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Mine disintegrated years ago. Just took the remnants off and vaccuumed the top of the engine to get the foam bits off. Can't say I noticed any difference in noise etc.

Problem solved, the seat just wasn't back far enough. It flipped up fine once I put it right to the back.

Suggest that you speak to whoever fitted the new Mechatronic Box. My car was at the Dealer recently and they requested that I took both keys with me in case they had to reprogram the Immo

Completely normal. Your key that was left behind has been deleted from your vehicle.

I did give this a go, and it did seem to solve the problem. Weirdly, pretty much simultaneously, the latch that receives and detects the belt buckle bit started not detecting occasionally, causing warning lights and bonging noises. A squirt of air from one of those airduster aerosols seemed to sort that, presumably displacing some debris that was interfering with microswitch operation. Cheers again @aubrey . 🙂

Not a good day at the office today, carpet fitters were a no show which cheesed me off so grabbed the camera and popped over to the coast. Ended up on the causeway to Holy Island.

Since I had a really hard time gathering some popular options to be coded on my Octavia MK4 while avoiding one click apps, I figured it would be nice to post a summary of my findings so far. Some I haven't tested so please do let me know if they work. Would also appreciate if some can be added. It really sucks there is not a big list of features for this car to be coded, one click apps are too expensive. Driver Assistance Systems Lane Assist - Remember Last Setting Description: The car will remember whether you had Lane Assist turned on or off between ignition cycles. Control Unit: A5 - Driver Assistance Path: Long Coding Parameter: Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 New Value: last setting Enable Standard Cruise Control Option Description: Adds a menu option in the infotainment screen to switch between Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) and standard "dumb" cruise control. (note, this does not work with first gen OBD11 device!) Control Unit: 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control Path: Long Coding Parameter: Cruise control mode New Value: Activated Lower ACC Minimum Speed Description: Lowers the minimum speed for ACC engagement from ~10 km/h to ~1 km/h. Control Unit: 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control Path: Coding Parameter: Operation_moden Value Change: From Mode 1 to Mode 2 Disable Overtaking on the Right Prevention Description: Allows the vehicle to overtake cars from the right-hand lane while ACC is active. (Use responsibly and check local laws). Control Unit: 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control Path: Long Coding Parameter: overtaking_right_prevention New Value: deactivated Lighting & Displays Fan Speed Display in AUTO Mode Description: Shows the current fan speed level on the climate control display even when it's in full AUTO mode. Control Unit: 08 - Air Conditioning Path: Adaptation Parameter: Blower display in auto operation New Value: activated High Beam Assist - Remember Last Setting Description: The car will remember your last setting for the automatic high beam assistant, so you don't have to re-enable it on every drive. Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Fernlicht_assistent Parameter: Fernlichtassistent Reset New Value: not_active Pulsating Start Button Light Description: Makes the engine start/stop button pulsate with a "heartbeat" effect before the ignition is turned on. Control Unit: B7 - Access Startsystem Interface Path: Adaptation > DeveloperCoding: Search lights Parameter 1: ZATillumination_concept_mybeat_clamp58xt New Value: activated Parameter 2: ZATillumination_modus_mybeat_clamp58xt New Value: activated Enable Rear DRLs (Scandinavian DRLs) Description: Activates the rear taillights to stay on with the front Daytime Running Lights (DRLs). Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Daytime running light Parameter: Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht New Value: aktiv Change Tachometer Style Description: Changes the visual style and max speed value of the tachometer in the virtual cockpit. Control Unit: 17 - Instruments Path: Adaptation Parameter: Tachometer end value New Value: Choose a different version number (e.g., from Version 2 to Version 6). Requires ignition cycle to apply. Deactivate Headlight Washer System Description: Prevents the headlight washers from activating when you use the windshield washers. Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Scheinwerferreinigung Parameter 1: Anzahl Betaetigungen Frontwaschanlage pro SRA Aktivierung New Value: Change from the default (e.g., 10) to a very high number like 255. Parameter 2: SRA bei waschwassermangel New Value: not active Fade In/Out Interior Lighting Description: Adds a smooth fade effect when the interior lights turn on and off. Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics (Security Access Code: 31347) Path: Adaptation > Suchbeleuchtung allgemein Parameter: KL58 einschalten mit rampe New Value: aktiv Audio & Sound Soundaktor (Structure Borne Sound) Volume Description: Adjusts the volume of the in-cabin fake engine noise generator (Soundaktor). Setting to 0 disables it completely. Control Unit: A9 - Structure Borne Sound Path: Adaptation Parameter: Volume of structure borne noise actuator New Value: A value between 0 (off) and 100 (max). Some models go to 255. Enable Alarm Beep on Lock/Unlock Description: Activates a short horn beep when locking/unlocking the car and adds a toggle menu in the infotainment system. (Only works if vehicle has OEM alarm system!) Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Response signals Activate the following: Akustische rueckmeldung entriegeln: active Akustische rueckmeldung verriegeln: active Akustische rueckmeldung global: active Akustische rueckmeldung signalhorn: active Menuesteuerung akustische rueckmeldung: active (This adds the menu toggle) Dauer der akustischen rueckmeldung vom einfachhorn: normal (or kurz if you have the factory alarm siren) Disable Trunk/Deck Lid Closing Sound Description: Mutes the beep/tone that sounds when closing the power trunk/deck lid. Control Unit: 6D - Deck Lid Control Path: Adaptation > Ausstattungen aktivieren Parameter: tone sensor New Value: not active

Thanks everyone

Previous fabia vrs, 2x Octavia vrs, Karoq sportline owner. Was always gutted they never did a vrs version of the karoq. Switched to xc40 last time round because my local Skoda dealer was offering 3k less than the Volvo dealership for my karoq and Volvo offered 0% apr. Cannot wait to be back with Skoda! Glad a few more recent reviews are more favourable. Gone for; Black magic paint 21” vision wheels Maxx package Winter package Heat pump NHS fleet with insurance, servicing, tyres, tax £459/month Cannot wait!

My A4 had a hydraulic engine mount one side. It had an electric valve that controlled its stiffness depending on operating conditions. It had leaked too.

Also quite possible. Still don’t get the oil filling though 🤷🏻‍♂️

Or just miscommunication, left side engine mount rather than LHD? Pictured one being right side.

Economics of scale maybe 🤷

I’m intrigued as to why the mount is full of oil? At a guess it’s different LHD vs RHD because of the steering rack being laid out differently, while the engine and gearbox would be in the positions with all the ancillary systems attached/wrapped around them needs the engine to be held a different way. Why is it more expensive? Probably a much more complex design needed.

just rust time has taken its toll 27 years is a long time for steel to stay free of rust here in wet UK. Has been repaired mainly the rear on both sides replaced with new steel.

I'm intrigued by this, can't quite picture why they'd be different. Care to share the reg or VIN with me (privately if you prefer) so I can research it a bit?

Another example of "rip-off Britain" .....

I did the update and everything is fine

i know but i might get a better angle with the endoscope so i can fish it out with a steel wire

Hi, I would seek for a seat cover specialist. I fear all seat covers, you can find easily on first Google pages won’t fit. But I don’t know any. 🤷‍♂️

As above, get the brakes done - the binding needs addressing and tbh the general condition of them isn't very good. Get the brake fluid done, along with the handbrake as it's all the same job (although, I don't think it takes half an hour to adjust the handbrake - not to mention with more meat on the pads the issue might fix itself entirely)? Leave the shocks - for now, anyway. The control arm bushes are the bits of rubber that keep everything nice and tight - the ones in question are in-between the control arm and the chassis of the car. Funnily enough, I literally had this last month - I ended up just replacing the arms (with SuperPro arms and fresh bushes) as it worked out to be the same cost as replacing just the two bushes. I didn't get under the car, but I knew there was an issue with the alignment/tracking, so it made sense it was those bushes. I would be temped to get an alignment done, and see how bad it is - if you have am RS6 GT I can understand keeping everything in tip top condition, but on an average Fabia, if it works for now, leave it till next year. Again, it depends how bad they are (tends to be they debond). Same story with the binding - it's likely a seized caliper, however it is likely that for a Fabia, the cost of fitting the £10 seal kit will be more than buying a new caliper. Pics 1 and 2 (I think the fronts?) are absolutely fine for now, but pics 2, 3 and 4 need to be replaced - you can see that you're only utilising about 1/3 of the braking surface. You can see the lip on the discs in the first and last photos. It's an indicator that they'll need to be replaced, but considering the car and driving style, you should be fine for another six months at least. As above, rear discs on small town cars tend to suffer a bit, as they just don't get the use. My vRS brakes get regular work outs, but around town I can see the merit of drums. BTW - ask the garage to get you OEM brake bits, not OE. OE is Original Equipment - in other words, the parts come with a VW stamp on them, in a VW bag. OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer - made in the same factory, but without the VW stamp. Depending on your brakes, they'll either be TRW or ATE. I personally went OE for the brakes on my vRS as I'm quite hard on them, but didn't want to go back to Ferodo or another performance setup. I doubt there's that much difference, but hey ho - it's just something I wanted to do. IIRC I paid north of £300 for the front discs - TRW are about 1/3 of that. Again, for an average Fabia, there's no difference and they should be about half the price for the fronts.

Fair opinion who knows how car dealers think. Lovely car would be sorely tempted if you were not 300 miles away.

Fix the brakes and wait till the next MOT. You can book it in early to give you time to repair anything that fails. Discs and pads all round is a fairly straight forward job and shouldn't cost that much. If the caliper is seizing then it will need replaced but it could be as simple as pads rusted/sticking in place or slider pins on caliper requiring cleaned and regreases with silicone. As said labour charge seems excessive but hourly rate is similar to most specialist garages and a lot cheaper than the dealer. Parts seem about right. You could mention the labour charges that should really be combined and see what they say. My old garage used to quote similar but that was to cover themselves in case it took a long time. If I got a quote they said that that would be the maximum but depending on how things came apart would probably be less and it usually was. Alasdair

Ok! Got all the 6mm clip thingies in place: Finally worked out that you can remove the indicators to get access to the screw that attaches the wing to the front bit! smacked brand new panels with hammers to stop them rubbing on stuff. dry fit a wheel bucket to figure out how it everything... my neighbour is going to help me with a big jack to wheel off and rivet in the bucket soon. and then just had a lusty look at the scabby thing. It's getting clooooooosssseeeeeerrrrrrr

Same with the Mercedes EQC. Built on an ICE platform, propellor shaft intrudinging into cabin for no reason In the EV. So it ended up with with a weight of 2.6 tonnes for a mid sized SUV hence awful energy efficiency. Nice to have 400 hp but still compromised. I find driving EVs that body roll is less than in ICE cars due to the lower centre of gravity. On the M5, junction 4 or 4a, there is an advisory 50 mph bend but in the EVs I find it can be taken flat out in EVs where as in the hybrids it seemed to roll more due to the higher centre of gravity. Not taken it in a boxer engined car, or vvankel, which maybe a bit better than ice cars with vertical cylindered car. Renault dealer got a couple of Alpines A110s which as a super light might be fun and it is one of the very few pure ICE cars I would still buy.

IMO telling them you have someone else interested could backfire ...... They could say to you, well, see how that goes and get back to us if you do not sell it ...... And then offer you a lower price. I would just let it play out. If they want it they will buy it. if you play games it may just pi55 them off. just my opinion though.

Yep, got it mastered now!

You immediately had problems with the rear doors not opening and then found that you needed to explore menus to make an adjstment. Spend time working through the menus because you will need to visit them regularly. The picture you posted of the model you bought shows it to have aero covers on the wheels which have induced near fits from some of the Fabia enthusiasts. Have a think about those and in particular work out how to remove them while the weather remains fine. Do post back on how you get on with the vehicle. In retrospect I might have looked at a second hand VW golf with minimal drive assist aids rather than a new Fabia 4. There are currently Skoda ads on TV for new electric models so the hopes of a better Fabia 5 are unlikely to be fulfilled.

Absolutely. As can be seen by which cars are hit by the Paris triple the parking price hit on cars over 1600kgs, or 2T if an EV. BMW 330E, Merc A250e, Skoda Subherb Est Wiesel, see article below. There are nearly a hundred EVs less than 1600 kgs. Over 300 under 2T. Many ICE cars are over 2T, particularly Hybrids and wiesels ...... EV DatabaseEV DatabaseA comprehensive overview of all electric vehicles in the UK. Search and compare by range, make, model and price.AutocarParis votes to triple parking costs for heavy cars | AutocarCombustion cars weighing more than 1600kg and EVs weighing more than 2000kg will be surcharged

Thank for your assistance, it's been investigated by the bank who gave me the money back while they investigated it but eventually took it back. I'll pursue it with the people you've advised but it has worn me down and I feel I'm hitting my head again a brick wall. I'll pursue it a little longer with your suggestions, thanks for your help 😊

Yes, that is true. I'm still stuck in the F and pre-LCI G series - I forget the new M5 is 2435kg. But is that really an EV trait, or is that just demonstrative of a) how good an M car is and b) how bad a non-performance track focused EV is? I'm sure a Tacan Turbo GT Weissach would give an M3 a run for its money (it did a 7:07 vs the G80s 7:28), but that is quite an extreme example (it's full of scaffolding and has no rear seats). I think it's the very essence of an electric car - it's not designed to be a driver orientated experience (bar the 5N, etc), so of course it's not going to be engaging to drive. Are they designed to be fast in a straight line, or is that just a byproduct of electric torque? All of that aside, on the average UK roads, I think EVs just don't offer the best experience. You need to be launching them on smooth tarmac up to 100mph to enjoy them - I'd far rather have something RWD that goes roar, when I floor it from 20mph to 50mph once in a while. BTW - what did you replace the G80 with? AWDish in that size has to be a Turbo S or M5?

If you have the pads are binding on one of the front wheels, then both the pads and disc on that side will have worn more than the other side, how much depends how long they have been binding for of course. Both front discs and pads would have to be replaced. I don't quite understand why rear discs and pads require changing some frequently and at low mileages. My last VW did 108,000 and was still on the original rear discs and pads, our Fabia is 10 years old, admittedly only 20,000 miles but still on original discs and pads all round.

If ordering new it comes with the same towbar system as a Kodiaq and will have trailer assist as part of the package. However having an aftermarket towbar on a used Karoq can be more problematic as it has been with many VAG cars. Some cars cannot have a towbar fitted full stop. They're identified by not having a Train Weight Limit on their VIN plate and any towbar fitter will refuse to fit one as it wouldn't be legal. Other cars have their software locked up and aftermarket fitters can't download the relevant changes, they're harder to spot and generally you'd need a Skoda dealer to check it out for you. I may be wrong but just specifying towbar preparation on a new car doesn't get you trailer assist, it just gets any changes made that are necessary to accomodate towing should you wish to have a towbar fitted later. That later fitting would then include trailer assist software being downloaded.

That’s brilliant @travs , thanks buddy!

Getting the brakes serviced, or doing that yourself if you are able, is something that too many owners avoids getting done, and ending up with brake issues tends to be the norm, this s is made worse typically by servicing is centred round the engine only - and a quick safety check around the car - and maybe highlighting any potential for "more business". If you feel brave enough to check how hot things have become, you could check the centreish wheel surface with the back of your hand or even a quick poke of the calliper, but the discs could be a bit hot to contact!

Re weight...... the latest M3 is within 5% different to Model 3 performance. https://www.parkers.co.uk/tesla/model-3/saloon-2016/performance-auto-4d/specs/ https://www.parkers.co.uk/bmw/3-series/m3-2020/m3-cs-4dr-step-auto/specs/ EV are no longer heavy when ICE cars have become bloated. The view EV are heavier is ~5 years out of date.

Well, it turns out that things weren't as broken as they first appeared to be, some helpful rear seat passenger had managed to force both dials beyond the natural stop (effectively reversing the thumb wheels) so with a bit of cajoling I managed to rotate them back as they should be. So no need to replace the entire unit. Thanks for the others who made helpful suggestions

Picking one up tomorrow to replace our Cupra Ateca. Managed to get one of the unregistered ones that were around at a couple of dealers. Not the first choice colour or spec, but was being quoted up to 22 weeks when I was looking to do a factory order in the past few weeks. Think it will have just enough oomph as the family wagon.

I kind of disagree with both of the above statements. Considering the amount of garbage, pointless single-use ( sometimes, think electric seats FFS ) tech that is incorporated into the cars, including something that's actually useful to the end user would be extremely cost effective. They wouldn't have to buy their own test kit or pay for a test at every service. Additionally, think of the hundreds of posts on here regarding Christmas Tree warning displays on the dashboard that end up being caused by......? a bad battery!! Makes sense to me

Hello Zacko I just wanted to tell you that you saved me so much headache! I had this exact issue on my Passat B8. I recently had a temperature sensor changed (which was another whole headache as it was underneath the turbo so had to take it to a mechanic) and then after I got it back started getting the same issue when regenerating DPF. Did some research on the internet and was getting nowhere until I stumbled across your post! I compared my pictures from before the sensor changed and after and they were exactly like yours! So I pulled out the trusty 19" spanner and did a quick switcheroo. Thank you so much. I made an account just so I could reply to you. Have a great day man.

Come to us for the exact same towbar that the dealers would fit, fitted in exactly the same way with exactly the same functionality, with the same warranty - and less headaches

The rear brakes get so little use on an EV, the 'sealed for life' rear drums on MEB cars are a very good idea. Just Google Tesla Rear Brake Corrosion to see why drum brakes make sense on EVs. FWIW, after you get used to the slightly spongy feel to the brakes in MEB cars, the brakes are fine and do not lack power - just press a bit harder. While on the subject of brakes, my VW ID.4 (MEB platform the same as Elroq) has only 10% pad wear on the front brakes after 4.5 years and 56k miles. So you guys can expect the brakes to last and last.

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The power of advertising. I did a bit of Googling before I bought the first set but wasn't much in the way of reviews. The garage said that it's the tyres the Enterprise hire car company use when they send their cars in as a kinda 'must be good' which cynical me didn't buy as i suspect a hire company want cheap and don't need something that will last loads of miles as they tend to sell off and buy new regularly. Buy couldn't find any horror stories and its a family car doing family stuff, not a performance car or owt.

Episode 41 is out today. Apparently according to their Facebook page, it's their penultimate episode. Ending on 42 must be special, they must be a fan of Douglas Adams.

A friend of mine who owns a tyre supply and fitting company says that what sets Davanti apart from its competition is that they charge more than the competing brands for budget tyres of similar quality and spend a lot of money offering all sorts of incentives to independent garages to push their products. That is their pitch to retailers. As for their pitch to consumers, if you bought a tyre with the brand name Ling Long, Sailun, or Jinyu, you would be fully aware you were buying cheap Chinese. Whereas Davanti is a name chosen to make you think, consciously or not, of Italian high performance and so seem to justify a somewhat higher price. But you are still actually buying Chinese, just paying a bit more for it. That's not to say their tyres are bad. They do, however, offer many different tyres and the reviews differ about their ability.

What is it, engine size / power and what size wheels has it and what size tyres on now. Are you just wanting summer tyres or All seasons?

I went from a 2014 diesel VRS DSG estate to a 2023 petrol VRS DSG estate. The fuel economy obviously isn't as good but still get 50mpg on a motorway run. Difference is night and day, the petrol is so smooth - defo the right choice and would never go back.

It looks like there is a happy ending to this story chaps. The Superb passed the MoT today, with just one advisory comment - the rear brake pads are getting a bit thin (I’ve ordered some and will fit them before the winter). I noticed that Carista reported that the glow plugs on cylinders #2 and #4 were faulty, so I’ve ordered a set of new ones and again will get them fitted before the winter. Many thanks for the help and advice. Alan

Now’t wrong with bright colours. For my Karoq, I had the choice of grey, silver, black or orange (pre-reg but new), so a no brainer - orange it was! Now looking at Elroq, but only seen the black in the showroom. Will get online, and do a build or three!