Leaderboard

I got just the new software version 1989. Curious what's it is gonna bring. Already satisfied with 1985 but i love gadgets and up to date materials. One thing from the beginning with software 1969 til now mine park to pay or pay to park still not working. But i am not using that anyway to prices of parking are ridiculous. So i hope this one is even better then 1985 we will see.

The pics above are from my 2017 2.0tdi where I could access the bag fairly easily. But I went the new header tank route anyway. As i didnt want to risk bursting the bag trying to remove it.

Hey all ive finally returned to the skoda fold years ago had a fabia vrs loved it recently purchased a octavia vrs estate (for the family) wanting to do some subbtle mods like

Adjusting the sensor required specialised equipment. Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back as low/high voltages can cause odd behaviour with sensors in my experience.

Pah! That’s nothing! If I’m really careful I can get 28 mpg. Sometimes 29 if it’s mostly downhill. Occasionally I can go 300 miles on a single tank. The numbers are a bit different with the VR6! 🤪

The marked position is correct. The sensor is mounted on a support plate with fine adjustment screws for aligning the sensor. The plate is then screwed onto the grill. However, the support plate is prone to breaking, which is when this error occurs. The Octavia 3 Facelift have the Same Position

CarPlay initially connects via Bluetooth, but then uses WiFi for the actual connection. FWIW iOS26 gives CarPlay a very nice interface.

These companies keep up to date with more modern leather (or faux leather). Also, it’s better to use a specialist leather company like Gliptone, Colourlock or Leather Repair Company, than a generic detailing product company that has interior products.

Personally I do think the very dumb computers systems will figure things out but best practice is to 'code' the system if practically possible ass soon as you can but it is not urgent. Not doing so in your case might shorten the life of the battery minusculely in the time for either 'coding' or the dumb computers sorting it out, whichever is sooner. As you can tell I'm neither a computer or VW fan but I've never seen evidence either way and VW are as tight as a duck's bottom with info (10 years since their programming achievement scandal) but given various users reports and what a BMW "technician" has told me I can accept that those who said they never bothered with coding and things were fine after (years later) might not all be mistaken or lying about not bothering with 'like for like' battery swap without 'coding'. Your battery life will, given you only got 4.5 years out of your last battery, probably be shortened a lot, lot more by not doing when required very occasional preventative battery recharging. The battery itself, er, self discharges at twice the rate at 30C than 20c weather temperate and twice again at 40c so if you are somewhere hot in Italy that might be something you have not previously considered. If you are in Rome then see if the Briskoda member (see below) can code the battery for you (for €15 or less) and with the likes of a VCDS (and other scan tools) you could see if the car has sorted itself anyway. BTW - over here it is not unknown for shops, and at least one auto-electrician, to wrongly 'code' the battery (very bad programming on VW's part that at least the auto-electrician's mistake was accepted by the computer program, parameters or lack of them perhaps) and then the new battery has a very short life and car owner gets all sorts of unexpected warnings from the car, error codes and issues but of course they don't expect them to be from the new battery - or rather in reality the incorrect 'coding'. Two sides to every coin. Amateur or paid professional the work has to be done correctly and a good person will double-check his work. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 Let us know how you get on, whatever you decide and whatever you do - might take 4.5 years to tell fully though. 😄 Good luck.

If you want leather scent get these Gliptone EuropeLeather ConditionerLeather dries out with heat and sunlight and should be restored at least three times a year to re-establish the original nutrient content. GT11 LeatherGliptone EuropeIntensive CleanerGT12 Intensive Cleaner is a thick, concentrated, pH neutral leather cleaner ideal for preparing dirty leather prior to conditioning. Containing glycerine, When it comes to putting on the conditioner I do it with my bear hands rubbing it in, will literally make your car smell for ages

I'd think it will come under wear and tear, but how long did you have this car before this started to happen, if soon after buying it, I'd be expecting the seller to sort this out as it indicates a lack of servicing/checking before sale.

Hi The hand brake is a manual old school type and the rear brakes are drums rather than discs.

On the Superb MK3, non-standard 225/50R18 7Jx18 ET43 5/112 57.1 wheels could be used with 10mm spacers. This will change the effective offset of the rims from ET43 to ET33. Make sure the spacers are hubcentric, so that the wheel is centred on the hub. With 10mm spacers, the wheel bolts need to be 10mm longer. Perhaps look at Eibach spacers and wheel bolts. The standard WHT001812 wheel bolts have a specification of M14x1.5x27 Eibach M14x1.5x27 wheel bolt S1-6-14-50-27-17 (standard length) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/1931742 Eibach M14x1.5x37 wheel bolt S1-6-14-50-37-17 (10mm longer than standard length) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/15258679?search=EIBACH+Wheel+Bolt+%28S1-6-14-50-37-17%29 Eibach 10mm wheel spacers S90-2-10-027 (5/112 57.1) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/eibach/1931843?search=EIBACH+Wheel+spacer+%28S90-2-10-027%29

Evo adored the Yeti and quite a few motoring journalists have owned a Yeti or two over the years. It sits with the Subaru Forester as being unique in their offering at the time of sale. I loved my 2007 Forester Turbo and I love my pre facelift 2013 Yeti Tdi L&K 😎

The battery control module records the power going in to and out of the battery. It remembers this and will then charge the battery accordingly. If the car is not programmed when a new battery is fitted it will charge the new battery thinking it is the old battery. If the old battery was at half the capacity of the new one it will charge the new battery to this ( half ) capacity. Does the voltage change from when the engine is running compared to when the engine is NOT running. My Fabia battery is 9 Years old and the car has done 90K miles. Had the car from new. Are you anywhere near N Dorset? Thanks. AG Falco

Best practice IS to update the car. Thanks. AG Falco.

+1 for aero covers off.

I’m pretty sure that once CarPlay is active it is an exclusive WiFi link effectively disabling any other WiFi connection. I, for example, can’t sync videos from my dashcam to the app if CarPlay is active; as soon as I disable it, all is ok with the dashcam sync. Kinda frustrating…. This might be the root of the issue you have with tethering; I suspect CarPlay kicks in and kicks out the tethering. Never tried it so can’t be sure.

If water is collecting n the threshold I very much doubt that it will get over the seal and into the car, unless the seal is not fitted correctly and water is getting under it instead (albeit that would still require quite a depth of water on the threshold before it happened. From your pictures it looks like the water is coming into the car from behind the interior door trim - ie it is running out from the gap between the plastic interior door trim and the blue metalwork at the bottom of the door (you should be able to check this by feeling along that join or gently pulling the trim to see if any more water leaks out. If that is the case the only place it can be coming from is those pink areas I noted. That will either be because the original foam seal along those pink areas has perished, or because it might have been damaged during the speaker installation and is no longer sealing properly. The doors are design such that any water running down the window glass naturally drains into the inside of the door and should drain away through weep holes in the bottom of the door. If they are blocked or the car is on a slope such that the water cannot reach those weep holes it will get out somewhere else at a low point that isn't sealed (for example those pink areas). If it were me I'd check the weep holes in the bottom of the door are clear and then take the interior door trim off and seal around those pink areas with silicon or polysulphide sealant, which I think should cure your problem.

@nta16 I have cleared the error codes and the same two orange warnings return. Interestingly, there is no sign of child electronic lock fault in the DTC logs. The error codes I'm getting now are: 00791 [0x000317] C110300: Adaptive cruise control sensor, misadjusted FAULT_MISALIGNMENT_VERTICAL U112200: Databus implausible message FAULT_CIM_CHK_LWI_01FAULT_CIM_CHK2_LWI_01 Status bits: 1 Priority: 4 Frequency: 1 Unlearning index: 59 Odometer: 18947 km Date, time: 2025.09.18 13:02:31 Paramteric values: 02 8D 5C 02 85 78 10 11 00 00 10 12 00 00 10 2E 06 Status: Test failed, Confirmed 00012 [0x00000C] B110311: Digital radio antenna 1, Short circuit to ground Aerial for digital radio - short circuit to ground Status bits: 1 Priority: 6 Frequency: 1 Unlearning index: 59 Odometer: 18947 km Date, time: 2025.09.18 13:02:59 Paramteric values: 02 86 7B 18 2E 02 02 6E FF FF FF FF FF FF Status: Test failed, Confirmed I installed the new battery myself and adapted it correctly (i think). It had a good charge as i put it on trickle charging with my CTEK before installing it. Overtightening the clamps is possible (tho unlikely) as i have no idea how tight they should be. Changing the battery was simple, and i can't see how i could have damaged anything. The car has been on several short drives around town, but not a proper long drive. As mentioned, the child locks appear to work despite the warning, but the ACC doesn't work at all.

ok, but why when I look at the phone is wifi disabled and if I try to enable it I get the message mentioned above? Also, as you seem to have some knowledge 😊 I got the "internet radio" working by tethering the car to the phone - but every time I leave & re-enter the car this is broken and you have to set it up again - any way to have it always on?

Power steering unit or steering rack? There’s obviously more pressure on the power steering when turning at low speeds. Can you detect it when stationary with the bonnet up? Gaz

This looks like the same issue that has plagued a number of Skoda's... Namely that the inner door skin behind the inner door trim isn't sealed against the door frame and hence water is draining between the frame and inner skin onto the top of the door seal and then into the car. The solution used to be resealing the inner door skin to the frame.

It is possible the water can enter around the top of the door and then run down to the bottom. When it gets to the bottom it hopefully runs out of the car but that is not certain. The first thing to do is find out where it's getting in, so you have to test all around the edge of the door to find out if there are places the seal does not quite touch the door. The next thing to check is to make sure it's not the door filling up with water. There should be little weep holes in the bottom of the door. If they are blocked then the water will overflow into the car. The fact you said it happens when the car is on a side slope makes me think it's the seal rather than a blocked weep hole. There does not have to be a documented issue - you have an issue, that is enough. Also if you reported the leak before the warranty ended then they still have an obligation to repair it. You should also make contact direct with Skoda customer service.

Average MPG is currently 56mpg. Mixture of City/A Road/Motorway. Normal driving with the odd spirited blast!

If you just want a scan and health report and delete error codes then other scan tools can do that, and more. £20 isn't unreasonable if you are happy to pay it but just plugging a scan tool in isn't full diagnostics if you have an issue or issues on the car. The scan tool may or may not point to the correct item or area causing the issue or issues and it depends how diligent the user is. For just a health report before and after deleting error codes I think I'd prefer £10 but 20 minutes of scan tool diagnosis or messing around with the car's settings is fine for £20 - if that's where it ends. As put it seems like a "loss leader" to get you through the doors as an advertising tool - or for more profitable work. Why not see if there's a Briskoda member near you that can do a scan and health report and delete error codes for beer tokens? - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

I still would get an Octavia. I was meaning even now, I'd still go Mk3.5 over Mk4 (or 4.5). I am quite young (as in, take the median age of this forum, halve it, and you probably can still take five from that), but I absolutely love my car. There are faster, bigger, cooler, more practical, better driving and better quality cars out there, but for the money I don't think you can beat the Octavia vRS. I was considering a GTI (230 and PP), Cupra (ST and hatch), S3, R, JCW and others. Okay, so one of the main reasons for choosing an Octavia was the lower insurance, but I'm still extremely happy with my choice. I drive up to Scotland a few times a year, and recently did it in one fourteen hour hop. The car was amazing. It drove itself most of the way there, being comfortable and having enough space for all our stuff. Once up there, it was put into sport mode and came alive. Okay, it was mapped then (330bhp ish) but it just drives so well. Okay, sure, the road noise isn't the best due to the crappy insulation, and a GTI/JCW/Cupra/etc will all be so much more engaging to drive - but that's missing the point. The Octavia is the most well-rounded of the bunch. I was recently in an I30N - in a foreign non-extradition country. Several times we were well into triple digits, and all I could think was 'this feels so planted, but I'd hate to go anywhere in it'. I think it's one of the first fast FWD hatches I've been in (besides Occy) and the comparison was interesting. Afterwards, while a tiny part of me was longing for the bucket seats and ASBO (factory) exhaust, I just couldn't shake the feeling that I'd made the right choice with the vRS. It might not have been quite as fast, or as engaging, but it would have been a lot more comfortable and done it all with everything but the kitchen sink in the boot. I think that sums up the Octavia vRS quite well. If I were to do it now, with insurance being a lesser factor, I would probably push to get a Cupra ST. I love my Octavia and with the LSD it does such a good job of putting the power down, but you just can't beat AWD. In the winter I do notice it, but how often are you trail braking into and booting it around a dual carriageway roundabout? That being said, again, I am saying this from someone probably a lot younger than you, with a very different set of requirements. During my search, I test drove both a GTI PP and an R. Strangely (well, quite commonly after looking online) I much preferred the GTI. It wasn't that I didn't like the R - I did, it was very quick and got off the line instantly - it's just, the FWD with the diff felt more engaging. Less secure, sure, but more fun. I could see the AWD getting a bit boring, unless you were regualrly doing silly speeds. Similarly, I liked the Mk3.5 better than the Mk4 I drove. It felt a bit more analog - in the Mk4, I felt like the front wheels weren't connected to the wheel. I vastly prefer the feel of Skoda over SEAT/Cupra (I've had both), and think a vRS hatch is just something a little different. It almost feels like an IYKYK car, much like an M340i or Polestar V60. I also like that, around town, the car feels like a minicab. It is quiet, smooth and draws no attention. It's only when I put my foot down do I remember why I bought the car! I hope I've given you something to work with, from a purely performance/driving standpoint. In terms of 'normal' stuff, um... I get around 38mpg long term, the seats are quite comfortable, there's plenty of space to store things and the controls are easy to use. I'm sure others will be along to offer more. What don't I like? Well, aside from my strange spec with no power mirrors or heated seats, there isn't that much. The sound deadening/sound system is pretty rubbish, but that's an issue across SEAT/Cupra. Likewise, the infotainment can be a bit crap, but that's an issue across VAG, along with the hateful Soundaktor. The ACC is rather good, but if a car turns off in front of you, Occy will 'see' it for a bit longer, causing you to brake when there is nobody in front of you. Aside from that, and looking at specific Octavia issues - I don't like that the interior lights are different colours, I hate how cheap the door cards are, I wish it had an EPB and full LED rear lights. Performance wise, I also wish it had the same exhaust as the GTI - the Octavia version is totally silent, along with some slightly stiffer rear springs, a beefier RARB and the same aux/DSG cooler setup as on the more powerful MQB cars. All in all, I am very happy with Occy. I wouldn't change it, and it's the first car I've really liked as more than a lump of metal. Other cars do certain things better, but the Octavia just does everything really well.

The below Bilstein B4 shock absorbers for the Superb MK2 are for standard ride height, ie. not lowered ride height or increased ride height. Front shock absorbers (standard ride height) (2014 Superb MK2 estate 4x4) 3C0413031AQ G02 3AA413031M G07 3C0413031AT G07 3C0413031AS G15 3C0413031AB G52 Rear shock absorbers (standard ride height) (2014 Superb MK2 estate 4x4) 3C0513049AR 1JA+1X1 Bilstein B4 22-151056 front shock absorbers (standard ride height) (sold to replace 3C0413031AQ, 3AA413031M, 3C0413031AT, 3C0413031AS, 3C0413031AB) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/632208 Bilstein B4 19-151069 rear shock absorbers (standard ride height) (sold to replace 3C0513049AR) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/631759 The white label in the boot only has about 40 of the car's build codes, whereas the car might have around 180 build codes. There's a seller on ebay that can supply all of the car's build codes for 3 Euros (about £2.61). Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find a seller that can supply the car's build codes https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226517872578 VW Code Decoder 1JA=standard ride height 1X1=4x4 https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

Kinda liked the wheel so stuck one in my mk2 fabia as well 😂

The in tank fuel pump should operate when the drivers door is opened/unlocked after being locked for a while plus also when car is running. I assume its to prime the system. There are I believe 2 fuses for the pump. One for the priming and second for ECU. If the pump is running check the voltage to pump in case its low. Think there will be a relay as well. I had a quick look and on my sons 1.2 mk1 the fuses are number 14 and 52. Sorry no idea where or which relay. One fuse does ECU and the other I think does fuel pump. Why they make modern cars so complicated I don't know. Years ago things were simple without ECU etc. They either ran or didnt. Just fixed my ancient tractor with a 3 cylinder perkins. Fuel starvation problem due to diesel bug in system. Cleaned and new filters etc. Hand primed via lift pump. Released air from injector pump and number 1 injector and started no probs. Took about 20 mins. Alasdair

Indeed spreadsheet work is required. Mainly percentage of driving do you think you can do in EV mode? How much per-mile saving is there from driving on electric? Can you ever save back the initial outlay for this new car? Is there insurance cost difference? Unless you really want/need a new car, if your current Octavia meets all your needs and you'll still mostly be using fossil fuel, then there isn't much point changing to something heavier, less efficient car for sake of saving a few pence (or cents) when driving locally. Similarly, is there possibility of buying a cheap second hand BEV for local use? Keeping the Octy for longer trips with its spare tyre and huge boot. Between 2017 and 2022, I had this setup and was very happy with using the right car for the job.

Liked the wheel in the superb so fitted a kamiq Monte Carlo one in the fabia

There is not "one file", updates are version dependent, best plan is to ask @pab567 so I've tagged him for you.

Not managed to get out with the camera as we’ve been working on the last room to renovate. Finished yesterday.

Just an update on my recent post regarding the sticking clutch pedal. The Skoda dealership found the clutch master cylinder to be leaking slightly and replaced it. I had also requested they service the air conditioning and on collecting the car was presented with a bill of £797.36. I drove out of the garage and 50 yards up the road, the clutch pedal stuck down again. I drove round the block, the pedal sticking twice and back into the garage where I left it with them to sort out. I picked the car up a few days later after the clutch slave cylinder had been replaced. Presented with a bill for £1299.00 a total of £2096.37 Not at all happy at the cost, but at least glad to have the car back after nearly 4 weeks without it.

Another week another show @driverscollection show Sheffield

The best advice I can give you on engine swaps, is that if you have to ask for advice, don't do it. But if you really MUST do it, expect the project cost to spiral, expect to have to put-up with some unfortunate trade-offs (which could be benign or downright infuriating), brace yourself for some insurance issues, and expect to have the car for life because it'll be tricky to sell. Edit: I forgot, expect it to take about 5 to 10 times longer than you expected it to take.

This will probably be the final post in this thread. After 55 minutes this message appeared telling me the process was done: Everything seems to have worked fine, the map version has changed from 8536 to 8557. I don’t know how much of an improvement in detail that will give me. This has been a good few days work on the Skoda, I’ve changed the glow plugs, found and (I hope) fixed an issue with the headlamp aim and changed the rear brake pads. That should be all that is required for a while. I really like my Superb diesel estate, it is such a practical motorcar, and so much less maintenance than my two old Volvos. 😎 Addendum: I have also received the Skoda’s road tax reminder in the mail this morning- just £35 for the year. It is (almost) a pleasure to pay it.

I have more if anyone needs Octavia MK3_Maintenance_Part1.pdf Octavia MK3_Maintenance_Part2.pdf