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Had the wheels refurb'd... and new centre caps and new tyres all round. Much much nicerer. Before and after

Use the PM feature to send email addresses please.

I swapped from a MG5 to an Enyaq and there’s way more space in it and a lot higher

Can we move car hunting for tall people to another thread? Not remotely related to truth about EV’s.

Colourful sunrise this morning 🌞👍

No @Graham Butcher Not if the same class or style as some Old Classics and some Limos, or like the Gangster Funeral in Glasgow a couple of days ago Silver Mercs and Blacked out window SUV,s. But then not everyone is flash with a Registry Office wedding. Or a simple funeral when all they want is a Taxi / Large Family car for an hour or 3. Point being, it happens. You rich Southerners are there showing your money, looking at buying MPV,s with a high seat and roof. 'Just get a TESLA', For Weddings & Funerals as well. Quiet and no fumes. Maybe not get a Cremation though. Defeats the Carbon Neutral.

I find them good and stable even in heavy rain /puddles . My car is a SEL Hatch 190 TSI FWD and I would never go back to summer tyres all year round because the CC2s winter driving advantage far far outweighs any summer driving "disadvantages" that may exist which I personally have never experienced Hope this helps

You might find this web site useful Skoda Enyaq iV (NY) SUV 2021 is 13.6 cm shorter and 6.9 cm lower compared to Hyundai Santa Fe (TM) SUV 2020. It has 1 cm more ground clearance and offers 1% more cargo space.4,5 Carsized.comSkoda Enyaq iV 2021-2024 vs. Hyundai Santa Fe 2020-2023Skoda Enyaq iV SUV 2021-2024 vs. Hyundai Santa Fe SUV 2020-2023. Compare car dimensions (length, width and height) vs. street perspective.

Getting back to an ev though you need to check out the Enyaq 80

Had this out for its first "drive" in a long while. Was well over due a wash. Not a long drive but it moves fine after all that work.

Your screen is showing "charge immediately to 50%" so if you car is less than 50% when you plug it in, it will immediately charge. We dropped ours to 20% as we're not likely to go below that.

I’m pleased to say this has sold to a Briskoda member 😃

refitted the wiper motor assy, and the scuttle panel. I did use the squirty washers and giggled as they hit the window not the seats. Dry fit the dash after wedging in the central locking controller and dragging the wiring through the doors. It's not long enough so will need extending, joy. The dash isn't particularly exciting till you realise that I didn't dismantle this car so it's the first time I'm finding out what it's LIKE assembled. Smashed open the bed access panels which the last idiots had thickly brush painted including over the screws, had to use an impact driver to crack them after digging out the drive flats with a pick. That's let me get the cable for the rear view camera to the rear of the truck, just need to figure out how to get down and under the bumper. I lopped off the screw bosses that used to hold on the bucket behind the seats, that was very smashed and stinky when i got the truck so it's long gone. This gives plenty of room for the sub, the seat is all the way back and lowered till it touches the rear wall. I stripped the tailgate to get the new release button fitted and found out just how filthy it is in there. And found another few bits that will need welded. I really just need to get the wiring behind the dash finalised so I can install that properly, finish up the welding at the front end, lob the wings on and find out how much insurance is going to be for this lump. I wish the wheel arch liners would show up, I need them to finalise what's going on at the front for mounting things and whatnot.

In my experience with this issue, a garage will go as far as plugging an OBD / fault reader in, and if that doesn't show an issue, they won't look any further. I had two garages do this, even when I told them I suspected the spark plugs to be the issue, based on these forum threads. When I spoke to a main dealer, describing symptoms and my suspected cause, they said it couldn't possibly be that, and wanted me to get a full clutch replacement for about £4000. Realistically, if you're taking the spark plugs out to inspect them, it's probably easier to put new ones in than the originals. They might be hesitant to do so without good cause. I'll be honest I'm still not completely certain why the sparks, leading to an intermittent misfire ends up causing issues with the ESC, but hey. I can see why garages are sceptical to just replace them if they're within life expectancy. If you can't remember when you last had sparks (and or leads) changed. Or if they were over 10,000 miles / maybe 2 years ago, it's probably fair to get them replaced, they're not too expensive. I'd be surprised if a garage charged more than about £200 for parts and labour, and worst case you've only replaced a maintenance part a bit sooner than necessary. Mine showed some signs of corrosion, presumably from water getting in the seal around the coils, so even if the car has been sat, they could be a little worse for wear. The symptoms sound very similar to my issue, resolved as above. But I'm aware describing snatching, juddering and skipping is all very vague and quite hard to check if we mean the same feeling. My OBD only showed an error when the EPC light was on. As soon as I turned the car off for a while and let the EPC light go off, the OBD didn't show a code anymore. I'll also add, I separately was running an experiment running both E95 and E99 for prolonged periods (3 months alternating periods, about 4000 miles a pop) to check fuel economy, and found it made absolutely zero difference to the symptoms while I had this. In terms of safety, on the two occasions the EPC light came on, I just drove it home / to the next services and no further before turning off, letting it reset and carrying on, albeit cautiously with the accelerator. I don't think it'll be fatal, but you definitely lose all ability to accelerate, which was not ideal.

There is a thread somewhere on here - I got mine from a UK supplier on eBay and watched a really good step by step guide on YouTube (I think for the identical VW version). I also needed a small set of small (torx?) screwdrivers for the diddy screws that secure the metal casing. If you are methodical, it's easy - Just doing things in order and not losing the screws ! The only mistake I made was that I un slotted the SD Card holder at some point and hadn't pushed it all the way down into its slot so I had to take the Bolero out again. Screen has been perfect ever since.

225/40/19 Bridgestone Turanza T005. They offer very little protection to the wheel rim - already kerbed a rear one 😬

In the first place I wouldn't replace the dampers because they don't control the ride height. What I would do is investigate the rear suspension for broken springs, probably up at the pig ears.

^^^ Knowing the profile is fine, but what is the width that the profile is 45% of? Or the width of those with 40 profile, so the sidewall is 40% of the tyres width. Both being 19" wheels / tyres.

On my MINI Electric i have Maxxis AP3 Premitra. Excellent All-Seasons, wet, dry / hot and Snow / Cold. They come in 215/55 R 17 98 W. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/382657-maxxis-ap2-all-season-tyres-update-2024-maxxis-ap3

What's the profile on the tyres? My Sportline has the 19" wheels with a 45 profile and the ride is absolutely fine - whereas I've read many people saying that 40 profiles have a much less forgiving ride. Mine's a 23 model, and I can choose to have map display only shown on the central screen with just the arrows on the dash, so might be worth looking in settings (from memory, you need to untick "Show map on dashboard" while in Nav). Actually that may not apply to the Columbus! Agree with you regarding the LED Matrix lights - they are amazing. I've never been flashed either, which is one thing I was worried about. And finally... congratulations, enjoy your new car :)

Yeah, a cremation is indeed anti net zero, now you're taking me back on a memory trip back to the time when I designed a automated cremator control panel, built 7 of them, wrote all the software for the controls and installed them all in the City of London Crematorium.

I will Upload something for you

Check out his project thread here - he uses E10‑85‑042‑02‑22 according to that

Yeh, I'm really glad I have this thread and the support of the people in it. I've done soooo much stuff and got so far, but it still seems like there's just about an infinite amount still to do. Today's been rained off till 4pm, but before it started sheeting down I got the whole stereo system in for a test. Initially I couldn't get any life out of the sub which was concerning, but I tried plugging it into the rear outs and it worked fine so I went through some of the menus and finally found the toggle to switch the sub output on, but it was greyed out. The manual for this thing is absolute TRASH, but I finally got it figured out that you need the handbrake interlock defeated to enable the settings. It turns off loads of stuff if the handbrakes not on so you can't fiddle with it whilst driving. Trivial to just ground it out to get access to everything, but I'll put it on the handbrake because I don't want to be tempted :P The screen is lower than ideal, but seems far more usable than I feared.

Are you working on software for Skoda cars?

@MartinB OK using that method to look at the files it's actually 2025.06. So it should come up as that once loaded if loaded fine.

Like this?

That's some thread!

Yeah. Well the park selector error is just as you say, no harm on that. The others poibt towards battery, BUT generator no comms, maybe the root cause, you need to investigate that. I'd resolve that first and see if misfire problem remain. Seems unlikely all 4 plugs or all 4 coil packs would suddenly go intermittent faulty. But I couldn't say for sure. Have you had a look at plugs, when were they changed?

The wiring inside the door panel is rarely a problem. The wiring between the door and the A-pillar, on the other hand, is an extremely common problem. Did you check that? Under the rubber bellows that attaches over the connector at the A-pillar?

There is a very good reason the Wedding / Funeral / Airport Transport / Taxi drivers use Skoda Superbs, as did the Scottish First Minister. I came up behind and passed the 'New' Santa Fa yesterday. What a brick of a vehicle. I thought it was a Kia EV9 when a bit away from it. Not so tall. There used to be lots about as taxi,s in Scotland.

@Graham Butcher have you looked at a 5 seat Kodiaq... Slightly shorter than a superb but a higher driving position and loads of space with the rear seats pushed back

I am based in the UK and can confirm that the Cross climate 2s are excellent in the summer as well as brilliant in the snow. I run on 19 inch rims and find the cross climate 2 a lot more quiet and a smoother ride than the OEM Bridgestones they replaced. They are very stable and I have no idea what you mean by turn in and feel bite- can you please explain?

I say Never Touch a running system

That's a great lot of work you've gotten done there Cat! Looking great. Might not feel like it to you but it is. Keep it up! 😁

Check out the Hyundai Santa fe?

Not in your Firmware Train

Sorted it, turns out after coding it and rebooting radio I was holding the button too long and it was reverting back to the ''welcome to skoda'' skin. Release button as it begins to power up and presto it has now changed. Just the MIB to sort now as that seems to e not accepting changes applied.

I wouldn’t think ACC is mandatory, it’s a purchasable option. Check your contract or offer, is ACC listed there as an option? If it is, kindly insist that your dealer honors the agreement and enables it. If not, you will probably have to purchase it presumably in the infotainment Shop

The Born is as far from an Octavia as a Huracan is. The difference between the vRS and the 1.5 is honestly best answered by the similarities - which, really, are the carpets, infotainment, some body panels, wipers and basic chassis. Otherwise, the steering, suspension, brakes, engine, gearbox, design and everything else is a totally different thing. They are designed to serve two totally different purposes. It’s like comparing a 3.0 TDI A6 to an RS6 GT. Sure, they’re the same car, but they’re also just not even in the same universe, let alone the ball park.

Problem is just because a car looks to be large on the outside with its above average height. or its bulbus haunches etc, it does not mean that its interior space is large, its method of propulsion makes zero difference.

Thanks again, Ryan. Daughter & son-in-law well pleased.

When I get it to the dealership next Friday I'll see what they say and update.

I see there's an odd bird on here so add a couple of our locals. I'm keen on photography. Almost any subject, but with so many beautiful native birds around our place making fantastic subjects they often get centre stage This is a female Superb Fairy Wren, followed by the male. He has a yellow petal they give to their girl. Some males lose their colour and regain in breeding season, whilst others keep it all year round

Thanks again bigade1

Regulator on alternator was knackered, £20 odd for a new one, now charging the battery at 14.4 on idle and only drops to 14 under load of heater lights etc. Hopefully be able to test over next few days and see if it helps the drain or if something else behind that!!

Hi! Thank you — I’m really happy to be part of this community! Yes, I do have some photos of the car. I’ll share them below (or attach). It’s a Škoda Octavia RS WRC Edition, and it has the “51/100” badge in the interior. The car is currently in Lithuania, and I'm working on fully restoring it to its original condition. The story is quite interesting — based on official records from the Škoda Museum archive, the car was manufactured in September 2001 and originally intended for export to Saudi Arabia, but it was delivered to Autostar Trading in the UAE. It seems the car sat unused for some time, maybe in a showroom. Later, it ended up in Finland, where it had the plate number HCY-507, and from there it came to Lithuania. If you or anyone has more info about these WRC Edition cars or has seen this unit before, I’d love to hear more! Thanks again — looking forward to learning and sharing more! Best regards, Martynas

Hi all, I have an 07 vrs and fitted the powerfold mirrors from a newer fl mk2. The job is as simple as it gets. Remove the door card and sail panel trim. Access the 3 bolts to remove the mirrors and unplug the electrical plug, then refit the powerfold mirrors. Then remove the door module/window motor. Replace with the new door module/motor. Then plug all the connectors into the module including the extended one from the new mirrors. At this point double check the window mechanism works correctly as it will reverse the opening/closing if on the wrong side (a mistake i made). Also check the operation of the mirrors folding smoothly. Then reassemble the door. While I was at it I fitted dynamic indicators and carbon mirror caps. Once done sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labours. You will also aquire puddle lights which I also replaced with led units. I'll try and get part numbers for everything required. And share on this post.

Pre face lift Part number 10776301 aka PW24W bulbs that are used for DRL in the top of the round light housings located below and inward of the main headlights. The bottom of these round light housings is used for the front fog lights. The top bulb holder is in several sections that split apart but the bulb is not easily removable. Understandable if you have replaced the bulbs. I am just looking for information on how the bulb is removed / replaced.