Leaderboard

Update. I’ve covered 500 miles so far and the car continues to impress. My previous car was a B9.5 RS4 which I ran for 2 years. A different beast but strangely I’ve already gelled more with the VRS. Day to day driving, it feels nimble and agile. Lighter by ~300kg. Peak torque sits low down and good direct steering feel. I feel it’s got the right level of performance for UK roads, not silly quick but enough poke to keep you smiling. Exhaust becoming throatier with miles. Pops and bangs in sports mode a nice touch. The screen is not as bad as everyone makes out. Once you know where everything is, it’s a doddle to use and very intuitive. Above all, and the way costs are going these days, it’s the value proposition I admire the most. Lower insurance, lower tax, lower petrol bills etc for a car that’s half the price of an RS4 but not half as fun. I feel it’s a hidden gem in the motoring world at the moment. Fast, spacious, efficient, no fake noise, well specced, value and looks. I’m biased, but it wears race blue very well.

No ... I always imagine those moments with the typical boardroom meeting and someone asks the head of stock - "how much is left of the old stuff?" - "plenty!!" - "phase it out evenly then!"

@Graham Butcher It being about the UK is very relevant. Rest of world including the EU is a different can of worms or kettle of fish. The actual number of BEV,s sold new or leased to private individuals is a figure the UK government and SMMT should have and publish. Maybe the government and HMRC and the DfT need to get a grip on Pre Reging to get First Registrations. Also Demonstrators for this tax benefit to dealerships. ???? How many new BEV,s add Company cars , business use with tax benefits against his many will be private use. How many are Bunkered and first registered and not on the roads? PS the trading of credits needs stopped. There are the requirements of Zero Emission cars and vans to First Register and ask the Average Fleet emissions for the UK. The government are conspiring by allowing the kidoligy thay manufacturers are carrying out.

https://youtu.be/e_jja8pHQ0M?si=W4I68uHoTEscNhMn Our friend The Macmaster actually seems to have started to like them 😀.

Is the electric car bubble about to be blown apart or what, I keep hearing about the way that electric cars are supposed to be flying out the door, implying that they are being brought up in increasing numbers by the car buyers. Yet I'm also hearing the exact opposite from other sources including some car manufacturers who we are reducing their exposure to the electric market and opening up again on ICE powered cars, even ones that they had previously pulled the plug on completely, and gone full electric mode. Citroen reinstates combustion engines for Berlingo and Spacetourer | Autocar Is just one such statement I have seen recently where makers were bringing back ICE powered models, including the likes of Porsche etc.

@lol-lol Have you some investment in VW Group or has your pension provider. I would not worry about VW Group, the Management / Board & Qatar Investments have been taking the P!th. If they are viable they survive. If they build and sell what people want and make a profit they will survive. If they Pyramid sell and keep selling cars not properly tested and without faults then they deserve to go under.

At this age of the car, if you have rear suspension alignment problem, it's worth looking at replacement of rear suspension beam bushes. Other possibilities include bent rear suspension beam if someone jacked up the car on the beam, or if the wheel hit a pothole. Parts needed are 2x 6R0501541A, "bonded rubber mounting", 2x N10409903 M12 bolt and 2x N10106402 M12 nut. They are easily replaceable and about £10-£15 each from major suppliers, but need to be pressed out/in using a set of large sockets and a long screw (though plenty of bush removal kits on ebay and similar at £20 upwards). Worth at least a thorough inspection IMHO. HTH.

I am looking forward to getting mine. Got to wait until November but that will soon go by. And I have my Mk 3 in the meantime….🙂

Yes I agree totally. I wanted to like an RS Audi and tried the RS3 and RSQ3 but heaps of turbo lag made it feel pretty gutless unless you really got stuck into it which realistically you just don’t 90% of the time. I know some people argue the Octavia RS is too expensive but even as the price has risen over the years it strikes me as a performance bargain. I wasn’t even going to test drive an Octavia as I thought 245hp just wasn’t enough. The extra 20hp gives a noticeable zing at the top end and the other changes vs the gen4 are all positive (no sound generator, much bigger and faster screen etc…)

Ok, that's great, thank you.

*board room circa 2005… “So our mk2 Octavia is ready to start production” “Is there much leftovers from the mk1 production?” “Probably another 10thousand shells and all the panels, trims etc. we’ve thousands of engines left over too” “Hmmm… seems like a waste…” “I know, let’s just build em anyway but only sell them to taxi drivers until we run out!” *board room circa 2010 “So, we started our mk2 Octavia Face Lift sales last year.” “Great” “Oh and we finally ran out of mk1 parts!” “Thank Jesus. Now start designing the mk3 version.”

Hi, posted in the Skoda Mk 2 forum, but it's days that I don't have a high enough content items count to pm @pab567 Is there any chance you could perhaps alert him to my post please, as I can't contact him myself. Have read his posts and can see that he is really clued up on this stuff. Thank you.

My new baby ........ 85 SportLine Goes like thingywotsit off a stick 😃 Got 3.1 miles/kWh absolutely thrashing the acceleration and cruising at 80-85 on motorway! Looking forward to seeing what I get driving more sensibly 😇

Every mechanic here will say to you change dsg oil every 60 000 km, here Are official 120 000 service interval, but i live in very busy city with lot of speed changes do my interval is cut for a half

Hi everyone, If anyone’s wondering whether it worked - yes, it did! Here's what I did: - Updated main software from 1804 to 1941 -> MOI3_EU_SK_R9410L - Updated main software from 1941 to 1985 -> MOI3_EU_SK_R9850L - Updated radio software from 1.31.48 (version after the 1985 update) to 1.31.58 -> MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.58 - Everything else will update automatically when you're done -> just give it some time My original system information: Device part number: 5E3035816F Hardware: H56 Software: 1804 (now: 1985) ABT hardware: H47 ABT software: 2092 Navigation database: 20.7 (now: 25.8 -> will update automatically from now on) Media codec: 3.1.4 Radio database: 1.30.24 (now: 1.31.58) You can find the main software on mibsolution. For the radio software, it’s better to check phonostar and enter your VW part number, not the Skoda one, as it won’t return results otherwise (Skoda part number: 5E3035816F -> VW part number: 3G5035820D). I found the VW part number by searching through various forums. So far the system seems to boot faster, works more smoothly, and feels generally more stable (e.g., no sound issues with Android Auto).

The gen3 are CJXA for 280 pre-GPF and DNUA for 272 with GPF; both pre-FL. The intention probably would have been to coincide the introduction of gen4 DNFE with FL but it’s not guaranteed that the last pre-FL off production would have been gen3 and the first FL would have been gen4. I just don’t think it definitely goes as smoothly as that.

It may depend on what was happening with the car, battery alternator between the two lots of 12 hours 5-amp charging but it's inevitable that a used 6.5 year old battery won't be as good as new but it all seems very reasonable, plenty of useful life left in the battery. Don't get too bogged down with figures and percentages the battery wear, tear and useful life isn't a straight line, bit like tyre tread wear and fuel range left, depends on how the car is used in the future (that not even the great gods of VW computers and their programming can know exactly). Generally, historically at least for other models possibly including a 2019 VW product the stop/start will at least at periods stop functioning when it should be functioning, way, way(, way) before the battery is on its last legs and unable to start the car. Based on the experience of others you can flog the battery to death over months of driving and have a good selection of warning lights and messages and unseen error codes greet you with greater repletion over shorter intervals or staying on and possibly finally joining the statistics of number one reason for breakdown call-outs (totally the battery's fault of course 😄). My wife's then 3-year old AGM 60Ah battery took IIRC 15 hours to fully recharge on a cold winter's night using a Ring 4-amp charger maintainer and this was a preventative charge the battery wasn't 'low' by any VW (product) standards. It was just that the car was doing lots of very short journeys at the time and must be fully functioning for the boss - ignoring the loud underside clonk(s) and squeak(s) the cold exasperates (me not the boss she just turns the radio up to la-la to) - and I certainly don't want to be farting about with it when it's very cold (!"£$%^& short-lived VW remote key).

Might be HT leads? or a failing crank sensor. Might be worth getting it scanned with VCDS. It can ping up things that basic scanners miss or can't read.

I apologize to my mates for delaying so much, I had forgotten about posting the photos with the 'summer' 18s, running 225/50 Against big thanks to Carlston whose details and information are always exemplary, to help me choose the right combo ... love the way these wheels look, and the balance of perfomance and comfort of the /50 profile is .... Superb! Only one drawback though - as we had discussed preventively https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/478950-what-size-wheelstyres-will-fit-to-superb-iii/page/5/ - these are too much tuck in ... I am not a fan of spacers, but are there any which are slim enough to fit with the OE bolts? Being these rims ET43, just to bring them to the edge of the wheelarches and get a "chunkier" look, maybe will also behave better on the road but can't tell ... In any case I am delighted ❤️

Sorry talking shorthand https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/penny-drops

Hear! Hear!

thankyou

Yes, it is indeed an fully electric boat, powered by LFP batteries and is one of a fleet of such boats operated by a hire company at the location for cruising the canal with on a boating holiday. This video also by StacheD Training fully explains the system used by the boat, is was 100% LFP powered 48V for the 10KW motor and the house power. there was no petrol, diesel or gas used on the boat at all, totally powered by these LFP batteries that he shows in this video. He has been in contact with the operators of these boats during the last couple of weeks following up on the incident and learning from it. As I have mentioned previously, he is not some Vlogger cashing on clickbait's or trying to sensationalise the real life threatening nature of NMC or LFP batteries (and to think that some people are hailing LFP as a game changer!). He is a serving fire fighter, fire fighting trainer and also an engineer who is specialising in designing battery packs for electric cars, from a safety point of view (who knew that you could actually learn so much from YouTube eh?) If you follow this link to his channel, (2654) StacheD Training - YouTube you will see the extent of the problems and the research that fire departments are putting in trying to find a satisfactory solution to the problem before the time when they will become the most common type motive power. The same goes for the other so called green energy, like solar panels and home battery systems, they are a recipe for disaster just waiting to happen. He has also extensively covered the Luton car park fire and has fully explained the problems associated with multistorey, open sided carparks as well underground ones and the massive problems that firefighters have in getting equipment, men and resources to the location of the fire and the delay in doing so is why they are so deadly. In open car parks like the one at Bristol airport car park, they can get right close to the seat of the fire with their appliances and deal with the fire very quickly, and only 11 cars were damaged as a result. Bristol Airport blaze rips through car park as 11 vehicles damaged | Bristol Live This also clearly explains just why the Liverpool car park fire also was so devasting and also resulted in the total destruction of the car park, both Liverpool and Luton started on the 3rd floor.

Haven't noticed an answer to this?

I thought I'd just my experiences with this job add this in case anyone else has this problem. I have my daughter's visiting with the grandchildren and the Fabia is up for the cruise control fitting, a service and an MOT. It had a 'Too Lean code' stored. It is a 2016 1.2 CJZD 4 cylinder 2821 - Bank 1; System Too Lean off Idle P2177 00 [01100000] - - Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear They live 300 miles away so I try and fix everything I can while they are here. @Crasher kindly suggested the oil separator as a good bet being a fairly well known fault for this code so I took a chance and fitted one. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04e103464am-oil-separator-skoda-35930.html I couldn't see anything wrong with it but the new separator (which is essentially a plastic box with a rubber pipe connection) did have an updated part number. I forgot to order a new rubber seal for it so I added a smear of Permatex Grey which is very similar to VW's sump/gearbox sealer around the old seal which looked to be in perfect condition. The code/EML hasn't returned (although it was intermittent so the jury is out) but it has cured the poor idling/chugging, almost stalling on first start up in the morning so I'm fairly hopeful.. 🤞 I presume it must have been PCV air leak leading to unmetered air entering the system. The job is pretty awkward and not recommended unless you are very patient! It's at the front of the engine roughly below cylinders 1 & 2. There is a close fitting cover over the separator which snaps off on release of four plastic clips. This is fiddley enough but then there are eight Torx bolts in the separator to get out. You need the correct length Torx bit and nimble fingers to reach the top ones! There are lots of reasons for a 'Too Lean' code including the O2 sensors so I know it was a bit of a punt.

Another of those amazing things. AdBlue being a product that VW has the licence for and was what required VW, Mercede Benz & BMW to conspire over tank sizes and VW to have the Illegal Defeat Device. AdBlue a product that might well be used in Light goods, HGV, & passenger vehicles globally. Yet, no special additive already added versions on sale for the UK driving public. You can fool some of the people some of the time but maybe not all the people. No Heavy Oil / Derv / Diesel already with the MILLERS already added, but you can get Diesel with different detergents / additives, maybe a different cetane, and maybe not. ........... I would run a new to me car on the regular fuel, or Super Unleaded Petrol or Special Diesel and be sure all is well before messing with 'Special bottles of stuff'. Same with AdBlue, since when the system goes wrong it is not cheap to fix.

@aslan14 MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zip 1.4 Gb

I have the 622GW front and rear and it works fine but be aware that the battery only lasts about a year before needing replacement (or just have it hardwired). The excellent Dashcam Talk website provides lots of info re: the latest choices and reviews. 👍

When I changed mine earlier this year I found that they were much easier to remove with the engine hot.

If it tries wwith easy start then it could well be a fuel problem or low compression. If the fuel pump is working then next step I would take would be change fuel filter. Could also be an electrical fault at injectors? Alasdair

Adblue comes in 10L (~2 gallons) container and it is just over £1 per litre. Not worth putting in a small quantity, just fill it. If you want to use additive, put it in just before it is full.

I’ll try and get a better photo of the mount and bolt I tightened tomorrow. I am pretty sure it has to be removed to do the timing belt which was done in 2023.

13 hours and one more sleep and I get to pick up my new baby 😁👍

A friend of mine had the same problem and went to an independent garage, where they replaced the clutch slave cylinder. The noise stopped. But it might have been enough just to lubricate it. A friend of mine who rebuilds gearboxes had also suggested this to me earlier, but I haven’t gotten around to visiting him yet.

No idea. The oil companies are always “enhancing” their products.

Marked up the mounting brackets so I could get them back in the same position. Just light surface rust / dirt. Picture makes it look worse. Wad very solid

The rear springs look like they had a bit of life left in them. Just cleaned then up, a lick if paint and new top bushes.

...

Skoda can’t do it - we can 😅

For sale. 20 sets of Mk4.5 aero covers. Price - negotiable. Contact - anyone in this thread 😄

I have a 2016 1.6tdi SE Business estate with adaptive CC on 17" rims. It was originally a Southern Water company car so probably would have been spec'd by their fleet dept. I've used it a couple of times but rarely bother anymore. Horses for courses I guess.

Thanks for the response. Just to clarify, does yoour comment apply to all power variants of the 2.0Tdi engine in Mk1, Mk2 and Mk3 cars? Could you supply a link to yoour other posting on this subject. On my current Saab, the swirl flap shafts have worn, and a lot of exhaust fumes are getting passed the shafts and being sucked into the cabin. I don't want to experience the same again.

Here's mine - high mileage lava blue 2019 L&K FL from Lithuania.

You are trying to install the wrong update. You have index B and trying to install non-index firmware

This is bad advice for 2 reasons: The heater matrix has a flow regardless of temperature setting and also if you have the heat set to max it will draw all the heat out of the coolant and the thermostat will take forever to open making the bleeding and filling procedure take forever especially on a diesel. The easiest and best way and as per the manual is the vacuum fill system which is a piece of cake as long as you have an air compressor at hand. Alternatively you just have to fill it up and be patient and keep topping it up. A TDI warms up very slowly so you can't harm much, its more a case of making sure the charge cooling loop gets filled up nicely. Having VCDS is probably usefull as you can cycle the two electric water pumps. Also, make sure you disconnect the connector on the main water pump, otherwise you won't get full circulation until the micro circuit reaches around 70 odd degrees

As my other half has just managed to average 58mpg over a 300m round trip (Lots of 50mph motorway roadworks), I definitely nominate the 2.0 TDi 150. 😇

Hi Thankyou for all the above posters and their links. Just replaced headlight brackets and i found quite straight forward, the hot air gun trick was essential to cut the thread, the insert goes in slightly cross threaded but will tighten down square. I only dropped one side of the bumper (drivers side) On the 2 hidden bolts, a 1/4' drive ratchet plus removing the inner wing and front wheel, made it relatively easy... getting it all back in again was tricky, would be easier with a helper. Start to finish job took just under 2 hours, inc head light adjustment. Used genuine Skoda brackets and self tapping screws - £26.

Hi, you can use this TPI2060553 procedure to update at 088 version, then you can update simply mode to 143 as TPI 2072245 TPI-2060553-8.pdf

Hi, the TPI I think is 2072245-5.pdf in Italian I attach the part about OCU 2. OCU ECU software update Before we start with the upgrade of the OCU ECU to SW 0143: - To upgrade to the new version SW 0143, first install SW 0088 in the OCU controller! If software 0083 is present in the OCU ECU, perform the upgrade according to task 91Y8 .

I've just completed the job, many thanks for the instruction. Before screwing the plastic insert into the troublesome front side bracket, I used a heat gun to warm up and "soften" the plastic where the insert screws into. It wound in very easy and didn't break.