out. if knocking off the aircon drop the revs then its load related, or if the fans are running on after shutting down alot it could be the dpf struggling to complete a regen. my moneys on the load though i wouldnt worry about it too much. the heat weve been having aircon is needing to work alot harder anyway, so gonna put more draw on the system. if its not just the aircon causing the idle speed increase, check how the battery charge is and how its doing while the alternator is engaged.

Welcome to the forum. It is a Dry Belt. Expensive to change, and up to 2023 Skoda / VW UK was saying at 5 years /50,000 miles. Cost of being done at main Dealers from £800-£1,200. That was revised, UK not a Dust Rich Region, and people not having them done, trading in cars instead and Dealers would have to do them. 6 plus hours they told owners it took. (7.5 hours in the book.) So plenty paid the big money and cars sold with FMDSH and serviced to Guidelines. THEN DEALERS SELLING CARS THAT WERE NOT DONE, SAVED THEM DOING THEM. @Steve2 Where are you seeing that it is a wet belt? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/529390-wet-timing-belt This was pre 2023, but not according to Skoda / VW Group main dealers.

Almost sold my Mk3 Estate. Deal is done... The buyer is a Skoda fan (he told me his current Skoda is the 7th one). He is an ex-Mk3 owner. it was a TDI150 with manual gear box. He has been regretting it for it's comfort. He was amazed about the cleanliness of my Mk3, he's really happy. Now we only have to make the paperwork and payment. My Mk3 should definitely leave by the end of next week. The funny thing is that he lives 15mn from home. Thus I may see may ex-Mk3 from time to time.

Smashing Rainbow this evening (and the rain was very welcome!)

Download link in PM

Varta 700A 70Ah EFB+ Yep the CS One is around £170 still. I did use it on my previous Karoq. I also used MSX 5 on the Karoq.

hi Ahmed. wht Ootohere means is your region of the world - mid east - is more dust prone due to average climate in vehicle manufacturers' definitions than, say, where I am - Ireland - where we get rained on 352 days of the year, and saharan sand storm / dusty winds rarely land here meaning we are a less dusty, mucky and rust prone part of the world..

Re. the heating issue, check if the coolant expansion tank is marked 'Mit Silicat' on the side and check the colour of the coolant, there is a possible issue of the Silicate 'Teabag' contained in the E.V. breaking down and releasing granules into the coolant - partially blocking coolant passages, especially in the heater matrix.

Normally a pipe from the air filter etc is a breather pipe or similar so should probably be left open. Alasdair

The ducklings are growing rapidly. Poor light this evening so unfortunately didn't get a clear shot of the Heron

The worst thing about coasting is the cars coasting and still catching up with slow buggers on a flat road 😂

My best guess is that it is the battery level of your mobile phone, which is Bluetoothed to the car. Did you charge it overnight by any chance? :-)

Was great to be able to be there today. Had a lot of fun in the red thing. Great to put names to new faces and catch up with those I've met previously.

It was at Chetwynd Deer Park Farm TF10 near Telford/Newport

Quite fascinating data: Gaz

Except there is no throwing in of the belt. Lots of strtipping down to then fit the new belt with the correct equipment to set it up, then refitting. 22,000 km only i would be leaving it. Well maybe not the way i drive, but if i was not the driver i might leave it. @AhmadAlmasri1771 Sorry for going off the subject you asked about. Are we any further on from where we got too? Up to you who's advice you accept!

Well, they are but it took a long while for battery technology (and motors) to get to the point where they are where we are with EV's and not all looking and driving like milk floats. However they are likley to be eclipsed by hydrogen vehicles in the next decade. In future there will be a mix of EV's and Hydrogen.

Yeah, my wife's Fabia is (switchable) stop/start with (switchable) DRL and driver "aids" and "assists" and VW complex computer systems and programs, but no, thank gawd, not as much electronic and convenience gubbins as a 2024 car so the battery needs less preventative attention than your 2024 to get your battery life passed the VW 4 years (5 for my wife's car). Surely laptops you plug in the mains! 😁 With the laptops my wife has and had I've noticed a battery power indicator and warning by nothing about health but they were s/h old when she got them, I've no idea about the "smart" (they're not) phones, they don't like me and I don't like them. The dual gauge I pictured is "mechanical" rather than electric on water temp and oil pressure, oil pressure is responsive quickly moving around to a certain extent with temperatures and revs, coolant temperature usually less movement plus pinch of salt accuracy (factory tested at the two sets of dots only). 70s temp gauge is electric two wire as you put, sender and gauge so two points to stray with. As I used to tell me wife you treat them as gauges not "accuracies", having put that the fuel gauge and sender on my last "classic" was more accurate that her at the time brand new modern car (that the Fabia replaced. Before my driving time (late 70s) car batteries need charging and about 60 years later we're back to that. I seem to be the only one to remember (so perhaps on Fantasy Island) that in the 60s electric cars were "he future", and of course electric cars were about before the ancient petrol and diesel puffers we run about in now.

The speeding element of the driving score is completely unreliable as it is based on the speed limit information in the built in satnav - in my case anyway. The car does not have road sign recognition; the satnav database is always out of date (as is any published mapping, TomTom, Google or whoever). Temporary speed limits are not going to be in there either. As for privacy, I gave up with Customer Services and am in email dialogue with the data manager. Under GDPR they are not allowed to store personally identifiable data that is not relevant, and any data that is, only with specific permission. My main complaint is that I can’t even get to the Vehicle Data Access permissions screen to turn it off. Apparently it’s not applicable to my vehicle.

Here's a video with a description of the issue, repair and part numbers of the two different versions. !! SOLVED !! Audi VW Gear Selector Fault B1162 29 Park Position Lock Switch

To my knowledge there are two types of resistor fitted to a 2011 Octy - a standard unit for manual controls and an extended unit for electronic controls. The two types are visually very different and can be seen in the parts catalogue pages below. 2011 Octy mk2 manual control heating system - see #11 2011 Octy mk2 electronic control heating system - see #2

thats fair.. i was just reminded by Ootohere's mention of living near quarry of a funny dust related anecdote. ive read the post linked above, and acxording to that youre vehicle in a dusty region is every 120,000km. but given you have exceptionally low mileage at 22,000km your question is does general age come into play aswell. honestly the only way to answer that is open it up and check the belt condition. but if going to that effort, may as well throw on the new one anyway..

When ACC is on, Coasting is disabled. That's normal. With Traffic Jam Assist (TJA) active, ACC will only resume (car moves) automatically within 3 secs, i.e. if stopped for less than 3 secs. After that, u need to tap the accelerator or pull the cruise stalk for the car to move/resume. With the 19" wheels, many Superb owners have switched to 245/40R19 tyres. Thicker sidewall and wider tyre results in more comfort. It's also cheaper and more readily available.

My car glass is getting sand blasted as the wind brings sharp sand up from the quarry 200 meters away. 2 nights of rain this weekend after nothing for weeks. High dust region right here and now. Angus.

Got it thank you

No not high dust normal Plains and mountains are not desert and sand

Hello everyone, Just registered on the website and saying hi. Currently own a 2016 Octavia 3 2.0 TDi estate. Bought second-hand but love the car after 2.5 years of driving. A couple of niggly little faults which led me to this website. The car is nicely broken in with 115,000 miles - roughly middle-aged. Am looking to keep it going as long as I possibly can as I don't believe cars are disposable items. Look forward to learning as much as I can from you all, and hopefully being able to contribute to discussions. Mark

Thank you both for that info. I will check out the coolant tank tomorrow. I must admit the coolant does seem to have a bit of a film on the surface of the liquid - maybe a flush is needed Thanks again

PS. Your location looks to be a High Dust Region.

Do it when ever you want. I have not checked to see where you are, Dust free Region or not. Not correct 5 years / 100,000 km. Not cheap to do though as you say. They need the equipment and the skills / knowledge. So where is your Local Dealer and was that the service desk staff or workshop staff you were told by? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/532583-help-appreciated-15-tsi-act-wet-or-dry-timing-belt

Driving Instructors AssociationDrivers are in the dark about cars collecting their dataMany modern cars can collect and transmit data about the driver to external parties using integrated internet connection and technology – but are car owners aware that they can do so? Uswitch car i...

Our new cars have been monitoring us since April 2018 when the legal requirement of eCall became a legal requirement on new vehicles https://digital-strategy.ec.europa.eu/en/news/ecall-all-new-cars-april-2018 While this technology was meant to be used for emergency call in the event of an accident it can also be used for a whole lot more information, obviously exactly where you are, how fast you are driving, what time you started & finished your journey, your route etc etc. To the best of my knowledge our cars have an electronic SIM built into the bulkhead that is used to transfer this information. There is still a grey area over who exactly owns this data that is collected on us, and it is not available outside of the servers it is stored on unless the relevant authorities get the OK from a court of law. In this particular case JLR had to hand over the collected information to the police which led to a successful conviction, read from about half way down this article to the section how car technology caught a killer https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-51466273 Big brother is watching us, same as our mobile phones, internet connection etc etc monitoring us in our everyday lives and there's nothing to very little we can do about it, except live completely off grid, and even then................

That is why it is best to use a trickle charger rather than a fast charger. I have never used the fast or rapid charge settings on battery chargers. The problem with some "smart" chargers is they can decide to "fast charge" for themselves. At least with the "dumb" chargers, it was a physical slide switch. For battery maintenance, I can see why you suggest the 4A over the 6A. Especially if these "smart" chargers are not that smart. (Next they will claim they have AI in them😀) If, as suggested by others, Škoda charge £40 for a battery conditioning and top up when they do the servicing, the 4A charger at £30 is a bargain. At the moment, I do a lot of short journeys but every few weeks a couple of journeys at 70 and 160 miles, usually in daylight. So I am hoping that the long journeys do the top-up. However for £30 and the o-rings to hard-wire in a good battery contact it is a no-brainer really and the short urban journeys do a lot of stop-start. Given the "toys" in most cars these days, you would have thought that a battery condition screen in the infotainment would be standard. Like the fuel/speed/distance information.

It's possible you are loosing the earth/ground as all those things stopped working. It might be worth having a look at the wiring loom where it goes into the tailgate. I recently had a problem with my OH's Rover 25. It's quite a problem on them. The wiring had started to break down - the insulation was cracked and some of the conductors were starting to break...and possibly short with each other. I repaired the loom with some suitably coloured wires from an old 1970s MGB loom, which were a lot more flexible than the Rover's wires.

Who knows? Might be worth checking fuses to see if any for the rear of car are loose or a bit coroded or connectors for boot area and brake light. Just wondering if theres an earth thats poor?. Hopefully its a one of but at least you can get it open from the inside

I took it to my local dealer who identified additional issues at their request (I’d booked it in already but still was in line with what they wanted). Still no response from dealer but Manufacturer called and said they agree to fix if I bring it back to them only. Even though they said get it assessed by third party and get them to do work which is now not on the table. I think due to level of work cost factors are in play for them if it’s repaired. Simply put if they did the work like they should we wouldn’t be in this mess and I do not trust them to rectify the works given the issues over just two weeks. I’ve emailed the dealership no response so left with sending the letter of rejection to see if they respond to that.

No, still waiting. Collected mk4 L&K estate mid December when it was promised as an update. All good except that. Loading the boot and accidentally my foot strayed under the car. Rear hatch closed and I discovered the auto-stop-on-obstacle works. Obstacle being me.

Hello there ! I should have updated you a while ago but many things happened. I had a lot of trouble with the car over the past few months. First time rebuilding a crashed car wasn't easy as you might have guessed. Apparently my initial thoughts about a crash switch and and reason why the car wouldn't start were before I had the car on my hands and therefore there is no such thing 🙂. Furthermore because my experience came from a simple Felicia without all the extras (hydrolic steering, air conditioning ect.) I never noticed the difference all the pulleys had and ordered a wrong water pump with accessory belt. I also had a problem with the electrical since the wires were cut and I transfered my other wiring harness without ac which led to the radiator fan not working. Some days later I got the car functioning normally but the suspension was very harsh, almost non existent, the car was leaning to the right and when stationary it lifted and got back down on its own. Later after replacing the rear suspension again from my old car the transmission mount was making a noise when accelerating, it was the whole engine moving. I suspect with that and the vibrations plus the crash the engine mount also was loose. One of the three bolts holding the mount was only just a bit tight ready to come off. The water pump (engine mount) also was starting to get pushed off its place. Despite that I kept driving the car (I tightened the bolts and pushed the mount in its place) and after some kilometers my engine stopped working after a first gear pull. All the coolant went to the oil system forcing me to tow the car and fix it again. New front suspension, new water pump, new transmission mounts, new accessory belt, new transmission and clutch kit, fresh oil, coolant and all that. ( The coolant escaped due to a failing tappet in the engine head, when pressurized it shot out). I got the car to start again only for the radiator to start leaking FROM EVERYWHERE. Mind you it didn't leak before. After replacing that everything is working normally. I drive it daily with some minor flaws.

This is as bad as my efficiency is getting at the moment when the temp is between 12 to 20 degrees C. Much the same in town doing the odd couple of miles several times a day or out of town on 60 mph bendy roads. AC on or roof and windows open. About £1 for 60 miles charging on the 3 pin. (All season 16" 195 tyres on, not the 17" 205 ECO tyres that are OEM.)

Much cheapness

The Micra seems like a good replacement for Leaf local runabout in a few years time, second hand. Got to get wife to sit in one (or R5) to see how she likes it. Initial impression isn't good, Nissan hasn't brought enough of their design elements to the R5, feels like a R5 with restyled lights. I see there's a Dacia Spring in our area, a few roads away. Along with a super bright Wallbox charge point that shines like the sun in the night.

Just taken delivery of my Race Blue 85 Sportline...very pleased with it so far, and looks much better in real life than the pics and videos. However, after downloading the App, i am unable to get remote access for the Battery Range and Target temperature functions, despite being signed up for the Care Connect services and all the others. Has anyone else had this issue and if so how did you rectify it? I click on Activate as its says its a paid service but the screen just goes to my profile page. Aslo can you set the Target Temperature schedule from the car without the app , I could do this in the Tesla Any help would be appreciated.

Today an engine bay detail.

A quick stop for some snaps as it's been a while.

I had the exact same problem on my 2015 octavia 1.8tsi, and after taking the heater matrix out for a flush with no effect and checking and removing the silica bag I found the answer on another thread here. After changing the magnetic valve the car feels completely new, heat comes out of the vents after just 1min of driving instead of 20min. On a sidenote, I almost sent back the part that fixed it because there were two different magnetic valves there, and one of them are different that the one in the thread. But after looking for a second time I found the proper one. 😄😄

Finally removed the marble. It’s wedged in the right side foot well air duct. Metal marble as well so could’ve used a magnet but hey ho Didn’t remove all the trims, only enough to dislodge the vent. Will definitely buy mesh to cover the vent, any recommendations?

Might consider vacuum before attempting to removing trims.