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However.... Just had a breakthrough, finally. I was making some test leads from the cables of the original oxygen/lambda sensors, to enable easier double-checking and load testing of the loom wiring between sensor connectors and ECU. One in particular was very oily all over the outside of the wires, and after cutting and stripping with the intention of fitting some 4mm sockets to each wire, it was apparent that the copper within the insulation was also oily. I faintly remember reading once upon a long time ago that a reference level of oxygen is ported into the sensor down the gaps between conductor strands, sounds mad doesn't it? Anyway, that got me googling 'oil contamination of oxygen sensor connectors', and that got me to here: https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/assets/Uploads/Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf Doesn't mention oxygen movements but does clearly indicate that an oily set of connector contacts can be problematic. Luckily, I had a spare 6-way connector of the right flavour for the precat sensor, with a few inches of wire hanging out. Cut and shut that into the engine bay loom and hey presto, bugger me gently with a chainsaw, sensor 1 code gone and not returning. I was close to seeking professional help on this, for the car and my mental state. 🙂 Just need to find a 4-way connector for the post-cat sensor now. 🥳

You really should try a VAG group MEB based EV, I think you would love it in standard 'D' mode. Sounds like we have a similar driving style and D mode is great. (I know you need an enormous car due to being the BFG, just saying it would probably suit you 😊)

The new car market is still not in a good state for finding a new ICE car or maybe even for finding a "good" slightly used ICE car. I'd find it very difficult to find a small engined car that has a "trustworthy" engine, so my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT was treated to a complete suspension rebuild last to minimise the possibility of ended up with a broken spring at an awkward moment(been there done that too many times in the past. So replacing that car remains a distant task hopefully and I'd think that it will be replaced with a small EV. My 2011 Audi S4 6MT was bought in 2013 to replace a 13 year old "bought new 2000 VW Passat 4Motion" and I wanted to grab a 6MT S4 while lowish age/mileage ones were still available - I have not yet faced up to what happens or gets bought after its time is up! We don't really need 2 cars either as we are both retired, but as said "you can't take it with you" so in retirement why not continue with 2 cars - means that the Audi S4 mileage is disgracefully(for some) low, but each of our cars have different uses, so I'm okay with that. I do admit that eventually we will only be running a single car and it does look a lot like it will be an EV - or a slightly used last of the bigger engined VW Golfs, or an Audi S3 4 door, I'm stuck in the "I prefer a saloon" mode. Front dampers leaking, especially LHS front ones, and especially the ones with electronic control - a well known VW Group trait, if indeed they are DDC then they will be Monroe and new Monroe ones are available at what seems to be sensible prices - well very sensible when compared with VW Group prices for VW Group "overbranded" same Monroe items. I've found changing cars can be a horrible experience, for me selling on my bought slightly used 1991 Vauxhall Cavalier GSI 4X4 in 2000 for a factory ordered imported new VW Passat 4Motion was not the "improvement" I had anticipated, that GSI 4X4 had been just too good for what I wanted from a car, getting the 2011 Audi S4 did bring the "improvement" I had anticipated as it was just as "good" as the Cav GSI 4X4 with lots of added enjoyment. Same really for my wife's car changings chosen by me, going from an ex channel islands 6 months old 1992 Fiesta 1.1 Ghia to a slightly used 1995 Fiesta 1.6Si with the Zetec engine - good move, then going from that to a factory order imported 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS - not a good move - heated seats and electric sunroof and a drop of 15PS in a heavier car was never going to work for her - or me, going from that to a factory ordered 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110 6MT was an excellent move!

I've had two Superb models in the past and they were both just about the best normal cars (ignoring toys!) I've ever owned, saying that a Saab 9000 in the past was up there. However yes they were pretty low down to get in and out, Not quite an issue for us yet but my 87 year old Mum struggled getting in and out of my previous mkII. However once I was in either Superb I found then excellent re accommodating my 6ft4" and large frame, the larger front doors making a huge difference. Unfortunately due to retirement we've ultimately decided to down size to one car between me and Mrs BJ and she finds the Superb toooo big to drive. Driving positions / seats are an individual thing as well - we are all different. I don't like the more sit up and beg driving position of some SUV's but might have no option as we get older! Basically the Superb is er "Superb!"

Hello @petrbazant , You can use DoIP interface! Both Sk Mk4 and VcTool support this protocol. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EINwq3c Can you share more details how did you find and changed the sound datasets with VcTool? Maybe if you have some spare time to create a DYI/video tutorial? Thank you Cheers

Maybe not, but many people have done. I've even witnessed it a few times, someone sliding backwards down a very slight hill with spinning wheels when I was able to cruise past them with little difficulty (yes I did feel just a little smug😅😬).

I know it's going off topic a bit and I'm not minimising the need of driving to conditions but suggesting that snow/winter tyres don't increase safety is just simply not correct. Never mind the fact that the increased traction can often be the difference between getting somewhere at all or not (let alone more safely).

I had a karoq for 10 months. Yes easy to get in and out of but the ride was poor, the seating position poor and the seat base aggressively angled which gave me back ache on longer trips. So purchased a nearly new Superb and couldn't be happier. You won't find me doing the SUV thing again for a long time.

I recently part exchanged my manual 2023 1 5 TSi SE L (in the free blue) for a new 1.5 TSi DSG Sportline Edition (in Race blue). I've now covered 750 miles and have a few observations. The matrix headlights are truly exceptional and are probably the most impressive feature of the new car. The Auto-dip main beam works well and they are a revelation in darkness. To my ears the Columbus system sounds a little better than the Amundsen in the SE L, although I'm unsure of technical differences (speakers etc) beyond the frustration of loosing the physical knobs from the older unit. The screen is marginally bigger on the Columbus, but in practice it is a little more cumbersome in operation. I'm pleased to see I now have a full complement of auto-dimming mirrors (only the interior and drivers mirror are in a 2023 SE L). The DSG box is certainly a better match with the 1.5 TSi engine than the manual. It's a pleasure to finally be free of thoughts of stalling the car in traffic. It revs slightly lower at 70 MPH than the manual, although early indications are it is around 10% less fuel efficient than the manual. I'll reserve final judgement until I have filled it a few times though. The electric tailgate (and foot operation) is handy although not sure why it can only be opened, but not closed, from the drivers door? Concerns regarding leaks and reliability aside (I'm a former Yeti Panoramic roof victim!!) it is great to be back in a car with a large opening glass roof (which is under manufacturers warranty for 3 years!). Predictably the numerous driver 'aids' have proved a source of irritation. On occasion I turn them off, but more often than not tolerate the tugging at the wheel and numerous bings & bongs😬 I thought I would find the autonomous cruise control useful, but in practice find I actually prefer the simplicity of the 'dumb' cruise control in the older car. The Sportline front seats are (for me) less comfortable than the SE L seats and appear less 'premium'. I do miss the alcantara of the SE L seats. I lost Varioflex rear seats though am pleased to now have a proper parcel shelf, rather than a mesh roller blind. Pleased to see all interior lights are now LED, as are the front fog lights, although suspect this makes them less functional than Halogen in actual fog 😁 I miss the central storage box from the SE L. This has been a feature since Yeti days and added a useful storage area, so I can't for the life of me think why Skoda would have binned it? The roof-mounted storage box was lost as a consequence of sunroof controls. I had a front and rear Road Angel Dashcam fitted (hard wired) which has largely killed Dab reception. I understand this happens as a consequence of the Dashcam's permanently enabled Wi-Fi. Strangely the same brand Dashcam did not similarly impact either a previous Suzuki, or current FIAT🤔 The Internet Radio sounds considerably better than Dab (? higher bitrate), but in order to use it I have to manually connect to my phones hot-spot. The only alternative would be to purchase a data connection for the car, which I suspect I won't do. Not sure if there is a method of automating the cars connection to my phones Wi-Fi hot-spot? This car has 3 years of Infotainment online and connect services, whereas these expired after 1 year with the previous car. There is a new feature known as 'Traffication', which expires after 1 year. I can't see how this provides much additional functionality over Waze / Google maps, so more than likely won't renew. I had paid to extend remote access on the SE L (I thought it worthwhile as it provided the option to remotely lock and unlock the car - a previous KESSY equipped car locked my keys in which necessitated breaking a window!), although no refund was forthcoming from Skoda when I cancelled the remaining subscription. Swopping insurance from the old to new car brought a significant (15%) reduction in premium! I enquired why and was told as a consequence of the extra 'safety' features of the newer car🤷. The ice scraper is no longer translucent green and there is no longer a method of securing the rear seat belt buckles to stop them rattling when not in use. The tyre pressure sticker is no longer behind the fuel flap. Wireless AA and Apple Carplay work faultlessly, although my Galaxy S23 gets incredibly hot when running AA and wirelessly charging. I am definitely not a fan on the 19" alloys and low profile tyres. The tyres offer barely any protection to the rim and we've already kerbed a diamond cut alloy😳 After reading another thread on here I may opt to purchase 17" Skoda alloys and switch to all-season tyres at some point. This car comes with Dynamic Chassis Control. I tried all the options and find Comfort suits the car well, although frustratingly it defaults to Normal after each restart. Suspect this isn't an option I would have separately paid for - possibly more relevant to a more sporting vehicle with greater performance potential? 17" wheels, a higher profile tyre and DCC on Comfort would be a pleasant combination though👌 The virtual dash has a few more options than the simpler offering in the SE L, although in practice offers little additional functionality. I initially thought the full-screen Satnav display looked impressive, but in practice I'd rather see this on the central infotainment display and just have a simple direction arrow on the dash in front of me. This DSG Sportline Edition was 5% more costly to buy new than the manual SE L it replaced, which I guess may reflect the Karoq is soon to be replaced? All in all I probably should have bought a DSG equipped Karoq first time around!

Just had MOT today. Passed. No advisories! I love this car. Best car I've ever owned. Had it for 17 years and found no reason to change it. Bought it at 4 years old with 27k on the clock. Now done 140k. Not bad for a 21 year old, eh?

They have drive modes, power levels, advanced traction control, dynamic traction control, Anti Slip Regulation and drivers can modulate the accelerator, and use appropriate or inappropriate tyres. They do actually test them around the world in extremes of weathers. PS. I have read Winter tyres a few times in the threads above. All Seasons as in for All seasons including colder are Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter UK type tyres with some more summer bias or more winter. Treads and compounds to choose from/ I know the Tyres VW Group fit for import into the UK are there All Year with many cars, there is lost in translation, EU to English, American English and even English English or UK English. Everyone is a driving god... Amazeballs, this Influencer was given one with Adaptive Suspension, well in his imagination of feeling the difference while rolling along. He is so used to a big fat inefficient sports machine, yet he never crashes and burns. 'AC on is not making a sound', it is the fan speed that will make a sound, or not. Taking it out of town was just too simple an idea to be able to 'open it up'. Dum and dim.

Just put the car in ECO mode would help. Scenic has 4 different "mapping". Perso mode is configurable. Traction control is very good, sometimes too good as takes bit of fun out of it. Tyre wear does seem a bit higher than my Arkana is both the Zoe and Scenic but that is expected as vehicles are couple of hundred kilos heaver and the torque does eat the tyres a bit quicker. Tyre sizes of 16 and 19 with not too crazy widths make replacing quite cheap. Prius added a little 10hp lecky motor to get going in snow in some versions. New EVs are now expected to not even have rear disc brakes and only regen breaking units which is an interesting move to say the least !

I thank you for your suggestion, but I can't see how having the instant torque available that so many EV drivers willingly point out is there and hence their brilliant performance from a standing start is a benefit when driving on snow without the addition of some sort of advanced traction control like that found on of road type vehicles?

I will order this DoIP cable and try with VcTool. Will report in few weeks.

I try it today. My notebook dont see ELM327 in bluetooth devices.. i dont know why..

Hi , really interested to read your appraisal of your new car. My previous cra had an intelligence lighting system and the faster you drove the greater the range of the head lights I totally agree with the comment regarding the car headlights , Bi Xenon and they are awful , not far of dangerous IMO. The headlights are really bright to look at but don't illimate the road. I don't really use the car on the winter so not a major issue.

I saw an Elroq parked up earlier this week, it is a very nice looking car in person!

I've gone for the same spec as you apart from keeping the the 20" wheels. First choice was the hyper green which looks great in the photo on my main monitor but on a laptop it looked more yellow so not as good, but without actually seeing it. It is difficult to tell. Next was the velvet red until the family got involved my son said you will look like a boy racer in green and in red it's just a failed Ferrari. Bit gutted🤣. So it's back to black again. 12 - 16 weeks I was told. Which feels like a lifetime. Hope the green looks spot on👍

Speak with Kieran at https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/ he'll know what can and can't be done.

In the app go to Profile -> Paid Services The tere is Powerpass Plan, then Skoda Connect Services You should have : Care Connect - Remote Access Infotainment services. Both entries will show an active until date. tapping either will show you what you get on each.

Hello there, Fellow Breathers! I'm literally here to mine those niggly bits of info about the car that never appear in the manuals... Happy to share my limited knowledge/tips/tricks etc as well. Currently cutting about in a 2022 Superb Mk. III - clocked up 107k this morning! Previous Superb got to 141k (3.5 years old) before it ate the DSG.....

Had similar problems. Leaking at valve. I got the tyre service to rremove tyres and tidied up valve hole and used a black sealant which has been brilliant. Been two years now and no probs. Sealant is rubber like and does a great job. Pic of what I used. Its also excellent if the rims are a bit coroded.

There should be a sticker on the bonnet slam panel with what oil to use. Mine says VW508.00/ VW509.00 OW-20. 1.5 Tsi.

Was going to do my old 08 plate but gave up as the bolts were solid and didn't want to risk snapping them or breaking anything internal. Been trying to spray with releasant but difficult to get to. Not sure if once removed it needs realigned? I was going to mark up the original position and try and replace the same. I ended up replacing arms and a few bushes and waxoiled the rest. You will need the concentric bolts that adjust the rear camber and will have to get a 4 wheel alignment. I used FEBI and got the correct parts via FEBI parts finder. Alasdair

@Ootohere To answer your questions, the very simple answer is err, no, I'm a very relaxed driver, not in the slightest bit aggressive, I never ever let the car coast up to the point where I almost come to a halt. I do most of driving in the ECO mode with lots of coasting, but I always apply brakes well before I'm anywhere near stopping. I do this because not only because it activates the brake lights for the benefit of others behind me, but it also disengages coast mode and brings the transmission back into play and thus engine braking also works, just as your regen does. Adaptive cruise control will also automatically switch on the brake lights and I have been told by family who have followed along a stretch of road that switches many times between 60 and 40mph that my brake lights are annoying from where I flick the speed settings between 60 and 40 as I know that plod will often site a mobile camera just past the 40mph signs to catch those that are not paying attention and have not already slowed to 40. Never use the gears to slow down, etc as you said to accelerate out of the corner, as the auto box does all of that for me, even when coasting or in manual mode, it will always select the correct gear to enable a smooth acceleration out of the corner / bend, that's the whole point of a automatic is it not? I have always kept the OEM standard type of tyre on cars all year round and have driven many hundreds of thousands miles with no loss of control, in adverse conditions / weather it the drivers responsibility to ensure that they are driving in the correct manner to reflect the prevailing conditions, not rely on snow tyres, etc to help them out. When was the last time you saw a bus driver or a chauffeur driven limousine like a Rolls Royce wear snow tyres, they are not needed if the correct attitude of the driver is in play, the professional driver just allows more time to do the trip in at a slower and safer pace, simples.

I recently swapped my MIB2 Amundsen for a Columbus. Yes, you will need both the screen and the glovebox unit. You will need to modify the display Farka connector on both ends as they are keyed and the new screen uses a different key. Trimming the connector with a sharp knife is easy enough. The other connectors/wiring will fit without modification. After fitting, you will need to remove component protection, add FEC/SWAP entitlements, upload the correct dataset and also rode the new glovebox unit to suit your car. If you go down the unofficial route, you can remove CP and add all FEC/SWAP codes with various free tools. However, you will be left with component protection fault codes in the headunit and CAN gateway which I don't believe effect anything. If you go down the official route and use ODIS online, everything will work apart from navigation as your cars VIN only has entitlement for MIB2 std maps. You can use the same free tools to add the MIB2 high map entitlement, it's also worth doing Gracenote and Electronic Voice Amplifier at the same time. This will leave you with no fault codes if done properly.

@Graham Butcher Do you just use your brakes to slow down, decelerate & never using the gears in a Manual or Auto / DSG. Nipping on and not letting a driver behind know you are going to slow down, coming down 2 gears into a corner then accelerating out without braking to get that tailgater off your arse? As it is it is not really 'Disabling' if it is choosing a level, well no more than switch on Coasting or Stop / Start, or speed limiter, cruise control, is enabling or disabling. Heavy vehicles are dangerous, heavy cars on OEM tyres as fitted for the UK but used / driven in adverse conditions just as they are in ideal weather are dangerous. As far as brake lights on EV,s, there are some that do as required by legislation and the brake lights come on automatically because of the speed of the retardation. Braking, without brakes applied. ...................... Mini brake lights come on automatically under fast deceleration, max regen. That is default mode. @9 minutes. His bad. It is not 'Barely braking' You are not braking, as you are not touching the brake pedal. You just lift off the accelerator. BEV or ICE vehicles and with Adaptive Cruise Control being used the car might well have the brake lights coming on.

(I've not watched the TV show, It's been years since I've watched broadcast TV) The physical friction brakes will always out-perform any tyre-to-road friction. So during emergency braking, regen braking would not make a difference. The only difference is that, if driving manually, from driver's reaction decision to brake to activating the brakes will see EV with higher regen start slowing down the vehicle before foot is on the brake pedal. A few mph difference at most.

Yep. I've been meaning to do this for a long time but without any VAG diagnostic tools I kept forgetting to ask garage to do it when it went in for a service. This time I didn't!!

@Graham Butcher Try driving an EV maybe. Do you think drivers 'disable the regen braking'? They might well set it to a reduced setting, so the car does coast a bit more when the accelerator is not being pressed. Lots of EV,s have no 'One pedal driving'. As to the Regen Braking and a big fat heavy BEV, or braking with an ICE vehicle, a big fat Range Rover say, lose traction / grip, not even regained with ABS, and they are big heavy sliding vehicles, or even less heavy, and the Automatic braking is achieving nothing. Auto braking after a collision maybe on snow or ice, or a flooded road.

Pretty much everything you need is here: Skoda Octavia Mk III 2013 Workshop, Service, maintenance & repair manuals downloads inc VRS - Hypermiler.co.uk And it is much nicer to use than the Haynes Book of Lies (which we dont have anyway). Stretch bolts on the sub-frame so you really shouldnt reuse the very expensive bolts....ahem. With the cost of Poly compared with standard I couldnt see any real advantage, other than ease of fitting so I stuck to Febi. I bought a press about 5 years ago and have spent an awful lot of time wondering how I managed for the other decades of fettling.

Hi everyone! Aussie here with a wonderful 2014 Octavia VRS, my very first car that I love perhaps more than I love myself. Had it for a few months now and this forum has been super valuable to accrue knowledge and assuage worries (bushing noises...) I'm on uni break now, so I can finally start driving places other than just work, and get some much needed maintenance work done! Would love to see some photos of your own wonderful cars, and hear about any maintenance/mods you feel improved them!

Hi @m0thm4n , and welcome to the forum. Our Octavia wagon manual 1.4tsi does everything we ask of it and is still a joy to drive after 11 years of ownership.

Include the "average journocritter" here.

Well, I watched that Channel 5 program and nothing in it altered my thoughts regarding the sheer complexity of a BEV or the fire hazards that can pose should the battery be the cause of the fire. Just because a BEV catches fire, it does not automatically mean that the battery is the cause, these cars still have all the other items in them that ICE cars have and if the battery is NOT involved in the fire then the car is just the same as any other car and can be quickly and safely extinguished in the same time as an ICE car. Once the traction battery is on fire, then its game over. I felt that that they under played the par about EV's in emergency braking, yes its true that regenerative braking will also add to the stopping power of a car, but what about incidents where the driver has disabled that or even reduced the amount of regen, as not everyone is happy with one pedal driving? I was glad that the quality issue of charging cables was mentioned, but disappointed however that they never made a single mention about not using standard 13A extension leads as these are a real minefield and the average person is completely clueless as to what constitutes a good safe lead as to cheap Poundland product which could result in a major fire. In short, it was a bit like the curates egg, good in parts and bad in others.

The 2 litre 190PS Diesel doesn't get any mods for towing prep. I'e seen the Skoda tow prep chart for Karoq. Johnsons Wolverhampton had the towbar fitted. Advice so far is that it's a mechatronix sensor issue. Nothing to do with towing or temperature.

I say fix it & keep it. I too have been toying with the idea of a car change. Reason - advancing age & mobility issues are drawing me towards a higher riding easier to get in & out of SUV / Crossover. I have noticed that getting in / out of my wife's Kone EV is so much easier than my lower slung Superb. However, like you, the problem is what to replace it with & still be happy with my choice. I don't want to sacrifice too much performance or the large boot I have in my 280 Estate. A PHEV with a decent amount of battery range seemed to be an ideal compromise. However, the only ones with a decent boot space are the size of a Kodiaq which is a bit OTT for what I need. I did look at that new Omoda 9 SHS PHEV with self charging capability, up to 90+ mile range on battery only, large boot, same length as my Superb, good quality interior, 449PS, twin electric motors + 1.5litre turbo engine so 4 x4 as well. Nice looking car & fuel consumption should be miles better than my Superb. However, even bought nearly new or leased it's over the £40k RRP tax threshold (£45k new) &, its insurance group 45!! Plus, it's Chinese made which doesn't sit too well with me. So having talked myself round in a complete circle I have decided to stick with my 2016 280 L&K Estate. It's just turned 65k miles & is the classic sleeper / Q car which is so hard to replace, even if I do struggle a bit to get in & out of it!!

@chrisgreen hit the nail on the head for my way of thinking ........ Keep it ......

G'day, bonzer, you wearing yer thongs and budgie smugglers and sippin' on a tinny mate (insert other cliches here) 😆 Welcome to Briskoda or 'Brisky' for short. There's at least one other Aussie on here @Gerrycan but I don't know what he's driving. Again, welcome @m0thm4n

Today I received the ELM327 adapter so I could use CarScanner to read the current dataset and just tweak it to perfection — but unfortunately, it didn’t read anything, so I was disappointed and found this thread on a forum instead. I’ll try taking a dataset from MIBSolution, modify it a bit, and then attempt to upload it to the car via CarScanner. But I don’t feel like paying for the Alex editor if it’s no longer active and can’t be reactivated. The only option then would be the templates he has on GitHub, and to dig through the HEX format and edit it manually that way

Ultimate Speed I think is something we might see in Aldi or Lidl, their battery chargers have been fine. I would definitely check the pressure gauge against a known good gauge. Stuff I've seen from China for decades has some that is excellent, much is fine and a lot can be just a waste of time money and materials which sometimes you can tell immediately from removing the packaging, or after first or second use but if the item just about does the job and it's very occasional use then at the low price it can be worth the gamble and good value. The mechanical manual footpumps I've bought haven't lasted anywhere as long as they should be those inexpensive or higher priced, they're not long lasting like the stuff built 30,40, 50+ years ago, that's progress. 🙃

Not easy at all. Look at the image above of the refurbished, super-clean head and consider those views but with everything deep inside the port completely black and light-absorbing. Couldn't even see much at all with a device for looking inside the ear canal which my partner kindly offered. 😄 Access on a 16 valve engine (forward facing intake ports?) looks vastly easier for those lucky owners. Even with mirror, light, help I couldn't see into the ports to really tell how much crud there is, let alone do anything about it. At one point I had my head wedged upside down between engine and firewall, but still couldn't see well. I've decided it's OK! 😆 In better news, the PCV system seems to be working properly now, pulling the oil filler cap down again at idle, if you loosen and try to remove.

Hi @ColinD The way I see it, the size of the car is irrelevant. The relevant question is, do you need two cars in the household? If the answer is yes (and I suspect it is), the solution here is to keep the car. As you've said, it is a good car in great condition (with some minor and normal wear and tear work in need of doing, so not an issue). Given the money already invested in the car, which you won't recover selling it, you are better off keeping it if there's a need for two vehicles in the house. Replacing with a "smaller" car is unlikely to deliver any meaningful insurance or fuel savings, and you will be less happy driving it. The current generation Fabia is very impressive (arguably the best - and biggest - iteration yet), but it's a small car and rides/handles like one. Fix the Superb, keep it, bask in the warm glow of happiness that comes from driving a car you like being in.

Well, you've been through "big" and "small" cars so besides a question of choice (me, I do prefer a larger car to drive, in general), the rest of the items are more on the logistics/economical aspect of things ... say some things might be affected more by the size (parking, tax, etc.) some less. You can give a % factor rating to each aspect, and see what direction it goes. Then you add your "personal" factor and you see how that bias the result. Personally, I think my 280 will be the last larger/powerful ICE car I will be needing, so will be very careful to give it away ... but this is me. You only live once (twice only Bond). 🙂

Hi My name is Tommy and I reside in Dundee North East Scotland. Joined the forum due to purchasing a Skoda Yeti and I would welcome members advice. Once I have gained some knowledge I could also contribute to the forum. This is my first Skoda and already impressed with its build quality and performance. Hopefully be able to discuss some topics on the forums.

Below the pull out cubby hole on Rh side of steering column at bottom of the trim , near door pilar front

Had my vrs 14 yrs now put 147k on the clock, still going strong. Sometimes wonder what other drivers think of an old diseal ?

So it seems that you can swap the rear sensors as the sensor has a straight design. I didnt swap them in the end because it was a complete faff to get the sensor off. The bolt was completely rusted & it was difficult to fit the bit into the head. Eventually it came out & I am still not sure if the head was a Torx or Hex fitting... (The garage said Torx but the new bolt I fitted has a hex head). As usual the electrical connector is the most finger destroying part. To remove the sensor itself, you need to give it a lot of force or lever with a screw driver. The plastic body of the sensor acts to position the sensor in the correct place so has a strong interfence fit by design. I tested the electrical connector & there was 12V at Key On so I took the chance to replace the sensor rather than try to test it first as I needed a new bolt anyway due to the state of the head of the old one. The old sensor which failed was part number: WHT 003 864 A The new sensor I fitted is the latest version: WHT 003 864 C After fitting and reconnection, the ABS light & Tyre Warning Light were still illuminated. However, after driving above 30kph both lights disappeared & there are now no faulty at all displayed in the infotainment. I checked with Car Scanner & the Right Rear Vehicle Speed is now correctly displayed (before it was reading intermittently but mostly 0kph. Another simple(ish) correction saving me a fair few hundred francs...!

Well after 13 years of Yeti ownership I am reluctantly moving on. I’ve had 2 Yeti’s, the first was an Elegance model 1.2 TSi DSG bought new in 2012 and the second bought new in 2017 when I learnt that Skoda were discontinuing the Yeti. Another 1.2 TSi DSG in SEL Drive trim with all the extras. That Yeti is coming up for 8 years old so reluctantly time for a change. Without a doubt in over 60 years of driving the Yeti was one of the best cars I have ever owned and both have been utterly reliable. So many months ago the search for a replacement started in earnest, my requirements (I thought) were fairly basic - could be a bit bigger but had to have a light bright interior with light leather seats, an automatic but not a pure EV and good to drive with a high seating position for my older bones! Simple I thought, how wrong I was, it seems almost all cars nowadays have funereal dark interiors with black headlining and black seating and dashboard. Volvo (XC40) used to make it with a beautiful pale interior, no longer, now it’s black unless you get the very expensive top of the range model. Same with Skoda, VW, Mazda and most other makes -WHY? The cars with light interiors were few and far between, tried and liked the Lexus LBX but my wife found the passenger seat uncomfortable after 20 minutes or so, looked at Honda’s and eventually visited a Mini showroom where they had one of the new Mini Countrymen, in one trim level it had a pale interior, pale headlining and could be spec’d with pale leather (imitation) leather. Test drive was illuminating, very comfortable ride and excellent performance and most of the niceties I wanted with a higher option level. So on Monday I am swapping my Yeti for a new Countryman. I will be sad to see the Yeti go but I have reconciled myself to the fact that there will never be a proper replacement for the Yeti, why Skoda lost their uniqueness and just cloned VW models I will never know. However, now looking forward to getting to know the Countryman and all its modern tech! So after 13 years it’s goodbye to everyone on this forum, it’s been a source f information and fun for the past 13 years -good luck for all you Yeti owners. You’ve got one of the best cars ever made - as a past Editor of AutoExpress told me.

Bonjour Bap 33, j ai acheté l autoradio à munga je vais regarder derrière le fakra/iso au cas où j ai la version officiel du vcds ( version 10 vin) merci