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Get the car in. The £180 diagnostic is a small expense compared to failure. Nit that you should be needing to pay that? Is your Kodiak FWD only, no Haldex (AWD)

It is going to cost them. Just as well they have insurance. The technician has some learning to do then. Parts and consumables to get, and if they need Skoda's help they best get it.

In my experience the front dampers VWŠkoda use instead of being called "shocks" should be called "shockings". 😁

Lovely Sky and Moon tonight (and not a bad sunset too 👍)......................

I misread the exploded view; thanks. The point about not replacing the rust shields/stone catchers still applies though I think.

Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Hi everyone, when you own a Superb iV MJ 20 and above and have Canton as option, you may have discovered that it is not quite the best sound system around. The basic problem with this system is that the new designed sub for hybrid is not correctly fitted into the sound setting, Don't know exactly the reason where the error happened, but the sub setting is shifted in phase so it cancels out the bass between 40 and 50 Hz. (picture 3) Skoda/Canton is not aware of the problem and is not interested. Tried several times. No chance. A solution is to reverse the polarity of the subwoofer connector. The outer and the inner pair of wires have to change the places like this 1 2 3 4 | | | | 4 3 2 1 I made some adapters for plug and play usage, but you can do the switch by opening the connector and exchange the position of the wires. The other solution is to remove the "noses" on the connector and plug it turned upside down. After this modify the settings like in last 2 pictures, and enjoy the sound. Before changing the EQ choose preset "Classic" and turn surround completely off. Best bass performance is achieved when setting focus to driver and fader moved to the front and one click to the right. PS: this solition is working already in >60 cars up to newest production 02/22 estate and limousine, so yes, your car is affected and yes, it will improve the sound a lot. PPS: if interested in a plug n play connector - please PM. Unfortunately international shipping (from Germany) is quite expensive. PPPS: this is definitely not a solution for non hybrid versions

Cheapest way would be to contact a local member who has HEX-V2 or HEX-NET VCDS.

I've got 4 within about an hour. My preferred one is Johnsons near Redditch as its 10 mins away. Its listed as an approved repairer..

what year is your car?

You are looking at an Approved Repairer to look at it. They might be a Skoda Dealership But they are not Skoda. Get onto the Warranty Provider. Have you only one Skoda Dealership near you?

32 million cars averaging 7,000 miles a year charged 5p+ vat a mile to use the roads would raise a fair amount?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is it still in warranty - If so, who with? T&Cs likely will allow repair instead of replacement. They will probably attempt to flush the whole system first. If flushing is unsuccessful (likely) the only alternative will probably replacement of the matrix as a minimum. AFAIK, you are only obliged to allow one attempt to repair - is rejection a possibility if repair fails? Be aware that contamination sufficient to completely block the heater matrix has possibly affected other components in the cooling system as well - oil cooler, intercooler, etc. If they do claim that flushing the system has been successful, be very sure to check that the heating is working correctly - and that the engine isn't running hot. Request written proof of remedial work carried out.

Artisanal, hand hammered outer sill plate. return fashioned in the vise, curve formed on the argon bottle and tweaked with some sweating.. it's close and can probably be hammered in as it goes: Honestly this could be a LOT worse than it is. quite a bit of tin left on the inner sill. It's a horrible job getting the underseal off, I'm using a serious wire wheel in a drill. So the plan, as it forms, is to reinstate the inner sill first, repair the mid sill bottom plate, then weld on the outer, plug welding it to the mid sill and inner. Then there's another bit to do at the rear of the sill which will probably be a bunch more fun, and there's a split boot on the left hand drive shaft which needs ministration. Not going anything like as fast as I'd like but the post covid malaise is real (also I've got the DRO fitted to my milling machine which is a satisfying job to have completed; and gave me the confidence to get hacking at the sill) In good news, the repairs will all be below the beltline where your eye falls when you're looking at the thing so should be fairly discreet. yay.

I’ve seen a couple of new Toyota land cruisers around the last couple of weeks. Looks like a Lego interpretation of a 90s bronco…

just to close this one off. issue was the drop links for the rear anti roll bars. The top pin for drop links had worn enough that it was allowing the RARB to move in ways it was not meant to, hence the knocking noise I was hearing. hours labour and £50 in parts. finally glad the noise it gone!

What a fugly car imo.. and the black.

More free lecky tomorrow, 6th Sept, usual slot 2 pm to 3 pm so have to set up the EVs to auto charge themselves. Is there a way you can do this with diesel or petrol cars ? Another good step forward with the latest SMTT figures with diesel and petrol cars declining and full electric and hybrid electric both up significantly despite the slow emergence of which EVs are getting which of the two levels of EV grants, or not getting it but the Asian companies are slashing prices to match a similar reduction anyways. Bang. Bang go the nails in the ICE coffin. Just worried where UK government are going to plug the cap with the diminishing of the excise duty on fuel ? At least those newly bought hybrids will be paying some excise duty for many a year to come. Br interesting to see what happens to the 5p a litre excise reduction that came in with covid and whether fuel duty also goes up in line with inflation.

Range of my own "wee" tank is even less than the Mini Cooper E we have. Public charging needs sorting out as it is spending fractured and expensive. We need Ionity, Mer and of course Tesla Public V4 charging just to take over from the shower of the rest of them, undecided if Gridserve should be a survivor or a Zombie fit for the cull, sk we only have about 5 suppliers and get more of these non motorway places with coffee, loos etc at the sites, it's the model that works.

The car went into West End Skoda Dunfermline for a coolant change (very much needed) and a general check over. I've known the guys in West End for many years but it is a slimmed down operation these days. They have one sales guy, one service manager and two techs. Anyway, doing the health check came back with problems with the brakes. Yerr yerr, I thought.... up selling as usual. But no, it really was a problem. It wasn't the outer face of the discs that had failed, it was the inner face that had gone bad. Like really bad. Corrosion and delamination...the works. So I went to Euro Car Parts and purchased some Brembo discs and pads. Euro Cars Parts are not bad but we found an anomaly in their ordering system. It gave me the right pads, incorrect discs....several trips to Edinburgh later and the correct parts were obtained (The L&K having heavier duty discs...not the small smaller diameter discs). Then rooky mistake from me....there is a correct order in how the pads are mounted into the car. On the offside inner, you have a wear sensor...but there is an order and a slight difference in the pads if you aren't concentrating...cue...slight sticking brakes. I took the discs and pads apart again, concentrated and seem to have got it all buttoned back in order. Oh...did I also mention I'm about to do a 3000 mile journey next week...

I agree i'm using royal purple VW502.00 5w40 and it is really quiet.

@spacelord thank you for the time you have taken to share the cause & fix of this major issue with us! Wasn't impressed with the sound system since I bought the car (1-2 months ago), but this has solved it completely! Also thanks for the equalizer settings. I was slightly hesitant to change the connector because the car still has warranty, but I can confirm it works on my 2021 Superb iV (German car originally). I really enjoy the sound now, you've made my day!

Thank you

Yes a vinyl wrap requires a flat surface other wise it does show the defects, a paint shop near where I live used to supply a mixed paint colour in thier own rattle can in 500mm quantaties so you got a good decent spray, if you clean the nozzle after a few passes it should work ok, the problem these days is the colour cans for the car are small cans unless it's black or white so you don't get the volume to spray a decent area with out problems, why not try a electric spray gun? might work better than the small cans but again you need to get the paint mixed and thinners

A vinyl wrap would be good, but not until that bonnet is flatted right back to almost the primer and there is no moisture. A totally good surface to apply to. Basically the same as needed to repaint the bonnet.

After 7.5 years of Kodiaq ownership (a 2018 1.4TSI Edition, and a 2021 2.0TSI vRS) - preceded by 3 years of an Octavia - I'm off to pastures new. Decided that the Mk2 is fugly (in my opinion!), and judging by the forum, also full of issues. Considered the Elroq, but in the end we picked up a new Renault Scenic on Monday, and so far we're extremely impressed by it (Apple Maps on the dashboard screen as well as the big infotainment one is a big win for me!). It's baby brother (a Renault 5) will hopefully be joining it at the end of the month 😁. Anyhoos - I probably need to go find a Renault forum now, so tatty byes and take care! 👋

If you want the benefits then you settle the finance after the 14 day cooling off period. Pay the charges and a small amount of interest. If you cancel during the 14 day cooling off period then the finance and all benefits are cancelled and you have to go back to the dealer with some cash.

I've done this recently and so has a friend. Just be aware that if you cancel within the 14 days you have cancelled the finance and potentially all the benefits. Skoda now include the commission charges so paying up early after the 14 day cool off period does include some charges as well as the interest. For myself and my friend were both charged around £300 in charges and interest and both paid off 2 weeks after purchase. It was still worth it for the deposit contribution, the 2 year service pack and in the case of my friend the two year warranty.

Yes, that is it, there is a thread on the Superb section, but it is so disjointed and assumes that every one reading it is very technical and can follow the flow. It needs to pulled together in coherent fashion so those who want vide their radios can do so with VCDS etc and get it all working again. Skoda should be fixing the issue when doing services etc, but their not.

After such a long drive, it's also good to see them showing people needed refuelling before the cars. I personally don't feel tests like these are a fair representation of EV vs ICE. Especially them only looking at aging rebranded Gridserve rapid chargers at motorway services and not showing a map where as well as others, Tesla superchargers are often within 5min off motorway in some posh hotel car parks. What they need to do is also start doing MPG comparison between latest ICE vehicles and their claimed MPG figures. It's all well and good putting a big % against claimed range, showing there is a shortfall in EV's. But many people don't realise the claimed range is from standard testing, just like claimed MPG and it is more of an ideal figure more for comparison. Finally, from my experience using the frunk in Volvo EX40. I am seeing similar traditional bonnet double latch and frunk lid situation in many of those cars. It's a total faff having to go to a specific door to open the bonnet, find the latch and open another lid to access the funk. It's as though those legacy manufacturers are still using ICE bonnet parts. Such stupidity, one of the reason I'm not intested in cars from any legacy ICE manufacturers anymore.

Activate byte 47 - Bit 6 Activate byte 51 - Bit 1 No warrenty

Yes, a VCDS, the 75% to 76% isn't borne out by the 28AH each time. During the previous charging sessions which I now know were (probably) 0.8A for 12 hrs and then 0.2A for another 12 hrs, the SOC went from 65% to 74% in the first 12hrs and no change in the second 12hrs, based on this, I would think, as you suggested, that any of the other chargers would perform any differently, I will be doing another 2 hour trip in the not too distant future so will see if the Alternator will increase the SOC even though averaging just 1.6A while driving at least short journeys, the last time it was showing 83% (after a 2 hr trip), the usable battery charge was, I think, 32AH, not bad, when compared to the first readings I took when the car/battery were 2yrs 8mnts old. 14/09/2021 IDE01834 Battery voltage 13.487 V IDE01836 Battery current 2.639 A IDE01837 Temperature of battery sensor 32 °C IDE01838 Battery temperature 27 °C IDE01839 Battery charge level 85 % IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 6.6 mOhm IDE01842 Usable battery charge 38 Ah 12/07/2025 IDE01836 Battery current -4.924 A IDE01837 Temperature of battery sensor 35 °C IDE01838 Battery temperature 37 °C IDE01839 Battery charge level 83 % IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 8.0 mOhm IDE01842 Usable battery charge 33 Ah (59AH Battery, original, 6.5 years old) IDE01843 Battery voltage at rest 12.6 V IDE01948 Battery internal resistance not normed 5.6 mOhm

Don't know the specifics. Shop owner is specialised in shock rebuilding and is familiar with the Superb "problem", has already done a number of them. What he did tell me, is that the shocks are now slightly below their "capacity" what they can handle in order to avoid possible problems. Change is noticable but relatively subtle, nothing far off from before. It used to be 2 full waves after a bump, now is around one . And leaning in curves is a bit subdued. After all those are still factory instaled shocks and they have their tech limitations, and springs are the same. Car has warranty for next 3 years. So, for now, I left original parts in order to avoid problems with eventual warranty claims.

Those screws aren’t just holding the dust shield on, they appear to be securing the axle stud. Even if you removed the dust shield, you would still need to replace the screws, or your rear wheel would fall off. You don’t need 4-off M10 screws just for a dust shield. 😉

Don’t really know Plobber, I have no issues with the assist systems or anything for that matter.

Up here in Inverness theres a good few cars with matt black bonnets and roofs. Suppose its to look like carbon fibre panels?? If you want to go down the boy racer look it might be an option. From your pictures its pretty bad. If the car was younger I would be getting in touch with Skoda for an explanation. Alasdair

Mate did exactly the same on an old Bedford cf van but he used Dulux exterior nondrip gloss for metal with mini roller. Damn thing was shiny for years afterwards and looked surprisingly good. If its just the laquer it might be worth rubbing down to a matt finish and respraying with new laquer. Have the same prob on a MK1 MX5(miata) project. Paint underneath seems solid but laquer is past it. Most paint shops won't touch it as the prep work would cost probably more than the cars worth plus they seem to be making a fortune with insurance jobs. Alasdair

Thanks for the info, although I found today with only 400 miles on the clock and about to do a very long journey, the oil was so clean it was very difficult to see the level.

You could try a polish/compound called frecklar it's a cutting compound normally used in the trade for bringing paitwork back from cars/vans that have had transferes on them, it might be worth investing in a polishing buffer tool to help you out, if it does not work you could like I did with my old MK5 Corinta is flat it down untill it's a matt finiish then clean and tack cloth it and use a simular pait colour and you could hand paint it or get it sprayed, mostly the prep costs the most so doing ths your self could save you quite a bit, I re sprayed mine myself I hired a commpressor and gun bought under coat and finish colours paint and thinners and did it in a mates garage turned out ok you soon get the hang of spraying, I have also seen some one use rattle cans but that can work out expensive depending on how many panels you want to spray, years ago i hand painted a car with a paint called re-paint and did the big panels with a gloss roller and hand painted thesmaller parts from a few yards away you would not know the difference but that's your choice

That sounds very much like the high pressure fuel pump. When was the last time you cleaned the fuel filter? It sounds like it possibly struggling to exact enough fuel from the fuel filter to pressurise onto the high pressure fuel rail.

Hi , Well that throws my idea out of the window. I had a VW Passat that used a new idea then of a Dual mass flywheel that was designed to save weight and provide a better ride. I know what I am going today is obvious but you really need to found out what the problem is before throwing money at the car. In the Passat the VW dealer thought the clutch had failed but the cause of the clutch issue was the dual mast flywheel had failed. Unfortunately I feel that a dealer visit may be the only answer and speak to the master technician. Really sorry I could not be of any help.

I had a nightmare with the panoramic sunroof on my old Superb. It was blocked and disconnected hoses for both front and rear drains of the sunroof. Deterioration of the sunroof seal also let in more water and debris, exacerbating the problem. You can sometimes unblock the drains with compressed air or a bicycle brake cable and you can reconnect and zip tie the hoses to grommets if you can rip out the interior finish. No sunroof on new Superb!

Latest Updated Speedcams - July, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( July, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams ( which now include European tunnel speedcams ), Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - July, 2025.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for the use of his database which was used and converted in order to compile these files.

The 18" rims are the Polygram as fitted to the A1 Competition Line 1.4 TSI 122ps. MY2012. ( A1 in Red or the stickered up ones..) Horrible IMO. Or the other styles OEM or aftermarket. 7.5 x18 ET 39.5 5x100

By way of an update on this. Main dealer had the car. Then informed me this was repaired and I could collect after they had it for 10days.. I was advised a kink in the drain tube was the issue( not sure how something fixed to an 8 month old car suddenly develops a kink!!) anyway went to collect and they advised they would send me a report.. got in the car and it smelled damp inside. Checked the drivers footwell and the carpet was saturated and clearly hadn’t been touched since the water ingress… rejected the repair and they acknowledged they should have changed the carpets. New date advised of mid September due to back order on carpet. I would have thought as a minimum with that level of leak the car would have been stripped out and all necessary parts replaced. ?? Interestingly the car hasn’t moved since I rejected it ( still parked outside the dealer . Can also see on the app ) so I’m hoping the current levels of damp hasn’t now caused mould to grow etc!!!