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Hello everyone 👋 I am currently living in Germany Bavaria, had to get myself a nicer car for my long commutes and ended up on a Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0 TDI from 2016! Bought it well used at 175k km from an owner who really enjoyed the car, and now have the car at 215k km. Started learning how to do bits with my friend and trying to keep up with the wear on it. So far, hardest thing I did on it has to be the timing belt job! Between odd jobs, I always came back to Briskoda for tips and discussions on my little wagon model: Since I am not the most experienced with cars, I always question myself and the procedures for certain replacements. Hoping to take this car to high high kilometers 🤞 Cheers, WagonVrs

So, I think it's all done now. Stage 2 mapping APR air intake and filter Upgraded intercooler Downpipe with 200 cell cat H&R lowering springs Audi RS4 (2017) 8.5 / 19" wheels Maxton side skirts Custom box 1000W jbl sub Probably painting the ceiling black when i do some small scratches. And that should be it. After 4 years, most guys walking by it, stop for a better look. Quite happy with it. Power is a bit too much. You can't put the foot down at lower speeds and high gear. But, interesting enough, I can leave the engine in eco mode and becomes a little tamer (still going strong) and if i need the kick, i press the pedal to the metal, pressing the boost button which apparently becomes active now only in eco mode (normal and sport I guess are already boosted from the remap). It just drives amazing, doing B roads on 4th and 5th, cruising effortlessly at any RPM and becoming a beast if you press it hard. I guess, how a vRS Performance pack should be :)

Thanks for the quick replies. The user I would like to message is @Twinpack , so I'll see if he messages me whilst I reply to other comments. Cheers.

As the trend is for larger more so called stylish rims, there is less and less rubber between the road and the car so there is less flexing of the side walls, so you would have thought that they would have tuned the suspension to ride softer to be that little bit more supple, but sadly it seems is the newer generation cars are having a harder tighter ride. My son has an Audi A5 and that is also very hard riding.

Actual real world, if in 7 hour @ 6.7 pence a kWh or now 6.2 pence you get 50 kWh. The works van is not getting 200 mile, 4 miles to a kWh. But its all just man mans. (Balls in the park.) Edinburgh City Council had Contractors having to have Electric Vans. Going home and coming into work might need the employees having to charge before work started or they were into the city. 50 kW or 75 kW battery vans. It was OK when charging was free, then there was time limits and penalties, then 45 pence a kWh & now 62 pence. Workers / Couriers etc needed sometimes more than a 40 minutes charge and they just took as long as they needed. 50 kW max chargers. It was and is a p!$$ take, and getting worse. South Ayrshire minimum £5 charge and now 70 pence a kWh. 60 Minutes Max charge time. 50 kWh @ 70 pence is £35.00 for 170 mile, 200 miles if you are doing well. £35.00 is 25 litres of diesel at 140 pence a litre. 25 litres = 5.5 gallons. x 35 mpg is 192.5 miles. VAT claimed back on Public Charging. But if paying 89 pence a kWh still bl00dy expensive. PS. Standard Tariff, maybe Customer charger used or 3 pin lead. 10 x 30 pence a kWh, £3.00 for 35-40 miles.

For most people, an overnight charge on a domestic EV charge costs around £3 and gives about 200 miles. (Ballpark figures) If you use a public charger will be around 10-13 times that, £30-40 as they are typically 65p - 90p per kw/h For fossil fuel cars, 200 miles likely to be half a tank of fuel, also around £30-£40 Reality is, if don't have access to charger at home or work, then probably going to not save anything with an electric car. But if you drive say 10k miles per year and have a charger, likely to be paying nearer £150 in electricity per year, rather than £1150 per year in fuel, saving £1000 per year.

Check all the obvious ones visually (tyre depth, age of tyres from 4 digit week & year code, brake pad thickness and brake disk condition. Check under boot floor and around back seats for signs of careless ownership. Then as @Ootohere says, if it needs haldex filter, full service, cam belt etc could easily rack up over £1000, over £2000 if brakes and tyres too, so get them to print or email full service history and study when things were last done (and more importantly by deduction what is not already done). .

UK spec vRS didn't get electrically folding mirrors as standard, only some special editions if I remember correctly. Sasha added a guide ages ago and also mentioned the part numbers for mid/high door controllers along with the coding:

It probably is. So what? You buy / lease what works best for you.

skoda octavia 2015, browsing for help, thanks

conas a tá tú? and where are ya? theres plenty help around the site for any issue youre having, so hopefully youll be alright 👍

My rusty diamond is a 2002 Octavia rs. I want to se what others have done to their cars as inspiration. I do everything on my car myself because im a broke college student:( with limited resourses I need knowledge to compensate. I want to learn from this community and hopefully be able help aswell

Hi, I'm Paul and I'm due to collect a 2023 Kodiaq from Skoda Burntwood on Thursday. I've been a huge fan of Citroen, which I've driven continually since 1973, but the brand I've loved is now, unfortunately, just a pale shadow of the innovative, quirky marque of the past. I need a good car for day-to-day use, but powerful enough, with a useful diesel engine, to pull a caravan around the country and hopefully carry a couple of eMTB's in the back - a job ably done by my old 2.0 C4 Grand Space Tourer. The choice was between a 2.2 Kia Sorento and a Kodiaq and I'm hoping that my first Skoda will satisfy my needs and be the right car for the job. I’m also taking out my first PCP deal, with Skoda, but I’ve really struggled (and failed) in trying to complete the agreement online. Maybe it’s me, but I’ve found the app they use to be dreadful! Anyway, thanks for having such a useful forum site, I can’t wait to pick up tips and advice from fellow owners. Thanks, Paul

I'd agree and also say the speed on longer trips is important. I have a 1.6 petrol octavia and a 1.5 diesel superb and going from 50 to 60 to 70 shows a fairly consisent 15% drop in mpg on both cars (diesel outperforming the petrol).

Is that the only function that’s not working? For example can you get the driving data mileage, mpg etc; does honk and flash work; can you send a route from the app to the car? There was an issue with the servers at Skoda a while back where routes were not getting to the car. I suspect that the digital certificate data comes from a Skoda server that holds the service history amongst other stuff. I’ve just checked and I can get a digital cert for my Karoq but it is about 2000 miles out of date - which I’ve not seen before so maybe their is an issue with the servers?

That is part of the problem with todays cars, how can they claim that using a mobile phone is dangerous when driving but allowing things to be controlled through a touch screen in a screen is somehow perfectly safe to do? Bring back physical switches and knobs for everything, they can be operated without any need to look at what your doing.

Hi Yammy! I think I found a dude that has a 189x build available, waiting on his message, will keep you posted if he comes hrough :) We were looking for 189x builds, as 1941 might be problematic to say the least! Thank you anyway dude! :)

Only potential issue I could think of was frequent short journeys/strain on battery and frequent washing. To be fair this car was kept inside for most of its time with BMW. That said, none of these are really issues on a car with 60k miles. Shame it got snapped up, but we've all been there.

Here I am reporting from under the seat. Connector corroded with the power pin being completely torn by corrosion. People say this might be the result of water ingress - car has the panoramic sunroof as well. But, in my case, everything is dry and dusty. I even found some parking bills from 2019 here.

It does. I can disconnect the connector from it, then I get a fault for battery monitor communication. This fault is different from generator communication. When I plug it back in the error is gone. I just drove home without issues. The misfiring faults become inactive when I start driving. On the highway everything was ok. When getting closer to home and hitting traffic, the misfires returned. Especially the count for cylinder 4 increases. Putting it in neutral and touching the gas pedal ever so slightly is enough to make the misfire counter stop, so it seems the misfires only happen at idle. When stopping, it takes a minute or so of idling for the misfires to return. Like mentioned I'm not touching anything myself for now as to not void the warranty, I've gathered enough information to bring it in and let them handle it. This was educational though, I'll update you when I find out what the underlying issue was.

The more popular sizes are being released first. Many Superb owners fit 245/40 19 as they used to be a fair bit cheaper than 235/40 19.

That's a thought. I'll try it when I get home.

i had the same error message last week when I had left the car in 40C. Interestingly the error dissappeared once I cooled the inside of the car and never saw it again since. Reading the comments it makes sense. I suspect it is quite humid and hot in Egypt this time of the year, which may be affecting the micro-switch.

Your oil level must have been very low if adding 1 litre only brought it to halfway between Min and Max - how long has it been since oil level was last checked? AFAIK, oil level warning will temporarily reset if hood is opened, then reclosed - even without adding oil!

Well got the axle beam bushes done and had to do the rear brake lines at the same time as they'd seen better days. Knocking is still there and I think Paul Thornton was on the right track. The shock top mount of the drivers side has a bit of play, where the passenger side has none. Gonna order a new top mount. No regrets doing the bushes as it feels tighter/more solid on the back

Thanks for the replies. I agree that the no comms fault of the generator is suspicious. I'm hesitant to take things apart as I'm still under waranty, but when opening the hood I find no loose connectors around the alternator. I haven't had a look at the plugs but will do later today, that I do dare to do myself 😄. Will check for battery date as well.

Behind the NSR light unit there is a handy spare hole in the panel, intended (I think) for tow bar wiring. Run the cables through there and that gets them behind the bumper.

Small cheap EV commercials.

wind the caliper pistons back fully if they press back inwards without too much force this should show calipers and the brake hose have no air 2) make sure the brake resovoir cap is off dont forget secure it back on also just as a safety measure open the bleed nipple gently clean it first then libricate it and then slack it off see if air bubbles come out with the brake fluid this is what I would try first

Just to add do check the servo hose to back of throttle body for even tiny cracks. If air is drawn in at all the throttle won't open properly and power is right down. If the pipe comes off the throttle doesn't move at all!

Completely agree, however, just lobbing the £20k in there without some sort of qualification is less then ideal as the actual cost of leccy can vary from a few pence to the best part of a £1 depending where you charge and if home at home/work the actual tariff also matters as not everyone would be able to match it.

There should be a record of it having had the Haldex serviced twice by now. 3 years / 30,000 miles. Hopefully more than just oil changes were done. As to the DSG if a DQ381 with the scheduled service at 80,000 miles. Maybe done and maybe not. Or is it a DQ500 DSG, and a 40,000 mile service schedule. AC servicing, brake fluid changes. Any warranty work history?

Instant suspicion of a loose electrical connector.

Excellent engine but check service history especially re 4x4 gubbins. The Superb is an amazing, comfortable and refined mile muncher that with the 2.0 petrol really flies. 2018 and earlier mkIII models have the excellent twin injection per cylinder (direct and port) that works well and mitigates re carbon buildup that just direct injection engines can suffer from (saying that I've never encountered this with 1.4 tsi). I'm making full use of my estate this week - going camping now I've seen the forecast. Sadly it's no longer a Skoda Superb.

I decided to write this as a seperate post, because it may help someone with similar dilema. I kept my stock sportline springs even though I thought about going for eibach pro kit. I even tried to order them, but my car is superb 3 190tdi 4x4 liftback and the sales guy insisted I should go for the superb 3 combi/ vw touaran spring set ( part no. E10-79-012-04-22 ), even though what I found I should buy is set for superb 3 liftback (part no. E10-85-042-03-22 ). These two kits have the same front springs, but different rear. I listened to my gut and decided to stick with oem height as lowering wasn’t something I wanted, i just thought to give them a try when the whole suspension is already being done, having in mind they aren’t too expensive and may improve handling. What made me get cold feet was I have read about “nose heavy” look that many guys got after instaling the eibach and I really don’t like it. So i did some digging and found out : Stock sportline springs for my car are: Front: 281 mm lenght, 12.5mm wire, 140mm diameter, 4.6 coils Rear: 320mm lenght, 13mm wire, 109mm diameter, 7.8 coils Eibach pro kit: Front spring(same in both kits) F11-85-042-03-FA 248mm lenght, 12.5 wire, 136.5 diameter, 4.75 coild Rear spring in liftback kit F11-15-007-04-HA 303mm lenght, 13.5 wire, 116mm diameter, 8 coils Rear spring in estate/ touaran kit F11-79-008-01-HА 327mm lenght, 13.75 wire, 122mm diameter, 8.2 coils. I put all these in one of those spring rate calculator(i know that isn’t really scientific) but it was interesting. Sportline oem front- 39.02 NM/mm Sportline oem back- 51.74 NM/mm Eibach front- 40.4 NM/mm Eibach liftback rear- 47.89 NM/mm Eibach estate rear- 42.43 NM/mm Rake it with a grain of salt but it does look interesting.

many thanks. Couldn’t find much when I looked.

While I agree Sports Car is a stretch. A Superb with a higher output petrol, DCC suspension in sports mode and on 19" wheels makes a half decent sports saloon. And I've had the Sporty Jag XF Varients and Audi S5. Certainly enough to do good tyres justice. I'll be trying the CC3 Sport once prices stabalise.

Thanks for the help, I ordered the second version direct and should have it tomorrow

I had one of these plans, took it out about part way through year 4, so car had been out of warranty for few months. At the time they had special offer and I was paying nearer £26 per month. I think I had the major service around its 4th birthday, then the minor service, but I specifically requested spark plugs second time (even though it had only done about 15k miles since they were changed (before I took out all in one). I explained it includes a spark plug change, so although not due, do it because it is effectively free as paid for. So look what it covers, and get it done, even if not scheduled at the mileages your services come up. If plan covers it, you have paid anyway, so silly not to have new parts if you have the option at no cost. From memory, mine had European breakdown cover included, so worth more than a UK only policy, but wasn't that obvious unless read the small print. .

Ur DCC will still b happy, however ideally u need to perform a DCC Recalibration procedure after installing the springs. These r the various Eibach parts numbers for the Superb mk3. Sedan/Liftback - 3V3 Eibach ProKit 35/30mm E10-85-042-01-22 (985kg / 1220kg) Superb 3V3 Hatchback 1.4 TSi E10-85-042-02-22 (1100kg / 1220kg) Superb 3V3 Hatchback 2.0 TSi 2.0 TDi E10-85-042-03-22 (1180kg / 1220kg) Superb 3V3 Hatchback AWD 2.0 TSi 2.0 TDi E10-85-041-04-22 (1070kg / 1220kg) Superb 3V3 Hatchback 1.6 TDi 2.0 TDi 1.8 TSi 2.0 TSi Wagon/Estate - 3V5 E10-79-012-01-22 (985kg / 1250kg) SUPERB Kombi 3V5 1.4TSi E10-79-012-02-22 (????kg / 1250kg) SUPERB Kombi 3V5 1.6 TDi 2.0 TDi 1.8 TSi 2.0 TSi E10-79-012-03-22 (????kg / 1250kg) SUPERB Kombi 3V5 2.0 TSi 2.0 TDi E10-79-012-04-22 (????kg / 1250kg) SUPERB Kombi 3V5 AWD 2.0 TSi 2.0 TDi

@rsna my guess is made by looking to springs specs - with E10-85-042-04-22 kit iV front will have ~ +5 mm and rear ~ +25 mm instead E10-85-042-02-22 in any case that will be lowering when compare to OE E10-85-042-02-22 = F11-85-041-01-VA + F11-15-007-04-HA E10-85-042-04-22 = F11-85-042-03-FA + F11-85-016-10-HA -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160 you can start by install just rear, that is cheaper

Check out his project thread here - he uses E10‑85‑042‑02‑22 according to that

AAWireless is the one to get if u want trouble free use.

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Had this out for its first "drive" in a long while. Was well over due a wash. Not a long drive but it moves fine after all that work.

Gawd bless the Octavia. Mine is a 2011 model with 49,000 miles on the clock and I regularly get over 50 MPG on a run and about 45 MPG around town. Every time the press publish a list of most "nickable", most "unreliable" cars etc. I am heartened to see no mention of the Octavia. Let's keep flying under the radar folks !! 🙂

Hello and welcome. I think you're fundamentally right about dodging the simple stuff and focusing on the misfire, though that gear selector micro-switch is probably worth sorting out quickly, IMO. When was the car last serviced? Plugs, lead, coil packs might all be a problem at that sort of mileage if not already replaced/serviced, though the power cycle reset seems to suggest it's an intermittent fault, not just faulty old parts. I don't know the dealer, but I would be pushing them to either sort out the problem now, or extend your warranty for this issue if they insist that you have to keep driving it to get more data on the fault.

Hello, I have a Skoda Octavia Mk. 4 (Nov. 2020 Combi TDI 150 (110)/DSG) for just over a year. I've driven about 30,000 kilometres with it since I bought it. Sometimes, last year, when it was very hot, I had an intermittent problem with the DSG gearbox. This is a recurring problem as the summer heats up. When I park the car, in hot weather and after driving for a while, the car makes a loud noise when, after restarting, I switch from P to D or R. A message appears with an alert "Error: Selector lever. You can drive on". The message disappears as soon as you restart the car, but may take 2-3 restarts if you've driven a lot in very hot weather. Do you think it's the same error? When the car was serviced this winter, the mechanics had seen a history of this problem, but didn't seem very worried, they'd simply reset the logbook.

Aren't there just some former headmasters on this forum - do this, don't do that! I thought forums like this one were where like minded enthusiasts shared tips and ideas, not to get lectured on the 'proper' way to do things I've now discovered that many towbar companies are fitting the mk1 Kodiaq towbar with either a universal wiring kit or a dedicated wiring kit so I bought a mk1 towbar, dedicated wiring kit and fitted it myself! Total cost - about £300. Someone who commented on my post, with a positive attitude, was quite correct in that the mk2 does come fully prepared to accept a towbar. All the wiring is behind the n/s trim in the boot. No need to remove rear lights. Wheel arch trims partly unclip then slide. Easy peasy for an old man like me with a young son keen to help his Dad. By the way, the bits came off eBay.

ARB drop link would be the first thing I would check. Thanks, AG Falco