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Last night's sunset 😎

If generally the Micra ranged from £12,995 then how much was the cheapest ones if the AVERAGE is just below that and the moat expensive ones more than double that? Was it £12,000?? There must have been lots of very very very low priced ones being sold, and very very few of the expensive ones.

Hi mate, i too have developed problems with the same gearbox but with some different errors. I was recommended on this forum to use ECUTESTING, but after some research and discussing it with my VAG specialist and in their experience it's best to avoid using them due to the issues they've had in the past going down that route. I think years ago the company was alot better. I fully trust their opinion, as they are independent VAG specialists. When factoring in all the costs, including labour, etc., having the mechantronic unit replaced directly with parts from Germany was only slightly more expensive in the scheme of things, and I will have a complete history of parts replaced in the unit. It's clear the mechantronic unit on the DQ381 has issues, and I'm furious it's not being recalled and replaced at VWs expense.

Yes, but the lack of a timeline (when they said mid July to me) makes me nervous!

'Luckily it's on lease, so it will go back'. As it always has been from the day it was ordered and specced up and a load of money put up front. Yet the song and dance continues. Get shot of it, if it was not such a good little earner.

Thank you all! It was the words in yellow. I topped it up yesterday with TotalEnergies Quartz INEO Long Life 5W/30 5L from Halfords. I appreciate your help! M

@lol-lol I have this MINI Cooper E for the day while my one gets brake pads at 18 months / 20,000 miles. Not from use but lack of use. Happy with this one rather than a SE or even a JCW electric or petrol. Far nicer back road nippy car.

I think just plenty busy with life most likely.

It was probably the yellow oil level warning light that came on not the red oil pressure warning light. @JustMarcel may be able to confirm, if his wife noticed the colour.

Hi JustMarcel. You've had a lot of advice about the oil you need, but there is a more fundamental warning in the owners manual. If ANY red warning light comes up on the dashboard, it is important to turn off the ignition as soon as possible. Immediately is best. In the case of the oil warning light coming on, "stop the vehicle, switch off the engine, and check the engine oil level, top up if necessary." Running the engine with little or no oil can cause irrepairable damage. Stay lucky!

Has anyone had their MK2 serviced yet? I’m due an “Inspection” in 4000 miles and an “Oil Change” in 2800 miles. Can these both be done at the same time? Seems rather pointless booking it in twice within a month of each other? I’m currently on 16,000 miles and it’s the 1.5 PHEV.

Hi, I'm not yet a Skoda owner but hoping to get a used Superb Estate to replace a Volvo V70 that has just died. The forum has been a great help so far and is a big incentive to go for a Skoda. I'm planning to tow a Drascombe Coaster sailing boat (also chosen partly because there was an active forum) and have some questions regarding towbars which I'll raise in the relevant places.

Very hot, today, but might this be the cause of a problem I have. Virtual dash set on Classic, and with speed repeated in centre. After third stop, the centre shows Assist setting options for cruise (not ACC), or limiter (warning sound if exceed set speed). This will not go away, just scrolls between the two options, and change menu button has no effect. If I press scroll wheel in, it turns on whichever of the two are highlighted. Normally, I never use either of them. Can change dash style, so that button works, but that is it. Will check again later tonight, to see if cooler temp can clear it.

Just to come back and write about what i dod to the car in the end. In the end went with bilstein b8 shocks, kept the factory sportline springs and did audi tts bushings. I am blown away how much better the car feels after that, if i had known this i would have done it 5 years ago. Car now feels much more “sophisticated”, it is more compliant, rounds off bumps with ease, there is no more crashing from the suspension and it feels much more controled. I guess the harder bushings also made a steering feel a tiny bit more direct. These dampers are supposed to be “sport” option, but they made car feel better allround and I am more than happy with the results, I just hope they last more than the OEM dampers.

Depreciation is terrible, if someone went in with £30,000 a bought and owned the car. Some will have, and might then want to sell after 3 years of maybe very cheap charging. Loads of money lost. Not if they keep 6 years or more and have cheap charging and servicing. But, it was a Lease car. Did a job, rental paid on it, tax saved if a business user. If i Bought an Electric MINI at £35,500 & now find 18 months later i could by the same for £15,000 or less that is lots of depreciation. But Motability bought it, and never paid anything like £35,500, more like £25,000. I am paying over 3 years £11,000 for driving it. plus buying electric. Maybe at 3 years old the supplying dealer or some other will buy it for £10,000 & advertise at £12,500. Or that was how it was but maybe not as things are now. I hope in 22 months to get the one i have for £11,000, or one to the same spec, fully loaded. To get a Petrol Cooper S 3 years old i will have to pay maybe £12,000 on a car that was £26,000 new.

No, Ireland. They collected and shipped via DHL

There are not 2 services. The 'Inspection' is a red herring. A false item. It could have showed as Oil Filter @ 1 year and Oil & Inspection Service at 2nd year. Fixed Servicing regime. But someone never set the service indicator properly. Variable / Flexible or as was Major Service as in first service at 2 years / 18,000-20,000 miles should be the Oil & filter and reset of the stuff. The DQ400-e DSG Service is due at 40,000 miles.

I would think so, yes.

You did well not to use ECUTESTING. Consider it a bullet dodged. The replacement option is far better IMO.

We're getting an Ohme, no choice really, that or cough £1000. Waitng on the power company to assess the meter cupboard. It's quite crowded and I refused to say if there was 'enough' space on the basis that I'm not a fecking installer. It's amazing how uppity companies get when you refuse to sign off on things you have no qualification to do so. BA don't ask me to confirm the plane is safe and flightworthy when I book the tickets.

Greetings from sunny Croatia! I'm new to the forum, but I've been driving my Octavia for 4+ years and way more than I had expected before. 😏 Eager to do more maintainance on my own and to do some small mods/upgrades in the following months. Here to learn and share the experience. 30m, not a kid as the nickname suggest, still a huge sarma fan. Cheers all!

Worth taking a look on THIS THREAD and also check out the PROJECTS section of this forum to see what others have done and how it looks. I've lowered my Rapid Sport using the Eibach springs (30mm drop) and put 18s on, I should really take some pics at some point. I had the 17" Rays before and the ride wasn't great to begin with, with my current setup it's a little worse but it does look good! IMO 19s won't look right.

It's available on later builds of the pre-FL Mk4; how late I don't know - only that my 2020 build doesn't have the option for it, yet a loan 2023 could. In that car it is accessed by clicking the right side roller on the steering wheel - same way as customising what's shown inside the dials. I assume it's the new hardware/firmware of the virtual cockpit in more recent cars.

This is quite a good comparison of a Nissan Leaf and Nissan Micra Petrol, both purchased new and kept for 3 years, 48,000 miles and after 3 years, and even assuming you was able to charge your leaf 100% free while your micra would have cost you £6,400 for petrol, the micra would still be the more cost effective car overall by £13,800 saved in your back pocket. Now that amount would vary for other cars and of course does not cover things like tyres, servicing etc, but even with the micra requiring servicing which the leaf wouldn't (allegedly) you would still be better off with the micra.

Sorry, forgot to update this. The next day I went out to check it again and it had fixed itself, so all normal indications...

KFC and McDonald's do keep theit nearby litter collected. But this is a council parking hub at council buildings and near by. Ladies and gents that are Friends of the Loch tidy up, hang bird feeders etc. Maybe if they did not the Council might actually have to put someone on the job. Oddly the various departments employees with EV,s charge there but are selectively Tommy. Deaf dumb and blind. Like they were in the Scottish Government over charging hubs. Toilets etc.

@Ootohere well that to my mind speaks far more about the attitude of the natives and also of course of both KFC and McDonalds for not keeping the litter collected up and removed from site or is that perhaps a reflection on the local council for not making that a condition of granting them a permit to trade? The bins are much same as those employed in most places and you can't blame the poor old birds for them pulling the litter out looking for the odd titbit. You say the bins are often set on fire as well, I suppose you have to thank the local youths for that, probably bored out of their tiny brains as they can't be much else going on to occupy their minds I'm guessing, seems strange to me as for some reason, my impression of Scotland was that the people seemed to be more civilised and well behaved then the English, how wrong was I?

SO your microphone goes directly to BT module, you will need to re-wire it to MIB STD2 PQ unit. I usually do it by making two joints in BT connector (pins 8-12 and 9-11) which redirects microphone signal via audio out cable (so you don't need to make new wires between BT module and MIB STD2 PQ unit).

3G0919360RJ

Nosy but, who supplied & handed over the car or did the PDI on it.? Yes get both at the same time. At the Oil & Inspection service. Someone made the mistake at the PDI or last service not to have them set to be at the same time. There is no just an 'Inspection'. There are Oil & Inspection services. ? Should the 1.5TSI PHEV not be only on 'Fixed OIl Service Regimes' as the 1.4 TSI PHEV,s were. 9,400 miles / 372 days. ? Yours must be on Variable / Flexible. 18,000 - 20,000 24 months.. The reason for Fixed Oil and filter changes was that maybe the engine was not fired up much if doing lots of running on charges. You mileage and engine used is probably high enough, or VW Group / Skoda have changed the Schedules. I bet the Dealership that handed over the car have no price for just an 'Inspection'. Make sure they do a Body condition inspection at the Service. Skoda / VW are the ones that say if ever a Corrosion Warranty claim that no record of being done. Not that the T&C,s says that they should be. But their bumf says included.

'Dash warning' came up. That can be Yellow oil can light or Red oil can light (Symbol) or actual words on the screen. Low oil warning check, or Low oil pressure. Vehicle / age, dependent.

Hi , although I have eyelashes ( the car ) I don't think my car has smart light assist. I have tried every thin but no success to make them work. !

Our winter weather/work/social/laziness have contributed to a less consistent recent training phase. However, a social media post by my daughter-in-law (full-time work, with a two and half year old) showing her improved running times and fitness over the last year spurred me into venturing out for a twighlight run tonight. After my involuntary tapering I decided to extend my distance to 8km. Went out too fast for the first km so spent the next three recovering and then was able to settle into an even pace. Very happy with 5:36 km averages, which is the best I have been achieving recently for shorter runs. Calves hurt...a lot. Must walk out the lactic acid tomorrow, but my knees handled it comfortably despite the cool conditions.

Hey! Been finding great answers in this forum for the last year so thought I’d join :) I’ve been running a modified MKI Octavia Estate Laurin and Klement 1.9TDi manual 6 speed for just over a year as my daily and totally fell in love with it! And just found a really nice 2012 MKII vRS, DSG with low miles that I’m planning to do some improvements on this year :)

So after many weeks of dithering to go to the dark side, as my kids call it ( electric ) , we decided to .. and came home with a new big red fire engine , mk2 VRS Kodiaq , a bit like Luke skywalker " i will never go to the dark side .... " 😄

thank you soo much

My 2016 model did exactly the same every few months and never knew why. Traded it in for a 2020 facelift about 18 months ago and the DAB situation is great. SatNav is a completely different story though - 2016 great, 2020 ****e!!

still battling the failures of biology, I swear I used to be a well person. in between 'the suck' things have been millimetrically moving forward. welded that bit in: coloured it in a bit: put the glue in the gutter and put the rubber on the glass, **** that SUCKED. Tomorrow either glass go in, or glass smash and truck goes in sea. The colour is ok, I like it.

Having fitted a full set of Heko wind deflectors to my Kodiaq I wanted to circle back on this topic with some feedback. Spoiler alert: I didn't get on with them. Installation was very straight forward. Each deflector came with a decent amount of quality double-sided tape ready applied as well as two metallic clips. I tried to get by without using the clips (which look a bit Mickey-mouse, more on that later) but no amount of sticky tape would hold the deflectors in their channels, despite liberal cleaning prior to installation and waiting 24 hours with the windows closed on a warm day afterwards. I think the problem is that my Kodiaq's window channels aren't simply an inverted 'U' as per the instructions; the outer part of the top section is not very deep and offers little purchase for the adhesive. I tried using more double sided 3M tape for the entire length of one deflector, and also some very thin 3M foam pads on another, but I just couldn't get them to stay put with the windows open. In the end I resorted to using the metal clips. They were easy to install and improved stability of the deflectors enormously, but I had to find the best placement for them through trial and error where the front deflectors were concerned. Each removal and re-fitment resulted in minor but permanent damage to the inner window seal thanks to a sharp little spike that's presumably there to stop the clip sliding out once the window is opened. This seems like a poorly engineered solution and I did wonder if the spike isn't supposed to be facing outwards, i.e. into the plastic of the clip rather than the rubber seal, but Heko's installation video was pretty clear. Anyway, they were in now, but the knowledge of such bodgery didn't sit well with me. Would that spike gradually slice the seal to bits? Or how about contact between a partially dislodged metal clip and the closing window on a frosty day, when the glass is super brittle? I'd already experienced water ingress at the clip points when hosing down snow foam - was that going to get worse too? Hmm. Once fitted I must admit they do look the part, complementing the other smoked plastics very nicely. The leading edge of the front deflectors do make the A pillar seem substantially thicker and the nearside deflector covers maybe 15% of the wing mirror from a driver's perspective, but they do keep the rain out well with the windows open a crack, at least at standstill. When on the move in moderate rain you get an area of low pressure behind the leading edge of the front deflectors, which actually pulls more water into the vehicle at speed than you get without deflectors fitted. Closing the window at this point causes the water to bead exactly in front of the mirror, which was a bit annoying too after a while. But by far the biggest distractor for me was the wind noise. We drove from Lancaster to Southampton on a rainy afternoon, and I'm sure the cabin felt substantially louder than before, regardless of whether the windows were open or closed. Was I imagining that? At the start of the return journey I removed front and rear wind deflectors from one side only in order to compare, and the difference was so stark that halfway through the trip I stopped at Norton Canes in order to remove the other side too. In doing so I noticed that the lower edges of the wind deflectors is filed into a very sharp edge, so that a closing window doesn't meet a square face on the way up, and that sharp edge had started to bite into the outer vertical seal too. Enough. In summary I think that I'd be happy to fit the Heko wind deflectors only without the metal clips and only if I didn't anticipate any significant motorway driving. But that's not realistic for me, so the rears are going to stay in my boot next to the spare wheel, ready for quick fitment if I ever do get around to spending a night in the Kodiaq Hilton.

My experience of ECU Testing and their refusal to discuss the diagnosis beyond the cost is that you will never know.

Very true, except when it's a total bangor and worth £300 quid. I'm actually enjoying the EV drive. Got to say with the right regen level it makes b roads quite good fun. Relative term! The superb is also pretty good fun on a b road, although chews through rear pads trying to keep it's mass stable. I've definitly transitioned to getting from A to B and not so much popping out for a drive/blat around the lanes as I would of done 20years ago. ALmost everything on the market is too powerful to have fun on a GB road legally. The citigo was ironically probably the most fun I had for a while, using momentum and reading of the road to get the most out of it. Been over taken on straights... hehe I did once repass a BMW who braked sharply mid corner, one of those lovely wide open scottish a roads, he zoomed past again on the next straight. arh fun times squeezing past motorhomes on single tracks. A 1.6T Aygo might be the ticket ;) It's just an aygo love, see sensible me present ;)

It's common for the DQ381 on cars before 2020/2021 to have issues with clutch position sensors in the mechatronics. But this is shot in the dark, it requires proper diagnostics by another place as others suggested.

My local "good" independent place guy just mumbled something about the valve hole being a mess, so I think that when and if he added any sealant, it would be to a crusty hole - no cleaning/preparation getting done then and a dollop of sealer on the valve before yanking it through. I think that that place is now just my nearest tyre place, no more, matching beating others on tyre prices and good service used to be their game, now it is just mainly car servicing, just is life! Seeing as you have mentioned rims, a friend's wife has a maybe 2009ish Micra, one wheel started to lose air slowly but intermittently, in a sort of "its okay" for a month, then needed a bit of air, then complete deflation so handed the wheel into a tyre chain place, rim resealed now it should be okay, that worked for a few months then same again, "all good" turning to complete deflation overnight! Time for another visit and this time "wheel rusted through at a lot of points at the weld down the rim centre line" so he drove back along and sure enough "game over" for that steel wheel, getting a replacement for that Micra was not too easy either, now he is waiting for the next wheel to go the same way. Quite unusual that I think, or at least I've never heard of that happening to a steel wheel in the past. Edit:- I attempted to get some rubber grease into the area around the valve, just as a feeble attempt to keep salty winter water away from these areas.

Had similar problems. Leaking at valve. I got the tyre service to rremove tyres and tidied up valve hole and used a black sealant which has been brilliant. Been two years now and no probs. Sealant is rubber like and does a great job. Pic of what I used. Its also excellent if the rims are a bit coroded.

Hi all Just a quick hello as I picked up my new Octavia VRS estate yesterday 😃

So ill break it down for you a bit better, The motor doesnt wind any piston back and forth to start with. The motor winds a ball screw inside that has a plate attached to it. This allows for the motor to push the plate out which pushes the piston out, and when released, only retracts the internal plate allowing the piston to retract on its own like it would in any other braking situation. Next on to the diagnostic side of it, With some good maths by engineers a lot smarter than yourself and I, they have worked out that as a motor begins to increase in torque, the current draw goes up also, and using this principle they have worked out the exact torque to current draw curve of these caliper motors. Why is this relevant? Well you dont want premature wear of the hand brake and caliper components by using too much torque and you dont want too little torque where the pad isnt being pushed hard enough against the disc. When you reengage the motor with a diagnostic tool it actually puts the handbrake on and off about 3 times, this monitors the current draw and sets the exact point it wants the motor to stop to excessive prevent wear on the parts. Now as much as you can get away with using a socket and winding it back yourself and reapplying it yourself, the motor is still using its old stop points and will over torque the motor or under torque it. TLDR; its not all some conspiracy to get you to spend more money for no reason and actually serves a purpose. Its also related to a safety component and it grinds my gears when people try and skip steps/cheap out on them.

You don't really want that tacky cheap and nasty L&K badge on the wings do you? Mine were off and in the bin within 20 minutes of being delivered. The gear knob decal 'DSG 4x4' was quickly replaced too.

Hey, just though I'd share some pictures of my Spaceback with projectors fitted, got them fitted by a garage for ~£60 during the MOT. Replaced the existing Xenon D5S bulb with LED ones - super bright yet not dazzling. No need to code with VCDS either as discussed in other threads, I presume that's due to these LED units drawing less current than the stock D5S's, not sure. Way better vision at night though, 10/10 upgrade, just need to replace the sidelight bulbs to remove the yellow hue.