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Just ordered, my son actually, a new electric mini, the E rathervthan the SE so the small 36 kwh battery. Lighter than the SE with the 49 kwh battery and elreports say better dynamically for it. O to 60 in 7 seconds with its 181 hp motor and 290 Nm of torque. Range is still quite low and as we took out the test car it wad showing 105 miles of range with about 80% charge but probably being driven in Gocart / sport setting mostly during tests. Just a hoot to drive and much lad will have the option of driving the Scenic or the ZE50 Zoe if he needs a 250 / 200 mile range car. British Racing Green, level 1 pack so head up display, adaptive lighting, heated seats etc. Due off the boat from Great Wall Motors in August. Be glad when they are made here in the Midlands ie next year as will be BMW MINI to avoid those EU, US Anti Dumping Duties !!

Not much of a sunset earlier, but a colourful Sun nonetheless..................

Couple from my album

Depends if @Biggles33 has a petrol or diesel VRS (he doesn't say) - petrols have a timing chain but diesels have a timing belt.

Wow, £150 per month lease, 1500 miles per month, ~£150 per month fuel saving. Did the Mrs say want a free car?

I've had my Cupra Born for just over a week now so it's early days but here's a bit of info that might help. It's a V2 59kWh with a couple of extra option packs added that I think gives it a P11D value of just under £40k - I got it mainly because it was about the cheapest car on Octopus salary sacrifice that I found palatable. Home charger installation was easy and free although I've only used it twice due to doing most charging at work. It's a small battery but based on my motorway driving so far (bear in mind this is summer and cruising at 70-75mph) I am getting about 3.5 miles/kWh which gives you a summer motorway range of around 200 miles. This is fine for my usage as I have a diesel for long trips but obviously if this will be your only car then it's important to consider range/charging speed/cost etc if you ever venture more than 100 miles from home. Car seems overall good quality and surprisingly roomy in the back (no transmission tunnel helps). It apparently has the same legroom as a BMW 5 series and I can well believe that. Boot is OK but nothing special, probably similar to a VW Golf. Looks wise is down to personal opinion of course but I certainly think it looks a lot nicer/more interesting than an ID3 which is more or less the same car. In terms of driving it's been good so far, very quiet (which in many ways I'm not so keen on) but smooth and punchy. It's also nice to not have to be so concerned about driving efficiently as the 'fuel' cost is so low. Mine has the Pilot pack which means it pretty much drives itself on the motorway - very relaxing. The feature which I'm most looking forward to using is pre-heating in winter as it's the thing I miss most in my Superb (my previous Volvo XC60 had it). You can also pre-cool it down in summer which I have used a couple of times but it's not as important as pre-heating in my opinion. Any questions then be free to ask!

Yes there's a subtle difference that doesn't get mentioned. The SD cards were for MIB2.5 which was on the pre-facelift version. Facelift versions moved to MIB3 which has been a little bit rubbish from time to time depending largely on the software. Updates are done through the USB-C port you have in the "ashtray" or, if you have one (as it was an option) the USB-A port under the armrest (will be on the rear face of the storage space). Your software version is 304. There is also a 306, 308, 324, 330 and 332 is the latest. To get to the latest, you need to update to 308 but after that you can jump straight to 332. These are about 4Gb each so you don't need a very big USB stick BUT your maps look out of date a little too and I would suggest a 64Gb and its nearly 32Gb and a 32gb stick might not hold it all (I didn't bother trying and just went straight for 64). My ftp is here: Travs' mega.nz FTP site so feel free to download them. Unpack to the root of the USB stick and update. Haven't tried copying them both onto the stick, but I would keep them separate just to avoid any issues. Hope that's everythiing - give us a shout on here (@ me so I get the notification) if you run into any problems.

Good luck. When you think about it logically it just has to be the alternator, there is quite literally nothing else it could be. That wire only goes to the alternator and the parasitic current disappears when you disconnect the wire.

The car is still at the auto electrician's went in on the 20th May. So I have no codes but the app will be for me when I get it back. Adrian

Mine does it too https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530665-noise-when-interior-fans-turned-on/ Is it like this? Pxl 20250223 130606925.mp4

Presumably you mean 100k. What @PetrolDave said... find a new garage, they don't have a clue what they're talking about. To broaden your search you can search for VW/audi specialist garages too. Also depends on whether the chain has actually failed, in which case i'd just scrap the car at that point. Otherwise £2500 is cheap for an engine rebuild!

These cars have timing chains, not belts. They will last about 150,000 miles unless they have stretched or a tensioner has failed. Symptoms of failed tensioner/stretched chain is ticking/metallic rattling. (despite there being a million other things in the engine bay that make this sound, too) I was quoted £1800 by a VW specialist for mine. I didn't go ahead with it though.

Edited my previous post :) I've had a look through the wiring diagrams and I can't see a switched ignition feed in the door loom.

Sorry, the 13" wheels would be 5.0 or 5.5 width and the 14" would be 5.5 or 6.0 width. Based on usual fittings when these were normal fit on most vehicles (say 1970 to early 1990s).

@skoda_cat Well, FWIW "standard" spec would be a 155(/80)R13, 165/70R13 or 185/60R14, probably with an S, T or H speed rating (depending on availability).

You are free to do as you please but that is probably very wasteful, car batteries must remain one of if not the most oversold car parts, replaced prematurely out of choice in your case or through over-use, abuse and neglect and lack of knowledge, that more drivers had more of with previous generations of cars and people.

Ive put some sound deadening behind the insulation on my monte just last night infact Had some spare, does seem to quiet it down even more.

Yeap, all true, and I've seen those PDFs before from you thank you, just general interest. You can only expect the chap to get samples from fuel stations he goes to, unless as he said people send him samples, all non-laboratory conditions, just general info for those that 5 and 10 mean exactly spot on 5 or 10 always. Note I put "up to" (and locations and as at dates) on the, er, notes.

Hi, thank you for the reply. I am trying to lock the car when I am inside and driving. Previously I pressed the button under the radio to lock the doors and it would stay illuminated to indicate they are locked. The button still locks the doors but the button doesnt stay illuminated after being pressed. I had a quick look in the manual but couldnt see anything. I had the the car resprayed recently so I'm not sure if they disconnected the battery or knocked a wire and that has caused the issue.

Result from testing back in 2012 for Tesco PLC of Tesco Momentum 99 & AN Other.. 388380a097b04fe693a8c27db8bb4974 (1).pdf 6ca06d648b9541e78fa838fece4a1a23 (1).pdf

They are not all the same by region or by season. Be that E5 or E10. Storage, and which depots from, that received in the base fuel. Lower Octane /Energy than sold to you & bought & paid for is fraud. They are to meet as a minimum. If not then that is a matter for the Trading Standards / Authorities. HMRC. There is Summer & Winter Formulation, and into the UK can come fuel from the Continent after March and that can be Winter Formulation. ' Less Hygroscopic'.

If memory serves it's a pull up inline/along the door opening. Be aware of the curtain airbags behind the trim 😉 Good luck

All Audi's (S3, A4, S4, RS4) and Skoda's (Fabia, Octavia) I've owned have had the low fluid warning including those without Xenon headlamps?

What's printed on a Dealership invoice may be some but not all correct in actual detail, it might be a set text or how the person on the keyboard or computer remembers or interprets the "worksheets" and/or could be out of date to their current practice - perhaps economical with accuracy and even perhaps truth. As with many car manufacturers VW seems to have the car owners do some of their research and development by real world use of their products where they might find their compromises in designs and build and suppliers mistakes (never VW engineers mistakes or omissions). VW have said wrong oil in their DSG boxes before and change their VW oil specs and coolant specs - no doubt from progressive developments of course (some from their real world use product users).

This might help on wheel and tyre sizes. It is not an exhaustive list, just something I put together when having a similar dilemma. Ignore the 'reading at 30mph' column heading, I think it should be 'actual speed when the speedo says 30mph'. Are you thinking steel or alloy wheels?

This is indicative of a worn piston seal in either the master or slave cylinder. It does not have to result in a visible leak. It will probably get worse with time. The fix is easy but messy and time consuming. Unless you can be sure which piston is misbehaving then both need to be looked at. A main dealer will probably advise changing the the master and slave cylinders which might be cheaper given what main dealer labour charges are. If you have a good indy dealer locally take it to them.

Called several dealers this morning and they are all telling me it should be 0w20 508.00. But when asking why have they used 502.00 in all previous services, I can't get a straight answer! Could be just a generic/old description in the invoices and 0w20 used.

Well here's what happened FWIW. Motorway valued it around £15,000 Autotrader around £14,500 I decided to stick an ad on Autotrader and see what happened. Before the offer posts they offer the chance to sell it via their 'Dealer Auction' service where it goes out to dealers in an online auction for a couple of days. As it's free I thought I might as well give it a go. Once it finished I got a phone call to discuss the results. Highest offer was about £13,700 which I wasn't happy with. They asked a couple of questions and then phoned back later and said the dealer said he would go up to £13,850 on the basis that I had the parcel shelf (it was missing in my photos). I rejected this too. They tried to put the frighteners on me saying it takes on average of 30 days to sell the car privately and I would have teams of boy racers coming round to floor the GTI. I put it on Autotrader as a standard ad at £14,750. Later the same day I had a call from BigWantsYourCar saying they could offer the full asking price. I sent them a few extra pictures highlighting any damage (few scratches and a couple of the alloys kerbed slightly) but they maintained the price. Dropped it round at the nearest site to me (they also offer free home collection). A chap came out and spent probably 15-20 minutes looking over the car including a short drive around the car park. The moment of truth arrived - I had been expecting at least some kind of attempt to try and knock me down on price but he simply came in and said he was happy with it. He then took the service documents, V5 etc and came back a few minutes later saying I should have an email from them which I did. Entered my bank details and a few seconds later the money was in the account! Overall very happy with the way it all went - very hassle free and not trying to negotiate on the price was a big plus! I might have managed to get slightly more for it from a private seller but selling to a dealer was way less hassle as well as less risky. For anyone who's thinking of selling a car I would definitely give them a go. Oh and WBAC's offer was £2,000 less than I got (and before they try and beat you down too...)

Morning, good day so far, despite it being a work day and the flogging rain that started about 10mins ago 😂 welcome to Brisky, hope you enjoy the community and gain some knowledge and hopefully can share some knowledge too!

As about the G12 plus i have some results after some Km distance. Of course since i changed the radiator i have not the same situation to compare, the system should be worked better since the old radiator had a lot ''in it's back'' after almost 25 years of use. I use the TC-6 and the Total indication (with the Greek letter Σ) to compare the fuel consumption. 94592 Km and i had 40,5 litres 94619 Km and i had 43,6 litres This was in City Traffic only, It's not the distance for which you can draw correct conclusions, it was 11.48 ltr/Km or 24.61 British MPG (not bad) After a while i had to make a trip (National Highway and Mountain Route but not in high rpm) 94778 Km and i had 53,4 litres ,that’s 6.16 ltr/Km or 45.86 British MPG (very good) To be continued...

Can you install an upgraded engine from newer model year in 3 hours? Basically, this guy bought a £600 first-gen Leaf that originally had 30 kWh. The battery was removed to function as home battery by the previous owner. All details in another video on his channel. This video details the guy installing a 62 kWh battery from second-gen Leaf. The 3 hour install time also includes rear suspension upgrade to deal with increased battery weight. My take away is that Leaf battery swap is very simple to do, just lift up the battery using 2 trolley jacks and line it up, screw it in. Finally connect the orange cables and add a canbus translator to make it compatible.

As about the lambda sensor, learn from my mistake. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/ Buy the original and not some aftermarket and do not believe the seller ''according to the refference this is for you''. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/page/2/#findComment-5653435 Whatever your Felicia 1.6 has from the factory search and buy a new one exactly the same. We have plain OBD or OBD I and not OBD II so VAG-COM works fine with out port, some OBD II scanner devices not always. OBD11 is a scanner tool but has not those fancy applications that OBD II has. https://obdeleven.com/skoda In the past i have found and posted this: So forget the OBD II (also known as OBD 2).

If it fits and does what you want, it's fine.👍

For non badge snobs just want cheap reliable transport for maybe up to an 80 mile a day commute. & then day off transport.

Just picked up a 2014 rallye green estate and this post is great for inspiration. Your car looks 👌

We're moving to North Hykeham at the end of June, if all goes well, so maybe we'll see each other around in the county and can compare our noises!

Put it this way, there's roughly 10p/mile saving vs economical diesel of slightly smaller size (that number come from Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI vs Tesla Model Y AWD). So 75 miles a day, 5 days a week, ~4 weeks a month = 1500 miles. That's roughly £150 saving straight away. Not accounting for free electricity in the lease agreement. Of course there's no cost advantage compared to used cars. But would people do the same savings maths buying brand new ICE vehicle? A comparable used EV to an use ICE vehicle would be something like Leaf/Zoe. Buy for similar price, only use it to do the commute, fully use the battery daily for maximum saving. I did this for ~3 years before COVID. Comparable ICE vehicle would be an ICE car of similar size to Renault 5, but for £150 less per month on lease due to additional fuel cost. Which car would you prefer?

From a Skoda point of view, I think only one of the Enyaqs creeps below £40K? if you don't mind a smaller boot, Elroqs give you more choice including a bigger battery option. I believe rear seat space in the Elroq is similar to the Enyaq. 75 mile a day commute adds up in service costs and fuel - I used to do a big commute in a Fabia 1.9TD so the aforementioned Polo 1.9TD sounds spot-on! However it's still worth adding up what you pay in fuel per year, as it takes a lot of fuel savings to offset a cost of a new car, and even cheap rate overnight electricity starts to add up if you're using over 20 kWh per working day.

There was a sixth gear upgrade for the 1.9TDi PD100 box. Bit pricey so I never sorted it on mine.

Same gearing as yours! Desperately needed either an extra gear or a better fifth. You acclimatise eventually...

This error stays in car logs and will be visible to them even if does not pop up again, and that's enough to get it replaced under warranty. Also, if I could give just one advice to anyone with this car... go get extended warranty.

I also saw some Russian guides how to do it yourself. Supposedly it is trivial - there is just some contacts that need bending. But I don't think this is the issue with my car since this only appears during driving ... I am not that much bothered by the error that I would go and try to fix it myself. SK_RU_2207_03_4_я_версия_Ремонт_селектора_КПП_OCTAVIA_A8_Событие-1.pdf

The white/purple/pink thing is a telephone antenna :) The blind spot unit is the black square thing above and to the right of it.

Given the age of the car (and depending on spec), shouldn't these map updates also be available over-the-air using either the car's eSim or your phone's connection when connected via CarPlay or Android Auto? Again - assuming the OP has a valid Infotainment Online subscription?

Thanks for the reply pete I will get a thread repair kit ordered. Ps: the window motor you fixed last year for me on the same car is still going strong !

If the fluid level is ok then I reckon its either master or slave cylinder thats letting fluid past seals if pressing slowly. If the fuid level is dropping its a leak somewhere. When you press firmly theres enough pressure to operate clutch even with either a leak or bad seals. When pressing slowly theres not enough pressure. Check fluid and if its low then check for leaks.

Tonight's sunset...........

And I did just that! It's not a massive difference all things considered, but it's a step in the right direction nevertheless. I've once again been conversing with Pete about soundproofing and we discussed the idea of fitting a diesel undertray which is larger, and comes with a spongy type of soundproofing. The replacement ones online do not, so I'm going to do some research and development (read as trial and error) to see which fabrics would suit it best. That's a post-payday job as I've already ordered enough for this car off this month's payslip!

How about this for a quality tow car? Warrants a better caravan though surely 🤔

My TDI Mk4 VRS, in love with the colour!